Pierre Guillaume : "We are not for sale!" - new line, Collection Croisiere launched at Esxence


27th March, 2015

Pierre Guillaume is keen to point out that Collection Croisiere is not a new brand, but a new story. The collection of eight fragrances are, he says “surrounded by parentheses”, there is no intention to add new fragrances to the line as it is a “complete” story.

Guillaume says he is proud of everything he makes. He has no interest in being the biggest or best niche line, or the “new Guerlain”. He describes his independent company as a small boat – one that can turn a corner quickly, unlike a large vessel. 

Rather than put his money into stores, he would rather put the money into his workshop, where all of his fragrances are created in-house, from sourcing materials to creating the final juice. “The company is like a family”, he employs his relatives and best friends. It is important to him that they are happy and proud of what they produce. 

The company is a 100% French business, and where possible Guillaume gives priority to sourcing French suppliers when sourcing packaging, pumps, boxes etc. He comments that Diptyque, Fréderic Malle, L'Artisan and Le Labo are "no longer French", and says that "We are not for sale!"

Collection Croisiere

Guillaume describes the new collection as completely wearable – “no one really wants to spend 200 euros to smell like burnt tyres” he says with a smile on his face, and adds, “the misunderstood artist, dies a poor artist!”

Launching in April 2015 the “cruise collection” features a brand new bottle which is available in 50ml and 100ml sizes. The collection is inspired by travel, with each perfume representing a destination.

Guillaume said he was interested in creating an aquatic collection – a family often decried by critics – and show that you can do aquatic fragrances without resorting to focusing purely on calone and salty accords.

Four fragrances will be available on launch, with the remaining four to follow subsequently.

The initial launch fragrances are:

Entre Ciel et Mer

Entre Ciel et Mer – meaning 'Between Sea and Sky' is described as a "marine poem composed of wave after wave". The scent is based around a pacific algae absolute and contains notes of lavender, pear, white thyme, white lichen, ambergris, cedar moss, sandalwood.

Paris-Seychelles

Paris Seychelles tells the story of a Parisian woman, who has been holidaying in the Seychelles, and returns to the Rive Gauche, still wearing the smell of the beach and sand. The fragrance is based around a white lily and also contains notes of plumeria, warm sand accord, monoi oil, coconut milk, galbanum, black pepper, ginger and petitgrain.

Jangala

Jangala is the Sanskrit word for Jungle, and this fragrance is inspired by a tropical forest after a rain fall. The fragrance features top notes of eucalyptus, cardamom, rosewood and ginger blossoms; a heart of ginger blossoms; and the dry down features sandalwood, coconut and vetiver.

Long-Courrier

Long-Courrier (Long-Distance flight) contains notes of orange in the top; heart notes include salty vanilla accord and cocoa powder; and the dry down features vanilla, musk, cedar wood and elemi. The inspiration for this fragrance was lazy days on beaches, with the sea spray and sun tan lotion.

 

The following fragrance will be launched subsequently

Mojito Chypre.

A fragrance for a beach party. Guillaume updates the chypre with a strawberry mojito accord. He jokes that the strawberries are especially grown for him, and have to be picked at a certain time of day (strawberries have no essential oil...). Notes for the fragrance include lime, mint, strawberry aldehyde and rum in the head; heart notes include patchouli, vetiver and labdanum; and the dry down features vanilla and oakmoss.

Metal Hurlant

Metal Hurlant is based on a motorcycle trip across the USA, with leather and Ray-Bans. The scent contains top notes of fresh paint accord and rubber tyre accord; leather, chrome accord and gasoline accord feature in the heart; and musks feature in the base notes.

Foudre

Foudre contains notes of champaca blossom, vetiver, pepper, aldemone, black tea absolute and cashmeran. The idea with this fragrance is to capture the smell that champaca flowers give off before a storm. Guillaume tells me that the locals in Réunion Island, where Champaca is grown, can tell when a storm is coming by the change in scent that is given off. The Aldemone note captures the smell of wide open spaces after a rainfall.

Rivages Noirs

This fragrance is inspired by the idea of drinking whisky on the deck of a boat at night, anchored somewhere off the Mediterranean coast. The fragrance features top notes of melon, ginger, cinnamon, saffron and cardamom; heart notes include whisky, ozone and mediterranean cypress; and the base contains woody notes, amber notes, cedar leaves, vanilla and oakmoss.

 

Guillame is interested to hear what reviewers on the internet think of his products, though can sometimes be disappointed. He recalls when an unlaunched fragrances was poorly reviewed based on the name alone – “no juice had yet left the lab”. “Shit on my face if you like, but at least wait until you have smelt the juice” he laughs.

You can see all of our Esxence 2015 coverage here

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About the author: Grant Osborne

Grant Osborne is the founder and editor of Basenotes. Grant has two children, and a dependence on tea, haribo and bacon.

Website: http://www.grantosborne.com

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Comments

    • hednic | 27th March 2015 20:49

      These are so on the top of my next to buy list. Interesting read.

    • furrypine | 28th March 2015 07:06

      So these are not part of Parfumerie Generale?

    • Colin Maillard | 28th March 2015 14:57

      Nope, the brand is "Pierre Guillaume". I tried them all today - a surprsingly solid line.

    • hednic | 28th March 2015 16:11

      Good to know as I purchased all four last night! :thumbsup:

    • Zilpha | 28th March 2015 18:06

      I like this guy's attitude, but I am puzzled by one thing. In the interview it says "Guillaume describes the new collection as completely wearable – “no one really wants to spend 200 euros to smell like burnt tyres”, but then his future fragrance Metal Hurlant features a "rubber tyre accord". Is that supposed to mean that rubber tyre is wearable as long as it isnt't burnt?

    • iodine | 28th March 2015 18:16

      Well, yes- there are several fragrances that feature a rubber accord and are very plesant: Gomma by Etro (gomma meaning rubber in Italian) or Bulgari Black, for example :smiley:

    • hedonist222 | 28th March 2015 21:00

      [quote]

      “no one really wants to spend 200 euros to smell like burnt tyres” he says with a smile on his face, and adds, “the misunderstood artist, dies a poor artist!”

      [/quote]

      This is what happens when people act in areas that are not of their expertise.

      They come out looking silly.

      Yes , people do pay hundreds to smell of burnt tires.

      Pierre, you're good at perfumes. Please focus on that.

      Leave PR for the PR people.

    • gandhajala | 5th April 2015 22:25

      Just collected samples of the collection today and am keen to try them out properly.

    • gandhajala | 5th April 2015 22:51

      Yup. At the new Bloom store in Covent Garden.

    • Ken_Russell | 6th April 2015 00:30

      Thanks for posting. Takes alternative/indie/artisan perfumery (deliberately avoiding the term niche as of now, in lack of more information/data to categorize as niche) to a wholly new and definitely interesting, motivating and quite fascinating level.

      Particularly liking the individual fragrances proposed, from the title, right down to the notes listed.

    • Diamondflame | 6th April 2015 17:27

      Sounds like someone's been left behind at the altar...