Our Best Fragrance Discoveries of 2015


30th December, 2015

We ask our contributors to look back on 2015 and reveal what their best fragrances of the year were. As previously -- if they didn't have a best new fragrance, they had the option to pick a fragrance that was new to them.

 

 

Alfarom


"The infamous floral-infused vinyl shower curtain straight outta The Shining"

If I had ever been close to classify perfume as an art, 2015 made me completely change my mind. There’s very little (if no) art left in this field where everything is more and more clearly oriented towards frenetic and shallow consumerism. Many brands seem to have lost the plot and decided to embrace their nouveau-riche alter egos. Hideous blingy bottles, trite juices, offensive (and completely undeserved prices). Yes, this year has been particularly uninspiring fragrance-wise but, amongst the plethora of garbage, a few pearls shined…and shined so bright…

  • Papillon Salome. A daring old-school floral leather that finally doesn’t smell like nostalgia.
  • Bruno Fazzolari Room 237. The infamous floral-infused vinyl shower curtain straight outta The Shining.
  • UNUM LAVS. Liturgical incense by people who know liturgical incense.
  • Angela Campagna Aer and Rosarium. Two pearls from rural Italy.


    …and obviously, the whole Pekji line. Holy Shit, Odoon and Ruh above all. An outsider from Turkey. A genuine soul full of integrity and an extremely promising newcomer.

Despite the cranky vein of my blurb, I strongly believe there’s still hope for perfumery. You just have to dig deeper and harder. That’s all, folks.

Alfarom, is a regular contributor to the Basenotes Forum and has his own fragrance blog, Nero Profumo.

 

Callum Langston-Bolt


"one of the best and most dramatic launches of the year"

I’ve been rather distracted this year, so a lot of great fragrance launches have probably passed me by entirely, but one that launched back in the first half of 2015 was Frederic Malle’s Cologne Indelible. I wasn’t exactly excited about its arrival (I’m not a fan of colognes and Freddy already has a bloody good one with Ellena’s Bigarade Concentree, so why bother?) But when it arrived I was smitten. It’s neroli. I can’t get enough of a good neroli, and this one is Very Good. It goes on and on - managing to be at once completely relaxed but always interesting. I’m already on my second bottle.

It was all sunshine and cologne until along came Papillon Artisan Perfume with one of the best and most dramatic launches of the year: Salome. I wore this scent during a trip to the theatre to see a very bloody and intense production of Oresteia in the height of this summer’s heatwave, and no other scent could have been more perfect. I can’t really sum it up better than that, really.

Callum Langston-Bolt is an ex-Literature student hailing from the West Country, now settled in London. His interests include fragrance, film, wine and dogs. He has previously worked at Les Senteurs.

 

Carla Seipp


"the ultimate fragrance to snuggle yourself into during the bleak winter months"

After The Flood by Apoteker Tepe

Ever since discovering this gem by Bronx-based perfumer Holladay Saltz at Twisted Lily in Boerum Hill, it’s been the only scent on my mind. There is something cathartic about the rain, and something comforting about the smell of dirt. Put the two together and you have the ultimate fragrance to snuggle yourself into during the bleak winter months. However, not one to rest on its olfactory laurels, After The Flood adds another dimension of complexity to its narrative through a meaty mushroom note. Now you are not just left with the smell of a post-storm landscape, but you are standing in the middle of the forest, watching the last droplets of rain fall from the tops of the trees and having each step cushioned by the thousands of wet leaves underneath your beat-up old wellies. Truth be told, there’s no place I’d rather be.

Based in New York, Carla is a Freelance fashion, art and fragrance journalist. Contributor for Twin, A Shaded View on Fashion, Dazed Digital and more.

 

Claire Vukcevic


"it’s damn good stuff"

I spent most of this year exploring different houses or notes – sometimes to the point of obsession – so if anything new passed my desk, it was purely thanks to the kindness of friends who thought I might like something. That said, I do seem to have sniffed quite a lot of the new releases for 2015 – Habit Rouge Dress Code, Seyrig, Misia, Feve Delicieuse, the entire Pekji line, and many more. 

Lots of things impressed me, because I am pretty easy. Aah, but ask me where I spent my own money – now that is a different thing! I bought Salome (Papillon) completely blind and at full retail – gulp – two things I rarely do. But I knew from early reports that it would be right down my alley – and it totally is. A grand, retro-style floral reeking to high heavens of indoles, musks, and all sorts of naughty things, and it happens to be as comfortable to wear as a beloved, old, slightly tattered coat. Not massively original, since it draws on famous precedents such as vintage Femme and Bal a Versailles, but when a 2015 scent smells like it could easily replace some or all of those stalwarts in your fragrance collection, then you know it’s a thing done right. 

The other two 2015 releases I bought were Ostara (Penhaglion’s) and Opus 1144 (UNUM), both of which I was able to test extensively before committing. Ostara, which I bought for less than half of the retail price, is the most beautiful (and true) narcissus scent I’ve ever smelled, and although the drydown is a bit of a snooze, the opening notes do more to capture the bitter green smell of crushed daffodil stems and the golden scent of pollen-dusted stamens that any other spring floral. Chamade and Le Temps d’Une Fete, step back – you’ve got stiff competition. 

Opus 1144 is a massive heliotrope-driven oriental with a strange, almost candy sour bergamot up top and a dirty, creamy musk bringing up the end – comparisons to vintage Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue are not unwarranted. I find it a bit hard to wear sometimes, because I feel like I should be wearing a ball gown to do it justice. But it’s damn good stuff!

Worst of the year? I don’t think anyone asked me, but Imma gonna say it anyway – Sauvage (Dior). My husband was supposed to bring me back a huge box of decants I’d been forced to leave behind in a recent move (from one country to another), but he arrived home with a massive bottle of this for himself instead. “What”, he said, puzzled at the incredulous look on my face, “But it had a poster of Johnny Depp next to it – I’m sure that means it’s good, right?” It’s been two months and every morning since, a cloud of harsh chemical stink emanates from his bathroom, infecting the corridors and kitchen with its noxious presence, reminding me that my precious decant of vintage Diorling was sacrificed to make way for THIS. And the fucker wasn’t even flying Ryanair. 

Claire will be joining the Basenotes editorial team in 2016!

Claire Vukcevic is an Irish freelance writer, contributor at Basenotes, Fragrancedaily.com, and author of the blog Takeonethingoff.com

 

Deadidol


"the clear winner for me"

Whereas 2014 cemented the perfume industry’s recent model of “fling as much mediocrity against the wall as possible in the hope that something — anything — will stick,” 2015 managed (somehow) to be worse. Shadowy corporations continued to absorb what was known as “niche,” and once-heralded brands persisted in discontinuing their greats in favour of cranking out cheap, soulless flankers. Out of the 1000 or so straight-to-dvd-esque releases from brands that should know better, it was up to the indies (once again) to move things forward.

Papillon’s Salome was the clear winner for me. An exceptional musky floral that’s classical, evocative, challenging, and intelligent. From Bruno Fazzolari, both Room 237 and Seyrig held my attention: the former, a disturbingly clean musk; and the latter, a bawdy aldehydic throwback. Slumberhouse’s Kiste, albeit somewhat pedestrian for the line, schooled the industry on how to make a scent that’s both passionate and accessible, and the same line’s reboot of Grev and Rume gave folks who missed out the first time around another chance. While there were other notable moments in the year, those six were the true standouts for me.

Deadidol is a writer and academic working in the arts. He’s a contributor, editorially as well as in the forums, and is also one of the site’s moderators

 

Eddie Bulliqi


"It is hard to make creative flankers, but this is creative"

A*Men Ultra Zest: This is my favourite perfume of the year because it demonstrates thoughtful novel note combinations, alongside outstanding technical performance (longevity, projection, and sillage), in the context of a difficult olfactory challenge.

The brief was to make a fresh and citrus version of the original 1996 coffee-toffee A*Men. There are many pitfalls the scent could have fallen into. The profile could have ended up too simple and boring with an exaggerated fleeting bergamot top and less woods in the base, with no impact. If a Cologne inspiration was taken, the original character could have been lost all together under a thick white veil of néroli. Or, if the classic’s Fougère notes were exaggerated with greater lavender, mint, and a predictable calone addition, it would just smell like every other men’s ‘fresh and sexy’ mistake on the market.

It is hard to make creative flankers, but this is creative. The result is an effervescent and creamy combination of juicy blood orange and tangerine, tempered by a cool whisper of leafy mint, and punctuated by an inspired use of tangy ginger that perfectly bridges the gap between the fresh top, sweet middle spices, and oriental base. I imagine the effect must be like sipping a rich espresso on a sparkling summer morning high up in the Sorrento hillside.

The scent is signed by the original A*Men creator Jacques Huclier and Quentin Bisch – the young Givaudan Perfumer who everyone seems to be talking about as the next big thing. The excitement is understandable given the excellent execution of A*Men Ultra Zest which serves to underline Bisch’s emerging style of building on classic accords with innovative modern effects, as in his daring La Fin Du Monde and the abstract Fleur Narcotique.

Eddie Bulliqi read History of Art at the Courtauld Institute and has been working in the fine fragrance industry for the past three years. A Londoner at heart, but with American and Kosovan descent, his primary interests lie in interdisciplinary research and how olfactory associations form. He loves cats, playing the jazz sax, and being by the water.

 

Furrypine


"Likeable, warm and comforting"

Kiste by Slumberhouse: Sweet spiced peach and tobacco in a potent and intoxicating mix.  It’s like a rustic Serge Lutens fragrance. Likeable, warm and comforting.  

Furrypine is one of the Forum Moderators and is a contributor to the fragrance directory. He is based in Norway.

 

Grant Osborne


"I don’t care what anyone thinks"

Nothing for me has really stood out this year, so I’m going to go for the 2015 fragrance that I’ve enjoyed wearing the most, which is also the one I’ve received the most compliments on.

Boss The Scent

Yes, really.

It’s not groundbreaking or original, but it does mainstream very well. It’s comforting to wear, and won’t upset anyone.

I would like to also nod my head to Papillon’s Salome and Penhaligon’s As Sawira, which had a wider release this year. But yeah, Boss The Scent for me, and I don’t care what anyone thinks. :)

Grant Osborne is the founder and editor of Basenotes. Grant has two children, and a dependence on tea, haribo and bacon.

 

Haniya Rae


"If rock stars had a specific scent to them, Room 1015’s Blomma Cult would be it."

If rock stars had a specific scent to them, Room 1015’s Blomma Cult would be it. The fragrance’s mixture of a powdery violet, patchouli, and an earthy musk create an air of melancholy grunginess, possibly akin to taking a deep breath in Discovery Park, Seattle, circa the mid–80s. Mixed with the fuzzy dissonance of the aforementioned notes, the bitter aroma of cinnamon spice adds a certain punk kick, only to be contradicted by a sweet vanilla that stays on your skin long after the initial shock has passed. Much like the archetypical rock music performer, its outwardly aggressive stance means to hide an internal softness.

Haniya often writes about art and architecture for Architectural Digest, and has been a perfume fanatic since she was a child.

 

Judith Brockless


"a strange perfume"

Once again, being so out of the loop - or should I say ‘loup’ - I’ve chosen a relatively old fragrance for my choice for 2015, so old in fact that it appeared late last century: ‘Bertrand Duchaufour’s abstract portrait of the hazelnut tree’ - Méchant Loup (Big Bad Wolf) by L’Artisan Parfumeur.

Intrigued by the name, I first tried it a couple of years ago at Le Printemps on Boulevard Haussmann in Paris (as you do) - and found that, just as for one of the reviewers on Basenotes, it produced instant melancholia. Eurgh. Disturbing. It improved on me slightly as the gourmand notes kicked in, but - maybe it was the name, maybe it was the general weirdness of the scent - it was a fragrance which aroused curiosity in me, but not love - or even like.

Fast forward a couple of years and, finding a 50ml bottle going cheap at TK Maxx, I stupidly bought it on a whim - and immediately regretted it. It remains, like Francis Kurkdjian’s Oud, one of a very small number of perfumes which on first sniff actually made me want to cry.

Méchant Loup is a strange perfume. The notes are listed as licorice, hazelnut, cedar and honey. I have a weakness for licorice in scents, and I do enjoy a good gourmand. Whilst I don’t get the fur note mentioned by many, let alone Turin’s ‘wet dog’, there is definitely an animalic hum just under the surface. All of this is veiled by a delicate, minty breeze.

The different responses it seems to trigger in others only add to the intrigue. It’s variously described by Basenotes members as: comforting, warm, sweet, smoky, dark, mysterious, odd and melancholy. For some it’s such an innocuous scent that it’s more of a bunny or a squirrel than a Big Bad Wolf - but one reviewer describes it as ‘frightening’, and I totally get that too. One thing which keeps me coming back to it is that I’m still unsure how much of the fascination is down to the scent itself or due to its evocative name. Maybe it’s both.

P.S. The runner up is Madonna’s Truth or Dare from 2012 - smells fantastic, cheap as chips, lush moisturiser too. Get in.

As well as working tirelessly behind the scenes at Basenotes, Judith Brockless is a Jasmine Award shortlisted writer.

 

Kiliwia


"breathtakingly beautiful"

Well it’s December again and time to figure out our favourite scents of 2015. It’s been a good year; there have been several remarkable fragrance releases. Though trying to pick just one is nearly impossible, so I need to mention a few.

One of my favourites is Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial. It’s a beautiful warm and cozy amber, tonka bean and vanilla scent. It’s perfect for this time of year and so easy to wear.

Another favourite is Penhaligon’s Ostara; it’s breathtakingly beautiful. It reminds you of walking through a spring garden when the narcissus and hyacinth are in bloom.

There are two others that I felt were exceptional; Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra and Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom. Both are light fragrances but still are a delight to wear. Teazzurra is a floral citrus with green tea and vanilla. Mimosa & Cardamom is exactly what it sounds like, plus some rose, heliotrope, tonka bean, honey and sandalwood.

Well those are my top picks for 2015. I hope you found some this year that you love.

Kiliwia is one of the forum moderators and is based in the USA.

 

Liam Moore


"I’m a huge fan of chameleon-like perfumes"

Cologne Indélébile by Dominique Ropion for Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle… It sounds a bit full on, but this cologne released in spring/summer is an aptly timed, aptly created cologne that reworks the idea of what a cologne can be – that name bears paying attention to.

It’s easy to think, “cologne” and therefore “light”, “fresh” and “clean” and you’d be right to a degree, but Cologne Indélébile sits just that bit on the darker side of the cologne spectrum. It’s more, “weighted”, “warm” and “sensual”. All the honey and orange blossom notes simply radiate, inviting closer inspection and surprising whiffs if the breeze is right. It’s by no means the centre of the party; it doesn’t announce itself hours ahead of its wearer either, but it does have the right amount of oomph and reserve to be a sleeper-hit of a standout.

What I didn’t expect to like so much about Cologne Indélébile is the dry down; it’s the muskiest dry down in a cologne and it really shifts into this as the day goes on. I’m a huge fan of chameleon-like perfumes: ones that shift and smell remarkably different on each wearer. Cologne Indélébile does this trick on its own as the dry down bears little resemblance to the opening notes. 2-for–1, yes. Just another cologne, no.

Liam Moore is the editor of the Award Winning ODOU Magazine. Liam can also be heard on the Basenotes Podcast

 

Lizzie Ostrom


"There’s something of the botanic gardens hothouse about it"

My fave launch this year was the luscious Madagascan Jasmine created by Michel Roudnitska for Grandiflora. Jasmine jam; yum. There’s something of the botanic gardens hothouse about it, the kind of thing you’d hope to smell when you walk in and get that hit of thick, fudgy air. Or like a movie set take on Tarzan’s jungle. It made me think of a time I went aged about eight to the (sadly now defunct) London Butterfly House at Syon Park in Hounslow, London, and there were these little plates of over-ripe banana everywhere, and these gorgeous butterflies landing here and there for a feed. You could have a piece of banana on your palm to tempt them to land. That probably doesn’t make the perfume sound that appealing. But it really, really is!

Lizzie Ostrom (aka Odette Toilette) organises perfume events, as well as co-hosting the Life in Scents podcast. You can also hear Lizzie on the Basenotes Podcast. Her Book, Perfume – A Century of Scent is available now.

Twitter: @OdetteToilette

 

Marian Bendeth


"I can’t stop smelling my wrist - the best sign of all."

Soir d’Orient by Sisley:

I’ve always loved the passion of Flamenco dancing and this fragrance breathes the Andalusian fires with an amazing blend. Dark and moody, saffron, galbanum and Turkish rose are alluring enough after a few minutes but when the the Somalian incense meets black pepper from Malaga and Indonesian patchouli, it becomes a dark veil of Moorish beauty. I can’t stop smelling my wrist - the best sign of all.

Marian Bendeth is a Global Fragrance Expert based out of Toronto, Canada. Marian has won six fragrance industry editorial awards for her writing. You can find out more on her website marianbendeth.com

 

Marloes Hagenaars


"[a] creative and intelligent scent"

It has been a very exciting year for the perfume industry. I tried out many new fragrances (from celebrity, to fashion houses and niche perfumes) but discovered that I my absolute favourite comes yet again from perfumer Andy Tauer. Sotto La Luna Tuberose is my number one fragrance for this year. I have actually been a fan of Tauer perfumes ever since I first smelled L’Air du Desert Marocain, a warm, smoky and woody scent that brings back memories to my childhood but also to my lovely trip in Morocco. Tuberose is another creative and intelligent scent that is different from your typical tuberose fragrances.

Yes it’s still a signature Andy Tauer with the warm and spicy notes like amber, cinnamon and patchouli, but it’s also very fresh and easy to wear during day time. Unlike other tuberose fragrances Tauer deconstructed the flower and put it back together again while using notes as Jasmin, Cloves and Geranium. It reminds me of a cold morning in spring when you walk outside and see a little bit of white fog just above the grass. In the distance you see the rising, orange sun that slowly warms your skin, the plants, the grass and those beautiful white flowers in the field.
 



Marloes Hagenaars comes from the very small town, Langeraar in the Netherlands. Her interest in fashion started growing when she studied her Bachelor Journalism in Utrecht and therefore she decided to start her own website: Findoutfashion.com. Currently Marloes studies in London, doing an MA in Fashion Journalism at the London College of Fashion.

 

Nick Gilbert


"Duchaufour’s talent for faded old world glamour in a modern interpretation demonstrated at its best"

As far as I’m concerned, 2015 was a pretty good year in all for fragrance, in both the “niche” and mainstream arenas. Bulgari relaunched their marvellous “Eau Parfumée” fragrances, with the addition of Eau Parfumée au Thé Bleu, which I’ve been enjoying greatly - a gently spiced oolong. L’Artisan Parfumeur gave us some new work from the immensely talented Stéphanie Bakouche in the form of Rose Privée - sun drenched rose de mai atop a plush accord of patchouli and hay.

My favourite discovery, which I almost missed entirely, was Bertrand Duchaufour’s I Miss Violet for The Different Company. A hugely powerful doughy violet, sticky with a fizzy, fruity mimosa-osmanthus sweetness and a dusting of iris, leather and woods. Duchaufour’s talent for faded old world glamour in a modern interpretation demonstrated at its best.

Nick is a passionate fume nerd with over 12 years experience working in the world of fragrance. He is frequently quoted in the press, as well as founder of the @fragrantreviews twitter fragrance reviews project. His website can be found here

 

Persolaise


"You wouldn’t think that smelling of wasabi would be an attractive prospect"

2015 probably won’t go down as a vintage year, but it did bring us a few scented highlights. Of these, Olfactive Studio’s Panorama (composed by Clement Gavarry) was perhaps the most surprising. You wouldn’t think that smelling of wasabi would be an attractive prospect, but this bold piece of work manages to turn the Japanese condiment into a bona fide fragrance note, with the help of sharp green notes and a helping of balmy myrrh. Equally striking was Gorilla Perfumes’ Kerbside Violet, a chuckle-worthy combo of urban streetscape notes with the unmistakable, sappy-crackly bite of violet leaf. Like a 21st century, graffiti version of Fahrenheit, it never fails to elicit attention.

Persolaise is a multiple Jasmine Award winning writer and amateur perfumer with a lifelong interest in the world of fine fragrance. His perfume guide, Le Snob: Perfume, is published in English by Hardie Grant and in German by Süddeutsche Zeitung.

 

Pia Long


"Hours of maddening puzzlement and 80s flashbacks. I love it"

Mine is Alaia.

Describing Alaia merely on the like-dislike axis would be too simplistic. Wearing it feels like trying to listen to an old melody through a closed door. The scent stays on my mind in the same way a person you’ve just met can, for reasons you can’t quite pin down. Alaia’s structure and development is in equal parts frustrating and fascinating (a hint of Paris YSL on immediate top, maybe a suggestion of Fendi original - then what I can only describe as a blast of white floral deodorant spray - with all the softness, leathery notes, violets and rosy glow blown off like so much smoke).

And then, Anais Anais lurks there, minus the fresh aspect; an odd echo that just isn’t what the opening leads you to expect at all. On top of this, Alaia appears to be one of those scents that smells different from a distance than when you press your nose against the skin. Result? Hours of maddening puzzlement and 80s flashbacks. I love it.

Pia Long is a perfumer, freelance writer and an experienced cosmetics industry professional. 

While working for Lush Cosmetics, Pia created some of their best-selling product perfumes, including HQ “the smell of a Lush shop in a bottle.” She is a regular contributor to Basenotes and her own blog can be found at http://www.volatilefiction.co.uk

 

Rum


"a wonderful floral scent"

For me, 2015 has been a return to the aromatic fougère / chypre. Well, it’s hardly a return really. Every man has these genre of fragrance in their scented wardrobe and most of us don’t even know it. I’ve come away with full bottles of the legendary Azzaro Pour Homme, Rive Gauche & Kouros by YSL, Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and on the Chypre side classic Aramis and Chanel Pour Monsieur. But perhaps the best acquisition in this genre was the privately owned and produced Castle Forbes “1445” scent which is reminiscent of the mountainous air of the Scottish highlands and contains aromatic and resinous notes like fir balsams and pine.

In one of my other favourite genres, florals, the discovery of a wonderful floral scent, Rose de Taif by Perris Monte Carlo, came to my attention during the latter part of 2015. With its incense-rose accord and lemon-nutmeg opening this has been one that has conjured-up images of the Middle East without the use of oud notes which have become so common these past few years.

Forum Moderator Rum is from Greece, and now based in the UK.

 

Zachary McConnell


"an amazing, masterfully-blended woody oriental with great longevity"

Since niche fragrance shopping is nonexistent (for now) in Fort Wayne, I have to discover niche fragrances when I go to other cities. That said, my discovery of 2015 was found in Chicago: none other than Dior’s Leather Oud.

Wait a second - Leather Oud? One of the most controversial fragrances on Basenotes? Yup! And that’s part of the reason why I decided to try it. Maybe it’s just my skin chemistry, but I didn’t get a skanky fragrance. I did, however, get an amazing, masterfully-blended woody oriental with great longevity. So far this winter, I’ve had to pull it out a couple of times.

The biggest surprise? I’ve gotten a huge amount of compliments on Leather Oud.

A resident of Fort Wayne, Indiana since 2005, Zachary McConnell (you can call him Zach if you like) has been a fan of fragrances since a very young age, when he got a bottle of Hermes Equipage from a globe-trotting friend. While it wasn’t for him, it didn’t stop him from trying other fragrances, then joining Basenotes in 2004 (username: MFfan310).

Twitter: @MFfan310

Show articles by Zachary

 

Further Reading

Here's a round-up of Best of 2015's from other fragrance websites.

Now, your turn

 

What were your best fragrances of the last year? Let us know if you agree with our contributors in the comments.

We'll be also be opening up voting for the Annual Basenotes Awards very soon....

Voting open now

  • Share this

Categories

    Advertisement — comments are below

    Comments

      • nyneve | 30th December 2015 16:39

        Incarnata by AnatoleLeBreton: is better than Vecchi Rossetti Soliani, Misia Chanel and Lipstick Malle, very french, very chic

        Narcisse-émoi by Thierry Blondeau: THE perfect daffodil, it remember me wonderful flowers on Aubrac, France

        Fundamental Rubini by Cristiano Canali, art director Ermano Picco, on my skin is a lovely scent: iris, tobacco.. OH MY!!! a long lasting & sillage extra

      • Kaern | 30th December 2015 17:02

        I don't know what to say Grant -- Boss ? Pick me up someone

        Ultra Zest ??????? FFS!

        Haniya Rae nailed it -- she has exquisite taste

      • hednic | 30th December 2015 17:12

        Enjoyed reading about the choices and their reasons by the Basenotes contributors. Many were surprises

      • Ken_Russell | 30th December 2015 17:19

        Thanks for publishing - quite a few impressive fragrances here, rated from the perspective of BN members for the BN community, hence really enjoyed reading the article

      • Queenie | 30th December 2015 18:58

        My favourite perfume of 2015 without doubt is Papillon Salmoe. Very unique and can be worn as an everyday or for special occasions. Papillon also have some other perfumes if you prefer not to make such a statement as Salmoe does.

      • DerangedGoose | 30th December 2015 19:36

        No love for the Ephemera line? I thought BASS and NOISE were both really good, with NOISE being the edgier of the two, especially at the opening. Acrid smoke that gives way to pepper and earth -- very nice.

      • alfarom | 30th December 2015 20:16

        Total love for Ephemera on my side but they've been technically released in 2014….

      • Circo | 30th December 2015 21:30

        Great Article. Nice suggestions to try in 2016.

        My fave for this year - Devil In Disguise - Mark Buxton

      • DerangedGoose | 30th December 2015 22:52

        Ah, a mistake on my part then. You guys are definitely more informed than I!

      • diredior | 30th December 2015 23:32

        Sticking with tried classics. I have too many of them anyway!

      • MrsDalloway | 31st December 2015 17:12

        Great article - I have some more to try!

      • Jack Hunter | 31st December 2015 20:06

        I agree on Salome, as soon as I smelled this I knew I had to get a bottle. It smells like a throwback to the old vintage fragrances.

      • Bavard | 1st January 2016 13:22

        Between last year and this year, Papillon Artisan Perfumers are getting a lot of love. I may need a decant care package of their stuff.

      • AlanG | 1st January 2016 19:12

        Just ordered Boss The Scent based on your comments Grant, thank you for (indirectly, I respect your opinion) recommending something I otherwise wouldn't have given any attention to.

        A healthy and happy new year!

        Alan.

      • pluran | 2nd January 2016 00:43

        Bruno Fazzolari Room 237

        A semi-strange freshy-soapy salubrious thing. Quiet but with adequate character. Jack in 237, out of his mind needing sex ("just a problem with the old sperm bank...."). Kubrick set it up so well. The vague wet hair smell of costus, the vinyl, a fragrance that matches the idea. It's great to have this man Bruno Fazzolari around.

        But, really, it isn't as interesting as the big and bad animalic thing that is Papillon Salome. Amazing stuff that to some extent almost gets me off like smelling my girlfriend's panties after she's worn them on a three day hike. :-) It also feels like there's a condensed version of the sublime radiance of L'Heure Bleue lurking in there. Sure hope this great perfumer (Liz Moore) keeps making this kind of stuff. Really appreciate the style and the quality ! Nasty girl............

      • badarun | 2nd January 2016 01:09

        Ultra Zest being a # 1 for someone did shock me :( ...

        I did not venture into buying too many new releases this year, but of the ones I tried & ended up buying, Slumberhouse Kiste gets my vote. Bruno Fazzolari's Room 237 is my pick for the runner up.

        Agree with ClaireV & her remarks on Sauvage - it is indeed a f'ing chemical mess.

      • RedRaider430 | 2nd January 2016 01:43

        Yes, really unimpressive stuff for me, too, when I tried it. And I would add Eau Sauvage Cologne into the "horrible" mix for Dior lately as well.

        I don't know who is approving these things, but they are doing the name "Dior" a disservice.

      • drseid | 2nd January 2016 09:42

        Plenty of absolute loathing for those with me. The two mentioned were headlining my own *worst* releases of the year list (I don't care whether they were technically released in late 2014 or not, as sniffing Noise early 2015 in particular (not to mention hearing the "music" all of them were based on) will haunt me for the rest of my life). Scary bad stuff, those, IMO. Still, as Alfarom indicates in his reply, you are far from alone in your highly favorable point of view. These are quite polarizing releases, and I think whether one enjoys the music they were based on helps in "getting" them.

        As for best...? For me, it was easily Scent & Chemistry Kiss My Ass by O'driù. That one blew everything else I sniffed last year released in or around 2015 out of the water.

      • PerfumedLady | 3rd January 2016 14:06

        Great work, everyone! Really enjoyed this. Lots of things there I still need to try. Of those I know, I strongly agree with Kiliwia's Teazzurra pick. An unusual green tea scent that is so pleasant to wear.

        Judith's Truth or Dare pick was a total surprise! Agree with every word; love this one, too.

        And delighted to see that Claire will be joining the editorial team! Much deserved! I bet she already knows I agree with her "worst" pick. I am so sorry for your suffering Claire!

        Thanks to all for your entertaining efforts!

      • Scarce | 3rd January 2016 16:29

        In case anyone missed it...

        [QUOTE]Worst of the year? I don’t think anyone asked me, but Imma gonna say it anyway – Sauvage (Dior). My husband was supposed to bring me back a huge box of decants I’d been forced to leave behind in a recent move (from one country to another), but he arrived home with a massive bottle of this for himself instead. “What”, he said, puzzled at the incredulous look on my face, “But it had a poster of Johnny Depp next to it – I’m sure that means it’s good, right?” It’s been two months and every morning since, a cloud of harsh chemical stink emanates from his bathroom, infecting the corridors and kitchen with its noxious presence, reminding me that my precious decant of vintage Diorling was sacrificed to make way for THIS. And the fucker wasn’t even flying Ryanair. [/QUOTE]

        Next time tell us how you really feel, Claire. Don't hold back so much.

      • ClaireV | 4th January 2016 18:09

        Thank you, PerfumedLady for both your congratulations (I'm thrilled!) and your commiseration on the Sauvage-wearing husband. I've given him a cheap oud oil by Ajmal that smells like the arse end of a sheep, and even that is more bearable to me, but he insists on saving that one for special romantic occasions and the Sauvage for every day. Lucky me, huh....

        Scarce, thank you very much. It is true, I am too timid in my approach and am determined that 2016 will be the year in which I finally let loose.

      • PerfumedLady | 5th January 2016 15:54

        Oh, have mercy on us all. I, for one, cannot wait!