After a couple of years of absence from fairs and perfumes shows, I decided it was about time for me to go to Pitti Fragranze and see first-hand what's about to come in the niche-perfumery market. It was fun and exciting because I got to meet again with old and new friends I've been making during all these years but from a mere perfume-fan's point of view, I've to say these kind of events are not the best occasions to properly assess fragrances.
The stalls were all pretty much packed with people spraying the hell out of every single tester that gave birth to a perfume cacophony all over the place. On top of that, the super-hot climate of Florence didn't help at all. With that said, the purpose of this article is to present a brief list of what's coming out in the next few months or so. I will refrain myself from personal opinions that, for those interested, will be posted later this year in the reviews section.
Neela Vermeire is launching Rahele. A new, humongous, osmanthus-centered EDP by Neela's trusted Bertrand Duchaufour. After exploring the smells of India, Rahele represents a new trip towards other exotic lands.
Etat Libre D'Orange is coming out with two new fragrances, Yes I Do (which is apparently a re-naming / re-packaging of their previous Don't Get Me Wrong baby, I don't Swallow and Marquis De Sade - Attaquer Le Soleil. The former being a crystal white floral (mainly muguet in my recollection) and the latter a pepper-bomb with a Comme des Garçons vibe going on.
Andy Tauer re-interpreted his infamous L'Air Du Desert Marocain as an Extrait De Parfum. It's a whole new composition based on LDDM which he called Au Coeur Du Desert. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on the point of view) it seems this went pretty well with Italian buyers so foreign markets might have to wait a little longer to see it on the shelves.
Heeley introduced Eau Sacrée in his "extrait de parfums" line (the short bottles in which he previously released Bubblegum Chic, Phoenicia, Agarwoud and the likes). With notes of aldehydes, incense clove, nutmeg, pepper, amber, cedar, musk, opoponax and sandalwood this might become a favorite of many.
Prodigy's drummer – Leo Crabtree – released Fathom V with his Beaufort outfit. A bitter-green fragrance with a mossy vein that could be of interest to those who like Andrea Maack's Coven or, say, Amouage Memoir Man.
Moving on towards what really impressed me, Italian avant-garde artisanal jewellery brand Goti, launched four new fragrances inspired by elements - Fuoco, Aria, Acqua and Terra. All of them striked as pretty interesting takes on four modern perfumery themes that go from earthy vetiver to smoke via a bizarre aquatic and a licorice-based kinda aromatic-fougere-y thing. Goti also gets my personal award for releasing one of the best bottle / packaging design of the whole Fragranze show.
Swiss brand Sammarco didn't introduce anything new but he let some of us smell a new fragrance Giovanni's been working on for quite a while now that should probably be released next year. It's called Naias and boy this is mind-blowing. A ionones-loaded violet-rose with a super classic base. If you're into humongous florientals, you'll have to look no further.
After all the attention Filippo Sorcinelli got with his UNUM outfit, he now started a new line of fragrances called SAUF with which he introduced three new compositions inspired by two of Sorcinelli's biggest passions - organs and incense. All three are different declinations of the main theme the go from baritonal incense-amber to airy incense.
Last but not least, Olfactive Studio is ready to release Close Up by one of the biggest crowd-pleasers known to perfumery – Annick Menardo. As a good friend said, this really could give Musc Ravageur hard-times.
So, that's it from me this year, folks. I didn't have much time during the fair and everything was pretty overwhelming but I hope I could at least give you a relevant idea on what's coming out in the next semester or so… Thanks for reading and smell good, everyone!
Also, expect new stuff pretty soon from Atelier Des Or, Aether, Phaedon, Miller Et Bertaux, Laboratorio Olfattivo, Clive Christian, Carner Barcelona, Perris Montecarlo, Parfumerie Generale, LM Parfums, Blood Concept, Maria Candida Gentile, Oliver & Co and several others….