Latest Fragrance Reviews, Updated Daily

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    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Sulphur by Nu_Be

    Sulphur did not disappoint my overanxious expectations for the new releases from a brand i'm utterly in love for. This is a spicy/aromatic fragrance somehow dark and mineral. Inhaling this potion i'm in a second smitten by its resemblance with a bunch of aromas i feel in a while inside in the olfactory memory without being able to root those up immediately outside. Few time later those olfactory conjurations emerge and i can shout....yes.....Ungaro III and Jacques Zolty by Jaques Zolty. The UIII's nuances emerge in the dark floral (somewhat rosey) spiciness, in the classic chypre approach (cedarwood, vetiver, oakmoss) and in the aromatic/citric, slightly boozy, presence (lavender, citrus, etc) while the Zolty's approach is aroused by the mineral (typically "Nu_besque"), slightly sulphureous, resinous (cypress resins) and almost minty vibe (beyond the musky, slightly incensey and woody feel plus the ambergris presence). Sulphur expresses anyway an its own personal characterizing performance with a sheer pungent, peppery, salty and spicy (strong cinnamon) vibe sliding towards a sort of deep weird animalic/aromatic/leathery (somewhat minty) temperament. The latter is almost strident, prickly, dusty and leathery, i would also underline a sort of musky/animalic background provided by costus and castoreum for sure. I like the "wet-air" feel that i smell in the animalic slightly leathery and peppery muskiness. The intense boozy spiciness is stout for long, barely receding along the dry down which is mossy/leathery and woody (i don't see just a sheer vetiver presence for sure but mostly patchouli and cedarwood), slightly tamed (soothed) by hints of resinous balsams but still spicy/rosey and slightly aqueous/boozy (it seems almost to detect the lavender/vodka/floral UIII's spiciness despite in here this feel is spicier and more pungent). I detect the spicy, woody, floral and resinous Carbon's foundation but Sulphur is less floral/powdery and more aromatic/piquant to me. Yes, i catch throughout the Nu_be's typically restrained, hyperbaric and chilling out dose of "molecular/inebriating/anaesthetic holiness" with weird plastic, smoky, gingery and peppery/incensey "nuclear" sparks (and trust me friends if i write that in these waves i detect a sort of Basala's ghosty presence in the atmosphere). I also see some CDG's peaceful conceptual landmark but this Nu_be's one is less aqueous/incensey and more typically chaotic, mineral and piquant. Hypnotic mysticism frankly far more dark than yellow, probably more hellish and narcotic than quietly assertive. Another wonderful experimental stout Nu_be for us.
    Ps. This fragrance jumped immediately up on the stage of my top five new releases wish list.

    11th December, 2013 (Last Edited: 12 December, 2013)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Acqua di Cuba by Santa Maria Novella

    A sweet combination of citrus (i suppose lemon/bergamot and orange), dry woods (i suppose sandalwood and hints of cedarwood), (himidor) tobacco and leather with a subtle bitter aftertaste throughout and a touch of amber/vanilla (may be properly honey) in the blend. Acqua di Cuba is exotic, artisanal, balmy/fresh and clean. I detect some Cigar Remy Latour's vibe but the latter is more musky and less resinous and tobacco centered. Yes, never cloying despite its notable mildness, basically balmy and slightly powdery. The wearer exudes at distance and aura of fresh, vaguely piquant, aromatic, classic and exotic (spicy, i suppose pepper and cloves) tobacco balminess with a slightly musty bitter feel that is finally unmistakably leathery and spicy. The transition towards the dry down can be slightly problematic because of some effectively "acrid"-- i would write "bitter/sweet"--(a touch of saffron or ginger?) feel along the trip, i suppose also due to some fir's resins presence in the blend. The dry down is an honeyed (in a balanced way) and spicy/leathery sweet tobacco scent soooo carribean (vaguely sultry) type but also so classic, dignified and daring. Wonderful bottle, more than good projection and duration. An high quality fragrance for sure.

    11th December, 2013

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    flathorn
    United States United States

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    Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

    This fragrance was so easy-going on my skin, in spite of the strong birch tar and smoke. When it first opened I got an immediate impression of smoke, patchouli and cream soda or root beer. I think it was the combination of vanilla, birch and a Lapsong-type tea note, lightly sweetened. The patchouli provided a roughened earthy ambiance. I should have been offended by the combination but I wasn't. It was kind of comforting.
    In the mid note, more leather came out. I was surprised I had little problem with the root beer (or cream soda, it kept changing) and leather combination. If I'd read this description of a fragrance I wouldn't be willing to try it. I think I was okay with it because these notes weren't welded in place. They were the product of quite a few notes floating around creating associations, one of which was cream soda. But it shifted to Lapsong tea, styrax, leather, an agreeable earthy patchouli and birchy root soda.
    I thought this was a comfort fragrance - there were so many associations from my childhood in it. It is strongly birch tarnish, but I grew up burning birchwood in a wood stove, so this is like being home. It's impossible for me to see this one objectively, but I don't really care. I thought it had a fair amount of complexity built into it, what with the way the notes shifted and formed new chords throughout the life of the fragrance. Kind of a neat trick really. Not my type of fragrance, but I can't help but love it.

    11th December, 2013

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Blue Encens by Comme des Garçons


    This is a fantastic incensey experiment by the Comme des Garcon notorious maison, a juice arousing an humid and dusty (minty/incensey and peppery) sense of daring freshness. Original, dry, cool, modern and evocative. More substantially "Blue" (mineral dry-amber plus sparkling cardamom) than "Encens" (nothing smokey or liturgical of course but something aqueous, transparent and fluidy more in line with the CDG's style). This fragrance can be a worthy alternative to the dozens of sporty/aquatic or woody/ambroxan current experiments around for all those being willing to catch the train of the contemporaneity in a more than dignified way. I agree with the Alfarom's digression about the key role played by the note of dry incense (as well as often by cardamom) in the brand's style (a brand faithful to a quiet sense of dusty transparency), a sort of often distinctive landmark, a "silent" olfactory transparency in this case closer to Hinoki (though in a less ascetic/ ancient and more daring and charming way) than to Wonderwood (more properly woody and "enviromental") or 2 Man. Effectively the mineral amber crystals play a role of absolute protagonist together with a weird aqueous type of incense and the cardamom itself for sure. The mix provides a weird "silver-crystal" cool vibe, something fresh, dusty/metallic and slightly fizzy. The former three elements paint the real atmosphere provided outside by this molecular and cool/prickly aroma. The notes of mint and artemisia enjance a sort of almost frozen effect throughout (the blue vibe, which is not something sporty/soapy or gym type for sure, as said--effectively hard to be without traces of citrus, grapefruit, patchouli of synthetic ambergris--but an ideal "ambient" feel aroused in our imagination by some aqueous spicy incense plus minty/aromatic elements) while the cinnamon imprints a faint sweet spicy undertone. This blue atmosphere is slightly exotic, daring and fresh. I detect some aquatic molecules, nothing calone-centered or typically ozonic in a synthetic way but something a la Guy Laroche Horizon, namely more properly "oceanic"/aromatic and vaguely salty. The "mainstream" vibe is effectively provided by the interaction of some prickly spices (cardamom plus hints of sweet cinnamon) with a sparkling "water-crystal" dry amber endowed by a minty twist. Wearable for a casual well trimmed sporty middle-aged man, charismatic and sensible. Longevity and projection are moderate on my skin. Dynamic bottle.

    10th December, 2013

    Francop's avatar
    Francop
    Spain Spain

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    Gianfranco Ferré for Man by Gianfranco Ferré

    Gorgeous Fougere and Chypre scent; can it get any better?

    Love the masculine notes; it starts citrusy, becomes herbal aromatic with floral notes and finishes leathery and mossy.

    Good Longevity and sillage!

    Thumbs up!

    10th December, 2013

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    Francop
    Spain Spain

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    New York Patchouli by Bond No. 9

    Retro! Retro! Retro Masculine!

    Gorgeous 80's Powerfrag! Love it!

    This scent is a well done recreation of what barber shop scents used to be like in the 80's.

    The start is very fresh, with citrus, ginger and cardamon notes. There is already a masculine wintry dusty quality to it; think hats, coats, gloves and dark clothing attire. Is there already a bit of leather peeking through?

    The heart is full of dense patchouli rather than loud crystalline patchouli as in Hot Always by the same house. I can also detect rose, lily and possibly saffron/sandalwood notes that remind me slightly of New York Oud by the same house but this phase is brief and very subtle. After a couple of hours I detect a strong musk note that will envelope you for ages. This note will then become the main note in the drydown along with the dense patchouli and possibly moss with some hints of leather.

    The Longevity is excellent and the projection is also good.

    I would describe this scent as a Fougere, not as Oriental.

    I am glad this Bond is not a gourmand scent but a scent for real men, think AlPacino in the Godfather...

    I like it very much and take my hat to it! Chapeau!

    Well Done Bond for Creativity. I would have called it New York for Fall!

    Thumbs up!

    10th December, 2013

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    drseid
    United States United States

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    Black by Puredistance

    Black opens with a very brief clean jasmine floral laced with mild saffron spice before moving to its heart. During the early heart phase the jasmine and saffron both deepen as they are joined by a starring burnt rubbery slightly sweet incense and oud tandem with a plum-like undertone. As the composition moves through its middle the incense and oud tandem combines with an underlying sharp vetiver and leather accord that counters the earlier sweetness and adds an aggressive edge. During the late dry-down the incense and oud finally dissipate as the composition softens and turns more fresh with sanitized patchouli joining the remnants of the jasmine, diminished vetiver and now supple suede leather with hints of cedar subtly peeping in and out. Projection is average and longevity excellent to outstanding at well over 12 hours on skin.

    Black is a fragrance that I really didn't know *what* to expect. On the one hand it has some great pedigree as Puredistance M is a favorite and the house has yet to release a dud... On the other, Antonie Lie, while certainly competent and capable is the nose behind Secretions Manifiques and a few other compositions I dislike. Nose aside, I found Black a pretty good composition on the whole but certainly with some flaws... On the positive side, the late dry-down is very nice and the open isn't any slouch either. Where things get just a touch iffy is in the early heart as the slightly sweet burnt rubbery incense and oud overpowers what otherwise is a really very nice jasmine and saffron tandem. Some have compared the composition to the truly awful Black Afgano (I am sure many meant it as a compliment) and I can see where they are coming from to a degree, but it may be a bit closer to Arso's heart accord to my nose. Either way, Black thankfully does not clone either of them, instead following its own path. One alleged drawback that some have noted of Black is its disappointing projection. To this reviewer it is just right with the fragrance far from a skin scent, but not a powerhouse by any measure, making it more versatile. The bottom line is the $198 per 17.5ml extrait Black may not rise to the level of the best Puredistance releases and is relatively costly on a per ml basis, but it smells quite good indeed and is worthy of consideration earning a "very good" 3.5 stars out of 5.

    10th December, 2013

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    drseid
    United States United States

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    Montecristo by Masque

    Montecristo opens with a fresh cinnamon and nutmeg spice-like accord before quickly moving to its middle. During the early heart, the composition warms considerably as the early spice joins dry tobacco leaf and a very powerful animalic accord exhibiting facets of fecal civet, powerful musk and thick castoreum. During the late dry-down the animalics, tobacco and warm spice slowly recede to reveal hints of patchouli and the vague natural woody accord underpinning everything. Projection is above average and longevity is average at 8-10 hours on skin.

    Montecristo is a tough composition to pin down. On paper the spicy aspects are much more prominent, but as soon as the fragrance is sprayed on skin, the animalic facets come out in full force. The aforementioned potent animalic accord is not easily identifiable as it features facets of many different types of animalics encountered in other compositions yet not quite the same as any. You first notice the fecal aspects commonly encountered with civet, then heavy musk with a cumin-like spice undertone joins in (possibly derived from musk mallow), and finally a thick castoreum adds weight. Quite frankly, the composition represents one of the most aggressive animalic concoctions available, past or present. That said, once the more aggressive facets slowly recede and patchouli and wood from the base are unveiled to blend with their remnants the fragrance really turns into something special. Getting to that stage is going to be tough for many, however, and indeed it was for me. The bottom line is the 150 euros per 100ml bottle Montecristo is a fascinating highly innovative composition that is tough to wear but ultimately rewarding to the brave souls that make it past the potent animalic early heart phase, earning a "very good" 3.5 stars out of 5. Definitely recommended to hard-core animalic lovers.

    10th December, 2013

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Blue Santal by Comme des Garçons

    An *Humanized* version of Odeur 53? Well, sort of…

    The main theme here comes directly from those clean yet austere woody fragrances such as Gucci Rush For Men, Tam Dao and Wonderwood but Blue Santal brings to the table a bunch of juxtapositions that most of the above fragrances lack. The overall vibe is made of the same clean-metallic-woody-incense combo of Odeur 53 but it's sort of tamed, more human and less abstract. A thick synth sandalwood base a-la Wonderwood serves to add some extra body giving birth, at the same time, to a warm juxtaposition with the metallic incense while peppery nuances recall the austerity of Gucci Rush For Men. This is basically the bone structure of Blue Santal but the fragrance has something more to offer…the CDG's twist.

    The above scenario is successfully enriched by a pine-juniper combo which is absolutely awesome. It strikes with a freezing effect and a plethora of micro-facets generated by the interaction of these two elements with the rest of the composition. They go go from turpentine undertones (originally extracted from pinewood) to gunpowder via immense landscapes, dark-green elements, snow-covered forests and, at the same time, summer-ish spices, gin, frozen glasses and sparkling skies…

    I would rank this at the same level of Blue Encens and despite I've not appreciated Blue Cedrat as I expected (hoped), I strongly believe this is a pretty solid trio. Another fantastic option to enter the CDG's world.

    Tremendous.

    10th December, 2013

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    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Blue Cedrat by Comme des Garçons

    Blue Cedrat is probably the most commercial delivery in the Blue Series (or whatever they call it) and, admittedly, I was ready to dismiss it and bash it right after my first test on paper because of the strongly generic opening. Fortunately, knowing that Comme Des Garcons is not new to tricky fragrances, I decided to give it a second chance by grabbing a sample…and I'm (partially) glad I did.

    A full wearing revealed a simple yet quite evolving fragrance. The opening still strikes as extremely generic in its somewhat trite iteration of the woody-citrus accord but the composition quickly opened to a *majestic* angelica accord that felt almost astringent in its incredibly green nuances while a subtle rose oxyde note, provided the usual metallic facets of many CDGs. In this phase Blue Cedrat was very earthy, refreshing, dry and incredibly radiant but, something else was just about to happen…

    A smooth, dry, woody-incensey note makes its appearance and joined by a massive vetiver base slowly takes over to give birth to what can be considered the real essence of Blue Cedrat. This is actually when I began questioning the fragrance again…

    On one side, I loved that the fragrance had three distinct phases that alternated theirselves so smoothly and naturally generating quite some pathos. On the other hand, I'm getting a bit tired of dry woods. I've to say though, that no less than 3-4 years ago, I would have probably went completely head over heels for whatever fragrance playing a similar theme. Today, as a matter of fact, this is probably my least favorite in the new *Blue* trio but, at the same time, it's far from being unremarkable especially when it comes to the quality/price ratio. If one's into dry woods, green fragrances and vetiver, this is something worth checking out. No doubts.

    This is what I expected from Amazingreen but it probably would have been more appropriately labelled as Nicegreen. I believe this is going to be the real *hit* as far as commercial potential.

    A few keywords: French Lover, Terre D'Hermes, L'Homme Infini, Anat Fritz Tzora, Kenzoair, Comme Des Garcons 3, Fleurs De Sel, Jardin Du Poete.

    10th December, 2013

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    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Blue Encens by Comme des Garçons

    Another attempt by Comme Des Garcons at catching the attention of the mainstream crowd but, unlike their previous Amazingreen, this time they nailed it. Blue Encens is probably not as artsy as other *edgier* deliveries from this house but it is SO nicely played to result incredibly likable while still skipping dullness. Safe? Yes, probably safer than, say, SKAI! Boring? No.

    One of the keys to properly evaluate BE, is to get rid of the prejudices that might come with the *Blue* part of its name and with the overall sporty vibe that comes with the packaging and marketing. THIS IS NOT A SPORT FRAGRANCE. The concept here is to take previous CDGs themes (Hinoki, H&M and Dover Street Market come to mind) and give them a mainstreamish twist by adding, in this case, a solid cinnamon-cardamom combo which seem to be two of the flavors of the day. What comes out is a slightly metallic amber-incense fragrance in the typical CDG's style with a fresh and persistent spicy accord. The cardamom is the real star here and it's the first time that enters the CDG's world. Plenty of it throughout, while a subtle cinnamon note supports the incense base enhancing the freezing effect together with subtle calone-y undertones. What really makes the difference from most designers, is how at CDG they keep on skipping those massive woodyambers that currently overpopulate the mainstream market. Another interesting aspect is that Blue Encens has no citruses whatsoever (not a good thing per se but definitely something to increase the distance from sporty stuff). The fragrance wears smoothly but it's pretty radiant, feels perfectly sized, safe but not generic. An easy wear just like a basic t-shirt. They apparently all look the same but, depending on fabric, cut and style, they wear incredibly different.

    I've seen someone complained somewhere saying we didn't need another incense fragrance by CDG. Well, I think that's somehow a wrong assessment. Incense is to CDG exactly as vanilla is to Guerlain, iris to Chanel and hay to Parfums De Nicolai. It's in their DNA, it's their signature, it's part of their heritage and, most of all, they're very good at using it. With that said, I'd personally classify Blue Encens as a cardamom-driven fragrance built around a spicy-incense base so, if you're ok with a *safe* Comme, go ahead, Blue Encens is probably not groundbreaking but it's delightful nonetheless.

    Downline: Blue Encens goes together with Wonderwood, CDG2Man, The Cologne Series and The Sherbet Series. "Intelligent Pop". Safe and honest.

    10th December, 2013

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    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    La Fin du Monde by Etat Libre d'Orange

    They said this is an easy one. They said this is a more bombastic version of Dior Homme. They said this will almost pass unnoticed amongst the plethora of deliveries of this late 2013. They said a lot of things but, actually, La Fin Du Monde is a very funny and incredibly solid fragrance.

    Yes, the link to Dior Homme is probably there but it's only relegated to the fact they both focus on iris as the core accord (which is honestly not enough to consider them similar). Just like with many other ELDOs, the fragrance is pervaded by an incredible sense of humor and subtle twists. Here, what really fascinates me, it's the almost holographic gunpowder accord which paired to the carrot-seed and the iris give birth to a funny accord entirely based on juxtapositions. It's like bombing a bouquet of flowers with a massive dose of TNT and some spices.

    There's also powder but it doesn't bring the fragrance towards affected territories. Instead, it enhances its pleasant oddness by emphasizing two polar opposites. Iris and gunpowder. On top of that, a smooth synth sandalwood / woody thing provides some extra body.

    Downline: The fragrance is based around the safest and most conventional iris / carrot seed accord but carefully and masterfully deranged by a lot of funny and dangerous things that will keep your attention up for quite a while.

    Probably not my favorite from the line but still extremely enjoyable and way more honest than most pretentious niche lines with their silly promises of faux luxury and exclusivity.

    If the french revolution were done with Uzis instead of pitchforks, this is what Paris would have smelled like!

    10th December, 2013

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    flathorn
    United States United States

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    Narcisse Noir by Caron

    This review is only for the reformulated EDT.
    It opened strongly, surprisingly soapy. I wasn't expecting that. It is the soapiness of the combination of florals with the sandalwood, so it isn't offensive. Czech and Speake 88 has a similar soap accord produced by the combination of sandalwood and rose & geranium, but that one is couched in a complex myriad of notes, so the soapy note doesn't dominate, while this has been fairly linear on me - soap and floral.
    It opened with a light, soft orange blossom soapy note, which faded into a less sweetly floral soapy narcissus middle note. It dried down within several hours to not so much floral as soap... though a clean and lovely soap. There is next to zero deep base. The musk if present is a white musk with somewhat the same feel it produces - clean, quiet, soft. I'm sure a clean sandalwood is contributing to that also. At the very end the soapiness leaves and I was left with a pleasant light orange flower, rose & narcissus bouquet.
    I'm not sure what to think of it. I'm trying to stay away from comparisons with the original, because they seem to have no vestiges of kinship. I've never minded soapy fragrances myself, so I'm not offended by the new Narcisse Noir. I understand their clean fresh appeal and tend to like them more than clean 'aquatics' or powder. But I wasn't seduced by it and don't think I'd purchase it.

    10th December, 2013

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    pluran
    United States United States

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    Sagamore by Lancôme

    Talking about great chypres: Mitsouko, Chypre de Coty, Pour Monsieur, Eau Sauvage, etc, Sagamore is one of the best. The reissue is slightly pale compared to the original, but it still smells great. Still smells like a fresh mossy woods chypre. It’s also less oriental, which is good because as a straight chypre it doesn’t need to be sweet. I don’t need it to be. Basically it’s a creamier/dustier Pour Monsieur, not quite as clear and effervescent, lacks the faint smell of a great scotch as in vintage Pour Monsieur, but it’s fairly amazing it was reissued in 2005 when things like this were basically gone. Sagamore’s stronger musk might also turn some people off. I’d always use vintage Pour Monsieur as the example of a perfect chypre drydown. I also don’t compare Sagamore with things like the heavily ornamented oriental chypre Tiffany for Men, which is a good fragrance but tires me, loses me after a few wears. Not at all the same when it comes to wearing it day in and out. Sagamore is a great masculine, a great virile chypre, well defined and durable but never reaching beyond with the absurd radiance people think they’re so fond of today. Smells like a man, blends with the man, distinguished, a man whose presence always says far more than a cologne ever could.

    09 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 10th December, 2013)

    lpp's avatar
    lpp
    England England

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    Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas

    Whilst singularly unqualified to review this, will scribble some thoughts in the absence of any proper reviews here.

    Wow - bought this one on a whim and initially found the opening a little strident.

    Moving on swiftly (as it does), this is a lovely iris - less overwhelmingly 'carroty' than some, not sweet or powdery but an elegant rainbow of iris facets.

    After the irisy anise & very slight juniper come leather and a shy rose, incense, vetiver, the oud has to be sought, all shining together and holding out until the end.

    09 December, 2013

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    La Fille De Berlin by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A weird indolic dark/spicy rose for us. The rose is red and intense, peppery and finally pungent. Is a bit like inaling the aroma emerging from crushed red petals. I detect hints of lime or bergamot, grass and may be carnation. Supremely floral with a final almost stale floral miasm rising from the skin and an almost off putting initial lymphatic grassiness with a simil-metallic type of vibe (something really too much for me, conjuring me slightly some glue or a sort of xerox-toner twist a la Odeur 71). La Fille de Berlin is realistic, enigmatic and minimalist (temperaments i really appreciate) but is also wild, too much wild and crude for my full pleasure. Good longevity and powerful projection on my skin.

    09 December, 2013

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    Marais
    United Kingdom United Kingdom

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    Monsieur by Huitième Art

    The 'Monsieur' monicker brings with it certain expectations, which I do not think are met here. It starts off promisingly enough, with deep, dark, woody notes, enlivened by some leafy sprigs of green. A few hours later, the greenery has wilted and you are left with a fairly basic cedar/incense skin scent reminiscent of something Comme des Garcons might have put out over a decade ago. Not a bad fragrance but I expected more. Longevity is good but it's quiet in the drydown.

    09 December, 2013

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Montecristo by Masque

    Composed by Delphine Thierry (who also worked on Galaad and Akkad by Lubin and a couple of the Cloon Keen Atelier stuff), Montecristo is definitely a wower for anyone who like skanky /musky / spicy / woody things.

    The opening is literally arresting. A skank overload provided by a thick amount of hirax and other animalic musks. It immediately brings to mind of the fecal opening of MKK but whereas the Lutens morphes into a floral rosey thing, Montecristo gets all dark and moody with tobacco, resins and some of the darkest patchouli ever. Boozy / balmy notes lurk in the back providing some smoothness to an otherwise extremely challenging fragrance. The result is fascinating to say the least. The fragrance is pervaded by a warm animalic vibe throughout. Sort of a mash up between Lubin's most oriental offerings and heavy animalic musks fragrances a-la Musk Tonkin and MKK.

    This is a MANDATORY try for anyone into challenging stuff! Seriously.

    09 December, 2013

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Terralba by Masque

    After the big surprise of Montecristo, I felt more than intrigued to explore the rest of the Masque's line and I've to say Terralba was another winner.

    In a nutshell, it strikes as a less minimalistic version of Sel Marin mashed up with Fleurs De Sel and with some extra potency. Terralba shares the same salty woody citrusy aspect of the Heeley but it's enriched by some mediterranean aromatic herbs such as mirtle, juniper, clary sage and thyme which enhance the overall summery vibe and drive the fragrance towards more complex territories. Notes list also immortelle but it's neither dominant nor prominent at all. It sort of lurks in the back providing a little extra body while, at the same time, concurring to remarkably extend longevity. The woods are smooth, resiny and sort of warm as opposed to angular and sharp.

    So, aromatic, woody, salty and summery but NOT aquatic. More of a walk on the Sardinian / Corse sand dunes on a hot mid-summer day, than a day at the beach. In this context, the fragrance feels also very vegetal and resinous. Green, brown and yellow with white undertones. Quite a different beast from Montecristo. Totally at the opposite, If I've to be honest, but nonetheless unique and extremely nice. If you like absolutely non-sweet stuff, smooth woods, herbal fragrances and salty nouances, give this a shot.

    A few keywords: Sel Marin, Eau D'Ikar, Harmatan Noir, Fleurs De Sel, L'Humaniste.

    Terralba, just like Montecristo, was composed by Delphine Thierry.

    09 December, 2013

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    flathorn
    United States United States

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    Black by Comme des Garçons

    The opening was a little too 'fresh' for me, mainly because it seems like an overworked opening for unisex and masculine scents, and begins to feel like a throwaway opening accord sometimes. I prefer openings to have a real connection with the rest of the fragrance - it makes it feel more cohesive to me. This one didn't entirely convince me of that. But that is my quibble. The opening, though forgettable, was shortlived, unobjectionable and transitioned well into the heart note.
    Which is where Black started to shine. What a sensual elixir of leather, pepper, incense and woody vetiver. It was delectable and stayed on point through the dry down, becoming slightly more vetiver at the end, but it is by no means a dry fragrance, instead having an incensy warmth, not quite tipping over into amber.
    It doesn't have a lot of sillage, a plus in rich fragrances like this. In other words, it stays in your own space and doesn't project into others, which is always a little rude. It makes Black more personal, which is a nice thing in a sexy fragrance, which I consider this to be. Sexy fragrances are always more effective when they say "Come hither" instead of shouting.

    08 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 09 December, 2013)

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Epice Marine by Hermès

    Epice Marine is as interesting as a fireworks show at noon.

    I'll probably find myself swimming against the stream here but, honestly, I don't think this is nowhere close being a successful Ellena.

    Yet another iteration (micro-variation) on the Declaration theme. In a nutshell, considering how many times Mr.Ellenà proposed alternate versions of his popular composition, this would have been more appropriately labelled as Declaration V.87.4. It feels just like Apple that keeps on releasing basically the same devices with just a new (re-designed) knob.

    They squeazed this poor lemon till the very last drop. Give it a break. Eat a banana.

    So, part Declaration, part Voyage with the typical transparent facet of most Hermessences. This time it's something slightly salty, sort of calone-y. That's it. Smells ok (no more than that) but the big problem is it's neither as brilliant as Declaration, nor as honest as Voyage. It's totally lukewarm water sold at uber-fancy prices.

    You can build around Epice Marine as much conceptualism as you want but this is just Declaration V.87.4.

    I honestly expected everything except what I got. Which in this case doesn't mean surprise.

    FAIL

    08 December, 2013

    Francop's avatar
    Francop
    Spain Spain

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    Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

    Gorgeous 70`s fougere scent full of herbal aromatic moss, lavender, geranium and carnation. If you are fortunate enough to see the vintage formula, get it!

    An example of what masculine fougere scents were like in its day.

    An absolute must for a fougere lover like myself.

    Longevity of about 4 hours and medium sillage.

    Thumbs up!

    07 December, 2013

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Killer Queen by Katy Perry

    Smells like over sweetened raspberry Kool-Aid. This isn't a good thing. Nothing nuanced about it, that's all I got. It was on my wrist 2 hours ago, now it's completely gone.

    07 December, 2013

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    La Petite Robe Noire 2012 by Guerlain

    I do love it and didn't think I would! It's very sweet but well balanced. It reminds me of L'heure Bleue but with more sweetness. For that reason, I'm not going to rush to buy it but I would wear it on a regular basis if I owned it. I tested the EDP btw!

    07 December, 2013

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Samsara by Guerlain

    This is a masterpiece, no question. The sandalwood, ylang-ylang and jasmine are perfectly balanced. I have a feeling the peach mentioned below is being mistaken for those floral notes. This is not peach. It's a clean sandalwood unlike other favs of mine like Obsession which are a bit more dirty. No leather like Cartier Must no civet like Obsession. Just rich, soapy, creamy sweet and powdery.

    Someone said on the forum recently that Samsara is one of the most wearable Guerlain, maybe the most wearable perfume ever. I agree.

    07 December, 2013

    SteelerOpera's avatar
    SteelerOpera
    United States United States

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    Burberry Summer For Men 2013 by Burberry

    Sadly a very boring and inconsequential fragrance. Last years summer release, Burberry Brit Summer, was rather decent and I have worn it a few times. This was a very generic, weak citrus fragrance mixed with the note that everyone seemed to use this year, Mint. Not even sure if it would be worth it to pick up at TJ's for more than $15 a bottle.

    07 December, 2013

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Shalimar by Guerlain

    It's a classic fragrance that is so complex, creamy and gorgeous, I just cannot get enough. The lemon pledge comments are out in left field to me.

    There's bergamot and citrus at first which dries down to a powdery and sexy leather. It's to die for I think I can safely say this is my signature, I've loved it since I was very young but it hasn't always been my favourite. It's taken time to fully appreciate this scent. Once you see what other fragrances there are the chose from, nothing beats Shalimar. If you want gormand you have vanilla, if you love freshness you have the citrus, if you like powder there's the iris. If you want to be a bit dirty, there's the leather. t's full rounded perfection. <3

    06 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 11th December, 2013)

    Francop's avatar
    Francop
    Spain Spain

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    Fresco di Vetiver by I Profumi di Firenze

    This is the driest vetiver I have ever smelt in a very masculine version of this note.

    Great composition of citrus, vetiver and woods with decent longevity!

    Thumbs up!

    06 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 07 December, 2013)

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Womanity by Thierry Mugler

    I have to be in the right mood to wear this and when I am in that mood, it is divine. With all of my other scents I can wear them to the grocery store quite comfortably, the weather is all I let dictate what scent I wear. I'll wear it day or night, dinner date with my husband or lunch date with a friend, doesn't matter. But, Womanity, is strictly romantic date material. ;)

    For the record, there is no fish smell in this perfume. Clean women don't smell like fish, ever. This does smell like a clean woman though, which to me, is musky and savoury. Now, you don't want to spray that on yourself so TM added Fig which is a pretty strong symbol of womankind.

    To the people saying this isn't about women's sexuality, see, you say it's what we want to see in the perfume, how about Womanity not being about a woman's sexuality is what you want see? ;) We can go around like this for awhile. My husband smelled this on me and right away said it smelled like sex. This is when I actually researched it and was amazed to learn that that was probably the whole point. I got it as a Sephora sample and wore it that day, never even heard of it before that day.

    I love how unique it is and bought a full sized refillable bottle asap but I don't wear it often.

    06 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 07 December, 2013)

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Blu II by Bulgari

    I bought it blind and from the notes, I should have loved it. Powdery and spicy, violet and iris, perfect. Nope. I think it smells like a cheap totally synthetic fragrance that just does not work for me. :(

    06 December, 2013 (Last Edited: 07 December, 2013)

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