Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 145148

Blood & Honey by Sixteen92

Noses that are familiar with the Honeyed Urine-ous accord in Leather Oud and Fecal of Furyo may find Blood and Orange opening similar. A sweet and forceful Muskiness reminiscent to Saliva and yes, Urine. Quickly it's opening steps back into the background of Incense and Hay. A bordering tobacco accord comes forth.
Drydown is Feminine, Soft and most Human. Can't stop sniffing this sexy thing.
23rd July, 2018

Naja by Vero Profumo

I was interested in trying this since I like linden flowers. Not so keen on honey since it often turns urinous. However the big surprise is that it smells rather strongly of Tiger Balm (menthol) on my skin. Obviously not a fit for me.
23rd July, 2018

Tolu by Ormonde Jayne

Excellent review by JTD below. I agree with most that is said and do not have much to add. It is a rather soft and resinous oriental. Somewhat floral but not much. Beautiful and long lasting. It is true that it reminds us of older oriental fragrances, but it does not feel dated at all. And it does not remind me of granny's fragrances.

It may lean a bit feminine, though not really. The floral aspect is soft and the resinous part dominates. I would say unisex.
23rd July, 2018
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Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade by Etat Libre d'Orange

It is an ok fragrance in my book, clearly a rather pure labdanum. I wouldn't use it though since it is too sharp and I prefer something more complex and rounded.
23rd July, 2018

Nombre Noir by Shiseido

I tried to put all expectations aside and approach this like smelling any other sample...the first 30 seconds or so hit my nose like the vinegary aldehyde opening of Balenciaga pour Homme...I then get a steady buildup of rose with the rooty/bitterish/herby smell from a blending of carnation and orris root...seems to straddle two worlds...a classic smelling fragrance with a timeless quality...not a powerhouse by any means , but smooth and suave and laid back...to my nose, about as perfectly unisex as you can get...does pull you in and makes you want to stay glued to the back of your hand to marvel at the subtle developments....very well blended and has an air of quality ingredients...i have to agree with a couple of other reviews i've read that this is somewhat similar to Acteur...the rose in this does ring that bell for me, but in a good way...has an all-around woody ambience...ever so slightly powdery...overall, a very pleasing and enjoyable rose fragrance, but I don't think it's something I personally would be adding to my wardrobe , even at a reasonable price...
23rd July, 2018

Sunshine Man by Amouage

Reminds me of sweet, sugary, dried fruit. Does have similarities with Baccarat Rouge 540, at least to me. There's also this very dry, almost burned cedar that gives it a slight mid-eastern feel. THere's also some powderiness in the drydown.

The scent is sweet and heavy, so if you plan to wear in warmer months, go easy on the trigger. It really projects and lasts all day.
23rd July, 2018

Coach Leatherware No. 01 by Coach

Stardate 20180822:

To me this is a cousin of vintage Fahrenheit with some boot polish in addition to the normal petrol.
The leathery aspect comes from the boot polish.
Good stuff.
23rd July, 2018

Aoud Café by Mancera

Similar to Black Prestigium but less powdery-sweetness; more of a sweet-smoked-wood thing. Only a flash of peach upon first application, then Poof! It was gone. Lots of coffee and wood notes here. It reminds me, at times of Ouzo. This is loud. A little goes a long way.


I give this 4/5 stars.
22nd July, 2018

Vaporocindro by January Scent Project

This starts out pretty fine. I dig the lilac, green leaves, and apple, although a little more apple would have been better. The top moves into the middle notes smoothly, with the spicy smokiness of turmeric and pepper. I can't quite discern any narcissus note individually. Perhaps it's smashed into everything else. The base begins to show towards, the end of the middle. The mahogany, cumin, coffee notes made me smile. The oud sort of erased that smile. I don't think the oud and sandalwood belong here. When all that is left is the base, this becomes just ordinary IMO. Yet another "artistic" scent from this house so I'll give it 3 stars. It isn't one I would wear often.
22nd July, 2018

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens

Marvelous, this is! It opened with a blast-note of something akin to gardenia; then, labdanum, as the jasmine took over. Jasmine wavered between sugary sweet, then flowers past their prime - as though ruined by rain with rot, developing. The jasmine seems to waver between sweet and sour for quite some time. Later I smelled a grape soda accord. I drink a lot of grape soda so, I know this well. Much later the jasmine tames as a musk appears, with another feel of something reminding me of roasted oats, hay, or bran flakes.

I am glad I have had the opportunity to try Sarrasins. It is everything and more, as stated from the opinions and viewpoints of its devotees. I only wish I'd discovered this years before - I definitely would have a jar of this in my wardrobe.
22nd July, 2018

Replica Beach Walk by Martin Margiela

This reminds me of suntan lotion. It has a very brief opening of bergamot and pink pepper. This perfume is dominated by ylang ylang and coconut. Skin scent base of musk and cedar.

I particularly enjoy the ylang ylang in this, as I have been in search of this note to feature prominently in a fragrance, in something other than a soliflore.

Overall not a swooner but, it has its place in the wearable, everyday fragrance category.
22nd July, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tradition by John Baillie

Woods and tobacco are the main element in this creation. The woods are rich, with sandal and touches of cedar. The tobacco note emerges more as a pipe tobacco; rich and intense.

There are other components interspersed here. Initially touches of bergamot in the background, and towards the end the tobacco sweetens with occasional hints of orris.

I get moderate sillage, brilliant projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A beautiful and indeed traditional autumn mixture, rich and satisfying. It might lack a bit of variety in its development, but it is complex enough to remain interesting throughout. 3.75/5.
22nd July, 2018

Ryder by Abercrombie & Fitch

Sweet, light and woody. Reminds me of a lighter version of a synthetic sandalwood scent from Escentric Molecules.

Very unisex and versatile. A great dumb reach for many occasions. I think that’s the big flaw for me that it’s too generic and doesn’t make a decision about who or what it wants to be. But do sample because it may be absolutely perfect for someone else. Definitely smells pleasant enough and performs pretty well.

Projection is just average but longevity lasts all workday.
22nd July, 2018
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I'mperfect by Avon

Avon I'mperfect is really quite the lark in the 2000's "Renaissance Overreach" period of the house, where under CEO Andrea Jung, they would rotate in and out unprecedented numbers of fragrances, branching into new lines, markets, and products, before running up a tab that crushed them financially. Some of their greatest, albeit least-known and shortest-lived fragrances would come from this period (with some of my personal favorites with production spans under a year), and I'mperfect is one such creation. Simply put, Avon I'mperfect is the unisex fragrance that almost was, and I say almost because it looks and smells unisex from the name and asymmetrical striped bottle, thanks to the citrus-lead dusty white floral ambiance, but was marketed only in the men's portion of the Avon catalog. It's funny to see listings of old stock on eBay go both under men's and women's fragrance headings, which is a testament to it's unisex design, but I have a feeling that Avon was just too "good ol' fashioned American conservative values" minded to market anything as unisex, even in the 2000's under a progressive spendthrift CEO like Jung. What's more amazing is the composition here was mirrored very closely by Calvin Klein cK All (2017) almost 15 years later and that scent is undoubtedly unisex. The base of I'mperfect does veer masculine at the end (but so do several "unisex" cK Series scents as well), and suffers from typical Avon performance in regards to projection, but is rather quite nice. Because it was made to be sold to men, I'mperfect does have an aftershave component, which makes it perhaps the only unisex-smelling scent to do so, even if it is a creme balm and not a splash.

Avon I'mperfect opens with manadarin just like cK All, but adds in a bit of citron and juniper. The top doesn't last long as the middle of orange blossom and cascalone come in, which is an older and very similar molecule to the custom "paradisone" found in cK All. Parallels end with the top and middle, as these are still 13 years worth of perfuming chemistry advancements apart from each other. The base of I'mperfect goes much sweeter, meatier, and woodsy than cK All, with Iso E Super, tarragon, a slightly more vanillic version of classic Avon amber, oakmoss, and musk. In fact, the biggest thing that separates Avon I'mperfect from Calvin Klein cK All is the inclusion of real oakmoss in the base, which regardless of everything else, makes I'mperfect actually the superior fragrance, since that buttery finish slides up next to amber and tarragon, allowing us to forgive the scratchy Iso E Super woods display. There's even a bit of a phantom tea note here that's interesting. The base definitely shines through on skin, but if you enjoy the dusty citrus white floral top and middle, just spray on shirt, effectively layering the scent with itself as you'll get the top all day on clothes, and the base all day on skin. Avon I'mperfect also has the convenience of being a very transparent scent, which allows you to layer it on top beefier moss-based aftershaves or richer gourmands for a dynamic twist, almost like layering an eau de cologne with something heavier; you definitely can't do THAT with a cK One fragrance. Avon I'mperfect is light, airy, with a surprisingly muscular base compared to other unisex fragrances but then again, it technically ISN'T one, is it? I'mperfect was one of the earlier Eau de Toilettes marketed to men in the 2000's, so longevity is respectable at about 6 hours on skin, longer on shirt.

It's rare that Avon ever does anything ahead of it's time, although it had done just that with a few proto-aquatic masculines throughout the 50s, 60's, and 70's, or aromatic fougères that get called copies of later designers (because Avon always copies everyone else...), so seeing them make a fragrance that utilizes a style which would come into vogue as unisex well over a decade beforehand is unsurprising to folks who know their Avon history. The real question here is what followed sheer coincidence, or did Harry Freemont cannibalize his own work when teaming with Albert Morillas to make cK All? Freemont isn't listed as the nose for I'mperfect, as Avon tended not to list their perfumers most of the time back then, but he did notably work with Avon in the 2000's, so it's probable that he worked on this. The nearly identical top and middle between Avon I'mperfect and Calvin Klein cK All is too obvious to ignore, despite the 13 year gap. I'll leave the sleuthing to the professionals here, but that's my two cents. I'mperfect varies wildly in price in the aftermarket from single-digit to designer MSRP, so shop carefully if you're looking to try it. I'mperfect is just a bright, pleasant, crisp, and lightly-sweet scent with a woodsy moss dusting in the base, suitable in summer for a person of any gender, just sadly way ahead of it's time and thus discontinued. You can substitute with cK All if you want, but that one is too dusty and harsh for colder climates, whilst Avon I'mperfect is nearly year-round perfect for casual use.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 22nd July, 2018)

Ellwood by Abercrombie & Fitch

A very light, modern unisex fragrance, reminds me of Santal 33 or offerings from Juliet has a Gun. Just kinda in the same ballpark.

It's very light and has a hairspray smell to it. Leans feminine to me.
21st July, 2018 (last edited: 22nd July, 2018)

Nankun Kodō by Sultan Pasha

The overall impression reminds of japanese incense with an addition of dense spice for a spice woods scent to my nose. Cypress woods enhanced by patchouli and slightest oud are the grounding base. Sueded texture from Ambrette and Musk (Ambretolide) rest on top of the woods, while the spice blend adds a raw, grainy spice bin aroma that floats on top of the wood base and never fully merges with the woods. Spices of fenugreek, cumin, star anise, cardamom, clove, allspice mingle in the mixed blend. A characteristic of viscosity of oil as a carrier is the unwillingness to blend and merge all parts easily. So, when the nose leans in to smell Nankun Kodo, I smell the spices as if they were sprinkled on top of the wood resin oils. Lacks seamless absorption of the parts, but like japanese incense this has that sharp resinous pitch that is very nice. The longevity is a few hours if applied thinly with one swipe, longer if applied with two swipes. Rated - 7/10.
21st July, 2018

Pure Incense by Sultan Pasha

This incense is similar to Norma Kamali Incense is the opinion of the maker. My Impression: A mild well balanced incense, that is milder and lighter than Norma Kamali, but as good maybe better. incense. Slight resinous wooded peaks rise up over a mellow mild toned frankincense and labdanum core. The copal lightens the incense flavor a bit here. A very pleasant incense scent rated - 7/10.
21st July, 2018

Incense Royale by Sultan Pasha

This is a wonderfully complete incense aroma. Well blended and smoothe with few inconsistencies. The Cambodian oud is warm, noticeable and delicately enhanced by cedar wood, copaibha, spikenard resins and warmed andnsolified with opoponax, vanilla, and labdanum an appropriate amber base to this warm incense blend. Overall the feel of Incense Royale is warm medium toned incense with surprising depth and presence. Very nice. As incense goes I rate this one 8/10. The only weakness is it does not last long - put on more I think.
21st July, 2018

Âme Sombre G1 by Sultan Pasha

The opening rose otto with jagged peaks of saffron takes off and soars. The radiance and lightness of rose otto with the sharp edge that saffron imparts is a striking opening. A light undercurrent of frankincense adds thickness to the rose scent, jasmin adds to the lyrical lightness in the heart. All of this dancing song of rose and saffron is underwritten by very dry negative space of woods with labdanum, hyrax, tobacco and vanilla that is very soft and dry as to almost escape notice during the first hours, but later this soft mellow base takes center stage and becomes the scent with the rose saffron still in background as a distant memory. This is a very fine, composed evolving perfume with a nice balance of opposing directions that begins sharply with soaring rose and soon becomes a comfortable nest of dry musky leaf and woods. Rating: 7.5/10.
21st July, 2018

Thebes G1 by Sultan Pasha

This finely blended oil is the scent of wisdom and time. Dry wood, dust and mixed grasses, old leather and human skin are details of Thebes G1. I would summarize the scent as a dusty dry leather musk. The dryness has tones of old hay and earthy vetiver. The leather smells of old skin, well worn hides, then the vetiver and hay scent in the background for a reminiscence of Muscs Koublai Khan only lighter, drier. The heart notes reveal the musk that is one of the best smelling musks I have worn. Lighter than MKK while rose adds a slight radiance to the decaying dryness of old leather - uplifting from the rare rose oil. For me, this is easily one of the best musk fragrances I’ve smelled. Rated: 8.5/10.
21st July, 2018

Curve Chill for Women by Liz Claiborne

Peony Water
(Acqua di Peonia)
2006

Laurent Le Guernec
Loc Dong, and Jean-Marc Chaillan
IFF, NY

"Sir, no pictures, please."
The museum docent said
Professionally.

"Sorry," I told her.
"The peonies and water
I swear - they're moving!"

"We get that a lot.
Look closely at the flowers
They're also roses."

That was when I saw
Interfloral beauty as
Half a methyl group

Statistically.
"Can I get a print of this?"
I asked stupidly.

"They're in the gift shop."
That is how I ended up
In Marshall's buying

Curve Chill for Women
Told somewhat in reverse and
Leaving out Chandler.
21st July, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Burberry Sport for Men by Burberry

Ginger with fresh citrus - touches of lemon combined with grapefruit with a slightly grassy sideline - make the opening phase pleasant affair. Whiffs of a marine sea breeze impression lead into the drydown, where the ginger is combined with touches of a juniper and cranberry fruitiness.

The base displays woodsy characteristics, but it is mainly grounded in a white musk impression.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice opening of this summery creation, but the subsequent development is a tad too synthetically generic. 2.75/5.
21st July, 2018

Aqua Regia by Al Kimiya

This fragrance smells nothing like the top notes in its fragrance tree. It smells more like there is apricot and other fruits instead of rose. I also don't detect any oud. This a well blended fragrance that will last and last! A great offering for spring and summer that won't disappoint. the best part of this scent is the blending of vetiver/eucalyptus with the fruit notes. Well done!!
21st July, 2018

Eryo Blue by Yves Rocher

A sort of icy kind of Cool Water finally light, inoffensive, crisp and metallic. Boring and ozonic.
21st July, 2018

Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather by Acqua di Parma

I didn't have high expectations from Acqua di Parma Colonia Leather, but it is indeed a nice leather fragrance, modern and sleek. No marks for originality, as it is very similar to Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather; so much so that having both is perhaps redundant. However, it doesn't have the fruity aspect of Tuscan Leather, and is instead citrusy. Colonia Leather is largely defined by a linear leather accord, smelling similar to brand new leather shoes, rich and dark but also with a nice suede aspect. There is an ashy element to the accord, especially in the beginning and mid phases, but it mellows down after a couple of hours. While unoriginal, given Tuscan Leather and the plethora of 'smellalikes', Colonia Leather is quite well balanced and edited, which shows the expertise of the perfumer.

Colonia Leather has good sillage and duration on my skin based on a moderate application. I am surprised to discover that it wears very well on summer days, and sillage is perhaps even better. If you can manage it without overbearing, this could be the leather counterpart to the summery suedes like Cuiron and Daim Blond. Leather is often an abstraction in perfumery, and Colonia Leather isn't abstract. It is not as refined as Cuir Cannage, Cuir d'Ange, Cuir de Russie or Cuir Ottoman, and it is not as complex as Cuir Mauresque or M. Whether one likes Colonia Leather (or Tuscan Leather, for that matter) depends on whether one likes or dislikes this principal smoky accord of leather. I happen to like it quite a bit.


3.5/5
21st July, 2018

Open by Roger & Gallet

Roger & Gallet are perhaps best known as the pair who in 1862 bought the Paris perfume factory and business away from Jean-Marie Joseph Farina, great-great grandnephew of Giovanni Maria Farina, inventor of Eau de Cologne. In another lawsuit claiming use of the Farina family name (the first coming from Wilheim Mülhens of 4711 fame), Roger & Gallet successfully walked away with the Jean-Marie Farina name but not the whole shebang, producing his line of colognes henceforth. Fast forward about a century or so and the Roger & Gallet brand remains a French house nearly on the same level of antiquity as Guerlain, but also one that moved forward with modern designs far sooner. R&G (as they're known by fans) entered the 80's male powerhouse segment strongly with L'Homme (1982), being a soapy aromatic fougère like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme (1973) but with a more intense herbal kick; the stuff wasn't groundbreaking, but solid nonetheless. Open (1985), by contrast, headed in a new direction with a smoky vetiver opening and tobacco undertones pinned by bergamot, lavender, and patchouli. People versed in vintage masculines compare Open to Jacomo de Jacomo (1980), but I find it more in line with the later Aramis Havana (1993), just with a heavier vetiver overlay and less booze; Open is less Cuba Libre and more Cohiba. Of particular interest is the odd bottle with plastic shoulder and off-center spray cap, making this an easy dumb grab because of how much it stands out in a wardrobe of mostly symmetrical bottles.

Open um... well... er... opens with that smoky vetiver right away but the tobacco in the base doesn't take too long to show thanks to it's synergy with the bergamot top. Amalfi lemon from L'Homme makes a return as well, and lavender keeps it all from being too spiky. Sage, thyme, and a small boozy note make an appearance in the middle, which when combined with the vetiver and tobacco in base, set up the personality of the wear through much of it's duration. Some also cite Francesco Smalto Pour Homme (1987) as a close parable, but that one lacks the tobacco and goes into far soapier and more lavender-forward directions, so I don't see much resemblance. The base is obviously tobacco, patchouli, and vetiver, but it's a pipe tobacco more similar to Ted Lapidus Pour Homme (1978) than Aramis Havana, with the smoky vetiver making it feel "recently enjoyed" like when you catch whiffs of somebody's pipe in the outside air. Lavender from the top helps keep this clean however, and the aforementioned patchouli coupled with oakmoss round it out to hold on skin, but otherwise they don't get in the way. The whole thing just smells like a bridge between the early 80's and mid 90's in the way it employes the tobacco, with the "smokeroom" aspects of the former mixing with the boozy and fresh aspects of the latter. Open is a fascinating scent to be sure, and there isn't much like it. I'd say this plays well enough as an evening scent due to the smoke but also works in more casual office settings, with plenty of 80's power and longevity to go the day.

I feel the next link in the evolutionary chain is Montana Parfum D'Homme (1989), which adds a ton more oakmoss in favor over the vetiver, removing most of the boozy note until Havana brought it back and sweetened the tobacco. You can almost see how this idea played hopscotch from one house to the next over the years, but among all these scents that I've tried, Roger & Gallet Open seems to have the most perfect balance (sorry Havana, I know you're a fan favorite). Open is just a really interesting "missing link" between early 80's masculine swagger tobacco scents and the brighter, lighter, more leafy tobacco scents to come, which makes sense since it was released smack dab in the middle of 1985. One thing that perplexes me is the meaning of the name "Open", because the scent does not imply wide open spaces or any other kind of outdoorsy vibe. Roger & Gallet doesn't see much distribution in the US, yet this scent floods the market here, and is the only one that kept it's introductory bottle design rather than be swaddled away in a homogeneous "house bottle" design like the others, for what it's worth. Fans of smoky vetiver and tobacco should chomp at the bit for this, especially at the low prices it carries, and is the perfect example of modern style and traditional craftsmanship. I also love how expensive this smells versus how much it actually costs, punching well above it's weight against modern niche scents like Creed Aventus (2010) and Mancera Cedrat Boise (2011). Very well done.
20th July, 2018

Bois d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

Fruity with a nice anisic note similar to that found in Eau Hadrien and Nuit Etoile. The type of fruitiness somewhat recalls Yvresse. Merest hint of cumin maybe. I don't know what they mean by ivy in the heart note, some type of bitter green base maybe as there is no natural extract of ivy that I know of but I can't smell anything green about it. Drydown is less interesting with a spicy and balsamic benzoin character. I can't say who supplies the fragrance but overall there is something of Robertet about it, which is about the highest compliment one could give. Recommended.
20th July, 2018

Insensé by Givenchy

This is nice. It almost smells too familiar. To me, it smells like an Abercrombie and Fitch (A&F) store. I believe it was a concentrated version of A&F Fierce that they used to scent their shops. I feel like Chanel's Platinum Egoiste and Bleu de Chanel also capture some of that A&F smell, but then I don't smell any overlap between Insense and the Chanels.

Aside from the memory of A&F, this strikes me as a floral frankincense. It has a unisex, or even metro-sexual feel.

It also reminds me of lotion, maybe sunscreen.

I'm giving this a thumbs up. I think is smells nice and I like it. I could wear it and enjoy it. But it doesn't rise to the level of something I would want to buy. For Givenchy, Gentleman and Monsieur de Givenchy are a couple I have in my collection, but this one and Xeryus are ones that I don't like quite as much.
20th July, 2018

Ma Liberté by Jean Patou

I do think Ma Liberte smells similar to Patou Pour Homme Prive. They both strike me as unisex or even feminine-leaning. I'm finding them similar in the same way I find Egoiste similar to Egoiste Concentree, Dior Homme similar to Dior Homme Intense, and Antaeus similar to Antaeus Sport. I think I could usually tell them apart, but they're not so different that I necessarily have a strong preference.

Another fragrance I find similar to this is the first version of Parfum d'Habit (1988) by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, in the red bottle with argyle stripes.
20th July, 2018

Tuscan Scent White Mimosa by Salvatore Ferragamo

Awesome stuff. You can wear this alk year round. Take dior homme intense and subtract iris and add mimosa and boom, a great concoction.its not a gamble, purchase a bottle
20th July, 2018
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