Latest Perfume Reviews

Polo Modern Reserve by Ralph Lauren

The freshish, slightly ozonic opening soon takes on a slightly green undertone; the latter being undelined by a slightly juniper-berry boozy characteristic.

The drydown turns a bit sweetish-spicy with cardamom and a nonspecific woodsy tilt, and at a later stage a very soft patchouli develops that lasts right until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

Less impressive than the original Polo, more generic but with a good performance - overall this is not bad but does not make the cut to achieve a positive score. 2.75/5.

Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

Tsar is an honest, good fougere, the likes of which are disappearing one by one these days. There's the traditional bergamot-lavender-oakmoss structure, but Tsar distinguishes itself with an array of fresh, green notes that are slightly grassy-coniferous than herbal. The bright, vivid opening of bergamot and lavender, tinged with neroli, leads to an aromatic phase that persists over a few hours. It is fresh, delightfully reminiscent of soap, yet retains a surprising crisp dryness. The oakmoss is discernible, though somewhat toned down, and together with patchouli and woods comprise an abstract accord that concludes the final transformation, where the fresh green aspects are still retained. It seems to have very little leathery aspect, if any. Tsar has an appreciable duration of about seven hours and a persistent gentlemanly sillage.

Tsar's neighbours could be Jazz (less green, more abstract and complex), Duc de Vervins (less fresh, more leathery) and Esencia (more woody and coniferous). Tsar could be a classic white shirt fragrance, though personally its charms are best experienced at leisure. I tend to think of Tsar as uplifting, uncomplicated, handsome, authentic, wholesome, more traditional than conservative, and a wardrobe staple for the discerning noses.

4/5

Superstitious by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Genre: Floral

I’ve taken my time reviewing Superstitious. It’s a big, ambitious fragrance by a prodigiously talented nose, and I’ve felt the need to wear it several times over a period of weeks in order to acquaint myself with it sufficiently for an accurate description and a fair assessment. In overall style, Superstitious is a great, big aldehydic floral composition, the likes of which has not been done often since the 1970s or 1980s – maybe even the 1950s. It opens with a powerful blast of aldehydes, which resemble nothing so much as hairspray. These are quickly followed by an intense peach note. Next up are a potent rose and jasmine, and the four elements persist and combine in an angular, yet rich fruity/aldehydic floral accord of tremendous power and persistence. This central floral accord has underpinnings of vetiver, patchouli, and cinnamon, which together add a spicy-woody depth to the overall olfactory profile. The emphasis here is on "angular." If peach, aldehydes, rose, and jasmine have you thinking of Chanel No. 5, you're on the wrong track. The aldehydes Ropion employs here are not the soft, fuzzy variety. They have instead a crisp, effervescent olfactory texture, more akin to champagne bubbles than to peach fuzz.

While unmistakably modern in its daring overdose of snappy aldehydes, Superstitious can also feel decidedly retro in its sheer heft. It has the presence of a 1980s classic such as Knowing or Beautiful, and a structure, with its balanced blend of synthetics and naturals, that is classicizing in Ropion’s best manner. There’s an overall edginess to the composition, however, that keeps Superstitious from feeling dated.

All that said, Superstitious is a fragrance I can admire more than love. Partially, I have a hard time with how darn intrusive the stuff is. It practically enters the room moments before I do, and lingers a good ten minutes once I’ve left. There’s also something chemically abrasive to my nose about the drydown that I just can’t quite abide by, no matter how I try. Oh, and did I mention that Superstitious is powerful? This fragrance, in eau de parfum concentration, is every bit the equal of Giorgio, Poison, Opium, or Samsara, and I’ve yet to manage applying it lightly enough for an effect that reads less than a 9 on the Richter scale. I expect that many will love this scent, and that just as many will loathe it. Hey, at least it isn’t boring.

Deseo for Men by Jennifer Lopez

Like a chipped stone tool,
Fruity, 'baccy, synthy, fresh,
Thoroughly disco.

Cabaret Homme by Grès

Stardate 20170817:

If you ever wanted a perfume equivalent of video clip that goes through masculines of late 20th century, look no further.
It has all Drakkar Noir, Cool Water, PRPH , Rive Gauche PH among others.
You get them at different phases of development. I have no idea why it was discontinued as it is bound to have something that pleases you.
Oh well. Get it while it is still available for cheap.

Prada Olfactories : Miracle of the Rose by Prada

Stardate 20170817:

A rose is great floral. It is a bit too sweet and it needs to be tempered with something that is earthy. Traditionally it has been Oud, Patchouly, spices.
This is a modern take on rose centric fragrance and the main counterbalance is provided by a plummy tobacco accord. The tobacco accord is very similar to Tom Ford's Tobacco Oud.
Development could be better but that is too much to expect these days.
All in all a good fragrance.

Cuir X by La Parfumerie Moderne

Stardate 20170817:

A good modern leather. A leather that smells like real leather. Nothing like BelAmi or K10.
It has similarities to Cuir Ottoman but is less oriental. In later phases it reminds me of Maxims but is much better than Maxims (which I think is over hyped)
The Saffron and Vanilla/Tonka rounds it out well.
A great blended fragrance. A rarity these days

A*Men Ultra Zest by Thierry Mugler

It was a bit surprising to see a flanker of the rather heavy, sweet and intense A*Men promising an ultra-zesty version. Imagine YSL Opium announcing that they will release a flanker called Opium Eau d'Orange Verte. Still, the top notes of Ultra Zest do the name some justice: an orangey-and-mandarin citrus opening, with touches of ginger and a minty freshness rounding it off. Not a revolutionary set of top notes, but well made in the TM tradition.

The drydown looses the freshness of the opening notes after a while and replaces it with a sweeter mix of a spicy cinnamon with a soft patchouli. In the base the trademark TM vanilla kicks in and ensures that we end up in the well-known A*Men comfort zone of sweet warmth.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity, with the last couple of hours being very close to my skin.

As initially mentioned, the conceptual inconsistency between the original and this spring flanker are not easy to reconcile. TM resolved this conundrum by splitting it into two distinct phases: the zesty start - a bit enhanced with some A*Men intensity that unfortunately results in some attenuation of the zesty component that belies its name - and a second phase more like the original A*Men in character.

Overall, it is neither fish nor flesh, but still, if it was not for the disappointing performance it might just have made a positive score. 2.75/5.

Spicebomb Extreme by Viktor & Rolf

Extremism in
Defense of beauty is so
Spice. Wood. Fig. Saffron.

masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Genre: Fougère

Masculin Pluriel is a straightforward lavender-heavy fougère composition that dries down to a blend of patchouli and clean musk. There’s nothing complex or adventurous here, but there’s nothing to offend, either, and the lavender smells of quality. Still, I don’t find anything in Masculin Pluriel that would make me abandon, say, Caron pour un Homme or Vero Kern’s Kiki when I’m in the mood for lavender. Then of course, for a really interesting lavender, there's always Antonio Gardoni's remarkable MEM. But that's another, much longer, review...

Essences Insensées 2016 (Rose) by Diptyque

This is a rose fragrance from beginning to emended through and through. It opens with a gorgeous centifolia aroma, a rose in full bloom, intense, with just a delightful modicum of natural sweetness. Delicious.

Whilst this is indubitably a soliflore composition, there is still some development occurring with time. The rose becomes a bit lighter, and whiffs of the leaves and the wood of the stems shine through, although this remains a rose blossom creation at heart.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A delightful rose scent for day and nighttime in spring, composed of high-quality ingredients executed well. Whilst a tad linear and lacking vivaciousness and depth at times, it is still a lovely gift for rose lovers. 3.5/5.

Oud Rouge Intense by Fragrance Du Bois

Okay, it smells a bit like Creed's Royal Oud. But it smells deeper and better. It feels less synthetic and more natural for sure. Oud is not prominent, it's more like a musky, wooden, peppery, patchouli fragrance. Oud may contribute to the depth, though, and the oud is well balanced and not of the sharp kind. Rather masculine I would say. I like it.

Sahraa Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

This feels like an amber focused fragrance with soft florals and perhaps some balsamic or incense elements with a round oud in the base. The oud is soft like in the other fragrances of the line, no offensive oud here. Unisex

Immortal Beloved by YS Uzac

This smells like a boozy sweet eggy pudding when it goes on. I await developments...
It's bread and butter pudding! This may not sound like a fine fragrance note but it's delicious. It's not sugary sweet and has a big round booze and woods feeling to it. Good for an evening scent, and not like anything I can think of offhand, but also not in any way odd or edgy. It's very comfortable, and I'd imagine is great in winter.
As it progresses it loses the sweetness and is a dry wood with something of an old book lined study about it.

Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme by Nicolaï

I received a 15 ml. travel size of Patchouli Intense as an extra when I purchased a another 100 ml. Nicolaï. It is a bit strange, but in my opinion, wonderful blend. The ingredients seem to work both with and against each other in a curious development. As soon as the top notes begin to fade and the bay rum note kicks in this transformation begins. This is not the bay leaf that goes into soups and stews, but a much sharper, somewhat camphor-like note usually only found in Bay Rum colognes. In a sense, it's the monkey wrench in the mix, but it also provides a crucial bridge into the dry-down along with the soon-to-follow cinnamon and patchouli. When incense and vanilla make their appearance, the whole show is on the road. The bay oil retains its linch-pin position to the end, but as the top notes fade further away, it sets up a new and equally pleasing impression with the base notes.

Some people my find this a stretch, but I think any fragrance fan can appreciate the artistry and bold stroke that it represents. The more Nicolaï creations I get to know, the more my admiration for the artistry of this house grows. I've visited their Rue de Richelieu store on two different trips to Paris, and their personnel are very kind, knowledgeable, and welcoming. Rumor has it the basement there is the location of their laboratory. Intriguing... As always, it's an advantage to speak French if you can...

Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I do not really enjoy wearing this one. There something interesting in the smell that keeps me from giving it a thumbs down. I imagine I might like the smell coming from someone else. On me, it's too much, and not pleasant. It's sort of a slightly-burnt caramel smell, with something such as the listed balsam fir note mixed in.

Oud Ispahan by Christian Dior

Stardate 20170815:

Synthetic oud with some roses. Well done.
Oud is barnyardy.
Nothing original here but the blending and balance is good. Perhaps a bit too pricey at retail prices.

Velvet Vetiver by Dolce & Gabbana

Nice pleasant vetiver with sweet undertones. The sweetness lends itself to the unisex side of things. The initial 15 minutes or so reminds me of a weaker version of The Goodlife by Davidoff. The dry down is nice clean vetiver. Not overbearing although it does last about 8 hours on me with 2 sprays. Enjoyable? Yes... Overpriced? Yes... Try before you buy. Enjoy!

Eau Plurielle by Diptyque

The opening is as if I find myself transposed into the sunny landscape of green meadows, with the fragrance of freshly cut grass permeating the air most beautifully. Delightful it is indeed, this fresh and bright opening, which, combined with a very young ivy, has added spritzes of citrus added to it at times.

Later on a rose impression is added , but even her the green leafy parts of the rose are in the foreground.

At times as fruity undertone develops, which over time mixes with the woodsy notes that is the hallmark of the later stages of this perfum's development. By now the green freshness of the top notes is toned down considerably, and the woodsy side, with a touch of white musk added in, is dominant until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

The wonderful green freshness of this summer spring scent is a beauty. It reminds me a bit of Geoffrey Beene's Bowling Green, only lighter and a bit more elegant. Whilst it lacks some the crispness and fruitiness of L'Ombre dans l'Eau, the similarity cannot be denied. It is a bit linear at times, but nonetheless is is a lovely addition to the stable of this impressive house. 3.5/5.

Legend by Montblanc

Unlike some other reviewers of Legend, I like the dry down over the opening notes. Silvery, polished, oceanic, ozonic - its a very well done fragrance that is in a similar style as Versace Homme Eau Fraiche or an aquatic version of Bleu de Chanel. In fact if Bleu de Chanel were to make an "Aquatic" version it might smell like this one. Opening notes have a synthetic and over done hard brightness that causes some repulsion, but as the scent progresses the complementary notes leave behind a soft oceanic minty ghost presence that is the common theme woven throughout. Legend becomes a skin scent but a very long lasting skin scent. The body spray is also good and this scent is very appropriate for a water based all over body spray cleanliness.

Back to Black by By Kilian

Fruity honeyed tobacco with a good dose of powder...not bad...I had a decant that I enjoyed wearing , but not enough to invest in any more...in the same ballpark as Tobacco Vanille , Herod , Pure Havane and Naxos...actually probably the closest is So Oud Asmar which I did like enough to grab a full bottle...but as always , sample and let your own nose decide what you like...does get more and more pleasing as it dries down...

al03 by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

Stardate 20170814:

A very nice leathery fragrance. Very similar in style to Puredistance M, BelAmi, Moschino PH.
Not as good but they are trying hard and this one is definitely FBW

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A basic, soft, warm, sweet fragrance; likable, wearable. I'm grateful they kept it simple. It could be worth paying a premium to have a fragrance not trying too hard. The listed notes sound right, mostly benzoin, a nice, simple clean one, typically sweet.

The contrast in my experience with this compared to my typical impressions of this house, niche in general, and ClaireV's experience are striking - I really liked this, as in enough to consider buying a bottle and wearing it often, a rarity for me for any non-vintage fragrance.

The rough synth edge Claire mentions affects me in most modern fragrances, yet I didn't get it from Grand Soir. I got a surprisingly light dose of synthetic woods, a playful splash of the stuff that was undetectable without really sniffing it out on skin, and that was overwhelmed by an unrelenting agreeableness and lightly sweet roundness in beige tones.

Fabien Absolute by Henry Jacques

Absolutely Beautiful Fougere Chypre. Do you remember Loewe pour homme?

Violets make the fragrance sparkly initially along with bergamot and mandarin. Oud & Indian geranium gradually turn the experience woodier but retaining a green herbal quality. The drydown is a woody mossy masculine affair where the fragrance shines like no other due to its top quality ingredients.

I think I have finally found my signature fragrance...

Triple Thumbs up!

Boss Orange by Hugo Boss

This can't get a negative vote. It's only boring, it's not bad. A sweet Cologne-style orange, good for a summer kick. Sillage and longevity are average as well.

Valentina Blush by Valentino

I tried it at my mother's, and I loved it. I want to steal it. It's sweet and powdery, very feminine. It made me think of a soft 'Hypnotic poison'. Vanilla and almond are very present.

Drifter by True Religion

Smells nice and safe. Can't complain about it other than it is generic smelling.

B by Marie Saint Pierre

Too gooey syrup and floral. If you want gourmand, do coffee, maple, vanilla, cinnamon, and leave out the forals

Herb Man by Dame Perfumery

Thumbs up for uniqueness. Smells like cucumbers. There are greens lush, watery. Not my style, but unique

Leather Man by Dame Perfumery

Barely a thumbs up. Doesn't smell bad, just doesn't smell leathery. Ok, leather is suggested, under the green floral. Not sure why all of the neutrals. Thousands of boring bland generic citrus frags out there on Macy's/Sapora's shelves get thumbs up. Frags that smell IDENTICALLY SAFE. I give it a slight thumbs up b/c it smells unique.