Latest Fragrance Reviews, Updated Daily

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    Lovescully's avatar
    Lovescully
    Australia Australia

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    Chrome Bois Precieux by Azzaro

    I was lucky enough to find a 125ml bottle of Chrome Bois Precieux relatively cheaply, so I bought it blind. Of course I was aware of what the original Chrome smelt like, but I was intrigued by the addition of ‘precious woods’ to the original’s formulation (and I liked the bottle too).

    In truth, this doesn’t seem to differ too greatly from the original. It still has that fresh somewhat metallic opening feel about it, but this version does appear to pull back a touch on that famous (or infamous) metallic sourness.

    The fruity sweetness of the lychee combined with just a hint of bitterness from the tea note gives a wonderful lift to the middle phase, but I wished this stage lasted a bit longer!

    I’m not sure what kind of ‘precious woods’ have been added to the base, but I do like the overall effect that this leaves with me. Where the original Chrome has a definite Spring/Summer & soapy/aquatic vibe, Chrome Bois Precieux has a little richer and a deeper more balanced presence. I think it’s suitable for all year round and any occasion use.

    Overall I’d say it’s a great option for those who love the original, but want to try something a touch different. For me, I have to admit that although Chrome wasn’t a ‘must have’ or top 20 in my collection, I always enjoyed it when I chose to wear it. I find that this Chrome Bois Precieux version is more to my taste and will probably get more use than the original.

    Sillage and longevity are on a par with the original version of Chrome.

    20th April, 2014

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Kinski by Escentric Molecules

    Kinski is a unique experimental combination of ozonic and animalic notes (plus oakmoss, cannabis, woods, vetiver, undistinguished floral patterns and furthermore) producing a bold, weirdly gloomy and spicy sort of almost potpourry/hippie aroma (probably conjured in its almost vintage musicality by an association of weed, mouldy floral notes, orange blossoms and saltiness) which anyway finally develops in to a velvety, gassy/spicy and surprisingly glamour hyper modern and somewhat leathery trail. This wave is finally a fantastic hurban modern/dark experiment with a somewhat new age and existentialist background. Daring and avand-garde is the kinski's ability to bind past and modernity and on this sphere it shares similarities with some Histoires de Parfums concontions (Petroleum- a totally different beast anyway- and further). At the beginning I detect by soon pink pepper for sure (a note performing its ostensibly leathery effect throughout) than a following inebriating blast of bergamot, vetiver, floral notes, ozonic notes, mild spices and synthetic weed. The latter exude that sort of cozy "ambiental" feel turned out in a more modern and "orgiastic" key by the experimental implementation of spices and ozonic patterns. Anyway there is an old school basic foundation (provided by a bergamot/patchouli pair, a stuffy floral accord a la Sballo Acampora or Magot Etro linked with animalic notes as castoreum, may be cypriol and cistus plus deep dark oakmoss). The neo-classic chypre soul is anyway overturned in a modern key by a weird implementation of ozonic, spicy and animalic patterns. The contrast of somewhat opposite elements as mouldy resinous weed and spicy ozonic notes elicits that futuristic (leathery and organic in effect) weirdness representing the innovative vibe of this excentric fragrance. The weed keeps to join castoreum and woods in the central denser stage (still peppery, cannabis dominated, vaguely boots polish type and with a lemony influence from bergamot). The final phase appears to me smoother and mossy with hints of vetiver and may be ambergris. The vetiver in particular, linked with bergamot and synthetic suede (aroused in effect by the combination of diverse notes) exudes that typical dark tea type of woody fluidity we are able to spot for sure. I agree with Drseid, Kinski performs the almost stuffy/vintage and esoteric allure of the "dope", but it is a main accord of bergamot, vetiver, pink pepper and castoreum that makes the scent itself with its ostensibly leathery final synthetic spark. I appreciate kinski because of its courage and the innovative message (an hippie/glamour olfactory "oxymoron"), I accept its synthetic soul because it is trendy and pop, agree who with takes it not for groundbreaking but for a slightly "kinky" casual sin to be experienced when the occasion is as weird, unmentionable and unconventional to demand it. Kinski is a little freak and sexy secret to pull out of the hat occasionally as for a sleight of hand.

    20th April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Eau Mohéli by Diptyque

    Fresh, green, floral-fruity opening, with bold peppery notes and a sweet, resinous but still discreet base – light, silky benzoin. The ginger-ylang accord is sparkling and pungent, and that is pretty much the main thing you get – you will like it at first, but as soon as you realise that is what you are going to get for hours... it gets a bit boring. After a while you also get some slight, weird camphor/metallic feel at the very base, I guess some "rounding" fixative unexpectedly popping out. Nice, organic notes of earthty patchouli & vetiver – good vetiver. Mellow musks. Overall this fragrance is green and fresh, but with an interesting sort of narcotic, soothing and meditative feel – even if there is no notes usually associated with this (e.g., incense or "heavy" flowers like narcissus or tuberose). Slight sharp red-bitter fruity notes. Fairly evocative and pleasant, but as I said above... a bit boring after a while. Quite powerful; I could smell this under my sweater. Long-lasting persistence.

    7/10

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

    The lady from Shangai. A feminine powerhouse, resinous, spicy, with pungent clove notes, luscious intoxicating flower accords of rose and narcissus. Dark, sensual base of patchouli, amber, vetiver. Deeply balsamic, even with a hint of menthol if you inspire it with strength. Slightly cloying camphor feel – the aldehydes. Exotic, shady, dense, animalic, even slightly indolic at first. Even its appearance is just great – brown, sticky, dense like a narcotic liquor. After a while it naturally sweetens and lightens a bit, and you get the same scent just brighter with a more aromatic/poudrée/vanillin feel. Not for everyone – and perhaps, even if still gorgeous, just a bit outdated.

    8/10

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Cuir de Russie by Chanel

    Somptuous, soapy, sensual orris-leather masterpiece with a multi-faceted cut – balsamic, dark, floral, chypre, dry, powdery. A quintessential timeless great masterpiece like Mitsouko, Shalimar, Bois des Iles: there's them, then there's everything else. Scents which do not really any douche like me wittering about them. Ironically I agree with Anosmia's review below: I mostly wear it at home too, but not because I find it too feminine, just because I do that with the scents I really love the most - so that I can enjoy them at full power and concentration, and in total relax.

    Mandatory!

    10/10

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Cuir Garamante by MDCI

    A pile of exhausted tires and a bucket of fruits left to burn for an entire summer in the backyard under the sun, that's pretty much the smell you get: sweet and pungent, with a dry, cloying burnt-rubber (norlimbanol) leather note. Simple, sharp, straightforward dry leather with some syrupy-rancid floral notes. Personally I do not find the accord much well done – kind of some dissonance I really don't like, but I am more than happy to admit it is my personal taste and my prudish limits. Gets better after a while, but fun enough, it jumps on the opposite side: it just becomes pleasantly dull and safe. Oudh fans may like this as well, same gloomy rubbery dryness you can find in several (so-called) oudh scents. And also leather aficionados will probably love this (I like leather, but I don't like this). Not my cup of tea and honestly, as I said, not that good anyway.

    5/10

    19 April, 2014

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Seplasia by Bruno Acampora

    After Sballo another majestic floral accord which is in this case more inclined towards a musky/soapy final floral rendition than to a more classically woody chypre massive/rich traditional approach. Seplasia is marvellously floral over a soapy/boise olfactory basement. Violet and musk are in my opinion the standout notes immediately followed by rose, vetiver and ylang-ylang. The aroma is more modern and approachable than in Sballo and the smooth and musky final soapiness enriched by a variegated floral bouquet exudes a sort of iris effect (despite the floral accord is here intense, violet/ylang-ylang orientated and almost fruity in effect- like for a subtle berrish presence). The dry down is incredibly smooth and musky and the musc quality is the proverbial Acampora's one, effectively the best I've experienced among dozens. The final outcome, over a fluidy orange/lemon/violet centered shadowy first stage, is one of best musky floral of the modern perfumery, a superb musk/tamed vetiver/soap with accents of violet, tuberose, soapy/boise rose and ylang-ylang. Proud about this glorious italian brand which pairs and surpass in artistry and quality dozens of more "treated" and exalted brands here on basenotes. Acampora is up with the the best of the best.
    P.S= i've tested extrait and pure essence.

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Cèdre by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    A rose-like, restrained, narcotic poudrée tuberose, cinnamon/eugenol notes, a load of warm musks and amber, a slight refreshing bergamot-like note at first. Syrupy, syrupy and syrupy. Sweet, cozy, soft aromatic woods base, with a subtle oak moss note you get more clearly after a while. Overall a dense, resinous, fruity and – yes – syrupy scent. Think of a fresher, simpler, laid-back version of Arabie. Once the syrup dries, you get a pleasant (barely pleasant) talcum-sweet drydown, fairly light but persistent. Nice, but a bit sticky. Not among my favourites.

    P.S.: no cedar - at all.

    6,5/10

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Iskander by Parfum d'Empire

    Fresh, light blue opening of bergamot and neroli, lavender, round white flowers and spices. Subtle, evernyl-like oak moss base. A fresh, natural, kind of archaic cologne in the typical rich Parfum d'Empire style, still with a rounder softness if compared to other scents of this brand – kind of muskier, and more ambery. And, as any other Parfum d'Empire scents, there is a great complexity, a dense, bold, extraordinarily consistent texture – here lies perhaps the greatest talent of Corticchiato. Moreover you get the oak moss a bit better, as it gets free from some of the head notes, blending with neroli and orange blossom – and interesting, natural, elegant, Mediterranean vibe. Dark and bright at the same time. That oak moss-orange blossoms accord persists quite for a long time, and it can get boring after a while (hence, not among my favourites); still it's a much interesting and well-composed scent, as pretty much any other from this gem house!

    7,5-8/10

    19 April, 2014

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Sballo by Bruno Acampora

    Sballo is an exquisite indolic mossy/floral with an inebriating attractiveness and a floral dark (deliberately "gloomy/baroque") intense "old-school chypre" main accort. Carnal, refined, commanding, "classist". A first touch on the skin and I'm assaulted by a deja vu of my childhood; massive dark floral/animalic holy chypre jumped indeed on mind and several massive aromas of my beloved aunt (some old Versace, Fendi, Ungaro, Roccobarocco, Van Cleef) kept insinuating their "evening tailored dress" in the olfactory memory. The standout "old high borghesia woman" vibe is provided by a rich floral/fruity accord (orange blossoms, violet, geranium, rose) a la Magot over a classic semi-oriental chypre basement represented by woodsy resins, oakmoss, amber and woods. The utterly classy and almost neo-baroque trail is velvety, extremely decadent, slightly burnt sugar/licorice veined (one of the diverse undertones indeed) and "cerabral". The dry down smells about rich ambery sandalwood, dark oakmoss, aristocratic patchouli, violet, hints of resins, faint animalic patterns (cypriol, cistus, castoreum??) and well modulated ripe fruits. We must just underline anyway that Sballo fits perfectly the current era. Despite its classic approach the aroma is never properly stuffy or dated for real , being on the contrary well balanced and perfectly adeguated to a current concept of cultured, classy and self-confident mature woman (intellectual, in jewellery and fur) from the hight districts relevant communities.

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Onda Parfum Extrait by Vero Profumo

    Brown, woody, humid antique-furniture vibes. Peculiar, gloomy and masculine, with a really dry, pungent and earthy feel. Pretty much no counterparts or dissonances - no room for refreshing or sweetening notes, or other classic accords and escamotages. You can smell great, high-quality vetiver and ambergris, with a persistent spicy-sparkling ginger-nutmeg accord. All is quite simple and straightforward, in a minimal and linear style and a great consonance of notes. Honestly I do not feel anything challenging here - or, better say: surely challenging to wear, as for many contemporary fragrances that tend to push forward the boundaries of perfumery - so quite on the thin line between a "smell" and a traditionally-structured perfume... but still, itself, it is surprisingly linear and simple. Beautiful and bright drydown comprising a (dried) orris note, a hint of patchouli, and slight debris of dried fruits and flowers. A bit cloying honestly, and also, a bit boring after a while – but that is my inner taste speaking: personally not my cup of tea, but a great execution with great quality materials.

    8/10

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Derby by Guerlain

    Gorgeous, powerful, perfectly-shaped balsamic opening with woody vetiver notes, jasmin (feels more like lavender for me), cloves/eugenol feel, cistus, patchouli, citrus notes. Really bold, dense, warm and masculine, with sweet floral notes and refreshening citrus accents. Elegant, dry, dark leather base emerging as minutes pass. Great, perfect oriental/chypre in the "timeless classic bibles" family of Jicky, Yatagan, Guerlain's Vetiver – and like these, perfectly wearable today.

    10/10

    19 April, 2014

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Karleidoscope by Lagerfeld

    Since I’m all about violets these days and this is supposed to resemble Balenciaga Paris I bought it blind. The packaging is bonkers. The bottle itself is understated and cool but the cylinder it comes in has a cut out of Karl’s silhouette in the cap and the best part is the little foam silhouette of Karl’s head…I kid you not! I tried to upload pictures to my “blog” here but they kept failing. It’s really worth seeing, maybe Google has some. I’m not even going to talk about the name. I wonder if the Polges cringe when they hear Karl is coming out with a new fragrance of his own heh.

    Now, to the scent. It isn’t very similar to the masterful Balenciaga Paris. Sure, they both have violets but Paris has a real spark, something unique and refreshing. Karleidoscope is definitely a violet centred scent but also it’s quite oily, like Bailman’s Ambre Gris. Not an oily feel on my skin but the scent leaves a thick coating on my senses. In my eyes and nose (if that makes sense). In addition, it is soft, sweet and powdery, a bit herbal but the oiliness kills it for me.

    19 April, 2014

    Primrose's avatar
    Primrose
    United States United States

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    Bullion by Byredo

    This is a wonderfully blended leather and the leather stands out.

    For the price, however, I would compare with PG Cuir d'Iris, which smells similar to my nose.

    19 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Black Amber by Agonist

    The "flow of consciousness" of notes I feel at the opening: amber, incense, lavender, linalol, clove, pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, benzoin, pepper, vanilla, aromatic woods (cedar?)... most of them I don't know if are actually there but that is how the opening smells to me. Basically a sweet and spicy amber, with a pleasant, bold opening. It then slowly becomes a bit more green-balsamic as minutes pass, some herbal feel with a mentholated touch – kind of CdG realm. That's a nice transation. You feel the pungent feel of ambroxan on the base, the cedar and the styrax, and also a tiny bit of dry and a bit plastic patchouli – does not smell great, but it is still fine for the purpose. And that linalool insecticide vibe, subtle but persistent from the very beginning. Frankly this overall smells a bit dull to me – the amber/incense/green notes accord is nice, but also a bit confused and... I don't know, not catchy. Pale, perhaps. Anyway, overall this scent is closer to some green incenses CdG's like Sugi or Zagorsk, more than to amber-based scents. Short persistence (too short for me). Nice, but not worth the price tag for me.

    6,5-7/10

    18 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Déclaration by Cartier

    A really good and distinctive contemporary "eau de cologne" with a much interesting and complex structure. Dozens of notes here, but basically it is a fresh-musky-woody fragrance with several facets to discover according to what you focus on - you may want to feel the rich, sensual floral touch, the woods, the ginger, the citrus, the dried fruits-spicy accord (which, in turn, unfolds up like a fractal in cardamom notes, caraway, pepper, tea, neroli...). Or still - and probably, better - you may just want to feel the overall look of this - a safe, elegant, long-lasting milestone of modern eaux de cologne. An admirable essay of perfumery.

    P.S. my personal feelings? Like for other Ellena's... so perfect it's boring.

    7,5/10

    18 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Moschino Couture! by Moschino

    This is lovely, what I imagine Prada Candy would be like if that scent didn’t hand out cavities. First burst is full of refreshing mandarin then there’s definitely pepper. It dries down to just the right amount of sweet, vanilla, spice and resin - I don’t get much cedar, it all seems like benzoin to me. So creamy and comforting but it’s not boring or bland. Blood-orange is so right, just when you think you know what’s going on, it surprises you. It leaves an oil film on my skin after it dries which is interesting, it must be really concentrated. The only con is it t doesn’t project very far but it lasts for about 4 hours.

    18 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Moschino by Moschino

    I wore CK Obsession as my signature for 2 decades! I don’t tire easily lol but I did, finally. So, my first goal was to find something like Obsession, nothing too far away from my comfort zone but something a bit different and this perfume was the one I purchased, blind based on reviews. It *is* like Obsession only more refined and it’s a lot like Moschino Couture! as well, only with spices. It’s not totally like Obsession though as it lacks cinnamon and has the more refined, less sharp nutmeg and cloves instead and Moschino Moschino has no animalic civet so it’s less dirty, just simply more sophisticated. This scent was my first carnation scent, it is the perfect flower for all the spices to meld with.

    This suits me better now than CK Obsession - I’ve grown out of leather jackets, bad boys, pot and cigarettes (many years past!). It’s time to grow up! I am utterly tired of spicy fragrances today due to my Obsession well, obsession for years but I will come back to them and this will be my go to. Not Opium, not Cinnabar nor Youthdew, but this. It has better than average projection and longevity on my skin. Simply gorgeous.

    18 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Nero by Bruno Acampora

    Bruno Acampora Nero, as for a miracle, has jumped like a king on the stage of my absolute favorite "go to downtown dark venues" fragrances and it is probably among my top five of the general wish list at moment. Well, we exactly know that Bruno Acampora is a glorious italian niche brand which is unfortunately slightly neglected and underrated here on Basenotes. Each one of the marvellous perfumes/oils is artistic, artisanal, pure and appointed with the most natural raw materials of the market. Many worldwide famous characters enjoyed the Acampora's creations back along the times and still nowadays. I'm lucky to own the pure essences and dealing with those is a pure bliss. Bruno Acampora himself is a traveller driven by the obsessive research of emotions and new cultures. What about Nero? Well, Nero is a real bat, elusive and dangerous. This fragrance is indeed hypnotic, "club-prive" type, luxurious, refined, lounge in style, erotic, hurban and dark as the darkest of the nights. Soft sandalwood, citrus, saffron, warm amber, beastly musk, may be violet leaves and dark patchouli represent the soul of this almost sinister fragrance. The top notes appears by soon slightly sparkling and fruity in a dry way (I detect lemon and probably grapefruit). May be secret hints of red/dark fruits from the forest are hidden in the blend together with barely hinted citrus. I suppose some well appointed woodsy/incensey resins and essential oils from the forest could be included in the recipe. The note of sandalwood is central for sure but it is not the arid "woody" sandalwood we find around sometimes but an almost creamy/berrish/violet-suede type one in effect. The intensely woody/oriental and spicy aroma (with a dark undiscernible ambery/resinous subtle spark) conjures me more than vaguely the Black Afgano's type of velvety darkness but while for many the Nasomatto's one fails in quality, balance and excess of gassiness and density this one keeps up and preserves in my opinion measure and absolute raw material value. The aroma is indeed never cloying, un-natural or overly rich (creamy/ gassy) but subtle, elegant and equilibrated with a touch of final suede. This little pearl of the night appears elegant and avand-garde at once (two concepts that not easily correspond). Excellent longevity and projection.

    18 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Bois des Îles by Chanel

    One of my favourite Chanel's ever. Simply marvellous! So great and timeless. I enjoyed Luca Turin's review in his Guide, I feel quite the same. Perfect for men too. Won't try to convince you or describe it – just try it, at least once in your life!

    10/10

    18 April, 2014

    deadidol's avatar
    deadidol


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    Mare by Slumberhouse

    This is probably the most imposing perfume from the line, and the most challenging for me to wear. Yet there’s something utterly compelling about it and the absolutely immersive experience that it offers.

    Mare is sopping wet. It’s the scent of a forest rainstorm—a monsoon in which the aroma of bitter vines, lush vegetation, vitreous leaves are intensified to extraordinary levels. This is no mere hint of undergrowth; you’re entirely subsumed and encompassed by it.

    Technically, Mare is a bouquet of bitter greens and glassy vegetal notes with a subtle camphorous thread running throughout. It’s iris, vetiver, and wet soil (among other things). The scent effect that it replicates can be understood as “petrichor”—a chemical reaction between soil bacteria and ozone. The ozonic effect, here, comes from a watermelon material (don’t worry, it’s not calone or anything even close to that) that provides a green shimmer akin to a salicylate. But what’s most surprising about Mare is that for all its bitter vegetation, it never veers too far into the wild—the composition is entirely managed and modulated with astounding precision. The greens are entirely vivid and vibrating; it’s as if deep and resonant sinusoidal waves are being propelled through a dense rainforest, causing each individual leaf to vibrate at high frequency, shaking scent-infused dew in all directions like a dog shaking water from its fur. Wearing Mare is like having your sense perception go through the roof: everything is over-performing its natural role, yet the frame rate has been slowed down to a snail’s pace so that you can experience it all with microscopic precision.

    It’s not a “pretty” scent, but it doesn’t go out of its way to stress ugliness either. If you’re a fan of perfumes like Irish Silver Mist, Norne, and Sycamore, and you’re strangely drawn to the scent of fresh rain, then this will be unmissable. In the past, I quite disliked it as I tend struggle with overly vegetal and green notes. But as with many scents from the line, I knew that one day it would “click" and make sense, so I bought a bottle and set it aside. After wearing it for the past few days now, it has indeed "clicked.” That doesn’t mean it’s any less challenging, but having moved beyond that initial threshold of difficulty, it’s has totally come to life.

    Mare is atavistic, but it’s also futuristic. It’s the scent that vegetation will produce when humans are no longer around to interfere.

    18 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Eau de Monsieur by Annick Goutal

    Elegant, classic eau de cologne, with the same "dusty" and slightly funereal chypre feel of Encens Flamboyant. I really appreciate the mandarin-floral note here, it is very rich, beautiful, well crafted and sparkling like a diamond cut. I read it's geranium, but has quite an opulent density closer to rose. Just a subtle hint of insecticide (quite recurrent in Goutal's work – I recall feeling it in Duel too). Overall really nice, elegant, close to skin and not much persistent.

    7/10

    18 April, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Sacre du Printemps by YS Uzac

    I could only smell this at Esxence Milano, so my first impressions are based on a not-that-accurate paper test. However this is a green, straightforward, dry, aerial spring-y scent, I did not get all the notes but it's basically an accord of lively pungent lawn grass, herbs and white flowers. The drydown on paper is a gorgeous, delicate and incredibly persistent base of a delicate floral note on vanillin, with just a discreet and subtle balsamic souvenir of grass and herbs (and some aromatic woods I guess). Can not wait to smell it more accurately, I am a fan of Ys Uzac's work - for the moment I appreciate they did not come out with something more trendy, spicy green scents aren't that fashionable these days.

    7,5/10

    18 April, 2014

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

    I bought this blind, I'm intrigued by the bottle lol but also the notes and good and bad reviews all over the place. I ordered L'Agent blind as well and am so incredibly impressed with that scent.

    I didn't really know what expect from Agent Provocateur but rose, I had never smelled saffron before and had no idea it had coriander in it. Just rose and saffron.

    Well, was I surprised at first, I didn't expect coriander - the first blast was straight up mouldy or milidewy...it's the only way I can explain it. Maybe, musty. I thought my bottle was off! But very quickly, it dries down to a powdery, soapy and utterly unique amber, musky, earthy and grungy floral. I'm doused in it right now and it's unique, so compelling and I don't want it to end.

    Editing to add: It ended. :( Within 2 hours it's a skin scent. Maybe that's intended but I prefer my perfumes to last longer. I still love it though and I'll edit again when I can get my husband's reaction to this "sexy" fragrance. "Sexy" in quotes because sexy is subjective.

    Editing to add: My husband found it "spicy and soapy" not sexy at all. He loves it though, no nose wrinkling lol. He's not much for caring about or describing notes but I like to get his opinion. I adore it more on my second all day wearing, it's compelling and ultra feminine, very pretty on the dry down. I was a little worried with the odd opening, the dry down would be bitter or weird but it is not, it's perfectly lovely. I feel pretty wearing it so if that's what a "sexy" fragrance is all about, this is one sexy fragrance. I used about 3x (9) as many sprays today and I got about 4 hours of apparent silage so, don't be afraid to be liberal!

    17 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 20th April, 2014)

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

    Great classic formal fougère, cozy accord of bergamot and lavender on balsamic woods and dry bitter leather. Less raw and bold comparing to other "powerhouses", a bit more elegant and restrained, even though it has some dark, dry, animalic notes crawling underneath – but (lucky for them back then) this was part of the concept of "classic man scent". However surely more "safe" and pleasant comparing to other "savage bombs". A great, timeless and understated masculine fragrance I enjoy to wear home, from times to times.

    9/10

    17 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 19 April, 2014)

    Captain's avatar
    Captain
    Canada Canada

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    Jolie Madame by Pierre Balmain

    Thud, what a dud. First though, why oh why would anyone seriously test a fragrance with violet if you absolutely hate violet? Then, vote it down based on the violet and not the composition or quality as a whole? When you review this way it doesn't give others information other than that you don't like violets...Also, most of us pleebs are not testing "vintage" nor would I want to.

    On the other site with the balloons heh someone said it smells like an Indian bazaar, omg, yes it does! I do not want to smell like an Indian bazaar. There are indistinct wicker and vegetative smells also random muted spices. It can be musty and in this bazaar, the floors haven't been cleaned in awhile so it's a bit dirty and funky...not good dirty, dirty floor dirty. I don't mean to malign bazaars like this and I hope not to offend. I love visiting them, I just don't want to smell like one.

    I bought it blind because I'm on a violet kick but the violet leaf/flower is but an after thought. There's slight tinge but nothing worth mentioning. I'm not afraid of "challenging" scents though most of mine are mainstream because I'm too cheap for niche. I love a good dirty frag like Obsession, or chypre like Paloma Picasso and Mitsouko or leather! I love leather! What I get is Vetiver, Musk, Castoreum, Civet and nothing cuts the funk. There are so many better violet frags for those wanting one and chypres too for that matter.

    17 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 18 April, 2014)

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

    Nice, pleasant, invigorating citrus and bergamot opening on mellow aromatic woods – sandal and cedar, I guess. A talcum, powdery, musky heart of flower petals, a solid but very subtle base of patchouli, vanillin and (synthetic) oak moss, which gets more and more earthy while the first more volatile notes vanish. So basically nothing new, but still decently executed. I also detect the peculiar, piquant-fruity note of pepper and pimiento. What you get after a while is a persistent, sweet, gentle musky drydown with just a tiny hint of dusty earthy notes and a vague feel of powdery white flowers. Bit boring after a while. Frankly the start is better than the evolution, but it's indeed a clear, laid-back, cozy, (overpriced) modern eau de cologne.

    6/10

    17 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 18 April, 2014)

    Colin Maillard's avatar
    Colin Maillard
    Italy Italy

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    Quorum by Antonio Puig

    Rich, dense, raw opening in a perfectly classic fougère style. A textured blend of green balsamic notes on spices and citrus drips, with a rich and natural oak moss note on ambers and bold, resinous aromatic woods. The leather note emerges as minute pass: honest, shady, solid, slightly rubbery and dry. A great, manly, elegant, rich and self-conscious fougère – still not tacky or cloying. With just a hint of that gloomy, sweaty personality many powerhouses had in the 70s/80s (some more elegant and understated fougères like Tsar are like old, classic Mercedes cars; this is rather the fast & noisy Alfetta Spider). Highy wearable today as well. I own a vintage version and I have heard is has subsequently been reformulated on a more green/fresh tone – probably still good, I don't know.

    9/10

    17 April, 2014 (Last Edited: 18 April, 2014)

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Savanè Oud by Torre of Tuscany

    Savane Oud is not your typical medicinal oud. Personally I wouldn't even classify it as a oud. It opens with a blast of dark green notes that, at traces, lean towards the resin/ copal type of aroma. Stark and quite striking. The fragrance introduces then a mix of semi-challenging spices providing a sweaty / arid vibe. A woody-patch base serves as the bone structure.

    Pretty linear but nicely executed. I'm a big fan of Maria Candida Gentile's work and while I dig her Savane Oud, I think it lacks the extra-kick that would have turned it into something really special. In her defense, I've to say that she completely avoided to fall into synth dry-woody territories.

    If you're a fan of stark woody stuff, give this a chance.

    17 April, 2014

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Milano Caffè by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

    Another Dominique Dubrana's convincing performance appointed for the extremely genuine and "fragrant" AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo. Milano Caffè, the first of a series dedicated to several representative italian cities, strikes by soon for its "somewhat O'Driu'esque" extremely measured juxtaposition between aromatic/spicy culinary elements (aromatic herbs, dry spices, green peels) and an amber/cappuccino olfactory basement which never drags the aroma towards the slippery (and dangerous) gourmand fields. The aim is to reproduce over an olfactory path the "milanese aura" dominated by the ubiquitous caffè/cappuccino/cigarette presence and by the spicy whiffs exhaling all around by the ethnic restaurants. The strenght of spices (cloves, pepper and cinnamon under my profane nose) supported by the influence from aromatic herbs and probably green citrus peels are all for long more relevant than the restrained coffee/amber-vanilla/cocoa basic accord. I detect tobacco along the dry down but this characteristic element smells more about dry/spicy tobacco than about a perfumed, smooth and sweet vanillic tobacco itself (despite the listed vanilla, cocoa and cappuccino). This basically dry spicy tobacco is closer to an Hilde Soliani Bell'Antonio's type of tobacco rendition (which is anyway far drier and more ash-tray type) than to a Tobacco Vanille one, despite the rounding performance afforded by a vanilla/cappuccino accord. The dry down smells something in the middle between an "O'Driu'esque" ideal Peety/Linfedele Haiku "encounter" and the Don Corleone's tobacco/vanilla main vibe. The "accomplished" outcome is still woodsy/spicy for sure but finally well rounded, tobacco flavoured, woody, averagely dry (dry spices/tobacco/amber accord) and with a "non-gourmand" subtle cigarette/cappuccino vein never beyond the fences of a strict balance. Is like spices, dry amber, herbal patterns and tobacco could be able to dry, restrict and wisely refrain the rounding balsams influence in a way the aroma appears carnal, spicy and almost organic till the end of the trip. Frankly I'm not able to detect any iris which eventually expresses its influence just with a rounding, powder providing and amalgamating effect. Yes, I detect throughout a subtle, really subtle tenacious green/lemony slightly bitter/aromatic secret spark. Extremely natural (with the finest genuine aromatic raw materials implementation), and distinguished Milano Caffè is another satisfying olfactory issue by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo.

    17 April, 2014

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