Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 140017

Theorema by Fendi

"Tesla," he prodded,
"Tell me more about the sun."
Tesla smiled at that.
12th December, 2017

British Sterling by Dana

British Sterling is a staple scent spoken in the same tone as English Leather or Old Spice, but ultimately classier than them due to the pedigree it once carried. It's interesting whisky flask bottle with the chrome-plated plastic collar had remained unchanged for over 50 years, outside of slight alterations in available sizes and the fanciness of the applied brand label. Sadly, it has fallen very far from this once pedigreed position, as it launched initially in jewelry stores where Speidel sold it's watches and watchbands, with slogans like "Make him a legend in his own time" and "so fine a gift, it's sold in jewelry stores" which lent itself to the perception Speidel already had with it's Twist-O-Flex line of metal wristbands and eventually whole watches. It was even possible to get the metal cap engraved with initials in the beginning, which is pretty cool.
Original Speidel-Textron production runs of British Sterling and the later MEM production pretty much has the same formula, and is the basis for this review.

British Sterling opens with citrus, floral, and green notes, unsurprising for a fougère from the sixties, but what is surprising about British Sterling is the shift away from powdery vanillic bases or heaps of lavender in the heart like most other "green" fougères from the period. Instead, British Sterling takes a more aromatic route, and thus sort of unintentionally acts like a precursor to all the aromatic fougères that would take over in the early 70's. It doesn't have the over-saturation of moss or woods that those scents contain, but it's definitely there. The scent quickly develops from this green opening to some uncharacteristic spices in the heart, stuff like nutmeg and cinnamon typically reserved for oriental fragrances or the much much later gourmands, before ending up in a typical dry down of amber, musk, moss, and sandalwood. There's probably a modicum of coumarin in here too, even if a strait-tonka accord is not detected. It's a fairly complex and round scent that really stood head and shoulders above others in it's class.I can easily see why this scent became so popular in it's halcyon days, and how it would eventually become so mass-market in succeeding decades. It's rich, smooth, slightly herbal, and very dapper compared to some contemporaries, and although it's not sensual enough for romantic duty, it's almost a year-round signature scent.

The original Speidel-Textron formula and the subsequent MEM version is somewhat outmoded in the 21st century for lacking any distinct "freshness" that typically defines an all-season day wear scent for men these days, and it particularly fails in hot weather, but otherwise it's truly of superior stock and rather unique for it's time. New British Sterling, as produced by Dana, has an entirely different vibe, despite having much the same opening structure.The new stuff has become quite shrill with the citrus/floral top dominating most of the scent's life. Whatever stands in for the moss and probably the woods too are also very ozonic, with the spicy heart dialed way down to quicken the transition and thin out the smell. This give the new stuff a chemical-burn personality that makes it better as aftershave than a day scent, since you never really get that smoothness, just lots of green with musk to hold it down amidst all the synthetics. It's not bad, but feels more like a new scent inspired by the original rather than a reformulation.
11th December, 2017 (last edited: 12th December, 2017)

Khôl de Bahreïn by Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777

Aaaaahhh! Semi-sweet florals. Resinous, ambery goodness. Musky, wet balsamic delight. Enchanting, decadent, and addicting.
11th December, 2017
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Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A lady indeed. I got a musty, smoldering spice of a rose in the beginning. If I inhaled deeply I smelled a teeny tiny bit of raspberry. Settling down, it became a dry tinder pile of incense and patchouli. A musky amber finishes this off with nary a nod to benzoin.
11th December, 2017

Mon Guerlain by Guerlain

Mon Guerlain doesn't smell too bad up close. It's not great, but within the context of modern trends in perfumery, it smells typical. It even reminded me slightly of Guerlain Iris Ganache or perhaps even Dior Homme Intense, in its best moments. The smell it was projecting, however, did not work for me, and it was striking me as a scrubber.
11th December, 2017

Mon Exclusif by Guerlain

Something about those
Cherry sugar mothballs on
Hello Kitty's tree.
11th December, 2017

New York for Gentlemen by Brooks Brothers

New York for Gentlemen is an aromatic citrus fragrance, firmly conceived in the classical style. The initial opening is mostly a burst of bergamot; thereafter it moves towards a green aromatic heart and base with mostly vetiver and light mossy woods. It bears a modern touch by significantly toning down the woods, and without having any rough edge. While it is quite generic among traditional classic citrus fragrances, it is also fairly well executed. Reminiscent of Eau Sauvage and sometimes Grey Vetiver, it is smooth, rounded and exhibits rather discreet sillage and average tenacity on skin.

New York for Gentlemen would perhaps not top any list of recommendations, but it is certainly commendable, and presents a good proposition for anyone after a classic aromatic citrus; it is worth seeking out if one is particularly into the style. New York or not, it is certainly gentlemanly.

I am not sure why Brooks Brothers pulled New York for Gentlemen out of the market - I believe it has been discontinued. It surely has become harder to find, and prices appear to have increased threefold. One can approach the venerable Eau Sauvage for a superior replacement, or something from the Acqua di Parma line if potency is a concern.


3/5
11th December, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Vitória Régia : Flor da Noite by L'Occitane

The is in essence a floral composition. Whilst touches of water lily are are present at times - the name is thus not completely misleading - on my skin this is a white floral mix, with muguet, oleander and peony in the forefront. Occasionally the insertion of a lemony note adds some freshness in the early stages.

Later in the drydown a fruity note developers and mixes with the florals. It is a rather nonspecific fruitiness, but whiffs of lychee are detectable at times. The base adds a white musk that is nothing special but quite well constructed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and m four hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring creation with a tropical undertone and some original touches. 3/5.
11th December, 2017

Y by Yves Saint Laurent

1978 Extrait?

This goes on oily and has the skin glisten.

This is a BIG, Feminine Chypre. A plethora of Floral notes.
A blast of Galbanum and Fine Quality Citrus pumps into a dramatic Aldehydic Cloud opening. A powerful Bouquet is sweetened by Honey and countered with the slight acidity of Peach.
Support is provided by an extraordinary composition of Amber,Patch and Civet folded into Golden Benzoin.
Oakmoss creams it with a slight savoury and billow which dimensionalizes this into the dramatic. Powdery goodness in the end.
I am sure that Armani looked back at this while developing his first Feminine.
In Y's brush strokes I can see Yves Saint Laurent signature in the later 1971 Rive Gauche.
Recommended in Vintage, surely.
11th December, 2017

Citrus & Wood by Yardley

Yes, similar to Terre d'Hermes. But much lighter, more a cologne/aftershave than perfume. A shame really, because the citrus is both natural and clean. It just doesn't last long and requires multiple sprays to detect beyond a skin scent. And though the price is quite low and the quality of the scent itself quite high, I just can't in good conscience recommend it for the anemic performance. If you're fine with that, and multiple sprayings then go ahead and purchase. But for me, quite disappointing.
11th December, 2017

Derby by Guerlain

Never quite in style
Derby evades fate, falling
Never out of style

Derby's existence
Not truly violating
Perfume's second law

The first being that
Truth is conserved, the second
That beauty must fade

Seen more beautif'lly
Through Coco's eye: Style remains
While fashion passes

Never truly loved
By the masses, its motion
Never up nor down

Perpetually
Hiding short dinosaur days
From long scrutiny

By some solar cell
Hidden from the accountants
Midst our fragrant love

A toast to Derby
One day to depart from us
Always remembered

In some better place
Truth and beauty both conserved
By rules above ours.
10th December, 2017

Asea by Neil Morris Fragrances

My nose smells grapefruit, lemon, perhaps Neroli, and a bitter orange. In the middle I detect a lily of the valley vibe, with a clean watery, almost cotton note. The base, much later, has a slight wood odor, like driftwood or something. Overall, this is one of the nicer citrus perfumes I've tried - and I'm pretty picky with citrus fragrances.
10th December, 2017

Noir Exquis by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Yes, definitely a holiday, Christmas-y vibe. A wonderful smoky, sweet, nutty gourmand. A winter delight. I adore the chestnut, coffee, maple, and ebony mixture. There is nothing Not to like, about this one!
10th December, 2017
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Oriental Lumpur by Les Néréides

Yet another fragrance of the aromatic style, that I am smitten with. The nutmeg, saffron, and vanilla particularly intrigue me here. Fresh warm spice. Balsamic woodiness and patchouli-loaded. Alluring and mysterious. I could live, with only this perfume, if I had to.
10th December, 2017

Velvet Rope by Apothia

An aromatic, spicy trip down a road of pleasure. I love this blend of juniper, grapefruit, jasmine, and rose! I love the finish of cypress, white musk, patchouli, and a vanilla that is divine. This one of my favorite styles of perfume. Can't get enough of this stuff...
10th December, 2017

X for Men by Clive Christian

As a woman, I could wear this. It's a bright and lively scent. I can smell most of the ingredients. The longevity leaves something to be desired. I swear, after a half an hour, it's gone!

Unless I received a freebie somewhere, I certainly would not seek out any more samples of this house. I have cheap, celebrity-endorsed perfumes, that smell just as good for far less bank.
10th December, 2017

Oud Silk Mood by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Lovely rose, oud, chamomile, and papyrus combination. Lovely but, not overly memorable.
10th December, 2017

Pluie de Soleil / Burst of Summer by Phaedon

A little too sweet for my taste. Still, it is lovely. If you love strawberry and pineapple, this is for you.
10th December, 2017

Honey by Marc Jacobs

A subtle mix of pear, fruit punch, honeysuckle, orange blossom, and honey. The latter being not too overpowering. A gentle scent for Spring or Summer.
10th December, 2017

Arsène Lupin Voyou by Guerlain

A mirthful mingling
Of Derby's world and Thierry's.
Fine fragrant mischief.
10th December, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Apple Blossom by Demeter Fragrance Library

A floral mix - a mainly floral mix is what I get. It is a very homogenous and pleasant mix, but in all its pleasantness it is a tad generic.

Whiffs of apple come and go at times - apple, not apple blossom that is.

Otherwise there is not much further development on my skin.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on me.

A pleasant but quite unoriginal floral spring scent. 2.75/5.
10th December, 2017

Thebes G2 by Sultan Pasha

One can go on for hours describing the wonder of exploring the Sultan's olfactory works of art , so I'm just gonna make this short and sweet...another SP masterpiece....you can spend a whole day immersed in the wonderment of the constant changes and evolution of this creation...intoxicating...smoky...flowery...dark and mysterious...resiny...narcotic and addicting...smoldering...done...get some...
10th December, 2017

California Snow by A Lab on Fire

Opens to my nose as aromatic flowery greenery...standing in the yard of a farm where there's wildflowers and herbs growing and a gentle breeze brings in whiffs of the fields and bales of hay...nothing animalistic smelling of this farm...fresh and invigorating....good aromatherapy...a juice for lovers of the green...another thing about this farm is one certain wonderfull herb they grow...and i'm getting a liitle taste from time to time, like someone behind the barn doing a little bit of toking...a tiny hint of soapiness...this is very enjoyable olfactory experience, but i pass on getting a bottle...not something i feel needs to be added to my wardrobe , but for sure something that I will kick back, dab on the back of my hand and enjoy whiffin while listening to some music or reading...the final touch to this farm scene is some earthy wood....also realized upon taking some deeper inhales is the sheer tapestry of a dark tea fluttering in the background...
10th December, 2017

Perry Ellis Citron by Perry Ellis

A great bitter bergamot opening is followed by a creeping, tempering sweetness brought on by the emerging apple, at which point I get a meyer lemon feel. Sadly, despite the title here, citrus is not to be the star of this show. The pepper and apple together smell extremely similar to Dunhill Custom, but with more going on in the periphery. As the geranium begins to pop out I am reminded of another Dunhill - the signature release from 2003. Eventually the composition is made annoyingly trite by what smells like orris or tonka in the base, though neither are listed, but it is this powdery vanillic dismount which sours me to the whole thing. the first few minutes are delicious, but they certainly are fleeting. Like the rest of the 'colored dot' line of PE scents, Citron is derivative and has a short lifespan, but it is still probably the best of the lot.
If you can find this for cheap it may make a suitable replacement for Eau de Rochas.
10th December, 2017

Perry Ellis Red by Perry Ellis

Every generic and false-smelling aromachemical featured in men's best-sellers over the last decade except (thankfully) for vanilla. It is mercifully weak but terminally boring; kind of sweet, kind of spicy, kind of bitter, ad infinitum. It is the fragrance equivalent of being described as a 'nice guy' when one friend asks another if they are interested in dating you.
10th December, 2017

Perry Ellis Cobalt by Perry Ellis

PE already made 360 Black, so I'm not sure what purpose this is supposed to serve. Gross, cloying almost-vanilla in the vein of original Penguin. Definitely not for me.
10th December, 2017

Perry Ellis Cologne for Men by Perry Ellis

Perry Ellis the Mall Frag. Definitely one for the Abercrombie crowd. I enjoy the fern-like mint and fir duo but could do without the obnoxious and now ubiquitous cardamom and synthetic wood.
10th December, 2017

Dia Man by Amouage

Stardate 20171209:

I have a sample of Dia man. I did not like it. It is thin, weak and meh. Could not understand why people like it.
Then I tried the vintage Khanjar version. And now I know.
It is a masterpiece. Starts a lot like R de Capucci but then veers off to more floral, spicy path. It is very vintage (70-80s) in character and performance ( those who know me will know that this is a compliment).
A shame they reformulated it to green vetiver-cumin mess. Well actually it is not that bad and does get better after and hour or so.

10th December, 2017

English Bluebell by Yardley

Wonderful fruity floral - starts fresh and sweet and ends with a light vanilla and musk dry down. I'm a huge fan of peony and it shines well with the bluebell and peach undertones.

Great longevity and blows Jo Malone's Wild Bluebell out of the water for a fraction of the cost. Highly recommend.
09th December, 2017

April Violets by Yardley

Powdery parma violet scent. Very light, easy to wear. Sweet but not overpoweringly so. I would have enjoyed this in my younger years.
09th December, 2017
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