The old Colony is a pineapple chypre; a syrupy pineapple set against bitter oakmoss, unusual and striking, and clearly from a different time period.
The new version is called "a modern adaption" by Patou. It's no longer a chypre, but a polite fruity floral. It opens with a fresh pineapple, together with a smoky note, it then sweetens slightly, with other sheer fruity notes mixed in, and ends with an sweetish, indistinct musky base.
Not a lot of projection, it stays close to the skin and has decent longevity.
I'm glad they made the pineapple so prominent, and the smoky note added some interest, but after the opening it goes pretty flat. The push-pull elements that made old Colony interesting is missing. In their quest to make Colony elegant and adult, and compatible for a new millennium, they forgot to give it much of a personality.
Sweet and fruity, with mango dominating from start to finish, with some citrus fighting to get noticed. Not much development after it hits the skin, and I get three to four hours longevity. A cheerful and uncomplicated scent, great for summer, worth trying if you are looking for something mango-centric.
The fragrance has a realistic note of black tea, with splashes of lemon and sugar. And that's it. Simple, but enjoyable. As with most oils; not much projection but it lasts for hours and hours.
Top: Rosewater, Orange fruit
Middle: Green Coriander, Curry tree, Masala Chai
Base: Champaca, Patchouli, Amber
It opened with a blast of murky orange blossom that nearly took my head off. 10 minutes later the spicy heart revealed itself and was much more enjoyable. You better like smelling of Indian spices as those are the dominant notes throughout, after the opening has burned off. I thought it was an interesting experiment but in the end it felt a little flat. Has some oomph but I wished it had more complexity.
Faceless and forgettable fruity floral. At this price level I expect more than a facsimile of floral shampoo.
A bit too relentless in its lilac-ness for me, I wish it had more to say. But nevertheless, this is a very nice extrait and if you love lilac you need to try it.
Wonderful gardenia, a reference gardenia to have in your collection to measure all other gardenia fragrances against.
Heavy, ornate and languid. This is an extrait and it wears close to the skin after the initial sparkle and bloom.
A sparkling citrusy fruity-floral that doesn't smell cheap or For Teens Only. Deceptively light but if you overspray it takes on a synthetic edge. It's a nice summer cologne with quite good longevity. Awful bottle though, very cheap looking.
Notes: bergamot, myrtle, lavender, coriander, iris, carnation, tonka bean, cognac, frankincense.
The lavender overwhelms everything else in the beginning but soon calms down and mixes well with the peppery carnation. The iris is powdery/dusty and the incense is sweet and dry.
Utopia smells old-fashioned and introspective and though that's not a bad thing, it feels a little flat. There is no tension, it could use some sparkle in the top or a more interesting base to give it more life.
A blend of lemon, lime and bergamot, anchored by musk. Short-lived, simple and refreshing, smells very natural.
The official notes are: Wood, Warm Spice, Beeswax absolute, Moroccan Clary Sage, Hungarian Tarragon, Corsican Rosemary, Labdanum, Patchouli and Benzoin.
What I get is a green, herbal, honey fragrance that lasts the whole day, with a huge projection the first couple of hours. It all ends very satisfyingly with a warm chypre-like drydown. I can't compare it to anything else as I have never smelled anything like it. Too original and unusual to be a success at the counter, unfortunately, it has now been discontinued.
27th December, 2012 (last edited: 23rd January, 2013)
A spicy, fruity oriental. I like pineapple in fragrances, Colony by Patou is a great pineapple-chypre, and now I've found a nice pineapple-oriental in Le Roy Soleil. This is a likeable and happy fragrance, though it it sweet and and the fruits are borderline overripe. Lots of notes fizzing around fighting for your attention, but the pineapple shines through.
Perfumer: Philippe Romano
pineapple, mandarin orange, apple, bergamot, rosewood, lemon, papaya flower and rhubarb
cyclamen, apricot, carnation, cinnamon, orchid, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and rose
sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, patchouli, musk, vanilla and vetiver
Yes it's sweet but it's not a gourmand; it has a dry sweetness and they've managed to give it some air. I get a lot of coconut, not much fig. Pleasant vanilla drydown. A summery, suntan-lotion-y kind of scent.
It has a dry sandalwood on top, pleasing, realistic sandalwood, but dry, nothing creamy going on here. Soon notes of dry fruits appear; dates, prunes, raisins? They add sweetness and roundness to the scent, but they also take over and dominate completely, where did the sandalwood go?
The fragrance is now highly diffusive to the point of being overbearing, at this point I got a slight headache if I tried to sniff to sniff my arm too closely.
40 minutes in, things have calmed down, the mix of fruits and sandalwood are in balance, I can again smell the dry rasp on the sandalwood, the fruits are hovering but not trying to take over. It stays that way for the rest of the drydown.
Interesting to try, but this is not for me. I like sandalwood to be a little creamier and the push-pull of sandalwood and the sweeter notes was distracting.
This is a rose fragrance, through and through. Where is the oud? Taken as a unisex rose with spicy undertones it's not bad at all, but I came for the oud and was left wanting.
I don't understand the reviews saying this is completely different from Eau Savage EdT. To me, the original notes are clearly present for most of the progression; it's like looking at the original through a piece of dark amber, the structure is intact. The parfum has great longevity and a stealthy but huge projection, go easy on the trigger.
20th July, 2012 (last edited: 09th August, 2012)
A lovely orange blossom fragrance. Jasmine and vanilla are supporting players and keep the orange blossom sweet and non-indolic. Great longevity, huge sillage. I like it a lot but you better love orange blossom if you consider getting it.
Carrot and iris in a festive mix! Thought the combination seems odd it works very well, but you (obviously) have to love the smell of carrot since it's front and centre of the fragrance. For a 100% natural fragrance is has good longevity.
I am testing the parfum, and it's deep, rich, sweet. It's herbal and floral, something slightly mentholated (or peppery?) floats by, then the leather smooths out everything. It looses most of it sillage after about an hour and becomes a skin scent, though the far drydown lasts for many hours. A real treasure, don't miss the opportunity to try it if you like old school chypres.
Edited to add: I've changed my mind after testing it twice: I don't find it to be a typical chypre, on me at least, Lasso is more of a floral leather.
27th June, 2012 (last edited: 19th December, 2012)
Blask has a sparkling, radiant top, and deepens into a warm, sweet, slightly murky, maybe even pungent, heart. It has a wine-y quality, not boozy but more like the the ghost of hearty red wine. It has good projection and last all day.
Though I like it, it is right on the edge of not being wearable. If the red wine "aura" had been a tab more prominent it would have made me queasy, and I can't imagine wearing it in hot weather. It's certainly unique, I can't think of anything to compare it with.
It seems the good people at Lutens got together and said: Guys, we are missing a marked segment, namely the customer who absolutely hates every product in the Lutens line, who has a great disdain for the Lutens signature. We need to satisfy that customer. And that they did.
Froide is a sweet musky scent with a discrete incense hovering over it. Not disastrous by any means. It's pleasant enough, it's office friendly, hangs around all day, doesn't make a statement, doesn't get in your way.
If you thought Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker was just too raunchy for its own good, this is the "proper", sanded-all-the-interesting-bits-off version.
Very monochromatic, it's vetiver front, back, up and down. And little else. It's a little too one-note for me.
It's a little bland, but pleasant enough. I get toasted rice and lime, a touch of vanilla. You could do worse if you are looking for a soothing summer fragrance. It's certainly the most commercial scent I've tried from ELDO, wouldn't be surprised if it sold quite well. I give it a neutral rating for lack of originality and not very good longevity.
The scent has a sparkling lemon opening, fantastically realistic but gone in a flash. The heart feels cold and airy, I get the lemon (still quite bright) and milk, though musk is getting through more and more.
30 minutes in, the musk and milk/custard have the upper hand. It's soft, only slightly foody, not particularly sweet.
It's an interesting experiment, not sure I would recommend it to a citrus lover, since the lemon seems to bow out midway. If you are looking for an airy, "non-food" foody scent, this one might please you.
Te Nero is a simple fragrance with notes black tea and a touch of lemon. It's refreshing but short-lived, perfect for a hot summer day.
Its' Drunken Dzongkha!
Take Dzongka, another scent by Duchaufour, and marinate it in cognac and rum and you've got 1697. The iris fights with the alcohol but neither wins, no one yields, and the different elements never quite come together on my skin. Worth trying if you want a different take on iris, but it's not wholly successful.
Sigh...quite, quite awful on me. The civet stays too dominant and tips over into the smell of urine. I guess it could work if your skin type brings out more of the sweet/tartness of the scent.