Fragrance Reviews by Scentologist

CDG Series 8 Energy C: Lime

Lime notes:
Lime, bergamot, green lemon, water jasmine, rose tea, lily of the valley, musk, cedar, white amber.

The initial burst starts out with a typical lime aroma found in most lime scents. However, CDG Lime quickly departs from this cooling note that many of us enjoy. There is not a lot to analyze here as the musk, cedar, and white amber accord quickly take center stage. I am a huge fan of Comme des Garcons and their use of woods and incense. They are renowned for pulling off unthinkable notes that seem an oddity to create a timeless masterpiece. This is not the case with Lime. In my estimation, cedar does not belong in this composition and tends to roughen the edges a bit. As the refreshing lime almost instantly subsides, I step and try to ascertain the overall picture. If I didn’t know better, I would think I was smelling a lime fizz soda, a creamy key lime pie, or some type of candy but as I mentioned previously, the musk, cedar, and white amber take the stage with cedar being the note that for me, in spite of my liking for this wood, ruins the composition. The longevity if actually decent but wears close to the skin. As a citrus fragrance, I award this a disappointing 2/10.

Monocle Scent One: Hinoki

How does one review the pinnacle of my fragrant journey? Perhaps my review is premature because I simply can’t define how stunning this fragrance is. Here are the official notes:

Cypress, turpentine, camphor, cedar, thyme, pine, Georgian wood, frankincense, moss and vetiver.

This fragrance doesn’t reveal itself through stages of morphologic transitions. It is as if the fragrance is transparent and you can smell all stages at once. I am in no way suggesting Hinoki is linear - - it is far from it. The turpentine and camphor mingles with the woods of cypress and cedar. This creates a mesmerizing tunnel through which the thyme and pine drags the top notes into a vortex where everything is still transparent and clearly represented. The Georgian wood, frankincense, moss, and vetiver is there at the end of the black hole to immediately connect with the stellar masterpiece thus far. If you could imagine a warm hole to be clear and represent this fragrance, it will transport your senses from point A to point B instantaneously without missing a note. Incredible! How does it do this? I don’t know it just does and it works.

I can understand where people are coming from in their review of Hinoki. I do get a slight incense but the type on incense found here is closer to Avignon for its dry and smoky character rather than Kyoto where it is a bit more wet. I also detect a cooling, snow frost note found in Zagorsk which in Hinoki, comes off like a clean musk that is fantastic. I truly thought that nothing would ever be able to surpass my beloved Kyoto but friends, history has just been made. I give this a 100 out of 5 stars. Yes, it really is that good!

It takes the basic design of the original Eau de Cartier and to me, adds top notes of green apple. Oddly enough, the original version seems more green to me, or shall I say a more desireable green. The concentree gets acid and sharp. This combination of sharpness and greeness throws the composition off balance which makes this whole thing acrid. It wants to deliver a slight singe to the nostril hairs. I don't like this rendition and I much prefer the original.

I tend to agree with neutral ratings awarded thus far. The vetiver is not from the root which gives a pungent, eathy aroma as in Guerlain's Vetiver. The vetiver must be taken from the leaves because it is very fresh, clean, and surfactant-like. I would award this a higher rating but as already mentioned, I also feel that the tonka note ruins the fragrance. I wished I could skim off the top notes and just wear that but thats dreaming. 5/10

I wanted to like this from the note description but when I had the chance to sample this, my mental predisposition was not spot on. If you try hard, you can detect a hint of green notes in the beginings of this linear scent. The green notes quickly get smothered out by a dominating factor that reminds me of aged wax. Thats right. If you have ever come across a wax candle that has been sitting around for the past decade and has collected a little dust on it, this is what Amyitis smells like. Unfortunately, this note persists from start to finish. I am inclined to blame it on the caroway and the loads of moss. Perhaps the amber gives it a tinge of dustiness. You might also relate Amyitis with the smell of a dirty cashmere musk. I had to wash this off my wrist as it started to make me feel ill. If you want to smell like you are in a wax museum, go for it. Otherwise, stay far away! My rating is 0/10. I just can't find anything positive about it.

G^4 begins with verbena announcing its arrival. However, the verbena doesn't come to mind at all. Instead, I get an inital burst with heavy remnants of mint. The following suit is floral followed by cedar, vetiver, and musk in the base. This adds woodiness to the green floral. It is fresh and not overpowering. Now that the formal convention of a review is done, lets talk about what this really is. Upon the first waft, I immediately recognized this as a clone of Un Jardin en Mediterranee by Hermes only noticeably inferior. I give this a 3/10 for being fresh and green due to the fact that I love this category. The thumbs down reflects the score I gave it due to its inferior comparison to Un Jardin en Mediterranee and for the shame of cloning the Hermes product.

No 1 opens with a slight "Old World" feel. I agree that the mint and lavender play the major roles in this act. Upon first waft, mint water comes to mind. I say water because it literally conjures emotions of running water due to the EDC concentration. Upon further examination, I realize the lavender yields an earthy quality, and if shaved root bark soaked in water. For me, this note is dischordant and adds a bitter tinge that disrupts the composition and is incongrous with what the fragrance wants to be. The lavender also keeps the mint and bay. The mint is struggling to come out and play but remains reserved as if there is no confidence to socialize. I don't detect any of the other notes off hand. Overall, it smell fresh and good enough but rather fleeting. It would be hard to absorb the purchase price for this EDC. For real stunner however, check out Baraja by Acqua di Biella which is in my opinion, redemption for this house! I give No 1 a 4.5/10 earining it a neutral rating if you round up.

Baraja opens with lemon, citron, and lime. This is a burst of a very fresh "green" smell. It actually evokes to color of green. the middles notes are black currant, peach and a hint of honey. This lends a fresh "air" vibe to the mellow green smell that stills persists in the development while not detecting anything componet from the middle notes in particular. The rich base notes of amber, patchouly, and vetiver support the green composition by adding a bit of depth and character. Vetiver further supports the opening act to add opulence and vibrancy to the green aura while the amber and patchouly only support the vetiver and move it forward. Overall, it is very fresh, very pure, very green, and a fragrance that instantly makes you happy! I understand the conotations to fresh linen but this in no way is the complete picture. This is an instant love for me and when you want to be happy, want to smell clean, want to feel good, this is the perfect choice. Baraja is perfectly blended and is very smooth in operation. One might think it wears close to the skin because you receive gently wafts here and there but, it projects and has sillage in a "civilized" way. A perfect 10/10 and a must have. Your get clean, soapy, depth, and satisfaction. Great job Acqua di Biella!

Encre Noir was love at first whiff. Encre Noir opens up with that bit of "green" from the Hatian Vetiver but you soon notice the licorice yielding a dark, inky, metallic texture that adds depth and mystery to the composition. There is a slight suggestion of spice, but rather it is the earthiness of the Vetiver Bourbon that quickly fades and supports Encre Noir's complexity. The Musk and Cashmere Wood adds sophistication and "Manly" overtones. As a whole, this is indeed a dark, brooding, inky fragrance that has instantly won me over. It is complex, yet smooth. Dark while mysterious. It conjures up several scenarios to mind. A must in any serious wardrobe and a fragrance that can be worn for any occasion and season. Finally, a Lalique that I don't want to be without!

This is the first great offering from this house in many recent years. It is a sublime, woody fragrance. Upon first blast, I smell a cooling cyprus note it seems. It quickly goes into the star note from that great discontinured contradiction by CK. So, fans of that will want to check out this. Although it has its similarity to contradiction, it is unique and better done. This has immediately beome my favorite woody fragrance. It is clean, rugged, and masculine. It is perfect for everyday use and for any occasion. I highly reccommend this fragrance!

The water fruit and violet mingle well to add sparkle to the magnificent basil. The basil is prominent throughout the life of the wearing which is a positive thing. This is the finest basil note that I have come across. It is true to its form and as I noted, is disposed to sparkle and shine brilliantly. As the water fruit and violet make way, the creamy sandalwood from the base starts to take initiative and support the basil. Patchouli does not dominate the dry down as so many other fragrances do. Instead, it adds to the maturity of the sandalwood and is undetectable as a single note. The cedar woods add opulence to the virility of the basil. The lasting power is vigorous and the sillage is among the best to experience. Riverside Drive is an instant classic and not only sits at the helm of Bond but, among other great classics as well. This defines what a classic is and what others ought to be.

Cambodian Aoud is infused with aggar matta oil (Indonesian herbs) and rests with light notes of amber and cumin. I disagree with previous reviews and feel this is an incredible fragrance for a few reasons. The rich bewitching depth of Aoud does dominate but that is what I like about it. Many of us love the rose notes found in some other fragrances but if you want to subtract that note because you are going to the gym, are going to be in the extreme heat, or whatever the reason, then look no further. This fragrance can also serve as a layered freshener if you feel your Aoud has worn off in another Montale fragrance since Steam Aoud is dominated by Aoud. I find the dry down quite lovely. The other notes mingle with Aoud to give a sweet aldehyde waft. I actually prefer this for a fresh fragrance over the Soleil de Capri. It is never cloying and terrific for all the exotic goodness of Aoud!

This is one of the best limes on the market. There is no need to analyze this and get winded here. You simply have fresh uplifting limes. If you don't want to project and are not concerned with longevity, this may be the feel-good fragrance you are looking for. I will agree that it lasts about 3-4 hours.

Ciel announces its glorious arrival with refreshing and cooling bergamot. The lavender takes mingles in the shadows of bergamot while the floral heart develops. The spices namely frankincense, envelops the composition gracefully white a subtle delight never forcing domination of the floral goodness. Ciel is smooth, welcoming, and as fresh as the azure sky and ocean of Dubai. However, when I step back and waft the fragrance to me, I get am image of the green beachfront waters. Dare I say that I smell a green floral fragrance with exceptional quality and appeal? Ciel is far superior to Creed’s Royal Delight which is strikingly similar but inferior. If you love the floral heart and frankincense of Dia but don’t enjoy the essence of baby powder and want something for office, gym, or romantic use, then look no further. Ciel is bright and uplifting. This works in many situations and therefore is one of my all-time favorites. Ciel is a King among Kings!

La Base begins with a strong burst of grapefruit. I find the use of this note in this particular fragrance to be discordant. For me, the wild mint and basil gets bypassed by the bully grapefruit. Thankfully this note subsides in due time. As the la base heads for the dry down, the pine bark makes an appearance but don’t be fooled. I tend to think of pine as a cooling, embracing note. Instead, the dry down is rather warm, heady, and synthetic smelling I do agree. The best part of the journey was the mineral tonic that was experienced in the mid-notes. Overall, I have to give la base two thumbs down for being too synthetic and slightly off-putting.

I remember confessing my sins of omission when a gentle waft of inscense evades the monastary lumen. I categorize this fragrance as a church inscense. It has a slight synthetic feel to it. It is very dry and vastly inferior to kyoto. My sins of omission were neglecting to purchase kyoto much sooner!

As I sit in seiza and meditate, I reflect on the time I spent with sensei walking through the temple in the forests of Japan. The cypress mingles with coffee that is enveloped by one of the best incenses known to man. The act of spraying this on feels like exquisite complicity but is truely the definition of fragrant hedonism. A true holy grail fragrance indeed and will forever connect me with cerebral enounters.

"I say", said the Nobleman from Yorksire, "This smells strikingly similar to B*Men". I replied by saying, "At least it doesn't burn your nostrils and the spice is wearable with smooth amber".

Paul Smith Story is a deep green fragrance. It is his best release yet. It is in the vein of Bvlgari PH and CDG Vetiveru but much, much better. This may sound odd, but there is a note that reminds me of pert shampoo in there for a few minuites. This is excellent from start to finish and would make a nice addition to anyone's wardrobe!

Nothing special here. I've always said this one is too similar to bvlgari PH. Vettiveru is not an earthy vetiver to my nose like guerlain which is a good thing to me. However, there is a new fragrance that beats vettiveru and bvlgari ph in this category of fresh vetivers which is Paul Smith Story. Yes, thats right, if you like vettiveru and bvlgari ph, get Paul Smith Story instead. Got get it!