Reviews by Scentologist

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    Scentologist
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    Thallium by Jacques Evard

    Its a light, pleasant, airy smell will surprising sillage as I can smell it within 30 ft of the mall kiosk. I love the bottle, color of the juice, and spray mechanism. It's scent reflects the juice in that it has a light, fresh smell with vanillic overtones and a fruity underscore thats just everso present. I wanted to get this just to have for novelty sake but would I actually wear it? Possibly but not often enough. It smells very "European" as it were.

    2nd July, 2011.

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    Trefle Pur by Atelier Cologne

    While Oolong Infini is unique and smells great also, Trefle Pur is the star in this lineup. The orange and neroli sparkles in this composition. Cardamom adds a floral component and the moss mingles with violet and musk. The overall feel of this is a light green musk with decent longevity and sillage. Its not a powerhouse by any means but if your looking for something that is dazzling to wear and you've not been satisfied by the likes of other fresh fragrances, give this a go. This is pure sunshine and happiness!

    27th May, 2011.

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    Memoir Man by Amouage

    I've did a 180 on this. The green absinthe in the beginning quickly subsides. The dry down mesmerizes me. The vetiver sparkles with a supporting act of smoky coal embers but never gets cloying or too warm. It is an ethereal aura that surrounds you with feelings of confidence and admiration. The sillage is quite good with this one. I find it more satisfying than Jubilation XXV which tends to induce a headache with me. Memoir Man is very wearable and has become a favorite of mine from this House alongside Epic.

    3rd January, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th January, 2011.)

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    Aventus by Creed

    I do get the immediate blast of pineapple but, its not Dole's. It is not the syrupy sweet pineapple aroma of Doles fruit, it is a high quality pineapple that smells as if it where collected straight from the condensation reaction of sunshine grown pineapples. Not too wet, not too sweet. Much better quality than the pineapple in Bond's Riverside Drive. The pineapple quickly fades into the heart of what seems to be something familiar. It reminds me of a well made Chanel fragrance, perhaps a better version of Allure Sport crossed with Carolina Herrera....something metallic about it. After thinking about it, I know an easy way to describe this fragrance; if you remove the neroli from Creed's Neroli Sauvage and replace it with pineapple and keep the woody base of NS, this is what Aventus smells like....Neroli Sauvage with Neroli removed, pineapple added, and the woody base. Longevity is better with Aventus as well.

    8th December, 2010.

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    Stephen Jones by Stephen Jones

    I finally got a chance to sample this one. At first, I was blown away. What immediately came to mind was cold moon rocks. It does have that space fizziness enveloped around what I would perceive as moon rock. Or, I suppose a dry cold stone rock on earth would be the same. I was really digging it until it developed a little further. I started to warm just a little. Then I was reminded of Magma that has been cooled and blackened on the surface but still red and warm underneath. It was just past this point that it started to get cloying and annoying on me. I appreciate this for the imagination that went in to it but, I don't think it is wearable for me. A neutral rating for its spectacular beginning but not a thumbs up for its horrible dry down.

    24th July, 2010.

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    Voyage d'Hermès by Hermès

    Voyage d'Hermes is simliar in motif as Eau de Cartier. VDH has that clear, translucent citrus opening that is fresh but to my nose, slightly feminine. Whereas EDC has the cedar in the dry down, VDH has a pepper accord coupled with woods and musk. This is definately an exhilarating fragrance and better quality than EDC. Longevity is an issue. It has monster sillage right out of the gates but almost instantly fades into a skin scent that is barely noticeable within minutes. The JCE minimalist structure is ever present in this composition. I would love to own it but leans towards the fem side a bit much for my liking. In essence, it reminds me of a stripped down version of TDH; a version that the ladies can wear. I will need to test this more for a definitive decision. I award this a thumbs up for it quality, creativity, and overall pleasant smell. However, longevity and the sweet top notes have me concerned.

    27th June, 2010.

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    Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Notes via luckyscent:Pine needles, vetiver, sugary sap, laurel, fir balsam, frankincense, candied fruit and spice.

    I'm gonna give my interpretation in the way I perceive it instead of analyzing individual notes above. I will extrapolate the smell to what other fragrances comes to mind. I don't get a dose of pine as in Blenheim Bouquet or Windsor. Instead, I get the likes of Gucci Pour Homme/CDG 2 Man with Hinoki in the background. After a while, the CDG 2 Man vibe fades and leaves a strong presence of Hinoki. You are wondering if one can justify owning this if you already have the aforementioned fragrances. Yes! Fille en Aiguilles has quality ingredients, the best parts of both fragrances and no weaknesses from the Gucci Pour Homme/CDG 2 Man aspect. FeA retains that incense, pencil shavings character that is present in Gucci PH, done much better in Santal Blanc, and has comparable quality in FeA. The sauna aroma that shows resemblance to a Japanese bath house is the Hinoki aspect. FeA is the best of both worlds. The longevity is excellent and so is the sillage. It wears smooth and never feels uncomfortable. A must own from the house of Serge Lutens!

    10th December, 2009.

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    Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford

    Tuscan Leather starts out warm with the raspberry. Because of this note, it is not a cold leather that I typically associate with an Italian leather. I prefer cold leathers. I do see the association with a car freshener but I think TL is a more refined fragrance that interplays between a cheap $2 whore and elegance. The fruit warms it up but a note is resembling the pencil shavings character borrow from Gucci Pour Homme. The leather is ever present in the background. This is now a powdery leather nor is it pungent. It is a linear fragrance that is well crafted and made of fine ingredients. As Trebor has mentioned, this would be a great leather for those who don't tolerate leather well. It has outstanding longevity and moderate sillage. As mentioned, the color "brown" comes to my mind as well. While I find it completely wearable and enjoyable, I give it a neutral rating simply based on the price of $260 for 3.4 oz. I don't think its worth it.

    13rd October, 2009.

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    Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel

    I cannot agree more with Foetidus. It is simply perfect and I love smelling it. There is not much else to say. No note analysis needed. It is readily available so I recommend that you go out and try it. See what you think.

    13rd October, 2009.

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    Cool Water by Davidoff

    I have been back and forth with the fragrance over the years. At times I preferred over GIT which is similar, and other times I preferred GIT. I have finally made the conclusion that Cool Water had it's day. I prefer GIT not because it is a Creed or costs more, but because it is more satisfying and elegant not to mention the quality is much higher. I have witnessed minor changes on Cool water such as the cap is much thinner and made of a more flexible plastic and leads me to believe that the juice may have gotten a tad more synthetic as well. Overall I have to rate this once a thumbs up fragrance as a neutral because it is simply inferior to anything else in this particular genre.

    2nd June, 2009.

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    Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

    There is no need for over analysis here. It is a timeless classic that exudes confidence and demands respect. One to two sprays will last the entire day. This is a very masculine, dry, woody fragrance that is perfect for any type of situation. I prefer this over Egoiste and is perhaps my favorite Chanel.

    2nd May, 2009.

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    Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

    I give this a thumbs up because it is one of the best citrus fragrances I have come across. I say this with some reservations though. I love the mint and woods along with the orange in the top notes but I find the papaya a little irritating. Thank goodness that doesn't last long. The longevity is decent on me. I prefer the EDC version over the new concentree. The concentree seems to lose some of the character that makes the EDC so magical. Although I love this fragrance, I am hesitant to replenish at this time. Perhaps in the future I can be more patient with this fragrance and enjoy it once again for it's simplistic identity.

    5th January, 2009.

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    No. 88 by Czech & Speake

    Czech and Speake No.88

    This is not like I imagined it to be but is a pleasant surprise. The rose is the fragrance is muted and does not take center stage. Instead, the rose remains as in the background but I would not call it a supporting act. I would call it an elusive anomaly that uniquely resides in the shadows. No.88 is, to my nose, a sandalwood fragrance much like the sandalwood in Santal Noble without the vanilla. The rose that lurks is comparable to Montale’s Black Aoud but just enough of it for you to want more. No. 88 could be described as Santal Noble with a hint of black Aoud in the back. If you love that rose and you want it in full force with noting to hold it back, Black Aoud is the way to go as it is more savage. If you don’t like so mych rose and enjoy sandalwood, No. 88 is the choice. Both are very different. In fact as others have said, they are different enough to warrant ownership of both. No.88 is a great fragrance!

    31st December, 2008.

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    Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

    This is perhaps the only aquatic I love. It starts out as a fresh, kind of lemony citrus with the woods as a supporting act. I think because there are other elements such as the woods that this fragrance is well balanced and has a substantially greater longevity that other citrus or water scents. You have to be oblivious to it's popularity and just wear it for the great scent that it is. It is perfect for any time of year or any occasion. It like slipping on something very comfortable. I use to associate with the sour note philosophy but lately I don't get it. I bought the huge 6.7 oz bottle of it from a fresh shipment into the store and my bottle is great. All fresh and no sour notes to speak of. The shower gel and deodorant are wonderful products and dare I say that ADG shower gel may be among the best I have used.

    23rd November, 2008.

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    Aqua Allegoria Herba-Fresca by Guerlain

    This is perhaps the best mint fragrance I have ever smelled. It is cool, smooth, and very green. I prefer it over Creed's Selection vert and Cartier's Pasha Menthe. There is not alot to say about this but the fact that it is a must for any mint and Guerlain lover. It is very stimulating and refreshing. I love how this fragrance is mint dominant. It smells natural as if the oil was just collected from a freshly torn leaf. GO GET SOME!

    2nd November, 2008.

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    parfums*PARFUMS series 8 Energy C: Lime by Comme des Garçons

    CDG Series 8 Energy C: Lime

    Lime notes:
    Lime, bergamot, green lemon, water jasmine, rose tea, lily of the valley, musk, cedar, white amber.

    The initial burst starts out with a typical lime aroma found in most lime scents. However, CDG Lime quickly departs from this cooling note that many of us enjoy. There is not a lot to analyze here as the musk, cedar, and white amber accord quickly take center stage. I am a huge fan of Comme des Garcons and their use of woods and incense. They are renowned for pulling off unthinkable notes that seem an oddity to create a timeless masterpiece. This is not the case with Lime. In my estimation, cedar does not belong in this composition and tends to roughen the edges a bit. As the refreshing lime almost instantly subsides, I step and try to ascertain the overall picture. If I didn’t know better, I would think I was smelling a lime fizz soda, a creamy key lime pie, or some type of candy but as I mentioned previously, the musk, cedar, and white amber take the stage with cedar being the note that for me, in spite of my liking for this wood, ruins the composition. The longevity if actually decent but wears close to the skin. As a citrus fragrance, I award this a disappointing 2/10.

    29th May, 2008.

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    Monocle Scent One: Hinoki by Comme des Garçons

    Monocle Scent One: Hinoki

    How does one review the pinnacle of my fragrant journey? Perhaps my review is premature because I simply can’t define how stunning this fragrance is. Here are the official notes:

    Cypress, turpentine, camphor, cedar, thyme, pine, Georgian wood, frankincense, moss and vetiver.

    This fragrance doesn’t reveal itself through stages of morphologic transitions. It is as if the fragrance is transparent and you can smell all stages at once. I am in no way suggesting Hinoki is linear - - it is far from it. The turpentine and camphor mingles with the woods of cypress and cedar. This creates a mesmerizing tunnel through which the thyme and pine drags the top notes into a vortex where everything is still transparent and clearly represented. The Georgian wood, frankincense, moss, and vetiver is there at the end of the black hole to immediately connect with the stellar masterpiece thus far. If you could imagine a warm hole to be clear and represent this fragrance, it will transport your senses from point A to point B instantaneously without missing a note. Incredible! How does it do this? I don’t know it just does and it works.

    I can understand where people are coming from in their review of Hinoki. I do get a slight incense but the type on incense found here is closer to Avignon for its dry and smoky character rather than Kyoto where it is a bit more wet. I also detect a cooling, snow frost note found in Zagorsk which in Hinoki, comes off like a clean musk that is fantastic. I truly thought that nothing would ever be able to surpass my beloved Kyoto but friends, history has just been made. I give this a 100 out of 5 stars. Yes, it really is that good!

    12nd May, 2008.

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    Eau de Cartier Concentrée by Cartier

    It takes the basic design of the original Eau de Cartier and to me, adds top notes of green apple. Oddly enough, the original version seems more green to me, or shall I say a more desireable green. The concentree gets acid and sharp. This combination of sharpness and greeness throws the composition off balance which makes this whole thing acrid. It wants to deliver a slight singe to the nostril hairs. I don't like this rendition and I much prefer the original.

    20th April, 2008.

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    Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

    I tend to agree with neutral ratings awarded thus far. The vetiver is not from the root which gives a pungent, eathy aroma as in Guerlain's Vetiver. The vetiver must be taken from the leaves because it is very fresh, clean, and surfactant-like. I would award this a higher rating but as already mentioned, I also feel that the tonka note ruins the fragrance. I wished I could skim off the top notes and just wear that but thats dreaming. 5/10

    13rd April, 2008.

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    Amyitis by Mona di Orio

    I wanted to like this from the note description but when I had the chance to sample this, my mental predisposition was not spot on. If you try hard, you can detect a hint of green notes in the beginings of this linear scent. The green notes quickly get smothered out by a dominating factor that reminds me of aged wax. Thats right. If you have ever come across a wax candle that has been sitting around for the past decade and has collected a little dust on it, this is what Amyitis smells like. Unfortunately, this note persists from start to finish. I am inclined to blame it on the caroway and the loads of moss. Perhaps the amber gives it a tinge of dustiness. You might also relate Amyitis with the smell of a dirty cashmere musk. I had to wash this off my wrist as it started to make me feel ill. If you want to smell like you are in a wax museum, go for it. Otherwise, stay far away! My rating is 0/10. I just can't find anything positive about it.

    10th April, 2008.

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    Encre Noire by Lalique

    Encre Noir was love at first whiff. Encre Noir opens up with that bit of "green" from the Hatian Vetiver but you soon notice the licorice yielding a dark, inky, metallic texture that adds depth and mystery to the composition. There is a slight suggestion of spice, but rather it is the earthiness of the Vetiver Bourbon that quickly fades and supports Encre Noir's complexity. The Musk and Cashmere Wood adds sophistication and "Manly" overtones. As a whole, this is indeed a dark, brooding, inky fragrance that has instantly won me over. It is complex, yet smooth. Dark while mysterious. It conjures up several scenarios to mind. A must in any serious wardrobe and a fragrance that can be worn for any occasion and season. Finally, a Lalique that I don't want to be without!

    7th April, 2008.

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    l'eau de parfum #3 green, green, green and green by Miller et Bertaux

    G^4 begins with verbena announcing its arrival. However, the verbena doesn't come to mind at all. Instead, I get an inital burst with heavy remnants of mint. The following suit is floral followed by cedar, vetiver, and musk in the base. This adds woodiness to the green floral. It is fresh and not overpowering. Now that the formal convention of a review is done, lets talk about what this really is. Upon the first waft, I immediately recognized this as a clone of Un Jardin en Mediterranee by Hermes only noticeably inferior. I give this a 3/10 for being fresh and green due to the fact that I love this category. The thumbs down reflects the score I gave it due to its inferior comparison to Un Jardin en Mediterranee and for the shame of cloning the Hermes product.

    7th April, 2008.

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    Baraja by Acqua di Biella

    Baraja opens with lemon, citron, and lime. This is a burst of a very fresh "green" smell. It actually evokes to color of green. the middles notes are black currant, peach and a hint of honey. This lends a fresh "air" vibe to the mellow green smell that stills persists in the development while not detecting anything componet from the middle notes in particular. The rich base notes of amber, patchouly, and vetiver support the green composition by adding a bit of depth and character. Vetiver further supports the opening act to add opulence and vibrancy to the green aura while the amber and patchouly only support the vetiver and move it forward. Overall, it is very fresh, very pure, very green, and a fragrance that instantly makes you happy! I understand the conotations to fresh linen but this in no way is the complete picture. This is an instant love for me and when you want to be happy, want to smell clean, want to feel good, this is the perfect choice. Baraja is perfectly blended and is very smooth in operation. One might think it wears close to the skin because you receive gently wafts here and there but, it projects and has sillage in a "civilized" way. A perfect 10/10 and a must have. Your get clean, soapy, depth, and satisfaction. Great job Acqua di Biella!

    7th April, 2008.

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    Acqua di Biella No. 1 by Acqua di Biella

    No 1 opens with a slight "Old World" feel. I agree that the mint and lavender play the major roles in this act. Upon first waft, mint water comes to mind. I say water because it literally conjures emotions of running water due to the EDC concentration. Upon further examination, I realize the lavender yields an earthy quality, and if shaved root bark soaked in water. For me, this note is dischordant and adds a bitter tinge that disrupts the composition and is incongrous with what the fragrance wants to be. The lavender also keeps the mint and bay. The mint is struggling to come out and play but remains reserved as if there is no confidence to socialize. I don't detect any of the other notes off hand. Overall, it smell fresh and good enough but rather fleeting. It would be hard to absorb the purchase price for this EDC. For real stunner however, check out Baraja by Acqua di Biella which is in my opinion, redemption for this house! I give No 1 a 4.5/10 earining it a neutral rating if you round up.

    7th April, 2008.

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    Polo Explorer by Ralph Lauren

    This is the first great offering from this house in many recent years. It is a sublime, woody fragrance. Upon first blast, I smell a cooling cyprus note it seems. It quickly goes into the star note from that great discontinured contradiction by CK. So, fans of that will want to check out this. Although it has its similarity to contradiction, it is unique and better done. This has immediately beome my favorite woody fragrance. It is clean, rugged, and masculine. It is perfect for everyday use and for any occasion. I highly reccommend this fragrance!

    22nd December, 2007.

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    Riverside Drive by Bond No. 9

    The water fruit and violet mingle well to add sparkle to the magnificent basil. The basil is prominent throughout the life of the wearing which is a positive thing. This is the finest basil note that I have come across. It is true to its form and as I noted, is disposed to sparkle and shine brilliantly. As the water fruit and violet make way, the creamy sandalwood from the base starts to take initiative and support the basil. Patchouli does not dominate the dry down as so many other fragrances do. Instead, it adds to the maturity of the sandalwood and is undetectable as a single note. The cedar woods add opulence to the virility of the basil. The lasting power is vigorous and the sillage is among the best to experience. Riverside Drive is an instant classic and not only sits at the helm of Bond but, among other great classics as well. This defines what a classic is and what others ought to be.

    12nd December, 2007.

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    Steam Aoud by Montale

    Cambodian Aoud is infused with aggar matta oil (Indonesian herbs) and rests with light notes of amber and cumin. I disagree with previous reviews and feel this is an incredible fragrance for a few reasons. The rich bewitching depth of Aoud does dominate but that is what I like about it. Many of us love the rose notes found in some other fragrances but if you want to subtract that note because you are going to the gym, are going to be in the extreme heat, or whatever the reason, then look no further. This fragrance can also serve as a layered freshener if you feel your Aoud has worn off in another Montale fragrance since Steam Aoud is dominated by Aoud. I find the dry down quite lovely. The other notes mingle with Aoud to give a sweet aldehyde waft. I actually prefer this for a fresh fragrance over the Soleil de Capri. It is never cloying and terrific for all the exotic goodness of Aoud!

    19th October, 2007.

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    West Indian Limes by Truefitt & Hill

    This is one of the best limes on the market. There is no need to analyze this and get winded here. You simply have fresh uplifting limes. If you don't want to project and are not concerned with longevity, this may be the feel-good fragrance you are looking for. I will agree that it lasts about 3-4 hours.

    18th October, 2007.

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    La Base for Him by Magic Helvetia

    La Base begins with a strong burst of grapefruit. I find the use of this note in this particular fragrance to be discordant. For me, the wild mint and basil gets bypassed by the bully grapefruit. Thankfully this note subsides in due time. As the la base heads for the dry down, the pine bark makes an appearance but don’t be fooled. I tend to think of pine as a cooling, embracing note. Instead, the dry down is rather warm, heady, and synthetic smelling I do agree. The best part of the journey was the mineral tonic that was experienced in the mid-notes. Overall, I have to give la base two thumbs down for being too synthetic and slightly off-putting.

    17th October, 2007.

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    Ciel for Him by Amouage

    Ciel announces its glorious arrival with refreshing and cooling bergamot. The lavender takes mingles in the shadows of bergamot while the floral heart develops. The spices namely frankincense, envelops the composition gracefully white a subtle delight never forcing domination of the floral goodness. Ciel is smooth, welcoming, and as fresh as the azure sky and ocean of Dubai. However, when I step back and waft the fragrance to me, I get am image of the green beachfront waters. Dare I say that I smell a green floral fragrance with exceptional quality and appeal? Ciel is far superior to Creed’s Royal Delight which is strikingly similar but inferior. If you love the floral heart and frankincense of Dia but don’t enjoy the essence of baby powder and want something for office, gym, or romantic use, then look no further. Ciel is bright and uplifting. This works in many situations and therefore is one of my all-time favorites. Ciel is a King among Kings!

    17th October, 2007.

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