Reviews by DarkStar

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    parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons

    I finally completed the incense set with Kyoto this year. I don't think it tranquil so much as urbane exotic woods. Tea house, if not tea itself, in spite of the coffee. Rei Kawakubo reflects her native culture well here and so unlike any mainstream idea of scent, Kyoto is a must for the incense collector.

    07 October, 2005

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    Green Irish Tweed by Creed

    Wearing this GIT in synchro today with the noters I admit again to it's glory and sigh to no avail, it won't be mine. Too many Creeds to choose from. I don't quite git the Curve/Cool allegations. This is quality. They are not. Still, I prefer Himalaya or Tabarome.

    30th September, 2005

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    Cédre by 06130 Zéro Six Cent-Trente

    One of the first niché scents for me and after almost two years it is better than ever. Violet glow floats softly over exquisite wood. Very warm and opulent so save it for a cool day. Or evening.

    29 September, 2005

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    H.M. by Hanae Mori

    Always starts off nicely but familiarity breeds contempt. Annoying. Too sugary. Plastic.

    23 September, 2005

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    Comme des Garçons 2 by Comme des Garçons

    Very unusual and warm fragrance. The sumi ink is incredible. Lasts all day.

    23 September, 2005

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    Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

    Platinum is the best. This is the real Chanel style. In the nucleus are the trademark aldehydes, which are awol in other Chanel men's scents.
    It starts off briskly, giving that bracing morning wash basin rush. Lavender and herbs announce the beginning of a remarkable inversion to come soon enough with a spiky smokey mystery that slowly infuses florals and aldehyde. But not to dominate since vetiver, moss, and wood develop soon enough to make this gem start to comfort and glow.

    28 October, 2004

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    Bel Ami by Hermès

    What's with all these thumbs-down here?
    Bel Ami is a very nice flowing Chypre. Yes, it has an offbeat mix of florals and leather. That is what makes it so appealing. Maybe someone sprayed on a little too much.
    So, maybe I didn't exactly love Bel Ami at first sniff. Maybe I even repelled when I first opened the box and let it hit my hand. Maybe you shouldn't wear it to the office - I do. I'm wearing it at the office right now. Hope they won't boot me out. Sure, it's more of a night out scent. But nothing smells quite like this.
    When the weather is cool enough Bel Ami is really cool.

    27 October, 2004

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    Méchant Loup by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    If you could imagine, just in from the snowy cold, darkness of night, dining by the crackling fire...the cold stones of Castle Dracula, wind seeping in from the Borga Pass...strangely familiar spices and rich wine, WOLVES howling voices swirl in from the emptiness...Mechant Loup would be perfect. Cannot describe the notes but it sure does perfect the mood for me.

    21st October, 2004

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    Passage d'Enfer by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    I must be the odd one here. It lasts all day for me. Passage d'Enfer is good wares for the penetrating heat of midsummer days. The aloe manages to freshen the glow of the frankincense, something I would not have believed possible.

    20th October, 2004 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2005)

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    XS pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

    Ah, the poor man's Himalaya. Get it even if you have Himalaya since it's original and perhaps more versitile. Good for the office and after hours as well. The transitions from the brisk opening, through the wild flowers to the lovely richness of sweet woods is just fine. I'm going to have to try XS Extreme next.

    23 September, 2004

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    M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

    I've had this for over a year now. It was not what I expected, with the incense and mandrake notes. Was a bit put off at first but came to an appreciation quickly. I personally prefer Kouros for a YSL incense note, and Opium for a berry flavor. Mr.7 is a bit quirky.
    Apparently agarwood gives this it's rich fruity quality and that is probably why I tend to tire of it before the day is out. I expected something dark but this is bright and sweet. It is a well made and unique, rather trendy too, though I don't make the religious or ritual connection with it. So, a cautious thumbs up from me. Try first.

    22 September, 2004

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    Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

    Ah, the infamous Kouros. How can it be? A consistent sales leader across Europe. Kouros is much bolder than the politely correct fragrances of late which seem to be engineered to avoid offending by not saying much.
    But for those times when one does want an aura of the dynamic, rather than either the ubiquitouos soft drink smell or candy and bake goods, Kouros will satisify. And then some. It's not for the fainthearted but for a real fougre experience, and animal appeal, I still like to go for the original.
    Kouros starts out brisk and spicy to catch attention even in the most crowded venue, and the lasting incense in the base carries into the cozy wee hours, if you know what I mean, getting better and better.

    03 September, 2004

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    Xeryus by Givenchy

    Xeryus is an early favored scent upon my return to fragrances some ten years ago. I would compare it as a fresh competitor to Kouros, rather than likening it to Nobile, which I abhor and see no similarity to at all.
    Xeryus typifies the "fresh fougre" to me perfectly and starts with a citrusy lavendar, the lavendar persisting into the very ambery drydown, which helps retain the fresh edge.
    While a bit clubby and bold, not so much so as to exclude day use or casual options as well. My only regret is seeing the outstanding black bottle being replaced by a very mundane one.
    BTW, Xeryus lasts too, and doesn't turn nasty on the drydown either.

    02 September, 2004

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    Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

    Van Cleef & Arpels is the one that started it all for me. After running through several small bottles from a closeout source I searched the web looking for a replacement and discovered Basenotes.
    It is still a favorite for me and always will be, even as my niche collection now rivals the house scents in number.
    VC&A is a remarkable creation, bringing together a fresh green, lovely clove, and deep sandal beautifully, and of course more complex than that would imply.
    Elegent, masculine, and mature.

    02 September, 2004 (Last Edited: 07 October, 2004)

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    Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella

    I like this right away. My first impression was some kind of solvent then it settled quickly to a slightly sweeter comfortable unique fragrance. Definitely some of the machine lube here but not excessively, with some kind of spice and woods or leather. This is a very different take on the idea of a masculine scent.
    It is casual without being at all crass, and would be very versitle. Also definitely has a continental flair. Nostalgia gives a very contemporary feel without any trendiness.

    12 August, 2004

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    Lucifer No. 3 by Damien Bash

    Lucifer No.3 is the softer relative of #1. Both are incense ridden and dark souls. Number 3 isn't acrid as the franincense/myrrh might suggest, and while not quite as strange and sinister as No.1, still a brilliant five star alchemical brew. This could pass more easliy in situations as a fragrance instead of incense, which it also is. Highly recommended.

    30th July, 2004

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    Lucifer No. 1 by Damien Bash

    This strange brew is my first choice of the Lucifer series. Very gothic, ambery incense, reminiscent of a dark moonlight night, smokey vapour, polished black marble strewn with crushed flowers. Suggests a dangerous ritual.
    A little goes a long way here, easy to overdo it. This is very unusual so try it before buying. Easily five stars for me. No one will confuse this with "colognes".

    30th July, 2004

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    Fahrenheit by Christian Dior

    Can't live with it, cannot live without it. Sometimes I get the spilled petrol effect, other times it is the most amazing and distinctly leathery floral scent I have. Is it in the application? Getting the proper dosage? Whatever - while not at the top of my heap, it is not one I will part with. Too unusual and distinct for everyday but a necessary evil at times. A real sci-fi scent.

    22 June, 2004

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    The Dreamer by Versace

    The Dreamer is very refined and a special scent for me. Like a VSOP cognac, it is richly delicate and natural. I will always have a special place for it among my fragrances, as it is unique.

    21st April, 2004

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    Himalaya by Creed

    This Himalaya is absolutely stunning. Of the hundred or so fragrances I've tried this past year, this is definitely on of the most enjoyable and compelling ever. Himalaya is the first Creed that I've ever wanted at any price.
    The only thing I will add to the excellent reviews here is my wholehearted recommendation that you try this.
    Himalaya is very contemporary, complex, and just gets better and better.

    24 March, 2004

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