Fragrance Reviews by fudull

I don't understand the animosity towards this one. If I had a guess, I'd say it has to do with the expectations and the price tag being equally high. I managed to find the EDP for half the price, and to be honest I think this is not that bad at all. For some reason, I thought this would have more of a brandy feel to it, yet so far Escada PH and lately Mugler's Pure Malt remain the few good examples of classy yet boozy fragrances.

Courvoisier starts off with the mandarin and coriander and some other slightly off-putting spices that create a warm aroma, which projects nicely but never lives up to the openings of other niche fragrances in the same price range. The biggest problems are in the mid notes. I agree with the others here, it is a jumble of notes that create a cacophony of complex yet not enjoyable smells. This confused combination of grassy florals lingers on until the nice amber and leather show up at the end. If you haven't lost interest by the midnotes, you will find a rich base that lasts for a few more hours, but sticks close to the skin. Overall, for an EDP, I expected better sillage and longevity, thus the neutral rating.

This story is printed on acid-free,100% recycled paper...yeah, it's that Green.

To my nose this an alternative take along the lines of Mugler's Cologne and Bulgari PH. It has the same bright opening accord as Mugler. I think it is even brighter, it's "vetiver" is razor-sharp yet still very pleasant. In the middle notes, I detect a slight musk begin to creep in, which combined with the green opening quickly brings to mind Bulgari PH. It has neither wood, leather or vanilla in its base, which is to say it fades off to nothing, rather quickly. Despite the sub-par longevity (Mugler Cologne and Bulgari PH last ages on me) for the summer and the price one can't really complain.

If you just squeeze the peels of tangerines on yourself, you will smell exactly like this fragrance, it may even last a bit longer too. That being said, I find that there is something very appealing about simplicity, especially when it is so bright and forthcoming. I think this is one of the most straightforward fragrances I have ever smelled, and I appreciate that, especially in a world growing more tangled by the minute. For a longer lasting, but more synthetic, alternative try Hilfiger Athletics.

Back about 9 years ago, my brother and I went shopping with the intent to buy fragrances for the summer. He always plays it safe, and once again he left the store with a bottle of Acqua di Gio, I can’t say I blamed him, but I could not follow his example. My usual preference in fragrances ranges from orientals to gourmands, so I was not exactly a master at choosing an ideal fresh scent for the summer (this was way before I discovered L’eau d’Issey and Bulgari Aqua).

So I settled on this spicy green concoction, it became the fifth fragrance in my early collection. That bottle is long since finished, but I just purchased another one for a decent price. I think it was the memory of that chaotic yet interesting sharp green apple accord at the top that made me reach for it again. I do not regret the purchase, even if it is not groundbreaking, it is still distinctive in its disharmony. Personally, I find Hugo performs its casual task very well. It is overtly synthetic and at times can be upsetting, especially if one has applied it heavily to his skin and then started to sweat profusely. Yet it is not presumptive, it is just what its bottle and its light blue color advertise: a mass market fragrance with enough character to allow for a modest level of self-assurance. To ask for anything more from a fragrance from the mid 90s coming from the house of Boss is unreasonable.

As far as lavender-oriented scents go, this one is simple in its development and pure in its ingredients. The end result is a light fragrance very reminiscent of a spring walk out on the countryside.

I bought this after careful testing, so I knew that its longevity was pitiful, but what drew me to it was its amazing topnotes. I have not smelled lavender so mellow and easy-going since Caron PH, but unlike Caron's mixture, which eventually suffers from mid-note-crisis and turns into "baby vomit" as the vanilla picks up after a few hours, Yardley's formula stays soft and relaxing...and then it disappears. I cannot smell any basenotes in this EdT if my life depended on it. However, if used in combination with the soap and the roll-on, this fragrance can last for a few delightful hours.

Personally, the one note that I dislike above all others is the bitter citrus/lime, and this masterfully blended, uber masculine fragrance, has that note in its very heart. The opening is a harsh citric blast best reminiscent of YSL pour homme's concentrated edition, strong but undeniably masculine. Then the nostril-burning bitter citrus settles in and stays on my skin for at least 3-4 hours, this is the only reason for the neutral rating, because the rest of the fragrance, which lasts for at least 12 hours, has the near to perfect woody-barbershop drydown (the truly perfect base is Jaipur's). I can't say enough about the blending of the notes, I can't pick out the transition from mid to base notes, they flawlessly merge into a perfect harmony. Alas, the bitter note makes this one of the few mini bottles in my collection, and its lack of use makes me unlikely to buy a larger bottle.

Most certainly classy and refined scent, but hardly over-40. Any man with a sense of style and a well-cut suit can wear Boucheron without reservation.

Underrated.

I am quickly becoming a fan of 70s scents. I love Lagerfeld's deep leathery muskness and now I have discovered the lemony sweetness of Pierre Cardin PM. The 80s introduces the harsh masculine openings, but in the 70s the theme was more sensual, and Pierre Cardin embodies the seductive sweet aroma of I consider a more playful and relaxed decade, sadly I was not around then, but a sniff of this potion seems a good consolation.

The sugary lemon, probably due to the influences from the vanilla and tonka from the base, is my most lasting impression, but the middle is masterfully presented too, I can pick up a soft geranium and even the earthy patchouli seems toned down for the sake of harmony. The base is lovely and has great longevity. Next to vetiver, the vanilla-tonka-leather combo is my favorite drydown, so I love the endnotes of this classic.

For the price, this is a must have, and I hardly consider this outdated, there are many modern fragrances (Chic and Trussardi Inside) that try to combine similar themes, but in my opinion Pierre Cardin created a lasting masterpiece in '72.

This is a weird one.

I honestly do not know what it is trying to do. It starts off like the heart notes of Bowling Green, all stuffy-woody-citric combo that lasts for a few hours. Then suddenly is smells exactly like the wonderful sweet-woody drydown of Michael Kors, and the longevity is quite good.

I am not a fan of Bowling Green, but I do like the drydown. Still, unlike the others in the 360 series, this is not an obvious clone to another fragrance, it attempts to be its own "animal", but I doubt it would survive in the jungle. Worth owning if you like an enigmatic woody fragrance that has decent sillage and good longevity.

I got this for my friend, and it turned out to be a waste. After the first five minutes it disappeared, literally vanished, I even leaned closer to smell it and there was nothing there. Sure the lime and lemon are nice at the top, even if they smell a bit masculine, but there are no detectable mid notes and I doubt even a bloodhound could smell the drydown after half an hour.

I was hoping to give the gift of a discontinued, hard-to-find scent to another fragrance-lover like myself, instead I am responsible for unearthing one of the most pathetic fragrances I have ever smelled.

Double thumbs down.

Urgh...just plain foul. Everything that is wrong with postmodernity put in a bottle. The opening will burn your nosehairs right off, so you can't smell anything for at least an hour. In the midnotes, for a few brief moments, there is a pleasant hint of violet leaves mixed with the earthy patchouli which is just starting to come into the picture, for this half an hour you could almost enjoy this fragrance, but then it all comes crashing down in a jumble of notes so indecipherable that I can best describe them with an image: wet soil after a heavy rain riddled with fat nightcrawlers.

I am grateful to my father for giving me a sample of this otherwise I might have bought it blind and truly lamented the investment, after all NR for Him has been praised as a 21st century take on the fougere genre, but in my opinion, it fails miserably. For an alternate, and better formulated, take on the modern fougere try Lalique's Encre Noire, you won't be disappointed.

A modern vetiver masterpiece

In my opinion, the best take on vetiver since Malle’s Vétiver Extraordinaire. I’ll go as far as to place it in par with Guerlain's famous green juice of the sixties. However, unlike these esteemed predecessors, Encre Noire does not open with the harsh herbaceous green or a citric blast, in fact, the raw vigor of earthy/soil vetiver is so powerful that if there are any topnotes in this fragrance, they are immediately overwhelmed. The lack of traditional opening simply does not matter. For a vetiver addict like myself, one whiff at the rich aroma of so many vetivers (I detect more than just the two listed) all in one place is enough to keep me happy for the whole progression of the fragrance, which given its excellent longevity, means I am happy for a long time.

After the initial blast subsides, you start to really understand the concept behind Encre Noire, because while the basic vetiver note stays with you for the whole day, its faceted journey is just beginning. Here is my analogy: a classical symphony, it opens up with a powerful theme, then follows with variations of that theme throughout its course. First, come the dark and root-only vetivers, reminiscent of the middle in Malle’s Vétiver. These give the fragrance its name, and a gothic appeal which makes it perfect for the night out, but forget the nightclub, this is strictly ballroom material. After a three or four hours, the dark vetiver subsides, and a softer and sensual aroma emerges, think a richer version of Mugler’s Cologne or Creed’s Vetiver: perfect for the bedroom. This stage lasts for quite a while in my skin, but fades quickly from my clothes. What is left for the rest of duration is a wonderful soapy-musky drydown, think of the base in Guerlain’s Vetiver but without the sweaty tobacco. This last phase goes on and on until the next morning.

I don’t know the differences between Haitian or Bourbon vetiver, I have not plucked the grass or dug up these roots, so I can’t vouch for the specific notes, but I have done my best to describe what I smell in Encre Noire by reference to other vetiver fragrances which I own…but I do not think I do it justice.

I have also heard that L'Artisan Parfumeur's Vetiver is supposed to be just as rich and dark. Sadly I can't find a bottle or even a vial of that discontinued fragrance in order to compare. Even so, Encre Noire is truly a great fragrance and is becoming harder to find, so if you are a fan of vetiver or are just starting to appreciate this wonderful note, buy a bottle without any remorse.

I only had a vial of this and I used it up in just two applications. I am very careful with the application of fragrances so running through a vial so quickly usually indicates a lack of longevity, but I don't think that is the case, for I still notice the subtle warm leather and sandalwood accord after six hours. While the nice drydown lasts, the essence of the generic-smelling top notes is forgettable, while the nutmegian (nutmeg is being used so often in the heart notes now I thought it deserved its own term) middle has no sillage at all. This progression lacking in substance until the very end, renders the overall effect of the fragrance as passive and thus it gets a neutral rating.

Other than the fresh citrus opening, there is nothing in this concoction that bears serious consideration. This is truly a synthetic fragrance from start to finish, but other than the bright opening, the midnotes are mild and the base is nonexistent; thus its longevity is quite poor, less then 3 hours on my skin. I generally like synthetics as long as they are well-crafted and last the whole day. This one fails on both counts. The overall impression is one of a much weaker version of Echo, minus the suede note and with a lot of citrus at the top.

It is not that bad, just very average.

L'Aquatonic is aptly named, because after it opens up with a refreshing burst of a citric moss accord, which is by far its most dominating note, it definitely takes a watery turn. When these middle "water" notes take over and I smell nothing after a couple of hours. I do sense a slight vetiver note in the drydown but it is so feint, it could be leftover from my last cologne. Still that opening mossy note is perfect for a sunny summer morning and since it comes only in the 120mL bottle, you can afford to over- or re-apply at your leisure over the course of the day.

I really like this fragrance, and if it wasn't for its subpar longevity, I would wear it more often, especially now in the summer. I have made a conscious attempt to alternate its use with my other favorite fresh/summer fragrance Mugler Cologne, depending on whether I want to be synthetically fresh for a long time via Mugler, or a few hours of naturally fresh by means of Lancome.

I would rate it neutral overall, but a thumbs up as far as summer fragrances go.

Sweet but quickly fading.
Having read the great comments by some of the prominent reviewers here, I went out and bought the gift-set, including the aftershave and deodorant stick. Initially this fragrance is all it is advertised: sweet and unique with the anise coming through early and then quickly followed by the cinnamon. This early mixture is not groundbreaking, but it is well done and can be very enjoyable in a cool day... for about 20 minutes, because after that there is virtually nothing. I don't sense the supporting notes, and I certainly do not get the white musk (which usually lasts ages on me) or the vetiver (another typical basenote that my skin amplifies). In fact for the remainder of about an hour, I sense a weak vanilla-cinnamon swirl, which is pleasant but has not sillage and fades into nothingness after 90 minutes, thus completing its disappearing act. Oh yeah, and the deodorant, even when unused, smells like sweat mixed with cinnamon, so I never even put it on. Presently, I only own the aftershave, I gave the rest to a cousin of mine, he seems to like it, but then again he always over-applies.

Forget the topnotes, this one is a sweet powerhouse that reeks (in a very nice way) of tobacco, leather and incense. Most importantly, these mid notes last for ages and are very cleverly enveloped in an aura of sweetness that girls of this day and age seem to adore. Any woman with a sweet-tooth who appreciates good spices will be all over you for as long as you can bear it. I agree with the majority here, that during summer this is not the ideal fragrance, but for some strange reason Michael Kors works wonders in the clubs, where at times it can get just as hot and humid.

A bit too subtle.

I really want to like this one, no actually I honestly want to love it, but it just doesn't last on me, and I place longevity as one of my top priorities when it comes to rating fragrances. Lanvin Vetiver and Burberry London are my two most often used workplace scents, and I wanted this one to be that after work fragrance that refreshes me for the rest of the evening. The opening accord is probably the best chilled citrus blast I have smelled in a long time, I also get a bit of a metallic aftertaste which I guess comes from the mint. Surprisingly, I do not detect the pepper or the lavender, to which I am naturally very sensitive, but then I thought not all lavenders are created equal. These early impressions should have given me a hint but I didn't waver and for about a week, I would put it on just as soon as I left work and by the time my commute was over (30 to 40 minutes later), I would step out of the car with nothing on, fragrantly speaking of course. After doing some more careful testing, I found out that there is no drydown at all on my skin, maybe the faintest hint of amber, but nothing of the vanilla or the wood. I think Lanvin missed the marketing ploy with Oxygene, because I think this is one of the most "airy" fragrances out there, and while it has a nice bottle and great set of topnotes it is practically insubstantial.

Perhaps it is because this was the first fragrance I ever purchased, or perhaps it is the fact that while wearing this the last 9 years I have received more compliments that I can count, or maybe it is the amazing sillage and longevity which causes the whole laundry basket to emanate of vanilla and amber for days after I have put in it a shirt with a modest application of Le Male. It is hard for me to be concise when praising this fragrance, because while going through 3 bottles, I do not have only one reason why I love JPG Le Male, but at any given time I can give at least a dozen different ones.

I have also heard the criticism, with terms such as "chemical meltdown" and "overwhelmingly cloying” often going around. I disregard these critiques, because in the end of the day, 12 to 14 hours after initial application, an aura of warmth and sweetness is still prominent and heads turn regardless, and if it is a synthetic sweetness that causes this effect, well then so be it. Perhaps time has come where a well-done synthetic can compete and hold its own with the all-natural offerings out there.

I will gladly go out on a limb and reserve Le Male's place among the venerated classics. Decades later, we shall speak of it in the same breath as Guerlain Vetiver, Grey Flannel and Dunhill Edition. Not because it shares their notes or themes, but because it shares the qualities of a classic: amazing versatility, breakthrough combination of notes, remarkable progression and development, and the sillage and longevity of a thoroughbred. I just do not know of any fragrance that was released in the 90s that better captures the essence of the decade and has even two of these characteristics let alone all four.

A thumbs up for the ages.

I found a tester vial of this in some shopping bags that I was going to discard and decided to wear it for the day. I did not have much in the form of expectations, but I was pleasantly surprised.

Intense opens up strong, very different from the original which has that citrusy sprits that serves as the perfect pick-me-up in the summer mornings. With this version, I get a blast of woods and incense, though these are well blended and it is hard to detect the timing of each note. I don't think the overall effect is "intense" but rather more "heavy". I find this to be a completely different sort of fragrance, either way it is well done, and has a richness to it that the original lacked. For some reason halfway through the day I almost thought I had put on B*men, it gave a very similar vibe as the drydown was in full effect. I tend to like B*men so I like this one too, and I must say that longevity is quite good, 12 hours later it was still noticeable. which for me is one of the necessary characteristics for a purchase. Still, I am not in a hurry to rush out and buy it, after all, I still have to get the Bleue edition first.

I'm strangely amazed by this hidden gem. Not because it is well-blended or composed of rich ingredients, but because it seems to be surrounded by a unique and brooding, dark aura that I can best describe as "smoky". Of the top notes I get the heavy citrus and the mint but then there is definitely an earthy/herbal aroma that comes in and dominates my sense of smell and lasts for 4 to 5 hours. I think what I pick up the most is the fennel, memories of which go back to my childhood where dried fennel was used as an herb added to the fireplace along with the wood whenever guests would come over in our village house. For such an aromatic herb, fennel is much underused in most fragrance compositions. Though I would classify it as a dark fragrance, I would not limit its usage to overcast days, or stormy nights; in fact I have worn it during early mornings too and found that it mixes nicely with the crisp air.

A thumbs up on the use of distinctive ingredients, which create a truly unique fragrance.

It is sweet and unmistakable. Its power and mystique rely heavily on its gourmand distinctiveness. I would get it for my girlfriend, but I have A-Men for myself, and I must admit that the two are quite similar.

I don't know if it is an instant classic, but a woman wearing it will never want for attention.

If you could bottle the essence of “stuffy” you would end up with Bowling Green. I don’t fully understand why I get such a visceral reaction when I spray this, since I love its predecessor, now THERE is a worthy aromatic.

With Bowling Green, I immediately pick up the fresh citrus early on, but then the middle notes kick in quickly and whew…talk about a woody mess. I get lots of pine and cedar and moss and nothing to balance this, nothing to bring it back to sanity because to me the patchouli is meek and the cinnamon is stale, and it’s not just my bottle either, I tested one in a GB store and I got the same unpleasant odor. Sometimes a so-called classic is just old and not great simply because it is from the 80s or has discontinued. Bowling Green proves that point since it smells like my grandmother’s closet where she would keep all the old woolen blankets and a copious amount of moth balls.

I am not old by any means, and though I admit that I cannot not regularly sport this fragrance in my workplace, I break the mold every now and then and apply a spritz or two (and not a single drop more). Its aromatic green lavender is intoxicating, and yes, as most intoxicating substances go it is overpowering but this mellows down to a delicate mossy/woody accord that lasts for the better part of the day in my skin. I also get a touch of vanilla-like sweetness which is very reminiscent of JPG "Le Male" one of my personal favorites, so maybe that is why I love Grey Flannel.

As the classics teach us "all in moderation" perhaps applies best to this fragrance since overdoing it will lead to either the temporary paralysis of your sense of smell, or if you happen to live out in the country, you may find yourself just irresistible to all sorts of herbivores.

All in all, right up there with Plato and Aristotle. Its place will be forever linked with great classics. Though I don't think greek philosophers smelled quite like this...maybe like Kouros who knows...

A warm visit to the candy shop.

Literally, this fragrance has the intoxicating qualities of some of the most addictive edible sweets out there, which is not bad, but it tends to be a bit overpowering for the ones with sensitive noses. Thankfully, most girls love the sweets offered in this concoction and immediately notice the chocolate, caramel and vanilla in the drydown and positive comments pour in from all sides. Now the similarities with women's Angel are unmistakable, in fact my girlfriend has threatened to use my bottle on several occasions, but there is enough substance in the mid notes to bring some manliness to the mix, not much mind you, but just enough.

My biggest problem with this fragrance is the coffee. It does not really need to be there. It does not add any complexity and just caters to the noses of the Starbucks generation. Coffee has become a popular ingredient in the some of the new fragrances (Trussardi Inside Man, Polo Double Black, DKNY Be Delicious Men) I just hope the trend does not continue, isn’t it enough that the reek of coffee is in every aspect of society from the office to the restaurant and at home, now we must have a remainder of our need for caffeine by wearing its most pervasive aroma. Once upon a time a cup of coffee could conjure up wonderful memories, but now it is as common as car exhaust. No thanks, I’ll stick to tea, a flavor/aroma I find much less intrusive.

Overall, A*Men is well constructed and quite potent so don’t expect to shower with it and still retain your olfactory receptors. It is unique and long-lasting, which makes it very special indeed considering that it came out in the era of the aquatic invasion. Despite the coffee imposition, a definite thumbs up.

So this is what Escada had to offer for the summer...a fruit stand over-ripened by the scorching summer heat, until it almost smells delicious if you are a fruit fly. No thanks, I'll take Burberry Summer instead.