 | Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis KurkdjianI agree with most of the other reviews, even the thumbs up by L’Aventurier! From the first application I am not happy with what I smell on my skin. The fact that I still smell it after 3-4 hours could be a plus of I had liked it. Alas, I haven’t, I don’t. I am sorry to say. When I tried Aqua Universalis in Liberty London I thought it was interesting. Then I sprayed the intensified version and that for me had the WOW factor at that particular moment. When back home I couldn’t order a sample of the forte concoction I purchased a 2ml vial of Aqua Universalis. Unfortunately, it is too much of a goody-goody floral for me. Certainly a feel-good EdT available in a big enough bottle to actually use as a home fragrance ... again if you like lilly of the valley which for me dominates more than anything else this creation. If you wish to try a floral with an edge (and a bit soapiness I am afraid), try Clean Ultimate. 28th November, 2011. (Last Edited: 30th November, 2011.) |
 | APOM pour Homme by Maison Francis KurkdjianAPOM for men is certainly a well made long lasting Amber fragrance from the opening all the way to the end (7-8 hours after application). It is comparable to AMBER 114 by HdP but it’s less complexed and rich/deep, so rather straightforward I would say. For lovers of amber this is a must-try. I am not a fun of Amber myself and APOM didn’t convert me. 26th November, 2011. |
| | Cologne pour le Matin by Maison Francis KurkdjianThe minute I sprayed Cologne on my skin I got a blast of freshness ... but contrary to all the other reviewers and to the official site, I got strong IRIS that is not listed at all. Five hours since application and on my skin I can still smell a soothing, powdery, herbal, orange blossom. I think that this creation by Kurkdjian, while it is not my cup of tea, it is certainly distinct, remarkably well-made and long lasting. Alas the richness and sharpness of the opening was for me a bit offensive. I actually had to wonder if this is truly pour le Matin! 24th November, 2011. (Last Edited: 26th November, 2011.) |
| | cK One Shock for Him by Calvin KleinCK ONE was one of my favorite fragrances almost twenty years ago. Shock is one of the worst fragrances I have tried on for quite some time. Cheap and loud ... perfect I guess for their target group. Where is that house heading to? 11th October, 2011. |
 | L'Ame d'un Héros by GuerlainAt first testing this was marvelous. The Guerlain assistant filled a small glass vial for me to properly test at home. I could smell the similarity with Coriolan but I am not so fond of Coriolan. LÁme d’un Héros, however, I thought it was intoxicating. Alas, I found it very difficult to wear nowadays. It is typically Guerlain olfactory and gentlemanly (don’t get the feminine tag put on this from Basenotes). However, I insisted because there is something in it that I like very much ... even if it would seem to me to be out of character. After some thought I finally decided to do the unthinkable! I diluted most of the liquid in the glass vial in a 30ml atomizer with Melvita’s natural citrus eau de cologne tonique. I am sorry to admit that this “watered” down version is much more wearable for me. On the documentary Perfume-The Smell of the Future, I heard that there is a come back of these richer olfactory perfumes. I am fond of some rich niche perfumes ... but I still have a problem with the stuffiness of many of Guerlain’s offerings. 7th August, 2011. |
| | Clean Ultimate by CleanIt was the opening of CLEAN Ultimate that made me go for it. It is certainly a floral, and sometimes I feel strange wearing it, but I still like it. The citrus opening is invigorating, the floral is not offensive but rather fresh and the dry down is white, pure and ... clean, all and all comforting I would say. I can imagine how it is not an instant love for many... it wasn’t for me but I tried it a few times and something drew me to it. And yes, baby cologne can be traced here. There are times that I even get the powdery roundness of almond ... while there is no almond listed in the notes! I guess my ongoing quest for an interesting citrus has brought me to this ... white, soapy and floral offering. But then again one of the fragrances I was happy to discover has been Rose Thé by LJR which is marketed as a feminine tearose, while what I love about it is the citrus sparkle. CLEAN Ultimate is not my best but on me I find it very interesting ... and indeed I have had compliments ... especially by women (no wonder I guess). 7th August, 2011. |
| | Ginger Milk by ThymesA nice, albeit unsophisticated ginger fragrance. It has a distinct floral feeling to it and that might be difficult for some men; however, it is wearable and its longevity is not all that bad. I am not crazy about it but I still like it on my skin a couple of hours since application. It is worth a try! 1st May, 2011. |
| | Eucalyptus by ThymesI am somewhere between foetidus and sabrosa! I thought that Eucalyptus by Thymes would smell generic; however, it proved me wrong. It is utterly wearable and pleasant but there is something about it that hinders me from appreciating it. I suspect that it may be that many domestic cleaning products use artificial herbal fragrances like thyme, eucalyptus, lavender and so on to the point that unfortunately when I come across a nicely formulated herbal perfume I can't help it to think of cleaning agents! In fact this one unfortunately reminds me of bathroom cleaning products and fresheners! Pity! 1st May, 2011. |
| | Verveine / Lemon Verbena / Eau de Verveine by HeeleyI like wearing Vervein; however, it is a bit too sweet for my taste. I find it extremely well made, rich, but not intriguing. It is certainly pleasant, but then again most offerings by Heeley are at least pleasant. I expected a kick from Vervein, since I am a citrus addict, but I don't get it. 30th April, 2011. |
| | Sel Marin by HeeleyI didn't expect it but I think Sel Marine may very well be my favorite Heeley after trying a few. It is not dry, and it is not sweet; there is a distinct note of licorice that to my nose resembles anise. It is herbal, and fresh, old fashioned, and exceeds a sense of purity. When I first put it on I think I wear a rich fragrance for babies which is a contradiction in terms but anyway. I don't think of Sel Marine as a sea or summer or beach perfume. It is well made, long lasting olfactory and I really like it on me. I am surprised actually! Give it a try! 30th April, 2011. |
| | Figuier / Fig / Eau de Figuier by HeeleyIt is fig alright ... real and potent ... alas too sweet for my taste and rather unidirectional. It lingers for hours so for those who like it ... will be a treat. I personally think that I prefer Philosykos, or Fico di Amalfi if nothing else for their dryness. 13rd April, 2011. |
| | Eau d'Iris by HeeleyIris Nuit is well made, lasting and I feel nice wearing it especially as an evening fragrance. This said Prada's Iris for women is the best Iris fragrance I have tried and which I strongly recommend. Heeley's Iris is good but not exceptional. 13rd April, 2011. |
| | Cardinal by HeeleyCDG has long made incense fragrances that have set the rule very high. Heeley's is a potent, well made, lasting incense that doesn't add anything new or exciting to what CDG has accomplished already. I like smelling Cardinal and sometimes even wear it but I cannot forgive the fact that it reminds me too much of the ambience of a Christian church. Cardinal is indeed a bit too bland. 13rd April, 2011. |
| | Monsieur Eau du Matin by Jean Paul GaultierIf indeed its poor longevity is due to good quality natural essential oils as L' Aventurier suggests then I am glad I went for a bottle of Eau du Matin ... I first tried it when it was launched and I liked it but I wasn't convinced because of ... its poor longevity... at that time I already liked more TM Eau de Cologne. Recently however when I rediscovered Eau du Matin, it's subtlety won me over and now I enjoy wearing it very much. I use it as a body mist after shower and ... I am not stingy during application. This may explain why on my skin Eau du Matin lasts for quite a few hours ... very close to my skin though. This would normally somewhat bother me, however, with this one I don't mind... yet! I am sure though that these 100ml will not last me more than a couple of months... so I better slow down! 17th March, 2011. |
| | Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza by Acqua di ParmaColonia Essenza is a very well made fragrance. It is quite safe olfactory and likable especially for a certain age group (+40). However, I find it to be too gendered for my taste. Despite the fact that it is presented here as unisex, for me it is a very masculine fragrance and for this reason I don't like it. It has great longevity (+8 hours on my skin) which I wish I could say that I enjoyed but the sad truth is that I didn't. 6th January, 2011. |
| | Verveine by MelvitaI agree with Odysseus... I find Verveine so lemony that at the first application my nose gets itchy for a moment. It certainly is unisex and it is very interesting that it totally lacks sweetness. I have mixed feelings about the fragrances by Melvita for one and only reason. Melvita doesn't advertise their fragrances as organic but they are often sold in stores next to Melvita's organic cosmetic products (sale assistants promote the fragrances as organic while there is no certification visible on the products). When, some time ago, I requested more information from the company, I received no answer. 12nd December, 2010. |
| | Tuscan Soul by Salvatore FerragamoI am afraid I will be a joy killer... but I tried Tuscan Soul recently and probably because I expected too much from the positive reviews... I really didn't like it all the way from the beginning to its dry down. There was a distinctive note that irritated me. I thought about it and it could be the fig leaves; however, I like fig notes in other fragrances such as Philosykos by Diptyque, or Fico de Amalfi by Acqua di Parma, or even the one by Marc Jacobs. In addition I continue to persistently look for my favourite citrus fragrance but the citrus in Tuscan soul left me unimpressed. 1st November, 2010. |
| | Relax by Michael MarcusMichael Marcus runs a make-up company in Dallas Texas. I discovered his line of fragrances at the last days of Takashimaya department store in New York in May 2010. Looking as always for a dry citrus fragrance I came across Relax and I was very excited about it. Months later I still consider myself fortunate for my find. Relax regardless of its common place name and notes, works perfectly for me. Of course the sparkling opening is fantastic, much more impressive than its dry down; however, it is at the dry down that the dryness of citrus is more evident after some sweetness. As most citrus fragrances this one too doesn’t last for long, and this is the disappointing element for me. Two hours after application Relax stays close to the skin until it disappears. Nevertheless its citrus stays on my clothes for quite a while at least after some generous spraying. This is an eau de parfum and maybe this is the reason that although it does not last much longer than an eau de toilette, its brief life has a strong impact. The essential oils used make Relax feel like a precious composition of some kind. In my opinion Relax is made of high quality ingredients (although one can never be sure) and the combination of hesperides and green tea fulfils my expectations of a high quality body mist rather than an eau de parfum. All fragrances of Michael Marcus are very rare to find as the distribution has been very limited; if you ever come across any of them definitely try it. Relax proved to be a very well made unisex citrus fragrance, not at all linear, and fantastic to put on, and so effervescent that Relax isn’t how I would have called it. 22nd August, 2010. |
| | (Untitled) by Martin MargielaDespite all, I find this to be a very interesting fragrance. The opening reminds me of Eau de Campagne and the dry down of something else (could it be the scent by Issey?). It doesn't matter; I still think that Untitled is very wearable and pleasant. That it was made under L'Oreal and Diesel is a bit of a put off, and ok this is not haute perfumery; however, it is worth trying. 15th August, 2010. |
| | Numero Uno by CarthusiaThis was such a surprise! I feel apologetic for not liking No Uno, simply because it is one of the finest fragrances in the market! The fact that I am not fond of coniferous fragrances doesn't make this any less of a great and potent fragrance. No Uno is a very elegant and well made fragrance which lasts and lasts. It is olfactory, in an old gentleman way, and I am impressed by its longevity. Money well spent on this one for those of you who have a taste for sparkly cypress that doesn't dissolve into thin air. 15th August, 2010. |
| | Noir Patchouli by Histoire de ParfumsNoir Patchouli starts indefinable for me. It’s sweet enough and pleasant enough but I am afraid I cannot fully appreciate it from the start. I get the spiciness and woodiness but on my skin it feels a bit soapy; luxurious but still soapy. As time passes Noir Patchouli mellows but remains indefinable… it could just be that I am not a patchouli guy. I am, however, a vetiver guy and the dry down of this offering from Histoires de Parfums includes some very agreeable notes such as vetiver, musc and vanilla … ok and leather. Luckily for me it is the delicate sharpness of vetiver that starts the pleasant twist into delight. The opening sweetness is subdued and the composition calms down into very lasting and pleasant warm and spicy woods, and even later into vanilla, resinous and leathery accords. This turns out to be as complex as most offerings from Histoires de Parfums; still perfumery of high finesse. I love the dry down! 27th July, 2010. (Last Edited: 31st July, 2010.) |
| | 1725 Casanova by Histoire de Parfums1725. The instant I smelled this and put it on I really liked it. The initial freshness of hesperides blended in with the liquorice and a powdery woody warmth swept me away. 25th July, 2010. (Last Edited: 31st July, 2010.) |
| | 1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoire de Parfums1740 starts with an incense-like blast, while unfortunately bergamot is very short-lived. But nothing to worry about because soon after there comes such richness and all notes blend-in artfully. Leather is very potent already from the start, and I believe that cedar and labdanum warm up 1740. This is an olfactory but very sensual perfume, indeed more masculine than feminine. Drying down 1740 has an almost citrusy accord and a spiciness that I read could be due to elemi. After a few hours wearing 1740 I detect a coffee undertone… I most enjoy this final phase. I am not sure if Marquis de Sade would approve of 1740 but he might as well have had done so. 1740 is marvellous. 24th July, 2010. (Last Edited: 31st July, 2010.) |
| | Ambre 114 by Histoire de ParfumsAmber 114 is a peculiar one for me. Its opening is a cheerful blast then it quickly mellows ... because of the sweetness of vanilla? But it is not only sweetness that I sense because there is also the freshness and sharpness of woods. I cannot say I am a lover of amber per se; however, Amber 114 is a well made albeit not maybe an innovative composition. Now, why did I start saying that this is a peculiar perfume… I read that nowadays the use of ambergris is replaced by synthetics in perfumery, and that the original substance, fresh, had presumably a … faecal odour. Well Histoires de Parfums has managed to recreate, to my nose at least, some of that odour so subtly blended that could very easily be taken as earthy pungency. I guess that this is what occidentals have attached to and associated with oriental exoticism in too strong, sensual, almost “dirty” perfumes. The dry down of Amber 114 is sweet and olfactory (the musk might also have a role in this) but maybe because of its earthiness, woodiness and subtle sourness it is also fascinating. If you ever come across Amber 114 give it a cautious go… and good luck. 23rd July, 2010. |
| | Tubereuse 3 L’Animale by Histoire de ParfumsAnimale… I can’t be sure but the minute I put on Animale, it reminded me of Mitsouko. So much so that I looked up and tried to compare the notes. I am not an expert so I still can’t be sure if there is a strong relation or not. I read among others: prune, tabac blond and immortelle in Animale, and peach, jasmine, underbrush and vetiver in Mitsouko; it is all hocus pocus to me, nevertheless Animale is subtler and less citrusy than Mitsouko… in a way a lighter version … and yet there is no tubéreuse in Mitsouko! The dry down of Animale is woody, smoky, and a bit spicy, and it is much more to my liking than its earlier stages. Overall, I think I like Animale because I like Mitsouko, and maybe, just maybe, could wear this a bit more often than the Guerlain Holy Grail. 21st July, 2010. |
| | Tubereuse 2 La Virginale by Histoire de ParfumsVirginale starts with a burst of something that could be the mandarin top note, but soon after foregrounds the mid note of Jasmin along witha hint of frangipani, but it is the jasmine that I think becomes central. After an hour or so vanilla comes into the picture and lingers on and on, all the while the milky sweetness of tubéreuse provides a heady base upon which Virginale evolves. Overall, Virginale is well made and intriguing. I wouldn’t wear it casually (there is nothing casual about it), but I would save it for very special occasions. There is an interesting undertone to the dry down of this concoction: while I consider Virginale to be more suitable for winter wear I can, nevertheless imagine it lingering in the air at a summer night by the sea somewhere around the Mediterranean. 20th July, 2010. |
| | Tubereuse 1 La Capricieuse by Histoire de ParfumsLa Capricieuse left me unimpressed. On my skin it smelled like a heady, sweet concoction that only after the first long overpowering effect mellows out into a milky sweetness. It has great staying power but I only like it after a couple (or more) of hours. La Capricieuse didn’t attract any positive attention from those near me either. Overall, this is another rich offering from Histoires de Parfums; so rich though that it risks being "all over the place." 20th July, 2010. |
| | 1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoire de ParfumsI wanted so much to like this (1969 being my year of birth); alas I can barely stand it. The opening is pretty intense, warm and sweet. The more time goes by the more sure I get that this much praised offering from Histoires de Parfums is not for me. We are promised chocolate and coffee at the base and indeed it is getting there but to me it feels more like intense vanilla. Overall I agree that 1969 is a very well made "gourmand" the kind I could possibly appreciate on others but wouldn’t like to wear myself. Maybe I should try 1969 again in winter time! 14th July, 2010. |
| | 1828 by Histoire de ParfumsI tested 1828 very briefly at a little boutique in Soho, NYC. I couldn’t make up my mind: I thought that it was very special (a bit Comme des Garcons but not quite) but still I wasn’t sure about the dry down. I didn’t get the chance to go back to that boutique again and at the big department stores they had never heard of Histoires de Parfums. After returning home I got my own sample of 1828 which I am wearing right now… and I feel like I am bewitched by it. Incense yes there is; but it is the tartness of hesperides that I think is superb. It is that tartness that compensates the lack of dryness I always look for in citrusy fragrances. 1828 is not dry but it is bitter on my skin and I love it. Its longevity may not be a killer but it doesn’t disappoint me either. Overall this is a thumbs up for me! 14th July, 2010. |
| | Tango by AftelierThis is a review in Trevért which I don't find in the directory. 15th April, 2010. |
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