My bottle is the ribbed rectangular splash from the late 1950s or early 1960s. The juice is a grassy green, which I surmise is the proper color. I’ve smelled similar bottles with dark yellow juice and while still superb, the carnation is not would it should be. BC was available in EdT, EdC, and Parfum concentrations. This review is for the Eau de Toilette.
Derby was originally launched in 1983 as the second masterpiece of the now disgraced Jean Paul Guerlain (his first being Habit Rouge). He released numerous feminine scents, but like the Guerlains who preceded him, his real talent was creating gentlemanly perfumes.
Smelling the legendary Iris Gris, after long last, is one of the highlights of my fragrance career. I immediately noticed upon first unwrapping the wax paper that it is soft, smooth, and light—three things we don’t often see with today’s iris fragrances beating you over the head either with synthetic iris (the perfumer thinks you don’t know what iris smells like) or beating you over the head with the real thing—naked, exposed, and bare (the perfumer wants to show you how much natural iris he has used without regard to fragrance itself). I, of course, prefer the latter approach as in Iris Silver Mist.
At first blush, I would categorize Nuit de Chine as an oriental fougere and its similarity to Mouchoir de Monsieur is uncanny though not unusual as they were released within eight years of each other and probably of popular style at the time.
Let me first say that Eau de Kananga is a brilliant but not mind-blowing scent. Eau de Kananga, at least the Rigaud version, is not a feminine fragrance and in reality a unisex if not exclusively masculine fragrance. Kananga, named for the Japanese ylang, is a leading example of old world refinement and minimalism. Kananga reminds me of a old French soap containing bracing lavender, deep and dark citrus, spice, and musk. That is exactly what Kananga is: an example of the soapy clean gentleman of the inter-war period. It, of course, does not last long in likely an eau de cologne concentration with a good whack of natural ingredients. The French version of DR Harris's Arlington perhaps?
Mt guess as to the notes:
Lavender, lemon, bergamot, verbena
Carnation/clove, ylang, jasmine, neroli, orris, geranium
Note that the original formula for Kananga Water contained cassie and jonquil, though I do not really smell them here.
SMN Garofano is a realistic and beautifully orchestrated carnation perfume. It is strong, spicy, and heady with floral overtones. Garofano is spicy, but not as spicy as Caron's Coup de Fouet. It is more floral and a bit sweeter. Quite good, but the only downside is the use of synthetic chemical to extend the floral aspect of the carnation long into the base.