5/5 - I haven't taken the time to review a fragrance in quite a long time, but I felt I needed to add one for PoaL. This is probably the finest in the Malle lineup, rivaling Vetiver Extraordinaire, another D. Ropion composition.
What makes it so brilliant is that the longevity is incredible and the sillage is just perfect. It is rose, spice, woods and oud in perfect harmony - never too synthetic or brash, just perfect. A little goes a VERY long way. I'm rather shocked that someone could find the longevity lacking, as 30 hours and a thorough shower didn't rid me of its sublime dry-down.
This, along with Creed's vintage formulation of Fleur de The Rose Bulgare, are the finest, most perfect rose fragrances ever (sorry Nahema, Rose 31, DC 1913, etc. etc.!)
01st December, 2009 (last edited: 13th December, 2013)
I always feel at a bit of a loss when I'm writing a review that follows such creative, wonderful input from others who have a vernacular and understanding that I'm still striving to achieve. What I hope is to do this fragrance justice with this review.
PG Cuir d'Iris is the winner of the PG line from what I've tried thus far (most of them). Some had said it could be difficult to warm up to the top notes but to hang in for the dry-down. What I get in the top notes is a brisk (but not sharp) fine, fine leather - probably one of the most *accurate and comfortable* renditions of leather I've tried. This is what expensive leather smells like, most definitely. Cuir d'Iris is truly a masterpiece - it achieves such a divine, realistic leather with a perfect blend of other notes without, for a second, smelling cheap, synthetic or contrived.
Even after having a bottle for a couple of months and a sample for a month before that I'm still finding gorgeous notes in Cuir d'Iris after subsequent wearings. Could this be one of the best applications of iris in a fragrance to date? Possibly. I don't find there is much powder to it - it is smoky and it does have a gorgeous amber in the dry-down. Longevity is spectacular while sillage is comfortable and just about right.
This is an absolutely elegant, refined and classy leather fragrance that almost defies categorization as a "leather fragrance" when comparing with others out there. I'm not sure I would call this one a dark leather, like vintage Antaeus. There is no dark, earthy vetiver to anchor it and give it darkness. Instead it is a warm, sensuous amber and yes, gourmand notes. I feel ambitious and confident wearing Cuir d'Iris, and I seriously doubt I'll ever grow tired of it.
This review is for the vintage Bel Ami in the 'cocktail shaker' bottle.
If I could give it 6 stars I would, and it's really my pleasure to be writing what I can as a testament to this beautiful fragrance. Bel Ami is the epitome of elegance, highlighting 3 of my favorite accords (leather, sandalwood and vetiver).
When I first got a sample from a good friend of mine I fell in love almost instantly. I was able to detect those 3 beautiful notes almost right away, though this isn't to say Bel Ami isn't well-blended. There was a major surprise for me in that with its incredible longevity it morphed into this gorgeous vetiver akin to MPG Route de Vetiver (vintage) on my skin - though softer, warmer.
Longevity is superb - sillage is just about perfect with a few sprays to key areas. It has been said that Bel Ami doesn't take many risks... it doesn't need to. I think it works best for formal/semi-formal but I've worn it with a t-shirt and jeans and loved it just the same. This will be a "holy grail" fragrance for many people. I put it right next to L'Instant PH, Creed BdP and Vetiver Extraordinaire for "versatile elegance with tolerable opulence". 5/5
I find this is actually wonderful in the summer. Maybe not for a day at the beach, but the citrus opening is delightful. Longevity isn't fantastic, but the dry-down certainly is. I wrote my review for the Extreme version - of which I was able to appreciate the dry-down a bit more.
L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme is one of the easiest fragrances. A "go to" for a day at the office, a job interview, etc. The sillage certainly isn't overpowering and I think it's unquestionably masculine and maintains its status as a fantastic gourmand without being synthetic/cloying or too "edible". I'll also say that the bottles are substantial, heavy glass with a great design. A wardrobe staple!!
I thought this was discontinued, but I was happily mistaken and tracked down a bottle. At $1 per ml it's probably one of the better values I've ever come across in terms of fragrances. Tiffany for Men could easily be sold for twice the price - maybe three times the price.
As it opens you notice bergamot, a bit of lavender and this really wonderful cedar. I don't get the florals as much in lieu of spice, but the dry-down is one of the nicest sandalwood + vanilla/amber ever.
Yes, it is probably best suited for formal, evening wear and not an "everyday" fragrance only because it's very special. It would also appeal more to a mature audience due to its classic tone. One thing it isn't, however, is dated.
I'll reiterate that Jacques Polge is a genius and that I hope this one is never reformulated or discontinued. Two thumbs way up for Tiffany for Men.
L'Instant PH Extreme? It's a work of art and one of the easiest fragrances to wear. I believe it to be utterly masculine and fairly conservative, though that shouldn't be a barrier for folks who don't like those genres.
You'll find many people reviewing the Extreme version (EDP) in the L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme (EDT). The sillage is about the same on both, though the longevity of the Extreme is spectacular. I also agree that there is less focus on citrus in the Extreme and more on the warm, woody notes - cocoa, sandalwood, etc.
I own both the original and the Extreme, as I find the differences substantial enough to justify both. It wasn't too difficult for me to find it. My only one small gripe is that the sillage on both L'Instant PH (EDT) and L'Instant PH Extreme (EDP) isn't breathtaking. But that is easily forgiven. Spectacular.
Edit: I did not see there were 2 others who had submitted reviews before me. My apologies to these members!
15th July, 2009 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)
Many years ago I remember a girl I know wearing a vanilla fragrance. It wasn't expensive, but I remember thinking to myself - THIS smells really good. Maybe it was "Vanilla Fields"? A drug store fragrance I believe.
Then Versace's "The Dreamer" came out, and I remember thinking it was absolutely stunning. I think it made me comfortable wearing fragrances with vanilla notes.
SDV is a gorgeous creation that I cherish, though in small amounts. As lavish as it might sound - I also think it would be perfect for layering with another Guerlain fragrances to "amp up" the vanilla and make for a spectacular dry-down. I'm thinking L'Instant + SDV, but haven't tried that yet. It's great on its own.
As for the fragrance itself - I don't get anything sour from it at all. In fact, I find it's quite sweet.. definitely boozy, and somehow dry at the same time. I can't smell floral in it and I've found that it's fairly linear in nature. This is a good thing. It's potent, as an EDP, and is probably one of the more truly unisex fragrances of all time. The bottle and box/presentation are beautiful - like a fine cognac.
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 24th January, 2011)
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 24th January, 2011)
Rose 31 is my first Le Labo fragrance, recommended to me by a friend who had to twist my arm a bit to give it a shot. I'm glad I did!
This is the first rose fragrance I really took seriously, having been under the assumption that all rose fragrances were feminine and uncomfortable for a guy to wear. The image I had was an old lady splashing rosewater or smearing rose moisturizer all over her skin. Not exactly an image I wanted to evoke or portray.
But Rose 31, like many have said, isn't really about the rose so much. Yes, it's there - but it's blended enough to become palatable for those who have a rose phobia. The sillage is great in the first two hours, or so. Longevity is 6 hours on me which is just about right.
The dry-down is the nicest part of Rose 31. It's classy, elegant and refined. Everybody should try this - especially men, as there are elements of incense and woods that show up during the development that are unquestionably masculine.
Don't let rose phobia keep you away. Rose 31 will be a staple in my wardrobe, perhaps not as my favorite rose as I discover some other beauties, but I won't deny its greatness.
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)
I promised myself before rating anything with a Thumb's Down, I'd give some solid reasons for doing so. Especially Profumum, which is a great house.
With Acqua di Sale I don't even know where to start. Something right from the start was totally repulsive, and I don't care what it was. I don't get the marine, the aquatic, anything... just a headache and a bit of nausea.
Those who enjoy it - kudos. I'm not sure what exactly there is to enjoy.
I don't like it, but I don't totally hate it. It's just completely forgettable and smells cheap.
I'm not going to evaluate the celeb behind the celebrity fragrance, as that's not really the point, is it? But I wanted to say this much - why would HE even allow his name to be put on such a mediocre, forgettable fragrance?
When I sampled this I had to ask myself.. why is it I like this one so much? At the time it was one of the oddest fragrances I'd ever worn, but I was really drawn in by the combination of the spice, pepper and mint.
This is part of Villoresi's "Fantasy Fragrance" line, which I think helped me a lot with falling for it. It's a dreamy fragrance that I can't imagine wearing often (and I don't). When I do I really enjoy it, and have received many compliments.
You can't go wrong with Lorenzo Villoresi, in that the quality is certainly there and the price is reasonable. I wouldn't recommend Piper Nigrum for a fragrance newbie or someone who doesn't have an open mind. The odd time I've sprayed it and then thought.. ah, that's not what I wanted today. I wish I could say I've fully figured this one out. It's been over a year now since my full bottle purchase and I'm still finding aspects of it I love more and more. A gem.
Though I no longer have it in my wardrobe, I still consider VE to be one of the finest niche fragrances ever created. I will probably see to it that I obtain another bottle some day.
It took me a while to really appreciate VE after having been familiar with a much less "potent", citrus-based vetiver fragrance. There is a bit of a rubbery note that quickly disappears.. leaving earthy, raw vetiver and woods. I wasn't aware of MPG Route de Vetiver before VE - only Guerlain Vetiver, Creed's OV and Vetiver '48, Givenchy Vetyver, etc.
I was lucky enough to purchase my big bottle of VE during the season it fits with best - autumn. The rain, mist, fog and walks through the forest seemed so appropriate whilst wearing VE. VE is strikingly melancholy yet uplifting at the same time. Not fresh in the way Aqua di Gio is fresh, not at all.. I shouldn't even bring AdG up. True, pure, green, earthy freshness that you're probably familiar with if you've spent lots of time outdoors walking through forests and taking in the smells of nature.
The longevity is great, sillage was OK on my skin. Absolutely I would recommend it, and I feel it's worth every penny and then some. Probably in my Top 5 fragrances of all time. Probably my favorite vetiver of all time, easily blowing most of the others away.
Fumidus was a scrubber for me. As much as I love the raw vetiver in MPG RdV and Frederic Malle's VE, the smoke in this fragrance just really blows me away. It smells a bit like a stale, half-smoked cigar drenched in scotch.. over top of a great, raw vetiver. It's just a bit too dirty - I wish there was something in here to temper it a bit.
I like robust, woodsy, dark, incense fragrances..even smokey fragrances (Malle's Bois d'Orage). I love vetiver, and the vetiver in Fumidus is of outstanding quality, but I hate the other notes that accompany it. Now if all of this intrigues you, I can tell you that you will certainly get a long-lasting fragrance with plenty of sillage and longevity from Fumidus.
Folks often note that Profumum uses extremely high quality ingredients. Though I'm not able to appreciate Fumidus, I still find it remarkable that the same house that produced it also created "Vanitas", "Dulcis in Fundo" and "Acqua Viva". Such diversity and beauty.
Well the longevity and sillage were absolutely unbelievable on me. Linear, yes.. but one tiny spray from a small atomizer and I was good to go for 16+ hours. This is so rare for me - in fact I'd say that 99% of fragrances don't last anything close to as long as TV on my skin.
You have to be a vanilla fan (tonka bean) to enjoy this - no doubt about it. There was mention of the vanilla scented candles that I could relate to a bit, though the vanilla in TV is of higher quality and doesn't smell nasty, though it does smell synthetic.
Price isn't absurd when you consider one.. TWO small sprays at most.. will last you as long as TV does. Probably my favorite from the Tom Ford Private Blend. I can see it really shining in colder weather. In warmer weather this fragrance was a total turn-off. Somebody I knew who sampled it described it as "dirty vanilla". After the last time I wore it I'm forced to agree. This is one I did a total 180 on and won't be returning to.
27th May, 2009 (last edited: 10th March, 2010)
I believe one reviewer used the word "sparkling" for this fragrance. Absolutely bang on. I think of it as a complex, much superior Acqua di Parma Colonia. This says a lot seeing how AdP is a classic. LV Uomo is a classic as well, through and through. In my wardrobe it has replaced AdP and I won't look back, personally. Very Italian insofar as the citrus/spice combo with the subdued herbal element.
The first sprays give way to herbal/citrus - verbena/lemon? Very, very nice. Then I detect the vetiver and woods, which really hold the fragrance together. Vetiver is the key player and to have the other beautiful ingredients blended with it so nicely gives Uomo complexity and class. Sandalwood, is that you? Gorgeous.
When I was sampling this fragrance at first the spice turned me off a bit. I guess it was before I understood the Villoresi "trademark" spice notes you find in most of his fragrances. I could see how someone might dismiss this fragrance because of the spicy aspect.
I purchased Uomo after purchasing LV Vetiver and can honestly say that both of these really deliver. Longevity on Uomo isn't fantastic on my skin, whereas Vetiver is above average in terms of lasting power. This isn't a concern for me. Once you wear Uomo you'll understand what I mean - it's perfectly balanced and very nicely put together. I find it's glorious in the summer.
My search for the perfect citrus fragrance continues, though I think I use Uomo as a benchmark as I continue sampling. It's something I will replace when I run out. I can also say that fans of this fragrance who use shower gel MUST try the shower gel. It's the highest quality shower gel I've ever seen - a thick, luxurious treat.
SMW is a great fragrance.. though it falls under the category of fragrances that I admire but just can't wear. The lovely floral element to it really separates it from Green Irish Tweed or Himalaya, let's say.
Unfortunately, for me, the floral side of it was too dominant and I felt uncomfortable at times wearing it. Perhaps I was trying too hard, as I recall when SMW came out I tried it at Neiman Marcus and wasn't impressed.
This is worn more by men than women it seems, though I'm not quite sure why that is. It is completely unisex with something I think could be very appealing to women. The "ink note" is neat to me.. as is the "petrol" opening (found in MI as well). The dry down is prominent ambergris and violet to my nose.
Longevity and silage were merely average on my skin, sad to say it. This was not the case with a different batch I sampled at one point. I have to give it credit for its development - it starts strong, develops beautifully, but ends up fairly mediocre on me.. and then it's gone.
I think it's a beautiful creation and one that I might come back to at some point. At this point I'm a bit more taken by other Creed offerings.
A little too fruity and not aquatic enough for me.. certainly nothing like Erolfa.. and NOTHING like Millesime Imperial or GIT. Bvlgari Aqva is another worth mentioning when it comes to marine/aquatics.
I didn't enjoy wearing it - it didn't develop on my skin and I had the feeling it was a bit too feminine for my tastes. Fruit punch maybe?
A nice fragrance, just not my bag.
I haven't tried all of the vetiver fragrances out there yet.. but I've been wearing LV Vetiver for over a year now and there are days I wake up and actually crave it.
To me it's raw, totally masculine, and "fresh" without being sweet or aquatic, or too dirty and earthy. A gem.
I love this fragrance.. absolutely adore it, in fact, and feel it is a gentleman's classic. Fabric (my shirt collars) hold it very nicely, though it disappears on my skin and doesn't have any projection whatsoever - even with many sprays (5-7).
When I got the EDP version I thought it would surely have some potency to it. Not at all... in fact I can't tell the difference, as other reviewers have mentioned.
If it wasn't so fleeting and projected it would easily be a thumb's up. Unfortunately it's a neutral rating for me because I feel the EDP failed in terms of offering even a slight improvement in longevity and silage.
When I first tried BdP on my actual skin it was a few days before Christmas - an unusually cold and snowy season this year on the west coast. I'd tried BdP on spray cards in stores over the years but never had I decided to actually apply it to my skin.
So I did.. and I was blown away - Bois du Portugal is pure elegance. Not only does it whisk me away into a world of luxury and true, classic style - I feel comfortable wearing it. I don't see myself wearing this one for casual occasions, but it has to be THE #1 formal fragrance. I will never get tired of this one, as it reinvents itself every time I wear it.
The longevity? Superb. Sillage? Superb. Price? You get what you pay for, bottom line.
I think people who label a fragrance as "old man" or "outdated" need to broaden their horizons. Be skeptical of the folks who write these things - I would challenge those peoples' sense of appreciation for the finer things in life after writing something like that.. but everyone is entitled to his/her opinion.
Now I can't imagine being without a bottle of this masterpiece and I think every positive review here is justified. Wear this classic fragrance in good health and enjoy the vivid journey from glorious start to finish!
24th January, 2009 (last edited: 21st July, 2009)
The whole presentation of EA White left me absolutely unsatisfied.
11th October, 2007 (last edited: 24th January, 2011)
[Under Construction] - Original Review Under Revision - Currently Sampling
11th October, 2007 (last edited: 23rd September, 2009)
Quite simply, a paradoxical triumph - Fou d'Absinthe is gentle yet provocative, pure yet complex... Out of the entire L'Artisan collection, this was the one I HAD to have. It has everything going for it - impressive longevity for such a delicate fragrance, and incredible versatility for wear. One of the most inviting fragrances I currently own.
This one has absolutely nothing to it.. it is totally unremarkable in every way, shape and form. That said, it's not offensive per se, - but it IS offensive to me in the way that it's just so mundane.