Perfume Reviews

Reviews by erichtonius


Old English Lavender Water by D.R. Harris & co.

A delightful and true english lavender from old time, with a light musc base.
10th July, 2012

Acqua di Lavanda Ambrata / Amber Lavender by Santa Maria Novella

"Lavanda Ambrata", is a great lavender with a sweet amber base note which makes it more pleasant to wear during the day than "Imperial Lavender", a dry lavender water which is better for a non-fragrance day or to perfume an handkerchief. I particularly enjoy "Lavanda ambrata" on the countryside where a more sophisticated fragrance would be inappropriate. It could remind you "Pour un Homme" by Caron.
26th May, 2011

Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

Eau du Sud is a very sophisticated citrus chypre perfume. It could remind you Eau Sauvage, another citrus chypre fragrance, but there is a world between the two. Eau du Sud is not only more complex : its pleasant and evocative association of fresh citrus and herbs notes with a hint of jasmine and lavender, its deep and sophisticated chypre base with a distinct note of true vetiver, like an old french chypre perfume of 1900 or 1920, give an impression of refinement. That makes Eau du Sud a very interesting fragrance, much more than Eau d'Hadrien.
21st April, 2009 (last edited: 03rd July, 2012)
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Eau d'Hadrien by Annick Goutal

Eau d'Hadrien is not just another citrus fragrance. The unusual grapefruit note, but light and well balanced with lemon, citrus blossom and cypress, reminds me an enchanting spring morning on the Riviera. It is not sweet as an Eau de Cologne, overflowing of orange blossom water; but sharper and smarter. Eau d'Hadrien is for me the best composition of Annick Goutal, and deserves its place beside "Bois de Cedrat" by Creed, a lemony fragrance I love.
21st April, 2009 (last edited: 28th February, 2010)

Extract of Limes by Penhaligon's

A great classic lime-lemon of the end of the 19th c. Far better than Trumper's West Indian Lime (very good too, but just like a lemon juice). Here, lime extract is followed by crisp citrus notes of tangerine, petitgrain bigarade and bergamote. At this time, it's very close to the great Creed's 'Bois de Cédrat' (1875). But 'Cédrat' stays crisp and dry with its cedar base, whereas 'Limes' goes sweeter, with a soapy (very Penhaligon's) sandalwood, musc and orange blossom base. A great lemon fragrance, soon relaunched in 2008-2009.
20th November, 2008 (last edited: 24th November, 2008)

Classic Cologne by D.R. Harris & co.

Fresh and tonic lime cologne with herbal notes, not so classic today.
15th November, 2008 (last edited: 09th July, 2012)

Lavender by Floris

One of the best English Lavender, with D. R. Harris and Pennhaligon's.. but sadly discontinued this year. Why ? A so great and successful fragrance..
20th September, 2008

Rose Bouquet by D.R. Harris & co.

This wonderful light and traditional Rose cologne is discontinued.
20th September, 2008

Colonia Russa by Santa Maria Novella

"Colonia Russa" is a very nice citrus fragrance, with a great neroli heart note, a hint of rose and a light oriental leather base with a patchouli note. It is a very classic yet subtle cologne for neroli lovers, far better than any other neroli cologne I could found.
16th July, 2008 (last edited: 26th May, 2011)

Néroli by Annick Goutal

The real scent of bitter orange blossom - Exhilarating, quite intoxicating ; maybe too feminine, I don't know. I believed that 'Zagara' by S.M.Novella would be like this one, in a lighter way, very neroli ; but it's not. This one is one of the best Neroli I have sent.
16th July, 2008

Eau du Coq by Guerlain

Eau du Coq is a true cologne : it's not long lasting. It's just a fresh citrus water for a summer morning, a perfect perfume for a very hot day in Italy or in Provence. The opening is already different from the classical Eau de Cologne (the best and true original is from Farina Genenüber), with lavender and rosemary notes which quite immediately balence the citrus and bergamote top notes to an aromatic citrus blend, lighly enhanced by a neroli note, then enriched by the light woody and tonka bean base (guerlain signature). It's much more suitable for men than 'Eau Impériale', which is also very good and refresching, but without these woody aromatic notes. Eau du Coq is ever smart in its freshness, never common.
14th July, 2008

Lavanda Imperiale / Imperial Lavender by Santa Maria Novella

I love this pure and refreshing lavender in the end of the day, or at the countryside. It's the only lavender fragrance which truly smells like a lavender bouquet from a Provence garden. This lavender has not these spicy and heavy notes of classic English Lavender. It's a very simple fragrance, yet elegant and distinguish in its simplicity, but not as rich and smart as CREED's "Royal Scottish Lavender", or feminine and floral like FLORIS's own "Lavender". SMN's "Lavanda Imperiale" is a casual and classic fragrance.
31st May, 2008

Pot Pourri by Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella produces the best pot-pourris. I was afraid to wear "Pot-pourri" as a frangrance, but it's wonderful. It's aromatic and spiced, quite medicial at the opening, but very sweet and smart : a classic fragrance, as Eau de Cologne "Santa Maria Novella" in another way.
18th April, 2008 (last edited: 30th June, 2008)
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Rose by Santa Maria Novella

This Rose scent is extraordinary. Made from Provence rose, "Rosa centifolia", rather than Damask roses from Bulgaria (usually "Trigintipetalia"). Creed's "Fleurs de Bulgarie" is close to this, but more floral and heady.
It's not a very masculine fragrance as perfume, but it's wonderful as toileteries scent (soap, aftershave etc.). However, I do not recommand SMN's cosmetics : too much bad ingredients for skin and health - natural rose cosmetics from Dr Hauschka or Weleda are the best.
18th April, 2008

Opôné by Diptyque

I loved it. But very hard to wear all a day long. It's better as a home scent..
26th October, 2007

Philosykos by Diptyque

one of the best fig fragrance. But, could be wearisome..
26th October, 2007

L'Eau by Diptyque

Their very best fragrance, authentic and original. made from 16th c. pomander and pot-pourri.
26th October, 2007

Santa Maria Novella by Santa Maria Novella

L'Eau de Cologne Santa Maria Novella, originally 'Eau de la Reine' made for Catherine de Medicis, reine de France, is the very original Eau de Cologne. And the only one for me with its subtil white flower notes, and dominant mix of bergamote, citrus and neroli.
26th October, 2007

Malmaison by Floris

Malmaison is one of my favourite fragrance ! But.. I'm not a woman. The very spicy clove note makes it a very unclassic masculine scent. Floris does not present Malmaison as a fragrance for woman.
24th October, 2007