Perfume Reviews

Reviews by JackTwist

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Total Reviews: 1412

La Pluie by Bourbon French Parfums

Bourbon French Perfumes – LA PLUIE

A relatively simple composition with only four notes revealed, La Pluie (Rain), is feminine to the extreme. The naturally sharp and pungent fragrance of fresh muguet is lovingly softened by a restrained mixture of tuberose, vanilla and musk.

This is a somewhat heavy fragrance and would best be worn in the winter. It is a fragrance for the mature woman and is perhaps suited to personal use and social events, as in an office environment it could come across as cloying.

A little bit goes a long way, so judicial use keeps it from making too bold a statement, while at the same time economizes use.

Quite lovely, soft and sweet, very old-fashioned in a good sense, and recommended.
26th November, 2019

Fugue by Roger & Gallet

Roger and Gallet – FUGUE (1932)

Fugue is a most interesting name for a perfume. I so loved R&G’s Partir, another interesting moniker, that I just had to try this. As per the seller, whose vintage quarter ounce parfum I purchased, it is a “beautiful woodsy chypre.”

Deep, dark, soft and warm, it suggests the rich scents from the houses of Lanvin (Arpege, Mon Peche) and Weil (Antilope, Zibeline) of the 1920s and 1930s. It has an “almost” leather accord, stopping just short of the animalic quality we expect from a leather. The galbanum gives it a fresh, almost spicy impression, unlike the “green” note we are used to. The cedar and patchouli smell as fresh as tomorrow. It is certainly a masterpiece of blending.

The musical fugue form with melody and counterpoint overlapping in its development, certainly suggest how the notes perform, starting as one impression, then evolving over time to form new experiences of the same combinations. Most intriguing and most deliciously wearable for both men and women. A real shame it is discontinued. Like R&G’s take on tobacco, Cigalia, this is a treasure sadly gone by. Lovers of chypres and leather chypres in particular should take notice.

Top notes are Bergamot, Neroli, Orange Blossom, and Lemon
Heart notes are Rose, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Oak Moss, and Labdanum
Base notes are Galbanum, Sandalwood, Cedar, Patchouli, Vetiver, and Ambergris
18th November, 2019

Wonderlust by Michael Kors

KORS – WONDERLUST

A very simplistic scent, supposedly made up of almond, heliotrope and benzoin. I believe heliotrope’s scent cannot be extracted from the flower itself, so most heliotrope scents “suggest” the vanilla-like aroma the flower produces.

Wonderlust is very chemically oriented, no pure oils in use here. It smells pleasant enough at the start, but develops a medicinal note in the dry down (a common occurrence in benzoin) that allows it to go bitter and herbal.

It’s not awful, just not very good at all. Took probably five seconds to think it up and another five to put it together. Not to be sought out. I wonder what induced Kors to surround it with flankers?
17th November, 2019
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Vera Violetta by Roger & Gallet

Roger & Gallet – Vera Violetta (1892)

Basenoter Glitteralex tells us in the only other review for this scent that it is an “iconic fragrance, given its status as the first commercial use of violet flower-scented alpha and beta ionones.”

Violet scented perfumes have been with us since at least the Napoleonic era. “The Duchess of Parma, Napoleon’s second wife Maria Louise of Austria, is often associated with the demand for violet fragrances, and perfumers of that time pioneered the extraction of the violet flower’s scent in the early 1800s. ‘Vera Violetta' was an operetta, with a libretto by Louis Stein and music by Edmund Eysler, additional music by George M. Cohan, Jean Schwartz and Louis A. Hirsch, about the flirtatious wife of a professor. Vera Violetta was the name both of her Roger & Gallet perfume and a waltz which celebrated it.”– Alexandra Star

Vera Violetta is in and of itself certainly a very true violet scent, dry, powdery and intensely floral. It has a deep, somewhat resinous, suede-like softness, subdued, gentle, subtle, enfolding, and elegant. It is amazing that it is so powerful after all these years, my sample being taken from a nineteenth century bottle. It is a scent both men and women can feel comfortable wearing, as it sits close to the skin and does not project. A certain intimacy is required in order to detect it.

The notes, beyond the violet flower and violet leaf, if there are any, are difficult for my nose to detect. Glitteralex detects “musk or ambergris, possibly laudanum.” I can only make out the gentlest of musks as a base, although the suede impression may indicate a judicious use of orris root.

This wonderful creation is miraculously available from a private seller on the internet in its original bottle, certainly of interest to the vintage perfume lover as well as the collector of nineteenth century perfume bottles. Highly recommended.



16th November, 2019

Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare by Creed

Creed – Fleur de The Rose Bulgare

First of all, I must refer Basenoters to the excellent and comprehensive review by Zealot Crusader.

My first reaction was to the name itself, since the Bulgarian Rose is a Damask variety and not of the “Tea Rose” variety, immediately confusing the issue in my brain. A look at the very simple note tree alleviates that problem in that the “tea” in the name does not refer to the variety, but to the addition of green tea to this formula.

Second reaction is that green tea was not a perfume ingredient back in 1890 when this supposedly debuted, which puts to the lie the date assigned by Creed. Zealot Crusader clears this up in noting that what I have here is a 2000 recreation of the original scent, not the original 1890 formula.

Whew! Now on to the scent itself. While so many reviewers find this to be a deep, dark, rose scent, I do not. I find it to be a light and refreshing rose with a slightly sharp center, and to my nose it is not Bulgarian Damask, but a real tea rose I am getting. Tea rose is unique in its combination of an apricot roundness with a sharp rose note and very green under notes. I know Damask and I know Tea and what I get here is the impression of a true tea rose, not a Damask, Bulgarian or otherwise.

I did get a passing whiff of green tea in the opening, but it disappears quickly. There may be Bulgarian Damask rose in the mix, but is not the scent I am experiencing at the heart of this creation.

So, I am as confused now as I was before I opened my decant. Still, all in all, it is a superb rose, although quite linear. As an indication of its strength, I never get the one base note, Ambergris, which is usually so prevalent in all Creed creations.

A beautiful rose, which by whatever name it wishes to go by, still smells as sweet.
13th November, 2019

Mon Chéri by Gabilla

Gabilla – Mon Cherie (1910)

I am experiencing a vintage bottle from the 1930s, although the scent was created in 1910. This is the first Gabilla scent (she created over 125) that I have sampled. As expected, it is a rich, deep, dark, floral chypre – extremely fragrant after all these years and so smoothly blended that no single note (from its eleven oils) stands out.

It manages to do the impossible, to seem both bright and dark simultaneously. The undercurrent is reminiscent of L’Heure Bleue, with its vanilla/tonka/amber accord of cookie dough. Yet it is still vibrant and heady with its jasmine, musk and opopanax. (Opopanax is also known as sweet myrrh and imparts a warm, honeyed, smokey, powdery, balsamic quality.) The dryness of the orris lends a suede-like aura as well. This was certainly an era that did not stint on quality or quantity of pure aromatic oil bases in its perfume creations. The dry down has the effect of a leather/tobacco combination. Perfectly unisex by today’s standards and I imagine equally irresistible on both men and women.

Truly a unique and luxurious treasure, which I purchased on line from a stellar perfumista. I believe there is still one left. Hint to the lover of fine vintage perfumes.

20th October, 2019

L'Interdit (2018 version) by Givenchy

Givenchy – Interdit (2018 version)

The original of Interdit, containing 18 ingredients, made no impression at all on my nose. So subtle as to be undetectable.

The new version, containing but five ingredients (Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Tuberose, Vetiver, Patchouli) is hardly subtle, nor does it contain any of the five named that are recognizable to my nose. What it does scream out is “ANGEL COPY.”

Yes, a fruitier (if that were possible) version of the original Angel, but with all of Angel’s juices firmly in place.

This is a screamer, a screecher if you will, and only the truly bold and brave may apply. Were this not a copy, I would give it high praise, but as a blatant copy with no originality, all it can muster from me is a neutral.

Too bad I can’t recommend the original vintage either. Interdit in any form just doesn’t cut the mustard, though anything to cut this rather shrill scent would have been welcome.

09th October, 2019

Twilly d'Hermès by Hermès

Hermes – Twilly (2017)

A bright, fruity floral with a blast of ginger and bergamot to start, followed by a candy-like tuberose, laid over a chemical sandalwood, slightly redolent of a quiet oud in the background. The fruity effect whispers memories of Angel in the dry down.

Actually, not bad, as one would expect from the least of Hermes. This is a house that for me may not always please, but never disgusts. Hermes maintains a decent standard in its output, such that I would never be put off from trying anything they release.

Twilly has strength, some complexity, and seems to me to be youthfully unisex. A little bit goes a long way, so judicial spritzing is in order. Not great by any means, just respectably decent. Cute bottle.
09th October, 2019

Mémoire d'une Odeur by Gucci

Gucci – Memoire d’Une Odeur (2019)

An inoffensive, but hardly significant, offering for this modern world of unenlightened perfumery. It has a powdery jasmine note, accompanied by a candied grapefruit peel vibe, that is perfectly pleasant, aimed at the young woman – I doubt a man could successfully pull this off – and as such, no better nor worse than much else available today.

It is very light, is worn close to the skin and dries down to a vanillic impression. Over all, it reminds me of the aroma found in pastry shops, those cheese Danish with apricot glaze in particular. A neutral rating from me, as I’d rather be munching one of those pastries than just smelling this.
08th October, 2019

Rose de Noël by Caron

Caron – Voeu de Noel (Rose de Noel) (1939)

This Noel goes by two different names, Voeu (Wish) and Rose, both with the same release date of 1939. It is not clear which came first or when the new name was selected, but no matter. I am therefore leaving this same review under the Basenotes entries of both scents for cross reference.

This is a rich and spicy scent, very reminiscent to my nose of Lanvin’s 1934 Rumeur, which contained almost twenty oils, and since there is no tree listing on Basenotes for either of the two incarnations of this Noel, I will be selecting what resonates from Rumeur’s similarity.

First and foremost are the carnation and clove notes, supported by dusty, barely sweet nutmeg and spicy cardamom. A very rich Bulgarian rose emerges, slightly softened by what I take to be jasmine and ylang. The base could contain any of the nine Rumeur notes; it’s very hard to tell. (For the record, these consisted of patchouli, oak moss, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, tobacco, costus and leather.) Rumeur dried down to a thick, boozy, fruity punch of peach and plum, which this Noel does not.

Although this could work well for both men and women, it is more a scent to be savored alone than in society, in one’s manor house, before the fireplace, one’s spaniel at one’s feet and one’s good single malt scotch at one’s elbow. It is at the same time spicy and comforting. Worthy of being sought out under either name. A Christmas wish come true.




22nd September, 2019

Voeu de Noël by Caron

Caron – Voeu de Noel (Rose de Noel) (1939)

This Noel goes by two different names, Voeu (Wish) and Rose, both with the same release date of 1939. It is not clear which came first or when the new name was selected, but no matter. I am therefore leaving this same review under the Basenotes entries of both scents for cross reference.

This is a rich and spicy scent, very reminiscent to my nose of Lanvin’s 1934 Rumeur, which contained almost twenty oils, and since there is no tree listing on Basenotes for either of the two incarnations of this Noel, I will be selecting what resonates from Rumeur’s similarity.

First and foremost are the carnation and clove notes, supported by dusty, barely sweet nutmeg and spicy cardamom. A very rich Bulgarian rose emerges, slightly softened by what I take to be jasmine and ylang. The base could contain any of the nine Rumeur notes; it’s very hard to tell. (For the record, these consisted of patchouli, oak moss, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, tobacco, costus and leather.) Rumeur dried down to a thick, boozy, fruity punch of peach and plum, which this Noel does not.

Although this could work well for both men and women, it is more a scent to be savored alone than in society, in one’s manor house, before the fireplace, one’s spaniel at one’s feet and one’s good single malt scotch at one’s elbow. It is at the same time spicy and comforting. Worthy of being sought out under either name. A Christmas wish come true.




22nd September, 2019

Vanisia by Creed

Creed Vanisia (1987)

A spicy sandalwood with a touch of anise greets my nose upon first application. Dry and sophisticated, yes. I await the florals, the amber, the vanilla, but none emerge.

I go back for another application on a different wrist. Same beginnings, same wait. A sudden realization. I am waiting for individual notes to emerge, but what I am experiencing Is a true blending of notes into something that is the sum of its parts, but unrecognizable as the parts themselves.

Creed’s signature ambergris is reined in and the vanilla is equally toned down. The very, very subtle rose and jasmine finally emerge shyly, but if I didn’t know they were there, I’d be hard put to identify them as such.

It is quite powdery, quite feminine, intriguingly spicy, and subtle to the extreme. Its power may lie in how it interacts with the flesh of the particular wearer. Perhaps it needs the emanating warmth of a woman’s skin to truly emerge as a perfume. On a man’s skin, it may simply lack that key wearer ingredient.

Beautifully sophisticated and ideal for wearing any time of day or year.

21st September, 2019

Rose by Caron

Caron – Rose (1949)

The Caron Rose of seventy years ago is a rich, dense, concentration of Bulgarian, May, and Centifolia oils, according to VintageVogue, the first reviewer on this page. It is to my nose a very green rose, supported by the mint and geranium notes which suggest leaf and stem as well.

I am unable to detect the base notes (vetiver, musk, sandalwood, iris, vanilla), even into the dry down. I am experiencing the extrait of a vintage bottle. It is pretty much a soliflore in my olfactory experience, despite the other notes in its scent tree. Also it registers not as any of the three roses mentioned above, but as a “tea” rose.

It is very strong and long lasting. A little dab is sufficient to create an aura. An excellent rose, not subtle or powdery as others have found. Very much an Ethel Merman of roses, for those who remember the renowned belter of Broadway tunes. An excellent base for layering. In no way unisex, entirely feminine, and for the older woman. Not a day scent, but one for theatre and opera. Again, a little dab will do.
20th September, 2019
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Eau d'Hadrien Eau de Toilette by Annick Goutal

Goutal – Eau d’Hadrien

One of the greatest eau de colognes ever created and one with a unique twist on the usual combination of citrus notes (bergamot, lemon, lime) usually contained within an edc. This adds the pungent and very dry notes of grapefruit and mandarin to its lemon center, anchoring it with the tiniest, but very unobtrusive, bit of cypress, which lends it the dryness it needs. The ylang may round it out, but I do not detect that almost always identifiable ripe banana signature note.

It is heads above all the other edcs in the market and is my very favorite of all I have experienced. Dry, Dry, Dry Citrus and the perfect summer scent, equally suitable for office, home and evening wear.

A real top drawer winner, in my estimation. If you love summery scents, and edcs in particular, don’t miss this one.


11th September, 2019

Cuir Eau de Parfum by Molinard

Cuir? I don't think so. There is nothing even suggesting leather or tobacco, let alone "precious woods" here.

What I am getting is the fruity overload of yet another Mugler Angel rip-off. Although I love the originality of the Mugler Angel, one bottle was enough to get me over the fun of wearing something "different."

This is a bit of a rip-off, stating it is a genre representative in its name, and then delivering something totally different.

As such, it is not bad – it’s just not what it claims to be. Hence the neutral rating.

Beware and sniff before you buy!


11th September, 2019

Le Mimosa by Annick Goutal

Goutal: Le Mimosa

I find that a number of so-called “mimosa” scents these days are based not on the flower, but on the cocktail, emphasizing a fizzy orange to suggest the combination of orange juice and champagne. That is what I am finding with Goutal’s Le Mimosa.

I am experiencing a combination of peachy orange with an undercurrent of cumin, none of which seems at all natural, but indeed quite chemical in origin. Of the six notes listed I experience not a one, especially not the mimosa flower absolute that is promised.

As such, it is a disappointment. Other mimosa scents I’ve tried, the Tuvache and the Bourbon French in particular, also fail to deliver, giving off a very herbal peppermint vibe with only a hint of the mimosa flower peeking through at the tail end of the experience.

I fear I must continue looking. I fell in love with the scent as it is used in the Claus Porto soap years ago, but have yet to find a perfume that does the flower justice.
24th August, 2019

Tiffany by Tiffany

Tiffany by Tiffany (1987)

I agree with “miss-little-miss” that this is “sophistication in a bottle.” It is hard for me to believe this was released in 1987, because it is such a throw-back to the great Lanvin perfumes of the 1920s through 1940s.

The blending is, as noted by other reviewers, quite masterly, delicate and well-rounded. A sumptuous blend of florals, fruits and animal/resin base notes that suggest furs at the opera, but with a light, bright top that makes me smile. A performance of Mozart’s Cosi Fan Tutti?

There is about it a reminiscence of such sumptuous orientals as Tabu, Youth Dew and Tuvara, but not as heavy handed as any of those powerful classics. It is much more refined in its composition. I consider it unisex by today’s standards.

A very good Basenotes friend gifted me with a 2 oz. bottle of the perfume, which comes in a glass bottle nestled in a gold filigree sleeve. Until this arrived I was unaware that Tiffany had produced any scents at all. It had flown completely under my radar until now.

This will be a cherished gift. Truly something of a “find” for my jaded nose. Highly recommended.

22nd July, 2019

Lilylang by Sylvaine Delacourte

Delacourte – LilyLang (2017)

With this name, one expects Lily and Ylang Ylang, does one not? No fear, no lily in sight. Might just as well have named it LimeLang or JasmineLang for that matter.

By any other names, it would still smell as …..well, a mélange.

Ylang with its banana butter effect is prominent. A coconut accord also. I am not getting tuberose, rose or jasmine, or indeed any of the three citrus scents. This really does not matter, as what I do get (the banana and the coconut) make this a tropical scent, which seems just perfect for the currently upper nineties temperatures we are experiencing in the North East this month.

The musk is pleasant but a bit too oppressive for this heat. In winter months it would most probably be just fine.

LilyLang may have its perfect incarnation as a body lotion, as opposed to an eau de parfum.

Very nice, though not outstanding. A decent little scent that makes no demands, but simply is.
21st July, 2019

Panda (2017) by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – Panda (new 2017)

Green and bitter! If the new Panda is an improvement on the original, that item must have been a real stink bomb. This has the bitterness of newly mown grass, the kind that is over long and full of moisture, coming off the mower in great green gobs.

There is the unmistakable odor of oud or agar, which this company seems to think is de rigueur for all of its base compositions, and which immediately kicks a scent out of the game for me.

This smelled so vile around the sample spray hole that I decided to do my skin a favor and spray in on porous paper first. I’m glad I did.

On my spouse’s skin the apple and mandarin are noticeable. All of the notes sound interesting in combination, but when all I can smell is one bitter note, it seems hardly worthwhile to round up fifteen of them, only to have over 90 per cent of them overwhelmed by bitter woods.

Another scrubber – that makes four out of the six I have tried. I won’t be trying any others in future.
20th July, 2019

Helicriss by Sylvaine Delacourte

Delacourte – Helicriss (2017)

I thought with the name, Helicriss, there might be some heliotrope lurking in the note tree, but no fear. This scent is dominated by Immortelle, as are most scents containing this note. The burnt caramel sugar effect blends well with the cinnamon and gives it a spiciness, made a bit dry by sage, cedar and rosemary. The citrus top notes (bergamot, lemon, grapefruit) are indistinguishable to my nose.

The base notes of tonka, patchouli, frankincense and musk provide a firm grounding for the immortelle/cinnamon mix to rest on in the dry down. Essentially, the effect is that of immortelle and cinnamon mixed with herbs.

For those who love the immortelle note, made famous as a soliflore by Goutal (Sables) in 1985, this will be a winner. For those who don’t, best to pass it by.





19th July, 2019

Rhinoceros by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – Rhinoceras (2014)

Nineteen notes make up Rhinoceras’ profile and it’s a bit of a personality disorder. Leather and tobacco jump out upon application, followed by a very dry and very green accord made bitter by agarwood. I keep waiting for the agarwood to subside and the leather/tobacco accord to return. Oddly, if smelled from a distance all I get is the leather and tobacco, but up close all I get is the bitter dry green agar. Strange that with nineteen notes, all I can smell are three.

So, ultimately for the wearer (me), it’s decidedly unpleasant, but for the other person in the room, it’s a gentle leather with supporting tobacco. I am experiencing this with my spouse, so as to get the dual perspective. I have to reject this Jekyll and Hyde concoction as I would never wear it and to keep my spouse at a distance in order to stand it does not make for a successful marriage.
18th July, 2019

Florentina by Sylvaine Delacourte

Delacourte – Florentina (2016)

Odd that a scent line calling itself “Muscs” should produce a scent without musk as one of its notes. Perhaps these scents are trying to give the “effect” of musk without actually using either real or synthetically sourced materials.

Florentina is a powdery, slightly bitter, combination of nine notes. The vetiver, iris and lavender ground it with a dry pungency and permit the bergamot, orange blossom and benzoin to float above. I don’t really experience the violet or carnation.

It has an earthy greenness to it that makes it seem more herbal than floral. Perfectly decent but not in any way mind-blowing or extraordinary. Fine for daily wear, even office wear, unobtrusive and subtle. Decent but unremarkable.

17th July, 2019

Nightingale by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – Nightingale (2016)

An impression of suede, followed by a fruity floral overlay, provides the initial reaction to Nightingale. This is very subdued on my skin and to my nose. I get no sweetness, as I would expect from plum blossom, no headiness as I would expect from rose, and no mustiness as I would expect from violet.

The nasty oud note bubbles to the surface, but is happily held down by the other multitudinous base notes, seven in all, the musk being the most predominant.

After reading the other reviews here and the note tree, I expected to be blown away by Nightingale, but I am underwhelmed. It all settles down to a dry, woody, unremarkable scent that I would have expected from a niche department store shelf from the 1980s or 1990’s, say by Elizabeth Arden or Estee Lauder.

A neutral rating from me. This one does not sing, it barely chirps.
16th July, 2019

Fendi by Fendi

FENDI (2004)

The 2004 edition of Fendi is a fruity floral with a decided sour note that is actually intriguing, the scent of fruit so ripe it is on the edge of going bad, but not just yet. It is that slightly sour bitterness that keeps Fendi from being too sweet.

The sweet freesia and orangey neroli/mandarin provide the lovely effervescent top notes, while the olaceous gardenia/tiare in the heart is balanced by the dry orris, thus providing a solid white floral middle ground.

All this is firmly supported by the soft sandalwood/vanilla base with just a touch of ambergris.

The dry down is a lovely balance of light floral and woody/vanilla notes, perfect for summer wear and quite acceptable for office wear. It is decidedly feminine, a bit too light and lovely for men.

A welcome surprise, sadly discontinued, but quite available on line.
15th July, 2019

Halston Couture by Halston

Halston – Couture (1988)

Somehow the top and middle notes pass me by and the initial inhale is all amber, patchouli and cypress with a hint of oak moss, making it a strong, warm woody scent. Not quite a chypre, though one can sense that it very much wants to be.

I wait in vain for the florals to arrive. They never do in and of themselves, but as time goes by, the woods are softened and lightened, no doubt by the floral heart, although I can’t detect any specific soliflores. This is odd since rose, muguet and jasmine all have pretty substantial personalities. Finally, a soft rose emerges, but it is only hinted at, very shy indeed.

In the dry down it becomes “soft woods,” and ultimately a “nice” but undistinguished creation.
Safe, tame, undemonstrative. It is certainly unisex. It is available on line in a large price range. Luckily the cologne is quite inexpensive and one can sample this before making up one’s mind whether to purchase or not.

LOVE the bottle!

15th July, 2019

Hyrax by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – HYRAX (2018)

Animalic musks are rare in today’s perfume world, so I was surprised to find Hyrax redolent of those old standbys, civet and castoreum, mixed with a truly animalic musk. Zoologist states on its sample card that it uses no animal derived musks, so what is achieved in their laboratory is surprisingly authentic.

I don’t get the “skanky” or “fecal” vibe that other reviewers experience. Actually, I find this quite sophisticated and sexy. However, one-note (all of Hyrax resembles a mere part of most classically composed chypres), in this minimalist world of modern scent, it could certainly be layered effectively with other mono-syllabic compositions to “create” a desired effect.

It is quite strong so, as the old ad relates, “a little dab’ll do ya.” Most interesting and the first of the Zoologist scents sampled that I truly like. Thank God they abstained from ruining this with their usual overdose of oud/guaiac.

Very unisex and very worth a try for lovers of the chypre genre.
14th July, 2019

Macaque by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – Macaque (2016)

A blast of galbanum and oud at the outset, dominating all remaining 11 ingredients in this creation. Sadly, as with all scents containing oud, (a note I loathe), it dominates throughout. I do get occasional sweet fruity green notes (the green apple no doubt), which waft above my arm. Thankfully the oud remains on my skin and not in the atmosphere above it, so if I just sit quietly, I don’t have to endure it. Cedar in the olfactory shape of shaved pencil dryly drifts up on occasion.

Still, the green effect is not that unique or special here. Galbanum, when used judiciously, can be marvelous (Weil de Weil, Givenchy III), but here it seems shy and retiring. It might have garnered a neutral rating had they just left out the oud, but no matter, it’s here at the center and must be dealt with.

My second sample from this house and both experiences are negative.
13th July, 2019

Moth by Zoologist Perfumes

Zoologist – Moth

The Oud and Guaiac woods are the first to emerge with their skanky, astringent aromas (I loathe both of these woods, fyi). The musk and civet try to soften the effect and almost, but not quite, manage to do so. At least they provide a certain sweetness to counteract the dry, bitter and acrid wood notes.

The floral mélange, lurking in the wings, takes tentative steps to tip toe on stage, but these woods will not relinquish the spot light. I only get echoes of their existence.

Alas, this is for me a scrubber as are practically all oud and guaiac wood-dominated scents. I simply detest them and when they dominate, they conquer. Sad that the perfumer here poured on 23 different notes, only to have these two swallow the rest.

A very resonant negative from me.
12th July, 2019

Entre Nous by Bourbon French Parfums

Bourbon French – ENTRE NOUS

Immortelle (the Everlasting Flower) is here treated as a soliflore. I also detect some vanilla, as in a wafer cookie, but it is the Immortelle that is center stage. This intriguing scent has the effect of dark maple syrup mixed with celery seed, making it very much a gourmand. Bourbon French hints that it contains citrus and spice, but I cannot detect any such notes. Immortelle is a dark note, effectively worn in the Autumn.

Now, I used to be a great fan of this scent, when I first discovered it, as it is so appealing to the olfactory senses in that gourmand way (crepes with butter and syrup make my mouth water), but repeated use has not sustained it over time. It seemingly was a one-time sensation that I quickly grew tired of. It is however quite favored in the perfume world, the 1985 Goutal Sables being the first time it was given the spotlight in a modern creation (it is present in many less famous older scents).

So, if immortelle is your thing, this is the most economical way to purchase it, since Bourbon French prices are extremely affordable. The quality is just as high as with the Goutal at a fraction of the cost.
26th June, 2019

Tonight by Bourbon French Parfums

Bourbon French – Tonight

Tonight is one of the oldest and most popular of the Bourbon French house parfums, having been created in the early part of the twentieth century. All BP’s web site will tell us is that it is a combination of woods and spices with an emphasis on a cinnamon note.

Right away one gets a whiff of old-fashioned elegance in the blending, reminding me of the Lanvins of that era. The balance is so perfect that with the exception of the cinnamon, I cannot really detect individual notes, though sandalwood and cedar must certainly have a presence, cedar having the ability to support and lift cinnamon. There is also a very subtle rose at its heart. It is warm and sensual, and quite sophisticated.

This strikes me as a scent for the mature woman and for formal occasions, such as theatre, opera and social gatherings.

Anyone into vintage parfums from this era owes it to oneself to give Tonight a try. It is amazing to have something of this quality still available to twenty-first century noses.
25th June, 2019