Perfume Reviews

Reviews by JackTwist

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Total Reviews: 1324

Desir du Coeur by Ybry

YBRY – DESIR DU COEUR (1927)

Ybry, a company based in both Paris and New York City, existed from 1925 to 1944. They produced 22 scents, according to the Perfume Encyclopedia. They boasted being the world’s most expensive perfumes, due to the quality of their ingredients.

They are most noted for their stunning Baccarat designed Art Deco bottles, squares in colored crystal with canteen like openings on a top corner. These are highly collectible, with or without contents intact. Lalique also created bottle designs for Ybry.

Perfumista Alexandra Star tells us that: “Each different color, was related to a particular perfume, and to a different gem. The colors range from a red to a pink, slag green to a darker green, jet black, orange to butterscotch, deep purple to lavender. Most of the time, the bottles had matching enameled and gilded metal covers. These covers were placed over the inner stoppers at an angle on one corner of the bottle.”

Desir Du Coeur is described as a feminine floral similar to Chanel #5.

Top Notes: Bergamot, Ylang Ylang, Neroli, Lemon

Heart Notes: Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Orris, May Rose

Base notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver

The blending of these simple ingredients, present in so many perfumes of the 1920s, is masterly. No one note stands out. All blend seamlessly into a beautiful whole. It does strike me as being somewhat similar to Chanel No. 5, but there seem to be no animalics in the base, which sets it apart from the Chanel. Without these elements, Desir becomes primarily a floral mélange, lighter than the Chanel, but just as beautiful.

My partner describes it as a warm, slightly spicy floral, based in his nose on a jasmine/rose/ orris accord, rounded and pushed forward by the subtle citruses, grounded by the patchouli, which gives it a sensual and mysterious undercurrent.

Desir du Coeur’s subtlety is one of its most charming qualities. Understated, elegant and sophisticated, it is thankfully still available from private sellers on the Internet. Very worth seeking out.

29th September, 2018

Quand Vient L'Été / Voile d'Été by Guerlain

Quand Vient L’Ete (1910)

This is a very fresh and uplifting floral with a most appropriate name (When Summer Comes). Clove, citrus and mint are at the center, providing an immediate rush of warm and spicy notes. The jasmine, rose and honey give it a solid and voluptuous heart, while the heliotrope, vanilla and civet provide a warm and comforting animalic base line.

I am reminded of my favorite Guerlain, Sous Le Vent, which did not arrive until the early 1930s. This spicy scent was created for Josephine Baker, but it seems it had its inspiration with Quand back in 1910.

Interesting to note that this had a further re-appearance in our own century as Terracotta Voile d’Ete.

Top notes: Honey, Jasmine, Mint, Lemon, Bergamot,
Heart notes: Rose, Heliotrope, Ylang, Clove, Orchid,
Base notes: Leather, Hay, Orris, Civet, Vanilla

Quand is a very appealing fragrance and a perfect choice for almost any time of the year, as I find for most carnation/clove centered parfums. Bright and sparking, while at the same time solid and alluring. Highly recommended and fortunately still available online from private sellers.


14th September, 2018

Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionnelle by Agent Provocateur

Well, it's not awful. Just not very good.

Extremely light with the tea, jasmine and osmanthus notes, supported by cedar, at the center. (Can someone tell me why such florals as gardenia and magnolia are mentioned when their oils are scent-less?)

The musk, vetiver and amber notes are very synthetic, as is probably every note in this concoction. They do not intrude, even though one wishes they might to give this some weight, some gravitas.

As such, it is a harmless, almost scentless, drug store fragrance. If you paid over $5 for it, you got ripped off.

If this is supposed to be provocative, I'd say the makers are still in kindergarten.
09th September, 2018
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Guerlilas by Guerlain

GUERLILAS (1930)

Since lilac oil does not reproduce the flower’s scent, I am always wary about approaching a soliflore, whose raison d’etre must be synthetically reproduced.

Guerlilas is a masterful blend of the lilac impression and the vanilla aspects of heliotrope, plus a bright, sharp, mint-like burst of muguet to balance. The jasmine and violet round out and soften the experience. The base notes of deer musk and civet do not intrude, but simply anchor the lilac/muguet blend.

The over all impression is very spring-like, given the gravitas of an aroma that classically conveys remembrance. The best known is of course the remembrance of Abraham Lincoln’s funeral cortege in Walt Whitman’s masterful “When Lilacs Last In the Door Yard Bloomed.”

Top notes: Lilac, Bergamot;
Heart notes: Jasmine, Heliotrope, Muguet, Violet;
Base notes: Deer Musk, Civet

This is a scent for a refined woman, a woman of substance and of experience. It is gentle, soft and warm, as it also denotes strength of character and maturity.

Guerlilas is a successful reproduction of the scent of lilac, lacking only the ephemeral sweetness of fresh blooms, something I have never known a lilac oil to reproduce. Long discontinued, but still available from private sellers on the internet.
08th September, 2018

Eau Hégémonienne by Guerlain

Eau Hegemonienne (1880)

Guerlain’s homage to the royal court of Spain and its international alliances (hegemonic means ruling or dominant), Eau Hegemonienne is an eau de cologne that relies more on the herb family than the citrus. The use of thyme, lavender and other Herbes de Provence gives it a serene dryness. The rosewood and sandalwood – and I would swear there is a bit of cedarwood in there as well – intensify the dryness. The bergamot and lemon would not be strong enough in and of themselves to continue the citrus top through the experience, so I believe there is also a strong neroli note as well. At least my nose tells me so. It is crisp and bold and bright.

The vanilla makes its appearance towards the end of the dry down. As an eau de cologne it is not long lasting, but impresses with that wonderful and fragrant herbal dryness mixing with the refreshing citrus notes.

This was created for Isabella II, mother of King Alfonso XII of Spain in 1880. It was quite popular among other members of the Spanish royal family and was finally made available to the public in 1890. It was still in production in 1941, but did not survive the war years.

It is surprising that Guerlain would name it such. Hegemonienne is difficult to spell, pronounce, and most importantly, remember – a handicap from a marketing standpoint.

A real rarity, but thankfully still available now and then from private sellers. Worth seeking out for all lovers of citrus splashes.
01st September, 2018

Fleur de Feu by Guerlain

Fleur de Feu (Flower of Fire) (1949)
Fleur de Feu was Guerlain’s first release after WWII, during which his youngest son was killed. The name perhaps relates to the flower of youth going down in flames or flowers rising like a phoenix from the flames of war.

Reviews on line mention a spicy carnation, but this is not among the notes listed by Guerlain. The scent is for me another masterful blend of individual notes with no one note standing apart from the others. It is a rich, deep floral. The honey, jasmine and sweet acacia join the tonka and vanilla in giving the overall effect of a warm, powdery softness. The buttery quality of ylang seems to float most successfully over the other notes, never standing apart but mingling and entwining itself among the strands of scent.

Since fire is associated with the color red, one would think that a red rose or red carnation would be the star here, especially since the name is singular, fleur rather than fleurs. This is not the case, so the title continues to baffle, while the warm and re-assuring scent delights.

This is a personal scent, a scent of loss remembered, of sweet memories recalled. A scent for the mature man or woman, gentle and evocative of a time gone by, an under-statement of the power of scent to evoke the past within the present. A great rarity, but thankfully still available on line from private sellers.



Fl
31st August, 2018

Fol Arôme by Guerlain

Fol Arome

Originally released in 1912, the same year as the iconic L’Heure Bleue, this is a variant take on that classic, emphasizing herbal rather than floral notes.

I had to look up what the scent of bouvardia was, since I have never come across its use in perfumery before. According to the internet it has the fragrance of a light gardenia, not surprising as its small tubular white flowers resemble both jasmine and tuberose.

Guerlain named this Fol Arome, which translates to “Crazy Scent.” It may have been an odd re-working of the L’Heure Bleue notes for him, but its scent is hardly crazy by today’s standards.

This is a very rich, yet quiet, herbal bouquet, subdued, fresh and minty at first, then calming down to a combination of lavender, sage and marjoram, the scent one gets by brushing one’s open palm across the upright stems of an herb garden. The guerlinade with its rose and vanilla softness is present in support.

This is masterful blending at its very best. One gets whiffs of all the notes, in different combinations, as it dries down.

Jasmine, Anise, Lavender, Bergamot;
Daffodil, Rose, Bouvardia, Mint, Clary Sage, Marjoram, Orris
Musk, Carnation, Acacia, Vanilla

Certainly unisex by today’s standards and very much ahead of its time. So many simplistic scents on the market today go for an herbal vibe – marjoram, basil, mint, fig, thyme, etc., but they don’t possess Fol Arome’s beautiful underpinnings of the freshly baked pastry vibe one gets from L’Heure Bleue. One can almost imagine pastries sprinkled with fresh herbs as a variant to the usual fruit fillings and almond creams.

This is a delicious scent, one to be sought out by all fans of L’Heure Bleue. Though re-released in 1947, it did not catch on and was quickly discontinued. Only a handful of sellers on the internet possess bottles of this rarity, but they are out there.
30th August, 2018

Jasmin by Guerlain

Guerlain - Jasmin (1924)

This presentation is far from a soliflore. It is quite a blend of notes, many in addition to the ones listed on the Basenotes page, sourced from the Monsieur Guerlain blogspot. It has been suggested that in addition there are: two more top notes (Apricot, Honey), three more heart notes (Rose, Tobacco, Muguet); and four more base notes (Leather, Lavender, Oak Moss, Amber).

I can certainly attest to these, as they float around and support the jasmine note, almost masking it with additional nuances. The effect is that of a sweet anisey jasmine with honeyed undertones. One would think that with those somber base notes, the dry down would be warm and herbal, and that’s exactly what happens. The sweetness, however, never leaves the stage.

It is quite feminine and light, definitely not unisex. Sweet jasmine with an herbal twist. Very much of its time and a most delightful find. Too bad it is out of production, but vintage bottles are still available on the Internet. Definitely recommended for the jasmine lover.



29th August, 2018

Muguet by Guerlain

Muguet (1840, 1906)

Bergamot, Muguet, Lilac, Jasmine, Rose

Muguet is one of those odd flowers, like Gardenia, whose scent in nature is extremely and powerfully strong, yet whose essential oil is practically scentless. What is put out in nature is not held in the floral oils. Consequently, these two must be re-created in the perfume laboratory by mixing oils and chemicals to approximate the natural experience.

I have come across dozens of soliflore muguets in my day, opting either to recreate the sharp, strong scent found in nature or a soft, powdery, tame version (Coty’s Muguet des Bois (1936), Caswell Massey’s Lily of the Valley). Both are acceptable, both are intensely feminine, and although both are wearable, the former true scent must be applied ever so sparingly or it can become sharp and metallic, and a bit overwhelming to the unsuspecting stranger who wanders into Milady’s boudoir.

Guerlain’s version is true to the original flower. Combining bergamot, muguet, lilac, jasmine and rose in an amazingly balanced fashion, we get a true approximation of the original nose to flower experience. (Whoever knew that molecules resembling the rose were present in the muguet experience?)

One must remember that the lack of personal hygiene in both 1840 and 1906, the release dates of the Guerlain Muguet formulas, called out for strong parfums and toilet waters, primarily to be sponged over Milady’s body to mask and/or blot out sweat and animalic odors. As such, the Guerlain Muguet is almost an anomaly today, far too strong to be acceptable by today’s standards and a prime candidate for the negative “old lady” appellation.

However, this does not mean the Guerlain is unwearable. It simply means it must be applied in very small doses and judiciously. Hence coming across a vintage bottle simply means you are going to get incredible mileage out of it. This is almost a parfum made more for self-indulgence in private moments than to be worn in public. It is incredibly true to the original nose to flower experience as have been all the Guerlain soliflores I have experienced.

For those who love muguet, this is a must have. Thankfully, there are bottles of the original 1906 formulation still available from private sellers on the internet. Another true Guerlain gem from the past.

28th August, 2018

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca by Guerlain

A very light take on the ubiquitous generic combo of orange, neroli and petitgrain, this does not have the depth and richness of other exponents of the genre.

The best neroli petitgrain combos are the classics, Castile from Penhalignon and No. 126 from Floris. The petitgrain in the latter is quite sublime.

This modern Guerlain smells more like an air freshener than a serious scent. It is too light weight to compare favorably with either of the above-mentioned classics.

Decent, but in no way remarkable.
25th August, 2018

Ode by Guerlain

Guerlain – ODE (1955)

Distinctly feminine to the nth degree, Ode does bring to mind Patou’s Joy in its depth and richness, but the bright peach note makes a decided difference in its rounded sweetness. There is in addition the distinct green note of hyacinth and the vanillic heliotrope supports the peach beautifully.

The jasmine and rose combo at the center is quite strong and darkly luminous with the dry notes of orris and violet grounding this seemingly baseless composition, with only a faint musk note claiming that honor.

Ode has the feel of an old-fashioned floral parfum from the 1930s. A little of this will go a long way, since projection and sillage are quite powerful and long-lasting. This is definitely a scent for the mature woman and most effectively worn in the cold winter months.

Sadly discontinued for some time now, the vintage is still available from private sellers on the internet. Ode was re-orchestrated in 2005 and I have not as yet sampled that version, but do try to locate the original vintage. Seemingly it was one of the last of the great Guerlains.

A stunning fruity floral with a rich rose and jasmine heart.
24th August, 2018

Dawamesk by Guerlain

Dawamesk (1942/1945 – original name Kriss)

Lavender, Violet, Orange Blossom, Bergamot;
Jasmine, Muguet, Rose, Ylang;
Clary Sage, Cinnamon, Leather, Tonka, Moss, Musk

Dawamesk is a green food paste, or preserve, comprised of pistachio, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, sugar, orange juice, butter, and surprise, surprise, Hashish.

It seems it was consumed by a number of Parisian artists in the mid nineteenth century, washed down no doubt with absinthe, to induce hallucination and inspiration. Hugo, Dumas, Balzac and Baudelaire were among those who reportedly enjoyed this treat.

Jacques Guerlain reportedly used hashish to soothe his depression, when his youngest son was killed in WWII. It is intriguing to think that this forgotten scent may have been inspired by the scent of the Dawamesk paste, reportedly a mix of anise and orange liqueur. In any case it is the most singular parfum creation story I have yet to come across.

Guerlain released the scent in 1942 under the name of Kriss (reportedly a type of dagger). Perhaps this was too grim for his clientele, besieged by Hitler. It was renamed Dawamesk and re-released in 1945.

The vintage decant I am experiencing has the initial effect of a fragrantly sweet leather with a dark base, most probably the combination of clary sage and lavender. If one imagines Chanel’s original Cuir with a jasmine and cinnamon thread, one would come closest to describing the effect. There is certainly no anise or orange liqueur impression. As the dry down continues, the leather effect is reigned in and the floral bouquet of rose, jasmine, ylang and muguet takes over. Because of its sweetness it would seem most appropriate for women, but a young man could certainly wear this successfully as well.

Knowing its provenance, this has the feeling of being a very personal scent, one worn only for oneself and to evoke a fond memory. It is an absolute delight, bringing broad smiles to myself and my partner. One could say it is the embodiment of youth in a bottle, ever hopeful, ever positive, ever joyful. A treasure!
22nd August, 2018

Rue De La Paix by Guerlain

GUERLAIN – RUE DE LA PAIX (1922)

Perfumista Alexandra Star tells us that Rue de la Paix was launched in 1908, and then possibly again only in the USA in 1922. It was created by Pierre Guerlain, though others claim that it was created by Jacques Guerlain.

Rue De La Paix opens with a honeyed amber, supported by lavender and a citrus bergamot/verbena accord. At its heart is a very dry trio of orris, violet and violet leaves, with a dry down of a very dark rose (think Lalique’s Perles), balanced within this mix.

As such it is quite subdued and somber, the sort of scent one associates with a rainy day. The amber creates a cloud of warm and comforting menthol. I am not a fan of amber, but it is skillfully blended here, always at the heart but never overpowering. Although the note tree lists ambrette, I am experiencing ambergris. Perhaps my decant is the original 1908 version and perhaps the 1922 reformulation substituted ambrette for ambergris, with the note tree representing the reformulation.

It is certainly an excellent amber-centered creation for those who are fans of this note. Hard to find but still available in decants from a number of on line sellers.

Top notes; Honey, Lavender, Verbena, Bergamot
Heart notes: Jasmine, Violet, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Leather, Ambrette
Base notes: Musk, Violet Leaves, Orris
13th August, 2018
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Cordoba by Berdoues

Berdoues – Cordoba (1953)

Cordoba is a spicy leather perfume, equally wearable by both men and women.

It starts out very reminiscent of three similar classics, Dana’s Tabu, Tuvache’s Tuvara, and Lauder’s Youth Dew. That same warm vanillic base, rich, dark and creamy. Cordoba however veers off in a different direction. By adding carnation, clove and cinnamon to the mix, with a leather undertone, it achieves that spicy leather accord, which sets it apart from these others.

Although not in the note tree, the effects of amber, vanilla and musk are most prominent to my nose. This is a rich and voluptuous perfume, one that might have been worn with furs. In the vein of the Weil scents, it might even be at home sprinkled on the furs themselves.

It is interesting to me that it premeried the same year (1953) as Youth Dew. If one did not know that two different houses presented these to the world, a modern nose might even see one as a flanker to the other.

This is a marvelous leather, rich, warm and spicy. Highly recommended to lovers of the Tabu/Youth Dew musky amber genre.



11th August, 2018

Violet by Tuvache

TUVACHE – VIOLET (1939)

This is a soft, yet strong, concentrated “skin perfume,” combining the usual soliflore elements of violet flower, violet leaf and orris.

It is not powdery, nor is it sharp, as can sometimes occur with an abundance of pure violet oil. This falls somewhere in the middle. It is quite lovely and since it is so concentrated, tiny dabs will provide many hours of wafting.

Violet is a scent best used in cold, winter months. There is something about its comfortable warmth that reacts well with a chilly day. An excellent violet, right up there with Berdoues, Shimy and Ducale.

Since this is so concentrated, it becomes economical in that its strength requires minimum application for a fully rounded effect.

Highly recommended and luckily still available from private sellers on the internet.
10th August, 2018

Midnight by Dorothy Gray

It is extremely rare that I consider using profanity in a scent review. I have given myself time to cool down after experiencing this Midnight scent, originally by Dorothy Gray and now being marketed by Tussy.

It is one of the vilest things I have ever put to my nose. Menthol and oak moss clash in a way that staggers the olfactory imagination, achieving depths of nastiness previously undreamed of in my experience.

The best thing I can say for it is that it is not as bad as Secretions Magnifique. I was not at all surprised to find a number of bottles of this insult to the human nose on sale at a local discount store. I hoped that the original buyer was presently enjoying a sabatical in Siberia in appreciation of a keen sense of irony.

Avoid this one at all costs. Have strongly scented handiwipes at the ready if you are so courageos as to disregard my warnings.
09th August, 2018

Celui by Jean Dessès

Jean Desses:

Jean Desses was a Parisian couturier, who established a fashion house in 1937. He produced six scents through 1964, the most popular being Celui in 1938 and Gymkana in 1964.

Celui opens with a very dry rose, made even drier by the orris and hawthorne notes. The musk and sandalwood provide a woody, reedy effect, equally dry. The gardenia, heliotrope and hyacinth notes are not detectable to my nose. Ambergris and civet provide an animalic sweetness, an effect which could be cloying if not balanced, as they are here.

Oddly the overwhelming impression is that of immortelle, which provides a gourmand effect of the Indian powdered spice, garum masala. At the same time there is a further dry pungent impression of celery seed. Millot’s Insolent from the 1940s comes closest in resembling Celui, as a reference point.

It all boils down to whether you wish to anoint yourself to suggest working in an herbal spice shop.
As a dry, fragrant scent, this could work well for summer wear. You are certain to make an impression, fleeting but fresh and dry. The edp I sampled did not have great longetivity. Probably best in its pure parfum concentration.

This is a pleasant scent and recommended for both sexes as dry, woody, slightly gourmand summer splash.





09th August, 2018

Gardénia by Guerlain

Guerlain – Gardenia (1935)

Guerlain’s soliflore Gardenia was first created in 1828, relaunched in 1902 and again in 1935.

It is the most intense Gardenia I have yet experienced, dark, rich, voluptuous and sensual. This is not the bright Gardenia of my personal favorite thus far, the Chanel. It is as if all other Gardenia scents were eau de colognes in sweetness and brightness, compared to which the Guerlain smells like pure oils without alcohol yet mixed in.

The oddity of the gardenia plant is that although the flower exudes (along with lily and tuberose) the most intense animalic floral pheromones in the floral world, its essential oil is without scent at all. Thus gardenia needs to be “invented” in the perfumer’s laboratory, by a mixture of essential oils that “suggest” the scent of gardenia, most usually a mixture of jasmine and tuberose, with assists from lily, rose and ylang ylang.

The perfume market has always been flooded with gardenia scents, the most popular of which has been Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache/Coty. These always smelled cheap to my nose, the sort of thing Sadie Thompson, Maisie or Torchy Blane might have worn.

Guerlain has created yet another masterpiece with its Gardenia. The sweetness of orange blossom and neroli are restrained. The jasmine, rose, ylang and lilac of the heart notes rich, deep and powerful. The civet, musk and vanilla in the base support and expand the animalic voluptuousness.

Finally, a gardenia that crosses the unisex barrier and can be worn by both men and women, granted in very small quantities.

Top notes: Orange Blossom, Neroli, Bergamot
Heart notes: Gardenia, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Lilac
Base notes: Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood, Civet

An amazing scent, truly mind-boggling. Luckily, vintage is still available from on line sellers. A must experience for all lovers of the flower itself.

08th August, 2018

Guerlinade by Guerlain

Guerlain – Guerlinade (1924)

Guerlinade is the base of 8 notes from which most of Guerlain’s classics have been derived. According to the expert site, Monsieur Guerlain, these are the eight:

Bergamot; Jasmine; Rose; Orris; Tonka Bean; Vanilla; Resins – Choice of Patchouli, Amber, Styrax (Benzoin), Frankincense, Myrrh; Animal tinctures– Choice of Ambergris, Castoreum, Musk, Civet.

In later incarnations orange blossom and sandalwood were added to this iconic blend.

Monsieur Guerlain also states that the date of release given the scent (1921) is incorrect and that it was not sold until 1924.

There are reviewers here who swear it is a soliflore lilac, but no such note appears in the original note tree. If anything, I get a very strong carnation note. Quite apart from clove oil, this is pure carnation oil to my nose. This puts me very much in mind of my favorite Guerlain, Sous Le Vent (1933).

It may very well be that the combination of the rose, jasmine and orris note give the “impression” of carnation. Such may be the perfumer’s art.

It may be that those reviewers who detect a soliflore lilac are confusing this with Guerlain’s Guerlilas (1930), which is just that. It may also be that lilac was added to a later reformulation of Guerlinade.

My decant is from a vintage bottle of the 1920s, so I am certain I am describing the original. This is as close as I will get to Sous Le Vent. Our noses are so individualistic, who knows what another might experience. If you base your judgment on the 8 original notes and know you are dealing with a true original vintage bottle, you can’t go wrong.

Another great from the greatest of all houses.





07th August, 2018

Ambre by Guerlain

GUERLAIN – AMBRE (1890)

My decant is from a Carre flacon, so is without a doubt the original 1890 blend.

Immediately amber, cedar and leather envelop the olfactory senses with the pungent spicy notes of cinnamon and cardamom sparkling atop this heavenly blend. There is a sexy smokiness enveloping the entire creation.

The earliest amber scent I had heretofore been aware of was Coty’s Ambre Antique (1910) in the iconic tall crystal flacon, with Roman maidens embossed about its surface. I have not to date been able to experience the contents, so cannot make a comparison.

I am not really a fan of amber as a central note in perfume, finding that it can often be nauseatingly pungent, as in Creed’s Ambre Canelle (1949). The Guerlain however is as always a masterful blend, with supporting notes only enhancing, not overwhelming the central theme.

The orange blossom and ylang ylang in the heart notes round out the already quite round opening trio and the dry down makes good use of the creaminess of vanilla, tonka and sandalwood.

So, here we have strong amber, cedar and leather, rounded with creamy notes and topped with sparkling spices. Expertly done and wearable by either sex. The first amber parfum I have liked. Luckily, it is still available on line from private sellers in decant flacons.

Very worth seeking out for those who love amber.
06th August, 2018

Guerlarose by Guerlain

GUERLAIN – GUERLAROSE (1934)

The perfume world knows Guerlain’s 1979 Nahema as a reference rose creation. I had been unaware until recently that their first take on the rose soliflore was Guerlarose back in 1934.

This is quite a different take on the “queen of flowers” than the later Nahema, which was strong and powerfully sexy. Guerlarose is extremely soft and delicate. There is restraint here and there is an interesting mix of other notes that intricately support and open out the rose impression.

Violet, Jasmine and Heliotrope provide a dry, powdery vanilla-like softness and there is just the right touch of almond to anchor it. Surprisingly, my nose also detects a hint of strawberry leaf, a note more prevalent in Mugler’s Angel created decades later. I was thrown at first by this recognition, thinking the use of that leaf came much later in perfumery, but who is to say?

Guerlarose is a beautiful creation and one of the softest I have ever experienced. I get more the “impression” of rose than a direct detection. A masterly blend of notes that support and enhance the heart essence, never taking away from its statement, but surrounding it with clouds of nuance.

Top notes: Rose, Lemon, and Bergamot
Heart Notes: Violet, Jasmine, and Heliotrope
Base note: Almond

Luckily, this is still available on line from private sellers. A must experience for all lovers of the rose.
05th August, 2018

Moroccan Rose by Tuvache

Tuvache – Moroccan Rose (1938)

A beautiful dark, dry, powdery rose from the essential oil of this native African rose variety.
This is presented as a “skin perfume.” One wonders where else one could put it. Essentially as I understand it, this variety of presentation has a higher concentration of oils as compared to alcohol than the usual parfum mixture of 25%/75%.

It dries down a bit darkly as if pepper were added, thus resembling Lalique’s Perles. There may be the tiniest touch of jasmine and a hint of musk to support it.

A small dab will last quite a while, so it’s rather an economical way to waft through your day. It is quite soft and subtle. In contrast Tuvache’s Mimosa skin perfume announces itself grandly and precedes one into each room.

A mixture of the Rose and Mimosa blends quite beautifully, so layering of these two is recommended. Very hard to find these days, though internet shops do still provide samples. Worth seeking out for all rose lovers.
04th August, 2018

Coque d'Or by Guerlain

Guerlain – Coque d’Or (1937)

Top notes are Anise, Lavender, Bergamot
Heart notes are Jasmine, Carnation, Cyclamen, Orris
Base notes are Vetiver, Patchouli, Tolu Balsam, Musk, Civet, Oak Moss, Vanilla

Perfumista and collector Alexandra Star tells us that Guerlain dedicated Coque d’Or to friend Serge Diaghilev, founder of the Ballets Russes, whose favorite scent was reportedly Guerlain’s Mitsouko.

There is a slight similarity between the two scents in the base of musky chypre notes, providing an “almost ashy mossiness” to the blend. The carnation is very prominent, but it is tempered by the cyclamen with its tobacco note and the dry powdery orris.

Coque d’Or is for me a great improvement over Mitsouko, whose earthiness is a bit too basic for my tastes. It also resembles Sous Le Vent a great deal but is a much denser blend than that airy classic. A critic has labeled Coque d’Or as heavy silk, compared with Mitsouko’s velvet and Vol de Nuit’s fur impressions. It is certainly a masterpiece and rare as hen’s teeth. This is especially true in its unique presentation bottle in cobalt blue and Baccarat crystal, hand painted with gold, and in the shape of a bow, one of the most expensive bottles ever created.

It is surprising to me that this was created for women as it seems very masculine to my nose. The top note of anise, mixed with lavender and bergamot call to mind a fougere, but almost immediately the heart and base notes enter and declare it chypre territory.

This is an extraordinary work of art and all fans of Mitsouko should make it a point to encounter it. Another Guerlain masterpiece.
03rd August, 2018

Mimosa by Tuvache

Tuvache – Mimosa (1939)

An incredibly true and rich evocation of the exotic mimosa flower,
Tuvache’s Mimosa is compellingly rich and layered. The scent of
mimosa is quite rare in soliflore perfumes and is very hard to
describe, as it is so unlike any other floral element. It has a warm,
dusty quality, which is underscored by a mint like element, making
it at the same time vibrant and bright. Yes, a contradiction in terms,
but nevertheless, accurate to my nose.

I have purchased many soaps and scents in the past that were named
Mimosa, but which lied, trying no doubt to lure unsuspecting fans to
part with their money. The only soap I have found to be utterly true
in scent is the Claus Porto Mimosa, which is more and more difficult
to find.

My decant is in the form of a skin oil concentration. It is amazingly
long-lasting and completely non-greasy.

This is a treasure scent. If you’ve never experienced mimosa, the
Tuvache is a perfect place to begin your love affair.
02nd August, 2018 (last edited: 03rd August, 2018)

Red Roses by Jo Malone

There is little to be added to the 19 reviews that precede this one. It is certainly an excellent soliflore based on seven varieties of rose with some lemon, honey and violet added.

What sets it apart for me from a million and one other rose soliflores since the beginning of perfume is the true evocation of the rose leaf, something I don't recall encountering in my olfactory past.

There are a number of excellent green rose scents out there (Silence, Nahema among them), but that greenness refers to the petals themselves, not the leaves.

It is for this evocation alone, of the green rose leaf, that Jo Malone's Red Roses stands apart from its competitors.

The rose oils themselves are rich, dry and well blended. No soapiness at all. Just real rose, the scent of a freshly cut bouquet.

Thumbs up for this one.
01st August, 2018

Chypre by Rigaud

RIGAUD – CHYPRE (1925)

Rigaud opened its doors in 1852 and lasted in its initial phase through the 1940s. Rigaud’s widow took over running the business in 1902 and his son Henri continued the tradition in 1910. Rigaud is known primarily for being the first perfumer to search out and use exotic oils for “new” perfumes. He was the first to present an Ylang Ylang in 1869 and his Kananga, an exotic discovered in Japan, was an early hit. His Air Embaumee was another.

Rigaud’s grandson continued to re-invent the brand into the 21st century. Among its innovations was the scented candle, inaugurating the home fragrance industry. Rigaud is still in production today.

Their Chypre is a masterful blend of notes, including bergamot, but mainly base, such as oak moss, patchouli, labdanum/cistus. It is mossy, yes, but not pungently so. The florals are very light, jasmine being the only one I am able to detect. The labdanum/cistus note offers a light amber touch.

My overall impression is one very close to the Chanel No. 5 experience, sweet, bright and radiant. The exact scent is different, but not that different, very close in type. There is no harshness whatsoever to this chypre. It is light, but also has depth. A lovely find.
19th July, 2018

Aqua Celestia Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A burst of lime is supported by the slightly reedy petitgrain, which lasts for a number of minutes. The intensity of the lime saves this initial exposure from resembling thousands of oceanics flooding the contemporary market.

I await development, but none occurs. No mint, no jasmine, no mimosa, no musk. Just a clean lime/petitgrain accord. This is the first scent I have experienced from the house of Kurkdjian and I am unimpressed. If this is a "forte" version of a similarly named scent, that former must be weak indeed.

There is nothing special about this cool citrus, which does eventually calm down enough to resemble those oceanics referred to above. Laundry dryer sheets I have known have more character.
18th July, 2018

Orchidée Vanille by Van Cleef & Arpels

A brief burst of citrus, the balance of bitter almond and sweet lychee, then we enter gourmand territory - the genre practically created by Mugler's Angel.

The florals (rose, violet) are quite light, as is the scent itself. The vanilla is understated and supported by a lightly woody cedar note. The chocolate, tonka and musk are almost undetectable to my nose, which is all to the better, as I am not a fan of gourmand scents. I enjoy smelling them, but I do not enjoy wearing them. The exception of course is the classic Guerlain L'Heure Bleue.

All in all a pleasant and understated vanilla, not bad at all, but not particularly noteworthy.
17th July, 2018

Coloris by Marcelle Dormoy

Dormoy – COLORIS (1940)

Little is known about couturier Marcelle Dormoy other than that she opened her establishment in 1920 and closed in 1950. She was associated with Vionnet and Patou. Her scents number 13, a few with audacious names, such as Perfidie, Gomorrhe and Sodome.

Her Coloris is a masterpiece. This is a rich, warm, rounded floral, which is olaceous without being overwhelming. It has great depth, achieved with an amazing blending of seven base notes with musk and ambergris providing sensuality, supported by a light woody blend of sandalwood and cedar. Patchouli and vetiver give it an orris-like dryness and tonka bean blends with the heart note of ylang ylang to wrap it in a vanilla-like veil.

The blending of gardenia, rose, jasmine, lily and heliotrope provide the floral bouquet.

Coloris reminds me of the rich perfumes of Weil, designed to enhance furs. It could today be easily worn by both men and women.

I am greatly impressed and will seek out more from the house of Dormoy in my future scent shopping. Highly recommended.
05th July, 2018

Eau des Délices by Le Jardin Retrouvé

There are hundreds of eau de colognes on the market and all are basically made up of the same ingredients: a combination of citrus elements (lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime); an herb to ground it (rosemary, lavender) and a touch of petitgrain to fix it.

This take on the classic citrus splash is excellent. The inclusion of oak moss in the note tree surprises me as it is not evident to my nose, nor would it have been welcome. A number of otherwise fine eaus have been ruined for me by the addition of a bitter wood element that may ground it, but which for me ruins the ethereal experience.

There is a shy floral element that eludes me. Can it be a touch of rose? It becomes more evident as time goes on and the scent fades.

It is not long lasting. Eaus by their very nature cannot be. Still fun to spray on several times during the day. A very decent eau de cologne.
23rd June, 2018