Reviews by JackTwist

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    JackTwist
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    Showing 1 to 30 of 85.
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    Eau Sans Pareil by Penhaligon's

    Most of the reviews on this page fit EAU DE ROI's profile, not that of EAU SANS PAREIL. My sample of the latter opens with a burst of sweet fruits, primarily coconut, which is not included in the ingredient list. This is similar to a holiday scent one finds on many candles these days. You have to like it or hate it. It's very youthful and reminds me of Lili Bermuda's SOUTH WATER, a blend of coconut, mango and other exotic fruits.

    EAU SANS PAREIL dries down to a nice warm woody scent with the fruits present but way in the background. Quite nice and quite different. The only other Penhaligon's scent to include fruit is their ELLENESIA and its peach/tuberose accord.

    There are 26 ingredients listed on Pehaligon's website:

    Top-Neroli, Mandarin, Bergamot, Kumquat, Raspberry, Pineapple, Cypress, Pink Pepper, Tageets
    Middle - Jasmine, Damascus Rose, Muguet, Orris, Ylang Ylang, Orange Blossom, Liquorice, Clove
    Base - Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Musk, Vanilla, Cistus-Labdanum, Benzoin and Amber

    7th October, 2011.

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    Petals by Lili Bermuda

    This is a very sweet scent, reminiscent of Caswell Massey's HELIO. This is primarily due to the Honeysuckle note, one note Coty despaired of every getting right and died before he had accomplished it.

    The scent opens with a burst of Jasmine, followed by green notes, and finally the Honeysuckle dry down. The launch date for this is 2009.

    One should wear this sparingly as it is a scent that can become cloying if over-applied. It does fill a niche in the perfume world that has been left behind and can be quite lovely to wear of a spring morning.

    Recommended - and it is quite affordable as are all the Lili Bermuda products.

    5th October, 2011. (Last Edited: 7th October, 2011.)

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    Lily by Lili Bermuda

    For those of you who love the scent of Muguet (Lily of the Valley), you will be happy to learn of Lili Bermuda's LILY.

    I had assumed it was based on the heady and fragrant white Easter Lily, as this was the firm's primary scent from the 1920s throughout the 1960s. This was discontinued when the company was bought in 2004 and this new scent is devoted to the more unassuming tiny bell of Muguet.

    The effect is that of Muguet supported by light rose and fragrant woods. Two other Muguet scents come to mind - Penhaligon's LILY OF THE VALLEY and Christian Dior's DIORISSIMO. Since the Lili Bermuda LILY is half the price of the former and comparable to the latter, it is certainly a reasonable alternative to the these two classics.

    Highly recommended for those in love with Muguet.

    5th October, 2011. (Last Edited: 7th October, 2011.)

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    Coral by Lili Bermuda

    This is a very light mix of rose and tuberose - quite affordable compared to other front line takes on this combo. Something one would splash on before going out to a late afternoon cocktail party in the setting sun.

    Lili Bermuda scents are on the whole quite light and easily wearable. The only detriment others have noted elsewhere is that they don't last a long time. However, they are so affordable, that a number of splashes throughout the day or evening is well worth the price in the long run.

    Not outstanding, but perfectly pleasant.

    5th October, 2011. (Last Edited: 7th October, 2011.)

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    Alegria by Lili Bermuda

    This is a lovely scent, reminiscent of tuberose and peach combined, although neither is an ingredient. It most resembles the classic Piguet FRACAS and the Penhaligon's ELLENESIA for comparison.

    This is the newest launch (2011) for a company that's been in existence since the 1920s, recently bought, library reformulated, some scents discarded, new ones added, over the past 8 years.

    If you compare this to the above two scents, it is not as strong or long lasting as these two, but it's half the price - a great selling point for those who love a heady, fruity, white floral.

    5th October, 2011. (Last Edited: 7th October, 2011.)

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    Pink by Lili Bermuda

    This is the only Lili Bermuda scent I am giving a thumbs down to. The scent for me is practically non-existent, and I have tried both the perfume and the soap.

    I get a very reedy scent, reminiscent of light Artemesia, after a bit of dry Mimosa, but nothing else. No complexity - and it disappears after half an hour. This is one that I would like to see re-formulated as it has a number of interesting ingredients that simply do not rise to my nose.

    Launched in 2007.

    5th October, 2011.

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    L'Interdit (original) by Givenchy

    This is so subtle, it's practically a non-scent. Despite splashing more and more liberal amounts, I smell nothing. This from a vintage sample, so perhaps it did not retain its strength over time.
    Despite 18 ingredients involving fruits, florals and woods/musk, according to Nigel Groom in his perfume anthology, nothing evolves.

    Perhaps this simply interacted well with dear Audrey's skin and personal oils. Sad it does not with me. She is my favorite star and I did so want to have an idea as to what it was like to have her waft by.

    28th July, 2011.

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    Poême by Lancôme

    I was intrigued by Juliette Binoche's sponsoring of this scent so purchased a .14 oz sample bottle.

    I can hardly smell it, even generously splashed about my neck, arms and wrists. On me, it is extremely faint and when I actually get a whiff, it is a nondescript floral with an unusual, almost cloying basenote.

    At least my curiosity has been satisfied. For value there are thousands of perfumes far more worthy at the price.

    27th July, 2011.

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    Cornubia by Penhaligon's

    The other reviewers on this page have obviously smelled something totally different than what arrived in my sample- directly from Penhaligon's. I got a reedy, tweedy dry blast and then nothing for an hour, finally resolving itself into a warm, vanilla musk, but no florals at all.

    Their Artemesia seems to have been copied somewhat for Cornubia. The same reedy, woody initial scent, then warm vanillas and musks.

    Nothing outstanding and too much like the earlier scent to be distinguished.

    5th July, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Eau de Cologne by Penhaligon's

    I get a strong splash of mandarin, then it quickly fades to a very light citrus, then to nothing. I compared it to both 4711 (1792) and Trumper's Eau de Cologne. Trumper's has a slight edge over 4711, in that it seems to have a bit of rose in there that gives it that extra boost of sophistication and Trumper's lasts longer than either 1792 or Penhaligon's (1927).

    One has to ask oneself why pay $130 for a bottle of Penhaligon's when one can get a finer version from Trumper for $90 and double the amount of 4711 for $50.

    I can't comprehend why Penhaligon's revived this one. It's "okay" but its competitors have it beat by a mile in terms of longetivity and price.

    5th July, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Gardenia by Penhaligon's

    This is a wonderfully "light" take on the classic scent - the delicate notes of jasmine support the hint of gardenia at the start and it floats along happily light as the rest of the supporting notes evolve.

    The closest thing I can suggest that does for the lightness of jasmine as this does for gardenia is Serge Lutens A La Nuit. It is as if a blossom has just opened. Most gardenia colognes go for the effect of full heady bloom and can be overpowering, even nauseating in their heaviness. Not so this happy creation by Penhaligon's.

    Very much welcome.

    5th July, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Sartorial by Penhaligon's

    This is a perfectly decent chypre, not a fougere. It is quite tweedy, very crisp, the oakmoss and lavender blend very nicely. One thing they have avoided here is not to overdo it and assault you with overly strong green notes, which usually turn me off to this type of cologne. It reminded me most of Caswell Massey's Greenbriar - a classic for its type but to the nose as the Caswell version is.

    Certainly for this type of cologne it is long lasting, true to its note family and long lasting. A winner in my book.

    5th July, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Ginger Pear by Illuminum

    The Emperor's New Cologne - not only is there no ginger, no pear, there's "nothing." This is a scentless cologne - one could get the same effect by splashing vodka about one's neck and arms.

    My favorite combination of natural scents and flavors had me looking forward to this immensely. The sample is directly from Illuminum, so has not been tampered with.

    I asked friends also if they could detect anything at all and everyone came up with "zero."

    Something must have gone amiss with the manufacture of this item - better to name it "Pure Air" as that is all my nose or those of my friends can detect.

    5th July, 2011.

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    Jubilee Bouquet by Penhaligon's

    Despite the 12 ingredients listed in this revival, I can only detect two. It begins with a blast of rose - much like the dry masculine Turkish Rose note in their Hammam Bouquet. This soon fades as it balances for a time with orris root (Iris) and finally gives up altogether to allow the orris to be the one-note for the entire drydown.

    This is decidedly old-fashioned and reminded me much of their own Victorian Posy. It smells like an old woman's cologne from the 19th century, powdery and evocative of an old potpourri or drawer sachet.

    I am surprised this was revived, since at its original release in 1977, it was already hopelessly out of date. Not a bad scent, not a good scent, just so-so.

    30th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Orange Blossom by Penhaligon's

    This is only the second Penahaligon's scent I have given a thumbs down to- the first was their Extract of Limes, another Anthology return.

    First of all, the scent is far removed from the gentle scent of orange blossoms in bloom (and why neroli, which is orange blossom, is listed in addition to orange blossom as an ingredient has me stumped - don't they know it's the same thing?). It is sticky sweet, over the top, yucky candy. Caswell-Massey had an identical scent, Helio, which they discontinued, thankfully, in the early 1980s.

    This is what you would expect the lipstick, powder and scent of a nineteenth century woman of the streets to wear - it smells cheap and gaudy and nauseating. Why either Penhaligon's or Caswell created it in the first place is beyond me. Why Penhaligon's chose to revive it must remain one of the unsolved riddles of life.

    This is just awful, putrid stuff. One of the worst scents I have ever experienced.

    28th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Eau de Verveine by Penhaligon's

    This begins with a burst of citrus, the lime and lemon. The petitgrain soon takes over, but after an hour, it too disappears. What we are left with is a soft, non-descript, seeming floral. Perfectly pleasant, but in no way unique or special. Very much of its period, the late forties and early fifties. The floral drydown is very old-fashioned, the effect of potpourri or a drawer sachet.

    Once again Penhaligon's names a cologne for an ingredient this is not in it. They did the same for their Night Scented Stock. Why call this Verveine, when there is none in it. Totally illogical and very misleading.

    27th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Night Scented Stock by Penhaligon's

    What an odd name for this scent- the flower itself is known for its redolent aroma and yet it is not one of the 14 ingredients. Might as well name a sandalwood cologne "Lily," for all the sense this makes.

    This is a very old-fashioned, heavy, feminine musk/floral, the kind your grandmother might have worn in the 1970s. At times it reminded me a bit of Je Reviens, but without the latter's sophistication.

    The clove/cinammon accord quickly fades and one gets the full force of the combined heavy florals. The base notes blend beautifully with none outstanding for an overall warm musky support, but the heaviness of the florals make it a cologne that must be used very sparingly or it will become cloying and unpleasant.

    Along with another of their old-fashioned florals, Victorian Posy, this has more of an historical interest than for present day feminine scent use.

    21st June, 2011.

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    Amaranthine by Penhaligon's

    This strikes me as another interpretation of their Zizonia, a scent from the 1930s. Amarinthe is a sensual, warm scent with the intoxicating suggestion of a warm body oils mixed within. The green tea, jasmine, and musk are all evident at first splash - I was reminded of Caswell Massey's Casma - vanilla, rose, sandalwood then mix with these initial notes and bring about that warm accord.

    In the drydown I am reminded of the effect of sweetened cedarwood, although that is not listed as an ingredient. A more complex version of Zizonia and a better buy than the older scent, in my opinion

    Strictly speaking, this is a fougere - warm, round and comforting.

    20th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 5th September, 2011.)

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    Extract of Limes by Penhaligon's

    This is the only Penhaligon's scent thus far to get a negative review from me. I agree completely with the reviewers that find this to be a cheat. The opening "lime" burst is exactly that of a restroom disinfectant - cheap and slimy. No fear - it's gone in ten minutes, leaving a warm woody petigrain - and that's it. It should be named Extract of Petitgrain. This is an outright failure in my opinion and ought to be discontinued again- why ever was it brought back?

    Stick to the best lime available - Trumper's Extract of West Indian Limes. Caswell Massey's Lime, though a bit sweet and candyish, is acceptable as well.

    20th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Zizonia by Penhaligon's

    This is a warm, woody, sensual and subtle oriental. The mix of amber, cedarwood and patchouly blend nicely with an undercoating of sandalwood. The black pepper rises to the top and stays nicely floating over these warm notes. This is a perfectly pleasant cologne, though nothing spectacular or out of the ordinary.

    20th June, 2011. (Last Edited: 13rd July, 2011.)

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    Verde by L'Erbolario

    This is a marvelous summer cologne. Masculine, sophisticated, a mere touch of sweetness witih an underlying dryness. Quite unlike anything I've ever tried before and totally refreshing.

    Very hard to identify any ingredients - it does not resemble anything I've tried in the past.

    I recommend you try one of the less expensive items in the range -soap or men's face cream before you invest in the cologne. L'Erbolario is not always consistent in using the same scent throughout a range, but they are with this one. The face cream decided it for me.

    [Beware their Myrtle - the soap scent resembles Magno, but the cologne is vile - one of the strongest cyphres I've ever encountered. Nothing like the soap scent- I returned it.]

    13rd June, 2011.

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    Cradle of Light by CB I Hate Perfume

    A very unusual vetiver - dark and earthy, blended with the bright sweetness of birch. The opening is of a dark, sultry jasmine, which is gone within ten minutes, leaving the original idea of matching birch and vetiver - an unusual and welcome scent combo.

    This is worth trying for all lovers of vetiver.

    11th May, 2011.

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    À la Nuit by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Superb rendition of pure jasmine - for both men and women. On men it will mix with body oils to "masculinize" it - is that a word? - in about an hour. Long lasting - an evening's worth easily.

    This is the sort of cologne one would expect a gorgeous Northern Italian model to wear - Botticelli face and form - soft, gentle, yet quietly masculine and refined.l

    This is at the same time both the king and queen of jasmine scents.

    10th May, 2011.

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    Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmine by Giorgio Armani

    This is an unremarkable light scent, jasmine not distinguishable - it could be any light floral. Slightly sweet, poor sillage. At $35 a bottle it would be perfectly acceptable, but at $95, it is a rip off.

    If you are seeking jasmine, purchase the best - Serge Lutens A La Nuit.

    10th May, 2011.

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    Eaux De Vetiver De La Reunion by L'Erbolario

    This is quite a harsh cyphre cologne with no detectable Vetiver to my nose. It was so vile, so repellent (I loathe cyphres, can you guess), that I returned the bottle. I usually sample this line by trying the inexpensive soaps, but none was available for this vetiver, thus requiring me to purchase a bottle. Never again.

    By the way it is the identical scent to their Myrtle Cologne, which I also bought and returned because I depended on their Mytle soap scent being identical to their cologne scent - not so. The Mytle soap has a lovely "fern" scent, reminiscent of the Magno line - the cologne has nothing to do with it - a rip off in misprepresentation.

    Perhaps they just create one scent and give it different names and packagings. Very disappointing.

    4th May, 2011.

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

    My nose could hardly detect this scent, no matter how often I tried it.

    An initial burst of lemon which quickly disappears, to leave behind a light cedar/nutmeg scent.

    Perhaps too sophisticated for my nose.

    10th March, 2009.

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    Monsieur Balmain (new) by Pierre Balmain

    A burst of fresh squeezed lemon that lasts about half an hour. This is suddenly gone, to be replaced by a light oakmoss.

    Definitely not for those seeking a long lasting lemon scent, but one of the truest lemons (for the brief while it lasts) on the market.

    10th March, 2009.

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    Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron

    I have searched for the mix of oils that make up this scent for thirty years. Caswell Massey's original line of hand made potpourris, long out of production, contained one entitled Chrysanthemum and the unique mixture of oils that enriched this potpourri is the identical blend that surfaces in Boucherons Pour Homme. How wonderful to finally find an old friend after all this time.

    After a burst of lemon, this subtle, sweet, musky woodsy scent takes over and stays with you for many hours. From the reviews, I realize you either love it or hate it and I love it. I'm ordering a bottle today.

    10th March, 2009.

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    Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma

    I wanted so to like this - who wouldn't want to smell like Audrey Hepburn or Cary Grant? It starts out as a burst of lemon (true) that lasts for about half an hour, then settles down to a menthol note, that to my nose was too medicinal to like.

    It is perhaps too subtle for my nose, so although I didn't care for it, it is still worthy of interest to others.

    10th March, 2009.

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    Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

    For the first half hour I loved this - fresh, tart lemon that stayed with me. Then the lemon totally disappeared to be replaced with a subtle oakmoss. I kept hoping the lemon would return but alas, it did not.

    So, although this is quite pleasant it is not the long lasting lemon scent I was seeking.

    6th March, 2009.

    Showing 1 to 30 of 85.

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