Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Smelly Beast

Total Reviews: 20

Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d'Orange

I got this bottle as a joke, I wanted to blind buy a highly controversial fragrance and I ended up getting this one and Lutens Musc Koublai Kahn. When I first smelled Secretions i just laughed because i didnt expect it to smell the way it does. Its a cloying aquatic white floral that smells metallic and chemical, the fisrt representing blood and the second semen.

I wasn't shocked as I expected but the blood note is VERY disturbing on my skin and makes me wanna puke. And the worst thing is that it sticks to skin like nothing else. I tok a bath to take it out and it didn't work. It lasted all day long...

In the end you get a very bold concept and a highly unwearable fragrance. To gimmicky for my opinion

1 ouf of 5
23rd March, 2013

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

A great woddy aromatic perfect for everyday use. Its very versatil you can wear in any ocasion and any weather (on summer just a couple of sprays will do the trick). Its not linear but it doesn't evolve significantly eather.

It opens very green and fresh, I detect cardamom and juniper the overal felling is woody, dusty and has hints of cut grass I also smell somenthing sparkling and earthy here almost like coke. Then the aromatic accord fades and you are left with the dry woddy heart. Now here its all about ceder, sandalwood and I dare say oud (eventhoug i'm not sure it is realy here) Its very creamy, dry and cedery, like if you where smelling wood that was recently cut, and I must say it is somewhat a bit resinous too. Very whell done!

Now the bottom is the olnly part that I don´t love, but I like. Its very sinthetic and almost cheap, but they menaged to escape the green sinthetic woods accord that you find in other fragrances, and I guess this is mostly because of the sandalwood used here. Its like walking on a fine line withouth falling (writting this I just remembered the french guy who crossed the Twin Towers on a line).

I think Ormonde Jayne managed to create a chic and modern fragrence perfect for the young english gentleman

4 out of 5
22nd March, 2013

Cuir de Russie Parfum by Chanel

Cuir de Russie Parfum

Cuir de Russie is a masterpiece, and quoting another fellow reviewer from basenotes (of-scenter), it belongs to my pantheon of leathers. Its so beautifully done, the overdose of iris, the smoky birch tar with the citrus in the opening creating a sour animalic aura, its very dark and luxurious at the same time. An image that comes to my mind is Coco wearing a black patent leather cape over a white satin gown or even the famous Helmut Newton photo in witch the model is wearing a Couture Saint Laurent tuxedo.

Beaux and Coco managed to capture the essence of the feminist movement and the free spirit of the contemporary woman, that is, the duality of femininity and amazone fighter. I can see the working girl that uses seduction as a weapon, the dominatrix controlling her male slave and even house wives that knows how to convince their husbands to do what they want. The strange thing its that its is so classical and modern at the same time, i think thats why it reminds me of Yves and Helmut Newton, the erotic gender bender game, women dressing as men, women taking control over their desires and taking care of their lives. I fell like it represents Coco's own personal way of life, financially independent but emotionally dependent of her lovers at the same time.

CdR is a very feminine fragrance and you can smell that because its full of flowers but then again its so masculine, the flowers are very animalic, the birch is incredibly smokey and improper for a women and I think thats what makes this fragrance so grand and important. Its full of contradictions, its very personal, not the type of fragrance you would wear to attract someone but rather to satisfy your own desire. This fragrance and nº19 to me represents much more then nº5 whats Chanel is all about but unfortunately they doesn't get the attention they should specially Cuir de Russie...

5 out of 5
17th February, 2013
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Hermèssence Vanille Galante by Hermès

Vanille Galante is not about vanilla as the name suggests, its all about ylang. JCE managed to create a beautiful floriental that is almost a lilly soliflore. The scent is very light, transparent and refreshing at the same time, something very Ellena and reminiscent of his Un Jardin line.

Its very linear, all I get is Ylang and a very refined vanilla base. Muscs give a slight velvety texture to the fragrance and there's a greenish aquatic vibe that I suspect could be jasmine. What also comes to my mind is orchids, not as dark as the ones you find in Tom Ford creations like Nu edp, but a white orchid, a vanilla flower. I get a similar orchid effect here as on Nu edp but without the chocolate note and incense.

A lot of people say that this is the most feminine creation of the Hermessence line but I disagree I find it very unisex, specially if you like lily. And its also very easy to wear, cause its light and stays close to the skin, its a personal scent. I usually spray it in the interior of my shirt so I keep smelling it trough the hole day.

The composition is so etherial that it reminds me modern aldehydic florals like Nº5 Eau Premier and Iris Poudre, not that they re similar but they share lightness and elegance, they are very bright and clean, just incredibly sophisticated. My favorite from this whole line!

rate 4 ou of 5
12th February, 2013

Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is to me everything I would expect from a fragrance called Tom of Finland. Sexy aldehydes creating a clean skin feeling, a rubber note to mimic the smell of vinyl clothes and sex toys, sweaty skin post coitus.

But at the same time it doesn't fell raunchy, dirty and cheap like you would expect a dark room to smell. It exudes a romantic sexuality, like if you are just playing SM games with your lover and maybe a friend or two. LOL

To me this is one of the best outings from Etat Libre D'Orange and a great modern leather.

Rate 8 out of 10
19th January, 2013

Derby by Guerlain

I don't understand how a fragrance like this became a flop and ended up discontinued. Some say it was due to marketing issues other because it didn't belong to the 80's but to me there is no plausible explanation.

Derby is a modern leather chypre. It is perfect, from the green herbal opening, to the spicy floral heart and the mossy and resinous base. Perfectly balanced and very well kept if you consider all IFRA restrictions. Unfortunately I never tried the original and cant say if things chagend a lot but I can say that it is still a masterpiece, relevant in the industry and smell like a chypre.

At the same time that it holds Guerlains heritage using some classical accords of the brand it represents a departure from the ubiquitous vanilla that some times seem like a cage to their creativity like if everything had to be a new Shalimar or at least be related to it in some way.

Guerlain didn't want to make the same marketing mistakes and relaunched it as a paris exclusive maintaining its status as a cult hard to find fragrance. So if you want Derby you have to go to Paris and thats the kind of exclusivity that makes people curious and wanting for more.
19th January, 2013

Les Elixirs Charnels - Oriental Brûlant by Guerlain

Oriental Brulant is a great vanilla fragrance, leathery, powdery and soft. It also has a creamy orange note that brings a freshness to the composition. Its not a straight forward gourmand cause it has a woody ambery note that gives an animalic almost salty edge, like if there was a beast lurking behind the vanilla pods. That's what makes it great to me because I don't wanna smell like a pastry shop.

I like to think that this is the grand daughter of Shalimar
17th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

Bois des Îles Parfum by Chanel

Probably modern Bois des Iles has nothing to do with Beaux´s original creation since indian sandalwood is forbiden, but its stil magnificent.

Polge cant use real sandalwood but he managed to recreate some of its beautiful facets, the creaminess, the woodiness, the slight incense smell and a very sofisticated gourmand aura. And to make it all just perfect ther´s the classic Chanel touch al over the place, aldehydes, jasmin, ylang, roses and iris are responsable for the fresh and cool abstract flower smell, that lurks in the back ground just to remind you that this is N5 cousin.

Hands down the best sandalwood fragrance in production
16th January, 2013 (last edited: 18th January, 2013)

Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé by Hermès

I'm not a fan o this one, I find it very obvious and boring. Ellena was too literal on his reference, I would expect something a bit more intriguing from him... Maybe he could have explored the dirty and salty aspect of amber to compensate the cinnamon and the apple note. I really dont get why people get so excited over this.
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d'Empire

Azemour is my favorite scent from Parfum D'Empire, It manages to cover every aspect of the orange. You can smell the glorious juicy fruit with its sweet richness, you get the leaves and the orange blossom... So beautiful and poetic almost like classical music.

And If this wasn't enough you get loads of moss and some suede in the dry down, it couldn't be better, I like to think this is a modern take on the idea behind Sous le Vent.

If you are looking for a good chypre for the summer, look no further.
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

Black by Bulgari

Since there's nothing new to say about this masterpiece, I decided just to pay an homage.

I got my first bottle of this elixir from my mother, she bought it and hate it! but for me it was love at first sniff, that glorious dark sweetness, the rubbery leather note and the ambery dry down. That was so intriguing to me, I had never smelled a fragrance like that before! And it became my signature to go out at night. I was a bit shy to rock it because I was a kid and didn't know there was such thing as a unisex fragrance but I wore it anyway regardless of what people might think. Lucky me!

I still have this old bottle (whit the on and off turning cap) the juice became thick and dark just like an extrait and I wear it some times at night to feel cozy and remember of old times...
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

This is a review about the new Habit Rouge edp

Its funny how we can change our mind over time.

I was never a great fan of Habit Rouge, I felt it was too dated and old, the citrus opening bored me and I couldn't get what the fuss was all about. That intrigued me a lot cause I lOVE leather scents.

But then I started to dig Guerlains chest of treasures and I met Jicky. Jicky is a lovely fougere oriental, it opens quite fresh and animalic with some civet and lavender, and slowly evolves to a leathery powder vanilla base needless to say that I immediately fell for it.

You must be asking why am I talking about jicky, its because It made me understand why HR is so good! JPG managed to merry the beautiful powdery guerlinade (That I love) with the citric opening and the leathery animalic undertones in a new and genius way, but alway paying homage to the classics of the brand!

So Habit Rouge edp opens whit a rich and deep citric, sharp smell, this fase lasts a lot in this concentration (I suspect that the oud play a part here, even though I cant smell it) Slowly it evolves to the leathery powder vanilla base (very similar to the jicky one in my opinion) you can clearly smell the leather and the vanilla its beautiful.

To me Habit Rouge is one of the best leathers ever created and will always be on my collection in every concentration and vintage I can get my hands on, Thanks God I changed my mind about it!

15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

3 Cuir Ambre by Prada

Cuir Ambree is a very sophisticated and luxurious leather full of spices, iris and heliotrope in an animalic background, that i think is castoreum, and uses patchouli and moss to gives a chypre feel to the composition. The scent is very personal and stays close to the skin. The concentration is somewhat in the middle between parfum and edp, but works great when dabbed freely.

Its similar to Cuir Mauresque and Knize Ten but it has its own point of view and lots to say. If you come by in a Prada store, try it!
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)
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Patchouli Impérial by Christian Dior

What I like very much about Patchouli Imperial, is that it manages to cover differents aspects of patchouli in one fragrance. I sense the powdery, the earthy, the dirty, the fresh mentholated and the gourmand aspects of the patchouli. They dont show up at the same time but in diferent moments fighting to get front stage. On topo of that you have the addition of coriander enhancing the animalic qualities (to some it might smell of arm pit) I can see some similarities with oud leather, they both have a woody animalic transperent quality in the oppening, but PI turns more mellow and gourmand in the drydown I suspect bacause of amber and cinamon.

I think its a very sophisticated patch, and belongs to my list of favorite patches together with Coromandel, Broneo, Patchouli Intrigant, Coze and Farmacia Anunziata´s Patchouli.
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

Vol de Nuit is one of my favorite Guerlains, A green chypre that has a green bitter and animalic oppening that evolves to a powdery floral with lots of iris and sandalwood and then to the classic guerlain base just Glorious! It evokes to me lost hollywood glamour from the 30´s and 40´s, rich women wearing furs and diamonds to go to dinner parties and al sort of stravagant luxury.

My favorite bottle is a vintage edt (late 80´s) that i got on ebay. You can smell the difference right away. Its much more animalic (i guess because of animal muscs), greener and mossier and I also think it used to have real sandalwood cause the scent blends with my skin. The new edt is much more soft and plush, I get more aldehydes its cleaner, but its still wonderful.

If you cant find a vintage edt go with the new parfum. As for me, I wear some drops of the new parfum and a couple of sprays of the viintage edt. It cant get better than this! (actualy it could if I find a good vintage parfum bottle!)
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 18th January, 2013)

Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

One of my personal favorits. It opens with lots of violette leaf, very green, earthy and bitter. I get tons of birch tar too giving a nice smoky anbience and some spices to balance the composition. AS It drys it gests softer but still wodsy and dry, I also get some honey. The suede in it is very luxurious and soft but not buttery or creamy the image that comes to my mind is a Prada suede jacket. The composition is very modern and very transparent but also retro in a way because o the tar. Its very unique, I´ve never smelled a russian leather like this. It lasts all day but its a skin scent. Usually when I travell this is my scent, very versatile and it gives me confidence.
17th July, 2012

Aoud Cuir D'Arabie by Montale

The first thing you get when you apply this is a very barnyard, fecal note, I'm not sure if this is caused by cambodian oud or a very animalic leather. But once you pass that stage the whole composition gets softer and a toned down version of the classic rose oud Montale combo emerges. I also get a pipe tobacco smell together with the leather in this stage that is very interesting. While it evolves the composition becomes very resinous, leathery and animalic, it gets very close to the skin becoming a skin scent, and when you think the scent is gone, you suddenly get a waft of it trough the air. Just marvelous!

I confess that the first time i tested it I got shocked by the opening accord. But then it started growing on me and I became addicted to its leathery, resinous and animalic characteristics, I think this is the best Montale I have tested this far. Highly recommended for all leather freaks out there.
11th July, 2012 (last edited: 16th August, 2012)

Route du Vétiver by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Route du Vetiver is together with Sycomore, Vetiver Extraordinaire and Sel de Vetiver one of the best vetiver fragrances I have tried so far. I can only imagine how fabulous must have been the original version as people say it was darker and stronger.
But dont be fooled buy appearances. It´s still a very bold and extreme scent.

In the opening I get a very sharp, dark and green smell of vetiver. It´s also wet and dirty like if you just pulled it out of wet dirt. I also get the smell of black current enhancing the dark aspect of the fragrance with its bitter and dry (not sweet) fruitiness. After that it becamos softer, and the dark rooty vetiver dominates the fragrance. In this fase I notice that the fragrance gets closer to the skin but I can smell it from time to time on me, I think it creates a clowd.

The nicest thing about it to me is that even though Route du Vetiver has a strong and dark vetiver note the whole composition is very trasparent and even a bit fresh. I love to wear this in a summer night wearing a white linen shirt. I feel very powerful, masculine and confident.
05th July, 2012 (last edited: 16th August, 2012)

Knize Ten by Knize

The first time I wore Knize Ten I understood why it is still in production after almost ninety year of its launch. Its because it's the best masculine scent out there, a very rich and opulent leather based composition.
The opening is a blast of leather and tobacco. Then the tobacco softens leaving a classic ambery leather accord, you can still smell the tobacco, but it stays more on the back ground giving a smoky ambiance. In the next fase I get Cuir Mauresque, an oily, animalc, almody leather but instead of the dried orange you have spices (clove?) rose and jasmine. It has also a powdery quality that is lovely. As it dries down it gets softer, and amber starts to dominate the fragrance along with the leather. Just perfect. Longevity and projection is excellent, price tag is incredible and its easy to find. So what are you waiting for to get your bottle?
This is a must have in any leather lover.
05th July, 2012

Sycomore Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Sycomore is definetely the best vetiver out there IMHO. The vetiver is very proiminent giving a dark, dry, rooty woodines to the composition and Its very smoky and pepery too, almost incensy, I guess its because of the tabaco and the pink pepper. It´s not as angular or out there as it may seem though. The sandalwood and the aldehydes cut all the pointy corners making it very confortable an cousy to wear. Often people compare it to Encre Noir, they are indeed similar but Sycomore is much more polite and elegant.
A must in every vetiver lover collection.
04th July, 2012