Wazamba by Parfum d'Empire - Initially, one is treated to a rush of smoky, colophony incense commingling with the Christmas tree aroma of balsam fir. At once, one is immersed in the resinous warmth of a lively incense coupled with the somewhat minty coolness of fir, creating an illusion of a forest floor with crushed needles and embers from a dying fire. A sweep of aldehyde provides a fizzy greenness. And, a faint backdrop of a slightly tart and clean apple also presents. Transitioning to the heart, the incense is relegated to the background while a cool and medicinal myrrh vies with a warm and sweet opopanax. And, an odoriferous labdanum imparts its warm and sweet, ambergris character. The enhanced resins flow to the receptive base. A gentle sandalwood, with its buttery and softly sweet woodiness, lifts the resinous, incense concoction. A soothing cypress infuses its pine-like woodiness with an ambergris nuance. A mystically comforting drydown ensues. This exotic composition is unisex, but leans to the masculine side. A rather unique scent, it has average, radiating projection, and good longevity, about 11 hours.
Tubereuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens - I own and enjoy this composition which mirrors a phoenix, the tuberose, rising out of a flood of camphoraceous petrol, to reveal its dark and sensuous qualities, magically subduing those that care to inhale.
Sung Homme by Alfred Sung is a decent, manly, fresh and soapy scent, with very good projection and longevity. Just be easy on the trigger.
Sienne L'Hiver by Eau d'Italie - One is initially treated to a rush of herbal greenness. The peppery verdancy of geranium leaf intermingles with the mowed grass, tinged with cucumber, of violet leaf. A faint sweetness from rushes and fern drift in the background. Transitioning to the heart, an animalic castoreum, with its mesmerizing salty, oily, sweaty, smoky and nutty aspects, bathes the greens in an exotic, abraded-leather aura. Iris root parades it woody floralcy, while white truffle imparts its strangely elegant, sulphuric nuances. And, frankincense flaunts its balsamic and faintly mineral, mystical aromatics. Segueing to the base, an intriguing wave of petrichor gives the illusion of raindrops spashing on cobblestones, while hay casts its sweetly warm and pungent character. Guaic wood infuses its rosy and faintly smoky woodiness. And, labdanum presents its resinous nuances of ambergris and incense, as well as tar and leather. A wondrous drydown ensues. A truly masculine scent, this well-blended and high-quality composition has radiating projection and very good longevity, about 10 hours.
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior - Admittedly, with its dark and somewhat complex opening, with its petro-grungy facets melding with lush greenness, it could prove challenging. However, the overall scent is, perhaps, one of the best, green scents. The nuances from the opening, middle and base were and are the epitome of a ground-breaking scent, and, to me, defines sexy, classy and sophisticated.
Arso by Profumum - Upon application, one is treated to a rush of balsam fir, with its faintly fruity and terpenic woodiness. This Christmas tree aroma is, at once, sappy and resinous, with a somewhat bracing and clean quality. Waves of birch tar infuse its burnt-forest and campfire smokiness, as well as hints of bald leather, while a clove bud presents its charred-wood character. An entrancing and lively, colophony incense wafts about. And, an undercurrent of thuja, from cedar leaf, can be sensed with its woody, camphor scent, akin to menthol-like notes. A buttery, cedar chest aura from Virginia cedar couples with an anisaldehyde with its soft and sweet, licorice aroma, akin to Shoelace Sweets, and vies with the singed-conifer/leather/incense cocktail. A Peru balsam presents with its sweetly vanillic woodiness, with a urine phantom, while fir moss supplies its earthy and mouldy character, reminiscent of bark, needles and decaying wood on the forest floor. An intriguing drydown ensues. This manly and somewhat exotically unique fragrance has very good projection and longevity, 10 hours or more.
L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer is a wonderful illusion of desert environs and an oasis therein with a spice bazaar. It's nicely versatile, wear it whenever it strikes your fancy, but, easy on the trigger.
A Taste of Heaven by By Kilian - Upon application, one is treated to an invigorating and herbal, lavender accord. The fresh and clean lavender commingles with the pungent, medicinal bitterness of wormwood. An aldehyde-like effervescence can be sensed as the accord percolates and drifts to the heart. Here, in the middle, florals infuse and transform the lavender. Orange blossom, with its fruity sweetness, a sweet rose, as well as bourbon geranium, with its flowery and sweetly green facets, usurp the lavender. The lavender takes on a more floral slant. A hint of saltiness flutters about. Segueing to the mellow base, the woody resins of amber interplay with the vanillic, nutty and somehwat spicy aspects of tonka bean. A more camphoraceous and slightly smoky lavender develops. A touch of powderiness presents. Plumes of foresty oakmoss as well as earthy patchouli appear here and there. A shower of bourbon vanilla imparts its woody and aromatic facets. The fascinating blending of the foregoing leads to a resplendent drydown. This all-season, well-blended, and masculine composition can prove to be very versatile. Wonderfully, this somewhat classy scent has very good projection, a 2-foot scent cloud, and longevity, about 10 hours.
Mandarina Duck Pure Black by Mandarina Duck - Initially, one is treated to a fresh orange. Tangerine, with its bright and tangy, orange facets, commingles with bergamot, with its bitterwsweet, orangey and a slightly peppery character. Indian pepper, with its earthy and woody mustiness, serves as an undercurrent, carrying the citric accord to the heart. Here, the citrus is subsumed by tonka bean, which imparts its creamy aspects of vanilla, cinnamon, clove, cherry, and almond. Orange blossom bestows its sweetly indolic, citric, floral accents. And, exotic, Tahitian tare infuses its softly sweet and creamy, tuberose-like and somewhat balmy floral. This remarkable melange flows nicely to the slightly tempering base. The resplendent tonka bean marries with a full-bodied, dark and faintly smoky vanilla. Woods, in the form of a creamy and soft sandalwood, as well as a greenish, balsamic cedar, winningly temper the sweetness. A pleasing drydown ensues. Far from being a dark and brooding scent, as the appellation may suggest, this wonderful composition is bright and sweet, yet retaining its masculine slant. Its projection is good, a 3-hour scent cloud before becoming a skin scent, and its longevity is average.
Norne by Slumberhouse - Upon application, one is treated to a stand of black hemlocks. The scent of pine needles, pine sap and pine bark creates a coniferous delight. The smoky and sweetly charred-wood facets of clove waft about creating the illusion of a distant campfire somewhere. Transitioning, a resinous, camphor aura comes into its own reminding of crushed-pine needles. Crestworts supply an aromatic mustiness, while champignon contributes its mouldy, mushroom aspects. Moss and lichen, with their dank and earthy character, completes the forest undergrowth mirage. The foresty pines segue to the base where a colophony incense sprinkles its splendid, aromatic, pine resin and smokiness. while a joyful woodiness from pepper flutters about. A spiritual element is added to the outdoorsy pine. A pleasing drydown ensues. This masculine, nature-loving composition has very good projection and longevity.
Mandarina Duck Man by Mandarina Duck - One is initially slapped with a tangy grapefruit. It is quickly followed by a fresh, lusciously ripe peach, as well as a full-bodied, blood orange. A nascent undercurrent of spice carries this fruity medley to the middle. Here, nutmeg, with its sweetly cinnamon-like facet, cardamon, with its sweet, spicy and woody aromatics, as well as caraway, with its sweetly licorice-like aroma, shower the hodgepodge of fruits. Transitioning to the soft base, while the grapefruit fades, the spicy peach and orange interplay with a clean, dryer sheet-like musk. A whisper of green earthiness from vetiver also presents. A pleasing drydown ensues. This light and summery composition is definitely unisex, in spite of its name. And, it is basically a skin scent with subpar longevity, 4 hours at most. In view of the foregoing, I am being very charitable in giving it a Neutral Rating.
Five O'Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens - One in initially treated to a lemony accord. Bergamot, with its bittersweet and peppery facets, commingles with a robust, sweetly floral, Earl Grey tea. This tart and tangy mixture, almost effervescent, is carried on an undercurrent of ginger, which infuses its sweet and lemony facets, to the heart. Here, the warmth and spiciness of cinnamon and a hint of nutmeg shower the lemony opening, lifting a gingerbread accord, reminiscent of speculoos, with their rich sweetness and spiciness. A balsamic and faintly buttery woodiness from cedar carries the seductive accord to the base. Transitioning, the smooth cedar is tempered by a woody and lively pepper flittering about, akin to incense, and honey, which imparts its sweetness with a touch of urine. A resinous amber infuses its vanillic and smoky facets. And, a somewhat dark and slightly musky patchouli diffuses its aromatic earthiness. A dusting of bitter cacao also presents. The interplay of the foregoing leads to a comforting drydown. This unisex fragrance leans to the masculine side, and is light and bright. A festive composition, it has average projection, a 1-foot scent cloud, and average longevity, approximately 8 hours.
Visit for Men by Azzaro - One is initially treated to a wave of spice. An abundant nutmeg, with its soft and sweet, cinnamon-like character, couples with cardamon, with its slightly woody and anise-like facets, pink pepper, with its fruity and tart highlights, as well as ginger, with its peppery, lightly sweet, and faint lemony aspects. A menthol-like undercurrent from cedar leaves carries the stirring brew to the heart. Here, the Atlas cedar comes into its own, imparting its richly balsamic and camphoraceous accord, and vies with a lively incense, with its resinous, myrrh-like smokiness, for dominance. Guiacwood infuses its tea-rose woodiness, while a muted nutmeg is relegated to the background. Transitioning to the base, a skin-like musk intermingles with a ambergris, with its fleshy, slightly leathery and sweet woodiness. The bustling incense flitters about in the background. A pleasant drydown ensues. This masculine and well-done composition has very good projection, a 2-foot scent cloud, and very good longevity, about 10 hours; resultantly, spray sparingly. This appealing fragrance can be had rather inexpensively.
Bois d'Encens by Giorgio Armani - Initially, one is treated to a surge of peppery incense. A pepper triumvirate, consisting of black pepper with its woody and smooth facets, a slight barnyardy, white pepper, as well as a tart, pink pepper, marries with a sumputously resinous frankincense, with its wondrous pine and ever-so-slight, lemon accents. A whisper of juniper berry, with its gin-like aspect, tiptoes here and there. Transitioning to the heart, this thrilling opening is tamed somewhat by a woody vetiver. This genteel vetiver imparts its green freshness with undertones of tobacco and shoe-tree cedar. The frankincense, darkening, diffuses a mystical aura reminiscent of a Roman Catholic High Mass celebration. Cedar leaves, with their menthol-ish character, flutter about subtly. Segueing to the mellowing base, this splendid melange is imbued with an able cedar, which infuses its slightly camphoraceous and balsamic woodiness. And, a luminous frankincense appears lifted by magical salicylate. A captivating drydown ensues. Regrettably, although this composition is masculine and elegant, it remains a skin scent with below-average longevity.
Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta - Upon application, one is treated to a gust of freshness supplied by the orangey and peppery bergamot marrying with the sweetly fruity and spicy, pink pepper. Transitioning to the middle, a green, indolic, orange blossom-like jasmine encases the fresh opening. And, a subtle, Spanish leather reminiscent of a satchel with a suede interior infuses the floral jasmine, with its essences of generic herbs, fruits and flowers. Plums and apricots dart here and there, while an earthy and woody patchouli tempers the fruitiness and sweetness. A faint and errant aroma of nail polish remover can also be sensed. Segueing to the alluring base, a somewhat bitter and green oakmoss imparts its foresty and dark facets. A faintly burnt-sugar aspect from benzoin presents, resulting in a slightly powdery and caramel character, while a woody vanilla flitters about. The patchouli has come into its own with its greenness and woodiness enhancing a nutty nuance. An entrancing drydown ensues. This well-blended and balanced composition epitomizes understated elegance, and is basically a skin scent with good longevity, 8+ hours. Albeit tettering on the feminine side, this beautiful scent can be enjoyed and worn by the genteel members of both sexes.
L'Essence de Cerruti by Cerruti - One is initially treated to an invigorating bergamot, with its orangey bittersweetness and peppery facets. The freshness of the bergamot commingles with the compost-like and ever-so-slight barnyard aspects of white pepper. Segueing to the middle, the mintiness of birch encases the fresh opening, and infuses its wintergreen sweetness. A raw and somewhat phenolic leather wafts in the background along with the hay-like character of saffron. Transitioning to the comforting base, a creamy cedar infuses its resinous and camphoraceous woodiness, along with the sweetly vanillic and faintly earthy quality of amber. A sensual, fur/skin-like and warm musk also presents. An alluring drydown ensues. This masculine composition is well blended, and has good longevity, 8+ hours, and average projection, being light enough for an office scent. Given its very reasonable, price point, this versatile and somewhat elegant composition is worthy of purchase.
Tokyo Milk - Honey and the Moon No. 10 is a sweet honey with sugary florals and a hint of creamy sandalwood. Albeit somewhat linear, it's a reasonably-priced, feminine fragrance.
L'Etre Aime Homme by Divine - One is initially treated to a citrusy and fresh accord. The herb-like floral of lavender imparts its freshness. Bergamot contributes its bittersweetness. Ginger sprinkles its lively and fresh aspects, while basil adds its leafy greenness with a wisp of mint. A somewhat bitter celery seed intrudes from time to time. Transitioning to the heart, cardamon, with its sweetly spicy aroma, encases the opening melange. And, immortelle imparts its fengreek-like maple and curry facets. An undercurrent of vetiver, with its earthy and green character carries the grassy and spicy middle to the rather generic base. Here, a creamy sandalwood, a woodsy patchouli, as well as a balsamic and resinous cissus, with its accessions of ambergris, leather, smoke and sweetness, all commingle and lift a more caramel-like helichrysum. A comforting drydown ensues. This well-balanced and masculine composition is basically a skin scent with average longevity. Nothing exceptional, it is ho-hum.
Oxygene Homme by Lanvin - a peppery, airy and woody fragrance that is an all-season scent, and will work in the summer.
Lanvin L'Homme Sport by Lanvin - a clean and fresh, slightly spicy, musky and woody fragrance that is an all-season scent, and will work in the summer.
Dirty English by Juicy Couture. A good, manly scent for year round, it's somewhat spicy and woody with loads of a masculine-smelling, leather vibe. Projection and longevity are pretty good too. It's discontinued, but still available. It is inexpensive, and a good scent to have.
Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels - One is initially treated to an exotic, somewhat sparkling, citrus blend. Tart and tangy lemon, along with a rather green and resinous bergamot interplay with a sweetly camphoraceous and aromatic rosemary. An undertone of a birch-tar leather also presents, with a resultant offshoot from its intermingling with the cirtus accord, whereby a phenolic and smoky, rubbery note surfaces. Transitioning to the heart, the leather is bathed in the delicate, green floral of lily of the valley as well as the fresh and vegetal aspects of matcha green tea. A faint, powdery presence can be sensed. And, a nascent styrax, with its vanilla ice-cream facet, serves as a backdrop, and carries the leather brew to its base. Here, the sweetish styrax intermingles with a sweetly vanillic benzoin, with its nuances of almond and cherry, as well as a spicy and creamy, vanilla-like, tonka bean, with its hints of clove, cinnamon and nuttiness. A heightened, powdery feel can be sensed. And, a smokey, sweetish incense flutters about. A markedly sweet drydown ensues. This somewhat elegant composition is androgynous, if not teetering on the feminine side, and has average projection, basically a skin scent, and good longevity, some 8+ hours.
Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier - One is initially treated to a rather sweetly exotic melange. Fig leaf, with its sweet greenness and a whisper of milky coconut, commingles with a steamed-rice character from vetiver as well as the diffusive, cacao aspect of patchouli. An alien, rice pudding-like aroma wafts to the middle. Here, in the heart, patchouli comes into its own, with its dark and mysterious, woody greenness, with mossy and camphoraceous highlights, and wrestles with a dry, bittersweet cacao to encase the rather different opening. The green patchouli and the somewhat baker's dark chocolate-like accords are each pronounced, and flow to the slightly remedial base. Virginia cedar, with its pencil-shavings and buttery facets, interplays with the patchouli/cacao concoction, while vetiver imparts its smoky and foresty greenness. A palliated drydown ensues. This composition is nothing to write home about, but rather is an intermixture of existing scents. Its projection and longevity are average.
Eloge du Traitre by Etat Libre d'Orange - Upon application, one is treated to a whirlwind of pine, with its resinous and camphoraceous character, commingling with the lightly herbaceous and slightly medicinal aspects of artemisia, as well as the somewhat mentholish woodiness of laurel. A hint of musky sweetness wafts in the background. Transitioning to the heart, the diffusive, floral fruitiness of jasmine, along with the singular, leafy greenness of geranium, enhance the balsamic, pine-needle freshness of the opening. A dusting of clove adds its musty and charred-wood aspects. Segueing to the base, an animalic and smoky leather interplays with the sweetly camphoraceous and earthy woodiness of patchouli. A somewhat dark and musty musk flutters about. A comforting drydown ensues. A welcomed addition to one's wardrobe, this manly and outdoorsy composition is well blended and balanced, with average projection and longevity.
Black Soul by Ted Lapidus - Upon application, one is treated to a pleasing blend from the interplay of a bittersweet and peppery bergamot, a crisp and fresh, lemon blossom, a spicy cardamon, a slightly indolic neroli and a refreshing mint. Consequently, an all-too-familiar, sweet and spicy, bubble-gum smell materializes and wafts to the waiting heart. Here, in the middle, the bubble-gum-ish opening is immersed in an enveloping bath of fruity, medjool dates and raisins, sweetly warm and earthy cinnamon, and a hay-like and slightly honeyed floral from saffron. Transitioning to the alluring base, Chinese cedarwood imparts its camphoraceous, pencil shaving scent, while tolu balsam infuses its balsamic and cinnamic facets. A sweet and airy woodiness from gaiacwood also presents. Ambrocenide contributes its amber-like, woody character, while musk diffuses its soft and sweetly clean nuances. A comforting drydown ensues. This masculine, refined composition has average projection and average longevity, lasting about 8 hours.
Bergamote 22 by Le Labo - One is initially treated to a citrus whirlwind. Bergamot, with its bitter and orangey as well as faintly peppery facets commingle with the tanginess of grapefruit. Petitgrain supplies a woody and green undertone to the sparkling citrus. Transitioning to the enhancing heart, the bittersweet bergamot is bathed with the sweetness and somewhat indolic character of orange blossom as well as the fresh and mildly camphoraceous character of aspic. Nutmeg with its softly and sweetly cinnamon-like spiciness mists the melange. Segueing to the appealing base, the enhanced bergamot interplays with the slightly sweet and creamy cedarwood, the laundered-linen illusion from musk, as well as the velvety, play-doh aspects of amber. A green, almost watery, and leafy vetiver provides a carpet for the mixture to flow to its comforting and refreshing drydown. This high-quality and well-blended composition is made for summer and casual wear. It has average projection and longevity. However, besides its limited versatility aforesaid, the scent is nonetheless trite, and, as such, its price point cannot be justified.
Noir de Noir by Tom Ford - One is initially treated to an intriguing, floral accord. A sensual rose, not a pretty and prim rose, but a dusty and dark rose, nicely commingles with enchanting saffron with its earthy, dried-flower and faintly honeyed facets. Transitioning to the accretive heart, a demure oud encapsulates the majestic rose with its medicinal, yet sweet, and lightly smoky elements. Black truffle sprinkle the rose with its musky earthiness with hints of some dirtiness. Segueing to the alluring base, tree moss infuses the melange with its terpentine-like, pine needle aura adding a touch of mouldiness. Versatile patchouli imparts its slightly spicy and musty, peat moss character. A vanilla adds its woody and semi-sweet aspects. And, a faint cocoa smell flutters about. The interplay of the foregoing leads to an enticing drydown. This elegant, unisex composition is high quality and well blended. Bordering on the dramatic, this dark and sensuous scent has good projection and very good longevity.
Mauboussin Homme by Mauboussin - One is initially treated to a fresh lavender and bittersweet bergamot concoction. Lavender infuses its herbal, floral freshness, with a tinge of smokiness, and commingles with the peppery and orangey bergamot. Rosemary showers the refreshing brew with its camphoraceous and faintly terpenic facets. Transitioning to the heart, herbaceous sage and spicy cinnamon veil the refreshing opening with their unusal pairing. Patchouli diffuses its woody greenness with an attendant grassy and slightly camphorous sensation. Segueing to the base, the rich patchouli is embraced by a creamy and balsamic sandalwood as well as the woody semi-sweetness of vanilla. An alluring warm and fur-like musk, with a touch of powder, flutters about. An inviting drydown ensues. This well-blended composition is somewhat dark and sensuous. However, regrettably, given its rather sparse density, its projection and longevity are both limited and subpar.
Bleecker Street by Bond No. 9 - Upon application, one is treated to a rush of sharp greenness. Violet leaf, with its freshly mowed grass and a hint of cucumber character, commingles rather nicely with cassis, with its black currant fruitiness and slight, cat urine smell. Thyme showers the melange with its herbal, savory facet. Transitioning to the middle, this crisp, green opening is beclouded with an aromatic and somewhat buttery cedarwood, as well as a warm and spicy cinnamon. And, a pixieish jasmine flutters softly with its fruity sweetness. Segueing to the base, a chamois-like suede, with its slightly floral, spicy and fruity, tannery aura, interplays with a woody and sweetish vanilla. And, oakmoss infuses its dank, forest-like earthiness with a bit of powder, while patchouli imparts its grassy and woody aspects. A sweetish woody flavor is supplied by magical amber. All intermingle and provide an uplifting drydown. This masculine and somewhat light composition is masterfully blended, and has good projection and longevity.
Zirh Ikon by Zirh - One is initially treated to a zesty lemonade. Tart and tangy lemon interplays with davona flower, with its sweetly fruity aspect, and cardamon, with its mildly spicy, anise-tinged facets. Ginger sprinkles the melange with its peppery, lemony and green character. Transitioning to the heart, the citric brew succumbs to the darker aspects of the scent. Labdanum infuses its resinous, myrhh-like and slightly leather-like facets, commingling with a raw, spicy cinnamon as well as clove buds, with their charred wood and smokey aroma. An undercurrent of a citrusy, pine-like frankincense and earthy, green vetiver adds to the mystical aura, and flows to the base. Here, a rich amber alters the accommodating frankincense, which has come into its own, to a darker character. And, an almost creamy cedarwood intermingles with a balsamic patchouli, which imparts its earthiness coupled with camphoraceous and mossy nuances. An inviting drydown ensues. This manly composition is well blended, and challenges the domain of niche. A fall and winter scent, this spicy and dark fragrance has good projection, a 2-3 hour, scent cloud, and longevity, about 8 hours. Given its inexpensive price, it is a welcomed addition to one's fragrance wardrobe.