Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Minkymaid

Total Reviews: 48

Phi - Une Rose de Kandahar by Tauer

Rose? Where? Smooth leather, patchouli, tobacco, amber. I agree with the 'fattiness', this is warm, smooth, unctuous - the pomade of the grand vizier. Rose fans may be disappointed, but if you like any of the other notes, it could be for you.
31st December, 2013

Pentachord Verdant by Tauer

I wanted to like this, I really did. But a synthetic sourness keeps making me think of being wrapped in cellophane. For me, there is no overarching composition, more a jangling mixture which leaves me waiting for something that never arrives.
Happily there are many other scents by Mr Tauer which are adorable!
28th December, 2013

Glam Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Pleasant; more about violet than rose. A strong Parma violet sweetie at start with a hint of Fairy washing-up liquid mellows down to a rose and violet blend. The violet is 'violet as I imagine violet should be' almost a cartoon, child's simple violet. A hint of cherry (presumably raspberry from the notes) a bit of ground almond, almost a 'cherry pie' heliotrope scent buried faintly underneath. I like it as a violet scent, rather than rose. Not sure how it is 'glam', to me it's more of an easy-wearing lace-and-bustles nod towards Victoriana.
17th November, 2012
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Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens

Yes! Finally a scent by Serge Lutens that is immediately and consistently attractive, that doesnt clog the air for metres around and that doesn't feel like its a mélange of material that's been stewed for hours. And that is genuinely delicious. A sandalwood to snuggle up to on the sofa, to wrap up in for a morning of autumn-leaf kicking in the park. Would work equally well for men or women (my BF has claimed it - grrr!). A rosy, milky, sandalwood - beautifully complements the natural scent of clean skin.
17th November, 2012

Une Folie de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Like a rich fruit cake; where the weight of spices and dried fruit and time passing has rendered any former sweetness into a bitter dark memory, yet you believe it must be sweet because it's still called 'cake'. This is a nighttime rose, an essence left in the barrels once the girly happy fruity summery roses have been distilled away and forgotten. Under the rose lurks a morbid patchouli that twists the rose into to a not quite so nice graveyard sweetness, the oakmoss and spices adding to the earthiness. I also get licorice and dry incense. My husband thinks this is a great chypre, I find it unsettling and on the edge of nauseous. This doesn't make it bad, just not for me.
11th November, 2012

Musc Maori 04 by Parfumerie Generale

I first sampled this at Les Scenteurs in London. There were three men in the shop - all turned round and said 'you smell gorgeous' (or words to that effect). So, does it matter if you smell like chocolate milkshake with a cocoa dusting and a raspberry on top - or that men think you smell great. If the point of perfume is to chop it into components and judge it's artistry maybe this scent is simplistic and silly, but if it's to wordlessly alter the perceptions of oneself and others then this straightforward delicious juice has it nailed. And I like chocolate milkshake!
14th October, 2012

Romantina by Juliette Has a Gun

Better in cool weather where the rosy vetiver comes to the fore. In an English summer the orange and vanilla combine to be a rather cloying and faintly putrescent musk.
23rd July, 2012

Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

I know this isn't rated as highly as Après la Mousson by those that 'know' perfume, but of the four Jardin fragrances this is my favourite. Limpid, juicy, scent appears floating like coloured lights under water. The first fragrance that I've found that changes my perception, such that I'm residing within the scent. First Ellana I bought and hasn't been the last. Perfect summer scent. Fortunately this lasts for hours radiantly on my skin, and through to the next day sometimes.
23rd May, 2012

Not a Perfume by Juliette Has a Gun

I agree. It's not a perfume. There's a light scent-a warming of the skin- but that's it. I think if I'd bought a full bottle (rather than the excellent value set of samples from JHAG) I'd be feeling rather disappointed in what I'd got for my money.
26th April, 2012

Écume de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Hmmm ... Bought a sample pack of all the Rosine scents from the boutique in Paris last month. It's a delightful treasure chest of gorgeous rose scents. There will inevitably be a weakest scent and thus far Ecume is in that position. I'm spoilt by Zeste de Rose for lemon- tea freshness, a better light and fresh pairing with rose than the sea spray in Ecume. Twill Rose has a more manly air than Ecume. Feels like the bases have been covered by other, more distinctive, offerings from Rosine. It's not that this is a bad scent, but that it fails to light my fire.
17th April, 2012

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau by Guerlain

An easier start than Shalimar Initial, but still an overpowering, rocky start. Whether the later stages are worth getting through the messy first half hour I'm not sure. I don't know the original Shalimar well enough to make that comparison - but this is an easier and lighter wear than Initial.
16th March, 2012

Vohina by Huitième Art

Peach and honey start out precariously balanced on the top of the hay notes like small children on a tall horse. Once the fragrance settles the hay becomes more dominant, until the scent melds into ... something changeless, sweet and smooth with no distinguishing features. Like a face in a photo that's been so airbrushed into frozen pleasantness it's lost those individual, quirky features that made it alive. Not a bad scent , just left me feeling it was somehow unnecessary.
I get similar indifference to much of Huitieme Art, odd when I like several of Parfumerie Generale's creations.
16th March, 2012

Poussière de Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Starts as a fresh garden red rose and quickly reveals the scent of potpourri in a summer room - dried woods and flowers with the faded rose buds hanging on to their scent. Elegant in an understated way, but in doing this so well, easy to overlook.
08th March, 2012
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Rose Praline by Les Parfums de Rosine

A similar rose-and-white-chocolate idea to Parfumerie Generale's Brulure de Rose. Both are fun and easy to wear. Rosine's take on the theme is a little more sharply rose yet still sweet, than PG's more calorific and rasberry infused version. This may be the hint of tea ( though I don't get the smokiness I'd expect with lapsang). Failed to distinguish the top notes though.
In all, there's room in my rose lover's wardrobe for one of these two, but they are similar enough for me not to have both.
06th March, 2012

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens

Went to Paris with this as top of my must try list. So disappointed that my reaction was 'oh, another iris'. All the hype, the peons of praise, the adulation and ... It was just another iris and sadly it didn't stand out to me.
06th March, 2012

Borneo 1834 by Serge Lutens

Thick, monolithic, bitter cocoa and patchouli dries down to unpleasant bitter residue that taints skin for hours. Chanel's Coromandel also by Sheldrake is along similar ideas but, to me, takes a more interesting journey through cocoa to dark leaves and rich jungle humus and exits politely.
06th March, 2012

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Lily by Comme des Garçons

Running against the herd here! On first sniff my face automatically turned away in aversion. Thin lily-ish scent with screechy green aspect pulled to the fore. Smells cheap and artificial - perhaps if I'd given it time it would have become better as other reviewers seem to think. Or perhaps not for me.
05th March, 2012

Sacrebleu Intense by Nicolaï

Orange, carnation, tuberose, jasmin, touch of cinnamon, bezoinish vanilla. Sweet but not fruity once the initial orange has departed. Close to, the jasmin is not wholly evident, but floats a nose- distance away until displaced by carnation (not cloves). The cinnamon is a mere hint (according to the assistant in PdN in Paris the 'intense' version has vanilla instead of cinnamon, but it's still there to me). Overall less spicy than sacrebleu and therefore easier to wear. Intense is an edp rather than the original sacrebleu which is an edt. However the difference is not just in the concentration, they smell noticeably different, so worth trying both
04th March, 2012

Vanille Intense by Nicolaï

Off scenter's thoughts are bang on with this one. The orange and vanilla custard are so edible I wanted to lick them.Yet there is something else, compelling, I still can't name, which makes this a genuine scent not an accident in a patisserie. However I refrained from purchasing it and went with Odalisque, because something about VI told me it would just go on... and on... and on, without noticeable change.
I do want to eat it though!
04th March, 2012

Zeta by Tauer

Oooh ... This is delicious. Think honey and roses in warm sunshine, with a touch of orange
05th February, 2012

J'Adore by Christian Dior

Peach, rose, soap, safe. Saying anything unpleasant about this scent feels like shouting at a teddy bear - who could be so mean? However, the image of nice mummies having lunch while the washing machine spins in the background springs to mind. I find this a cloying scent lying over fresh laundered clothes. Thousands like it, but its just not for me.
04th February, 2012

Hermèssence Vétiver Tonka by Hermès

Bitter and dry and sweet and nutty. How can it be so set with opposites ? It's fascinating. An image immediately springs to mind- chewing on an old tweed suit. The dryness, maleness and smoky-sweetness I guess.
I see the majority of reviewers are male, and this does seem to slide towards the male camp ( if we do differentiate between male and female fragrances). I'm wearing it, but feeling a little uncomfortable ... like I'm wearing my BF's underpants and hope no one notices! But for women looking to widen their scope towards male-ish scent, this is may be a one to try- probably because it has M.Ellena's airy spaciousness to lighten the experience and therefore soften it.
I like this - I prefer it on my BF - but yes, I like it.
20th November, 2011

Dioressence by Christian Dior

Agh! I don't know where this lilac is coming from. Awfully overpowering attack on the senses. I have an immediate vision of a woman in a 50s B movie clawing at her own face.
12th November, 2011

Diorella by Christian Dior

Barely wearable lemon sorbet. Couldnt get any further with it, sadly. Smelled this on a card. Wouldn't want to put this on my skin.
12th November, 2011

Hermèssence Vanille Galante by Hermès

Put the name aside, and come with an open mind. Vanilla doesn't only describe a scent, but can be a colour, and expression of something plain or unadulterated. So, if you are of a literal mind, yes, you will be disappointed if you think vanilla means only a note in perfumery and that this is what you are chasing. The vanilla is there, but it isn't centre stage, more woven through, and doesnt smell like pudding!
This comes out of the bottle like silk. It's as smooth and delicately luxurious. This scent immediately conjours up a 'felt' experience, not just olfactory. Silk settles on skin. Sweet - lilies? Yang ylang? Jasmine? Suddenly I don't care what it is. I've never liked white flower notes- too piercingly sweet. I don't want to deconstruct this into components I 'don't like' and therefore ruin the experience. And this is beautiful. I have a soft spot for M.Ellena- even though he frustrates at times with awful longevity, or deconstructs something so it becomes more holes than scent. But when he brings his delicate art together just right, it sings. This is one of those times, for me. Big thumbs up for a lily,
white flower whatever it is that I can actually wear ( and more importantly enjoy!)
And-joy of joy- I get a good 8 hours from it!
03rd November, 2011 (last edited: 06th November, 2011)

Wild Fig and Cassis by Jo Malone

Good green fig leaves and wood. Lasts longer than jardin de Kerylos - but without the matters smile inducing delight.
02nd November, 2011

Jardin de Kérylos 16 by Parfumerie Generale

Delightful. Fresh sap-filled woodshavings and green leaves, followed by fig that isn't lost in milky sweetness or mashed into a gloopy pudding. If only it lasted more than 3 hours. Not much sillage, one for secretly rubbing your nose against your own delicious skin and smiling when no ones looking.
31st October, 2011

Angéliques Sous La Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Wet nettles, crushed coriander seeds , peppercorns. Just. Can only tell this is present by sniffing my clean skin and then keeping going over the scent. I can't justify my perfume pounds on something so ephemeral, so, whilst the scent is fine it's getting a thumbs down .
30th October, 2011

The Dreamer by Versace

Don't know who these women are who are falling for guys wearing The Dreamer! An odd and inharmonious mix of rubber and leaf mould - didn't work for this gal when smelling it on a man. Chandler Burr - what were you on about putting this in your top ten?
23rd October, 2011

Après L'ondée by Guerlain

Edt hardly there on me and disappeared in a few minutes- sprayed it into unfragranced body lotion before putting the lotion on and it was still happily doing it's thing after 4 hours. So, good tip from the Guerlain rep there. Unfortunately once I could actually experience it I realised it was not for me. Such a pity, I so wanted to like it.
23rd October, 2011