On my skin Barbara Bui Le Parfum opens with the distinct impression of pencil shavings and dries down to a well blended musky amber, heliotrope and incense. While its linear, its also so well crafted that it feels much more expensive than it is. This is a scent that gives the impression of luminous, glowing, clean skin. It does not cling too close to the wearer, on the contrary, I find it has very good projection and have gotten lots of compliments.
Sillage: fantastic, but soft and not in your face.
Longevity: 8 hours on skin, a solid 10 in my hair.
Overall rating and feel: 10/10. This is a grown up clean musk with dash of incense and without any distracting white florals or fruits. Timeless in its simplicity, this is great fragrance for any occasion.
Review of current formulation EDT:
Y opens with a sharp blast of aldehydes and indistinct green notes. Within a 20 minutes the harshness of the opening faded to a powdery hyacinth and a note that is somewhat reminiscent peach skin. After several hours what remains is a vetiver, oakmoss and powdery aldehyde scent. Beautiful.
Sillage: Good, 4-7 feet
Longevity: Excellent, 14 hours on my skin!
Overall Rating and Feel: 9/10. Even reformulated, Y is a fantastic, understated and under-rated chypre. Well made if a touch "old-fashioned" feeling, probably from the prominent aldehyde notes. Highly wearable and suitable for many occasions, dressed up or dressed down, and appropriate for all ages.
Review of Vintage EDT:
What can I say about Ivoire that hasn't already been said? Its a stunning, soapy, demure green floral that is excellently blended. To say that this perfume has a refined character is an understatement.
The individual notes are hard to pick out with the exception of the aldehydes, oakmoss, chamomile and marigold which on my skin are the most pronounced. Interestingly the aldehydes and oakmoss are most pronounced at the beginning and the chamomile and marigold are most noticeable in the dry down. It doesn't follow the ascribed pyramidal structure as listed above.
While this is absolutely gorgeous, I would NEVER recommend this as a blind buy because of the potentially polarizing green/herbal notes.
Sillage: approximately 10 feet
Longevity: 12 hours on my skin
Overall Rating and Feel: 9/10. This is a VERY GREEN fragrance, in fact one of the greenest I've encountered. It feels very chic, refined and strangely natural given the presence of aldehydes. It would be perfect to wear to a formal luncheon or in the boardroom.
Review of Vintage EDT:
Upon first application, vintage NdSP, is dominated by clean orris root, powdery oakmoss and a hint of citrus. After an hour heart notes briefly appear in whispers of scent: rose and carnation are the only two I can decipher. Finally at about 1 1/2 hours after application this scent dries down to an fantastic warm cedar, surprisingly gentle leather, powdery oakmoss and musky scent.
My personal impressions of are of clean, chic refinement and elegance. I feel the richness of the patchouli underneath the more prominent notes, but I don't actually smell it.
Sillage: about 15 feet
Longevity: 10 hours on my skin
Overall Rating and Feel: 9/10. I wouldn't call this fragrance "green". Rather its character is clean, powdery, and woody refinement. Unbelievably well blended, it ALMOST wears the same from start to finish. Wearable by both sexes IMO. There is something very swoon worthy about the way this smells. This is the perfect scent to wear to an event where you want to stand out in a crowd in a good way.