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When I was in the shop I made the mistake of assuming "Insensée" referred to incense (the French for incense is encens). Vanilla incense cologne sounded like a great idea. But, actually, the proper translation of "Insensée" would be "crazy" or "insane." Is "Insane Vanilla" a fitting title? For me not so much. 3 stars for quality. Although I'm not a fan of the scent, I can tell it's high quality.
Aroma: Even though Atelier Cologne advertises vanilla from Madagascar in the formula, I don't get the richness that implies. To me the vanilla note comes off rather flat. It reminds me of the synthetic vanilla the casinos pump into the air in Las Vegas to mask the stink of cigarettes. I get a subtle impression of the wood and oakmoss, but it's overwhelmed by white musk. Atelier cologne doesn't call out a musk note in their copy but it's definitely there. The overall impression I get is dry vanilla. I bought the travel spray on impulse along with some other Atelier Cologne fragrances and I'm glad I didn't get a bigger bottle. I'm going to use this for layering I think, but...
Projection, Sillage and Longevity: I find Vanille Insensée to have rather powerful projection and strong sillage. I layered with Ambre Nue and this one completely overwhelmed the other. I wore a little only on my wrists and even wearing a jacket that covered by arms I could smell Vanille Insensée quite clearly. It's been about 9 hours now that I'm wearing it and the scent is still making its way to my nose.
Value: I appreciate that Vanille Insensée is available in a .25 oz. travel spray. Like all Atelier Cologne fragrances, the big bottle is a great value at less than $1 per ml.. Vanille Insensée is also quite strong and a little will go a long way.
Pros: Strong projection, sillage and longevity
20th June, 2013
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Fresh, well-balanced amber
Aroma: Quite fresh for an amber fragrance. The opening notes of green mandarin and bergamot definitely lighten the richness of the warmer notes and keep Ambre Nue firmly aligned with the cologne family of fragrances. The spice is well balanced, the vanilla isn't obvious. For me the primary note is a surprisingly bright Labdanum.
Sillage, Projection and longevity: Rather soft, which I like. You won't knock people over with this one. More of a "you smell nice" than a "that's a nice fragrance." I'm at 7 hours now and the scent is just barely there. I like that. No hollering snyths. Not much sillage either, it stays personal -- again, I like this. For me there's nothing tackier than walking into a room that stinks of someone's perfume.
Unisex: Yes, definitely. And I think Ambre Nue will layer nicely with other scents you want to lend a bit of warmth.
Value: The big bottle is a great value, a little less than $1 per ml. The 30 ml. is more than twice that. I split the difference and went with the 100 ml. I do wish they did the travel size because I'm loathe to commit to a big bottle, and I like the sleek pen-sized travel spray.
Pros: Balanced, beautiful Labdanum, soft
20th June, 2013