The olfactory equivalent to Metallica's Death Magnetic.
Loud, louder, Interlude Man.
Pathetique is so far the worst perfume from this house. It smells like sweaty armpits that haven't been washed for weeks and you try to cover up the smell with a cheap deodorant.
The first thing that I noticed after "Ariel" settled on my skin is that it’s considerably softer, more gentle, actually totally different in style than the other perfumes by Sammarco, so I think it should be less "polarizing" to folks who found the previous ones too raw. :-)
When "Ariel" hits the skin you are greeted with a strong, leafy green and citrusy fresh accord with a sharp Tuberose, but this accord fades away after a few minutes and the scent turns into a soft and creamy mix of Sandalwood, Orris, Citrus (Ginger, Mandarine) and herbal undertones (although I’m not sure where the notes are coming from as there are no typical herbs listed). There are floral notes as well, but they are more in the background and tie everything together, the only flower that sticks out more is the Tuberose together with Davana. There is also a very faint Tobacco-note providing a slightly smoky background right from the beginning. This stage lasts quite some time and leads to a dry down that consists mostly of sweet and nutty Sandalwood and the soft Tobacco-note. As you can see from my description "Ariel" is a perfume with a distinct evolution whereas the other perfumes from Giovanni are more on the linear side. It’s also the most complex so far. The quality of the (natural) ingredients is very good, but this time they don’t show their raw power and stay more on the polite side. Like mentioned in the beginning this could be a good thing for people who didn’t like the earlier creations and dismissed them as too hardcore. Personally I like the rougher compositions more. Some criticism: "Ariel" can be a bit cloying (Davana?), especially when the dry-down kicks in. Before that the sweetness is nicely counterpointed by the citrus/floral notes and the herbal notes. Longevity is not good (on my skin) which is normal for a natural perfume. Projection is moderate. On the website "Ariel" is described as the most feminine perfume from the line and it definitely is. Still I think a guy can pull this off especially in spring or summer. All in all this is a soft, sweet and sensual perfume with a shier personality, seamlessly blended with high-quality ingredients, and it’s entirely different from the other offerings by Sammarco Perfumes. Definitely worth a try!
List of notes: Angelica, Tuberose, Jasmine, Osmanthus, Violet, Rose, Sandalwood, Mandarine, Ginger, Tobacco, Davana and Orris Concrete.
The boring brother of Eau de Gentiane Blanche.
This is pure Iso E Super diluted in alcohol. Folks, don't buy this stuff unless you have too much money and want to get rid of it! This stuff is a rip-off and you could easily produce your own "Molecule 01" at a fraction of the cost!
Right behind "Spicy lavender" comes "Lavanda Fizz", my second favourite from the line. This is how an "Eau de Cologne" should smell like: fresh, natural and easy to wear. No gimmicks, just the classic mixture of Lavender and citrusy notes together with Neroli. What I really like about it is that it's not screechy with high-pitched citrus-notes but it's rather cool and does have a pleasant melancholic vibe. The longevity is shorter with this one but that's okay for an "Eau de Cologne".
List of notes: Lavender, Lavandin, Verbena, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Neroli.
This is my favourite from the line. One of the best, maybe even the best Lavender I had the pleasure to smell. It's hard to write a review because again it is a simple perfume and the name "Spicy Lavender" describes the scent very accurately, so I could stop here. But that wouldn't do justice to the perfume. This is probably the most nostalgic scent I have ever smelled, it transports me directly back to my childhood. It smells like a meadow in the heat of the summer when the grass has turned already brownish, it really brings back the memories when I played on such a meadow as a child. The perfume smells extremely natural, even when compared with other natural perfumes. There is simply nothing "perfumey" about it, but without being so "strange" like the Juniper Ridge-scents. I don't know if it works for others as it does for me, but for me it's simply bottled nostalgia!
List of notes: Lavender, Lavandin, Verbena, Lemon, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Clove, Nutmeg.
Just out of curiosity I have ordered a sample of "Eau du Fier". I had no expectations, so I was neither terribly disappointed nor pleasantly surprised when I smelled it. Yes it is dark and dry, and yes it is smoky, but also very synthetic and one-dimensional. It is absolutely no competition for "Dark Aoud" and "Bois d’Ascese" respectively. Sniffed up-close it is dizzying, smelled from distance it smells like an ordinary shower gel/shampoo underlined with smokiness. Some compared it with smoked tea (Lapsang Souchong), but because I haven’t smelled the tea I can't confirm that. Although it is a very strong scent its longevity is quite short on my skin. "Eau du Fier" is already discontinued which is not not a big loss for the perfume-world and if I had never sampled it that wouldn’t be a tragedy either!
Whenever I hear the words "Chocolate" and "Gourmand" when it comes to perfumes I always make a quick turn, it's simply not my genre. I tried "Bond-T" (What does the name mean?) and was prepared to dislike it, but no, it’s great! Cocoa and Patchouli (together with Tonka and Vanilla) provide the framework for a very interesting note that is embedded in this frame. It could be Osmanthus which is listed as a note but I’m not sure because I don’t know how Osmanthus really smells, it could be also a facet of Patchouli. Anyway, this note smells at times like Tea and at times like Tobacco, and sometimes like the both together! This nice play of notes gives the perfume an incredible depth and sensuality: This amazing Tea/Tobacco-note is floating in a sea of Chocolate! The whole perfume is slightly animalic and smooth as a baby’s bottom. I don’t like the word "sexy" and I normally don’t use it but "Bond-T" definitely is a sexy fragrance! Like the other Sammarco-perfumes it's suitable for men and women. Being all-natural it can't compete with synthetic fragrances when it comes to longevity etc., but that's the price you have to pay if you want to experience a high-quality natural perfume! Me? I'm sold as "Bond-T" is so far the only Gourmand-perfume that I like!
"Vitrum" is a Vetiver-perfume that does everything right. For me Vetiver can be a tricky note because there are some aspects of Vetiver that I like and some not. I don’t like the grassy and overbearingly pungent Vetivers, some even smell like some kind of vegetable. I like my Vetiver smoky, dark and earthy. That’s what you get with "Vitrum". The Vetiver is pitch-black and streamlined, smoky and earthy, at times slightly metallic and even slightly rubbery, and very sophisticated (By the way, that's a quality that all Sammarco-perfumes have in common, they are able to showcase the raw power of the natural ingredients but at the same time they remain very elegant). Some Oakmoss highlights all the good aspects of the Vetiver even further. A good dose of pepper gives additional spiciness to the blend making it even more powerful. In "Vitrum" the Rose plays only a supporting role in the background providing some smoothness to the rather austere blend. Its development is quite linear, only the notes themselves (like the Vetiver) develop a bit, but not so much the perfume as a whole. It becomes quieter and maybe a bit mossier with tiny hints of Frankincense. A little bit criticism: In the late drydown it reminds me of "Terre d’Hermes", a perfume that I rather dislike. Longevity again is not the best and again the performance on fabric is better. The quality of the ingredients is outstanding. This perfume was originally created as a bespoke creation for a female person, but it's easily unisex, even leaning more towards the masculine side in my opinion. It is dandy-like and refined, I could see a person like Pep Guardiola from Bayern München wearing this fragrance! Overall "Vitrum" is a very compelling perfume and one of the best Vetivers I have ever smelled! I think it's also my favourite perfume from Sammarco.
What I like about the brand in general is that there are no fancy stories behind the perfumes. The perfumes and their quality speak for themselves and create their own stories together with the wearer. In the case of "Vitrum" one of the first things that popped up in my head was (not a joke) K.I.T.T., the car from Knight Rider! It must be the pitch-black and streamlined Vetiver that reminds of the body of the car and the Rose adding a blittle bit of redness reminds of the red light thingy in the front of the car. Indeed a very evocative perfume!
"Alter" is a gorgeous Jasmine (and Rose) perfume. Being all-natural the floral notes are not tamed but radiate with all their glory and an almost palpable quality, no aspect of the flowers is covered up, but it‘s still a very elegant perfume. After applying the Rose and Jasmine are on par, about half an hour later the Rose comes more to the center stage, leading then to a nice, slightly animalic drydown. There are other notes as well in "Alter", but I don’t pick them up consciously, they are just rounding out the fragrance. Longevity on my skin is not good (which is normal for all-natural perfumes), after about two hours the perfume turns into a skin scent for a few hours more. Performance on fabric is better. "Alter" is not a dark perfume but the Rose is of the darker kind and gives the perfume a mysterious sunset-vibe! Because of that it’s also easily suitable for men - no need to be afraid of florals! The quality of the ingredients is top-notch! For me personally the Rose is a bit too much emphasised. I am not the biggest fan of Rose in a leading role, that’s why it doesn’t surpass my favourite Jasmine-perfume "Tawaf" where the Rose is much more subdued. Nevertheless this is a great perfume for all Jasmine and Rose lovers who want to smell them in full bloom!
Disappointing! Flat and boring and totally unnecessary!
"König" smells a bit like "Encre Noire" with some apples. The apple-note is not sweet, it's more like those green and refreshing apples, so it actually adds some coolness and freshness to the scent. It has a nice dry and smoky wood-note, but also like "Encre Noire" this synthetic smelling so-called "White Musk" which I dislike and I think there is also a hefty dose of Iso E Super in it. It has sharper edges than "Encre Noire" and it smells a bit more natural, but is still quite synthetic.
All in all it's okay but nothing groundbreaking. I expected a barbaric medieval king in a dark castle, but it smells more like Neuschwanstein!
Smells like a compost heap and triggers the gag reflex!
"Venezia - Giardini Segreti" is after "Milano Caffe" the second perfume in the "Italian Series" by La Via del Profumo. It features notes of Jasmine, Rose, Herbs, Myrrh and real Ambergris.
"Venezia" has a wonderful and vivid Jasmine/Rose-combo, perfectly balanced and beautiful. I detect also something citrusy, could be lemon but also a nice and fresh frankincense. Either way it fits perfectly to the "Secret Garden"-theme. I don't really smell any Myrrh in "Venezia", but maybe it is intended to be that way, just adding some warmth and "mystery" to the scent. The Ambergris-base is not strong, but then again I have the feeling that I am partially anosmic to it. It's kind of funny because I don't really smell it consciously with my nose, I smell only a dry, woody note, a bit like cedarwood, but my brain tells me that there is something more that is making the perfume "big" and "alive". So I know that the Ambergris is there.
"Venezia" reminds me of Aftelier's "Sepia", but without the disgusting strawberry-note. "Sepia" is more complex, with more prominent woody notes, "Venezia" is simpler to my nose, but nicely blended and refined. I find "Sepia" totally misnamed as someone could expect a totally different perfume judged by the name, but the name "Venezia - Giardini Segreti" fits perfectly to Profumo's creation because it makes you really feel like sitting in a garden on a hot day and catching whiffs of fresh air from time to time when the wind is gently blowing.
All in all it is a very nice perfume for summer, and a must-try for all Jasmine and Rose lovers, especially for those who didn't like the Jasmine in "Tawaf" because it is much more tamed here. I don't know which perfume of the "Italian Series" I like more, "Milano Caffe" or "Venezia"? "MC" is much more complex to my nose, it's busy, really like sitting in a cafe with people talking and cars passing by. "Venezia" is simpler, more to the point with no distraction, truly like sitting in a garden, an oasis where you can leave everyday life behind and just relax.
18th March, 2014 (last edited: 02nd April, 2014)
Smells like an old cough candy and is gone within minutes!
A joyful and friendly, 100% natural perfume in an EDC-style. Superb quality and blended to perfection. Weak longevity is the only downside.
Very architectural. The olfactory equivalent to the Guggenheim in Bilbao.
29th April, 2013 (last edited: 09th May, 2013)
This is one of the very few mainstream/synthetic releases that I like. It's surprisingly somber for an EdC, it has a slightly sad and melancholic feeling which I really enjoy. On my search for the ultimate "dark fragrance" is this a good milestone!
27th January, 2013 (last edited: 10th March, 2013)
This perfume doesn't seem to get as much attention as the other ones from Profumo.it get which is totally unjustfied! This is a very nice and refined perfume. Imagine making the same pilgrimage like in "Mecca Balsam", not on your feet but in a Rolls-Royce! This is the yuppie-version of "Mecca Balsam"!
This is one of the the few perfumes and the only one in Profumo's line yet where I don't know what to think of! It smells to me so unusual and different that I simply don't know if I like it or not. It consists only of three ingredients: Vanilla, Tuberose and Tobacco. Judged by the three ingredints you can already imagine how it smells like, right? No, you have no idea! Try it and you will see/smell what I mean. I sincerely hope that the people of Sicily are not as schizophrenic as the perfume is!
Sorry for staining Norne's clean shirt, but I have mixed feelings about the perfume: On my skin it smells perfect, but on fabric it develops a slightly unpleasant medicinal note and after a day or so it leaves a strange and even more unpleasant potpourri-like smell on it. I have to avoid that it comes in contact with my clothes. Okay, that's not a big problem, but unfortunately Norne has weak longetivity being on my skin alone.
Chilum consists only of three ingredients: Tobacco, Mysore Sandalwood and Ginger. The quality is top-notch! I gave it a neutral rating because it's simply not my style. It smells very old-fashioned to me, not that this is a bad thing, but at the age of 30 I feel like I have to wait at least 20 years to wear it with confidence. It has this "elder man sitting with a pipe in a leather armchair"-vibe! Another thing that is a bit distracting is the Ginger: I can't help it, but combined with the beautiful Sandalwood and the musty-dusty Tobacco, Chilum reminds me of smoked ham!
17th January, 2013 (last edited: 18th February, 2013)
This is the only perfume by La Via del Profumo where I don't hesitate to give it a thumbs down-rating. This stuff is hardcore, it's just too overpowering and even brutal! Well, maybe Fidel would like it!
I really wanted to like this, but it leaves me totally cold. Judged by its name and the background story of abandonned gold cities I expected something much more woody and mysterious. "Sepia" is very feminine with a thin and high pitched jasmine-note and a headache-inducing, almost synthetic smelling strawberry-note. In the base it has a nice woody smell, but it has no chance against the top and middle notes. The only thing that I really like about this perfume is the ambergris that gives an animalic touch to it, and prevents it from getting a thumbs-down rating. All in all I find it very disappointing because it smells more like a summer-cologne for girlies and not like what its name promises!
Remember the old Bud Spencer and Terrence Hill movies? In almost every movie there is a funny but also slightly disgusting "eating-scene". Especially when they eat a whole pan of beans and bacon, it turns my stomach upside down! With "Lonestar Memories" you get the olfactory equivalent of such scene. Disgusting bacon-like smoke with an even more disgusting sweetness that could easily come from the beans. I like most of the Tauer-perfumes and I think Andy is a really nice guy, but "Lonestar memories" is simply disgusting!
In the beginning all I'm smelling is a slightly dirty, soapy and synthetic rose. After a while it starts smelling like my grandma! So you certainly understand that I don't want to smell like this! Totally overrated and absolutely not worth the buzz!
01st October, 2012 (last edited: 02nd October, 2012)
"Tawaf" is the latest and last perfume in the "Arabian Series". This perfume only consists of two accords, an oppoponax-accord (together with other resins) and a jasmine-accord (together with rose and narcissus). It may sound simple and it is, but as it's often the case with 100% natural perfumes, it smells very interesting and quite complex because of the high quality ingredients and the nice interplay between the notes. I must admit that I am not the biggest fan of jasmine - or better said I wasn't. "Tawaf" kind of converted me and has really grown on me!
After applying the first thing that I smell is jasmine, jasmine and jasmine! Top quality and full of life! After a while the rose appears and plays hide and seek with the jasmine. This interplay is what makes "Tawaf" really enchanting, I really love that! I considered myself always as a "resin-guy", I would have never thought that I will rave so much about two flowers. The narcissus supports this interplay but stays in the background. The oppoponax-accord is a very shy one, it lets the jasmine get all the attention and provides a soft and quiet base. It surprised me that the oppoponax-accord disappears almost completely after a while, I always thought resins have better staying power. When the perfume dries down it leaves a very nice subdued scent on the skin that reminds me of chocolate mixed together with something animalic. I like this part a lot and I think it is the jasmine that transformed herself from a screaming rockstar that she is in the beginning to a cultivated and sensual lady at the end, but she is still a diva because she has to have the last word after the oppoponax-accord is already a long time speechless! Longetivity is quite good for a natural perfume, on my skin it lasts in "full bloom" for about two or three hours, after that it leaves this nice subdued smell that I mentioned for hours. Longetivity on fabric is much better than on my skin. All in all I must say that this is a very safe perfume. It's far away from being so "avantgarde" like "Gringo" or "Hindu Kush", but "Tawaf" is still a very nice perfume that did the wonder to turn me into a "floral-guy"! I would classify the perfume as unisex, but if there are some guys who think this could be too much jasmine for them, Profumo.it has another fantastic product in his portfolio, the "Tawaf Custom Blending Kit". This kit contains besides a small bottle (15,5 ml) of the "Tawaf"-perfume itself, the two accords ("Jasmine" and "Oppoponax") separated in two 6 ml dropper bottles, a small funnel and vials, all packed in a nice little wooden box. With this kit you can customise the perfume according to your taste. If you want it more resinous, simply add some "Oppoponax". If you want total "jasmine-overload", add some more of the jasmine-accord. The different blendind-techniques are explained on the website profumo.it. The blending kit is really great, you can play with it for hours! This is also a very nice and fun entry in the world of perfume-making. You can't really mess it up because the scent will always smell acceptable, no matter in which ratio you blend the accords. It also gives you the rewarding feeling that you created something on your own and didn't just consume a premade product!
28th September, 2012 (last edited: 10th October, 2012)
"Hindu Kush" is one of the most aptly named perfumes I have ever come across. It smells exactly like the Hindu Kush-mountains look like: Very sparse, stony, airy and cold, with some woods underneath the mountains. I can even smell the wind blowing! There is just a little coziness in it, like sitting by a small campfire and trying to catch at least a little bit of warmth. Together with the somewhat mysterious "Mecca Balsam" is this my favourite perfume that I have sampled from the "Scents of the Soul"-line. Whereas "Mecca Balsam" is warm, uplifting and inviting, an indoor kind of smell, "Hindu Kush" is more grounded, rough and cold, an outdoor kind of smell, and I must admit that it's not always easy to wear 'cause it's so austere. Although the both perfumes are totally different, they share a certain quality that is able to put me in a meditative state of mind. Awesome stuff!
25th September, 2012 (last edited: 10th March, 2013)
This one is really nice! The combination of orange blossom and rose smells very familiar and friendly, but the oud and the saffron give a medicinal edge to it. It's also very spicy, it almost feels "hot" in the nose! Absolutely unisex and in my humble opinion better than Homage or Tribute. The combination of warm top-notes and a mysterious, almost fierce base is totally stunning!
18th February, 2012 (last edited: 27th February, 2012)