Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

Total Reviews: 2020
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Ormonde by Floris

This opening is traditional: jasmine - dominating the first minutes, and complemented by a somewhat bland rose, but soon overshadowed by the grand star of this performance - and what a performance - the oak moss. Natural, intensive, rich but crisp, full but on the harsh side, although the the harshnessIs never as grating as, for instance, in the great Gucci Nobile - Ormonde is a bit less in your face, but only a bit.

In the drydown there are variations in the development: a great and convincing fern impression Is added - how much more chypre can a scent get? The mossy mixture then takes on a transiently greener turn, with a grassy character.

The base develops a pleasant musky undertone, but until the end the oakmoss is dominantly in the foreground, fading out very slowly.

The performance is thundering: strong sillage, excellent projection and a tremendous, astronomical longevity of seventeen hours on my skin! Unbelievable.

This is a wonderful classic fougère that is made for spring, with less emphasis on the floral side but nonetheless well balanced. The oak moss is of amazing quality, one of the best I have come across for a long time. A masterpiece form Floris. 4/5
20th July, 2017
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Modern Muse by Estée Lauder

The top note is a somewhat nonspecific floral impression with a slightly orangey touch. It has some fresh-ish moments though.

The drydown develops the floral theme further. A somewhat faint honeysuckle combines with a fairly perfunctory tuberose; all this is given some depth by a pleasant jasmine note that is the dominant component at that stage of the development.

The base, with a bit more sweetness as the earlier phases but never cloying, is centred around vanilla and a woodsy undertone. An agreeable white musky impression is present and, with the vanilla, prominent towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent is quite pleasant at times, but at times outright boring. The jasmine is quite nice, but overall the whole mix never really develops on me into a convincing whole. Most of the ingredients are rather generic and anaemic on my skin. 2.5/5.
19th July, 2017
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Sensuous by Estée Lauder

The jasmine in the opening, the most predominant of the florals in the opening, is embedded in a white-floral feel. Pleasant, but it seems to be attenuated, nigh suppressed on my skin, as is a veil of fog is draped over these floral fields

The heart notes add a woodsy undertone with slightly sweet whiffs of cinnamon and vanilla, which are very restrained though.

The floral notes are nigh evaporated now, whilst the base injects an aroma of honey in the backgound.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Not bad as a spring scent, but alas it never takes off in my skin, even at the beginning that is its strongest part. Overall a bit too generic too convince. 2.75/5.
18th July, 2017
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Angéliques Sous La Pluie by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The angelica is in the opening blast indeed; terse, quite bitter, fresh, with a green touch. It lasts longer than the juniper; the latter is pleasant but nothing special indeed; this is no Baie de Genièvre. Touches of gin are present and there are moments of a very restrained booziness.

The drydown introduces the coriander, that is done pleasantly and combines with the concurrently emerging gently spicy undertone. The crisp angelica from the top notes has receded at that state.

The base adds a generally woodsy aroma, with white musks adding another angle to the final hours.

The sillage is moderate, at least initially, and soft in the second half; the projection is adequate and the longevity is seven hours on my skin.

An agreeable spring daytime creation that lives by the lovely angelica-driven initial impression. The later phases are somewhat unexciting, and hence it scores only just in the positive range. 3/5.

17th July, 2017
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Beautiful by Estée Lauder

This is a review of the vintage perfum:
The opening is a sensory explosion of an extraordinary potpourri: marigold, a pleasant rose and a delightful lily; all intensive and very rich, creamy and sweet. Soon a lovely tuberose adds added opulence and completes a gorgeous symphony of olfactory delights. This tuberose is neither too heavy nor too waxy, is gives the whose a luxuriant character.

The drydown sees a shift towards more white florals, with a creamy ylang-ylang competing with the top notes in richness, whilst an intense likely-of-the-valley aroma is the dominant heart note on my skin; it is accompanied by an orange flower that blends in very well.

Transiently fresher moment occur, contributed to by an orangey undertone as well as aldehydic components that give it a nigh-Chanel-No.5-feel at times.

The base turns woodsy, but reminiscence of the marigold, the rose and the orange flower linger on and combine with the sandalwood very harmoniously. There is a slightly powdery feel to it, especially in the second half of it’s development.

I get strong sillage, splendid projection and a sensational longevity of fifteen hours on my skin.

This is a floral beauty: a spring evening creation that is rich, opulent but also elegant at the same time. Maybe a little too sticky at times, but this is mainly at the beginning. Very much full-on, it is unashamedly floral, soft, voluptuous, luxurious, but not devoid of elegance. Indubitably one of Estée Lauder's best. 4/5.
16th July, 2017
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Azurée Soleil Eau Fraiche Skinscent by Estée Lauder

The bergamot and the orange blossom combine with tangerine to a somewhat subduedly fresh start. No a super-bright in-your-face freshness, more like a breeze that a fresh blast. Nice.

The drydown turns distinctly floral, with a well-made magnolia the predominant impression on my skin; a vivid and fragrantly delightful magnolia that is quite bright. Jasmine is in the backgound, as is a herbal backdrop of myrrhe, but the magnolia is in the centre of attention.

The base is quite different, as the floral element has receded and is replaced by a woodsy impression, with subdued notes of coconut and whiffs of caramel giving a rounded restrainedly sweet character to this phase of the development of this fragrance. These remain until the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and a very impressive twelve hours of longevity; the later stages, however, are very close to my skin.

A lovely summer scent when it is not too hot, it would also suit warmer spring days as a day scent. It is well blended and not too generic. Discreetly summery it is. 3.25/5.
15th July, 2017
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Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder

Lilac is the main component of the opening blast in my nose, a slightly terse-sweet lovely lilac that is soon followed by the tuberose. And what a great tuberose that is! A touch sweet only, with minimal waxiness, intense but not without elegance, and with a luxuriating richness reminiscent of the original vintage formulation of Fracas.

In the drydown the other part of the titular olfactory twin name, the gardenia, emerges: rich, typical and without any unduly synthetic distractions. Jasmine is present in the backgound, as are other transient white floral impressions enmeshed with gently woodsy undertones.

The tuberose persists into the base, seconded by a sweeter carnation and, towards the end, by a subtle tonka coda.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an amazing fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A truly wonderful floral spring creation a very high standard, well blended without losing too much structure, never intrusively sweet, and composed of high-quality ingredients. A floral delight. 4/5.
14th July, 2017
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Florentine Iris by Ermenegildo Zegna

A nice iris note start it off, simple but well executed and freshens up a basic bergamot is the background.

The drydown adds more floral underpinnings,with a violet that is characterised by a nonspecific woodsy undercurrent. Jasmine is another important contributor to this potpourri. Interestingly, whilst this is very much a soft and floral mix, is is not really particularly sweet on my skin.

The base is comparatively dull: the floral components gradually recede, and a very synthetic and generic white musk is added to the nonspecific woodsiness - a bit of a letdown this later stage surely is.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent sports a very agreeable iris-centred floral core, with the later stages unfortunately slipping in their overall development due to their generic-synthetic nature. Overall just hanging in there to achieve a - just - positive score owing to its first half. 3/5
13th July, 2017
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Indonesian Oud by Ermenegildo Zegna

Right from the start the oud leaps at me; not in an intrusive or unpleasant manner but quite civil indeed. This oud is in itself not particularly remarkable; it is eminently synthetic and resembles many of the attenuated and smoothed-over oud impressions that pullulate on the fragrance shelves of department stores these days.

The other core component of the composition is a pleasant, if somewhat generic, rose note. Not too dark and not bright either, it is a pleasant middle-of-the-road addition to the oud, blending in nicely.

A smooth patchouli is added on in the drydown too, and with a somewhat perfunctory bergamot lurking in the background the general impression is not lacking a touch of a brightish undertone, which is, at times, underpinned by hints of a generic woodsiness towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and an excellent eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

Another pleasant but unexciting spring scent following the crowd of rose-oud scents in the current oud tsunami. Only the decent performance tilts it into the positive realm by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
11th July, 2017
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Zegna Uomo by Ermenegildo Zegna

The initial phase is centered around a fresh bergamot notion that is quite pleasant and well executed. Quite vivid and uplifting.

Unfortunately, the later phases are less convincing. There is a violet that reeks of laboratory-synthetic character. The nonspecific wood background that is added towards the end is fairly dull.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity in my skin.

This spring scent is characterised by an agreeable start, which is followed by an exceedingly synthetic and ultra-generic rest. Overall the term mediocrity comes to mind; a safe and mediocre composition. 2.75/5.
10th July, 2017
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Javanese Patchouli by Ermenegildo Zegna

On my skin, the opening heralds the patchouli right from the beginning - at least the name is not making any false promises here. The patchouli is soft and devoid if any harshness- this is no Purple Patchouli.

Soon a non-specific woodsy undertone emerges, accompanied by a soft white pepper, which is very mild and has a sweetish character; the latter is morphing into a vanilla note with a sweetness that remains until the end. During the last hour is takes on a pleasantly campherous aroma, with the wood turning into a cedar impression towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours in longevity on my skin. 3.25/5.

A nice autumnal creation, this is a domesticated patchouli without rough edges, a bit monochrome at times but very well blended. 3.25/5.
09th July, 2017
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Sicilian Mandarin by Ermenegildo Zegna

The opening is fresh, bright and based on a mandarin-orange core note, which is paired with a bergamot impression; the latter is of good quality and quite convincing. The top notes create a typical citrus-centred Cologne-type character.

Throughout the drydown this composition is adding some petitgrain, which turns a touch tangy and bitter, but without reaching the bitterness of the typical bigarrade fragrances. Later on, a hint of a slightly harsh saltiness develops that attempts to recreate impressions of ambergris with a mossy undertone.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity, with the latter half very close to my skin.

The initial phase in the development of this distinctly summery creation is composed of good-quality delightful ingredients. Alas, later on the pseudo-ambergris/mossy impression is overly synthetic and not particularly convincing. Nonetheless, the first half in itself, if frequently applied, is worth a - albeit achieved very narrowly - positive score, 3/5.
08th July, 2017
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Haitian Vetiver by Ermenegildo Zegna

This is a faux vetiver, composed to create a vetiver-like impression, mainly due to the combination of bergamot and neroli. The result is bright, on the light side and uplifting.

After some time a woody component, based on orris, develops and pairs with herbal undercurrents. This seems to mimic the woodsy side of the "vetiver."

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

In spite of being a touch contrived conceptually and in the name, this summery sent is well executed and blended. A bit monochrome at times, but overall convincing and invigorating. 3.25/5.
07th July, 2017
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Myths Woman by Amouage

The florals in the opening are very evidently what it is all about in the top notes, with a pleasant narcissus exuding floral beauty, with a lilac counterpoint that veers towards the somber and slightly vegetal realm. Humid earth, a well-integrated galbanum, compost and herbal moments present themselves fleetingly at this stage. Carnation and whiffs of geraniums further strengthen the floral tones, but transforming the niceness of the blossoms into a darker and shadowy mix.

Then things get grittier, with the rather attenuated harshness of ambergris and a dark patchouli leads to the base, where a somewhat flat mossy undercurrent combines with a soft leather impression. A dark musky sideline combines with the ambergris to form a dark and morbid counterpoint to the pretty floral origins.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

An interesting autumnal creation, with notions of contradiction, beauty and decay, complex but well blended, yet losing structure at times. Overall a positive experience. 3.25/5.
05th July, 2017
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Peruvian Ambrette by Ermenegildo Zegna

Ambrette - a pleasant amber blast that is well executed greets me right from the start. A touch of brightness is accentuated by the lack of any dark or sharp edges in this opening phase.

The drydown introduces the other core component in the development of this creation: a lovely iris, quite typical and fairly rich in texture, very clean.

The base introduces cashmeran tones that are enriched by the ambery core that remained from the top notes, and with the iris gradually retreating the woodsy-ambery are the main accompaniments to the cashmeran in the base.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this rather simple autumnal scent is not hiding a considerable use of synthetic notes, they are done not too badly, and they are very smoothly blended. Together with the very good performance this is one of the better products of this house. 3.25/5.
04th July, 2017
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Sunshine Man by Amouage

A nice, bright orangey opening that has a touch of a boozy undertone on my skin. Fresh bergamot in the drydown is enriched by a pleasant lavender and a floral core, which leads to a vanilla base at a later stage.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity amounts to six hours.

Summery, especially in the first half, and crafted well enough to please. 3.25/5.
01st July, 2017
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Anni Venti by Laura Tonatto

The opening is characterised by a floral dominance, with jasmine and rose in the foreground, brightened up by a touch of neroli that is accompanied by a restrained aldehydic halo. The drydown is characterised by whiffs of violet, and the floral notes are not too overbearingly sweet.

Heading towards the later stages of the development, here a rich oriental feel becomes dominant, with incense combining with a good lashing of benzoin. Richer and and sweeter now, but on my skin never seriously cloying.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity seven hours.

A nice autumnal creation, combining floral with oriental moments that, at times, cannot avoid a certain generic nature, but in some aspects compliments each other nicely. 3.25/5.
26th June, 2017
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Lilac Love by Amouage

A floral heliotrope with jasmine and good parts of gardenia and other white florals; later on a somewhat flat iris arises too. The drydown is a vanilla chocolate dyad, not dissimilar to molten ice cream but, alas, quite generic, as is the soft patchouli towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent that is not bad, but distinctly unexciting. 2.5/5.
22nd June, 2017
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Acqua di Bergamotto by Ermenegildo Zegna

The opening blast displays an equal contribution of the lovely bergamot and a very nice vetiver. The latter is fresh and with minimally woodsy undertones, and lacks any significant earthiness.

Soon a herbal rosemary component arises, and merges with the opening notes to a delightful, fresh and invigorating mix. A bright neroli with minimal sweetness is added, with whiffs of hesperidic touches fleetingly present.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Comparing this cheerful summer scent to the other summery bergamot-based creation of this house, i.e. Italian Bergamot, the latter has more lemony characteristics on me. Whilst Acqua di Bergamotto features rosemary instead of more traditional ingredients like clary sage, it is more in the line of the traditional Eau de Cologne, and in the tradition of 4711 and Farina's Kölnisch Wasser. The juxtaposition of a more traditional with a more citrus-influenced Cologne is done by other houses; Penhaligon's Extract of Limes vs. its Eau de Cologne comes to mind.

A straightforward Cologne then this one is, crafted well, and a great delight. The performance is quite respectable for a scent of its genre. 3.75/5.
21st June, 2017
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Italian Bergamot by Ermenegildo Zegna

Yes, bergamot is in the centre of the opening blast. With touches of lemon on top of the top notes, it is bright, summery and refreshing.

The drydown sees neroli and, a but later, a pleasant vetiver added on, with the latter also being on the bright-and-light side; it lacks any earthiness or tanginess.

After the first hours all the top notes have receded, and I am left with a mix of herbal notes on the base of a nonspecific woodsiness.

I get moderate sillage initially that softens dramatically after the first hour, good projection intially and a total longevity of three hours in my skin.

This scent for hot weather is characterised by a very nice realisation of the core bergamot impression, but is characterised by somewhat less convincing heart notes and a dull base. The performance is poor, but when one conceptualises this product as a take on the tradition of the light and refreshing Eau de Cologne, this deficit in performance is not unexpected and cannot be held against it; Colognes are designed to be re-applied frequently through a hot day.

Nothing exciting but crafted satisfactorily; the bergamot note is of a decent make. 3.25/5.
20th June, 2017
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Zegna Intenso by Ermenegildo Zegna

Whilst there is quite a bit of citrus freshness in the opening blast, after a first twenty minutes it is overwhelmed by a mixture of white musks with a gradually strengthening vanilla undertone, with the latter being the major contributor to the sweetness of this composition. This sweetness is never to heavy, intrusive or cloying.

With time spicy, slightly peppery undertones are evident, but never harsh or heavy. Towards the second half of the development of this creation, cardamom adds an exotic feeling, but I never get any real incense quality here.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This wintery scent is an interesting attempt to contrast brighter citrus notes with more oriental-deeper tones, and is a concept of some interest. The main problems is that the ingredients are too generic and synthetic; the latter to the extent of boredom at times. 2.75/5 overall.

Intenso - yes.
Bellissimo - no.
19th June, 2017
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L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening is lovely: a citrus whiff with underlying heliotrope aromas, with a slightly sweet almond impression. Later on there is a floral touch added on, mainly iris with a white floral bend.

The heliotropes recede with time, and the almond takes on a hint of anis and marzipan - here is a possible connection with wintery themes. At times there is a honey component evident.

The last couple of hours are on the dull side, based in very mundane white musks, but the almond still breaks though from time to time.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

The first parts are pleasant and agreeable, whilst the later section a very generic and too boringly synthetic. Overall just a positive score. 3/5.
18th June, 2017
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Lys Méditerranée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The first floral hit is a lily in full bloom. Touches tiger lily, not sweet initially, very nice.

After this first hour or so, I get more of a sweeter note that is quite characteristic of muguet, and for quite a while the muguet really defines this composition. Later in the drydown, orange blossom is added as well as whiffs of citrus and nigh-ozonic undertones, but for most of the time the muguet rules.

The base combines nonspecific woodsy hints with white musks and a very restrained tonka - but the muguet stills shines through on my skin until the very end.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity amounts to ten hours, albeit very close to my skin for the last hour.

This spring scent, unashamedly a floral fest, is well-executed and composed of ingredients that are of a very good quality overall. At times the standard drops and inferior synthetics are evident, but that is only for smaller parts of the development of this product. 3.5/5.
16th June, 2017
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Cologne Bigarade by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The bitter orange hits me right from the first moment on, and it is very well executed. Very tangy, bitter and quite fresh. It is orangey and hence a bit darker than those bigarade impression found in the ultra bright and zesty lemon-based bigarrades like Creed's brilliant benchmark Citrus Bigarrade. The latter somewhat toned down and layered with Roger & Gallet's Bois d'Orange would come closer to this Cologne Bigarade.

Additional freshness is provided by a very judiciously applied set of aldehydes that blend in smoothly with the citrus core.

After the first half hour the orange zest is gone, a woody background is revealed. Towards the end whiffs of the orange return transiently, paired with a minimally spicy undertone - the latter is very discrete and well-integrated into the whole blend, and much weaker than in, for instance, Creed's Orange Spice.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and a longevity of about four hours on my skin - not a great performance but very good for a summery fresh daytime citrus Cologne. 3.5/5.
15th June, 2017
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The Night by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The oud is dominating the first hours, and what a fine oud it is! Typical is its aroma, with a smoothly civety undertone so typical for agarwood, with its tanginess and the notion of dried hay - this oud is beautifully executed out of the natural product.

The rose comes to the fore very slowly; it is a fine, slightly somber rose that blends in seamlessly with the oud. One thing is clear though: the oud is clearly the dominant note here, and the rose plays an accompanying role like the orchestra in a violin concerto- the oud is the soloist.

Towards the end an ambery impression develops in the background, and forms a nice backgound feature.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

One thing must be emphasised: the above description of this wintery scent is based on deliberately sparing application. This way it is a delightfully balanced creation that is never intrusive and miles away from the gazillions of chemical-laboratory-harsh and intrusive pseudo-ouds that have flooded the market lately. Sure, this scent can be amplified by a more lavish and generous application, but with more limited amounts the wonderful elegance is most evident.

The quality of these natural ouds and the rose is superb. This is an oud-centric creation that is quite simple, but like a simple dish perfectly executed is a delight to be savoured, so does this comparatively straightforward olfactory dish deserve a high mark: 4/5.
13th June, 2017
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En Passant by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A gently freshish opening blast greets me - with a green-floral opening accord that is very pleasant. The green note is a leafy tone, quite bright, whilst the floral side, which lasts way into the heart notes, is a mix of violet with a restrained undercurrent of white florals, mainly touches of muguet.

Further down the track this is mixed with a yeasty note, as if sniffing a wine barrel whose content is undergoing fermentation. There is a fruity undertone, but on me this is never really a sweet composition. This overall impressions lasts until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

Lovely in spring, this scent is not very complex and at times a bit thin, but it is made of good-quality ingredients with some creative twists. 3.25/5.
31st May, 2017
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Le Parfum de Thérèse by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The opening starts with a fruity blast, a melon - more watermelon than cantaloupe on my skin, quite freshish, with the latter being re-enforced by a gently orangey undercurrent. Soon a green side note develops, based on a fresh jasmine impression that balances out the fruitiness, which in any way is never really heavily sweet on me.

The drydown sees the development of a very restrained white-pepper background, which, together with the - at times ozonic - tangy aroma of unripe plums counteracts the fruitiness of the top notes beautifully. The further additions in the heart notes are florals: a somewhat unexciting rose and a pleasant violet with greenish flavours; the latter is followed on by a slightly earthy getter impression that leads into the later phases of the development of the olfactory story.

The base is full of further interesting twists, namely a soft leather with fresh, night minty aftertastes, as if the fruitiness is meeting touches of crispy white musk notes.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and ten hours of longevity.

This spring composition is characterised by the skillful balancing of the fruity-floral spectrum, with the sweetness and the ozonic tanginess in perfect harmony. The main drawback is that at times the price paid is a bit of a loss of structure, leading to phases when the components are more blurred than interwoven with one another, but this does not detract form the very positive overall impression. 3.5/5.
30th May, 2017
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Eau de Magnolia by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A touch of bergamot adds a touch of brightness, but this is a product whose name doors not belie is substance and content: the Magnolia is it. A typical, rich, fragrant magnolia, conjuring up childhood memories of the magnolia tree outside the window and its vibrant aroma in times of its blossoming.

On my skin the magnolia is persistently dominating the scene. There are some variations over time, touches of vetiver and some woodsy undercurrents towards the end, but always the Magnolia rules. Even in its dying moments the big M is ever-present.

I am getting moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin, albeit fluctuating in intensity over the last hours.

Floral, magnolia splendor galore. At times a bit monochromatic but never intrusive or very sweet. Well crafted and made of good-quality ingredients. A paradigmatic magnolia creation. 3.5/5.
29th May, 2017
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Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Brightened up with a touch of bergamot, from the word "go" the star in the performance greets me: a beautiful tuberose, bright but intensive, rich but elegant, floral but not too sweet. This beauty hardly displays any waxiness. One of the most convincing tuberoses I have come across for a while.

The drydown gains added depth and a slightly creamy character with the addition of nice ylang-ylang undertone, soon a white floral mix gains prominence, with a jasmine that at times is bearing gently woodsy characteristics. It is, however, a lovely orange blossom that moves into foreground, but always combined with the starring tuberose, which remains prominent from beginning to the end, like an idée fixe in a work by Berlioz.

This remains the core blend in the base, with some perfunctory white musks adding - not very much noteworthy.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

A delicious evening spring scent on account of supreme and brilliant tuberose and the very nice orange blossom - the rest is mere accompaniment only. 3.75/5.
28th May, 2017
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Emerald Dream by Estée Lauder

After a brief citrus-fruity-harsh chemical attack (contravening various international conventions) in the opening blast, I was fearing the worst. No need to worry though; it soon settled down to a pleasant and fresh grass-green impression, with touches of very fresh basil underneath the heath. Touches of a peach aroma were intermittently detectable in the background. Parts of the top notes reminded me of Geoffrey Beene's Bowling Green, just lacking the vibrancy of Beene's verdant creation.

In the drydown floral pieces were added to the olfactory mosaic: initially a fairly woodsy violet impression, then mimosa, whiffs of geranium, and a pleasant cyclamen to maintain a good balance.

The base turns increasingly woodsier, with the cypress gradually overwhelmed by the Kamani and whiffs of sandal; it is as if a hint of white blossoms is admixed. Delightful, and towards the end the fruitiness from the top notes as well as the green parts of the initial phase return to combine with the rest to a green-woodsy and slowly fading apotheosis. Memories of the Emerald Isle?

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity a superb twelve hours on my skin.

Apart from the first seconds, this is a a fresh daytime spring creation with a green-woodsy centre, executed very well and performing excellently. 3.5/5.
27th May, 2017