Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2130
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Strawberry Ice by Demeter Fragrance Library

This smells indeed like strawberry, or, to be more precise, like strawberry ice cream. Or like a strawberry sundae.

The is an added undertone of vanilla, which becomes a dominant force in the fading base moments, but otherwise this is quite anlinear scent without any surprises.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent for cooler summer days is overly synthetic, but so is strawberry ice cream. After all, the average mass-production ice cream maker works more with flavours than with freshly squeezed fruit juices. Given this fact it is quite a realistic depiction of the ice cream in question. 3/5.
22nd November, 2017
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Sunshine by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is essentially a vanilla scent; a vanilla ice cream scent that is.

Initially freshened up by a touch of lemon, it is a rather linear creation, except for touches of a light powderiness being present towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a spring creation that it quite synthetic and generic. Not bad, but nothing special. 2.5/5.
21st November, 2017
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Thunderstorm by Demeter Fragrance Library

The atmosphere after rainfall or storm has inspired over the years; Après l’Ondée is maybe the most famous one.

Here the focus is on the earth and a woods after the event: earthy, green and in the shade; the ground afterwards. The atmosphere after the rain is represented by a rather synthetic-ozonic impression. After the first hour a dull chemical aftermath remains.

Of note is the lack of any floral components in this composition. The dark forest ground it is, without and friendly blossoms. This is not a sweet fragrance.

I get moderate sillage, good projection - for the first hour - and a total longevity of four hours.

A bit too synthetic overall, the first part is executed well and realistic enough to raise one’s interest. The rest is silence. 2.75/5.
20th November, 2017
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Poison Ivy by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is a nice way of an olfactory depiction of poison ivy. Quite green in a darker and shaded way, leafy and later on with the woodsy and earthy undertones of the stems.

It is a bit sweeter than what I expected, and with time the woodsy side becomes more dominant.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Initially quite convincing, it soon becomes a tad too generic and synthetic. Not bad though. 2.75/5.
19th November, 2017
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Tomato by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is tomato indeed: tomato leaves, stems, the plant. Fresh and green initially, then richer and a touch less fresh, with an undertone of dried grass.

The drydown reveals a fruity touch, whiffs of peachy impressions than beans in with a somewhat generic floral impression. This all is on top of the dominant features of the tomato truss.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent is quite original and in its core well executed. These might not be fried green tomatoes, but the whole composition is not without a surprise. 3.5/5.
18th November, 2017
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Pure Soap by Demeter Fragrance Library

The name is apt: it is indeed a clean soapy impression that this creation exudes: laundry-style clean.

In the early stages an airy peach accord is present. Later on whiffs of chemical floral notes, mainly iris and oleander, come and go. White musks also greet me in the later phase, and towards the end a fresh and contemporary light powderiness makes an appearance.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant as a concept and in execution, the drawbacks are just too evident: this is as generic and as synthetic as it gets. And unexciting too. 2.5/5.
17th November, 2017
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Zombie for Him by Demeter Fragrance Library

The aroma of wet soil in the forest after the rain - that is what hits my most from the start. It is very well executed and convincing.

In the drydown the impression of mushroom, mildew and wet hay is added, playing with the wet soil motif and complementing it very nicely.

The base gradually develops a themes of soft and gentle mossy notes, a moss that is quite different form the usual oak moss one might expect here. Towards the end a pleasant woodsy undertone grows in strength and eventually becomes the dominant force in the olfactory symphony.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This is an autumnal beauty: the olfactory image of the forest grounds after the rain. Maybe a bit synthetic, but original and very well conceptualised and crafted. It performs very well too. Great for gardening or nature trips. 3.75/5.
16th November, 2017
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Russian Leather by Demeter Fragrance Library

A tangy opening blast greets me at the start, which is soon morphing into spicy mix.

The drydown continues the theme, and at times the aroma of new suede can be detected, but this has very little to do with genuine Russian Leather - see Chanel, Creed, Santa Maria Novella, Farina etc. This has no birch tar or sandal in it. A somewhat agreeable spice market mix, with touches of camphor and hints of sharpness at times.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a good ten hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal spice mix, very synthetic, with little leather and no Russian leather. 2.75/5.
15th November, 2017
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Vanilla Bark by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is on the bright side, with bergamot brightening up what is a restrained vanilla opening. He drydown develops a pleasant vetiver, a slim vetiver without much earthiness in it. Additional cinnamon adds depth.

Towards the base, somewhat woodsy components are added, together with a very soft patchouli impression.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A restrained autumn vanilla scent that is characterised by a refreshing lack of intrusively synthetic components. Overall a bit anaemic, it is pleasant but not great. 2.75/5.
14th November, 2017
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Vanilla Ice Cream by Demeter Fragrance Library

For the first moments the vanilla ice cream is depicted olfactorically very well. From then on this is a synthetic mélange of sweetness, caramel/molasses and cookies. It is at times quite good, but most of the time not convincing in its generic sweetness.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a tremendous thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent, not bad but overall nothing great. 2.75/5.
13th November, 2017
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Play-Doh by Demeter Fragrance Library

Pretty much a play-doh-type impression, although there are differences: it is sweeter, and has more almond in it. At times, the earthy-clay undertone is quite evident, but at times it is more in the background. Vanilla and fruity components arise in the second half.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

Fun as a concept, good in autumn but too strong in its synthetic character. 2.75/5.
12th November, 2017
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Oud by Demeter Fragrance Library

The initial phase is characterised by somewhat half-hearted attempt to create a sweet-ish oud-y impression, but in the drydown this is overtaken by a rather nonspecific woodsy note.

In the drydown a slightly dark fruity aroma evolves, with elements of overripe pear, pineapple and candies apples present at times.

Whiffs of caramel are added throughout some parts of the base, but it is never cloyingly sweet.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent that is purporting to be oud-centred, but is in fact an aromatic-wood composition with a musty undertone in the second half. That smells like oud, but in the Dutch meaning of the word. 2.5/5.
11th November, 2017
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Pistachio Ice Cream by Demeter Fragrance Library

Now this is pistachio ice cream! A rich creamy and intensive pistachio ice cream flavour, very well done.

This flavour continues way into the drydown, but later fruity tones evolve: a blend of sweet pineapple, over-ripe pear and ripe candied apples.

In the base a biscuit impression is present, at times flanked by cinnamon and caramel undertones. This biscuit note remains until the end, like the cone that remains after the ice cream is gone.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin, with the last hours domineered by the above mentioned biscuit aroma.

A lovely spring scent that is a bit linear, but well crafted and captures the title very convincingly. 3.5/5.
10th November, 2017
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Moonbeam by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening this mixing jasmine with a fruity impression; the latter contains pineapple with whiffs of a peachy sidekick. Not bad.

The drydown introduces a rather generic floral component, with the fruitiness retreating very gradually. An amber note appears, and I get a bit of a caramel undertone at times. In general, this composition is not particularly sweet.

The base adds a woodsy note, and together with the amber dominates the final stages.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection, and six hours of longevity on me, with the last hours being very close to my skin.

This spring scent is not bad, but it is rather generic overall. 2.75/5.
09th November, 2017
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Lotus Flower by Demeter Fragrance Library

This product is evidently designed as a monofloral lotus creation. Form the beginning, after an opening blast that is slightly too chemical, the lotus notes set in, grow in the drydown and then wane towards the end.

Whilst there are some nuances traceable, like whiffs of woodsiness at times, the development is somewhat limited overall.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent for the aficionado of lotus or white floral compositions, but otherwise somewhat unexciting. 2.5/5.
08th November, 2017
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Pure White Cologne / Original Cologne by Creed

The opening blast is a beautiful mix of citrus - lemon, grapefruit and whiffs of mandarin - with a gently refreshing dyad of petitgrain and bergamot leading into the drydown.

A fruity component of rope per is added in the heart notes, with neroli keeping up the fresh end. This neroli is quite linear and lacks any earthiness or woodsy characteristics.

The base is quite restrained but interesting, with white musks and whiffs of the typical Creed ambergris impression being fattened up a bit by the rice powder aroma; the latter is consisting more of a rice vapour-like nature.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and - for a cologne very impressive - seven hours of longevity on my skin with liberal application; the base notes being very close to my skin. I have tried this repeatedly over time, including under the initial label of “Original Cologne”, and it has never disappointed.

This is a lovely and very elegant summer cologne, restrained and subtle in its nuances. It is not a direct refreshing blast à la 4711, but is holds its own besides Chanel’s Eau de Cologne and Dior’s Cologne Blanche. In my case frequent reapplication is needed to last throughout the day.
3.5/5.
07th November, 2017
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White Amber by Creed

The opening is a pleasant mix of ambroxan and a slightly peachy accord. It is bright and positive, and further into the drydown I get a discreet benzoin undertone. Pleasant.

The drydown is initially dominated by a pleasant jasmine, a light jasmin without any woodsy or leafy character. Later on, a very shy sandal note is evident, with a slightly aquatic sideline present at times.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and a longevity of two hours on my skin.

On the one hand, this is a nice, subdued and elegant spring creation with some ingredients of high quality. On the other hand, some ingredients are quite good but not really exceptional, and also a bit anaemic at times. Additionally, the performance is nothing to write home about. In total, it is very agreeable but lacks the quality that truly convinces. 2.75/5.
06th November, 2017
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Tiffany & Co by Tiffany

An orangey citrus opening is followed by a sweetish iris on a muguet-peony backgound. The second phase is dominated by a mix of white musks with a soft and somewhat bland patchouli.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant, not very original, synthetic - very middle-of-the-road. 2.5/5.
05th November, 2017
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Narciso Poudrée by Narciso Rodriguez

Not a bad start with an agreeable rose and touches of jasmine and violet. The drydown is centred around white musks, which have a bright and contemporary powdery character.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant but very synthetic and at times quite generic. 2.75/5.
05th November, 2017
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Holy Water by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is an original concept, although the Hoky Water in different churches may smell differently.

There is a dusty woodsiness initially, that is bright and has a fruity undertone. There is not much time for development.

I get weak sillage, adequate projection and two hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice idea, but mediocre implementation. 2.5/5.
05th November, 2017
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Luciano Soprani Donna by Luciano Soprani

The opening blast is characterised by a fruity mix, with blackcurrent mixing with and tangerine-centered citrus; all this is freshened up by a background of bergamot. Nicely done!

The drydown adds a rose impression that is of some depth and not very sweet; additionally I get a pkeasant peony and, at times, whiffs of lily-of-the-valley in the backgound. This switch from fruity-citric in the top notes to the floral stage occurs gradually and seamlessly.

The base adds a woodsy undertone, with added vanilla giving further depth and a touch of sweetness - although in general this composition's sweetness is never cloying or heavy.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, elegant but never very bright or refreshing. From the heart notes on I get a fine accompanying powderiness that is discreet and adds to the impression of mature elegance that pervades this creation. The quality of the ingredients is very good, and whilst this is not exactly an explosion of creativity, it ends up being a well-crafted and well-blended Eau de Parfum. 3.25/5.
27th October, 2017
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Halloween in New Orleans by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab

The composition emanates the scent of the Mississippi at night, initially with the aroma of sweetish bush leaves in the air. Not without an evocative quality.

The development continues with by adding in olive and herbal mossy tones, with the latter being dominant in the drydown.

The base is less interesting and much closer to my skin, with he main added note being that of a tonka impression, which is, however, never overwhelming or cloying.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity about six hours.

Overall the concept is quite original, but the implementation is all right but nothing extraordinary. Nice but nothing too special. 2.75/5
24th October, 2017
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Un Air de Bretagne by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The opening is laden with neroli, but the true nature of this product soon emerges: this is a maritime creation. On me it is not a loud and intensive mix, but more a discrete and quieter affair, more discreet and hidden tab loud and roaring. Interestingly, is is not very crisp and refreshing, but has a very restrainedly sweetish undertone at times.

A few nuances develop; hints of algae and whiffs of driftwood, and a rather synthetic attempt of ambergris cone and go.

On me the performance is not exciting: soft sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this summery maritime scent is more of a quiet one, it is not without it merit in this genre. Overall, however, is lacks the richness, texture and development that would make it an impressive creation. Still, pleasant and agreeable. 2.75/5.
24th October, 2017
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Bucoliques de Provence by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The strong opening blast is lavender-centric; an intense, herbal and earthy lavender of bucolic sensuality and texture indeed. In the drydown iris is added, but the other core component of the heart notes is an interesting leather impression, not very new, like a nicely aged leather of well-worn handbag. I do not get a separate base note phase of note.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity seven hours on my skin after lavish application.

A lovely scent for lavender lovers, not particularly creative but crafted solidly. 3.25/5
24th October, 2017
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Byzance by Rochas

Review of the EdP from a bottle purchased about 25 years ago:
The opening blast is delicious: an orangey opening blast that is laden with aldehydes, but that is very soon pleasantly complimented by an emerging muguet of impressive quality.

In the drydown the metamorphosis to a pure floral composition is complete: jasmine and a somewhat faint rose are detected, but it is especially the dyad of tuberose and, more prominently, a rich ylang-ylang that is the centre piece of the heart notes. The ylang-ylang mixes with the muguet very nicely, and the sweetness resulting from this floral merger is never too intense or cloying.

In the base I mainly get added vanilla with white musks and a nonspecific woodsy undertone.

The sillage is soft, the projection very good and the longevity seven hours on my skin.

A lovely blend for cooler spring days, that is characterised by the presence of a pleasant powdery undercurrent, which give the while and elegant and mature touch. The quality if the ingredients is very good, and whilst the performance is not exact stellar and the base is rather nondescript and the least exciting part, overall it is quite an agreeable and well-crafted scent. 3.25/5.
24th October, 2017
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Graham Cracker by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening phase expresses the cracker's aroma very nicely, with the wheat-based aroma being achieved quite convincingly and is blending in well with the cinnamon, which is the other core note.

Further into the drydown vanilla rises as the overall impression becomes sweeter, and a honeyed undertone is added on gradually. The wheat-notes becomes less prominent with time; and towards the end I mainly get the vanilla-honey duo, which is fading away very slowly.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this wintery scent is probably a bit sweeter than the original Graham cracker towards the end, initially it hits the spot quite well, and the performance is very good. Quite artificial-synthetic but tolerably so. 3/5.
21st October, 2017
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Hot Toddy by Demeter Fragrance Library

From the first monents of the opening blast on this is quite a good rendering of a Hot Toddy cocktail. The boozy rum note is quite nicely done, as the is the cinnamon as a matter of fact. The cinnamon blends in nicely with the booziness, and at times a glimpse of lemony freshness is also present.

Further into the drydown, a spicy undertone emerges that takes on characteristics of nutmeg at times. Otherwise the development does not go much further on me, and this creation's glowing warmth is fading out very slowly at the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant winter warmer, quite synthetic but as an attempt to create an olfactory equivalent to the drink this concept is crafted well. Combined with the excellent performance a positive score is warranted. 3.25/5
20th October, 2017
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Gin & Tonic by Demeter Fragrance Library

Yes, in the opening blast there is a gin-and-tonic impression quite evident. As G+T goes, is is not very exciting; more the aroma of the rather thin, old and stale Genever, but the tonic has a touch of fizz - fizzed out it is though after about an hour.

I get about an hour of a nonspecific chemical cocktail afterwards, a concoction worthy of a spill on the laboratory floor the day after. The total longevity of two hours is not exactly impressive. The sillage is weak and the projection just adequate.

A him spring scent of a certain pallor and abysmal performance. Not bad but, not much more either. 2.25/5.

19th October, 2017
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Green Tea by Demeter Fragrance Library

In the first moments I am hit with a slightly sharp ozonic blast that is not necessarily a pleasant one. After a while, when the biochemical blast settles, gradually the green tea emerges. Initially it is very faint, develops overtime into a recognisable and at times pleasant free tea impression, with a gentle honey undertone and whiffs of mild spiciness.

After a couple of hours this dies down and evaporates, but towards the end it is resurrected and appears once more. On my skin the green tea notes is very nice and now expresses a truly convincing green tea aroma for about an hour, albeit close to my skin - then it is over and gone.

I get weak sillage, just adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

The eventual green tea note in this spring scent might be worth waiting for, but overall this weakly performing creation needs more to fully convince. 2.5/5.

18th October, 2017
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Zahra by Swiss Arabian Perfumery

The opening notes are fruity: mainly a lovely orange, not really very sweet, with undertones of lychee and berries also present at times.

The drydown gradually turns is to floral mix, with muguet and jasmine in the foreground, but the initial fruitiness lingers well into the heart notes. Whiffs of a faint rose aroma come and go.

He base takes on a slightly honeyed character, which over time morphs into a pleasant vanilla impression. Touches of saffron arise, as does a woodsy background that is comparably nonspecific.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a splendid eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant scent for warmer spring or for cooler summer days, it is well-blended of ingredients of very good quality. Not super-creative, but crafted very well. 3.25/5.
17th October, 2017