Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2382
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Royal Eagle Sport by Stefano Ricci

An orangey opening with an aroma of a ripe grapefruit gives the opening a fresh and bright character. This is enriched by a jasmine note; a floral popular in the creations of this Florentine House.

The base adds a green tea note, with a herbal undertone - think sage and basil. This dominates until the base adds a rather nonspecific woodsy impression, which is combined with a coating of white musks.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring composition with nice opening and heart notes, although not exactly breathtakingly creative. The middle stage, and the base especially, does not do it a favour with its synthetic and generic character. Overall it remains quite middle-of-the-road. 2.75/5.
19th March, 2019
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Royal Eagle Gold by Stefano Ricci

Bergamot and anise are the main players in the opening phase, underlined with an aniseed component. This is quite pleasant.
The drydown adds a jasmine that is more on the green than on the flowery side, whilst he base adds a vanilla impression that is beefed up by a soft and bright patchouli. More towards the end I get white musks, who, together with the vanilla, dominate the final stages of the development.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent with an opening that is a bit bland quite pleasant. Unfortunately, the later phases, especially the base, are too generic to convince, and the overall impression is that if mediocrity. 2.75/5.
18th March, 2019
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Royal Eagle Silver by Stefano Ricci

Citrus meets vegetals in the opening blast: bergamot and touches of lemon mix with fennel and sage. Unusual but realised well.

The drydown includes lavender - quite a bit - with coriander added in. Towards the base a nonspecific woodsiness develops, together with a soft and quite restrained patchouli.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This interesting composition far warmer autumn days combines elements of a classic chypre - bergamot, sage - with other notes of good quality that are not frequently found together. The performance is not sensational, and the base is somewhat generic at times, but overall it is crafted well. 3/25/5.
17th March, 2019
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Gothic III by Loree Rodkin

An opening blast greets me that is expressing a lovely amber impression, which is enhanced by a well-balanced booziness. Soon a pleasant undertone evolves that I can best describe as a bundle of hay in the autumn sun - and this blends in beautifully.

In the drydown a floral notes join in on an equal footing, with oleander and touches of jasmin playing and important role, aided by some restrained muguet. This finally leads to a nigh complete turn towards the white floral.

After the first half hour or so it suddenly collapses on me, and become in effect very close to my skin. Nonetheless, the development is not arrested. After a while the amber retreats, and a somewhat nonspecific musky woodsiness evolves. Later on whiffs of a very restrained mossy notes come and go.

I get soft sillage after the first half hour, with limited projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice and autumnal scent initially composed of ingredients of good quality, whose later development is marred by its poor performance. 3/5.
16th March, 2019
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Rose by Caron

A bunch of roses greets me right from the beginning: bright and fresh. This is not a brooding and dark rose, but a rose in the sunshine, which is facilitated by a good initial lashing with neroli and a slightly minty undertone.

The actual rose impression on not just that if a flowering rose - the leaves and stems add to the olfactory symphony, and the overall rose composition has a strong green-woodsy undertone, but more green than woodsy on me.

In the base a sweeter development occurs, with vanilla and iris being the main reason.

I get moderate sillage,excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely and bright rose for sunny and warmer spring days and evenings, it has enough variability in the rose and nuances to convince. Not a very complex creation, but not a complete soliflore either, is is crafted very well. 3.25/5.
14th March, 2019
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Sole Nero by Spadaro

There is citrus in the opening blast, a grapefruit notes that is quite on the sweetish side; it is certainly not an unripe fruit. After the initial moments I get a slightly spicy undertone, which combines a tonka with a gentle spiciness, like white peppers. Restrainedly spicy but neither hot nor sharp - this spice is not a gullet stripper.

Later on a nonspecific woodsiness is added, with a slight undertone of sweet almonds.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This is quite a pleasant spring scent, which has its merit mainly in the first half of its development. Beyond that it is a bit too generic at times. Still, whilst there is no prize to win her for sensational originality, the quality of the ingredients tends to be on the respectable side, and it is blended well. Overall, a - just - positive score. 3/5.
12th March, 2019
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Tuscan Soul by Salvatore Ferragamo

The bergamot is quite strong in the opening blast, but I got some gentle woodsy backgroubd from early on. Petitgrain is added, but the drydown changes into a predominantly white floral mix. Orange blossom is strong, with touches of oleander and magnolia. Later on iris and violet also contribute.

The woodsiness becomes stronger in the base until the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

For most of the time a bright summery scent with floral-woodsy undertones. It is rather linear, lacks complexity, and the performance is nothing to write home about. I do, however, enjoy the bath and skincare products, which are quite concentrated in the fragrance. 2.75/5.
10th March, 2019
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So Pretty by Cartier

The fruity orange-mandarin opening is a warm, quite brightly growing experience. A peachy component is also present soon after the commencement. Soft and welcoming.

The drydown marks a shift into the floral realm. Iris is prominent, but a restrained rose remains in the background, more an accompaniment than the soloist.

The base ventures into the woodsy realm, with a soft musk towards the end. Throughout the base a soft patchouli comes and goes, a patchouli without and harshness and not very dark. A times I get whiffs of a minimal powderiness in the background.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent for evenings is of delightful intensity and mature sophistication. Whilst it can lack some structure at times, it is blended very well from top- quality ingredients. 3.75/5.
09th March, 2019
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Eternity Aqua by Calvin Klein

Apple and cucumber with a significant aquatic components overlaying it all - a pleasant opening that is definitely on the bright side of life.

Later on while florals emerge, with jasmine and gardenia in the forefront of the developments. The fruity aquatic side retreats slowly and the floral side continues its ascension to the prominent impressions at this stage.

The base is grounded in a nonspecific woodsy foundation, upon which a melange of white musks is superimposed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This summery aquatic flanker with its floral and fruity stages is quite different form the original. At certain moments it reminds me of Gant Liquid.
The opening phase is not bad, but with time, especially in the base notes, it turns out to be a bit too generic and too synthetic. Overall not bad but on the mediocre side. 2.75/5.
08th March, 2019
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Voeu de Noël by Caron

A lilac with a lovely violet undertone greets me in the first moment, and soon develops a spiced cinnamon aroma that is testimony to the Christmas theme that the name of this creation alludes to. Cinnamon bun meets a bunch of flowers.

In the drydown a rose develops, a rich, slightly dark, smooth and velvety rose. Additional floral components appear with time, most notably hyacinth, intensive carnation and whiffs of oleander.

Towards the base the slightly sweetish spiciness reasserts itself, accentuated by hints of a very restrained oakmoss that just provides the right counterbalance to the sweetish spices. Through the second part of the development I get a soft and bright powderiness in the background.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of fifteen hours on my skin.

This scent for Christmas evenings is of amazing intensity and purity. It is composed of ingredients of the highest quality, with good texture, structured well and very skillfully blended.

One of Caron's finest. 4.25/5.
07th March, 2019
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Chic for Men by Carolina Herrera

The opening blast with its lemon and the watermelon is quite nicely done.

In the drydown a sweet cinnamon/sugary aroma takes over, more a reminiscence of cinnamon candy than the actual brown-tube shaped spice.

The base is awash with white musks, which are now rather dominant. The occasional burst of an ambery sidekick and whiffs of vanilla that are present from time to time cannot detract from the fact that until the end the white musks rule.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin, even after very liberal application.

A spring daytime scent that starts off quite pleasantly but losing quality form the drydown on. It turns increasingly generic and overly synthetic, especially in the more recent times I sampled it.
2.75/5.
06th March, 2019
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Tease Rebel by Victoria's Secret

The violet leaf - actually more actual violet is somewhat prominent on me, with the drydown adding a somewhat bland rose.

The rest consisted of a nonspecific white floral mix that faded out gradually.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant but nothing special. Nonetheless, this is lacking any of the excesses of many products of this house: it lacks the cloyingly intrusive and sickening sweetness as well as the hardly tolerable synthetic attack that often characterises them. 2.75/5.
22nd February, 2019
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Honour Woman by Amouage

The fruity combination of light pepper, cardamom and a general fruitiness - rhubarb with hints of ripe apple - makes for a pleasant opening. Not too fresh, but light and bright.

The drydown turns floral- muguet in the forefront. Seconded by carnation, the main player arises a bit later: a bright tuberose, open, bright and lacking any waxiness. Lovely!

Again another turnaround in the base: some incense, with opoponax and an ambergris-like undertone adding further depth.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a very good nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent’s three phases are contrasting with each other very nicely, making for an entertaining array of olfactory experiences. The main drawback is the egregious use of synthetics. 3.25/5.
20th February, 2019
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Asrar Attar by Amouage

The opening notes of this attar combines a slightly bitter-sweet orange note with white floral undertones. Very soon, a slightly spicy saffron arises and gradually increases in intensity.

In the drydown more spicy additions are merging with the top notes, and a smoky amber impression adds further depth.

The base looses a lot of the previous components, replacing it with light, white musks and a somewhat nonspecific woodsiness. Just a few gentle touches of a somewhat perfunctory oud add further coulour.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

The oily attar is suitable for spring, and its major hallmark is its lack of heaviness and intrusiveness. This is a comparatively light attar, but nonetheless quite rich and, at least initially, intensive. The base is less impressive, but overall the quality of its ingredients is respectable, and the performance good. 3.25/5.
19th February, 2019
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Euphoria Men by Calvin Klein

A pleasant, slightly sweet, slightly watery and thinned down opening blast, with a nonspecific hesperidic touch that is combined with a light white pepper.

The drydown adds a pleasant, slightly sweet, slightly watery herbal element, that is combined with a nonspecific woodsy undertone.

The base is characterised (not meaning it had actual character!) by a pleasant, slightly sweet, and thinned down mix of a nonspecific white amber impression with a soft patchouli. The patchouli is light and lacks any harshness or darkness.

I get moderate sillage, limited projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a pleasant spring scent that is quite thinned, anaemic and without any intensity or colour. It seems anaemic and watered down to an extent that it looses whatever personality it might have developed - certainly it has less character than Eternity for Men! Add to that the fact that it’s is super-synthetic and bland, then it is clear why this represents olfactory tedium and mediocrity at its fines.

Not bad - just very dull.

No Euphoria here! 2.5/5
18th February, 2019
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Les Heures Voyageuses - Oud & Musc by Cartier

Yes, oud and musc indeed are the two core notes of this creation - but choosing these two as the pillars that carry this olfactory edifice is not exactly prima facie evidence of overflowing creativity; at least not these days when the release of a product without oud in it seems to have become the exception to the norm.

The oud is encouraging in the sense that it is not the commonplace hyper-synthetic screeching and loud oud that is currently so popular.

At times other notes come up - the occasional very soft patchouli touch, and whiffs of a more nonspecific woodsiness - but otherwise it is the dyad that gives this scent its name.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

Another oud composition good for cold autumn climes; mercifully rather a civil oud but the whole does not reach beyond mediocrity. 2.75/5.
17th February, 2019
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Doux Amour by Spadaro

My opening experience evolves around the lily, the jasmine and the patchouli. A pleasant jasmine, and a prominent lily - not very bright but reasonably intense. The patchouli is neither dark nor harsh, and blends in seemingly with the floral top notes.

The drydown veers into the slightly sweeter and smoother realm, carried mainly by a vanilla impression, and underlined by ylang-ylang. All this is rounded off by a rather nonspecific woodsy component.

I get soft sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin, the last three hours being very close to my skin.

Whilst the first part of the development of this spring scent is done quite nicely, the second part is more generic and too overtly synthetic. Furthermore, this mix is very much like the standard template of predictable end notes found not infrequently in the offering these days.

Overall it is the first part that is more convincing and pushes the whole across the line into positive territory - albeit by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
15th February, 2019
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Iris Rose by E.Coudray

For a change, the name of this product is spot on: iris and rose are indeed the core components in the opening squirt, with the iris in the foreground initially, and the rose gaining traction over time.

The iris is pleasant. The rose is of good quality; it is light, bright and nigh cristalline in fragility. These opening notes are of feather-like lightness. Heliotropes add an additional sparkle, and whiffs of - very weak - transient aldehydes add a few more.

The second stage is dominated by white musks and a rather perfunctory patchouli.

I get weak sillage, limited projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin, with the last half very, very close to my skin.

This is a summer scent based on a nice rose impression of good quality, which would deserve a positive score on its own. Unfortunately the rest is of lower quality and quite generic and synthetic in nature, which, combined with the very poor performance, drags down the whole in the rating considerably. 2.75/5.
14th February, 2019
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Elysees 64 83 by Pierre Balmain

The geranium and the white floral blanket that is thrown over my nose is delightful, and soon touched up with whiffs of aldehydes. Nice.

In the drydown the jasmine and the deeper and richer components arise - laudanum with galbanum mainly - but is is the base that darkens even more: orris, touches of a mild ambergris, darker musks, a somewhat restrained moss notes and a nigh indolic undertone. All this is toned down in volume for the last few hours.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A scent for warmer autumn days, in the second half a bit less vivid and a bit attenuated in strength, but composed of ingredients of good quality. 3.5/5.
12th February, 2019
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Eau de Cartier : Zeste de Soleil by Cartier

The opening is clearly dominated by the yuzu/lemon, with a whiff of added spritz.

In the drydown the passion-fruitiness blends with a fresh mint, but over time the fruity note took centre stage and the freshness was replaced by a fruity blanket that was never really egregiously sweet.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

A fresh summery scent not without an original touch but not particular impressive. The performance is not great but it is within expectations of a citrus-based creation. Solid and executed well. 3.25/5.
11th February, 2019
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Noche de Fuego by Spadaro

The slightly honeyed saffron as well as the black pepper open up as a powerful spicy mix, brightened up by the bergamot and smoothed by the saffron. At times hints of an indolic undercurrent are evident.

With time the gradually retreats, and a dark patchouli impression slowly comes to the fore, adding a further spicy touch. On the other hand, this patchouli only displays limited harshness or roughness, and, again, the other notes do their bit to add a smooth undertone.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

A spicy wintery scent without any significant incense component, not ultra-exciting but crafted well. 3.25/5.
10th February, 2019
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Délire de Roses by Caron

Initially this is a nice rose. A bit two-dimensional without much nice, quite bright and positive. It is accompanied by the aroma of green leaves and a touch of jasmine in the background.

After about nearly an hour the rise collapses and retreats into the background until the end, with the green side growing and with whiffs of a nonspecific fruitiness presents at times too. Soon a bright and slightly sweet powdery note developed and moves into the foreground rather quickly. This green powdery impression remains dominant until the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity, the last three hours very close to my skin.

This spring scent’s eponymous rose core is quite agreeable, but the second half is not really convincing. It is all a bit too monochrome and too generic. 2.75/5.
09th February, 2019
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J'ai Fait Un Rêve Lui by Majda Bekkali

The initial blast combines white pepper, saffron and a tonka note that combine to a medley of a sweet gourmand spiciness. The pepper is gentle initially, but with time it grows stronger and moves gradually more into the foreground. The saffron is surprisingly prominent in the beginning and only slowly decreases in intensity. Whiffs of bergamot add brighter touches.

Later on a nonspecific woodsiness develops, but the main addition is an oud impression. This oud is rather smooth, dark but not too sinister, and lacks any harshness our rough edge.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a pleasant autumnal scent, spicy and restrainedly sweet, well-crafted and with an original touch. 3.25/5.
08th February, 2019
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Liquo by Angela Ciampagna

Licorice and violet are the first thought than go through my mind when the first molecules enter my nasal cavity, and fairly soon aniseed is added to it. This results in a soft and slightly sweet mix, with whiffs of lemon adding some brighter moments.

The second stage adds more floral elements, mainly a restrained lavender as well as a vanilla impression with touches of a gentle spiciness thrown in.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity, with the last hour or two being very close to my skin.

A pleasant autumnal scent for days and evenings, with clear nods into the direction of the gourmand section of the olfactory spectrum. The main strength is the gery good quality of the ingredients; the main weaknesses are the thinning of the intensity of the notes in the second half of the development of this composition, as well as the limited performance. Still, overall a good product: 3.25/5.
07th February, 2019
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Eternity by Calvin Klein

The opening note includes a mandarin part - giving lightness and freshness- and white florals - mainly muguet. This all is combined with a whiff of a green herbal element. Bright and pleasant.

Later on I get an ambery woodsiness that combines with a very soft and pale patchouli impression.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

A light daytime spring scent that starts in an agreeable fashion, but the drydown is very generic and not particularly enticing. 2.75/5.
06th February, 2019
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03. Apr. 1968 by Rundholz Parfums

This is mainly a frankincense-centred composition. True, there is an undertone of brightness that is incorporated into the mix, based on a subtle infusion of heliotropes, and a rather nonspecific fruitiness further down the track. Yet - this frankincense is a frankincense is a frankincense.

The frankincense is rich with a considerable touch of smokiness, but overall it is soft and not a burning frankincense. It lacks the the ceremonious feeling of Etro’s Messe de Minuit, is less harsh than Tom Ford’s Sahara Noir, and much less complex and textured than Amouage’s Interlude.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a magnificent twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

This distinctly wintery incense scent is basically a well-crafted minimalist composition without many bells or whistles, but as such it is doing its job very well. The performance in very impressive indeed. 3.25/5.
04th February, 2019
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Royal Bain de Caron / Royal Bain de Champagne by Caron

The 1941 version:
The opening notes include a mix of floral (lilac and rose) with a musk foundation - a bit surprising as musk is usually used in the later stages of a fragrance,s development. The rose is darker and merged seamlessly with the violet impression; the latter being resinous and dark-ish but without any harshness. Interestingly, a bit later I get whiffs a soft mossy touch that cast and additional shadowy feeling over the whole.

Further into the drydown there is more emphasis on the floral side, mainly due to the addition of jasmine, whilst in the base additional sweetness of a vanilla leads to a soft and sweet fare-well. Moments of soapiness and whiffs of powdery moments come and go.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A delightful blend for spring evenings, soft, sweet - especially in the base - and blended from top-quality ingredients. 3.75/5.
03rd February, 2019
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Vanille Coco by E.Coudray

The cocoanut-vanilla dyad is proclaimed in the name of this creation, and rightly so: the coconut leaps at me immediately, and the vanilla impression is following not far behind.

Initially these two components are quite thin and have a slightly metallic undertone on my skin. With time a chocolate-like tint develops, and additional brightness is provided by an array of white florals: orange blossom with whiffs of lily-of the valley at times.

Later on the whole mix takes on a creamy characteristic, courtesy of an underlying ylang-ylang that develops gradually, and the base is enriched further by a rich tonka note. Towards the end a somewhat nonspecific woodsy impression is intermingled with the rest of this mix.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

This rich wintery gourmand has a bit of a slow start on me and takes time to take off, but once in full swing is takes on more color and depth the more it develops. At some earlier stages it can be a bit plain and simple, but it develops enough complexity to make an impression. 3/5.
02nd February, 2019
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Calvin Klein Man by Calvin Klein

Th opening blast combines a bergamot with orange and a chewing-gum-style spearmint to a fresh and positive mixture. Very briefly after the start this is merged with a herbal and slightly green undertone - bay, rosemary, violet leaf - that adds a less bright side to it. As a result of this merger, the opening notes are overall less the sunny and cheerful blend that the citrus-mint starting point would make one expect them to be.

The drydown added a gently spicy notes, a soft spiciness reminding me of a soft patchouli at times with hints of a faint nutmeg added on.

The base is overall a woodsy affair, combing rather nonspecific wood notes with a somewhat anaemic ambery end note.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This daytime spring scent starts off quite nicely, whilst being a bit predictable, but the later parts are increasingly bloodless, generic and too synthetic. 2.75/5.
01st February, 2019
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Aureum by Stefano Ricci

A pleasant orange with a good touch of ginger and a slightly green undertone - that is how this starts out.

The drydown adds a fresh jasmine note, but it is soon loosing the floral side when a spicy-gingery-clover cluster enter a the scene. At times incense is present too, but in the low-key manner that is neither ceremonial nor haughty.

After a short while the sweeter side of this composition is revealed: cinnamon and tonka. This sweetness never overpowers the rest of the mix, and remains obediently incorporated into the whole.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice scent for warmer autumn days or evenings; well balanced and made of good-quality ingredients. 3/5.
31st January, 2019