Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2320
rbaker Show all reviews
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Paula by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

The refreshing bergamot in the initial blast is given a slightly boozy twist with the artemisia. Soon a Cantaloupe aroma add a fruity side, and the three work together very well.

Later on a woodsy tone leads into the base, where a nice vanilla impression adds depth and further restrained sweetness.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent also suitable for cooler summer days. 3/5.
25th October, 2018
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Luz by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

The fresh citrus blast at the start - lemon and orange mainly - is softened by a fruity sideline, with strawberries the main component. It not a very ripe strawberry and of a restrained sweetness.

The drydown turns floral and a bit less bright, with a pleasant rose - reminiscent of the Bulgarian variety - combining with jasmin to form a nice addition to the citric-fruity side.

The base adds a cedar note with those white musks this house does quite well.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice spring and summer scent. 3/5.
24th October, 2018
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Luna by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

A white floral opening is evident, mainly orange blossom with a touch of muguet, rounded of pleasantly by an osmanthus impresssion.

The drydown develops a woodsy core, with touches of a mild ambery notes that lacks any smokiness.

Towards the end white musks appear and gradually move into the foreground before petering out towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant daytime spring scent, discreet, not very original but composed well. 3/5.
23rd October, 2018
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Carita by Carita

This is a floral creation from the beginning: jasmine is in the foreground, initially freshened up by a good splash of bergamot and other heliotrope sparks.

In the drydown, a rose impression develops that is on the light-hearted side, with iris continuing the lighter feel, whilst a slightly more pensive iris hints at a more somber side. The sweetness is very balanced so far.

The base turns into sweeter directions, courtesy of a tonka note that is touched up with white musks. Still, this is never a cloying affair.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, not very original but crafted carefully and with skill. 3/5.
18th October, 2018
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En Sueños by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

Orange and white florals - that sums up this creation in a nutshell. For the beginning on the orange is not crisp or refreshing, but bright, light and fruity. More pulp than rind.

The drydown brings out the floral side, with orange blossom, geranium and hints of oleander most noteworthy. In the base a nonspecific woodsy note appears towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A soft, gentle and bright scent for warmer spring days, this is sweet but discreetly so; it is never heavy or cloying. Definitely it very original, but crafted well of good-quality ingredients. 3/5.
16th October, 2018
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En El Bosque by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

White florals dominate to top notes: think muguet with touches of freesias. Lovely and characterised by discrete sweetness.

The drydown becomes fruitier, with a good touch of tonka added, and later a woodsy impression develops, mainly sandal with hints of cedar at times.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, not very creative but executed and crafted well. 3/5.
14th October, 2018
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Amor by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

White florals galore. Lots of lily of the valley and a lovely jasmin of limited sweetness are at the core of this creation. Bright but gentle, never heavy or cloying.

The second part is less enticing, and a synthetic amber that is a bit on the flat side. Fortunately the florals are still present, with a soft violet added to it.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, which is not outragingly creative and nicely executed. 3/5.
13th October, 2018
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Alma by Paula Cahen d’Anvers

A fresh and bright bergamot notes dominates the opening phase, accentuated by a fruity undertone that adds pleasant depth.

Soon a floral side comes into the foreground, sporting a pleasant tuberose impression. Still on the brighter side, not too sweet and not particularly waxy, this is an easy-going tuberose that lacks any heaviness. White floral undertones are present at times.

The base adds a woodsy note, with a vanilla gradually taking over towards the end. Continuing the overall thrust of the development of this composition, this vanilla is on the lighter side, pleasantly sweet and never cloyingly heavy.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant floral with a vanilla coda, this is nice in spring. Not particularly original but crafted well. 3/5.
09th October, 2018
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Moonshine : A Gentleman's Cologne by EastWest Bottlers

A somewhat boozy gin, at times with a transient freshish undertone of an unusual bergamot/citronellol mix, soon gives way to a tobacco/wood leather impression.

The drydown adds a pleasant patchouli, which is more on the brighter side. Occasion spicy touches are noted.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Quite an agreeable autumn scent for warmer days, not bad but lacking depth and originality a bit. 2.75/5.
03rd October, 2018
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Cheap and Chic I Love Love by Moschino

Grapefruit, lemon and an orangey note are at the centre of this opening phase. Fresh, but not really strongly refreshing but a touch attenuated; a pleasant start nonetheless.

The drydown emphasises fruity and floral components: redcurrant with muguet, and a touch of rose. In the base woodsy notes appear, with white musks evident towards the end. A touch of sweetness is provided by a slightly spicy cinnamon.

I get soft sillage, good projection and a limited longevity of four hours on my skin.

Quite a nice summer scent, that is, however, not performing very well. The ingredients can be a bit on the generic side at times, but it has its nice moments. It is very balanced, and the sweet side is incorporated judiciously. Overall just making it to a positive score - by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
16th September, 2018
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Fuel For Life Spirit by Diesel

A nice orange-grapefruit opening blast is combined with a cinnamon accompaniment, and both together result is a citrus impression that is given additional warmth and depth. His combination is so well executed that a surprisingly interesting opening phase is the result. Very nice.

The drydown adds white floral components with an overarching iris note that is not bad at all. Later in the drydown a moderately intestive incense arises that is quite plain and neither balsamic nor very peppery. This incense is friendly, approachable and not of the high ceremonial variety.

The base is a bit of a letdown, with a rather generic ambery tone added, otherwise I do not get much additional development in the base notes.

The sillage is strong, the projection excellent and the longevity am good eight hours.

A rich autumnal creation and is overall quite satisfactory and not without an interesting touch. 3.25/5.
09th September, 2018
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Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

The overarching of Eternity is green and botanical for all eternity, or at least until the end. Additional freshness is provided initially by an infusion of an orangey citrus that is quite pleasant.

Soon a nice lavender arises, and together with a good touch of basil continues the green theme, occasionally with a slightly grassy touch.

The base has a nonspecific woodsy undertone, what seems to have become more generic over the years, and is suspicious of some reformulation over time. There is a slash of a slightly anaemic vetiver evident to brighten up the final stages.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Overall an agreeable spring scent, which originally was composed of decent-quality ingredients. Having been a staple of mine for years, I could not fail to note a movement towards becoming blander over time, with the top notes deteriorating the least. 3.5/5 for the original impression, now 3.25/5.
03rd September, 2018
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Château Rouge by Ne'emah

The opening note is a citrus - a touch lemony - but not particularly refreshing. The drydown brings on the floral core of this creation, with a jasmin that pairs with a sweetish rose impression.

The base develops a woodsy tone, with a concoction of white musk providing and depth towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Agreeable at times, this spring scent is a tad to generic to entice. 2.75/5.
02nd September, 2018
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Laya by Ne'emah

The opening notes are a mix of a nice vanilla with a convincing cedar - aromatic but not too sweet. In the drydown other woodsy vibes are added in, but the main later development is the addition of a dark and rich musk.

The musk lingers on until the end; a soft and dark note that is not particularly animalic on the whole. It blends in well with the vanilla.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A good scent in winter, well crafted and in all its richness never cloying or overly intrusive. 3.5/5.
31st August, 2018
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Desert Rose by Ne'emah

The opening is a citrus-fruity mix that is a bit nonspecific initially. The drydown develops an nice jasmine, which is underlined by a rather restrained orange blossom impression.

The base changes tac again, and a woodsy core developed that has an undercurrent of white musks providing a combination that lasts until the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring creation that is fairly nondescript with ingredients that are very generic overall. 2.5/5.
30th August, 2018
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Shahla by Ne'emah

The fresh opening combines a lemony citrus notes with a green and slightly grassy undertone in a pleasant manner.

The heart notes shift toward a darkish rose, which is given and interesting twist by a good lashing of orris - and leads into a darker and more somber territory.

The base add a rich and dark musk impression, which adds touches of spice and a whiff of animalic spirit.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nicely versatile autumnal scent that combines a brighter starts with a darker second half. 3/5.
29th August, 2018
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Zadig by Emilio Pucci

The opening blast is fresh an fruity, with orange and peach being freshened up by an aldehydic lashing of bergamot.

In the drydown appears what will be to central to the development: jasmine and ylang-ylang, transforming the initial fruitiness into warm and floral oriental vibes. Further sweetness and warmth is added by touches of cinnamon and vanilla, although this sweet tone is never intrusive or cloying and blends in seamlessly with the whole mix.

The base contributes an animalic touch, with a dark and musky civet counterbalancing the sweetness quite effectively, assisted by ambery and leathery undertones towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A complex Oriental scent for spring or autumn evenings, that exudes richness combined with elegance. 3.5/5
28th August, 2018
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Intoxication d'Amour by D'Orsay

A rich white floral opening developed into a floral side and eventually opens up to develop a delightful sandalwood note, which gradually takes over.

The opening florals a mainly muguet and gardenia, and they are freshened up by an orangey undertones. The floral and the fruity combine most harmoniously.

After a while a very classical lavender arises, and the development heads into a sweeter territory, where peach and honeysuckle add depth and softness.

Since the middle notes a sandalwood impression has been developing and gradually is taking over. In the base it is strongest. It is a pure, cedar-free and without any spicy sidelines - simple and straightforward in a positive way. The sweetness is re-enforced by tonka and blends well with the wood and florals.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Rich, classical and sophisticated - maybe a touch lacking structure at times, but overall delightful. 3.75/5.
23rd August, 2018
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Green Water by Jacques Fath

This review il is of the original 1947 version:

The opening blast is gorgeous: a mix of lemon, bergamot and peppermint, with a touch of verbena - refreshing and bright. Not purely bright for long though, as the freshness is counterbalanced by a herbal component in the drydown; I get clary sage and basil mainly.

After several hours the citrus side is fading, and floral notes develop; I get lavender and a gentle and richly somber rose impression that remain present throughout the base.

From the top notes it is the peppermint that is most persistent; it becomes a bit patchier with time but retains a distinct present until the end, when a musky touch is present. At times I get whiffs of a soft notes of a mossy character towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin - excellent for such a citrus/bergamot-based composition.

This is a beautiful scent for early summer days and evenings, which is blended well from ingredient of very high quality. Less crisp freshness but more depth and development than Monsieur Balmain. Traditional in its approach, it is expressing supreme craftsmanship, and the performance is beyond expectations. 4/5.
22nd August, 2018
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Iss by Laura Tonatto

A nice mix of sandal, musk and an ambery touch, at times with a waxy undertone. Underlying all this is a citrus impression that adds freshness, and the whole is well balanced, albeit a bit linear.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant in spring and agreeable. 3/5.
20th August, 2018
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Grès Monsieur Sport by Grès

The opening blast is simple sheer beauty: lavender, bergamot and, without further ado, a delicious clary sage form a triumvirate made in olfactory heaven: clear and refined.

In the drydown I find a soft and characterful patchouli with a floral undertone, which gradually and seamlessly merges with the opening notes.

The base takes a different turn, with an ambery soft leather note arising that is of particular beauty. Discreetly sweet and honeyed, it combines the slightly mossy amber with an impression of gently tanned Italian nappa calf leather as it is used in small leather accessories. At times it reminds me of Cabaret de Grès, which I use quite a bit.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a gorgeous spring scent that is beautifully blended of top-quality traditional-style natural ingredients. A bit less deeply textured and fresher than dunhill 30, and a bit brighter than Cartier’s Santos Eau de Sport (maybe the greatest Cartier ever made), this Grès is sublime and sophisticated it its classic sportiness. 4.25/5.
17th August, 2018 (last edited: 18th August, 2018)
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Romantique Montmartre by Paris Mon Amour

The opening is a mix of white florals - a bit of oleander here and a bit of muguet there - with a fresh undertone. Not bad.

The drydown soon turns sweeter, carried by a tonka impression with an almond aroma than mixes with the florals nicely. A slight hint of tea leads to a nonspecific woodsy impression that dominates the base until the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This is quite nice as a spring daytime scent, although a tad generic and quite synthetic. 2.75/5.
15th August, 2018
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Place Vendôme in Love by Paris Mon Amour

The opening is a fruity affair, with apple-orange and a berry undertone most discernible. In the drydown the turn to the floral commences, with ylang-ylang the clear winner in prominence for quite a while, whilst the fruitiness fades into the background.

Jasmine and rose - the latter a bit bland - arise, and towards the end a tonka base is evident and adds to a heavier sweetness than was present previously. Muguet and a bunch of white musks are added in the last hour.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A sweet spring scent that is rather synthetic and quite generic, but never terribly cloying. 2.5/5.
09th August, 2018
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Eiffel Kiss by Paris Mon Amour

Rose and strawberry - quite a sweet starts that is balanced by an orange with neroli. Sound chaotic but works together not too badly.

White musks and vanilla emerge further into the drydown, and the sweetness persists and can be cloying, especially further into the base.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Quite an unusual opening in the spring scent but the second part is overly generic and too synthetic. 2.5/5
07th August, 2018
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Chérie Elysées by Paris Mon Amour

Sweet vanilla is at the core of this creation. Sweet.

In the drydown jasmine and other florals. Sweet.

In the base site musks are added. Sweet.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Good in spring if you like is synthetic - and sweet. Less extreme in sweetness and artificiality than some scents if Victoria’s Secret but not for everyone. 2.5/5.
02nd August, 2018
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Oud Ambroisie by Lancôme

Another rose-oud dominated affair: a brief initial moment where the rose arises, but soon the oud takes over. This is a harsh, quite shrill and strong oud, which, unfortunately, displays the grating intrusiveness synthetic ouds often display nowadays. A patchouli note that is intermingled with the oud at a later stage is quite crisp and, at least initially, does not smoothen the mix either.

Later on a sweet honey-vanilla undertone develops that counterbalances the oud to some extent; and by the time the base is reached, the whole is more balanced.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

Anther rose oud indeed, wintery and towards the base quite agreeable, but quite synthetic on the whole. 2.75/5.
01st August, 2018
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Ekos Cacau by Natura

Cocholat and cocoa - with a slight coconut undertone that starts to develop early in the drydown. On me it is not really sweet, but more like (maybe Brazilian?) unsweetened cocoa powder of good natural quality.

I got moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely spring scent reverberating a chocolaty cocoa feel with touches of coconut. Simple but executed well. 3/5.
31st July, 2018
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Figue de Vigne by Caudalíe

Very nice fig-centred fragrance, initially with an citrus touch and added fruity components in the drydown. Some pear at times. Whiffs of cardamom, rose, a very light carnation-like impression and some cedar in the base. Mainly, however, fig galore.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A must for fig lovers. 3.25/5.
30th July, 2018
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Tinta Roja by Fueguia

Floral galore! White florals initially - gardenia with hints of muguet greet me first. In the drydown whiffs of rose, but the prominent development is that of a tuberose - neither very loud nor intrusive, but blending in well. Further down the track a vanilla impression arises - again not too intrusive or cloying.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, a bit unoriginal but blended and executed well. 3/5.
29th July, 2018
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Burberry Brit Summer Edition for Women by Burberry

A citrus-fruity opening sets the tone: discrete freshness is the name of this olfactory game. It is not a bad game, just a bit predictable.

The drydown ad a sweetish almond impression, added to a white flower undertone; I mainly get muguet and peony.

The base is a concoction of white musk with a soft ambery accent towards the end. In the second half a certain powderiness is notable.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a summery scent, more bright than truly refreshing, which is quite pleasant, but a tad too generic and synthetic. 2.5/5.
28th July, 2018