Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2247
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oud by Rag & Bone

The opening phase is quite pleasant: a peasant bergamot, quite in the middle and refreshing and sweet, with the additional buttressing by a herbal accent.

The base adds a gentle incense aroma, restrained and not at all on the ceremonial side, whilst the base adds some nonspecific woodsy notes. The one thing that - at least on my skin - is conspicuous by its absence is the one ingredient that gives this product its name: the oud. It is missing. The title is a is misnomer.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

Quite and agreeable scent for warmer autumn days, It’s later phases are hampered by being a bit too nonspecific and lacking some structure - and any connection with the name of this composition. Another one in the oud flood washing over the perfumery shelves - but oud-free. 2.75/5.
26th April, 2018
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Royal Princess Oud by Creed

The opening is pleasant: a slightly sweetish bergamot, with a soft violet and a good jasmine making a gently fresh-floral mix.

The drydown adds a smooth patchouli - no harshness here - with a restrained aldehydic - at tunes nigh-fruity-ozonic undertone, which is not too synthetic. The base adds vanilla - neither cloying nor dominant- on a woodsy background that is spiced up with a bit of benzoin-infused styrax.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a floral spring scent that is not bad, but overall a bit nondescript at times and not structured particularly well. The name is complete deception: there is no oud, not even any synthetically derived oud, in in this composition. 2.75/5.
24th April, 2018
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2000 Fleurs by Creed

The floral blast that greets me during the opening blast sets the tone: floral, floral, floral!

The top notes are dominated a lovely magnolia, that is supported by a fairly gentle violet with a light touch of a rose.

The drydown sees the rise of a soft jasmine - less intense than in Jasmal of the same House - that is accompanied by a haunting narcissus, an ingredient used only rarely and then not always convincingly, but here it finds in beautifully. It is mixed with iris in the background and this dyad works very well.

The base skips the usual Creedy ambergris for a softer and smother ambery variant, but the floral representatives, especially narcissus and jasmin, play important roles right up to the last minutes.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a - for Creed - sensational thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A delicious spring scent for daytime as well as evenings, this Creed, whilst clearly traditional in its core, is nonetheless with not without a creative twist, is composed of ingredients of very high quality, and is blended very well. 3.5/5.
23rd April, 2018
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Jasmal by Creed

This is a lovely jasmine composition. The jasmine is present right form the start, is rich but elegantly restrained and never sets a foot wrong.

In the early stages the bergamot adds a fresh touch, being in the background on my skin at least. This is never a refreshing creation.

In the drydown the ambergris - often used by Creed - is present indeed, but is is smoother and softer than in many other products of this House.

Towards the ends, a gentle woodsy impression together with whiffs of galbanum add another pleasant twist to this Jasmin-centred mix.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A delightful Jasmin scent with a few uplifting touches, ideal for spring and blended well of high-quality ingredients. 3.25/5.
22nd April, 2018
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Spring Flower by Creed

Fruity-floral is indeed the core of the opening phase. Apricot and bergamot are prominent initially, with the fruity side outweighing The bergamot; the latter keeps up a bright atmosphere.

The drydown reverses the ration, putting the floral side upfront. A rose impression arises, quite intense but remaining on the brighter side and expressing some characteristics of a restrained tuberose in the background. This is given added depth by a pleasant jasmin in the background.

The base displays mainly the jasmin, and combines it with the ambergris so typical for this house. White musks appear towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable spring creation for day and evening, this scent is not particularly creative, but most of the notes are nicely done. At times the fruity component can appear a bit too artificial, but overall it is solidly crafted. In total, it - just - deserves a positive rating. 3/5.
21st April, 2018
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Acqua Fiorentina by Creed

The opening combines apple and pear notes very nicely, fruity and with an added restrained freshness owing to a lemony bergamot in the background.

The drydown gives it a floral turn, with a light rose notes and whiffs of carnation and muguet moving in, but the fruitiness remains into the base. The rose is simple and neither rich nor heavy.

The base loses the fruity parts, and sees the emergence of a woodsy layer that is mainly cedar in nature, but I get again touches bergamot interwoven with the wood and the florals.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent for days and warmer evening, which is classic in the selection of its good-quality ingredients. It is blended very well. 3.25/5.
19th April, 2018
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My Queen by Alexander McQueen

The initial mix of orange blossom and heliotropes - with hints of a dark lime-neroli mixed in at times - offers shaded freshness of a restrained nature. Nice.

The drydown takes a floral turn, with iris being given richness by a darker violet impression. Soon the base rings in with a pleasant vanilla impression, which has caramel characteristics initially.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A scent for spring days and evenings, this composition is not particularly creative, but it is blended very well of ingredients of very good quality. Very solid. 3.25/5.
18th April, 2018
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Kingdom by Alexander McQueen

The opening note is based on a citrus mix. Orange and bergamot, with an undercurrent of a somber but bright-ish neroli - freshness tampered by a shadowy veil cast over it.

The drydown adds a floral side, with jasmine and a rose in the foreground. At times the jasmine is stronger, at other times the dark rose comes up trump. The slight oriental spiciness of cumin adds additional depth.

The base adds woodsy aromas and myrtle-style herbal impressions giving interesting complexity to the vanilla that forms the core of the last hours of the development of this composition.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal scent for warmer days and evening is delightful. This is not of stellar quality, but it is a very good creation. It is not without original touches, the quality of the ingredients is high, and the blending is smooth without losing structure. A kingdom, a kingdom for a flâcon! 3.5/5.
17th April, 2018
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Good Life by Davidoff

After the owning phase with its berry and lavender mix, the fig arises, constituted of fig leaves and a fruit in unison. Not really very sweet and not unpleasant.

In the heart notes the violet is evident, a violet that is quite smooth, and in the base accompanied by soft woodsy impressions. Whiffs of clove-like aromas take turns with a gently resinous undertone, but the fig note remains present interwoven into the whole mix.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A smooth spring scent for cooler days, its main drawback is its synthetic nature, as well as the generic character of some of its constituents. 2.75/5.
16th April, 2018
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Leather Blend by Davidoff

The leather impression is there right from the beginning, composed of a component that reminds me of many of the hundreds of laboratory ouds that have been released over the last few years. A dark peppery accord is also present in the background.

In the drydown the oud-like parts have harsh patchouli characteristics at times, with a dark but somewhat flat rose is lurking beneath it all. At times amber shines through, with the whole forming a leather composition that is on the dark side, never sweet, but also never with the raw gasoline tone that is the hallmarks of some other leather creations.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and then hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst overall recognisable as a leather scent, this autumnal blend is characterised by a very synthetic core, which has been used in numerous permutations so often in the recent past that is has become the expression of a certain lack of inspiration. Whilst not bad as a leather-oud fragrance, it is not more that average. 2.5/5.

15th April, 2018
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Silver Shadow by Davidoff

The opening combines a woodsy core with a slightly herbal undertone. The wood is initially quite nonspecific, but with time this crystallizes into a cedar impression that is quite all right.

In the drydown a certain spiciness arises, mainly a moderately crispy patchouli. Together with the woodsy note this mix turns rounder, smoother and creamier, with an ambery undertone towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal scent for warmer days or evenings in a tad generic and synthetic, but whilst it is a bit ordinary on the one side, it displays a pleasant smoothness too. Overall 2.7/5.
14th April, 2018
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Davidoff Adventure by Davidoff

A bergamot-citric opening is followed by a nonspecific-fruity drydown, which sports a mild influence of white peppers.

The base combines a rather faceless woodsy impression with a copious lashing of white musks.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Generic, synthetic and bland, with a certain agreeable tediousnessg . An adventure in blandness. 2.25/5.
12th April, 2018
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Cool Water Woman by Davidoff

The initial citrus fruitiness, with a prominence of unripe lemon on me, gives way to white floral notes, with lily-of-the-valley in the foreground in the drydown.

Later a nonspecific woodsy impression emerges, with a fruity vetiver signifying the final stages.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent that is not bad, but too synthetic and its components too generic to enthuse. 2.5/5.
10th April, 2018
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Christmas Tree by Demeter Fragrance Library

Initially displaying a coniferous impression, albeit a somewhat dull one, this retreats after the first 30 minutes and leaves me with a somewhat woodsy, plasticky and nondescript residual note.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

Not particularly awful, but apart from a brief initial agreeable moment this has really very little going for it. 2.5/5.
09th April, 2018
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Mojito by Demeter Fragrance Library

Apart from a mildly boozy touch of mint, there is little that would justify its name.

I cannot get any convincing white rum, and I smell neither lime nor any other hints of a mojito.

What I get is a slightly sugary fruitiness with the occasional undertone of caramel.

The sillage is moderate, the projection is good, and the longevity is seven hours on my skin.

Quite a generic scent for warmer autumn days, it is quite a mediocre composition, and a misnomer. The creators of this one could maybe talk to their bartender more often.

More a downfall than a highball. 2.5/5
08th April, 2018
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Clover by Demeter Fragrance Library

Initially I get a darker grassy impression, then a laboratory-chemical attack of the unpleasant kind follows. Eventually it settles into a green clover-like note, with a touch of bright contemporary soapiness. There it no further development of note.

I get soft sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring scent, quite synthetic but not too bad, at times pleasant. 2.75/5.
07th April, 2018
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Dirt by Demeter Fragrance Library

In the opening note I get an aroma of soil indeed - garden compost meets forest soil. Alas, then I get and awfully chemical blast, but the latter fortunately proves to be transient.

For the rest of the time the soil impression prevails.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice idea of an autumnal soil scent, but too synthetic at times and rather linear. Additionally, there is an underlying sweetish undertone that does not make it any more attractive. Not bad overall, though. 2.75/5.
06th April, 2018
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Dragon Fruit by Demeter Fragrance Library

A nonspecific fruity concoction that is a bit sweet, and fruity in a moderately tropical sense. Not really fresh or citric, and non particularly reminiscent of dragon fruits.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Generic in a summery sense. Quite agreeable. Very linear. Fruity it is, but that is all there is. 2.5/5.
05th April, 2018
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New Zealand by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is a fresh, green and grassy scent first and foremost. Crisp, whiffs of citric hints initially are intertwined with marine tones in the background. At times woodsy hints are present.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This summery green creation is a bit of a cliche-mongerer - there is more to Kiwiland than this scent implies- but is is well conceptualised and executed. Whilst rather linear and with less depth and quality ingredients than, for instance, Geoffrey Beene’s Bowling Green, this is still a fragrance worth noting. The performance is excellent. 3.25/5.
04th April, 2018
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Martini by Demeter Fragrance Library

Martini??

I get neither Gin nor Vodka. I get neither Martini, nor any Noeilly-Prat, Kina Lillet or any other vermouth of note. I am drawing a blank.

What do I get? A slightly boozy, spicy, aromatic concoction with hints of nonspecific red wine.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a magnificent thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

This winters scent is a misnomer. It has very little to do with Martini. This is a gluhwein scent with excellent performance. 2.75/5.
03rd April, 2018
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Paperback by Demeter Fragrance Library

I cannot really find any smell of paperbacks specifically in this one. A restrained nonspecific sweetness with a slightly dusty-powdery undertone at times.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and a very acceptable eight hours of longevity on my skin.


Not completely off the notion conjured up by the name, but not particularly convincing either. As a scent it is pretty middle-of-the-road. 2.75/5.
02nd April, 2018
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Sanrio - My Melody by Demeter Fragrance Library

A very artificial almond-vanilla. Mixing laboratory chemicals. Not unpleasant. Moderate sillage, adequate projection; lasts six hours on my skin.

Pleasant. Mediocre, simple, synthetic. 2.25/5
01st April, 2018
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Pineapple by Demeter Fragrance Library

Very much a monochrome creation. Pineapple it is indeed, although at the beginning rather chemical laboratory fumes were offending my nose. Once this olfactory attack has subsided, there is pure pineapple left over.

This pineapple is quite ripe and sweet. It is quite linear, unsurprisingly, but some nuances change; at times emphasising the leaves more but eventually affirming the pineapple impression.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst this summery creation is too synthetic at times, it does deliver a good pineapple note, which is undiluted and not blended with other components worth noting - no Aventus here. It is not bad at all but does not quite make the cut into unequivocally positive territory. 2.75/5.
31st March, 2018
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New Leaf by Demeter Fragrance Library

This creation has two major phases:

The first one is bright green, fresh and lucid like fresh leaves; vibrant like a sunny spring day in the country. Uplifting and cheery.

The second phase is darker, displaying fragrant somberness of a deeper and shadowy kind. Later on a woodsy impression mingles with an oak-moss style note, with the latter being restrainedly crisp without any pungency. At times it resembles some characteristics of a cheaper version of the amazing Blend 30 by Dunhill.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and and an astounding eleven hours of longevity on my skin, albeit very close to my skin towards the end.

This spring scent resembles a walk from sunny grasslands into a forest. It is a bit linear and simplistic, but well blended, vivid and rich. 3.5/5.
29th March, 2018
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Noise by Ephemera by Unsound

Aldehydes and pepper from an spicy-bright duo, that soon sees a saffron added in the drydown, which is otherwise quite linear. Whiffs of smokiness and woodsy touches come and go.

The later stages have and ozonic undertone, with the labdanum in the background. This stage is somewhat generic and less vivid.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and n excellent nine hours of longevity.


The start is simple, but easily the best and a not unoriginal part of this creation; the quality of the raw materials is high. Overall, the good performance is another strength and the unexciting later half constitutes the main drawback. Just, barely, a positive score. 3/5
28th March, 2018
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Bulgarian Rose by Demeter Fragrance Library

The rose this creation is made of if not the whole rose - I do not get much of the perfume of the petal. What I get is some of that, but the rest of the rose is at the heart of the matter here.

Following down towards the ground, I get lots of leaves. Green, fresh and wet leaves. Then I get woodsy stem notes, mixing with the leaves.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a very good eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring rose scent is emphasising the leaves and stems, and for some moments things fall into place nicely - but the real issue is that it is rather synthetic at other times, and sometimes too synthetic. A bit too much laboratory chemistry, but displaying good performance - not bad overall. 2.75/5.
27th March, 2018
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Giallo Elicriso by Acca Kappa

The opening has a fresh-ish character, where citrus with a fruity pomegranate undertones mixes with touches of Pinot Noir; the whole has an ozonic vibe.

The drydown presents with a floral core, whilst the base adds a woodsy-herbal side. Here cedar is added to a slightly peppery myrrh and a nettle impression, with vetiver brightening it up again.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Not without some original ideas, this spring scent develops well enough to delight. 3/5.
26th March, 2018
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Banana Flambée by Demeter Fragrance Library

A strong banana note at the beginning is soon followed by a sweetish caramel note. An orangey note develops in the drydown, with a slightly boozy undertone.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal gourmand hits the banana flambé flavour well in general, but it is rather synthetic and some of the side notes are quite generic. Still - not bad. 2.75/5.
23rd March, 2018
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Clubman Musk by Pinaud

The opening brings on the musk - a touch dark, not heavy, and with a slightly fruity citrus undertone initially.

Although this is a musk scent, there is some additional development notable. A floral touch - geranium above all, adds a softer side, whilst gently restrained touches of oakmoss add additional character. A somewhat nonspecific woodsy impression is present towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A simple autumnal musk that has enough development to be interesting. The performance is not great, but it’s label of an After Shave Cologne makes one expect that anyway. 3/5.
22nd March, 2018
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Flowering Tonka by Demeter Fragrance Library

The name gives it away - tonka and florals. Initially a somewhat nonspecific white floral appears, but soon the tonka arises and gradually takes over. Quite agreeable a tonka it is, but rather mundane and linear too.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumn scent with somewhat poor performance that is too simple and mediocre to excite. 2.5/5.
21st March, 2018