The two main phases are obvious: the leathery-smoky opening, combining a deep and slightly harsh leather with a smoky, campfire-cum-barbecue impression. Which on my skin is never overly intrusive or unpleasant. Rich - yes, intensive - yes, deep - yes, but all well combined.
The leather is quite dark, and a bit like an old leather coat, with hardly any gasoline not present - this is much less bold, raw and gutsy than Knize Ten; it is deeper and darker than Cuiron and also than the Cuir of the Nombre d'Or series.
A green, slightly herbal and slightly floral transition leads to the second phase, which sees a fairly dark vanilla together with a Taueresque sweetly-spicy incense impression; a synthetic sandal wood together with the spice keep the sweetness in check; this composition is never overly sweet, sickly or cloying; the balance is quite impressive.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a great eleven hours of longevity.
The wintery fragrance displays many of the features characteristics for many of Tauer's products. Very pleasant and blended very well, overall very nice. 3.25/5.
A strongly aldehydic bergamot refreshes my nostrils with a summery opening vibe - not uncreative and also pleasant! Soon it is softened by floral impressions in the drydown, with the ylang-ylang dominant on my skin, supported by a more discrete tuberose. It is never really a sweet composition on my skin.
The base is clearly a turn into the woodsy territory, but the wood is rather nonspecific except from occasionally a synthetic sandal arising, with whiffs of a tame and somewhat pale sandalwood shining through here and there. A bit of vanilla and a good helping of styrax characterise the final stretch.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin, although it is performing less well after the first half.
An agreeable summer scent, with a nice concept but not rivetingly exciting and a bit uninspiring in the second half. 3/5.
Indeed a rose mono-floral composition, but not boring: the rose is brightish, with a distinct fruity component initially, but soon a greeninsh-herbaceous undertone is evident. Later rich rose blossom dominates, and towards the end woody impressions come and go. All these permutations keep it interesting.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity an impressive twelve hours on my skin.
A spring scent galore for the rise lover. 3.25/5.
Yes, yummy vanilla galore, sweet but not sticky or cloying m, medium heavy, rich, intensive, a touch creamy and with elements of natural goodness - veering into the realm of the gourmand.
There is enough variation to prevent boredom, with at times a floral undertone, and towards the end a touch of a smooth and fairly bright patchouli. He opportunity to play out a harsher and crispier patchouli against the vanilla sweetness could have been grasped here by other perfumers, but Tauer opted for a more tone-in-tone interplay of the patchouli and the clearly dominant vanilla - a valid approach. The rather perfunctory tobacco sidekick, however, is nothing to write home about.
The performance is impressive, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.
A well-balanced but rich wintery vanilla delight, maybe a tad linear and not particularly nuanced, but made of high-quality ingredients and well blended. 3.25/5.
The top note is somewhat unexpected: a bit of an old and musty leather seat, dusty whiffs with the aroma of an old and neglected library - more private basement book collection than All Souls Library - and a hint of a slightly boozy tonka in the background.
The drydown states with a slightly greenish-earthy phase, where a mild and unusually restrained ginger appears, but soon a rather rich cedar impression arises and inexorably grows in intensity. A nice cedar, with only a modicum of pencil shavings and quite natural - reminding me a bit of Le Labo's work with this wood note.
The base notes sees a very attenuated birch tar added on, but the cedar remains in the leading role, fading out very slowly, with the dusty leather a bit stronger in my skin towards the end.
The performance is impressive, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a tremendous thirteen hours in longevity on me - splendid.
Overall, an autumnal creation that is a bit like an toned-down and cedar-infused version of a East India of the same house. The quality of the ingredients is superb and it is well blended, although it lacks a bit of brilliance and excitement. 3.25/5.
The opening is quite unusual, with a dry papery and gently leathery undertone, with a slight and not unpleasant metallic hint.
After a somewhat nonspecific woodsy phase the best part is disclosed: a deep balsamic Oriental incense. It is well made, not really heavy and well balanced; intensive without being overly intrusive. It is a bit like the incense in certain Indian temples, and lacks high-church feeling of Messe a Minuit, and it is much less loud and harsh than Beaufort's East India, for instance; there is no birch tar here.
On the other hand there is only a bit of sweetness in this Tauer incense creation, and it lacks any significant creaminess or elegance; this is no Angelique Encens.
The performance is very respectable with moderate sillage, good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
Overall an agreeable winter fragrance, discrete enough to wear to the office. The top notes are interesting and the incense well made, and whilst it is indubitably a rather linear scent it is not without its merits, albeit nothing earth shattering. 3/5.
A smoky opening with a bright undertone and a slightly boozy touch but not very smarting or overwhelming- that is the first impression I am getting. Soon the drydown adds a salty undertone, quite like the taste and smell of a sea breeze convincingly done. This combines with the smoky side to an interesting fire-salt dyad that is quite an original idea indeed. A woodfire on the beach.
The base notes see the saltiness receding and a balasaming note arising, which has a woodsy and at times nigh-sweetish touch.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity nine hours.
Much less strong and less gutsy than East India, this wintery creation is more office-wearable and arguably the more original creation of the two, but is lacks the raw and wild beauty of the latter. 3.5/5.
Now this opening blast has "oomph": a strong and spicy freshly ground black pepper explosion - move over, New York Pepper Steak! - with a boozy strong black tea - Ruhuna style; the opening of Bvlgari Black comes to mind but with lashings of the above mentioned pepper on top.
In the drydown the other star if this creation arises - a very nice birch tar impression; harsh, dark and grating - just delicious; and is it all enhanced my an underlying incense that brands in beautifully with the tar, the pepper and the tea. The tea notes grows weaker over time and is replaced by a cardamom; this overall softens it a bit and gradually.
After about five hours the tar and pepper diminish in strength, and I get a base where the incense move a into the foreground; much rounder and softer now. The end phase has shed the harshness nigh completely.
The performance displays strong sillage, brilliant projection and a respectable longevity of eight hours.
A delightful winter scent, made of top-notch ingredients and beautifully structured. Probably too strong for the office.
The name Beaufort is apparently derived from the scale to measure ocean winds, and the ingredients as well as the name of this fragrance conjure up images of tea clippers and spice merchants. Like an ocean voyage on a sailing ship, this is not for the faint-hearted. 3.75/5.
This is a floral opening, but it is not a terribly sweet and soft floral character I am encountering here. The iris dominates, but it has a woody and aloof side to it, with the mimosa greener that expected - restrained mimosa leaf with a more discreet sweetness so to speak more than the blossomy in-your-face sweetness.
The drydown with the added orris and champac emphasises the woodsy/spicy/earthy side of this composition, never overwhelmingly floral.
The performance delivers moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
A spring scent with an interesting take on floral characteristics in general, but the drawback is a certain lack of intensity and richness. A good fragrance for those who only want a lighter and less directly floral scent, a 'floral-lite' so to speak. 2.75/5.
The opening blast introduces the core of this creation in the first moments: leather and incense.
The leather is that if a freshly polished shoe - I sampled is after applying Saphir to my shoes and the scent was a seamless continuation of my morning activity. The incense is darkish but not brooding or somber. I can see the similarity with Cuir Ottoman; Knize 10 has much more gasoline, TF's Tuscan Leather is heavier and a bit sweeter and Anubis has a dark lavender undertones that singles it out amongst the leather crowd.
The other component that develops in the drydown is a fairly well done saffron - unusually dark with a touch of rooty earthiness - just a touch; this is not a brighter saffron à la Sultan Safran. Flowery hints - immortelle mainly - come and go, but the leather remains until the end.
And this end does not come soon: moderate sillage, very good projection and the longevity - sixteen long hours - this is truly tremendous staying power!
Indeed a nice and powerful olfactory winter warmer, well executed albeit not a beacon of creativity. Still - a good scent. 3.25/5.
As far as the top notes are concerned, the tobacco is fairly week, quite transient and rather nondescript, whilst the rose impression is much more interesting and stronger. It is not a very dark rose, and not very sweet either.
After the first half of the development the character changes drastically. The rose fades, and a somewhat tart and fairly salty ambergris evolves to become dominant, supported by a dried-grass aroma with a mossy hint. The change of character is thorough and enduring. Towards the end a sweetish honeyed-musky impression forms the coda in this composition.
The performance is very good, with moderate sillage, good projection and an excellent longevity of fourteen hours on my skin
And interesting two-phase spring scent, with the main proviso being that most of the notes remain a bit dull and flat on my skin. Still, pleasant enough. 3/5
During the first moments of the opening stage one could be forgiven to believe that this is heading into a floral direction. There is a dirty and darkish jasmin background than allows a lovely carnation to shine, with a rose and whiffs of lilac.
This initial second are treacherous, for nigh immediately a styrax-patchouli duet develops and takes over the plot. It is a spicy and leathery pairing, dark with musky and civery undertones and castoreum nuances added in. The patchouli is crisp with an edge, but not exceedingly harsh - this is no Purple Patchouli.
At times a slightly powdery sweetness is present, and towards the later stages an oakmoss impression emerges. This oakmoss is quite well done, but is lack natural liveliness; more the result of an arithmetic olfactory than an inspiredly creative injection of inspiration.
The performance is powerhouse material on my skin: strong projection, excellent projection and a gargantuan fifteen hours on my skin.
A good winter leather/spicy winter scent, not too harsh, than is well-made but a bit following trodden paths. A good technical implementation though, and overall a nice creation. 3.25/5.
From the beginning a slightly boozy leather impression meets my olfactory organ. Initially purely a soft, new nappa impression, it is less dark and harsh than Cuir Ottoman; more maroquinerie than shoes or leather seats in cars. Compared to the vintage Kölnish Juchten it is significantly stronger and more intensive. Soon, however, a gasoline impression emerges, and here it is a bit reminiscent of Knize Ten but much softer and gentler, maybe more the Golden Edition than the original - more Cuiron than K10. At times smoky moments occur, and times ambery facets are evident, but it is never harshly burnt. A restrained saffron-based undertone in the drydown has a softening effect, smoothing it around the edges. A nice iris with hints of labdanum and whiffs of spice give it additional nuances.
The later stages see a tonka impression adds a sweet component that remains fairly discreet. White musks lead towards the final stage.
The performance is nigh-stellar, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and an astounding fourteen hours of longevity on my skin. Brilliant.
This follows in the footsteps of illustrious predecessors, but it is a very good leather rendition; a clean, restrained but rich leather with a well-maintained balance between light clean wallet and darker car-leather notes. Composed of high-quality ingredients, this is a very impressive leather indeed. 3.75/5.
On my skin the initial impression is floral - mainly ylang-ylang and lilac, and the ylang-ylang soon takes over. The combination works very well, and an added richness is provided by a lovely cinnamon.
In the drydown a very pleasant vanilla arises, but later on it turns harsher and edgier. There is styrax evident in the mix, as is a strong benzoin note, and this interplay constitutes the core theme of the base notes. At times a nigh oud-dy hint comes up, whilst on other occasion I reminders of an oak-mossy nature, made smoother by the vanilla note.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and the longevity and amazing fifteen hours.
Made of good-quality ingredients and well-blended, this is an autumnal-wintery scent with a crispy edge. 3.25/5.
Intriguing in its opening; the patchouli comes in quite early, which is unusual; it is accompanied by a fairly clean vetiver that adds a brighter note, as it is a vetiver lacking significant earthiness, at least initially.
A floral interlude in the drydown, mainly base on a pleasant geranium impression, leads to an equally interesting base: dried summer grass with almonds adding sweetness, the patchouli now darker and adding a nigh oak-mossy edge, with a gentle whiff of fresh blonde Virginia tobacco added in towards the end.
Performance is limited on my skin with soft sillage,
Limited projection but nonetheless a satisfactory longevity of seven hours on my skin.
This scent is pleasant in spring, a great concept well executed but more a skin scent on me - good for the office. 3/5.
A warm but bright vanilla core accompanied by a sidekick of jasmine and lavender, but the latter are clearly accompaniment - the vanilla rules. Similarly, in the drydown a slightly sweet mildly honeyed spiciness appears that is never more than a supportive orchestra to the vanilla soloist. The ingredients are classic indeed.
The sillage is soft, the projection adequate and the longevity two hours - but bearing in mind that I only use the After Shave that is not too bad. And given the affordability too.
A simple, classic, straightforward down-to-earth delightful vanilla in a no-nonsense plastic flâcon de luxe supreme that characteristic for Pinaud Clubman. My positive score is evidently not based on a sexy and seductive luxuriating crystal packaging. 3/5.
This is a spicy incense opening, with incense combined with labdanum, benzoin and clove to form this delightful opening - warm and comforting with a bite of spice. In the drydown a slightly boozy angelica is added, but of particular noteworthiness is a birch tar that is very subdued, but otherwise well made.
In the base notes other woody tones emerge, especially cedar, and gradually the spiciness rescinds and the wood notes fade away.
The sillage is soft to moderate, the projection all right, and the longevity and excellent ten hours.
The main proviso with this delightful wintery scent is the limited projection that makes it into a skin scent very soon, in spite of applying this thick and viscous Eau de Perfume rather generously. Otherwise it is a great product, composed of top-quality ingredients and very beautifully blended. 3.75/5.
Lavender, clary sage, and woodsy tones and coniferous woodsy notes blend into an impression of being outdoors in the woods at the edge of a clearing, where herbs and a light, bright mossy notes greet you - beautiful! Whilst moments of labdanum and coumarin give it a deeper and slightly darker edge, it had added complexity with at times a peaty whiff presenting itself. An environment for wearing a tweed jacket maybe.
In the later drydown a slightly boozy transformation in the direction of incense and spice occurs, but this is a gentle spice, with a slightly sweetish tonka adding depth and richness. Still, this spiciness is discrete, more a touch of spice than a spoonful of it. In the base a light musky note is added, which together with some guaiacum develops towards the end.
The performance gives moderate sillage, adequate projection and about nine hours of longevity on my skin.
This is beautifully made of top-class ingredients and very well blended. The only drawback on my skin is a comparably limited projection; after the first thirty minutes it essentially becomes a skin scent, in spite of applying copious amounts - good for spring in the office setting. Otherwise a delight on my skin. 3.75/5
Not so much pure chocolate, but cocoa that is mixed with nutmeg and a generous layer of spice, predominantly a dark pepper with a good lashing of garlic and some labdanum on top - a soft and tasty opening blast with a comforting undertone. Lovely, and at times whiffs of discreetly earthy bitterness give it a nigh O'Driu-esque character.
The drydown is maintaining the initial direction, but adds a resinous-sweetishly honeyed fruity impression, which divulges a good caramel note - a slightly gourmand-ish overtone that is enhanced by a perfectly placed addition of a mildly boozy vanilla, but being never heavy or cloying. On the contrary, one of the impressive features of this creation is the perfect balance between richness and slimness of this composition.
He base adds a darkish musk with a balsamic-boozy character that gently fades out.
The performance is impressive with strong sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
Whilst this is no overpowering chocoholic heaven, it displays a sophisticatedly integrated cocoa creation with spiciness and sweet notes well very blended whilst maintaining good structure. The natural quality of the ingredients is very high in this delicious winter warmer. 4/5.
This is an intriguingly beautiful opening, consisting of a mix of green notes and a floral basket, with the latter becoming stronger the further to drydown progresses. The green notes include grassy undercurrents with a bright, light moss superimposed; this is a light and bright moss without any of the darker crisp and harsh sharpness that characterised this ingredient in some other scents.
The floral notes a dominated by lavender, jasmine, hyacinth and a somewhat nonspecific rose, but all of these are friendly and bright and blend in very well with the green constituents of this composition.
Later on a shift towards a grapefruity note with an admixed bright vetiver shifts it towards summery citrus freshness; this last until the base when benzoin together with a white musk contribution let it finish on a slightly fuller note, without in any way being heavy or sharp; the musk is more on the restrained side.
The performance is excellent with moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
A beautiful creation; I am especially impressed with the impeccable blending and the very impressive natural quality of the ingredients. A summer delight full of creative twists. This house is impressive. 4/5.
The fresh-fruity opening is based on a bergamot base, with rhubarb and a bitter orange giving a restrainedly pleasant freshness. Not a blast, more a breeze. The drydown is signaled by a turn towards the floral, but these floral notes are overall fairly bland and unimpressive, with the exception of a medium-brightish rose. Hints of cardamom remain too ephemeral and too much in the background to really influence the overall development significantly.
The base is actually a tad more interesting, with an agreeable tea impression mixed with a very middle-of-the road vetiver and a rather generic wood component.
The performance is characterised by moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity.
Not a strong, passionate composition, more tepid,
quite pleasant in spring and overall restrained. Like a cool English summer day.
Neutral? Positive score? Somewhere in between, but the reasonable performance and some bright spots in the top as well as in the base notes pushes it across the line - just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
The opening mixes green violet leaves with Japanese green jasmine tea in quite a pleasant manner. The tea note is not strong and more in the background.
The drydown develops a subtle vanilla impression that is a far cry from the usual heavier versions. Towards the end a nonspecific wood note develops that smacks of generic mediocrity.
The sillage is moderate, the projection all right and the longevity over six hours on my skin.
Good in spring with a reasonable, albeit after a while unexciting jasmine tea impression and with a colourless development in the later stages. 2.75/5
This starts with a warm note, combining cardamom, anise and hints of cinnamon in a pleasant fashion. The drydown attempts to add white floral undertones, but these never really develop satisfactorily on my skin. A hint of mimosa is appearing at times, but there definitely more convincing mimosa creations around, like, for instance, Molinard's take on mimosa.
The base is the least enticing part, a nondescript synthetic patchouli-woodsy mix that is rather generic in nature.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good except in the base, and the longevity is five hours.
Another agreeable start that fizzles out in the drydown and base. Not bad but not memorable either. 2.75/5
The opening blast is very standard, but pleasant, with the freshness off the bergamot aligning well with a cardamom; soon cinnamon with whiffs of a very discrete tonka adds smoothness. After the first couple of hours a very dull and mediocre woodsiness takes over and remains the sole component in the base notes.
No Guerlinade here.
The performance is not thrilling, with moderate sillage, limited projection and four hours of longevity on my skin, the last two of which are forgettable indeed.
Pleasant for spring initially, then a disappointment. 2.75/5.
A sweetish-synthetic concoction straight from the lab, atm times attempting a violet impression. A base with an fruity-musky-ambery finale.
A great example of an ultra-generic product - no individuality attached to it. The Gold version is a bit better - one one of the examples where a flanker is better than the original. 1.5/5
You want Angel - consider Mugler.
The opening combines the freshness of the bergamot with heliotrope, and soon a floral bouquet develops: mainly jasmine, hints of oleander, a generous contribution by a geranium that is actually very well done, and a somewhat nondescript rose as a background. This phase is a touch sweet.
After the first third of the development we get down to the hearty bits: a boozy and woodsy tobacco note evolves, a non-intrusively sweet tobacco that is a bit on the mediocrely flavoured side, think Erinmore with extra lashings of tonka. It is less rich and sumptuous than Tobacco Vanilla and more restrained and elegant. The benzoin-loaded gingery undertone provides glimpses of crispness.
The perfomance is splendid, with fairly strong sillage, excellent projection and a wonderful fifteen hours of longevity on my skin.
Constantly evolving, this is a nice autumnal scent whose best parts are in the base notes - quite unusual these days. The combinations are on the traditional side following the well-trodden path, but the ingredients are very well blended. 3.25/5.
The opening displays a pleasant freshness, but it is not a truly refreshing blast, more a restrainedly refreshing application of the petitgrain and the bergamot. A very pleasant opening.
The drydown is trying to switch to a floral side, but the rose is not particularly exciting as are the jasmine and the occasional white floral whiffs I get; only the ylang-ylang develops satisfactorily in my skin.
The base notes are again a bit more interesting. The galbanum/cinnamon combination emerging now is given a whiff of gentle sharpness by the patchouli. There is a perfunctory musky note at the ends that reeks of mediocrity.
The performance is one of its fortes: moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
Overall this is a nice scent for cooler summer days with weaker and less convincing heart notes. It teeters between neutral and positive, but the decent performance and the delightful opening pushes it - just - across the line.
As far as its fetish value is concerned, it is not going to replace anything in my rotation and it has no special powers - apart from overheating my credit card. 3/5.
A dense, rich and boozy woodsy note, with an overarching sweet and fairly mild tobacco impression that reminds me of the rum- or bourbon-soaked flavoured cigars one could buy in Texas many years ago. It is a sweet tobacco without harshness and minimal smokiness.
The drydown adds hints of frankincense that remain in the. Background on my skin, and a developing intense dark glowing amber gradually move into the foreground. The jasmine develops towards the end, clearly present but merging gradually with the dominant amber impression.
As far as the perfomance is concerned Therebis nothing to complain about: strongish sillage, very impressive projection and an even more impressive sensational longevity of sixteen hours - absolutely enormous.
This is a gorgeous intensive wintery creation, exceedingly well blended of high-quality natural ingredients, whose only proviso is the slow and at times too sluggish development, but with patience one is rewarded here. Overall a very impressive scent. 3.75/5
The fresh citrus/lemon/ orange opening is modulated by a bergamot undertone; and this whole mix receives a slightly harsh edge by the early addition of a tannin-prominent leather add-on. The result is a freshness with a lovely twist and not your traditional citrus top note.
The drydown shows a deeper, softer side of this creation, mainly driven by cinnamon sweetness and a spicy undertone that at times morphs into an incense impression. A floral sideline - carnation mainly - remains feeble in my skin, and soon the base notes with their musky fairly smooth and somber patchouli take over until the end, but the patchouli develops a crispy edge that adds a fresh-ish touch in the final hour.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity - unexpected given the citrus opening - is a marvelous fourteen hours on my skin.
A delightful, quite creative take on the citrus+ theme, well blended and performing exceptionally well. 3.75/5.
The top notes are dominated be a fairly bright aroma of leather, new and only lightly tannin-soaked suede, more a handbag that shoe leather. This leather has very gently smoky undertone and sports occasional transient whiffs of a faint gasoline note, the likes of which has been a component in the much heavier classic leather compositions. Like Knize No 10. In comparison, this is leather ultra-lite.
Later in the drydown the leather bones a touch more woodsy-raisinous, and a sweetish aroma develops, with anise, custard/ creme bavarois and a vanilla bent, with lashings of benzoin and castoreum providing additional complexity. This sweetish concoction is not ultra-titillating, but interesting enough to see me through to the end.
The perfomance is brilliant; I get fairly strong sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous sixteen hours of longevity in my skin - with admittedly generous application.
Overall a delightful suede/leather scent for autumn that is well blended and definitely worthy of a leather-lover's attention. 3.5/5.