Reviews by rbaker

    Showing 61 to 90 of 895.
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    Aquaman by Rochas

    The grapefruit-eucalyptus opening is gently fresh, and mixed with coriander very soon. The drydown tries to be floral but remains rather bland, yet the base with its cedar tones intermingled with a pleasant cardamom is a bit more convincing. This scent does not deny its synthetic character but it is quite well made overall. Decent silage and projection and, surprisingly for such an aquatic composition, over nine hours of longevity.

    16 May, 2014

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    Mémoire d'Homme by Nina Ricci

    On my skin the opening in dominated by the citrus-grapefruita blast, which soon is enriched by an elegant ginger note that is pleasantly unobtrusive. In the drydown I get a touch of vetiver, but dominating are wood notes that, in contrast to the nice top notes I find to be a bit too generic. A discrete, restrained scent, simple, but with an excellent longevity of around nine hours.

    15 May, 2014

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    Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe by Cartier

    The opening of coriander, mint, labdanum and mandarin is gently freshening and warm, with lavender and an extremely smooth and soft patchouli added in the drydown. Delightful. A gentle green mossy component signals the begin of the base, where a lovely exotic wood aroma is added. Very soft, smooth with the mint adding subtle freshness. Less spicy than the original, this is - not unusual for Cartier - another case where I prefer the flanker to the original. Good silage and very good projection, with over ten hours of longevity. Great for warmer days in autumn.

    14 May, 2014

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    Obsession Night for Men by Calvin Klein

    The pear-cardamom opening is pleasant albeit very straightforward yet not without some originality. The drydown has hints of mild freshness, with a very soft patchouli evolving into a vanilla base. Synthetic but quite well done. Good silage, excellent projection and over twelve hours of longevity - this very good performance has it - just - achieve a positive rating.

    13 May, 2014

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    Balafre Brun by Lancôme

    The slightly boozy opening blast is a stunner: bergamot and neroli with herbal tones, mainly oregano and clary sage, underlined by a touch of herbal tea. In the middle the green herbal theme continues with lavender and carnation added. The base - truly brun - is gorgeous again, centered around wood notes like pine and cedar, on the background of a soft oakmoss. A rich, deep autumnal office scent of high-quality ingredients, extremely well blended with excellent silage and projection. Longevity is a brilliant ten hours. One of Lancome's masterpieces and my personal favourite amongst the Balafre trio.

    12 May, 2014

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    Boss Sport by Hugo Boss

    The opening blast is brilliant with its citrus-bergamot-juniper berry and later jasmine - a stunning opener. The middle phase adds herbal notes, mainly clary sage and tarragon, and floral undertones: I get geranium, and whiffs of rose and carnation. The base starts with woodsy impressions and a bit of a soft amber note, and about half-way through the voyage the musk takes over, paired by patchouli. This is a somewhat dirty but not too faecaloid note, a bit like Creed's Orange Spice without the orange but leaner, and lingers for ages. Very good silage and projection, with an astounding longevity of around eleven hours. One of the few convincing Sports flankers, although the base really has nothing to do with sports, apart from country sports.

    11th May, 2014

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    Suffolk Lavender by Shay & Blue

    Lavender is the name of this game The opening blast of lavender and melon is just delightful in its creative simplicity. The drydown keeps the lavender but adds a gentle smokiness. The base - yes, there is still some lavender left - adds pine notes and a light white musky impression. Whilst pine and lavender are a very traditional duo, this is overall quite a contemporaneous and bright lavender scent, more a spring fragrance. Very good silage, excellent projection, and in my skin a longevity of nearly eight hours. A modern take on lavender, superbly blended and highly recommended.

    10th May, 2014

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    Amber Rose by Shay & Blue

    The rose in the opening is pleasant, but the drydown remains bland on my skin - I can't imagine this alleged dulce de leche will find too many enthusiasts in Argentina - I find it a bit dull, as I do the light woodsy base. Limited silage and projection with four hours of longevity.
    Not bad at all as far as quality and overall impression are concerned, but not particularly good either.

    10th May, 2014

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    Indigo by Gant USA

    The opening with its bergamot, citrus and orris is a tad unexciting, and followed by a drydown with cumin, woodsy notes and some clove hints. The base is very generic and a light synthetic musk with a hint of sweetness is what I get. Very dull, not as such unpleasant, with adequate silage and projection. The main forte of this scent is the excellent longevity of nearly nine hours.

    10th May, 2014

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    V pour Homme by Valentino

    Orange and bergamot are nicely balanced by a gentle pepper contrast. Green and floral notes are added innthe middle phase, which is a tad flat and dull, but this scents really starts to shine in the base, with ambrette, sandal, cumin and a delicious mild and not-too-sweet tonka combined with a light white musk. This is a delightful base that commences about five hours into the development on my skin. The base notes very gradually fade out over many hours and always retain their beautiful balance. Silage and projection are good, and the overall longevity is exceptional at about thirteen hours, confirming a positive score in spite of the weaker middle phase. Great in spring or autumn or even warmer winter days.

    09 May, 2014

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    Relax by Davidoff

    The green-fresh bregamot-citrus-lavender-mint opening blast gains a twist with a good tarragon dose -traditional with a novel touch and beautiful. The drydown is a patchouli-jasmine-dominated floral phase that is pleasant, but on my skin it lacks the radiance of the top notes. This is all forgotten when this scent develops further towards the base, where anise, a smooth soft amber and tonka mix with a caramel-like undertone, and a soft suede adds a nice truly relaxing finish. This smooth base - we are now six hours into the life of Relax - eventually gains a typical barbershop character, smooth, creamy and as relaxing as a shave in a barbershop. This splendid turn stays on for another ten hours at least - that make an astounding total longevity of over fifteen hours, with good silage and projection. Overall this is one of Davidoff's finest.

    08 May, 2014

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    Fendi for Men by Fendi

    The opening with its citrus freshness that is very gently peppered is very pleasant. The drydown is mainly floral with jasmine, patchouli and violet notes mixed with the subtle aroma of Japanese sencha. Then I get a subtle but creamy amber with whiffs of anise and even cinnamon impressions and mildly spicy undertones. On my skin this is always a very restrained scent, but smoothly blended and with moments of originality. Limited silage and projection, bit longevity is good at six hours. Good for the office in spring.

    07 May, 2014

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    Sport Fragrance by Etienne Aigner

    The fresh green lemon-citrus opening is very nice and leads into to floral-coniferous drydown; I mainly get geranium, carnation, pine and a delightful jasmine. The base is richer without losing the green-wood components, and cedar with patchouli and touches of vanilla and oak moss are present. Very well made, and a sports flanker of unusual high quality and unusually classic but complex nature. I get three hours of longevity.

    03 May, 2014

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    Etienne Aigner No. 2 by Etienne Aigner

    Citrus, bergamot, clary sage and then lavender - can an opening more traditional? On me the drydown mainly brings out geranium, fern and cedar, pleasantly balanced with still freshness present due to added vetiver. In the base his becomes seriously richer based on tonka, labdanum, a light oakmoss and a hint of musk. Well crafted and versatile, this is less brilliant than its original predecessor, but for a while I always enjoyed its easygoing versatility. Good silage and projection with a longevity of four hours.

    03 May, 2014

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    Etienne Aigner by Etienne Aigner

    This has always been a masterpiece.
    The opening is traditional initially, with citrus-bergamot being given a green touch herbal notes. The dryown with galbanum mixes flowery notes and a very nice jasmine with wood notes and a smooth patchouli. The base is remarkable in it's attempt to marry classic fougère oakmoss with amber, tonka and a very convincing soft suede leather note. It uses a broad variety of traditional components with a base whose depth and richness provide a very special experience. The quality of the components cannot be fated, the blending is very well done, and silage and projection are very good. I get about five hours if longevity. In combining a classic fresh opening with an unusually variegated amber-leather base this scent was ahead of it's time.

    03 May, 2014

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    Aigner No. 1 by Etienne Aigner

    The bergamot with artemisia and a slightly peppery note is pleasant and attractive. In the drydown a floral-gingery mix supervenes, which adds woodsy tones in the base. Whilst the top notes are not particularly brilliant, they are well made, but the later stages come out in quite a mediocre and lackluster fashion on my skin. It has medium silage and projection, with only two hours of longevity on my skin.

    01st May, 2014

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    1000 by Jean Patou

    The vintage perfume:
    A dark green bergamot, jasmine and mandarin mix opens, a green and saturated opening. The drydown has osmanthus included, on a background of a dark rose and other florals. The base is classic chypre with strong and rich patchouli and an oakmoss that is smooth on my skin. The dark civet is the backbone of the base; is is heavy and full. A luscious, voluptuous dark traditional chypre that is beautifully crafted, with excellent silage and projection and a longevity of seven hours.
    The new version is less rich and less complex, but still very impressive.

    30th April, 2014

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    Joy by Jean Patou

    Reviewing the vintage perfume:
    The opening is based on a fresh peach top note that is combined with a strong aldehyde component, the latter not unlike Chanel's No 5 in some aspects. The drydown is a beautifully green and rich floral mix, with jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and tuberose dominating on my skin, with a pleasant rose added later on. The woodsy base is the underpinning for a dark musk, which gains a touch of an animalistic edge by added civet, but on me really only a touch; it is truly a floral-aldehyd scent in essence. The silage is excellent and the projection good, and I get about five hours of longevity. Beautifully blended without smoothing out the different constituents of this composition too much, it is supremely crafted, traditional and with depth. One of Patou's classic.

    28 April, 2014

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    Story by Paul Smith

    The opening blast is a real beauty: green saturated tones of ivy leaves and jasmine and a touch of spice blend perfectly with a bergamot-citrus mix; the result is exceedingly well balanced. In the drydown I get a bit of clary sage, soon followed by a very soft base composed of amber with cedar and a very light white musk. The green-fresh-dark components are very well balanced without losing structure, and the quality of the complement is convincing in quality. On the performance side the silage is adequate and the projection excellent. I get a longevity of six hours. Great on a cool spring day, this in one of my favourites from Paul Smith - a story I am very happy to listen to.

    26 April, 2014

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    Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

    Beautiful is the opening, with a green-citrus core that is made more colourful by carnation and a touch of coriander. Very well blended and very harmonious, this is not a blast, it is rich but not loud. The drydiwn adds cinnamon, but from now on is remains very close to my skin. In the base touches of cedar, patchouli and vetiver make appearances, but by now the projection is very limited. Overall hpugh a very well blended and structured composition, with an overall longevity of six hours. This is one of those examples where I find a flanker -Vert Anis - to be better than this original, the latter being a good scent already.

    25 April, 2014

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    Balafre by Lancôme

    The opening is absolutely perfect, with green notes, bergamot, lavender, neroli and a hint of oregano forming a wonderful mix. Later wood notes, pine and cypress mainly on my skin, softened by flowery components - geranium and carnation - dominate the middle phase, all reminiscences of Southern French Mediterranean gardens in bloom. Delicious. Here is reminds me a bit of Grès' Monsieur, and also of the latter's Cabaret. In the base I mainly get a very soft amber, with gentle musk and mossy undertones. The development from one phase to the next is always interesting, and
    the whole is an extremely well-blended scent that never looses structure. Excellent silage and projection with six hours of longevity on me. A supreme Loncôme classic for autumnal days.

    24 April, 2014

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    LouLou by Cacharel

    This starts with an orangey-floral mix, mainly jasmine, lily and mimosa -the latter in the background- and this mixes very well indeed. It is a floral-fresh impression is given depth with a incense-woody underpinning in the drydown and is very well done. This lasts for several hours, and towards the end a not of tonka-induced sweetness keeps well in the mix. Silage and projection are very good, and the longevity is an acceptable six hours. A good spring scent.

    23 April, 2014

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    Just Me for Men by Paris Hilton

    The initial citrus impact is quite gentle, and soon develops notions of a mild green with a touch of ozonic notes and with some lotus, the latter appearing a bit contrived in this context. The drydown introduces some woodsy notes that are a bit too generic, with a soft patchouli that us hardly developing on my skin. Silage and projection are limited, but the longevity is quite good at about five hours, although quite faint after the first two. In summary, this is a fresh quite nice scent that not bad at all, albeit a tad generic nut not without the attempt of a twist. Overall a neutral score

    23 April, 2014

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    Must de Cartier by Cartier

    The citrus-galbanum in the opening blends soon with a nice dark-green floral mix; I get mainly nice jasmine and a less convincing rose, but overall it is a nice blend, that is given a touch of musky spiciness further in the drydown. The hopes are high, but, alas, is soon collapses to remain very close to my skin from then on. The base sees a rather bland vanilla added, and the rest of the development is rather generic and faint, with a total longevity of about five hours on me. This is not bad, but not more than neutral.

    22 April, 2014

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    Life Essence by Fendi

    The orange-bergamot citrus opening is pleasantly softened with coriander, and then a floral component, on me, mainly geranium with a bit of jasmine, softens it. A pleasant start, but soon it collapses and it remains an extremely faint skin scent that, however, is just noticeable for up to a respectable seven hours. The sandal notes that is added later on is not convincing and too generic, and the slightly spicy cedar isn't either. The idea is goods: a citrus-wood combination with an interesting twist, but the execution is suboptimal as far as my skin reaction is concerned.

    22 April, 2014

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    Incanto by Salvatore Ferragamo

    The plummy peach opening is associated with a gentle peppery background. In the more floral drydown I get mainly lily and jasmine, not sweet and fairly well balanced. There is a sandalwood in the base that is not really very convincing my skin, with a faint ambergris towards the end. Overall this is not bad, not too blatantly synthetic and the opening is quite nice. The middle and end phases, however are not developing well on me, with about four hours of longevity. In the end I remain impartial to this scent.

    22 April, 2014

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    Armani Eau de Nuit by Giorgio Armani

    A slightly spicy bergamot gives way to a blandly synthetic cardomon, which develops into an ultra-generic drydown of wood and vanilla. The longevity of about three hours is not impressive either. One would expect better from GA.

    21st April, 2014

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    Tokyo by Kenzo

    The initial citrus-ginger blast is nice, joined by green tea and mate, a sort of tea party. In the drydown a light pepper with a woodsy base are a bit too average, and it collapses to be very close to my skin after a couple of hours. Total longevity is about four hours. Not bad but nothing special.

    12 April, 2014

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    Les Nombres d'Or - Ambre by Mona di Orio

    Right from the start I get a delightful amber note with a benzoin component, rich and rounded but not too dark on my skin. A resinous balsamic note with cedar is added in the drydown without disturbing the roundedness of this composition. After about four hours of very good silage and projection it starts to fade, turning into a vanilla based but not too sweet powdery scent, which is quite fresh and contemporaneous. It comes and goes, at times seems to have disappeared just to rise again and so forth. The total longevity is a splendid twelve hours, although the last half of this time it is a powdery skin scent. A good and satisfying amber composition perfect for early autumn.

    11th April, 2014

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    Programme Homme by Lancôme

    The opening blast is a splendid rendering of a boozy citrus-basil burst that soon is joined by a divine lavender - traditional but oh so beautifully done! The traditional fougère theme continues with the habitual floral follow-on, here a delightful geranium, with a beautifully balanced oakmoss that is more on the dark and mellow side. Olibanum and labdanum make a herbal-green base note that tapers very gradually. Top-level quality ingredients are blended masterfully, with great silage and very good projection. A mega-astounding longevity monster that lasts fifteen hours on my skin in total! Absolutely amazing. Less dark than sagamore, a touch more elegant than dunhill's otherwise not dissimilar Blend 30, this is one of my autumn favourites.

    10th April, 2014

    Showing 61 to 90 of 895.