A light orange blossom with a dominat lily-of-the-valley greet me in the opening phase. It sounds uninspired, but the lily-of-the-valley is actually quite interesting, as it lacks the customary sweetness usually inherent in this note - a dry version on my skin of a usually sweet note. And this unusually unsweetened lily-of-the-valley is convincing for the first couple of hours. Then a somewhat unexciting wood impression develops, and the liky-of-the valley fades out.
The sillage is soft, the projection all right, and I get six hours of longevity on my skin. A pleasant spring scent and worth trying if one likes lily-of-the-valley but dislikes the sweetness is usually entails. Just barely a positive score - the unexciting drydown is the main weakness of this creation. 3/5
The jasmine is present from the beginning, with a white floral undertone, mainly freesia mixed in. The drydown sees ambrox added, and the jasmine, which was restrained initially, gains in colour and intensity with time.
There is no well-defined base on my skin, and the jasmine stays in the foreground until the end. It is never really sweet. As far as the performance is concerned, there is soft sillage, limited projection and six hours of longevity on me.
Whilst this is indubitably an agreeable spring scent with at times quite a nice jasmine developing, overall it remains a bit lackluster otherwise. For jasmine lovers looking for a restrained version, this is worth a try.
Citrus with green notes and a woodsy impression added in the drydown. A classic combination but remaining a bit dull on my skin compared to some other D R Harris colognes on my skin.
Sillage is soft on me, the projection poor with three hours of longevity. For the lover of such a cologne it may be worth trying. 2.75/5
An orange-laden opening phase, and mainly orange it remains with over time a green fern impression being combined with it. Fresh, summery, well done and refreshing: a classic summer cologne.
With moderate sillage and adequate projection, the four hours of longevity are respectable for such a citrus-heavy scent. 3.25/5
The opening - more a breeze than a blast - is mainly aquatic, with hints of fresh seaweed and green notes, mainly sage, added in. The green side lasts well into the drydown, and a somewhat ninspecific woodsy impression combines with it.
The base does not change very much in my skin, apart from the green side receding and a somewhat bland white musk appearing towards the end. I get soft sillage, quite weak projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
A nice but at times a touch too watery and too generic on me. 2/5.
The bush-leaf green opening is well balanced by a midly fruity forest berry accord and has an aquatic tilt to it at times. In the drydown I get a pleasant mix of a somewhat restrained rise with a nice hawthorn; the latter is quite well made but does reach the splendid height in hawthorn notes that e.g. Aubépine-Acacia reached. Still, it is a nice drydown.
The case is cedar based, with a somewhat generic moss impression raising up from time to time.
Performance is not bad with moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin. Overall an agreeable spring country scent with a nice and at times original array of notes that are well-blended. 3/5
The opening consists of a mildly boozy saffron that is freshened up a bit by a bergamot side-kick. The drydown introduces a floral bouquet, with jasmine and carnation joined in the foreground on my skin by a lovely, quite bright rose; the latter has depth but is not if the dark and brooding variety in my skin. Soon a pleasant oud appears that is very well executed; whilst being typical and convincing Itnis not one of the heavy ouds; being very balanced it blends in well with the floral notes.
The base is a fairly standard vanilla with wood-amber-musk mix, but it is nicely done and the oud gives it an added ounce of character and variety. The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection nine hours of longevity on my skin.
In an age of a deluge of oud scents, some obvious aromachemical copycats attempt to cash in on this trend, in this case the oud is of a decent quality and intelligently incorporated into the whole. It is great for autumn, a rich scent with depth but less voluptuous than Halfeti for instance. 3.5/5.
The opening blast is an olfactoric onslaught of high levels of complexity: bergamot, citrus notes, a herbal undertone and a nutmeg/saffron note combine to a successful fresh-herbal-oriental prelude: rich and exciting.
The drydown ups the ante, with the star of this composition coming forward: a deep and rich rose, accompanied by white floral impressions, which on my skin mainly consist of lily if the valley. The floral bouquet has some jasmin and violet added, and an gentle overarching but not overwhelming oud adds a woodsy and spicy touch. The floral and the spicy notes are complimenting each other very well.
The base takes a sweeter turn with tonka and cedarwood adding more richness and depth; the cedar is fairly light and without strong pencilshaving componenents. The rose is fading out slowly, with a nice mild and sift amber impression briefly appearing towards the end.
The performance is excellent with strong quite strong sillage, excellent projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
A scent that in its complexity is never too chaotic, is well blended whilst concurrently remaining well structured. A great autumn fragrance, and one of Penhaligon's most convincing releases overnight last few years. 3.75/5
The core note is the rose, a medium-dark but neither heavy nor overly brooding rose on my skin. It is if high quality and very convincing.
Still in the opening ohase an gently peppery incense note is added, and this now is like a dark cloud mixing with the as such very balanced rose, but on me this is still not overwhelmingly dark but retains an admirable balance of lightness, richness and depth. Furthermore, a restrained cinnamon together with a forest berry mix - blackcurrant mainly - provides a fruity undertone, not sweet but resulting in a lovely twist. A classic balance, whilst maintaining a good structure. This is a great rose-centred delight.
As gas as the base is concerned, it does not keep up with the sophisticated and complex first half of this creation. More linear, flatter and mainly an ambroxan impression with a generic light musk and a somewhat pedestrian soft patchouli added in. Fortunately the components of the earlier phase spill over into the base at times, such as to make it more interesting. I do not get any wood note worth mentioning.
The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity.
My conclusion is that this had the potential to become a truly great creation that has been downgraded by its second-rate base notes, but overall it still warrants a positive score. Great in spring or on warmer autumn days. 3.5/5
Instead of plunging deeply into a monofloral intensive opening blast à la Mona di Orio's Carnation, Géranium pour Monsieur pairs the note hat gives it its name - geranium - with a gorgeously refreshing mint note. This is not cheap chewing-gun mint but a natural high quality version, and it blends in perfectly with the lovely geranium impression.
The drydown starts with a rather synthetic sweetish note, but soon a reasonable cinnamon emerges that is quite convincing and not too sweet, and in the base I also get an ambroxan with some styrax. The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection and a longevity of eight hours on my skin.
Whilst the second half is more on the mediocre side, the opening is very nice, summery, fresh and well executed and well blended; the good quality prevents it from sliding into the profane mint range. On the strength of the top notes I am affording it a positive evaluation, but just by the skin of its teeth. In case one does not enjoy the opening notes it probably has little to offer overall. 3/5
The salesperson in the new Malle shop in the Burlington Arcade provided me with a generous sample. It started off with a delightful classic lemon-bergamot mix, a delightful summery dyad to begin with; made of high quality ingredients. In the drydown I get a white-flowery change, with narcissus prominent, but also hints of oleander on my skin.
The base is fresher up again by a nit particularly exciting neroli and a white musk that has a sharpish edge towards the end. The base is the least impressive part of this creation.
The performance is surprisingly good for an, at least initially, citrus-based scent with moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on me.
This clearly aims at the summer cologne market, and in these fragrances the question is always: what happens after the usually nice opening blast? In this case enough to warrant a positive score, albeit but just by the skin of its teeth. At least it does not need to be re-applied every couple of hours like many Eau de Colognes. 3/5
A fairly unique opening: bergamot, jasmine and a backgrounds of saffron. Soon a vanilla arises whose sweetness is present but never too overwhelming and cloying; it is balanced out by a smooth patchouli and a woodsy note. The wood grows stronger over time, but it is rather nonspecific on my skin and the whole base is a tad generic. Aromachemical wood more than natural anyway.
The base also sees a mildly camphoic note added but it never grows strong on me. The performance is good with moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
Overall the first part is quite original and a nicely executed with the vanilla adding a gourmand component. The second part is more mundane and generic, but with the decent performance that all is just enough for a positive score - albeit only just. 3/5
A subtle, fresh but not loud neroli opening sees a white floral undertone added after an hour or so, the nice and bright mix. The stephaniotis - a rarely used note - comes in a bit later on my skin, and in the base a pleasantly subdued white musk is added.
The performance is surprisingly good with soft sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
Overall a restrained summery and bright scent, a bit fragile nearly but not without an original touch. 3/5.
A bergamot-vetiver freshness is what reminds a little bit me of the Eau de Sauvage of yesteryear, but nothing else: the fresh too notes soon turn floral, with geranium and lavender dominating on my skin. So far this is not unpleasamt. The base notes are ambroxan and a very dull patchouli with whiffs of generic woods - one can forget about the base, really.
The performance is all right with moderate sillage good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. Overall pleasant to some extent, very synthetic and boring - in one word: mediocre. Ten years after the release of Dior Homme this one disappoints. 2/5
Like with sjg3839 the similarity with the initial
Impression of the oud flanker was given on my skin. It tilts more towards ambery and is a bit softer and rounder. Not bad as a start.
The middle notes are a somewhat nonspecific wood mix, a but if cedar included, and in the base a rather synthetic-appearing ambergris-patchouli dyad is notes, very gently fading out.
The performance is good with moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. Not bad but not brilliant either.
Opening with a traditional lemon-bergamot mix that reminds me of the original, it soon takes on a greener and woodsier turn. Initially the drydown is characterised by mugwort and a cry soft myrrhe, but a mix of wood impressions - cedar in the foreground - develops moving towards the base notes. Whiffs of a rather bland white musk appear in the last hour too.
Whilst the first part is nicely done, most of the subsequent notes are a tad bland and the cedar also a bit too dull on my skin and unflatteringly laced with benzoin.
The performance - given the first part is citrus- heavy is good, with soft sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin. Overall this as a nice idea to commute the fresh and summery opening of the original with a different, mainly wood-dominated subsequent phase, which has not led to a very exciting flanker on my skin. 2.5/5
Bergamot, a pleasant cucumber and a nice eucalyptus - not the cough mix type but a bit more elegant - and overall quite refreshing scent that soon see a nice artemisia component added to it.
The drydown is traditional, with lavender and a light ambery note. In the base wood notes are dominant, with a fairly nice sandalwood and, most importantly, a guaïac added. This is a nice guaïac, well developed and typical enough to be convincing as a note that is not often used and not easy to realise in a fragrance. In the base there is also a nice mildly medicinal balsamic note that I enjoy. Unlike in many other scents the base keeps up the standard set by the earlier phases of this creation.
The performance is excellent with moderate sillage, good projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin. The wood might represent the paper and the shelves in an old library - maybe there is a connection to the name of this scent. Maybe the oriental balsam hints and Alexandria's ancient library. Otherwise it is well blended whilst keeping good structure and texture. 3/5.
The opening presents with bergamot and an aromatic green note, that seems to be predominantly eucalyptus leave with a slight floral hint. In the drydown the moss comes to the fore, again a very green, light and bright version and without any earthiness or sharpness. This is even softer that Tom Ford's Moss Breches, one of the lighter and brighter of moss fragrances.
On my skin the main addition is a white musk impression, which is quite restrained and not as rich as, for instance, Jovan's version. Overall the Black Collection's Moss is restrained, light, bright and maybe a touch too anaemic and thin.
As far as the performance is concerned, I get soft sillage, limited projection and six hours of longevity. A moss creation with a velvet touch. 2/5.
Where the name conjures up the mysteries of history, there is little of this in this pleasant scent: an orange blast - not from the past but in the opening blast - with soon a pleasant pepper impression joining it, not as part of an incense-style but more the ground-black-pepper version.
The drydown briefly turns a touch floral to then end up in a lightly musky-woodsy base. Pleasant but a tad unexciting.
The performance is very good, with moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin. It is a pleasant, albeit a touch pedestrian, scent. 2.5/5.
A summer opening indeed, lots of grapefruit, no range and mint, very nice and refreshing. In the drydown a green character develops, with a pleasant jasmine, hints of herbal impression, and in the base a light cedar without any pencil-shaving tendencies on my skin.
A good performance with moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin - a good longevity for a largely citrus-based product. Quite a traditional warm weather scent but well blended. 3.5/5
Too notes with vibes of summer: orange and grapefruit with a bit of ISO-E - not bad and the citrus lasts longer that usual.
In the drydown wood is prominent and the citrus recedes. The wood is a mix but not bad, and in the base notes some white musk are present with still residual citrus-brightness remaining.
Good performance: moderate sillage, good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
Good quality of the ingredients is notes, and is the fact that it is well-blended with good structure. 3/5.
Mint, aniseed, whiffs of coriander and incense - are we heading for another wintery Christmas theme scent? Yes and no, the abovementioned aromas point in that direction, yet the white floral drydown - hints of muguet - adds another dimension. A nice dimension.
Further down the line the base becomes a woodsy affair with the incense bending in nicely. The guaiacum in the base is one of the good ones I know, and this is a wood infrequently used, then then not always convincingly.
The performance is nothing short of excellent, with moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin, fading gracefully. A very pleasant cold-weather creation. 3.25/5
A refreshing summery-bright opening main based o petitgrain and orange-citrus that is very nice. Soon a ISO-E vibe is added, but it fits in very well, true to its reputation as a good blending molecule
The base is richer, with white florals blending with white musk. Overall this is well made and convincingly blended
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on me - surprisingly long for such a citrus-petitgrain summer composition. 3.75/5
The opening says vanilla, albeit inititially in the background and gradually stronger; it is perennial in this scent. It is a well balanced and well made vanilla. In the top notes some mixed citrus is added, and in the heart notes lavender comes to the fore.
In the base a white musk impression evolves, and together with the vanilla it gradually fades away - and it fades late and slowly. The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity.
A pleasant albeit a touch unexciting composition, it is only the longevity that stands out - just positive. Nice in autumn. 3/5
The opening that greets me is a bergamot with light woodsy notes with a touch of booziness; it soon becomes close to my skin with a watery and thin jasmine drydown.
The base does not change significantly on my skin, and after the opening blast it remains very close to my skin. Even after liberal application the performance is nothing to write home about: soft sillage with poor projection and four hours of longevity.
Given the title I conclude that the gin it is meant to represent is not a very good one, and even with tonic water in my hand this scent is disappointing. A very light summer scent maybe. 1.5/5
Gentle spices, cardamom, hints of vetiver with dark wintery rose - yes, of course we expect cosy Christmas vibes, maybe some Christkindlmarkt atmosphere. And some of this we get.
On the other hand, the drydown and base have a distinct soothing balsamic undertone, together with a pleasant and soft white musk underpinning. A nice mix that fits the month that gives its name to this scent, but with a slightly different take on the subject so to speak, and beyond the usual stereotypes.
The performance is good, with moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin. A nice winter scent. 3/5
The opening combines and orange blossom charafteristic with a vetiver freshness and a soft and rounded patchouli. Later on a fairly restricted vanilla joins a surprisingly gentle and soft oakmoss, and duo that works together beautifully.
In the base wood is added; this phase is a touch more generic and less convincing, but the overall craftsmanship and blending is done very well.
Sillage is moderate, projection good and the longevity on my skin is nearly eight hours. Nice in spring. 3/5
On my skin the opening comes across as a fruity-fresh opening, with vibes of butyric acid and pineapples with an overarching passionfruit impression. There is a slightly spicy undertone, and whilst this all sounds a bit weird, it is actually a pleasant start. In the drydown there is a turn to the floral, dominated by magnolia and whiffs of oleander; Iike a Mediterranean summer garden.
A tonka note arises later on, with a white musk underpinning that is a touch duller but again pleasant.
The sillage I get is moderate, the projection good, and on my skinny he longevity is seven hours.
Overall this is a pleasant scent, not rivetingly exciting but with a nice twist, bearably it its syntheticness and well executed, and never cloyingly sweet. Nice in spring and early summer. 3/5.
This is a brighter and lighter leather than many others, and on my skin the leather is present straight from the opening blast on. It intermingles with an orange sidekick, and in the drydown sees a rather synthetic and somewhat unexciting rose added. There is an underlying freshness to this leather, which in itself bears the hallmarks of a clean, new, smooth handbag leather - maybe a hint and the handbag maker that owns this fragrance house?
The base adds a woodsy impression that initially is rather generic on me, but towards the end some guaiac in noticeable; and at that stage the wood is very pleasant and the guaiac quite convincing.
The performance is good, with moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin. Bearing the name of this famous Cologne house renowned for fresh summer scents does not do this product justice, as this is a true leather fragrance indeed, with the leather being clean and a touch too synthetically sanitised. Nonetheless, the opening phase of this leather impression is rather nice, and together with its very good longevity this pushes it into the realm of a positive score -just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
The opening proclaims the oriental character of this creation, with a warm amber and a somewhat fruity camphoric-balsamic mix being a touch freshened up by hints of bergamot. The subsequent drydown is benzoin-heavy and adds a nice tonka note that in the base is counterbalanced by woodsy elements and a surprisingly soft and gentle white musky impression.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity is a marvelous twelve hours on my skin.
For the lover of oriental scents that are somewhat unexciting but reliable and versatile; a good winter scent. 3/5.