Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2156
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Orange Blossom by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening blast bombards my nose with a chemical onslaught - an unpleasant one that is - before settling into a fairly nonspecific white floral impression.

Moments reminiscent of a flat orange blossom come and go, but for most of the time I only get a generic floral note of little distinction.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nondescript spring creation that is rather linear and not very exciting or convincing - neither as orange blossom nor as a fragrance in general. This is not Demeter’s finest hour. 2/5
18th December, 2017
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Bronze Goddess Eau de Parfum by Estée Lauder

The opening has a discreetly summery undertone, with a soft bergamot joining a pleasant mandarin and a smooth jasmine to create a nice jasmine; the latter floral blends in nicely with the brighter notes. This is not a full-on refreshing opening though.

The drydown gradually introduces sweeter components, with frangipani is combined with coconut and a well-intergrated vanilla impression; here a subtle backgound aroma is noticeable that reminds me of some of the Piz Buin sunscreens; memories of the sunscreen in the air when walking along the seashore in summer come to mind. At times whiffs of a very lean and contemporary powderiness can also be noted.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant summery beach-evoking scent; in the tradition of Bond No.9’s Fire Island and the likes. A bit dull at times but overall very agreeable. 3/5.
17th December, 2017
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Pink Lemonade by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is a lovely impression of pink lemonade, just that the carbonated fizziness in unpleasantly synthetically chemical. Otherwise the additional touch of lime fits in well.

After about an hour it changes to a nonspecific sweetness with a caramel-like undertone; at times this is closer to a caramel infusion with a flat Chinotto being mixed into the lemonade than to the pure pink lemonade as such.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Altogether this scent for cooler summer days is not all that convincing, but the first impression is quite nice. 2.75/5.
16th December, 2017
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Log Cabin by Demeter Fragrance Library

The first impression is a smooth, sweetish wood scent, with pine predominating and a touch of oak aroma thrown in. No open fireplace in sight at this stage. This lasts for the first half hour or so.

Then, a bit of cedar appears, and, further into the drydown, the smokiness sets in. Initially very restrained and soft, but with time it increases in strength and assumes indeed characteristics of an open fire in a fireplace.

It is never really harsh, and the smokiness never completely overwhelms the wood notes; it is balanced quite nicely.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant autumnal scent, this is not very original and not very complex, but it is executed quite solidly. 3/5.
15th December, 2017
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Peach by Demeter Fragrance Library

The good part

The initial peach impression is lovely. It is a fresh peach, not too mature and hence not very sweet. Well done.

The problem

This nice peach lasts about one minute at the longest.

The rest

After the first minute this composition turns into the most generic, synthetic and dull chemical laboratory concoction. To call it a synthetic fruitiness is overly optimistic. A non-event.

The performance

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

The summary

Does one minute of a positive impression compensate for four hours of negativity? No. Does this one minute justify a neutral score? I am afraid not. 1.75/5.
14th December, 2017
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Linden by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is indeed a credible rendering of the linden fragrance as it is exuded by linden blossoms.

A bit flatter than the originals, this is a fairly restrained floral blossom aroma, of discrete sweetness and not at all heavy. On the contrary, this Demeter is more on the airy and elegant side.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity is six hours on my skin.

Although rather linear in its development, this is a pleasant tree blossom creation. 3.25/5.
13th December, 2017
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Fig Leaf by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening presents what is a decent attempt at fig leaves, but there is also the aroma of the fruit - more the dried fruit than the fresh, green version on my skin. The greenness of the leaves comes out nicely initially, but it gets lost a bit in the later stages of the development of this composition. This all is blended quite nicely.

This Demeter has thus more than one layer to it, and with time they both vary in the ratio of which they contribute to the whole.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on me.

A prima facie agreeable impression of fig leaves, but it is marred by being overly synthetic, and at times unpleasantly so. Still, overall not bad. No fig leaf needed to hide this one. 2.75/5.
12th December, 2017
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Vitória Régia : Flor da Noite by L'Occitane

The is in essence a floral composition. Whilst touches of water lily are are present at times - the name is thus not completely misleading - on my skin this is a white floral mix, with muguet, oleander and peony in the forefront. Occasionally the insertion of a lemony note adds some freshness in the early stages.

Later in the drydown a fruity note developers and mixes with the florals. It is a rather nonspecific fruitiness, but whiffs of lychee are detectable at times. The base adds a white musk that is nothing special but quite well constructed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and m four hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring creation with a tropical undertone and some original touches. 3/5.
11th December, 2017
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Apple Blossom by Demeter Fragrance Library

A floral mix - a mainly floral mix is what I get. It is a very homogenous and pleasant mix, but in all its pleasantness it is a tad generic.

Whiffs of apple come and go at times - apple, not apple blossom that is.

Otherwise there is not much further development on my skin.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on me.

A pleasant but quite unoriginal floral spring scent. 2.75/5.
10th December, 2017
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Champagne Brut by Demeter Fragrance Library

A sweetish, slightly fizzy opening blast expresses a fruity side with a certain booziness. This is at the core of this creation.

There are two things this product nothing to do with:

(1) Champagne - the drink that is. There is neither even only a hint of Chardonnay is this mix, nor any trace of Pinot Noir or of any other grape used in Champagne, nor of any other grape usually used in an sparkling wine. Maybe to mimic the blandest of the blandest Moscatos was the aim of this Demeter, but even this was not achieved successfully.

(2) Brut. This sweet soup is not dry at all even by the boldest stretch of imagination. A ridiculous name.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and I get a longevity of nine hours on my skin.

The performance of this spring creation is very good, but otherwise this generic chemical fluid with its bland sweetness and synthetic fruitiness has no redeeming features at all. 1.75/5.
09th December, 2017
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Dark Chocolate by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is an opening that is clearly dark chocolate, nothing but dark chocolate. Not very bitter, rich, well done. Gourmand galore!

Then second half looses a bit in intensity and in chocolate-i-ness, and an unfortunate chemical undertone develops. Still, these is enough chocolate re-emerging towards the end.

The performance is phenomenal: strong sillage, excellent projection and thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A very simple and straightforward autumn gourmand that is quite nice overall. 3.25/5.
08th December, 2017
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Bourbon by Demeter Fragrance Library

The super-boozy opening blast has indeed some characteristics of Bourbon - the aroma of a basic Bourbon; this is no Maker’s Mark but not bad. This lasts for about five minutes.

The rest is a generic boozy - or later less so - with an occasional nonspecific fruitiness in the backgound. Very nonspecific.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and two hours of total longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent exhibiting five decent minutes. The performance is poor. The rest is silence. 2.5/5.
07th December, 2017
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Frozen Margarita by Demeter Fragrance Library

The first phase is characterised by a strong boozy fizziness, which rather nonspecific and annoyingly synthetic. A icy fizziness straight from a chemical laboratory.

After a while this concoction finally develops some more interesting features: the long-awaited lime-juice aroma develops, as does a vague alholic notion that might represent a rather basic tequila. I am waiting - in vain - for hints of Cointreau, or for any Triple Sec for that matter.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A mix for cooler summer days; a boozy lime juice of limited distinction. 2.5/5.
06th December, 2017
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Gingerale by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is a pleasant opening that has some features of ginger ale: the ginger ale aroma, the lighter, modern version but a bit sweeter that Canada’s Dry or Schweppes initially.

After a while the fizz gets stronger and towards the end is so dominant that it is a bit too intensive, overwhelming the actual ginger ale impression.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Agreeable initially, then a bit too synthetic and overly fizzy. 2.75/5.
05th December, 2017
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Grapefruit Tea by Demeter Fragrance Library

The tea is a restrained Darjeeling style, but with hints of greens tea. It is clearly overwhelmed by the dominant grapefruit note.

This is a sweetish and ripe grapefruit, which is not really the refreshing type - very much unlike Creed’s Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse, for instance.

I get soft sillage, limited projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant albeit weak fruity tea scent for warm spring days. The performance is poor, and the notes are a tad generic. 2.75/5.
04th December, 2017
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Lily of the Valley by Demeter Fragrance Library

The initial stage is a rather generic nonspecific floral impression that never really takes off on my skin. It remains subdued and flat.

During the second half it does not become much stronger, but with time a pleasant lily of the valley develops: with only mild sweetness, the characteristics of this flower are well expressed, with the green touch of the leaves included. Not bad at all and this stage.

I get soft sillage, limited projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent makes a mixed impression, and its synthetic nature is not helping; but eventually it results in moments of pleasant olfactory experiences. 2.75/5.
03rd December, 2017
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Lilac by Demeter Fragrance Library

The light floral note that characterises this Demeter has some lilac characteristic, but it is not a very vivid or intense one, and it is endowed with a sweet undertone. In atmosphere it is more on the bright-ish side.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst not without its charms, this spring monofloral is a bit bland in general, and it is ever so bluntly synthetic in nature. For the lilac-seeker of interest, otherwise on the lower end of mediocrity. 2/5.
02nd December, 2017
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Incense by Demeter Fragrance Library

This incense is soft incense that is based on a slightly sweet resin is note. It lacks any harshness, and i do not get any balsamic or medicinal character. It is more a woody incense concept.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This is quite a pleasant autumnal creation, but it is very linear and a tad generic on me. Agreeable, but not really anything special or exciting. 2.75/5.
01st December, 2017
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Firefly by Demeter Fragrance Library

Crisp, fresh, green wet and dew-dripping grass with earth, soil. Nice, but linear. A slightly rotten undertone. Evoking summer’s in the grass, nature.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Bright and summery, but very linear. Quite synthetic. Well-made in principle, less rich than Geoffrey Beene’s Bowling Green but vivid enough. It has limited longevity, but so do have fireflies. 3.5/5.
30th November, 2017
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Cinnamon Bun by Demeter Fragrance Library

Cinnamon bun it is, although mainly cinnamon for the first half. A cinnamon that is cinnamon, but a rather synthetic and generic version, linear and quite basic. It lacks a lot of the nuances of the whole bun, the aroma, the dough and the smell of the whole fresh and warm bun. A bit too basic.

The second half sees an easing off of the cinnamon and a generic spiciness developing.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent that is not bad, but that has been constructed a bit too plainly and too generically. 2.75.
29th November, 2017
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Clean Skin by Demeter Fragrance Library

Indeed, this smells like clean skin, with its opening based on a gently peachy note, with white rose and touches of an orangey undertone. Whiffs of vanilla at the end. No significant powderiness.
Fresh, gentle and very unobtrusive.

I get soft sillage, quite weak projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

On the one hand, this spring scent fulfills well the expectations raised by its name. On the other hand, in all its inoffensiveness it is quite bland and fairly generic-synthetic as a whole. On skin, a smell that smells like skin completely seems like a pointless exercise. Still, it is an acceptable materialisation of the concept of clean skin. 2.75/5.
28th November, 2017
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Between the Sheets by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is not a good effort in presenting this cocktail. A terribly synthetic and generic fruity sweetness, reminding me of GHB in our high school chemistry lab. A change of bartender is urgently needed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring event to run away from. 1.75/5.
27th November, 2017
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Brownie by Demeter Fragrance Library

The Brownie aroma is expressed really well for the first couple of hours, with the chocolate and the dough quite distinct and in-your-face convincing. This is the sort of approach that Demeter handles well.

The drydown sees a gradual fading of these typical components of the Brownie experience, which over time yield to a somewhat generic sweetish spiciness towards the end.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and an overall longevity of seven hours on my skin - after liberal application that is.

Another convincing albeit linear and very blunt and straightforward product of Demeter’s gourmand laboratory kitchen. 3/5.
26th November, 2017
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Bromélia by L'Occitane

This is a straightforward Bromelia composition. The aroma of this floral is hit nicely, with the occasional citrus undertone counteracting the - pleasant - sweetness. Overall it is quite a linear affair.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

An interesting floral spring scent that centres around a plant that is only infrequently used as core ingredient in perfumery. 3/5.
25th November, 2017
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Chocolate Chip by Demeter Fragrance Library

This one hits the spot. Form the start I get the aroma of chocolate chip cookies. Initially the chocolate is prominent; a rich milk chocolate. Later on the dough moves more into the foreground, underlined by a rich buttery note.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal creation is strongly synthetic, but the name is absolutely justified, and the realisation of the chocolate chip cookies is very convincing. It smells of lots of calories. 3.25/5.
24th November, 2017
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Zombie for Her by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening hits the mushrooms with the surrounding rotting leaves very well. The mildew is well characterised too.

In the drydown little changes, apart from generic whiffs of dried flowers appearing here and there.

With time the mushrooms are rotting away, leaving leaves on wet earth only.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This very autumnal scent is quite well crafted. I am not sure about the Zombie though, as I never smelt one. Maybe its demise occurred on the dark ground of the forest, and on walking away allnitnlefts were the mushrooms, the soil, the shades....
3/5!
23rd November, 2017
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Strawberry Ice by Demeter Fragrance Library

This smells indeed like strawberry, or, to be more precise, like strawberry ice cream. Or like a strawberry sundae.

The is an added undertone of vanilla, which becomes a dominant force in the fading base moments, but otherwise this is quite anlinear scent without any surprises.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent for cooler summer days is overly synthetic, but so is strawberry ice cream. After all, the average mass-production ice cream maker works more with flavours than with freshly squeezed fruit juices. Given this fact it is quite a realistic depiction of the ice cream in question. 3/5.
22nd November, 2017
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Sunshine by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is essentially a vanilla scent; a vanilla ice cream scent that is.

Initially freshened up by a touch of lemon, it is a rather linear creation, except for touches of a light powderiness being present towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a spring creation that it quite synthetic and generic. Not bad, but nothing special. 2.5/5.
21st November, 2017
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Thunderstorm by Demeter Fragrance Library

The atmosphere after rainfall or storm has inspired over the years; Après l’Ondée is maybe the most famous one.

Here the focus is on the earth and a woods after the event: earthy, green and in the shade; the ground afterwards. The atmosphere after the rain is represented by a rather synthetic-ozonic impression. After the first hour a dull chemical aftermath remains.

Of note is the lack of any floral components in this composition. The dark forest ground it is, without and friendly blossoms. This is not a sweet fragrance.

I get moderate sillage, good projection - for the first hour - and a total longevity of four hours.

A bit too synthetic overall, the first part is executed well and realistic enough to raise one’s interest. The rest is silence. 2.75/5.
20th November, 2017
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Poison Ivy by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is a nice way of an olfactory depiction of poison ivy. Quite green in a darker and shaded way, leafy and later on with the woodsy and earthy undertones of the stems.

It is a bit sweeter than what I expected, and with time the woodsy side becomes more dominant.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Initially quite convincing, it soon becomes a tad too generic and synthetic. Not bad though. 2.75/5.
19th November, 2017