A bergamot-vetiver freshness is what reminds a little bit me of the Eau de Sauvage of yesteryear, but nothing else: the fresh too notes soon turn floral, with geranium and lavender dominating on my skin. So far this is not unpleasamt. The base notes are ambroxan and a very dull patchouli with whiffs of generic woods - one can forget about the base, really.
The performance is all right with moderate sillage good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. Overall pleasant to some extent, very synthetic and boring - in one word: mediocre. Ten years after the release of Dior Homme this one disappoints. 2/5
Like with sjg3839 the similarity with the initial
Impression of the oud flanker was given on my skin. It tilts more towards ambery and is a bit softer and rounder. Not bad as a start.
The middle notes are a somewhat nonspecific wood mix, a but if cedar included, and in the base a rather synthetic-appearing ambergris-patchouli dyad is notes, very gently fading out.
The performance is good with moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. Not bad but not brilliant either.
Opening with a traditional lemon-bergamot mix that reminds me of the original, it soon takes on a greener and woodsier turn. Initially the drydown is characterised by mugwort and a cry soft myrrhe, but a mix of wood impressions - cedar in the foreground - develops moving towards the base notes. Whiffs of a rather bland white musk appear in the last hour too.
Whilst the first part is nicely done, most of the subsequent notes are a tad bland and the cedar also a bit too dull on my skin and unflatteringly laced with benzoin.
The performance - given the first part is citrus- heavy is good, with soft sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin. Overall this as a nice idea to commute the fresh and summery opening of the original with a different, mainly wood-dominated subsequent phase, which has not led to a very exciting flanker on my skin. 2.5/5
Bergamot, a pleasant cucumber and a nice eucalyptus - not the cough mix type but a bit more elegant - and overall quite refreshing scent that soon see a nice artemisia component added to it.
The drydown is traditional, with lavender and a light ambery note. In the base wood notes are dominant, with a fairly nice sandalwood and, most importantly, a guaïac added. This is a nice guaïac, well developed and typical enough to be convincing as a note that is not often used and not easy to realise in a fragrance. In the base there is also a nice mildly medicinal balsamic note that I enjoy. Unlike in many other scents the base keeps up the standard set by the earlier phases of this creation.
The performance is excellent with moderate sillage, good projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin. The wood might represent the paper and the shelves in an old library - maybe there is a connection to the name of this scent. Maybe the oriental balsam hints and Alexandria's ancient library. Otherwise it is well blended whilst keeping good structure and texture. 3/5.
The opening presents with bergamot and an aromatic green note, that seems to be predominantly eucalyptus leave with a slight floral hint. In the drydown the moss comes to the fore, again a very green, light and bright version and without any earthiness or sharpness. This is even softer that Tom Ford's Moss Breches, one of the lighter and brighter of moss fragrances.
On my skin the main addition is a white musk impression, which is quite restrained and not as rich as, for instance, Jovan's version. Overall the Black Collection's Moss is restrained, light, bright and maybe a touch too anaemic and thin.
As far as the performance is concerned, I get soft sillage, limited projection and six hours of longevity. A moss creation with a velvet touch. 2/5.
Where the name conjures up the mysteries of history, there is little of this in this pleasant scent: an orange blast - not from the past but in the opening blast - with soon a pleasant pepper impression joining it, not as part of an incense-style but more the ground-black-pepper version.
The drydown briefly turns a touch floral to then end up in a lightly musky-woodsy base. Pleasant but a tad unexciting.
The performance is very good, with moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin. It is a pleasant, albeit a touch pedestrian, scent. 2.5/5.
A summer opening indeed, lots of grapefruit, no range and mint, very nice and refreshing. In the drydown a green character develops, with a pleasant jasmine, hints of herbal impression, and in the base a light cedar without any pencil-shaving tendencies on my skin.
A good performance with moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin - a good longevity for a largely citrus-based product. Quite a traditional warm weather scent but well blended. 3.5/5
Too notes with vibes of summer: orange and grapefruit with a bit of ISO-E - not bad and the citrus lasts longer that usual.
In the drydown wood is prominent and the citrus recedes. The wood is a mix but not bad, and in the base notes some white musk are present with still residual citrus-brightness remaining.
Good performance: moderate sillage, good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
Good quality of the ingredients is notes, and is the fact that it is well-blended with good structure. 3/5.
Mint, aniseed, whiffs of coriander and incense - are we heading for another wintery Christmas theme scent? Yes and no, the abovementioned aromas point in that direction, yet the white floral drydown - hints of muguet - adds another dimension. A nice dimension.
Further down the line the base becomes a woodsy affair with the incense bending in nicely. The guaiacum in the base is one of the good ones I know, and this is a wood infrequently used, then then not always convincingly.
The performance is nothing short of excellent, with moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin, fading gracefully. A very pleasant cold-weather creation. 3.25/5
A refreshing summery-bright opening main based o petitgrain and orange-citrus that is very nice. Soon a ISO-E vibe is added, but it fits in very well, true to its reputation as a good blending molecule
The base is richer, with white florals blending with white musk. Overall this is well made and convincingly blended
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity on me - surprisingly long for such a citrus-petitgrain summer composition. 3.75/5
The opening says vanilla, albeit inititially in the background and gradually stronger; it is perennial in this scent. It is a well balanced and well made vanilla. In the top notes some mixed citrus is added, and in the heart notes lavender comes to the fore.
In the base a white musk impression evolves, and together with the vanilla it gradually fades away - and it fades late and slowly. The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity.
A pleasant albeit a touch unexciting composition, it is only the longevity that stands out - just positive. Nice in autumn. 3/5
The opening that greets me is a bergamot with light woodsy notes with a touch of booziness; it soon becomes close to my skin with a watery and thin jasmine drydown.
The base does not change significantly on my skin, and after the opening blast it remains very close to my skin. Even after liberal application the performance is nothing to write home about: soft sillage with poor projection and four hours of longevity.
Given the title I conclude that the gin it is meant to represent is not a very good one, and even with tonic water in my hand this scent is disappointing. A very light summer scent maybe. 1.5/5
Gentle spices, cardamom, hints of vetiver with dark wintery rose - yes, of course we expect cosy Christmas vibes, maybe some Christkindlmarkt atmosphere. And some of this we get.
On the other hand, the drydown and base have a distinct soothing balsamic undertone, together with a pleasant and soft white musk underpinning. A nice mix that fits the month that gives its name to this scent, but with a slightly different take on the subject so to speak, and beyond the usual stereotypes.
The performance is good, with moderate sillage, good projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin. A nice winter scent. 3/5
The opening combines and orange blossom charafteristic with a vetiver freshness and a soft and rounded patchouli. Later on a fairly restricted vanilla joins a surprisingly gentle and soft oakmoss, and duo that works together beautifully.
In the base wood is added; this phase is a touch more generic and less convincing, but the overall craftsmanship and blending is done very well.
Sillage is moderate, projection good and the longevity on my skin is nearly eight hours. Nice in spring. 3/5
On my skin the opening comes across as a fruity-fresh opening, with vibes of butyric acid and pineapples with an overarching passionfruit impression. There is a slightly spicy undertone, and whilst this all sounds a bit weird, it is actually a pleasant start. In the drydown there is a turn to the floral, dominated by magnolia and whiffs of oleander; Iike a Mediterranean summer garden.
A tonka note arises later on, with a white musk underpinning that is a touch duller but again pleasant.
The sillage I get is moderate, the projection good, and on my skinny he longevity is seven hours.
Overall this is a pleasant scent, not rivetingly exciting but with a nice twist, bearably it its syntheticness and well executed, and never cloyingly sweet. Nice in spring and early summer. 3/5.
This is a brighter and lighter leather than many others, and on my skin the leather is present straight from the opening blast on. It intermingles with an orange sidekick, and in the drydown sees a rather synthetic and somewhat unexciting rose added. There is an underlying freshness to this leather, which in itself bears the hallmarks of a clean, new, smooth handbag leather - maybe a hint and the handbag maker that owns this fragrance house?
The base adds a woodsy impression that initially is rather generic on me, but towards the end some guaiac in noticeable; and at that stage the wood is very pleasant and the guaiac quite convincing.
The performance is good, with moderate sillage, good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin. Bearing the name of this famous Cologne house renowned for fresh summer scents does not do this product justice, as this is a true leather fragrance indeed, with the leather being clean and a touch too synthetically sanitised. Nonetheless, the opening phase of this leather impression is rather nice, and together with its very good longevity this pushes it into the realm of a positive score -just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
The opening proclaims the oriental character of this creation, with a warm amber and a somewhat fruity camphoric-balsamic mix being a touch freshened up by hints of bergamot. The subsequent drydown is benzoin-heavy and adds a nice tonka note that in the base is counterbalanced by woodsy elements and a surprisingly soft and gentle white musky impression.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and the longevity is a marvelous twelve hours on my skin.
For the lover of oriental scents that are somewhat unexciting but reliable and versatile; a good winter scent. 3/5.
The opening phase is a boozy blast of oak wood and ambery notes, that is soon complimented by a nice cinnamon combined with a slightly sweetish vanilla note that on my skin remains present for many hours in the background. The further drydown is characterised by herbal influences Iike sage, which increasingly takes a floral turn, mainly lavender and sage. Here and there rays of bergamot break through to brighten up this floral-green landscape.
The base keeps up the sweetish-woodsy amber impression, and whisps of a slight muskiness can be detected at times. The one thing that is lacking is the whiskey; whilst traces of it might be present in the opening blast - albeit with some imagination, this is no Pure Malt.
The performance is excellent with moderate sillage, good projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin. A great scent for autumn, well blended of good quality ingredients but really lacking the significant whiskey component the name makes on expect in this scent. Mugler does this better. 3/5.
The opening blast is an intriguing mix of bergamot with clove and carnation, lots of carnation, and carnation remains he core notes of this fragrance throughout all stages. In the heart notes hints of a softish-dark patchouli combine with woodsy sandal notes, and here a delightful, quite soft mossy impression merges with ambery notes.
After about half time a top-notch natural vanilla takes the stage, beautifully balanced by the moss and still, of course, the ever-present carnation. Here a very subtle powderiness is pleasantly evident, underlined by a nigh-waxy characteristic of the now stronger amber note.
The performance is splendid with moderate sillage, very good projection and thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a composition of top-quality ingredients, superbly blended and very well structured, with nuanced texture denoting true sophistication in the design and execution of this gem of a scent. One of Caron's masterpieces. 4.25/5
The vintage perfume:
The intriguing opening is green indeed, with a slightly damp undertone, like meadows in the morning mist, wallowing in the fragrance of wet gardenias. There is also a nice galbanum twist present at this stage.
Hen, after the first hour, it suddenly collapses on my skin, causing considerable disappointment; but fear not: after a while it re-emerges, now dominated by floral notes, mainly lily-of-the-valley, rose, freesias and a lovely ylang-ylang.
The base deepens and darkens it a bit, with a gorgeous soft oakmoss mixing beautifully with Amber and a nice styrax note. Here in the base a honeyed waxiness is an overarching theme, which at the ends sees hints of a dark musk added without any civety sharpness in evidence.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity is truly outstanding at eleven hours.
The vintage EdT is a touch greener overall, and the base is a touch lighter and brighter; it lasts nine hours on me.
Both are marvelous: beautifully blended, composed of ingredients of the highest quality, very well structured and great scents indeed. 4/5
The vintage parfum:
The top notes are dominated by a delightful and not overly sweet peach notes, that has a fruity berry mixed with a very soft patchouli added to it. In the drydown a pleasant osmanthus-jasmine duo arises, with a peonie impression growing increasingly stronger; clearly the heart notes are a change to the floral side. Nevertheless, there is also a very soft amber component present, which in the base is given more depth by woodsy undertones.
Interestingly, on my skin the peach is always present and actually grows stronger towards the end; and as this is a very nice peach note it makes the end deliciously fruity with a hint rod powderiness. This a reversal of the traditional march from the fruity to the woody/musk; here this sequence is turned on its head - a nice twist.
The performance is exceptionalneither moderate sillage, good projectionnand a phenomenal longevity of nearly fourteen hours - superb and very good even for a parfum extraît. It is beautifully blended if products of the highest quality. A great composition that is masterfully executed but maybe not of a complexity and structure to make it a truly great masterpiece, but a beautiful fragrance nonetheless.
From the first moments of the opening blast this draws me in: a gorgeous triad of leather, oakmoss and coriander greets me: the leather is rich, darkly glowing, sweetish-waxed like the best saddle leather. A particularly beautiful treat is this oakmoss: well balanced in gentle sharpness with a wonderfully natural mossy aroma. This all is underlined with a healthy lashing of aldehydes.
The miracles continues in the floral-centric drydown, where carnation dominates, flanked by narcissus, jasmine, a dark Bulgarian rose and hints of hyacinth. The sweetness is of discrete elegance. The base returns to the leather that really never went away in the first place, adding a delicious gently shadowy patchouli, enhanced by mild vanilla dressing and a delicious amber impression that remains until the end. Just delicious from the beginning to the end!
And this end takes a while to arrive at: with moderate sillage and very good projection combined is a phenomenally outstanding longevity: sixteen hours!!
This is an amazing scent: beautifully smooth of refined texture, well structured and extremely well blended - and all made of ingredients of the very highest quality. One of the great masterpieces of the time, and one of the finest products of this great house. 4.5/5
The opening note does the name of this product justice - a lovely fairly ripe cherry aroma greet me, glowing and warm but still quite bright - very nice in its simplicity. The drydown, equally minimalist, consists of a warm jasmine, which has a slightly green touch. These are the two core notes I am getting, and in their simplicity and non-fussiness they are nonetheless nice - sometimes less is more, especially when, like here, the ingredients are if high quality and well-blended.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity six hours: not a spectacular scent but displaying enough nice cherry with good texture: 3/5.
That lemon hits the spot as the top note - well done and lemony refreshing - the juice, that is, not lemon sorbet, lemon tart and any other culinary enhancement, just the juice and the peel.
The drydown follows the summery line, with a light blond woodsy note operating until the end. These are the two phases I get on my skin: lemon juice and light wood. The opening blast is the best bit.
As exlrected from citrus-based fragrances, the performance is not stellar: moderate sillage, limited projection and three hours of longevity - average for such a composition.
A typical lemon summer cologne made of good-quality ingredients and quite natural; it needs frequent re-application though, as they do. 3/5.
A citrus-herbal top note dyad sees the name-giving oud added very early on my skin. The out really is at the core of this scent throughout its whole development: a pleasant oud, not too dark but also not very special. Neither are the other components, and it recedes to be close to my skin very soon.
The performance is not on the exciting side either, with soft sillage, limited projection and five hours of longevity in total.
Another quite all right synthetic oud scent, part of the current oud avalanche - not special and not bad either. 2.25/5
A brief fresh citrus-ginger-petitgrain blast opens up a brief bright glimpse, before the drydown develops the core note, a very nice iris impression. This iris is deep, rich and has a creamy texture and is most enjoyable. It is never really very sweet. The base is characterised by a pleasant slightly sweetish wood component, reminiscent of freshly felled trees in a forest.
The performance is excellent with moderate sillage, decent projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a very nice composition, using ingredients of excellent quality and is blended very well. Not very complex, but what it lacks in complexity it makes up in convincing quality. Great for spring. 3/5
The opening blast is delightful, a mix of lemon with a petit grain note - bright, refreshing, delicious. After the first phase in the dry down a faint green tea note develops on my skin, and, unlike with the top notes, I am not impressed with this one; it is a very watery tea indeed. The base is even less impressive; mainly a rather dull nonspecific woodsy impression.
The sillage is soft, the projection just adequate, and I get six hours of longevity; the last three very close to my skin.
The opening is great and if one likes such a mix of fresh notes this scent could be re-applied frequently in order to please. Overall, however, the great top notes are not enough to propel it into the realm of a positive score. A real shame. 2.5/5
The opening is a lovely petitgrain-drenched bright and fresh blast, that is elegant and light a ray of light - very nice. Unfortunately the drydown does not keep up with the expectations raised by this promising start; it is a quite non-specific slightly fruity affair. Similarly,the rather generic woodsy base and its development - or the lack of it - on my skin is nothing to write home about. The performance is poor, with soft sillage, poor projection and three hours of longevity.
A great start though. 2.25/5
The leather note that hits my notes in the opening blast may well be the best leather note Mugler has produced so far; it is a sweetish, soft, new-leather wallet nappa leather that is very well done. It is a touch less sweet that Royal English Leather and more convincing than Pure Cuir. There is a fruity berry aroma added with hints of bergamot, but soon in the drydown a sandalwood is added. This drydown'so wood has a creamy honeyed characteristic, which later takes on a caramel vibe that is never too sweet, never cloying and very well blended.
In the base a chocolate-vanilla ice cream impression comes to the fore, with coumarin added and the caramel still going strong. A lovely finish.
The performance is superb with moderate sillage, good projection and twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
This delight in a bottle displays all the strengths of the best Mugler scent, whilst avoiding their at times cloying excessive sweetness and heaviness. It is very well blended. One of TM's finest. 4/5
The opening blast combines the typical Angel-ic sweet-anise with a sweetish leather note, like a cheaper and attenuated version of the leather note in Creed's Royal English Leather. At times I am catching whiffs of caramel in the opening phase. In the drydown a mixture of a sweetish and rounded ambery impression and hints of tonka are complementing the anise very nicely.
The base continues the above mentioned themes, adding a sweetly flavoured tobacco note, a bit like a vanilla flavoured Erinmore Blend. All in all these are synthetic but well executed, and the blending is well done, very smooth indeed.
Performance-wise this is one of the impressive Muglers, with fairly strong sillage, good projection and an excellent longevity of over ten hours on my skin. More interesting than Pure Cuir, this combines the original's best parts with an interesting, albeit traditional, twist. One of TM's good creations, and this House's best leather rendition on me. 3.5/5