The fruity opening is loaded towards apricot and distinctly peachy sides, with the raspberry remaining in the background on me. The heart notes constitute a determined shift towards the heavily floral, with lily-of the valley, rose and jasmine forming a triumvirate of floral supremacy; only occasionally is the initial fruitiness shining through.
The base notes are centred around white musk and vanilla, with the latter adding more sweetness to what the previous components already contributed to this creation. The sweetness with the musk works quite well and develops light and elegant rays of a restrained lipstick accord with whiffs of a bright and youthful powderiness towards the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity amounts to six hours on my skin.
This is a confidently sweetish-fruity-floral spring scent, which seems to target the gender-stereotype of the young and girly TYTs. This is congruent with the design of the very chic bottle, which reflects the elegant lines of Charles Jourdan's famous shoes of the period with their famous transparent ultra-high heels. Whilst many houses nowadays seem to presume that this target group only deserves trashy perfumes, Très Jourdan shows that there is an alternative: a sweetish, playful and colourful creation with a touch of substance, the average Victoria's Secret with a touch of class and quality so to speak. Not a great one but a fun one, with ingredients of acceptable quality. For those who don't like its sweetness this might not be the right choice. 3.25/5.
TYT here = trendy young things.
The fresh, summery opening notes are heavily weighted towards citrus, with hedione and aldehydes forming an underlying carpet of crispness that combines very nicely with the citrus components. This is, however, not a direct burst of invigorating freshness but more a restrained freshness with a touch of elegance. This opening is done nicely. Alas I am not so sure all the subsequent notes are too.
The paradigmatic and iconic rose chord that is a central part of the original No.5 is quite toned down hereand additional floral tones are added, mainly ylang-ylang on my skin. The base is really a weak spot here, with the woodsy as well and the musky constituents being too generic to be able to follow on with the standards set by the top notes; it is quite a disappointment.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a bloodless shadow of the original, but it is quite nice overall. Chanel certainly has created worse scents in the more recent past, and this is definitely not one of their best works. It is hard to score, hovering just between the border between neutral and positive. Unfortunately, the outright generic synthetic character of the base really spoils it a bit, whilst on the other hand there is a touch of elegance permeating the whole development, albeit only a far-flung echo reflecting from the grand original version. In the end it - just - scrapes home by the skin of its teeth. 3/5
A nonspecific white floral note - sweet and quite permeating in this - is followed but a fresher drydown. A light neroli impression do it's the drydown, but it is not very a very typical neroli and it lacks any texture.
Later an very bland ambery-musky base develops that fades out gradually.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity seven hours on my skin.
Victoria's Secret has a penchant for penetrating my and nauseatingly sweet creations - that is no secret. In its sugary candy quality this spring scent is quite typical for this house, and its very generic and synthetic nature does not help. 1.75/5.
This is a refreshing detour from the sickly sweetening usual VC offerings. It starts with a fruity mix, with fresh plum, hints of apricot, and is not unpleasant.
The drydown consists of a nonspecific woodsy impression, with an underlying fruitiness still less present, but overall lacking prominent sweetness on my skin.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity.
A pleasant spring scent, not particularly sweet but quite synthetic. Still, not bad for VC albeit nothing special either. It has a touch of being less frivolous and is suitable for evenings, but in spite its name it is not restricted to that time of the day. 2.75/5.
There is a fruity-green top note duo that starts off quite pleasantly, but pleasantly without being special in any way.
The drydown is hailed by a bouquet of nonspecifically floral nature, which is leading to a patchouli-lite impression; this combines with a very dull white musk.
He sillage is soft, the projection adequate and he longevity four hours.
A rather bloodless spring concoction, generic and synthetic, not unpleasant but without individuality. 2.5/5.
The lemony too note is the cor accord is this creation, together with an underlying green tint. This is quite pleasant.
In the drydown a woodsy component develops, which is paired with a fruity vibe and a rather generic white musk base.
The sillage is soft, the projection limited and the longevity three hours.
A pleasant summer mix, very synthetic, generic and quite mediocre. 2.75/5.
The citrus start is infused with a rather dull gingery note. The cardamom in the drydown - there are musky components too - is pleasant but not particularly memorable. The vetiver in the base is light without gray earthiness, and I get a rather synthetic but fortunately restrained vanilla note.
The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity did hours.
Pleasant on cooler summer days, this is quite nice quite generic and overall mediocre. The name says it all: to drive sales - that in the intention and apparently the sole intention. 2.5/5.
Floral artificiality galore - a very generic mix of a floral component that can only be analysed by means of chemical formulae. A super-sweet musky undertone does not really improve things here. Just smelling it appears to raise my blood sugar levels into the range of diabetic coma....
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity five hours.
Death by hyperglychaemia and toxicity from leaking factory chemicals. 1.5/5.
A profusely sweet concoction of a fruity rose core - bmcery synthetic, with the laboratory impression being the predominant component in this creation.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.
A biochemistry fest with an utterly impersonal and exchangeable sweet candy mix - 1.5/5.
Caramel is the first impression, quite rich and smooth; then a sweetish cocoa/chocolate impression develops without further ado - this is a gourmand opening if there ever has been one.
In the drydown a slightly floral twist - lavender and iris - gives way to the second stage which is characterised by a concoction of a generic marry soup that I find to be on the unexciting side. The gourmand core gradually recedes, and the amber soup prevails for a long time.
The performance is very good, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.
An autumnal gourmand - ambery creation, displaying very good performance but very much a lab product that is rather generic in the second half. Not bad but not really great either. 2.75/5.
An opening note that is characterised by citrus - apple, orange and a slice of lemon - and that is given a slightly darker tinge by a gingery undertone. This is a comparatively unobtrusive ginger, quite restrained and lacks the bightness of the ginger note in e.g. Creeds Tabarôme Millesimé. In spite of the citrus input into the top notes they are more dimly smolderingly fresh than brightly refreshingly fresh.
The second stage adds a coriander-based chord that adds an additional tilt towards a deeper side. Overarching is a very subtle thin layer of and overlying aldehydic tone that adds very little to it in substance except touches of synthetic vibes.
The sillage is soft, the projection all right and the longevity four hours.
A nice idea but this scent for cooler summer days is a bit colourless and lacks intensity to really convince, unless one likes to wear more anaemic fragrances such as this. 2.75/5.
This limited Christmas special opens with a rich mix of a dark second-flush Darjeeling tea mixed with festive spices that add a slightly pepper my undertone; this all is garnished with a lovely layer of cinnamon that permeates the whole deliciously.
The drydown sees little change initially, but later on a woodsy pine note arrives and grows stronger gradually. Now the whole is definitely expressing the time of year it was released: very much Christmas Spirit in a bottle.
The base sees some subtle changes. Firstly, the fir develops a more balsamic undertone but is steers clear of any medicinal characteristics. Secondly, the spicy side retreats to some extent and is replaced by a honeyed characteristic that adds a gently sweetening effect that is very pleasant and add just the right level of honey to round of this composition in a well-balanced fashion.
The performance is a stunner: I get moderate sillage - initially strong - with excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of an amazing sixteen hours on my skin. On clothes it might be designed to last all Christmas!
This limited-edition CdG is a clearly following a somewhat unoriginal cliché, but is a lovely and well executed composition - one is wearing the aromas that are in the air at a Christkindlmarket. 3.75/5.
The citrus and sublime bergamot-base freshness of the opening blast is combined with a slightly spicy cumin that mixed beautifully with the fresh components. This is not a strong, loudly refreshing opening but more a gently caressing freshness, a very convincing opening.
Soon the drydown brings the absinthe to the fore, a light-footed and bright absinthe without a licorice characteristic - this is no Pernod or Ricard but much airier and lighter. Together with a beautiful albeit somewhat discreet lavender the heart notes exude minimal booziness.
With a herbal undertone of dry hay already starting to grow stronger in the latter stages of the central phase, in the drydown the dry glass grows stronger, combining with a lovely immortelle; here the cumin is still present in the background and is infused with a very restrained tobacco note.
Then, an hour before the end, this tobacco suddenly takes centre stage: a beautiful, slightly honeyed Virginia leaf mixed with characteristics of the original Oriental Blend by Davidoff - a beautiful pipe tobacco aroma whose flame is fading gently.
His sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity nine hours on my skin.
This is a gorgeous spring scent for any time of the day, blended exquisitely of natural ingredients of the most amazing quality. This creation is discreet, frail at times and instilled with an airy and fragile elegance. At times it is a bit too discrete, to an extent that it borders on being a bit pale, but this would be the only serious drawback I can see in this product.
Overall still a great creation of some originality and the right balance between complexity and simplicity, with a very good performance that puts rest to the myth that natural ingredients cannnot provide good performance. Maybe a touch more richness and texture would make this an unequivocal masterpiece. 3.75/5.
A pleasant but very restrained opening of citrus and bergamot leads to a drydown that combines heliotropes with a floral bouquet of peony and pansy impression. The citrus-cum-bergamot freshness is now in the backgound and instead whiffs of neroli are present.
The base is the least remarkeale part, a somewhat dull and uninteresting white musky note. Not a convincing end.
I get soft sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity close to my skin.
This is a nice summery scent. Pros: well blended of good, mainly natural ingredients. Cons: very discreet and at times plainly weak, even in the overall quite pleasant top and heart notes. The base is a letdown.
Overall verdict: close to the dividing line between neutral and positive, but the need for frequent reapplication and the disappointing base tilt it towards the neutral side. Discreetness can be good but this one is too discrete. 2.75/5.
Citrus and anise, a gorgeous dyad combing slightly acidic fruitiness with a well executed anise combine to very nice set of top notes. Then there is a phase when it is close to my skin, but the intensity and projection is resurrected soon. After a while a potpourri of lovely, natural floral chords herald the arrival of the drydown: mainly ylang ylang and frangipani on me, there is a white tuberose in the backgound. A white floral phase so to speak. All this is well balanced, never cloying and never too sweet - these heart notes won't give you olfactory hyperglycaemia.
The base is pretty much a continuation of then middle notes plus and added vanilla that is fitting in very well: again, pleasant and unclogging sweetness, and the vanilla is quite typical and convincing and pleasantly un-synthetic. The weak spot is a somewhat generic woodsy note, but otherwise the base is a good finish to this fragrant journey.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
This products is lovingly blended in a very convincing manner, and the quality of the natural ingredients is beyond doubt. Great in spring, smooth and satisfying. 3.75/5.
A smooth, smooth start: a soft, sonewhat creamy patchouli with cedarwood. The cedar is without much pencil-shaving characteristics and both notes mix very well. A slightly minty undertones provides a bit of freshness.
In the drydown a transient slightly chocolate-like background chord is added, but heading towards the base the other main player is a soft vanilla impression. This vanilla is neither intrusive not cloying and seamlessly seeps into the whole, adding a pleasant and somewhat restrained sweetness.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and I get eight hours of longevity on my skin, the last couple of hours, however, very close to my skin.
This lovely autumn scent is quite wearable for all occasions and has a more formal feeling to it. It is beautifully blended and one of this house's showpieces. 3.5/5.
The Crown Perfumery original vintage version:
The top notes are a mix of a top-notch bergamot, lemon and a really delicious juniper - the latter is one of the best juniper notes I can recall and close to the benchmark note in Baie de Genièvre. A classic opening blast, soon combines with a cypress note that indeed shows some similarities with the great Cypres-Musc, although Buckingham has less punch than the Creed but is gentler and in the end more elegant.
The drydown sees the fresh components of the beginning fade and replaced by a green woodsy and minimally tangy set of heart notes; this is associated with a very gentle spiciness that is a touch peppery, and is not at all harsh. A whiff of a mossy apparition is of note, although I do not really get any oak moss here.
The base strengthens the wood constituents by revigorating the cypress that was hitherto languishing in the backgound. Now a beautiful coniferous impression is added, mainly fir, which reminds me of a less intense and less deep version of Bogner's stunning Deep Forest. These is a delightful balsamic undertone in the background; the latter is convincing but lacks a significant medicine-cupboard component. Towards the end a gently soapy powderiness is evident.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity nine hours on my skin.
An utterly delightful spring creation with a strong outdoorsy-coniferous development, which is beautifully blended of first-class ingredients. Never heavy and always developing in an interesting manner, this is one of Crown's finest. 4/5
The opening is a traditional one: top-notch bergamot, lavender, some rosemary and a dash of neroli - executed beautifully. The drydown adds hints of slightly boozy herbal vibes.
The base shifts towards the development of a musky undertone, with a restrained vanilla undertone. This vanilla is discrete, never cloying and expresses minimal sweetness only; towards the end the vanilla is accompanied by a very light and unstuffy powderiness. It is a pleasant end that lacks a try barbershop feel.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a traditional spring Eau de Cologne composed of ingredients of excellent quality and is very well blended. It reminds me is some aspects of the great Dunhill Blend 30, with less wood and less florals in the heart notes, with less depth and less complexity. Nevertheless, Cougar is a convincing high-quality animal of tradition, without being dated. 4/5.
The combination of a beautiful clean orris blends with the aroma of budding tree in early spring, a very gentle blossom that lacks significant sweetness. The feeling of sitting on a forest clearing in early spring comes to mind, with a sense of delicacy and fragility woven into these bright top notes.
The drydown introduces more depth, with impressions of a very light cinnamon and transient whiffs of cardamom added in, with notions of a light just yellowing Virginia tobacco mixed with fresh hay appearing; touches of Coumarin are woven into this development of delicate complexity. In the base, which is somewhat more linear and less exciting, the hay and the cinnamon gently fade out.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity about five hours on my skin.
An incredibly well blended spring creation, combining mutifaceted sensuousness with pointillistic fragility. What bowls me over is the incredible purity of these natural ingredients and their accomplished combination and permutations. 4.25/5.
This opening is delicious: lemon (dominant), bergamot and a fruity undertone - lychee, kumquat and whiffs of a petitgrain-like aroma. This is not a pure lemon - certainly less straight-out lemony than Monsiour Balmain, for instance, and it has a certain elegance to it.
The drydown is more linear with a floral chord in the centre, but the lemon still remains. The base sees the lemon element vanishing gradually, to be relaxed by a fairly bright vetiver. This vetiver is fairly slim, quite well done, and has a slightly woody element to it, but without any significant element of earthiness. Towards the end a sonewhat generic vanilla appears, which, interestingly, only contains very little sweetness.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. The performance is excellent for this citrus-summery type of scent.
This summer pleasure lacks the supreme quality of the top summer Creeds, Bois de Cédrat or Sélection Verte, but its top notes are quite delightful. The later parts are not that exciting except the agreeable, but not brilliant, vetiver towards the end. 3.5/5.
A fresh floral note, predominantly ylang-ylang, is at the heart of the top notes. This a medium-fresh ylang that is at times displaying touches of fruitiness, but - surprisingly - only containing minimal sweetness.
In the drydown a slightly fresh-ish aldehydic side is revealed, with whiffs of a sea breeze and an underlying floral carpet, now with whiffs of hesperidic undertones. In the base a very restrained and ephemeral touch of a somewhat fizzy mandarine is present, but the fresh ylang-ylang is shining through still.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
Pleasant in spring, quite original and the ylang-ylang is of very high quality, whilst the rest is a tad generic. 3.25/5.
The opening is green and fresh. The green aroma is anchored in a delightful galbanum of high quality, like a breeze of nature outdoors, quite bright but without any bergamot or citrus component. In the drydown an impression of a floral nature is developing gradually, but is is not a mainly sweet smell of blossoms that I perceive, but more the fragrance of wet rose leaves after the rain.
The base is characterised by a pleasant ambery vibe, with faint hints of vanilla added in at times. Towards the end a very faint, fresh web of a contemporaneous powderiness is present.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.
A pleasing spring creation that is a bit linear, but the lack of complexity is outbalanced by the beauty of the galbanum. The rest is respectable but not really spectacular. 3.25/5.
The opening is a fruity concoction, a fruit ship so to speak, with dried apricots most prominent on my skin; transient whiffs of mint briefly appear. Later on a mango note is added, together with hints of cantaloupe.
Further into the drydown an ephemeral herbal element leads to the base, which is dominated by a sandalwood impression that is quite pleasant, but remains a bit flat in my skin, even taking into account the often restrained nature of natural sandalwood ingrendients.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
This spring scent is an agreeable mix of some nice natural ingredients with some rather synthetic and generic components. Overall is well blended but it not really special as a whole. 2.75/5.
Lavender with cinnamon - that is the core dyad I am getting in the beginning, with a slightly minty undertone. The main addition in the drydown is a fairly smooth and creamy vanilla impression, that is not bad and never really intrusively sweet or cloying. The is at times a gently spicy component added to it; the latter is quite light and more a touch-up than a main chord in this case.
The base adds a very synthetic musky note, but the vanilla stays on also until the end.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.
This autumnal scent is well blended, but the synthetic ingredients are rather generic and not very exciting. Not bad, not particularly good - 2.75/5.
A fruity soft and smooth opening phase, somewhat bright, constitutes the initial of this creation. Later a jasmine undertone is added, a discrete jasmine that blends in well.
In the second phase a wood note; sandal with hints of a restrained tonka with minimal sweetness is added. This is a very creamy, smooth and quite soft mix.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
A scent that is nice for autumn, with some nice notes but overall a bit too generic and unexciting. Neither bad nor particularly remarkable. 2.75/5.
Rare are the scents that aim at creating the olfactory impression of Buddha's Hand, but Dadier succeeds in this endeavour rather well. The lemony note is achieved convincingly, and sets a summery, bright and light tone. Lovely!
Later on, after the first hour this collapses, not unusual for citrusy top notes in general, and from then on its is all very close to my skin. Still, digging my nose deep into my anantomical snuff box, I can detect a vetiver with an ambery synthetic undertone and moments of vegetal hints. No comparison to the top notes though!
The sillage is soft to moderate, the projection a deviate and the total longevity five hours.
A summer delight with the expected poor overall performance and a - just - positive score overall. 3/5.
The opening blast of white florals, including muguet, a lovely rose, hyacinth, whiffs of geranium, oleander and bergamot. A beautiful floral bouquet, bright and like a spring day in the English countryside.
After the first hour or so this floral still-life collapses and the idyllic canvas is torn apart, revealing a far less exciting picture beneath. A rather synthetic slightly spicy musk-based woodsy drydown wot hints of coriander is generic and unexciting.
I get moderate sillage and good projection initially, but after an hour it is very close to my skin - it lasts six hours.
The beauty of the top notes is indisputable, but so is the mediocrity of the drydown. Overall this results in a - barely - positive score. 3/5.
In a specifically and historically defined way of the term "chypre" I wonder whether this epithet is applied correctly to the product in question. There are, however, in IB certain features characteristic of a typical chypre fragrance, and maybe one could call it a 'chyproid' scent.
For starters, the citrus-bergamot opening blast is typical for a chypre, although in IB there is soooo much more to it. It is combined with a delightful violet chord and with lashings of aldehydes and cardamom, with a whiff of herbal goodness under the surface. The overall impression of this opening potpourri is quite unique, original and very well crafted. A top-notch opening phase.
In the drydown lavender is more evident, lavender being the second characteristic of a classic chypre that is present here. This lavender is not sweet, not really softish-floral and carries a more herbal than a floral-blossom connotation. What this lavender has instead is an underlying soft and slightly spicy powderiness, a mildly chalky powderiness that has cuncurrent traditional as well as contemporaneous undertones that complement each other well.
This all is gradually sweetened in the base by a soft and never cloying vanilla aroma, and only later the third component associated with chypres moves to the fore: a light and discreet gingery white musk, but the harsh edginess and mossy components so typical of the classic chypre are conspicuous by their absence. The end game is powdery vanilla above all.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin, with the last couple of hours being very close to my skin.
A delicious and invigorating cluster of too notes raises this composition way above average, although the subsequent development does not keep up the expectation that is raised initially. Nonetheless, a good spring chyproid, versatile and suitable for all but the most formal and ceremonious occasions, and one of the best creations this house has released. 3.75/5.
Form the beginning a generic leathery crisp peppery impression greets me. It has a fairly clear harshness to it, with the nutmeg quite evident. The saffron is more vague on my skin, and has a somewhat flat and woolly character.
Further into the drydown all of that harsh leathery note remains as generic and nonspecifically synthetic as it gets: characteristics of many a synthetic patchouli, musk or pseudo-oud flow together in the artificial laboratory creation.
The base softens is a bit, with generic woodsy and vanilla notes ringing in the end of this olfactory line.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity.
Not bad, well blended and nice in autumn, but too generic to make a true mark. 2.5/5.
The opening blast is all ripe fruit: sweet ripened candied pear with a hint of citrus and a generous lashing of aldehydes to an extent that is has a touch of booziness attached to it. Quite delicious. Dried mirabelles prunes are added in the drydown, as are floral undertones. The latter consist of mainly osmanthus with a nice ylang-ylang mixed in. The heart notes continue the fruity main chord with the floral side bringing welcome variety and balancing the fruitiness nicely.
The drydown is a bit more predictable, following the MDCI tradition of ambery soft and quite bright patchouli with white musk characteristics increasingly evident towards the end. At that stage the powderiness sets in, but is is very gentle in this case, like a gossamer thread woven over the other notes delicately. Fairly generic woodsy impressions appear throughout the base notes too.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity eight hours on my skin.
This is a nice spring scent, more vivid and performing better that many other creations of this house, and, apart from the base, does not lack some originality; the first hours are the best moment in the development of this composition. In spite of the name, I get neither chocolate nor vanilla though. 3.25/5.