Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

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Total Reviews: 2151
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Linden by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is indeed a credible rendering of the linden fragrance as it is exuded by linden blossoms.

A bit flatter than the originals, this is a fairly restrained floral blossom aroma, of discrete sweetness and not at all heavy. On the contrary, this Demeter is more on the airy and elegant side.

The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity is six hours on my skin.

Although rather linear in its development, this is a pleasant tree blossom creation. 3.25/5.
13th December, 2017
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Fig Leaf by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening presents what is a decent attempt at fig leaves, but there is also the aroma of the fruit - more the dried fruit than the fresh, green version on my skin. The greenness of the leaves comes out nicely initially, but it gets lost a bit in the later stages of the development of this composition. This all is blended quite nicely.

This Demeter has thus more than one layer to it, and with time they both vary in the ratio of which they contribute to the whole.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on me.

A prima facie agreeable impression of fig leaves, but it is marred by being overly synthetic, and at times unpleasantly so. Still, overall not bad. No fig leaf needed to hide this one. 2.75/5.
12th December, 2017
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Vitória Régia : Flor da Noite by L'Occitane

The is in essence a floral composition. Whilst touches of water lily are are present at times - the name is thus not completely misleading - on my skin this is a white floral mix, with muguet, oleander and peony in the forefront. Occasionally the insertion of a lemony note adds some freshness in the early stages.

Later in the drydown a fruity note developers and mixes with the florals. It is a rather nonspecific fruitiness, but whiffs of lychee are detectable at times. The base adds a white musk that is nothing special but quite well constructed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and m four hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring creation with a tropical undertone and some original touches. 3/5.
11th December, 2017
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Apple Blossom by Demeter Fragrance Library

A floral mix - a mainly floral mix is what I get. It is a very homogenous and pleasant mix, but in all its pleasantness it is a tad generic.

Whiffs of apple come and go at times - apple, not apple blossom that is.

Otherwise there is not much further development on my skin.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on me.

A pleasant but quite unoriginal floral spring scent. 2.75/5.
10th December, 2017
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Champagne Brut by Demeter Fragrance Library

A sweetish, slightly fizzy opening blast expresses a fruity side with a certain booziness. This is at the core of this creation.

There are two things this product nothing to do with:

(1) Champagne - the drink that is. There is neither even only a hint of Chardonnay is this mix, nor any trace of Pinot Noir or of any other grape used in Champagne, nor of any other grape usually used in an sparkling wine. Maybe to mimic the blandest of the blandest Moscatos was the aim of this Demeter, but even this was not achieved successfully.

(2) Brut. This sweet soup is not dry at all even by the boldest stretch of imagination. A ridiculous name.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and I get a longevity of nine hours on my skin.

The performance of this spring creation is very good, but otherwise this generic chemical fluid with its bland sweetness and synthetic fruitiness has no redeeming features at all. 1.75/5.
09th December, 2017
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Dark Chocolate by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is an opening that is clearly dark chocolate, nothing but dark chocolate. Not very bitter, rich, well done. Gourmand galore!

Then second half looses a bit in intensity and in chocolate-i-ness, and an unfortunate chemical undertone develops. Still, these is enough chocolate re-emerging towards the end.

The performance is phenomenal: strong sillage, excellent projection and thirteen hours of longevity on my skin.

A very simple and straightforward autumn gourmand that is quite nice overall. 3.25/5.
08th December, 2017
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Bourbon by Demeter Fragrance Library

The super-boozy opening blast has indeed some characteristics of Bourbon - the aroma of a basic Bourbon; this is no Maker’s Mark but not bad. This lasts for about five minutes.

The rest is a generic boozy - or later less so - with an occasional nonspecific fruitiness in the backgound. Very nonspecific.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and two hours of total longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent exhibiting five decent minutes. The performance is poor. The rest is silence. 2.5/5.
07th December, 2017
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Frozen Margarita by Demeter Fragrance Library

The first phase is characterised by a strong boozy fizziness, which rather nonspecific and annoyingly synthetic. A icy fizziness straight from a chemical laboratory.

After a while this concoction finally develops some more interesting features: the long-awaited lime-juice aroma develops, as does a vague alholic notion that might represent a rather basic tequila. I am waiting - in vain - for hints of Cointreau, or for any Triple Sec for that matter.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A mix for cooler summer days; a boozy lime juice of limited distinction. 2.5/5.
06th December, 2017
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Gingerale by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is a pleasant opening that has some features of ginger ale: the ginger ale aroma, the lighter, modern version but a bit sweeter that Canada’s Dry or Schweppes initially.

After a while the fizz gets stronger and towards the end is so dominant that it is a bit too intensive, overwhelming the actual ginger ale impression.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

Agreeable initially, then a bit too synthetic and overly fizzy. 2.75/5.
05th December, 2017
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Grapefruit Tea by Demeter Fragrance Library

The tea is a restrained Darjeeling style, but with hints of greens tea. It is clearly overwhelmed by the dominant grapefruit note.

This is a sweetish and ripe grapefruit, which is not really the refreshing type - very much unlike Creed’s Zeste Mandarine Pamplemousse, for instance.

I get soft sillage, limited projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant albeit weak fruity tea scent for warm spring days. The performance is poor, and the notes are a tad generic. 2.75/5.
04th December, 2017
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Lily of the Valley by Demeter Fragrance Library

The initial stage is a rather generic nonspecific floral impression that never really takes off on my skin. It remains subdued and flat.

During the second half it does not become much stronger, but with time a pleasant lily of the valley develops: with only mild sweetness, the characteristics of this flower are well expressed, with the green touch of the leaves included. Not bad at all and this stage.

I get soft sillage, limited projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent makes a mixed impression, and its synthetic nature is not helping; but eventually it results in moments of pleasant olfactory experiences. 2.75/5.
03rd December, 2017
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Lilac by Demeter Fragrance Library

The light floral note that characterises this Demeter has some lilac characteristic, but it is not a very vivid or intense one, and it is endowed with a sweet undertone. In atmosphere it is more on the bright-ish side.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Whilst not without its charms, this spring monofloral is a bit bland in general, and it is ever so bluntly synthetic in nature. For the lilac-seeker of interest, otherwise on the lower end of mediocrity. 2/5.
02nd December, 2017
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Incense by Demeter Fragrance Library

This incense is soft incense that is based on a slightly sweet resin is note. It lacks any harshness, and i do not get any balsamic or medicinal character. It is more a woody incense concept.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This is quite a pleasant autumnal creation, but it is very linear and a tad generic on me. Agreeable, but not really anything special or exciting. 2.75/5.
01st December, 2017
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Firefly by Demeter Fragrance Library

Crisp, fresh, green wet and dew-dripping grass with earth, soil. Nice, but linear. A slightly rotten undertone. Evoking summer’s in the grass, nature.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Bright and summery, but very linear. Quite synthetic. Well-made in principle, less rich than Geoffrey Beene’s Bowling Green but vivid enough. It has limited longevity, but so do have fireflies. 3.5/5.
30th November, 2017
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Cinnamon Bun by Demeter Fragrance Library

Cinnamon bun it is, although mainly cinnamon for the first half. A cinnamon that is cinnamon, but a rather synthetic and generic version, linear and quite basic. It lacks a lot of the nuances of the whole bun, the aroma, the dough and the smell of the whole fresh and warm bun. A bit too basic.

The second half sees an easing off of the cinnamon and a generic spiciness developing.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal scent that is not bad, but that has been constructed a bit too plainly and too generically. 2.75.
29th November, 2017
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Clean Skin by Demeter Fragrance Library

Indeed, this smells like clean skin, with its opening based on a gently peachy note, with white rose and touches of an orangey undertone. Whiffs of vanilla at the end. No significant powderiness.
Fresh, gentle and very unobtrusive.

I get soft sillage, quite weak projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

On the one hand, this spring scent fulfills well the expectations raised by its name. On the other hand, in all its inoffensiveness it is quite bland and fairly generic-synthetic as a whole. On skin, a smell that smells like skin completely seems like a pointless exercise. Still, it is an acceptable materialisation of the concept of clean skin. 2.75/5.
28th November, 2017
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Between the Sheets by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is not a good effort in presenting this cocktail. A terribly synthetic and generic fruity sweetness, reminding me of GHB in our high school chemistry lab. A change of bartender is urgently needed.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A spring event to run away from. 1.75/5.
27th November, 2017
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Brownie by Demeter Fragrance Library

The Brownie aroma is expressed really well for the first couple of hours, with the chocolate and the dough quite distinct and in-your-face convincing. This is the sort of approach that Demeter handles well.

The drydown sees a gradual fading of these typical components of the Brownie experience, which over time yield to a somewhat generic sweetish spiciness towards the end.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and an overall longevity of seven hours on my skin - after liberal application that is.

Another convincing albeit linear and very blunt and straightforward product of Demeter’s gourmand laboratory kitchen. 3/5.
26th November, 2017
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Bromélia by L'Occitane

This is a straightforward Bromelia composition. The aroma of this floral is hit nicely, with the occasional citrus undertone counteracting the - pleasant - sweetness. Overall it is quite a linear affair.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity on my skin.

An interesting floral spring scent that centres around a plant that is only infrequently used as core ingredient in perfumery. 3/5.
25th November, 2017
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Chocolate Chip by Demeter Fragrance Library

This one hits the spot. Form the start I get the aroma of chocolate chip cookies. Initially the chocolate is prominent; a rich milk chocolate. Later on the dough moves more into the foreground, underlined by a rich buttery note.

I get strong sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal creation is strongly synthetic, but the name is absolutely justified, and the realisation of the chocolate chip cookies is very convincing. It smells of lots of calories. 3.25/5.
24th November, 2017
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Zombie for Her by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening hits the mushrooms with the surrounding rotting leaves very well. The mildew is well characterised too.

In the drydown little changes, apart from generic whiffs of dried flowers appearing here and there.

With time the mushrooms are rotting away, leaving leaves on wet earth only.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This very autumnal scent is quite well crafted. I am not sure about the Zombie though, as I never smelt one. Maybe its demise occurred on the dark ground of the forest, and on walking away allnitnlefts were the mushrooms, the soil, the shades....
3/5!
23rd November, 2017
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Strawberry Ice by Demeter Fragrance Library

This smells indeed like strawberry, or, to be more precise, like strawberry ice cream. Or like a strawberry sundae.

The is an added undertone of vanilla, which becomes a dominant force in the fading base moments, but otherwise this is quite anlinear scent without any surprises.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent for cooler summer days is overly synthetic, but so is strawberry ice cream. After all, the average mass-production ice cream maker works more with flavours than with freshly squeezed fruit juices. Given this fact it is quite a realistic depiction of the ice cream in question. 3/5.
22nd November, 2017
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Sunshine by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is essentially a vanilla scent; a vanilla ice cream scent that is.

Initially freshened up by a touch of lemon, it is a rather linear creation, except for touches of a light powderiness being present towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a spring creation that it quite synthetic and generic. Not bad, but nothing special. 2.5/5.
21st November, 2017
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Thunderstorm by Demeter Fragrance Library

The atmosphere after rainfall or storm has inspired over the years; Après l’Ondée is maybe the most famous one.

Here the focus is on the earth and a woods after the event: earthy, green and in the shade; the ground afterwards. The atmosphere after the rain is represented by a rather synthetic-ozonic impression. After the first hour a dull chemical aftermath remains.

Of note is the lack of any floral components in this composition. The dark forest ground it is, without and friendly blossoms. This is not a sweet fragrance.

I get moderate sillage, good projection - for the first hour - and a total longevity of four hours.

A bit too synthetic overall, the first part is executed well and realistic enough to raise one’s interest. The rest is silence. 2.75/5.
20th November, 2017
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Poison Ivy by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is a nice way of an olfactory depiction of poison ivy. Quite green in a darker and shaded way, leafy and later on with the woodsy and earthy undertones of the stems.

It is a bit sweeter than what I expected, and with time the woodsy side becomes more dominant.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Initially quite convincing, it soon becomes a tad too generic and synthetic. Not bad though. 2.75/5.
19th November, 2017
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Tomato by Demeter Fragrance Library

This is tomato indeed: tomato leaves, stems, the plant. Fresh and green initially, then richer and a touch less fresh, with an undertone of dried grass.

The drydown reveals a fruity touch, whiffs of peachy impressions than beans in with a somewhat generic floral impression. This all is on top of the dominant features of the tomato truss.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring scent is quite original and in its core well executed. These might not be fried green tomatoes, but the whole composition is not without a surprise. 3.5/5.
18th November, 2017
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Pure Soap by Demeter Fragrance Library

The name is apt: it is indeed a clean soapy impression that this creation exudes: laundry-style clean.

In the early stages an airy peach accord is present. Later on whiffs of chemical floral notes, mainly iris and oleander, come and go. White musks also greet me in the later phase, and towards the end a fresh and contemporary light powderiness makes an appearance.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Pleasant as a concept and in execution, the drawbacks are just too evident: this is as generic and as synthetic as it gets. And unexciting too. 2.5/5.
17th November, 2017
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Zombie for Him by Demeter Fragrance Library

The aroma of wet soil in the forest after the rain - that is what hits my most from the start. It is very well executed and convincing.

In the drydown the impression of mushroom, mildew and wet hay is added, playing with the wet soil motif and complementing it very nicely.

The base gradually develops a themes of soft and gentle mossy notes, a moss that is quite different form the usual oak moss one might expect here. Towards the end a pleasant woodsy undertone grows in strength and eventually becomes the dominant force in the olfactory symphony.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This is an autumnal beauty: the olfactory image of the forest grounds after the rain. Maybe a bit synthetic, but original and very well conceptualised and crafted. It performs very well too. Great for gardening or nature trips. 3.75/5.
16th November, 2017
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Russian Leather by Demeter Fragrance Library

A tangy opening blast greets me at the start, which is soon morphing into spicy mix.

The drydown continues the theme, and at times the aroma of new suede can be detected, but this has very little to do with genuine Russian Leather - see Chanel, Creed, Santa Maria Novella, Farina etc. This has no birch tar or sandal in it. A somewhat agreeable spice market mix, with touches of camphor and hints of sharpness at times.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a good ten hours of longevity on my skin.

An autumnal spice mix, very synthetic, with little leather and no Russian leather. 2.75/5.
15th November, 2017
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Vanilla Bark by Demeter Fragrance Library

The opening is on the bright side, with bergamot brightening up what is a restrained vanilla opening. He drydown develops a pleasant vetiver, a slim vetiver without much earthiness in it. Additional cinnamon adds depth.

Towards the base, somewhat woodsy components are added, together with a very soft patchouli impression.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

A restrained autumn vanilla scent that is characterised by a refreshing lack of intrusively synthetic components. Overall a bit anaemic, it is pleasant but not great. 2.75/5.
14th November, 2017