Reviews by rbaker

    Showing 121 to 150 of 871.
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    Amor Amor by Cacharel

    A warm round grapefruit-orange creamy opens this top note , with jamine and an delightful white musk mixing with a pleasant lily-of-the-valley accord in the dry down. The base arrives gradually, dominated by wood, tonka and a hint of a synthetic ambergris note. Overall this is a bit unexciting, but quite smoothly blended with a bit of roundness and quite attractive. Good projection and silage with an excellent longevity of nine hours - the latter just is pushing it across the line into a positive score - by the skin of its teeth though.

    06 March, 2014

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    Crown Fougère by Crown Perfumery

    From the beginning to the end this is the archetypical fougère, with lavender, gentle spices and a fern note of astounding quality combining to a wonderful opening. A crisp floral touch, mainly geranium and patchouli, mingles with a supremely balanced moss aroma, with just a refreshing sharpness that is never intrusive. After about six hours it is closer to my skin, and leads to cedar-dominated base, with the patchouli-moss background evident up to the end. The balance in absolutely amazing, and the quality if the ingredients is top-of-the-range. This composition is so classic and timeless that it could have been released fifty or hundred years after it's original launch - it is fresh and never stuffy or musty, and never ceases to exude green elegance. Silage and projection are good, and the longevity is an astounding thirteen hours on my skin. This is the mother of fougères.

    05 March, 2014

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    Iris Gris by Jacques Fath

    The opening note is nothing short of amazing: a smooth iris of sensational quality and richness, with an apricot-peach background and orris. It has a velvety nut-aroma enveloping the iris - tremendously beautiful. In the drydown tuberose is added, and then carnation and lily-of-the-valley emphasise a bright flowery phase. After about three hours the scent is closer to my skin and its character changes into a cedarwood basis, with an echo of the iris still present. The quality of the ingredients is unsurpassed, absolutely sensational, with very good silage and projection initially. Overall longevity on my skin is six hours. This is possibly the most beautiful iris scent I ever encountered, a benchmark for all iris-based fragrances in the future, especially in the first half. One of the greats of fragrance history.

    04 March, 2014

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    Cologne Grand Luxe by Fragonard

    A light, delightfully orange-lemon scent with a nice Begamot thrown in. More on the elegant side, with a touch of lavender added in the drydown. Silage and projection are limited and the longevity is a cologne-style two hours. A good summer scent for those who like an elegant and less full-on citrus -based fragrance.

    01st March, 2014

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    Dior Homme Eau for Men by Christian Dior

    I tried this at Macy's in W34th Street in Manhattan, and on my skin the opening was not dissimilar compared to the latest variation of the original I tried, just that it was less complex, with more coriander, and the bergamot and citrus gave the iris more freshness and brightness. A very smooth start, and without too much development on my skin for the first three hours, when I got a switch to a pleasant, albeit synthetic, cedar - but the whole composition is brashly synthetic anyway. Including this second phase, I got five hours of longevity, with good silage and projection. This flanker is not bad, but it is blander that DH, and lacks it's depth, and for a lighter version it is a tad unexciting; hence the neutral score.

    26 February, 2014

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    Trésor Midnight Rose by Lancôme

    The rose and berry is very decent ad in me has a bit if a rich and boozy quality. Later a darker musky notes with a good dose of tonka is added. On my skin this flanker has more depth and richness than the original, and much better silage and projection. Longevity is very good at six hours. The most convincing Trésor so far.

    24 February, 2014

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    Miracle by Lancôme

    The top notes with freesia, lychee and magnolia merge into a rich, intensive floral- fruity peachy mixture that comes off very nicely on my skin. Ginger arrives in the drydown and dampens the sweeter components, that are never overpowering or cloying though, and towards the end a definite lighter amber note is added. Thus all is very well blended and has very good silage and projection. The longevity is superb with nearly ten hours on me. One of the most convincing Lancômes.

    24 February, 2014

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    Hypnôse by Lancôme

    The opening is nice and the passion flower and vanilla result is a sweet floral note that is very pleasant. There is a whiff of vetiver adding freshness, and also jasmine in the drydown. On my skin this is never really very heavy, but in the second half the vanilla really takes over and makes the last phase a bit boring. Not bad, though, with reasonable silage and projection, with five hours of longevity.

    24 February, 2014

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    Poême by Lancôme

    The opening is quite unique on my skin, with the mix of rose, poppy, freesia and other flowers, resulting in a voluptuous, rich and and dense aroma. The drydown adds a honey-vanilla note that fits in very nicely. Very good silage and projection, with a longevity of over four hours on my skin. Very classic and traditional with a subtle twist. Very nice.

    23 February, 2014

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    La Vie Est Belle by Lancôme

    The pear - not an infrequent component in Lancôme products - with berry notes is fairly sweet but never cloying. Tonka, iris and jasmine determine the drydown and are overall well done, with a hint of patchouli added. Adequate silage and projection with three hours of longevity. A nice one, pleasantly sweet, floral and light - spring comes to mind.

    23 February, 2014

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    Trésor in Love by Lancôme

    On my skin there us more more peach and less rose than in the original in the top notes, and it is more intensive overall. In the later stages the jasmine is also stronger without being overly sweet, and I get a whiff of wood towards the end. Silage and projection are not bad, and I get a longevity of nearly three hours. A bit better that the original on me, although not really a very nice scent that convinces me.

    23 February, 2014

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    Trésor (new) by Lancôme

    Quite bearable but slightly flat mix of rose, apricot and iris that is very ephemeral on my skin. A soft, warm note but overall scoring only neutral, partly due to a longevity of less than two hours on my skin despite generous application.

    23 February, 2014

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    Pleasures by Estée Lauder

    The opening is pleasant, with lilies, peony and rose impression joining in quite nicely - never very sweet or cloying. I do not get much change in the drydown, but after five hours it turns into a clean, white and soapy scent until the end. A tad predictable. Decent silage and development, with an excellent total longevity of nine hours - hence just scraping into the positive overall score.

    21st February, 2014

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    Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

    Frankincense from the beginning, initially freshened up a touch by orange and bergamot. Olibanum, black pepper galore, a sinister, dark cathedral-feel incense with a harsh tangy edge. Later a dark patchouli comes to the fore, again with a harsh side but more mainstream than the one, for instance, in Purple Patchouli. In the base I get a good injection of oud wood and some cedar, all of a respectable quality and very well blended. There is also some amber in the base that, together with the structure, reminds me a bit of Harem Noir, but the latter is saturated with virtually all amber and without this incense. Compared to Amouage's Interlude, one of my incense benchmark scents, Interlude is smoother and softer on my skin. Silage and projection are stunning, and I get nine hours of longevity. A very good winter incense fragrance.

    20th February, 2014

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    Andy Warhol for Men by Andy Warhol

    Tarragon, basil and some grapefruity freshness constitute the top notes, before the jasmine develops that remains the core way into the drydown. Not really sweet, it is well balanced. The base has wood - not a great one but a reasonable one, and a whiff of musk. A green-floral-fruity concoction in essence. And not a bad one at all. Not hiding synthetic components, these are well composed and blended in this flexible and inoffensive scent. Good for the office on cooler summer days. Five hours longevity.

    20th February, 2014

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    Bleu Marine by Pierre Cardin

    The opening displays bergamot and a wormwood-like note that soon sees labdanum added, before it turns greener in the drydown, with basil being more prominent. These phases combine a summery freshness with a chypre tone, especially when in the base a chypre-style patchouli component is added, but I get only a tiny touch of moss. Silage and projection are good, with an overall longevity of five hours. A summer scent, nothing earthshattering but solid.

    18 February, 2014

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    Ambro by Jacomo

    Amber, Mint, bergamot, neroli - fresh amber! A rarity of delicious richness in the opening blast, whilst never heavy. The drydown adds cinnamon for warmth, and a classic lavender, with patchouli gradually increasing its rôle. Tonka is the harbinger of the base after the first seven hours, where sandalwood and musk and a lovely moss note create a white, powdery barbershop scent, just enough moss and chypre sharpness to give it a gently edgy feel. Very good silage and projection, with a sensational total longevity of fifteen hours. A superb take on amber - great in autumn.

    17 February, 2014

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    Eau de Quinine by Crown Perfumery

    This was launched at a time Quinine scents were popular, with Trumper's version released only a few years later. Crown's Eau de Quinine's opening blast is what it's name states; the quinine having a boozy G and T touch. A very nice bergamot is adding more freshness, and coriander a touch of spiciness. A very beautiful slightly adstringent petitgrain fits in very well. After the first couple of hours it fades into a very pleasant non-sweet white soapy powderiness that remains close to my skin. Beautifully blended from high-quality ingredients. Good initial silage and projection, with a total longevity of about four hours on my skin. A classic that can be still enjoyed today.

    16 February, 2014

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    Eau de Quinine by Pinaud

    A citrus opening immediately is followed by the archetypical quinine note. Refreshing, simple but good, with a touch of booziness. Decent projection but poor longevity of less than two hours - so multiple frequent re-applications are needed - they tend to not breat the bank though. Great.

    16 February, 2014

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    L'Occitan by L'Occitane

    Lavender and pepper hit me from the start, a soft pepper that is not too spicy. Soon a very decent cinnamon appear, and later a medium-dark musk with a rich dose of tonka is added. Comforting, a dense and rich scent that is not very transparent on my skin but never cloying. Good-quality ingredients, good silage and projection, and a longevity of five hours. A good winter-warmer.

    15 February, 2014

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    Cristobal Pour Homme Eau de Cologne D'Orient by Balenciaga

    This is one of those flankers that declare their ancestry openly: an opening similar to Cristobal PH with coriander, but the white pepper is more dominant with an added whiff of a light incense impression. In the drydown on my skin the geranium is more dominant, and in the base sandalwood and tonka form the core of this scent. Overall on me this is smoother and with a bit of incense. Outstanding blending, ultra-smooth and superb overall quality, with good silage and projection - with only four hours of longevity - but it is a Cologne after all.

    15 February, 2014

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    Carlo Colucci Uomo by Carlo Colucci

    The opening blast is interesting, a traditional
    orange-bergamot combination with cinnamon and cardamom giving it warmth and some extra gentle spice. This first stage is not super-creative, but pleasant and solid. On my skin, however, this scent becomes somewhat generic in the second half: the notes of wood and a rather dull amber are not as good as the beginning. Silage and projection are good, and I get three hours of longevity. Overall a good and a dull phase make the neutral score.

    14 February, 2014

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    Escape for Men by Calvin Klein

    The top notes of eucalyptus, birch leaf and grapefruit are a very nice, fresh and unusual idea. The drydown adds sage and fir impression with good effect, but the base with its generic patchouli and vetiver is a bit of fruity chaos and not convincing. Synthetic, for sure, but the initial phase nonetheless gives nice aromas, especially the eucalyptus - no koalas though. Although the end is not as good, this scent is just at the border between neutral and positive, but the great silage, good projection and an enormous longevity of twelve hours make it a thumbs-up. For spring or autumn.

    13 February, 2014

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    A*Men Pure Shot by Thierry Mugler

    The mint-freshness of the opening with its juniper vibe is nice, as is the light white pepper note. Later a wood impression with a patchouli that is very restrained on my skin. Whilst the summery
    top notes are convincing, the rest is quite mediocre. Limited silage and projection with three hours of longevity.

    12 February, 2014

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    Lanvin for Men by Lanvin

    The opening is classic-phantastic: bergamot, clary sage, a great petitgrain with a bit of citrus - green with a touch of freshness and a whiff of booziness. The drydown veers a bit to the discretely floral, with jasmine, a nice carnation note and a bit of a darker rose added. Green and discretely floral - delightful. The base does not get too heavy; oregano, labdanum and a whiff of a light moss, with a subdued leather lining. This classic composition in it's green-floral-richness with a tilt towards chypre reminds me of a more elegant version of dunhill's Blend 30, and some features are reminiscent of Courreges PH. Blended exceedingly well of top-grade ingredients, with splendid silage and projection. The longevity is absolutely amazing at around thirteen hours. In all aspects a masterpiece by Lanvin for autumn.

    11th February, 2014

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    Original Santal by Creed

    The opening has cinnamon and juniper with the coriander joining in a bit later, there is a hint of sandalwood it takes a while to develop noticeably. It is more obvious in the drydown, but remains in the background whilst a nice ginger with rosemary are in the dominant roles. Later a very nice tonka -neither too sweet nor cloying- gradually grows stronger and takes over the base eventually. This "Santal" is a bit of a misnomer, like a violin fan seeing announced a violin concerto but then a Haydn Symphony is performed. It is not truly a sandalwood-centred scent like Creed's Bois de Santal or the more subtle Santal Impérial, and I can see why some see it as a spicy or nearly a gourmand fragrance. Indubitably, though, the silage and the projection are outstanding, and the longevity is unreal and amazing, especially for Creed: Fourteen hours! Great for autumn on cold days.

    10th February, 2014

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    White Flowers by Creed

    Gorgeous opening with a lot of apple blossom with a smidgeon of lemon cream. The drydown enters with violet and a convincing geranium note, with a lovely jasmine added later - a rich summery bouquet of delicate elegance. In the base I get white musk - the end phase being more linear than the earlier stages. Beautifully blended of ingredients of the highest quality, with decent silage and projection. I get a longevity of nearly five hours, which is SFC = superb for Creed.

    09 February, 2014

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    Sandalo by Etro

    From the starting moment I am getting a soft, elegant sandalwood note that is intermingled with orange and a soft rose. In the drydown it turns more floral; the rose is complemented by geranium, remining me of the scents of my childhood. Later a very gentle amber/patchouli note with vanilla forms a gradually fading base. The sandal is always embedded in the orchestra of the other scents and never is a solo performer. Beautifully blended of high-quality ingredients, with decent silage and projection; total longevity is over six hours. A fine sandal+ scent for warmer autumn days.

    08 February, 2014

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    Neroli 36 by Le Labo

    Le Labo's names can be a bit like Oxford May Balls - rarely in May. Here neroli is present in the background in the first few hours, but never dominating - that is left to orange blossom with mandarin, whilst in the drydown jasmine and a decent rose come to the fore. Tonka takes charge in the base, so overall a white flowery composition with a tonka base. A bit unexciting and not exactly hyper-original, but exceedingly well blended of top-quality ingredients - just narrowly thumbs-up.



    07 February, 2014

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    Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

    The first minutes I get a dark and harsh patchouli, but soon it is as if a cloud of black smoke has descended. It is a harsh, open-fire smoked-ham-with-Oolong note, with transient whiffs of asphalt, and without any Knize-Ten-style petrol on my skin. The beginning has a few touches that indeed remind me if Bvlgari Black's opening. There is clearly a lot of deliciously rough birchwood involved, developing into a rich, intense and edgy leather scent. After about three hours it mellows and is closer to my skin, with a mild vanilla that is never really very sweet on me - the beast is tamed. And a hair-on-the-chest tough beast it is: This is not wearing a tender silk gown like Chanel's Cuir du Russie, and it lacks the fresh elegance of Creed's CdR masterpiece. Le Labo's Patchouli 24 is a brilliant and gutsy exercise in birchwood and leather, with patchouli more an afterthought after the initial blast. Le Labo' names can be a bit like Oxford's Bachelor of Civil Law, which is really not a Bachelor's degree at all. The scent, however, is splendid, with good silage and projection in the first phases and a total longevity of nearly seven hours. Great stuff!

    05 February, 2014 (Last Edited: 04 February, 2014)

    Showing 121 to 150 of 871.