Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

Advertisement
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

L'Agent by Agent Provocateur

The opening blast displays a nice balance between the floral and the crisp, with the ylang-ylang and the slightly boozy angelica finding their balancing counterpart is a mildly peppery note. Later in the drydown, however, the floral side definitely takes over, with a pleasant geranium and jasmin in the foreground; osmanthus and a nice rose are also present.

The base takes a different direction; here amber and a medium-heavy patchouli with vanilla and musk set the tone; the base is definitely less floral-centric than earlier phases, and in my skin it is a tad more generic and less convincing than its predecessors

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate, and I get five hours of longevity.

A nice floral spring scent, initially crisper than the original, with the floral core also a bit different form the original version. A pleasant flanker. 3/5
08th February, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Eau de Néroli Doré by Hermès

A heavy neroli of medium brightness dominates this creation for beginning to end, with the saffron providing a background and some counterweight.

The neroli is as chemical as it gets, intrusive and at times of a nauseatingly synthetic quality. This is miles from being a good, convincing neroli. In this case clever chemical substitutes backfire and create a parody of a good neroli. This is a shame, as Hermès has, of course, produced sublime scents over the years, and Ellena's drive to replace nature with petrochemical molecular minimalism had produced some convincingly noteworthy successes in the past.

The performance is good, with strong sillage, excellent projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This fragrance induced nausea and a headache in a person sitting next to me that usually has no problems with scents, so people sensitive to fragrances might try a very small sample initially. 1.5/5.
07th February, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate by Hermès

This is rhubarb all right, from he beginning to the end. A heavy, synthetic and at times distortedly shrill rhubarb that is not really very nuanced in any way.

The performance on my skin in good, with strong sillage, excellent projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Worth a try in soring if you love petrochemical rhubarb. I will now enjoy some real stuff. The stuff that grows in nature.
07th February, 2016
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Matsuri by Annayaké

The opening blends ylang-ylang - the main player - with an orange note, and they are soon joined by a mild whiff of clove; the latter is very mild on not likely got scare Dracula away. Then a bit of peony strengthens the floral side, and this all is mixed together.

The drydown is developing a jasmine-lilac duet, and this floral phase is occasionally enhanced by a peony impression. Further towards the end, fruitiness from a peach aroma is evident.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity in my skin.

I can't see much of a holiday in this, unless it's the neighbour's garden. And not a very fragrant garden it is; all the notes are fairly generic and dull on my skin, in spite of being quite synthetic. 2/5
28th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Love's True Bluish Light by Ava Luxe

The golden thread running though this creation is vanilla. No, not the usual, sweet, direct or eccentric in your face vanilla. It is an unusual vanilla that is restrained, always enmeshed with other componenents, never intrusive but equally not particularly restrained. A very fine vanilla indeed.

This vanilla is changing over time. Initially it is interwoven with a fine, light amber, which is soft and pleasant. Then a gentle white musk is its accompaniment for a while, and toward the ends it assumes the flavour of a glass of tepid milk. All theses additional notes came and go in numerous permutations, like variations of a musical theme.

The performance, in all its gentleness, is astounding. The sillage is moderate, the projection good, but the longevity is amazing - thirteen hours on my skin.

This is a surprising and thoughtfully creative twist on the vanilla theme, an elegantly restrained and airy twist; not the usual vanilla as the usual heavy central hitter in a mix of fragrance notes. Not large cumulus clouds, more life fluffy gentle cirrus as harbinger of good weather. 3.5/5
27th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Maitresse by Agent Provocateur

A pleasant white floral basket of top notes, centering around a sweetish ylang-ylang that is not bad but not a particular excelling example of a note based on this particular floral species. There are better ylang-ylangs around indeed.

The drydown sees the rise of a jasmine, which - on my skin - us of the light and bright variety. The base is more influenced by an iris undertone, with a superveninent ambery impression; whiffs of a light white musk and of a mildly tart patchouli are present at times.

The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate, and the longevity is excellent - nine hours.

This is quite a pleasant spring scent, but overall all the notes are quite generic, synthetic and on the dull side. Not bad though - just not very convincing. 2.5/5.

Mistress
does not cause me
Distress
but suffers from
Colourlessness.
27th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Agent Provocateur Strip by Agent Provocateur

The opening is a bit sweetinsh-fresh, with ylang-ylang and geranium being the main protagonists at this early stage, mixing with an orris that lends a slightly spicy hand to he opening duo, with a which of overripe peachy grapefruitness present at times.

In the later stages a nice amber develops, which merges with a sweetish musk to a warms and slightly darker impression; over times the amber divulges a powdery component that is quite nice; a brighter sort of amber.

The sillage is moderate, I get very good projection and an impressive nine hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent, most components are a bit pale and unexciting; the opening blast and the amber notes are the most convincing parts. 2.75/5
26th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Pétale Noir by Agent Provocateur

Two floral lovelies greet at the entry to this olfactory edifice: hyacinth and magnolia - and especially the hyacinth is lovely, and both compliment each other well.

In the drydown they continue, and ylang-ylang and osmanthus add a hint of sweetness; but the quality of these notes is not as convincing as in the top notes.

The base is a pleasant attempt of amber and leather, quite generic and distinctly dull on my skin. The sillage is moderate, the projection limited and the longevity five hours - a but disappointing.

Apart from the floral beginning, the rather synthetic components remain a bit colourless and never reach a really convincing level of depth. Not bad, but the opening blast only brings home the goods.
2.75/5.
26th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Al Mas Attar by Amouage

Ahhhh-nouage Attar!

The delicious opening starts with a darkish-mellow mix of spices, which is counterbalanced by a gorgeous deep Damascene rose rendition; the matter has a smooth and velvety texture. Delicious!

In the drydown saffron and a surprisingly light musk harbinger the development of a turn to the brighter, less heavy and more elegant than rich part of this scent. The real climax, though, are the base notes: sandalwood - in the backgound - and a very convincingly created oud wood, with the characteristic sharp, nigh-mossy tart sharpness, with hints of civet lurking in the backgound - a sheer beauty, although towards the end the sandal does not stand a chance against this powerful oud.

The perfomance is not only above the clouds,
it is Galaxy level: strong sillage, superb projection and an incredible sixteen hours of longevity on my skin - This in Interlude level twelve-cylinder performance power!

The natural quality of the ingredients is sublime, the blending exquisite, and autumn will be fun wearing this!

Up in the clouds this delicious concoction dwells. Kalidasa of Meghaduta fame would have enjoyed the view and divine aroma. 4.5/5
25th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Sandalwood Essence Oil by Arabian Oud

This is, as the name promises, all about sandalwood. A rich, thick, heavy essence, with the real stuff evident thoughout.

The sandalwood starts, deep and sheer, but over times undergoes subtle variations and permutations. It becomes stronger, and then a smokier phase develops. Later on hints of spiciness are added.

Over the second half of its development it gradually mellows and becomes less intensive, now displaying characeristics reminding me of some aspects if Creed's Bois de Santal. It gradually fades gracefully into the final phases

The sillage is quite strong, the projection superb, and the longevity amounts to nine hours on my skin.

A wonderful rendition of sandalwood, more unadulterated than is many other creations - not even the customary contamination with cedar is present here, apart from maybe a hint in the drydown. A supreme delight for sandal lovers. 4.5/5
25th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Perle de Mousse by Ann Gerard

The opening screams aldehydes, with bergamot and a slightly acidic citrus note enhancing the impression of a freshness that is more fresh than very bright in character. A quite crisp galbanum leads into the further development, which turns into the floral realm: gardenia and muguet, then rose,but more in the gentle and fragile side.

The base tries to turn into a chypre-style mix - with bergamot we had a traditional chypre opening note already present - and clove and lentiscus try to imitate a mossy theme with a slightly ambergris-style salty touch - the poor IFRA - stricken perfumers oak moss so to speak. This imitation, as interestingly conceived it may be, is distinctly unconvincing, missing the mark, being more messy than mossy.

The base is a simple vanilla that is blended with a musky component - like so many scents are these days.

No get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

Not a bad creation, with some interesting ideas in the quest of creating a laboratoy - created petrochemical modern chypre; quite synthetic and at times too generic though. In the end it is a bit colourless and dull on my skin. 2.75/5
24th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ciel d'Opale by Ann Gerard

The fruity opening is quite nice, with the quince note pretty well done, and citrus with galbanum supplying freshness of the deeper, less bright side than citrus on its own would do. In the drydown the floral notes include jasmin, but is dominated by a honeysuckle that is as synthetic as dull on my skin - this is no Creed Chevrefeuille!

The base is wood-centred, mainly cedar, with a run-of-the-mill vanilla rounding it off. A bit on the sweet side, but pleasantly so and never cloying.

Moderate sillage, adequate projection and four hours of longevity on my skin.

Overall not bad, but a tad dull on my skin - mediocre and distinctly unexciting; a scent good for spring. 2.5/5.
24th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau by Guerlain

The opening combines citrus notes with bergamot and neroli, but is is less fresh on my skin than the to notes seem to suggest. Not unpleasant, but a bit colourless and with a slightly too synthetic bent. The heart notes soon add some sweetness, mainly a rose aroma and a nice jasmine, than blends in very well with a good, light-hearted iris in the drydown.

The base remains sweet, but the sweetness, which, by the way, is never cloying or too thick. At this stage a well-executed vanilla is dominant, with hints of wood towards the end.

The performance is excellent, with moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity.

This is a nice flanker, that remains interesting throughout the whole development. Not overly synthetic, it is a good for a cooler spring day. 3.25/5.
23rd January, 2016
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Sous le Buis by Gobin Daudé

The opening blast is an entrance to the heavens: an incredibly bright and green explosion of the most beautiful freshness, a mix of galbanum and a light and bright lavender. A uniquely fresh clary sage with nigh-minty characteristics is added too. This opening is of intense beauty, like a flowering spring meadow with a fresh breeze from a river blowing trough the bushes.

It is hard to compare the impression these top notes create - imagine the opening of Creed's Feuille Verte mixed with the opening of Selection Verte, all this mixed with Green Valley's opening and superimposed upon Après l'Ondee. Sensational.

The drydown sees the freshness slightly retreat, and the green herbal-grassy components more in the foreground. At times it reminds me of a superior version of Geoffrey Beene's Bowling Green, at times of Escada's Country Weekend, but is it Green Valley that probably comes closest in the drydown. In the later phase a lovely white floral side is revealed, mainly orange blossom with hints of muguet shining through at times, which gradually transition to the next stage.

The base notes change tack again, and a more restrained impression of spring bushes and boxwoods develops - this might be where the name comes from. The base notes might lack the intense vividness of the to notes, but they fit in very well and make a lovely finale of this olfactory symphony, fading out slowly and gracefully.

The performance is very good with moderate
silkage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin; the last hour it is close to my skin.

The quality of the ingredients is astoundingly incredible, clearly all natural - I can' my find a hint of synthetic notes in it. Only very, very rarely are such height of mastery - or mistressery - reached in perfumery nowadays; imagine a super-fresh no-frills I'Driu without the theatrics and without the ambition to create a multisensory Gesamtkunstwerk: this is the quality we are talking about in Sous le Buis. The blending is perfect.

With the only minimal reservation being that the base is a little less sensational than the ingenious opening, this is indubitably a grand masterpiece, one of the best perfume creations I have come across in a while. 4.75/5
23rd January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Fatale / Fatale Black by Agent Provocateur

A lovely opening, fruity - although I don't get any really good Mango to speak of - and with a light touch of a white peppery note. The drydown is a floral change, with gardenia - a subdued version - and whiffs of muguet.

The base is richer and deeper, and is a long-distance work horse at the same time: a soft patchouli well balanced by a restrainedly sweet tonka-cocoa gourmandise note - not very fat and intrusive, it is an example where the base is an enhancement in the initial ioening blast. A crescendo fragrance, not a decrescendo one.

The performance is very impressive: moderate sillage, excellent projection and a brilliant thirteen hours (twelve if you're superstitious) of longevity on my skin.

A nice autumn creation that lacks a certain spark and creativity, but that is solidly made. 3/5.
22nd January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionelle by Agent Provocateur

The opening is quite fruity, with a light spicy pepper note. The drydown is floral, with a synthetic rose paired with gardenia together with a herbal undertone, like rosemary and hints of a very delicate tea note.

The base notes centre around a very light musky impression. I get soft sillage, poor projection and four hours of longevity. Overall suitable for spring, but on my skin it remains not only faint after the opening phase, but also dull and colourless. Not bad but not good either. 2/5.
22nd January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tabarom by Antonio Visconti

The opening blast is quite unique in pairing a somewhat stale dry pipe tobacco with a bright and not really harsh patchouli, with a heliotrope undertone thrown in for good freshness. Often discreter tobacco is overwhelmed by stronger ingredients - see the ginger in Creed's Tabarôme Millesimé, but here it is well balanced and the patchouli is not too overbearing.

The drydown temporarily shows some nice jasmine, but soon the tobacco-patchouli claim the stage again, towards the base is enhanced by wood notes, mainly a pleasant pine with hints of cypress - An Italian landscape comes to mind.

The perfomance is excellent, with strong sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of thirteen hours on my skin.

Definitely autumnal in character, whilst the tobacco nite is not particularly exciting, it is overall well blended and the raw material is if very good quality. Very Italian in its feel, it is a nice composition. 3.25/5.

21st January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Safari Blend by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi

The opening is smooth, rich and intense: a bright and light jasmine teams with a beautiful creamy vanilla and a convincing ylang-ylang to form a beautifully, slightly mellow opening. There are wood undertones, which initially are mere backgound support but soon develop further into a pine-centred middle phase. A few brief hints of oud show up here and there, but it hardly registers amongst the ylang-ylang and pine wood.

A slightly fruity and a touch more spicy tones lead into the base, where a light Darjeeling-type tea aroma mixes with musky impressions, whilst residues of the jasmine and wood still remain even at this stage. It never looses that certain intense rich and luscious smoothness that was so impressive at the start.

The performance is very good with moderate sillage, good projection and an excellent nine hours of longevity on my skin. A great oriental winter scent made of ingredients of very high quality. 3.75/5

21st January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi

The opening blast shouts wood, neroli and lavender, resulting in a wood impression that is more on the brighter side, but nonetheless it is an intense, serious start. The drydown introduces a pleasant rose note, mildly sweet and of medium intensity, blending in nicely with the wood.

Now about the wood. Initially is is somewhat nonspecific on my skin, but in the drydown the sandal declares itself. Like all good sandalwoods it is discrete, not intrusive and not easy to catch. It is not of the same unparalleled quality as in Creed's Bois de Santal, is less intense than in Chanel's Bois des Îsles (the original vintage formulation), is less vivid than in Egoïste's Cologne Concentrée and - maybe mercifully for the sandalophile - lacks the cedar that is so often added in (Tam Dao, Le Labo), but it is a very pleasant and convincing specimen made of a high quality ingredient.

The patchouli that arises in the base is unusually soft and mild, and together with a fairly subtle musk tone blends in gently, avoiding an overpowering of the sandalwood, whose delicate structure is often overlooked in fragrances and overwhelmed - see Original Santal.

This is a very good sandalwood and a nice autumn scent. The performance is outstanding, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a superb fourteen hours of longevity. 3.5/5.
20th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Farah by Amouage

The opening is magic - a deep red-glowing rose blended with dark, soft spices and, above all, a wonderful rich velvety rounded natural oud - magic. It transports into another sphere of olfactoric bliss.

The drydown adds a rich and slightly gloomy saffron, with the base notes chracterised by a wooden carpet that is slid under the dominating players of rose and oud, mainly sandalwood, with whiffs of a gentle amber impression arising towards the end. The oud is never sharp, maybe a touch crisp in rare moments, but it completely lacks any harshness on my skin.

I get strong sillage, brilliant projection and an excellent longevity of nine hours.

This is a gorgeous attar. Sensational. The wonderful quality of the natural ingredients, including the oud and the rose, is sheer heaven.

A reminder of the good, old Amouage Attar days of yonder. 4.5/5.
20th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oud Stars : Gao by Xerjoff

Yup - oud, oud and oud are the three main notes I am getting in the beginning. Oh, there is a fourth one: oud! Based on a pleasant saffron carpet, the drydown turns on a deeper and smokier woodsy cypriol undertone - reminiscences of Knize Ten broudeness is felt in the leather - and later on a darkish and fittingly harsh patchouli leads into the base note phase.

Throughout all this, the dominating oud thus undergoes various permutations and variations, but stubbornly remains in the foreground, exuding its raw aroma that is given and even sharper edge by the accompanying patchouli. No soft stuff here. This oud is utterly direct, with oud-derly brute force. This is sheer goudness.

The forcefulness is reflected in its performance, with strong sillage, superb projection and an incredible fifteen hours of longevity on my skin. Now that's what I call top performance.

A great scent for winter. In the current torrent of oud products that had washed over the perfume market for the last few years, many oud scents were launched to follow the fad. This Xerjoff, however, is the good stuff, with some natural high-quasi ingredients, even if the lab has contributed too. Not for the faint-hearted, but for the oud-o-phile. And I don't score popularity, only quality. 3.75/5.
19th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Amber by Brooklyn Perfume Company

This starts off as a fairly bright resinous combination of a caramel candy and a wood component. The latter appears to be nonspecific initially, but over times hints of cedar are evident.

With time a slightly smoky note emerges, not dark but more like whiffs of white smoke, with some reminiscences of the slightly burnt surface of a crème brûlée surface once it has turned cold. A gentle vanilla sweetness is present in the second half, but only very discretely adding some gentle sweetness.

The sillage is moderate, the projection good, and I get an impressive nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a pleasant amber for autumn, more on the lighter side, and well-blended. Good to try for those who dislike the dark, heavy and very smoky versions of amber. 3.25/5
19th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Shameless Seducer by Malbrum

The opening blast is a fresh aldehydic citrus-hesperidic dyad that is given a slightly darker and deeper character due to an overarching cumin impression. The the drydown briefly brings is a slightly floral twist, mainly iris, but soon an amber arises that in the base combines with a light musk note.

The base consists of the combination of the white musk, then ambery note and the residual cumin note that lasts well towards the end on my skin. A somewhat generic woodsy impression is also present at times. The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and I get a splendid thirteen hours of longevity.

This is a pleasant scent for warmer autumn days. The main drawback is that it clearly a tad too synthetic at times, but most of the time that works quite well, the base is quite creative in its structure and combination of notes, and the constituents are well blended. The main plus point is its impressive performance. 3.25/5
18th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

At The Beach 1966 by CB I Hate Perfume

An initial aquatic whiff of a bright and gentle sea breeze mingles with impression of mineralic vibes, sand, and dries wood. There is a hint of ozonic saltiness in the air, that in the drydown is joined by the notes of sun tan lotion and sea shells.

This scent tries to combine two sides that traditionally kept more separate. There is the sea-sand-beach-breeze side, epitomised by the likes of Erolfa and Bergamotto Marino, and the hot-beach-crowd-cum suntan lotion character, so well captured by Fire Island. This CB scent is less vivid and less intensive than these more pure and concentrated approaches, but therefore it manages to combine them well.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin. Overall this composition tries to marry the abovementioned different elements in one fragrance, not by separating them into separate sequentially presented phases, but by mixing then together in a concurrent pattern. And this is done well. 3.25/5.
18th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate by Comme des Garçons

The opening blast and its aftermath are both delicious: a soft, approachable, darkish, friendly and never sinister incense note that is not smoky on my skin. In the drydown hints of herbs and greens are present at times, but the core message Ouarzazate conveys is: incense rules!

The drydown develops a fairly light musky theme, but the base is really defined by adding a very pleasant labdanum that at times combines with the ever present incense to a nigh-balsamic mix at times, with a hint of tonka sweetness evident in the last third. A touch of wood is present now too. Towards the ends the sweetness recedes, and the incense note fades out gradually.

The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent, and I get six hours of longevity out of it.

This is a lovely winter scent, with a fairly unusal and well blended incense core that shows a side of incense not commonly developed in these types of fragrances. 3.25/5

17th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Aqua Universalis by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A lovely bright summery lemon with a bergamot background - a classic traditional opening blast for an Eau de Cologne. Soon a brief white floral interlude appears, mainly muguet and some generic white notes. After the first thirty minutes this fresh opening recedes to give more leeway to the floral side, which soon in replaced by a generic musky base that remains very nondescript on my skin.

The sillage is soft, the projection is all right, and I get two hours of shortevity on my skin.

Whilst I generally accept the lack of stamina and of longevity in a traditional Eau de Cologne due to the ephemeral volatility of the classic constituents, especially the citrus notes, I expect certain quality indicators to be satisfied before I am willing to give a positive score in the face of poor performance of a Cologne: either a somewhat creative twist to the fragrance composition, or excellent quality of the, preferably natural, ingredients. And I don't get either of these two in this EdC. It is universally average.

Hence in summary this is not a bad scent for a summer's day, but nothing more than a pleasant average Eau de Cologne. 2.75/5.

17th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d'Orange

The opening is a violet-citrus note mingling with a restrained ginger; pleasant but a tad colourless and not very vivid when I wear it.

The drydown develops a soft leathery theme that is not bad; it is a softish new leather with no tannin in sight. A gentle amber notes arises further down the olfactoric tract, and is accompanied by a terser, adviser sidekick that at times has a sharp civety undertone, and feels like a synthetic oak-mossy aroma at times. Towards the base a sweet note, a powdery slightly tonka-infused thems is added and gradually moves in the foregroung, dominating the last four hours of the development together with the ambery note, never to sweet or cloying and fading out slowly. This latter part has a sensous feel that might possibly be a reflection of its name.

The performance is outstanding, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a tremendous longevity of nearly thirteen hours in my skin.

A pleasant autumn fragrance, not particularly exciting at times but better at others. Just at the border between neutral and positive, the second half's good blending and the excellent perfomance tip the balance to a positive score - by the skin of its teeth though. 3/5.
16th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Cologne by Etat Libre d'Orange

Orange, bergamot, jasmine - it can't get more traditional, a archetypical Eau de Cologne style, refreshing, bright, and zesty. Great.

The drydown is a mix of a soft, mild leather with a bit of white musk. A bit bland, and an afterthought to the great top notes.

Not expecting much from this sort of cologne, I moderate sillage, decent projection and nearly three hours of longevity on my skin. Well, certainly a better performance than Eau d'Orange Verte. 3.25/5.
16th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

"Another superficial product utilising shallow celebrity-based marketing strategies" crossed my mind when I applied it to my skin. And I was very pleasantly surprised by the delightful opening blast, with its orangey-herbal opening, a bit of pumpin added, and a well-integrated ginger note interwoven in the whole of the top notes. Unlike in some scents where the ginger clearly dominates - Creed's Tabarôme Millesimé comes to mind - here the ginger is not an olfactoric soloist, but more of a team player.

The drydown turns floral, and it is really an immortelle drydown, although a discrete neroli adds brightness to it. Then later, unlike many other scents whose best parts are usually the top notes, 'Like This' remains convincingly impressive by serving up a lovely vetiver note. It has an earthy touch, but it is not all earthy smokiness like in the 'Fat Electrician'; it is quite a balanced vetiver, albeit more on the earthy than on the fresh side of the vetiver spectrum. Add in a pleasant white musk and the base it a delight too.

The performance is brilliant with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of fifteen hours on my skin - wow!

A very nice scent for spring days, this is well blended and a top performer. 3.75/5
15th January, 2016
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d'Orange

A reasonable jasmines combined with tobacco - that is exactly the opening I am getting. They are both balancing each other well. The tobacco very clearly is cigarette tobacco, industrial cigarette tobacco á la Marlboro, a mix of fresh unsmoked cigarette tobacco and its ashes, with at times whiffs of dried grass and fruity elements evident. This is well done.

The drydown adds a musky-ambery note that is too generic to be of any further interest, but the tobacco remains until the end and remains the core persistent component throughout the longitudinal development on my skin.

The performance is on the less impressive side, with moderate sillage, adequate projection and a mere four hours on longevity on my skin.

A scent for warmer autumn days, it is characterised by the jasmine-cigarette central accord that is convincing indeed, and overall this - just - justifies its - barely - positive score. 3/5.
15th January, 2016