The top notes consist of a somewhat nonspecific berry fruit mix, poured into a mixer and left standing for a while. There is a whiff of bergamot present at times, as a whiffs of peach. An overlying thin layer of aldehydes adds a fresh impression.
Later on, heading towards the heart notes, a touch of styrax combines with a medium-bright fairly light tuberose impression, with a gentle iris confirming to switch from being fruit-dominated towards floral heart notes; later strengthened by a violet tinge.
Then a very restrained and slightly creamy vanilla heralds the arrival of the base note phase. Through all its developement there is all was a well-behaved sweetness present, which is never strong, never intrusive and never cloying.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.
This is unusual spring creation, at times a bit generic, it develops over time into a subtle but very agreeable composition that is delicate and times and overall well balanced, albeit a bit lacking in intensity at times. The excellent performance lifts into the positive realm - if just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
The opening with the mildly spicy sweet angelica is not bad, but this mix remains somewhat attenuated and dull on my skin. The drydown adds almonds with whiffs of fresh raisins.
The most interesting part of this composition follows a bit later on: The almond aroma remains, and is accompanied by a pleasant vanilla impression. Over time - over a very long time that is - the vanilla moves into the foreground and the almond aroma fades away gradually. Whilst the vanilla is the main accord, at times it is accentuated by fleeting whiffs of a gently spicy anise undertone; and a very restrained and soft white musky note is greeting me too from time to time.
The performance is splendid, with moderate sillage, excellent projection and a stupendous longevity of sixteen hours on my skin.
The first part of this autumnal creation - good for colder days and evenings - is quite nice, but certainly not particularly brilliant. The second, the vanilla-centred longest part on the other hand, is well executed. The minimally powdery, smooth and elegantly creamy vanilla-based core chord has characteristics that at times remind me of the infamous Guerlinade, but a slimmer, lighter but less complex and less textured and simplified contemporary version of it.
Whilst then first parts are a bit flat and hovering at the border between neutral and positive, and whilst this is definitely not the scent pour le plus beau jour de ma vie, the virtues of the later stages push it - just - across the line into positive territory. For the vanilla lover. 3/5.
Orange, blackberry - the fruit - and apple notes: sweetish, not really very sweet, with added nonspecific florals in the drydown, and overall quite generic.
The base continues the generic theme, with a musky vanilla that is rather pale
The sillage is moderate, the projection adequate and the longevity six hours.
Even for this line it is very synthetic and generic. Frolicking without substance and even that is not convincingly executed. 1.75/5.
A fruity-fruity sweet opening: I get mandarin, peach and a raspberry mix, and if the sweetness meant vitamins, sniffing this would be a healthy popsicle feat indeed.
Interestingly, whilst this is unashamedly a sweet fragrance, its sweetness is never annoying or cloying.
In the drydown the peach, now with whiffs of sweet apple juice attached that nmbkend in well; unfortunately the notes are less specific and less convincing than were the top notes. The base displays a rather generic woodsy note with an equally bland vanilla.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
For those who like their perfumes sweet, fruity, young, frivolous and sugary with some candy vibes, this spring scent is worth trying. Clearly nothing extraordinary and overly synthetic throughout, it is quite well executed otherwise and never heavy or intrusive. 2.5/5.
On my skin the vetiver is present from the beginning; a clean vetiver, quite bright with no significant earthiness or harsh sides. Combined with a somewhat underwhelming bergamot, it is quite a pleasant entry combination.
In the drydown woodsy accords combines with a rise impression, which remains rather subdued jolds back too much to make a truly lasting impression. There is an agreeable but somewhat unexciting vanilla added towards the end, which is well executed nonetheless. I get, however, very little of the milky way promised in the name.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity eight hours.
Like so often, the top notes are the most convincing part of the development of this creation, and in this case nomen est omen indeed - this is a vetiver-centred spring scent, at least for them first half. The rest is somewhat inferior overall, but the pleasant albeit a bit standard vanilla as well as the solid quality of the ingredients sees it through to cross the line to a positive score - albeit just by the skin of its teeth. 3/5.
A bergamot opening embedded in a white floral blend - I get peony and hints of of lily-of-the-valley above all. This is given a nice twist with an infusion of a fresh-peachy aroma that balances out the floral side very pleasantly.
In the drydown the white florals move into the foreground, with a subtle jasmine, orange blossoms and a creamy foundation underneath, but less intensive than the top notes. The base continues the same theme, with nonspecific woodsy and light musky aromas added to it.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
A not very original but otherwise impeccable floral-fruity opening, delicate but smooth and slightly creamy, especially later in the drydown. Unfortunately, the later development on my skin is flatter, more colourless, and the base is disappointing. Overall I struggle to get this into the positive realm. 2.75/5.
Ginger and saffron galore indeed - a smooth and slightly fuzzy saffron, not the more intense version of Comptoir Pacifique's Sultan Safran.
The ginger has a crisp edge that has synthetic-sharpish characteristics and is a bit more of the usual ilk - not the richer juicier ginger that is present in Creed's Tabarôme Millesimé - but it is not badly done, and works quite well with the saffron here.
Gradually the gingery note morphs by adding the oud, which gradually grows stronger and blends in with the he ginger, to revolve into the main component by the time the base notes unfold. This is a far cry from the hyperaggresive-superchemical oud attacks on is exposed to so frequently these days.
Galbanum is added at the begin of the heart notes, as is a soft, gentle and refreshingly unobtrusive incense impression that never pushes into the limelight - a glowing, intense but restrainedly low-key incense endowed with touches of elegance. No aggressive peppers, no ceremonial pomp, no exotic market aromas, and no medicinal undertones - this is a pared-down and convincingly focused velvety incense that blends in beautifully with the rest.
Initially accompanied by a gentle musky undertone, this delightfully wood-infused incense forms the core notes in the base phase on my skin.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and a supreme fourteen hours of longevity on my skin.
This wintery oud-incense creation is unusually balanced and well executed; and whilst it is creative only for part of its development, it is overall surprisingly well made. 3.5/5.
Cardamom, cyclamen and heliotropes - and that with a dash of light pepper - resulting in a pleasant dish of top notes. Quite original and well balanced, with the pepper being quite restrained and more a condiment than in the foreground. This is not a heavily spicy opening.
The drydown and floral undertones, a soft patchouli above all, and is followed by mixed woods that lead into - and later on dominate - the base. They are mainly cedar, a light cedar without any heavy pencil shavings.
This base lingers on, pleasantly woody and fades gradually.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and eleven hours of longevity on my skin.
An agreeable autumn creation, well blended, a touch creative in the opening and well balanced, with the synthetic notes not overtly chemical. 3.25/5.
The opening posts a vetiver that is accompanied by saffron and nutmeg, and two of these three are quite generic - only the nutmeg - as bland as it is - shows some individual characteristic that might possibly be convincing.
The next phase of florals, led by a rose note that is of limited interest, launches into and ambroxan-vanilla duo that is again quite generic, although at times the vanilla comes across quite nicely at times; and the vanilla is actually not particularly sweet on my skin.
The main course (or curse) of the base menu consists of this very ambery note, combined with a loud, crisp and penetrating styrax; a nonspecific woodsy undertone is also present. This all together develops into one of these highly intrusive, aggressive and overly synthetic woody-chemico-oud cocktails, straight out of the laboratory and reminding me of certain wood polishes. Now such cocktails are found a lot in contemporary fragrances, but here it tops off what is in general a less-than-convincing creation. This pseudo-oud has nigh toxic vibes - maybe that is where this product's name is derived from.
I get strong sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.
This autumnal scent is not bad, but quite mediocre. 2:5/5.
White musky opening aromas greet me in the opening moments - and they are the core note in the first phase of the development of this creating. Hints and mandarin and grapefruit, and a rather synthetic ambery background make themselves felt in the drydown, as does a light patchouli
In the base a pleasant, sweet but not cloying tonka note develops, with heavy lashings of benzoin draped over it like a smooth veil. A contemporaneous creamy light powderiness is the main accompaniment in the base.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity a respectable ten hours on my skin.
A pleasant and smooth autumn scent for colder days, is is a nice scent apart from a certain predictability and at times a nigh-generic synthetic undertone. 2.75/5
The jasmine only arrived after the - initially dominating - muguet. This white floral is pleasant, very smooth, and endowed with a level of sweetness that is spot-on - sweet, not heavy or cloying, but more an elegant and light-hearted sweetness.
Then the jasmin comes to the fore, again a nice jasmine although not a brilliant or sensation representative of this note. The tuberose - on my skin more accompaniment hay soloist - blends in nicely. It is, again, not a fat or heavy and waxy tuberose, but a lighter and elegant version. There develops, slowly, an underlying clean soapiness than increasingly grows stronger and moves into the foreground by the time the basenote ohasenis reached.
This base is heavily skewed towards a rather unexciting ambroxan core, with a white musky impression woven into it. These are fading gradually, and the clean musky soapiness constitutes this creation's olfactory coda.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.
A very agreeable spring day scent, with only the base being a bit too generic. This hovers just between a neutral and a positive score, but the overall well executed top and heart notes push it across the line into the thumbs-up territory - albeit just so. 3/5.
The opening with apple, pear and lilac is enhanced pleasantly by a honeysuckle impression - nice and agreeable but not overwhelmingly brilliant. The drydown is a white floral mix, and ylang ylang gives it added depth.
The base is disappointing on my skin - light woodsy notes with ambery whiffs and touches of coumarin - but quite bland and the least impressive part of the whole.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity seven hours.
A pleasant spring scent with nice too notes, but the base is not on the same levels. The ingredients are good but not exceptional - this is not Creed's Chevrefeuille. It is, however, not very sweet and thus worth trying if you like this sort of scent but not too sweet. 2.75/5.
Green tea with a citrus background and a good measure of osmanthus, with a bamboo notes that is nicely done. A very pleasant opening phase.
The drydown adds white floral impressions, with mimosa being the most clearly discernible on my skin, and there gently peppery a whiffs at times. The drydow is not as convincing as the top notes, but overall it is a good way to follow on from the beginning.
The base has a lot of things happening in it, but is it all is a bit of a blur, with white musk, and woodsy components evident.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and seven hours of longevity.
The first half in this summery creation is the convincing part, but the rest is a tad generic, quite is contrast to the opening. Overall 2.75/5.
The opening's assortmentp of dried written fruit with a good lashing of overripe bananas, the blackish and rotten sort. Soon the aroma of a damp forest ground, the earth of a meadow, develops, but without and of the wood and forest notes that a so incomparably beautifully captured in dunhill's Blend 30. It a dark, skanky and threatening moist environment, and a world apart from the gently moist atmosphere in Apres l'Ondee.
The base adds more musky notes, a bit brightened by whiffs of a light vetiver in the backgound, and gradually the rotten and skanky side recedes to give ways for a touch of vanilla to restrainedly sweeten the end phase a bit.
I get strong sillage, excellent projection and a great longevity of ten hours in my skin.
A beastly and skanky composition, with huge lashings of geosmin that, whilst being a very nice representation of the damp earth, lacks the depth, richness and nuances of the other scents mentioned above. Still, it is original and good fun. Great for an afternoon crawling in caves. You don't have to be batty to like this one - just maybe a bit fruity. 3.25/5
Monty P., where is Eric the fruit-bat?
The opening is a mix of mimosa, violet and iris, a lovely and gentle combination that leaves enough structure for the individual components to express themselves. An opening that is more caressing than invigorating.
The drydown adds touches of a somewhat less defined rose, and later in the base orris and vanilla form a smooth and soft base. Initially a whiff is a soft patchouli is evident, a patchouli without sharpness or darkness though.
The core of the base is characterised by a rounded and restrained sweetness that is very well balanced and never intrusive or cloying. The vanilla-orris dyad carries the day.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity a brilliant twelve hours in my skin.
A smooth and creamy spring floral for cooler days and evenings that is well blended and good-quality ingredients. Some features appear traditional and some are more contemporaneous. A versatile creation. 3.5/5
The opening is a crisp and fairly bright floral-green impression, but the main ingredient soon takes centre stage - a pleasant castoreum, with the latter's synthetic component kept in check by notes of iris and whiffs of violet.
Later on a restrainedly early ambery notes underpins and equally unobtrusive vanilla, with a somewhat generic woodsy note lurking in the background.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity an excellent eleven hours on my skin.
Nice in autumn, this is a castoreum-centric cent worth trying for lovers of this note. At times a bit too synthetic and a tad generic, it is otherwise a respectable creation. 3/25/5
This is a pungent and sharp opening blast - bergamot, bitter artemisia, lavender, and oud sharpness with a herbal and slightly boozy undertone.
Soon this is combined with the crisp impression of a leather workshop with tannin and the aroma of new leader ware stacked against the wall. A sharp chemical musky impression is quite overwhelming; this is not a gasoline sharpness like in Knize 10; and at times it has a nigh-urinal characteristic, but after the first hours the pungency softens and the leather takes centre stage.
Now other elements are discernible: coniferous notes, a whiff of light smokiness and and amber; and for the subsequent hours this is more pleasant and traditional. Woodsy notes become a bit stronger towards the end.
I get moderate to strong sillage, excellent projection and ten hours of longevity on my skin.
A real character, this rhinoceros, a good winter scent. At times overly skanky and chemical, is is complex and original enough to deserve a positive score - albeit just, as it is a tad too unbalanced at times. For the times when you play with your pet rhino. 3/5.
Anise, licorice and vanilla form the triumvirate of the initial phase. Very nice, very subtle and very discrete. Weak, really, but distinctive, and taking it all together this is a nice trio of top notes.
In the drydown cardamom and myrrhe develop, but on my skin they never move into a dominant position; they merge seamlessly with the notes that are already present.
The base does not offer much more. The vanilla retreats slowly, and a whiff of a nonspecific freshness hovers over it all.
The sillage is soft, and for the last hours this already very discrete creation is very close to my skin indeed. The projection is limited, but the real surprise is the brilliant longevity of thirteen hours on my skin.
This is a lovely, albeit overly restrained scent for warm autumn days or evening when a discrete scent is needed, e.g. a work function. The quality of vast majority of its ingredients, however, is very good, the blending is done beautifully and all this warrants a positive score. 3.25/5.
From the start the orange reigns supreme, a very good and convincing rendition of orange. Nina fresh and bright orange, it is more on the glowing than the brightly shining side of the spectrum, although a touch of neroli adds some brightness to it.
This remains the core constellation throughout. Initially in the drydown a very nice jasmine is added, and later on woodsy undertones with whiffs of grapefruit are discernible, but the orange remains present throughout, gently fading towards the end.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of lengevity, which is truly formidable for such a citrus-based scent made of largely natural ingredients.
And this high quality of its ingredients elevates this summer scent above average. Whilst being neither a complex nor a particularly original composition, it is very well blended and executed. 3.5/5.
A strong impression of mixed fruit - orange, berries - are the main chords in the opening blast. After a while a strong benzene-petrol note develops, and very gradually this morphs into the central gardenia accord.
This is a heavy and intensive gardenia, waxy and very persistent, with whiffs of tuberose here and then. Otherwise this is a rather linear composition.
I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an an astounding longevity of twelve hours on my skin.
Comparing this with other gardenia creations, e.g. Robert Pigue's treatment of the gardenia, this one is more waxy and bring out a synthetic tone that can be a bit too intrusive. Maybe this is a case of less being more. Still, worth trying for the gardenia aficionado. 2.75/5.
The opening is a mix of fruity, floral and a musky undertone. The fruity side combines the pomegranate, which is not bad, with a slight whiff of mandarine. The floral side is represented by a rose, and the musky is not deep and sinister, but a white and quite bright musk. This opening phase is lovely, with a modicum of originality and well executed.
The drydown spins the rose theme further; is is a bright and light rose, not very rich or deep;
Moremonnthe light-hearted and frivolous side. Jasmine and moment of violet leaf are also present.
The base is the least exciting phase, with a somewhat nonspecific musky core and a thin synthetic chord constituting he core of it; not very convincing.
He sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity six hours on my skin.
Overall this flanker is more impressive than the original, with the first half being not without creative touches, and whilst the latter stages are more average, overall this deserves a positive score. 3/5.
A pleasant orange-citrus with a splash of a good bergamot open the game, with an overlying layer of fruitiness - not a bad combination to start off with, but on me it never goes beyond a somewhat stereotypic and unexciting level, although it is a solid approach.
The drydown is a floral one, a somewhat anemic jasmine trumped by a dominant ylang-ylang. The base never takes off on my skin and remains a rather generic patchouli.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity six hours.
Overall this spring creation is a nice effort, but the opening notes are not convincingly defined and not specific enough, and the base is quite generic. 2.75/5.
The aroma of overripe sweet orangey citrus with a rather synthetic bergamot and whiffs of a nonspecific floral component form an opening that is pleasant but not really particularly exciting.
Soon the jasmine that gives this creation its name develops, and whilst a bit anemic in my skin it is not a bad rendition of a jasmine note. That said, is is not a special or remarkable jasmine either.
The base has the usual ambery/musky synthetic mix, with a rather weak attempt to add a honeyed and syrupy impression.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.
Not a bad jasmine-centred spring daytime creation but not really good either. 2.75/5
03rd October, 2016 (last edited: 02nd October, 2016)
A lemony citrus opening greet me from the start, with a good lashing of fruitiness superimposed - I get nashi, pear, maracuja and a touch of booziness on top of it.
The drydown adds a rather nonspecific floral note but soon makes a turn to sweeter olfactory regions. A sweet cocoa note is quite restrained on my skin, but quite present and affords a bit of a change hat is welcome here.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity six hours.
Pleasant in summer, a bit too synthetic, not bad but nothing special. 2.75/5.
A pleasant commencement based on a citrus base, more lemony on my skin, that has a fruity component admixed to it. After the first minutes it is enriched with a white floral drydown, and the whole is a typical summer offering.
Whilst hitherto it was already a bit generic and synthetic, the base is a musky-woodsy soup straight from the chemistry lab, and is mega-generic and ultra-synthetic.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity five six hours on my skin.
Frequent re-applications are needed and then it is a pleasant warm-weather scent - avoiding the base. 2.75/5.
A fruity-lemony opening - crisp and fresh indeed - that is followed by a white floral drydown with hints of a rather thin rose veneer. The base is built around a woodsy-musky drydown that is difficult to distinguish from the umpteen other products with these notes that are released on a nigh-daily basis.
Sillage is soft, the projection adequate and the longevity four hours.
A summer scent that does what the name promises - refresh - but in a very generic manner. 2.75/5
The fruity opening is loaded towards apricot and distinctly peachy sides, with the raspberry remaining in the background on me. The heart notes constitute a determined shift towards the heavily floral, with lily-of the valley, rose and jasmine forming a triumvirate of floral supremacy; only occasionally is the initial fruitiness shining through.
The base notes are centred around white musk and vanilla, with the latter adding more sweetness to what the previous components already contributed to this creation. The sweetness with the musk works quite well and develops light and elegant rays of a restrained lipstick accord with whiffs of a bright and youthful powderiness towards the end.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good, and the longevity amounts to six hours on my skin.
This is a confidently sweetish-fruity-floral spring scent, which seems to target the gender-stereotype of the young and girly TYTs. This is congruent with the design of the very chic bottle, which reflects the elegant lines of Charles Jourdan's famous shoes of the period with their famous transparent ultra-high heels. Whilst many houses nowadays seem to presume that this target group only deserves trashy perfumes, Très Jourdan shows that there is an alternative: a sweetish, playful and colourful creation with a touch of substance, the average Victoria's Secret with a touch of class and quality so to speak. Not a great one but a fun one, with ingredients of acceptable quality. For those who don't like its sweetness this might not be the right choice. 3.25/5.
TYT here = trendy young things.
The fresh, summery opening notes are heavily weighted towards citrus, with hedione and aldehydes forming an underlying carpet of crispness that combines very nicely with the citrus components. This is, however, not a direct burst of invigorating freshness but more a restrained freshness with a touch of elegance. This opening is done nicely. Alas I am not so sure all the subsequent notes are too.
The paradigmatic and iconic rose chord that is a central part of the original No.5 is quite toned down hereand additional floral tones are added, mainly ylang-ylang on my skin. The base is really a weak spot here, with the woodsy as well and the musky constituents being too generic to be able to follow on with the standards set by the top notes; it is quite a disappointment.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.
This is a bloodless shadow of the original, but it is quite nice overall. Chanel certainly has created worse scents in the more recent past, and this is definitely not one of their best works. It is hard to score, hovering just between the border between neutral and positive. Unfortunately, the outright generic synthetic character of the base really spoils it a bit, whilst on the other hand there is a touch of elegance permeating the whole development, albeit only a far-flung echo reflecting from the grand original version. In the end it - just - scrapes home by the skin of its teeth. 3/5
A nonspecific white floral note - sweet and quite permeating in this - is followed but a fresher drydown. A light neroli impression do it's the drydown, but it is not very a very typical neroli and it lacks any texture.
Later an very bland ambery-musky base develops that fades out gradually.
The sillage is moderate, the projection excellent and the longevity seven hours on my skin.
Victoria's Secret has a penchant for penetrating my and nauseatingly sweet creations - that is no secret. In its sugary candy quality this spring scent is quite typical for this house, and its very generic and synthetic nature does not help. 1.75/5.
This is a refreshing detour from the sickly sweetening usual VC offerings. It starts with a fruity mix, with fresh plum, hints of apricot, and is not unpleasant.
The drydown consists of a nonspecific woodsy impression, with an underlying fruitiness still less present, but overall lacking prominent sweetness on my skin.
I get moderate sillage, good projection and six hours of longevity.
A pleasant spring scent, not particularly sweet but quite synthetic. Still, not bad for VC albeit nothing special either. It has a touch of being less frivolous and is suitable for evenings, but in spite its name it is not restricted to that time of the day. 2.75/5.