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This is the first time I've shared a perfumer's vision of a fragrance as a representational image. En Passant really is a snapshot of lilacs next to a bakery. Imagine the scent of lilacs early in the morning so their fragrance is watery, delicate and slightly green. Supporting that is an aura of cool, dewy grass and green leaves. For me, this floral/green accord conjures a very specific time and place from my childhood in the upper midwest. This aspect of En Passant could stand on it's own as a fragrance.
13 March, 2012
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I received Onice as a freebie sample from LuckyScent. As everyone has mentioned, Onice starts out very green. But it isn't long -about 10 minutes- before that heady green receded and moved into... butterscotch! What? This I did not expect. When my wife smelled my wrist, her eyes lit up and she said, "Ooh, butterscotch!" She loves butterscotch. Me, I'm not a fan. Perhaps this butterscotch accord is created by some of the fruit notes combining with a vanilla rich amber? Anyway, after about 15 minutes anise and licorice took over as the dominant notes although the vanilla/amber (still slightly butterscotch) remained. At this point I would also get an occasional whiff of mint, pineapple and what seemed to be a blend of the darker florals, jasmine and rose. When the licorice really blossomed it was definitely a savory black licorice. No Twizzlers here. Eventually everything settled into a more blended and lighter overall fragrance with just a touch of woody cedar entering the picture. I say "lighter" but it was stlll rich. All this happened over the course of about an hour or so.
29 February, 2012
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I love the grapefruit top note. Even after it receded from prominence, the grapefruit's pleasantly bitter/sour essence stayed in the mix balancing out the rich fig. If you're looking for a summer fragrance minus the big sweet citrus top note, this might be the ticket.
26 February, 2012
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From the Bulgari website:
18 February, 2012
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After applying Extreme there was a particular note that struck me as vegetal, crisp and aromatic, yet harsh and unbalanced. So I decided to look through previous BN reviews to see if anyone had shared my experience. Sure enough, in one of the first reviews of Extreme posted back in 2002, chris-p mentioned that it "has an odd bitter note that reminds me of celery..." I'm guessing it's the combination of coriander and galbanum listed as top notes. However, I would have preferred an accord with much less aromatic vegetable bite and a bit of floral sweetness from the coriander. Also, that green accord is tenacious and made it's presence known and was dominant for 20-30 minutes before receding -somewhat- into the overall profile of the scent. Even then it remained distinct. Compared to the original pour Homme everything in Extreme is amplified just above Bulgari's typical subtlety. That top note, however, is cranked up to 11. It's unpleasant enough for me to give it thumbs down.
15 February, 2012 (Last Edited: 03 March, 2012)
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On application one is greeted with the slightly sharp yet musty, molasses sweetness of dried fig. But remember, this IS Bulgari. Their hallmark sense of restraint is at work so the fig is not overly potent and its sweetness is dark and mellow. The use of fig is also a wonderful alternative to a citrus top note which would seem the likely default pairing in tea based fragrances.
12 February, 2012