Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Bluemusci23


Vetiver Dance by Tauer


As most reviewers have mentioned, this is NOT a pure vetiver scent. It's a warmed-up complex Tauer riff on vetiver. Herbs and spices on top, animalic notes and tonka in the base. The closest reference I have in concept (not smell) is Antaeus (herbs + woods + castoreum).

There are elements of Tauer's signature sweet resinous base, in this case, wtih the ambergris amplified, giving the drydown a smilar effect (not smell) as Antaeus' use of castoreum. Like Antaeus, it will get animalic/urinous/sweaty. And there is a LOT of ambergris.

This is the highlight of Vetiver Dance -- I personally love this type of fragrance that can combine with body chemistry to straddle the clean/dirty line. I find that at the end of the day, these scents often smell better to me than scents that "go off" -- because they have lost their top notes, and their bases smell stale if not refreshed. At day's end, Vetiver Dance feels "lived-in", not "worn-out" -- it just gets better! For me the BLEND is what this scent is all about -- far into the drydown, I can still catch the vetiver, but it melts with resins, sweat, a salty note (like in Duc de Vervins), something anise-y (like Rive Gauche)...

Vetiver Dance won't appeal to vetiver purists, or fans of current "leaner", "transparent" Duchaufour/Ellena/Giacobetti-style scents (some of which I admire, but don't wear). It's more like a Roudnitska, Flechier. or most notably, a Bernard Chant Aramis/Estee Lauder creation. (Devin is one of my favorites). I think Vetiver Dance is very much inspired by an older aesthetic -- heavily blended, animalic, abstract, man-made, NON-naturalistic, very old-school French. It's like Perfume that announces itself with a capital P, not trying to reference anything else. If you're looking for a "picture" of vetiver, this is not for you. It will be delightful if the idea of "dancing" with vetiver appeals to you -- pursuing it, playing hide-and-seek with it, and ultimately melding with it.

13th June, 2012

Cuir Pleine Fleur / Fine Leather by Heeley

Ah, the classic smell of Cussons' Imperial Leather soap, with 8 hours longevity!
Superb. If you want to extend/layer this fragrance, track down the soap (pink bars, often available in Asian/Indian markets, since it was a popular British export) for next to nothing!
26th April, 2012

Sottile 1.61 by Yosh

Positive review: Pros -- enchanting simplicity, wears close to skin, good longevity Cons -- linear solifore

I think this makes a wonderful fresh masculine skin scent --just out of the shower with a good-ol'fashioned Victorian rose soap. The perfume oil lasts forever; the lily note keeps the rose form getting "dirty" during the drydown. The temperature stays cool, dewy -- this is not a oriental Mata Hari rose (1876) or a patchouli bomb (Voleur de roses). I find it has a calming effect, like lavender essential oil.
26th April, 2012
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Absolue Pour Le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Positive review; Pros -- classy skank extraordinaire; Cons -- super strong!

Bring on the CUMIN!

I absolutely love this! It's dirty in a musky, BO way, but the honey and cumin make it almost gourmand, if you've got an adventurous palate...I could compare it to durian -- simultaneously urinous and fruity/creamy/buttery -- whereas Absolue pour le Soir is sweaty, savory, and ambery.

If you are tempted by but don't feel entirely comfortable with this beast, layering might be an option...I have a secret recipe or two that I won't reveal, but adding a spritz of an aromatic or citrus changes this completely (think Eau d'Hermes...)
26th April, 2012

l'eau de parfum #3 green, green, green and green by Miller et Bertaux

Neutral rating: Pros -- Well-blended, pleasant *green*; Cons -- been there, done that

I agree with the reviews here detailing the notes and their progression (or lack thereof). It's a completely comfortable wear, non-demanding, and refreshing in a coconut water way -- not quite water, not quite coconut. As Odysseusm points out, it does dry down in a distinctly woody direction, contrary to its name.

G,G,G,G does have an Ellena Jardin feel to it, with none of the unique notes that either mar or make those scents (green mango, tomato leaf, etc.) It's closest to an Artisan fragrance in its minimalism and lightness -- but with slightly more lasting power. If you like Fleur de Liane, but would like something less floral, more green, or Philosykos with an added citrus-verbena brightness, this might be for you. I don't think it's worth the niche mark-up.
26th April, 2012

Sombre Negra by Yosh

Neutral review: Pros -- intruguing opening notes; cons -- low longevity, generic dry-down

Right out of the bottle, SN smells like a smoky tar monster in the same lineage as Patchouli Labo and Bulgari Black, with some of the warmth of the hay notes in Dzing!. For me, these types of fragrances are compelling as experiments, but not very wearable or attractive to smell on skin.
SN, however, makes a convincing argument for the smoke by blending it with spicy florals (or floral spices)--mainly the davana and peppercorns. Immediately after application, the inedible smoke mellows into a gourmand note similar to Lapsang Souchong tea, or peppery masala chai. Davana (one of my favorite notes, used brilliantly by Histoires de Parfums) brings warmth and creaminess. Surprisingly comfortable, after only a few minutes! On me, this fascinating phase lasted 2 - 3 hours, getting increasingly spicy and more incense-like. Vetiver is prominent as the main base note.
Just when I thought I might splurge on a full bottle, the drydown arrived as a generic woody musk, as boring and unchallenging as the opening was interesting. No traces of the smoke/davana/peppercorn were left after 3 hours, leaving only the completely mundane base. Definitely worth investigating for a more mellow version of Labo Patchouli, especially if the smoke/spice lasts on your skin. Maybe my skin just gobbled those notes up.
26th April, 2012