LOVE AT FIRST SNIFF!
As most reviewers have mentioned, this is NOT a pure vetiver scent. It's a warmed-up complex Tauer riff on vetiver. Herbs and spices on top, animalic notes and tonka in the base. The closest reference I have in concept (not smell) is Antaeus (herbs + woods + castoreum).
There are elements of Tauer's signature sweet resinous base, in this case, wtih the ambergris amplified, giving the drydown a smilar effect (not smell) as Antaeus' use of castoreum. Like Antaeus, it will get animalic/urinous/sweaty. And there is a LOT of ambergris.
This is the highlight of Vetiver Dance -- I personally love this type of fragrance that can combine with body chemistry to straddle the clean/dirty line. I find that at the end of the day, these scents often smell better to me than scents that "go off" -- because they have lost their top notes, and their bases smell stale if not refreshed. At day's end, Vetiver Dance feels "lived-in", not "worn-out" -- it just gets better! For me the BLEND is what this scent is all about -- far into the drydown, I can still catch the vetiver, but it melts with resins, sweat, a salty note (like in Duc de Vervins), something anise-y (like Rive Gauche)...
Vetiver Dance won't appeal to vetiver purists, or fans of current "leaner", "transparent" Duchaufour/Ellena/Giacobetti-style scents (some of which I admire, but don't wear). It's more like a Roudnitska, Flechier. or most notably, a Bernard Chant Aramis/Estee Lauder creation. (Devin is one of my favorites). I think Vetiver Dance is very much inspired by an older aesthetic -- heavily blended, animalic, abstract, man-made, NON-naturalistic, very old-school French. It's like Perfume that announces itself with a capital P, not trying to reference anything else. If you're looking for a "picture" of vetiver, this is not for you. It will be delightful if the idea of "dancing" with vetiver appeals to you -- pursuing it, playing hide-and-seek with it, and ultimately melding with it.
13 June, 2012