Reviews by lucasai

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    lucasai
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    Fleurs de Citronnier by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

    Fleurs de Citronnier welcomes you with a vibrant, straight-in-your-face note of lemon blossoms (fleurs de citronnier). It's very intensive, citric giving you the feeling of real citrus fruits with rinds blended into this Serge Lutens composition. Note that there are officialy no lemon, orange or grapefruit notes listed. While intensive, this phase is also cool and sheer, it's plesant, absolutely inoffensive. Then the lemon blossom opening become less loud when musky tones appear. In this place the fragrance get's more sensual and "sits" comfortably on ones skin. After some time a neroli note get's the serenade, while musk and lemon blosson play some violin in the background. The fragrance here becomes more citric again, but the feeling is different than the one initially given by an orange blossom. Neroli makes it more flowery, but still reserved and elegant. As the jasmine notes appear Fleurs de Citronnier creates an exclusive smelling soapy vibe. It smells very clean, fresh and invigorating. It creates the aroma that imitates the feeling after a shower. At some point Fleurs de Citronnier reminded me a lot about Le Labo Iris 39. Both fragrances share that interesting aroma of fresh laundry hanging on a string in the open air. Petit grain probably creates this fun vibe. The soapy feeling is far different from the one we get from Prada Infusions, d'Iris and d'Homme as Serge Lutens creation doesn't have the powdery vibe created by iris. But different doesn't wean it's worse. It's definitely not worse. In some aspects it's even better. Hours after application Fleurs de Citronnier settles into a gorgeous smelling skin scent. You can detect musky notes and there's still some neroli left, and a warming hint of honey-waxy notes is tingling quietly.
    As for the citrusy-floral fragrance (I think citrus-floral is an appropriate category for Fleurs de Citronnier) it has an excellent lasting power. The perfume stayed on my skin for 6 hours - that's the time I could easily smell it, I still can sense it when I put my wrist up to my nose. Sure it could last an extra hour or two, but hey, 6 hours is a great time to enjoy the scent. Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier also has a great, very appropriate sillage that becomes smaller as it evolves on your skin. I didn't have much luck smelling Serge Lutens fragrances until now - Fleurs de Citronnier is a gorgeous scent that really understands the wearers skin. Not only it smells divine, but it does smell like made of top quality ingredients. If you ask me - this fragrance is a great choice if you're looking for joyful summer skinscent. It made my smile all day!

    11th June, 2012

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    1725 Casanova by Histoires de Parfums

    1725 is another fragrance created by Gerald Ghislain of Histoires de Parfum which is inspired by a historical character. 1725 was the year of birth of Casanova. He's mostly known for his memoirs of vivid life in Europe capitols in XVIII century and his famous love conquests. His name became a synonym of seduction.

    1725 opens with a very elegant note of two citruses - grapefruit and lemon. As it comes to speaking about citrus notes in the opening, they're often very intensive, strong, prominent and sparkling. But grapefruit & lemon in Casanova break this stereotype. They're classy, distinguished and modern. It's more like smelling their aromatic rinds rather than experiencing the aroma of the whole fruit. These two citruses are...reserved - this should be a good word to describe. There's also something powdery wandering around. Later, an oh-my-gosh-so-gorgeous lavender note appears gracefully. It's so different from one other great lavender perfume - Caron Pour un Homme. While in Caron the lavender note is very fresh, here, in 1725 lavender note is very warm and cosy. To my nose it's like experiencing highest quality sun-dried lavender. It smells like a lavender potpourri I bought during my summer trip to Croatia 2 years ago. After this time it still holds it's precious aroma, reminding me of fun times I had there. When anise joins, 1725 becomes even better. It's slightly spicy, but only a little. Then licorice adds some sweetness to break that spiciness from anise. As the fragrance evolves, 1725 Casanova changes into the most fabulous amber and vanilla scent ever created (at least in my opinion). Duet of amber & vanilla is one of my favourite duets in modern perfumery and 1725 raises the bar really high. After more time amber diffuses and the creaton gets a gourmand moment - believe me - vanilla and almonds with a note of sandalwood in the background smell delicious. Like almond cookies taken out from the oven and cooling down. The note list also mentiones cedar, bergamot and other citruses. For me there's no cedar at all here, bergamot and those other citruses maybe appeared right in the opening but were dominated by grapefruit and lemon aromas.

    1725 Casanova is a wonderful aromatic-fougere eau de parfum with many facets. Once it can be all about grapefruit, the other time it's lavender, amber & vanilla that get the lead. The aroma of this fragrance is rather unique and the taste is exquisite. When someone would smell it on you, there's a high chance they would like to come back for more, so they'll come closer and closer to you. This might be the type of scent that makes others quietly involved. The perfume draws their attention and then... their attention not only focuses on 1725 but on YOU. That's how the perfume seduction works, I guess. In this case Casanova is the perfect name for this eau de parfum.
    This one is my favourite from Histoires de Parfums I smelled.

    09th May, 2012

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    Noir Patchouli by Histoires de Parfums

    NOIR PATCHOULI

    Another fragrance from the house of Histoires de Parfums. This time it is not inspired by any personality, but belongs to the trio called "the irreverents" (along with Vert Pivoine and Blanc Violette).

    Noir Patchouli is one of those few fragrances tell you with their names what are you going to smell when you use it... Because Noir Patchouli is a... Black (dark?) Patchouli. Right from the beginning you're welcomed by an intensive aroma of patchouli. That's a very straight-forward phase. Patchouli get's darkened by a leather accord which blends with patchouli so well, that it's difficult to separate those two notes. Few minutes later I got to smell some bouquet of floral notes. Florals in Noir Patchouli are noticeable, despite the fact that they have a weaker style. They stand out a little from the patchouli-leather combination, almost like they didn't fit in here. After some time fragrance gets spicier with cardamom, coriander and musk. Spices are a good addition to this creation - they break almost linear structure of this eau de parfum, which is created by this duet of leather and patchouli. Two, or less hours after putting Noir Patchouli on this perfume advances. Leaher is still here and so is patchouli, but everything has gotten dirtier, earthier, more mineral and animalic. Can you guess what is it? If you answered - vetiver - yup, you're right! The notes pyramid says that some juniper berries are bound to be there, but I don't get a slightliest hint of it.

    Noir Patchouli is a dark, mysterious and provotative fragrance. It's rather heavy at the beginning but it quiets down after some time, so if you're planning to wear it somewhere formal - don't you dare to spray it less than 1 hour before going out. As it comes to my opinion, I would say that Noir Patchouli is a great choice for a night-time wear.

    09th May, 2012

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    1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums

    The time for the much anticipated perfume from Histoires de Parfums range has come! 1889 takes it's inspiration from cabarettes and burlesque of famous Moulin Rouge - and it does it great!

    This perfume begins with a sparkling notes of iris flower and spicy cinnamon. Or so they say, because what I get to smell right after application my nose takes as nothing else but... hard candy! We all know those small, round sweets of different colors and flavours. This is sweet, but very much in my liking! Who would have thought that these two notes can create such an unexpected vibe! Awesome! After few minutes plum accord starts to play along with wormwood. And here another funny thing happens - 1889 starts to smell like a beautiful, rich, pink and powdery lipstick. One word comes to my mind to describe Moulin Rouge at the moment - elegantly luscious. It's like the fragrance is trying to say "take off some clothes, come with me and let's have some fun" Do you get it too? Around 15 minutes from the start this eau de parfum warms up. I smell there some sugar, but not in sugar cubes, but rather a caramel-sugar. There's also a depth of musk with a touch of patchouli. Ah and rose, rose, rose. It's smells divine and... delicious! Yes, delicious! Other notes make me want to have a bite of my arm, but I try to resist There's also some sparkling mandarin orange in the background and it gives a nice twist to 1889.
    In my opinion Moulin Rouge is the one of these fragrances that bring back our hidden fantasies and imaginations. You don't believe? Try and do what I did - close your eyes, smell Moulin Rouge and let it create some visions. When I smell it I imagine a high ceiling room with crystal chandeliers of white and red lights and a group of people - men and women - in colorful costumes, having drinks in their hands, talking, dancing at the bar table and flirting. That's a crazy vision.
    1889 Moulin Rouge is - to tell it best- the scent of fun and promise of unforgettable events! It smells great, and in my opinion, even though it's manufactured as a female fragrance - I felt great wearing it and I'll be definitely be going back for more! It's kind of outgoing, easy style perfume in a good way!

    Moulin Rouge is an uncompromising perfume of an interesting taste. It is also probably the most vivid one from Histoires de Parfums family. With this fragrace - there's not a chance your day will be boring!

    09th May, 2012

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    1828 by Histoires de Parfums

    the day to take an analysis of Histoires de Parfums 1828. This eau de parfum is inspired by Jules Verne who was a known French writer, playwriter, social activist, pioneer of a sciencie-fiction writing.

    1828 starts with an elegant touch of citruses. It's fresh, juicy and light - just like fruit slices floating on the pure, water surface. Very gentle, charming with a power to make you smile. As the time flows, the composition begins to become a little bit warmer. Citruses make place for some pepper and nice, dry nutmeg accord that has an exquisite taste. Somewhere in the backround a vetiver whispers a calm melody, letting everyone know of it's presence in this composition. But after citruses pine tree is the mail element of this olfactory puzzle. My nose almost took a detour from other nose and went straight from citruses to pine tree. And it smells great! Having a long walk in a pine forrest on a mid-warm, windy day would be a good comparison in my opinion. This pine phase is clear, calming. It gets woody-ier when some cedar joins the composition. There also should be incense, which is listed in the notes, but it's undetectable. Probably gone somewhere between the pine cones. The whole concept for this perfume is rather charming.

    Histoires de Parfums 1828 Jules Verne though is the weekest one from it's family. It really doesn't last that long like it's brothers and sisters. After about 5 hours the fragrance was completely gone. But for the time when it accompanies you - it is perfectly enjoyable. This is also the safest perfume from HdP line I tested so far. I think it would be a very appropriate fragrance for work, formal dinner or whatever. It's elegant, subtle but also sophisticated. Potential wearers will surely find this eau de parfum a good companion.

    09th May, 2012

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    1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

    Today I continue reviewing perfume from my discovery sets. Today's pick is perfume inspired by a person of Marquis de Sade - a famous French writer known for his libertine life attitude. His last name (Sade) was then used as a basis for a word -sadism - the sexual deviation.

    1740 begins with a huge dose of spices - cardamom gives a very strong aroma, which gets pitched up to even higer levels by an intense labdanum note. Seconds after applying the leather accord shows up with all its might. There's no doubt this fragrance is a masculine creation. I dare to say ladies would find it hard to wear it. The leather aroma is strong, dense, creates a misterious aura around the wearer. It is also dark, evilish and dry, warm dry. At some moments this blend of spices and leather gave me some cold shivers. The perfume gets even darker at the time patchouli chemical molecules start to effuse. Fragrance earns much depth (and it was deep right from the beginning). I didn't get any traces of artemisia, which is also listed as a note in Marquis de Sade. As 1740 dries down the resinous aroma of elemi shows up. But still the leather accord is the most noticeable, dominant one (I wonder if mr Sade liked dirty leather games). There's also bergamot listed but my nose really can't pick it up. Sorry for this guys, it's hard to break through this strong leather. Later on everything gets even drier because of the coriander and woody aroma of cedar. This wood is raw, with a lot of splinters. In this form 1740 will last on you for an amazing amount of time, effusing it's strong and bold aroma.

    I personally have not much experience with leathery perfume, but this stuff is absolutely amazing. I'm sure it's not my style of perfume, but while wearing it dor today's review I felt like getting involved into it more and more, it was growing on me the whole day. It's strenght is perfect, sillage is no issue here! Maybe 1740 Marquis de Sade should be entitled one of the best leather perfume that exist in present perfumery? I don't know, but the sure thing is - this stuff has an enormous potential!

    09th May, 2012

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    1969 Parfum de Révolte by Histoires de Parfums

    This olfactory creation opens up with a wonderful note of peach. This peach is round, juicy, with a sun-kissed peel. Smells deliious right from the beginning. At this point I have to admit that peach is in my opinion a difficult perfume ingredient. It's really hard to get a nice potential out of this fruit and to combine in with other notes so that peach can play it nice. Here, Gerald Ghislain did a good job. Few minutes later peachy accord weakens a little bit and we get to smell some great spices. We have here some cardamom and cloves. After another additional few minutes warm patchouli reveals it's presence. At this stage, about 15 minutes from the start this mexican chocolate takes over the whole creation. It smells yummy! Rich, dark chocolate. Patchouli gives it some depth while rose, which stands right next to chocolate gives you a more sweet sensation without sugar overdose. It's like a rose chocolate I've never eaten but have heard it's deliciously divine. One hour after application I got to smell some nice roasted coffee with some chocolate traces left. And this eau de parfum remained in this state most of the day, but from time to time I get the feeling that some notes quietly try to remind about themselves before they completely effuse.

    If you're looking for a spicy oriental fragrance that can be considered to be somewhat gourmand, 1969 is a thing you must try!

    09th May, 2012

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    Tubereuse 3 L’Animale by Histoires de Parfums

    Tubereuse 3 L'Animale

    The fragrance opened up with a gorgeous aroma of tubereuse. This nice, flowery, not "overflowered" note reminded me of some powder candy sweets I used to love when I was a young boy. In my opinion the powderness of this tubereuse accord is a really great move - it made tubereuse stand out, but not to give you a headache. Later on the fragrance became a little smokier thanks to pipe tobacco that just woke up, and also a new flowery vibe appeared - immortelle (I assume it's this flower).
    Tubereuse 3 stayed in this form for quite a long time. Using the occasion that today is a really warm and sunny day I decided to go for a 1st bike ride this year. And after I came back, after 1,5 hour the fragrance absolutely transformed. It smelled of a raw, natural wood, and a note that smelled to me like a dried plum. Very characteristic aroma, I wouldn't even think I might like this stage but I really DO, it's magnificent. Under the heavy layer of woody-plum some jasmine hides, but it's hardly noticeable. I rather sense a sun-warmed hay and some drying cut grass accord.
    I've been already wearing it for 6 hours and the aroma is really intensive, don't even need to pull my wrist up to my nose to sense it. *I will add the total time at the end of the day.
    UPDATE: After 9 hours the perfume is still there

    Assuming - Tubereuse 3 Animale is really well crafted eau de parfum of an interesting and unique taste. It projects well, smells fabulous. This fragrance deserves a lot of love.

    09th May, 2012

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