Perfume Reviews

Reviews by gimmegreen

Total Reviews: 997

Acqua Colonia Pink Pepper & Grapefruit by 4711

People go to 4711 colognes for a handy refreshing little something, a few hours of uplift rather than perfumes of gravitas. My mother was never without a bottle of their classic Kölnisch Wasser, which she would apply to her temples and sniff from a doused handkerchief on particularly hot days.
Pink Pepper and Grapefruit performs this uplift function quite adequately, even if it may not smell particularly of the two notes of its name. The pink pepper, if used, was so sparing that my nose doesn’t really perceive it. And the citrus is a sweet peelings scent with an undertow of powder to begin with which then gets increasingly lemony – none of which suggests the distinctive scent of grapefruit. Does it matter? – only if one believes in truth in advertising.
However, if one can put such considerations aside, this is a perfectly decent functional cologne, which could perhaps have benefitted from being a touch sharper, but will suit nicely on the kinds of days when one would rather bask in the shade than face the sun. Regular reapplications are a given for this genre, and the pricing reflects that.
01st December, 2018

Dama Koupa by Baruti

Baruti does familiar in a manner that’s new – here presenting orris that has been so closely miked that not just every intake of breath is captured but also every rustle of a hair follicle. Or so it seems. For the material is familiar – yes, this is waxy, lipsticky orris, but there’s an unprecedented fullness and richness to it which to some will come across as almost smothering. It’s plumped out by the fruit leather of osmanthus (more leather than fruit in this incarnation), made even more non-porous by dense beeswax and there’s a peppery something in the opening that intrigues and agitates in equal measure. Wearing Dama Koupa feels a bit like putting on some factor 50 unguent and there’s a passing similarity in terms of pore-clogging potential with Francesca Bianchi’s Sex and the Sea, though the scent profiles are sufficiently distinct. Dama Koupa’s disposition is milder, with enough balsamic warmth to hint at a smile. Nonetheless, I can’t say that pea-souper irises are my bag.
However, as this is an all-dayer, there is a considerable softening during the course of the wear, with a more benign, floral aspect of this creation being revealed slowly in stages.
29th November, 2018

Classic Patchouli by von Eusersdorff

I’m reminded of port – there’s plenty that’s drinkable, reasonably priced and of decent quality but get a bottle of the truly good stuff and the flavours that leap about on the tongue and the deeeeep, warming satisfaction are in a different league. Von Eusersdorff’s offering is like that good bottle but of patchouli and it’s no surprise that it has die-hard fans who will wear no other.
There’s no novelty, no ‘twist’ to it, just an amber brown patchouli of profound resonance that feels as though it has been matured to just rightness. The odour profile of the star ingredient here is so rewardingly complex there’s something for everyone – except those who’d rather have a candy floss concoction. After a honeyed opening that feels as if some master distiller had turned patchouli into a rare liqueur, nuances of old leather, soil, malt, sweet mulch, even marzipan begin to unfold over an unobtrusive yet firmly anchoring woody backdrop. This is olfactory damask, deep bordeaux one moment, then a shaded, nutty brown, or is it purple veering into black?
In the same league as Les Neriades’ Patchouli Antique, but a touch less bold in its projection and with less of the musty old chest about it. But where it steals the march is in the refinement of the drydown, which wears like burnished voile where so many patchoulis can feel like carpeting.
29th November, 2018
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Casamorati 1888 by Xerjoff

Spiced floral amber – the reason why I am using generic terms is that 1888 refuses to lift into anything much more specific on my skin. There’s a touch of the light, almost fruity saffron, that sings out in Dolce Amalfi from the same line, but it’s soon lost into this vaguely spiced sweetness that seems to rest on a base that is half custard, half wood paste. Fans of Christmassy scents may appreciate this one as it seems to have a mulled quality to it and feels warming, but I’ll stick to a couple of Carons which give me that particular fix (Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noel). It remains a bit of a head scratcher making me wonder if my hooter is malfunctioning because I really can’t smell ‘the best perfume in the world’ wave overwhelming the Fragrantica commentators on this one.
29th November, 2018

Djhenné 22 by Parfumerie Generale

Transporting little thing which brings together sun and shade. The sun in the ripened, baked, comforting note of the wheat absolute and the warm resins; the shade in the cool lavender opening and the minty herbal nuances. The experience is a bit like a soothing after-sun lotion and a heaty chest rub applied together. This study in contrasts, which inevitably dries down in a more traditional resins and dried herbs direction best suited to the colder months, suffers from the chief Parfumerie Generale problem – demureness of body and presence which prevents it from making more of a statement, despite the accomplished creaminess of the finish.
29th November, 2018

MEM by Bogue Profumo

MEM leads off with an excellent billowing lavender, the kind that lets in nostril-clearing eucalyptus-like notes and gummier licorice into its usual soap-and-metal charge. This feels like fields upon fields of the stuff and it’s probably the first time it has truly excited me in perfumery (by contrast, lavender for real I find plenty exciting). Walk back into a room where you have been sitting – and there is that lavender, impossibly vital, a touch camphoraceous, fresh as a breeze. The citruses in the opening have been beautifully deployed to pair with the lavender – the bitter peel effects merging perfectly into the medicinal edge of its profile.
Hereafter, MEM diverges somewhat – on paper it had promised brassy, fat and dirty jasmine as the floral entertainment but on my skin the florals were muted subsuming themselves in the development of the lavender main theme. Bubbles of olfactory sensations keep popping – the brightness of something minty, suggestions of caramel and burnt sugar, malty comfort. So, yes, MEM is complex as has often been noted – but it’s a complexity within a clearly articulated theme. As for the animalic elements, nothing really wagged its tail at me – whatever is in here is kept well within the bounds of decency. What I appreciate most about MEM is how it zigzags between field-fresh lavender, medicine chest and grand classical perfumery of layers upon layers without any dizziness.
However, wonders be, much, much later in the day, almost without my noticing it, there was the jasmine, with not a single clean thought on its mind, doing unspeakable things with an ever-so-willing musk. The lavender was now taking a back seat, but enjoying the view, so to speak.

29th November, 2018

Imitation Woman by Amouage

Bold and brassy, Imitation Woman wears fluorescent pvc trousers and carries an exotic bouquet complete with fruit-laden sprigs of blackcurrant. I love that Amouage still takes these risks – there’s nothing run of the mill about Imitation (one wonders if there will be sincere forms of flattery in years to come) and thus it is bound to be for unfocused groups, ie individuals.
My first encounter with it was in a store and it immediately turned everything else I had been sniffing grey. When a perfume can do that, it’s leading not following.
In combining a cool, super-buffed aldehydic sheen that seems almost an olfactory counterpart to neon lights, vinyl, and sheer cellophane, with gutsy, juicy, flavoursome floral and fruity notes, Imitation presents a vortex of attraction, artifice and nature electrically conjoined.
I tend to overspray this one because I love the vibrant blackcurrant top so much – I keep returning at intervals for more. It pops like you expect blackcurrants to and is cleverly accented by a touch of sweet postbox red roses. Then the florals start to kick in, the classic white flowers and rose combo, but with that almost citric aldehydic rush that seems to spin them around and present then in bright white light. This is so in the spirit of 1970s scents like Charlie, but only in the confidence of its mood – the execution is much more sophisticated. Part of that sophistication is the subtle use of smoke (incense) and a light powdery wood backing.
It’s autumn turning to winter as I write this, and Imitation Woman has brought a burst of colour to the season. It’s the promise of fun times bottled.
29th November, 2018

Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

I first smelled Baccarat Rouge on paper and got a huge glug of that candy floss and burnt sugar chemical so beloved of celebuscents and something that shouted BERRY in a vocodered voice. So far so like the ultra-sweet gourmands that many young women wear these days that will choke any available stairwell or elevator, but this one seemed buffed to a sheen, and a blotter with a single spray seemed to keep calling to me from the far end of the room. Not the kind of thing I normally go for but it seemed to hold promise. Could Kurkdjian have offered us something addictive and startling in this most trashy of genres?
But on skin, disaster could not be averted, for alongside the sweetie cloud there was a pervasive iodine and ozone hospital corridor smell and a sharp metallic clang that put my teeth on edge. Here it seems was the woody amber from hell, hell-bent on giving aromachemicals a bad name. I think it is aiming for some kind of dense yet transparent trick but ends up as widescreen soup with bits in it that you wish rather weren’t. Pretty linear and stretches from here to eternity.
29th November, 2018

Gattopardo by Antonio Alessandria

I’ve long been eyeing the Antonio Alessandria line for entirely dubious reasons – the 1920’s-30s style of the bottles have been proving to be a strange attractor, considering I’m usually immune to the charms of packaging.
Reading reports that this isn’t just another style-over-substance niche brand but offers perfumes with distinctive personalities tipped me over into trying out some. Gattopardo (Leopard) comes with Visconti-esque associations of decadent stylish excess. Allesandria’s perfume translation, however, does not bring swanning about in a grand palazzo to mind; it lacks the lavish finish.
Here is a full-volley peaty whisky paired with a rather thin fig, that imbalance makes the latter seem strangely medicinal, with a touch of petrol fumes as well. Underlying this accord is a beeswax and patchouli-cocoa base, thick, gourmand, but not dogged as these things tend to be. While admiring that many of the notes are quite realistic yet not heavy-handed, they fail to convince me that they belong together. Still, lovers of ultra-boozy perfumes, should give this a twirl as the drydown seems to be bottomless Laphroaig.
09th November, 2018

Casamorati 1888 Dolce Amalfi by Xerjoff

Certain quarters have been in a kind of rapture about Dolce Amalfi, THIS, they say, is the promised one. Eager to add my own alleluia, I sent out for a sample. What came back was a down home kitchen kind of thing – not quite apple pie, but perhaps as safe and warming as.
Dolce Amalfi oozes a kind of cooked fruit pulp of triple smoothness. Apple and quince are the notes mentioned, and my nose picks out much more of the former which is a shame, as a kitchen permeated by the aroma of bubbling quince can be quite something. A streak of spice runs through it, but again so smooth and creamy, that is blends right in rather than manspreading. The saffron note is that of milky puddings, the cardamom brings its usual cooling sophistication and there are cloves, but they seem satiny rather than firebrands. Underneath is a pillow of mild vanilla and clean musk.
Dolce Amalfi is a curious thing – a gourmand perfume that doesn’t read as a gourmand perfume. The fruity spicy notes somehow don’t make the wearer feel that they have been baked into a giant crumble, rather this is a restful, reviving bath in something so silky and luxurious it is easy to say yes to its charms.
However, just when I was toying with thoughts that I might spring for a small bottle of this stuff, came the sad realization that Dolce Amalfi is top-loaded, and after a few hours will subside into a powdery, slightly resinous, vanilla-and-tonka nothing.
09th November, 2018

Oud du Jour by Amouroud

A prune and berry fruit accord coupled with spicing of equal strength (the notes list black pepper and saffron but I smell mainly pepper, nutmeg, even cumin) on a dry woods and resins background. Oud du Jour doesn’t deploy its notes with a heavy hand and comes off smelling like the perfumer was trying to achieve something like an oud in the manner of Duchaufour’s offerings for The Different Company or even Jubilation. However, the fruity tones come across as rubbery and blended to death and the oud reconstruction (though mild) seems like a bald woody aromachemical.
It gets a bit better with time – the spices that were a bit too strong for my taste relaxed into the mix and some floral notes came into view. But on the whole Oud du Jour has nothing to it that can lift it to the level it is aiming for.

09th November, 2018

Safran Rare by Amouroud

Perfumes that successfully capture the golden warmth of saffron are rare; sadly Safran Rare isn’t one. A pinch of dried saffron threads has an almost singed bittersweet muskiness, with traces of dry wood and hay in the background. Infused in warm milk or added to a rice pulao the scent blooms, it glows almost from within. When it wafts up to the nostrils, the eyes close and a smile spreads.
Perhaps it’s due to the aromachemicals used but most perfumes that aim for saffron deliver leather instead, usually of the suede variety. Safran Rare quickly falls into this category after opening with a tantalizing glimpse of a true saffron coupled with a small trickle of a syrupy gourmand note. But that flash of saffron (as well as the syrup) starts to fade almost immediately, moving slowly to the margins as the field fills with the unfurling suede. It’s a perfectly competent perfume, but there are rather a lot of these suedey leathers around and this one delivers nothing extra to make it stand out from the rest.

09th November, 2018

Santal des Indes by Amouroud

Refreshing and cool, Santal des Indes comes on like a woody shower gel before slowly warming up. Well-constructed, this is in the line of numerous lightly spiced, gently sweet, woody ‘masculines’, rather than a sandalwood show stopper. Indeed were I to test this blind, I doubt my thoughts would alight on that noble wood. The wood note here is mainly cedar, clean and sweet, coupled with light smoky incense, soapy cardamom and a backing chorus of woody aromachemicals. It has a bit of musky propulsion and ultimately becomes one of those thoroughly-blended-but-variegated spicy-woody concoctions aimed squarely at median man. No matter – it’s a polished effort, just not terribly exciting when you’ve encountered numerous minuscule variations on this theme already.
09th November, 2018
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Louanges Profanes 19 by Parfumerie Generale

Sunny and straight ahead orange blossom-led floral. A slip of a thing in a white shift dress, which somehow manages to be both charming and banal.
11th October, 2018

Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d'Empire

I rarely try citrus fragrances because so many are disappointing. They often suffer from the pumpkin carriage tendency, fleeing just as you’re beginning to enjoy yourself. And those that linger are usually too synthetic smelling by half. After one too many bottled screeches, it’s easy to give up. But Luca Turin’s five star review of Azemour Les Orangers piqued my interest enough to order a sample.
This is a perfume with a big personality and a world apart from other citruses out there. It’s based on a juxtaposition of a rich and luxurious blend of citrus notes (leaning towards oranges and mandarins rather than the sharper siblings) and a strong dose of humid soil, full of mould, almost choking. A world championship clash between oriental opulence and chypric ruggedness. My skin, alas, plays up the earthiness, so that what sang sweetly like a siren on a strip of paper pitch shifts considerably. I love that Azemour is so natural, full to the brim and rich, but I’m laid low by the humus – it’s all a bit ‘freshly dug grave in the orange orchard’.
It’s only a good two or three hours into the wear that Azemour settles on my skin, the mulchy soil dying back to a more acceptable level and turning woodier, resinous tones emerging and a bit of candied peel finding its way into the mix. The classic ideals of harmony and restraint now govern and a place has been earned in the gallery of greats. That this place may be right next to Nicolai’s New York has been observed by Turin, who cites Azemour as being a more natural iteration of that idea. Be that as it may, New York is my friend from start to finish, Azemour takes its time to warm to me.
11th October, 2018

Amber Rose by Shay & Blue

The flattest rose I’ve come across in a while – this is bargain basement stuff in high end clothes. The rose is a toiletry rose – fresh, greenish, slightly synthetic. For a short while there’s a film of an odd skin-and-vegetable-peelings note over it, nowhere near any dulche de leche or amber that I’ve smelled. Ends as a background rosy hum. Light and inoffensive is the kindest I can be about such utterly pointless exercises in perfumery.
11th October, 2018

The Fragrance Journals : 1927 by Floris

Welcome to the ozone bar! 1927 is a light-as-a-feather sparkler – effervescent with lemony aldehydes dressing up a pillow-soft mixed floral bouquet. It evokes a space of gilt edges and cool white marble tops where the delicate but persistent scent of morphing flowers lingers – now the pale mauve vagueness of violets, now the soap bubbles of fluffy mimosa, or is it linden with its touch of green?
Retro as hell but oh so stylish – only go here if you get aldehydic florals. It makes me want to bring out my (non-existent) brand new mother of pearl cha cha heels and waft through my (non-existent) palace to make the arrangements for a grande soirée.
One aspect that is sadly not retro is the active life of this perfume, which dives to next to nothing after 3-4 hours. And it doesn’t seem to be a skin issue either; it did the same on a paper strip.
11th October, 2018

Oud Stars : Alexandria II by Xerjoff

Putting the bomb into bombast, Alexandria II’s opening is so loud and diffusive it will make you want to sit down and rest your punched hooter. Here are hugely diffusive musked-up florals – soapy rose amplified to a flood of suds and fresh lavender of a solar brightness –, a storm cloud of cinnamon, a stream of treacly amber, all backed by smooth, powdery woods. While other Oud Star offerings have a similar will to power – any more than one spray of Gao and you’re harming the environment – this has a decked-out, blinged-up, look at me character to it which is frank, OTT and not for snobs.
Alexandria’s smile reveals two rows of gold caps and wafts a month’s supply of mouth freshener. The essence of this perfume in its first few hours is its turbo-charged lavender played off against an almost toxic dose of cinnamon, a battle royale conducted under layers and layers of transparent laundry musks so thick, they are panes of ice.
However, once this phase is passed, Alexandria goes the way of Atlantis – major subsidence. The whole thing deflates, projection drops and now what emerges is a dry and spicy take on oud that one can encounter in almost every budget-friendly Arabic or Middle East-oriented house’s offerings. Not special – we wuz robbed.
02nd October, 2018

Copper Skies by Kerosene

Restorative boot-polish amber. It’s ‘good for you’ kind of stuff – smelling medicinal, full of big bold licorice and tobacco, sweetness reined in. It has a vigour that many ambers lack and a lung-filling quality, making it just the thing for the great outdoors – the unspoilt version, that is, as it smells so immediately ‘of nature’. By degrees, what my nose took for licorice untangles to a warm glow of cloves and an undercurrent of peppery yet green basil. What makes or breaks an amber are the resins involved and here they seem to radiate from the wearer’s skin in overlapping layers. Ultimately all other notes dissolve one by one and it’s the warm cloak of resins that remains.
It’s a forceful creation, and thus not for everyday wear. My own preference would be to keep it for those times when the urge strikes to escape the confines of home to head out in search of a wilderness.
29th September, 2018

Alter by Sammarco

True but subdued jasmine with some skin buzz and resinous smoke and saltiness. It’s a beautifully arrayed composition – the jasmine, though with its natural sweetness curiously dialed down, comes across as a flowering plant sharing the wearer’s space, earthy and vegetal tones mingling with the floral song; behind it the shades of frankincense and myrrh, distant at first but coming ever closer, impart a somewhat dusty but also civilizing quality. And then there’s the thought that this perfume is merging perfectly in and out of one’s own skin scent. Everything seems to be in such balance that Alter has that sense of ‘this could not happen in any other way’.
I find it hypnotic, captivating, and, yes, ‘altering’ of our expectations of white florals and jasmine scents. But it’s an extrait in the old school sense and refuses to announce its presence. Call me a vulgarian but I wanted it to speak up just a bit more.
29th September, 2018

L'Eau Guerrière 20 by Parfumerie Generale

Incense through a cool veil of (coniferous) forest green – a scent of safety in terms of lack of provocation, genre conformity and modest projection.
29th September, 2018

Fantastic Oud by Montale

Opens more like Obnoxious Oud, sour and curdled, the oud note particularly sharp and smelling like a cross between the cheese factory and the plastic warehouse. But then it improves somewhat by turning more towards a patchoulied leather direction. There is also a typical attar rose note in here but of dime store quality and a little play of smoke in an attempt to soften the edges. The main thing about this, however, is thrust, an aggression reminiscent of budget fragrances aimed at young males, and that is achieved by an overwhelming cloud of chemical ‘freshness’, a kind of citrus and lavender mix that will fill a room and singe the nose.
Relaxes in the later stages in to a wearable somewhat peppery oud – but who wants to wait for hours to get there?
29th September, 2018

Dew Musk by Montale

A walloping indolic white floral combined with a beasty musk. Take Kiehl’s much more subtle (and beautiful) musk offering and crank it into the red seems to be Montale’s game plan. There’s one problem – while the musk is decent, the florals are of floor cleaner quality (and pungency). And then there’s fruit in the mix that thinks its nail varnish. Nothing dewy here, for sure.
29th September, 2018

Iris Macchiato by Auphorie

Despite being a caffeine fiend, coffee is not my thing. It makes me nauseous. If an estate agent were to take me to a house smelling of the stuff (a common sales trick, I am told), I’d be inclined to walk right back out the door. But being an Auphorie follower, I felt I couldn’t avoid trying this even if it threatened to be a Sécrétions Magnifique-type experience for me. Maybe the iris would save it, but then No 15, their other perfume supposedly centred around iris hadn’t really delivered on that promise.
Well, after much dithering, there was nothing else to do but press that sprayer…
And sure enough a basso profundo ogre’s-breath coffee top note spewed out – uncompromisingly bitter, caramelized/burnt, deep in the grounds and yet with a certain almost-milky smoothness. This stuff was oceanic and for coffee lovers it is bound to be a head rush. Curiously, much as I dislike coffee, none of the associated nausea was materializing. I was surprised at how mellow and indulgent this was feeling, addictive even, prompting me to go for another spray. Iris Macchiato, while still undoubtedly about the espresso, seemed to get creamier and rounder all the time, and I wondered whether this effect was the result of the benevolent working of the musk.
This was the beginning of a long, slow transition, with first the perfume’s throw getting a temperate chocolate aspect, airborne and light, before increasing abstraction with gentle woody and sweetish tones coming into play. Once again, I felt the iris was proving elusive to my nose until it dawned that this delicate woody sweetness is the Auphorie interpretation of this note.
What can I say? This is an expertly blended perfume. If it can give a coffee hater like me a good ride, that’s saying something about the craft involved here.
21st September, 2018

L'Anima Della Rosa by Auphorie

A garden perfume from the Au brothers, where the blooms are open and touched by cool morning air, hints of green, some of the near citric tones that are often part of the make up of living roses, pulpy fruity accents of more exotic flowers. A heady mix for sure but tempered by a serene, greyish, almost metallic tea note up top and by the gentleness of the execution.
There is a touch of deflated expectation on my part as I had expected the roses to play more of a starring role, but this is very much a mixed bouquet, a kind of floral nectar where I can pick out the honeysuckle and acacia, alongside the rose. I’ve no idea what a passion flower smells like, but there’s definitely a touch of the moreish sour-sweetness of passion fruit here.
Tucked underneath, almost completely hidden, is an unobtrusive accord that smells like human skin – the figure in this garden perhaps. L’Anima Della Rosa feels gracious and unforced, unlike the huge personalities of some other Auphorie perfumes, but it is nonetheless capable of filling a room – so just a spray or two is optimal use.
21st September, 2018

Première Danse by Paul Emilien

My main problem with the Paul Emilien range is that his perfumes seem anonymized. It’s as if the great characterful idea of any particular creation is studiously scrubbed of distinguishing aspects to present a safe middle-of-the-road option. Premiere Danse is one of his better offerings but still suffers a bit from this tendency. A warmed-through ambery fruity floral with a boozy tinge this could have been something truly special with a bigger budget for its formula and bolder note differentiation. Instead, its golden glow feels created by light coming through a strip of coloured cellophane rather than from the source itself and it feels pleasant when it could have been a rapturous embrace.
The one gutsy thing about it is a quality labdanum in the base providing resinous complexity and heat – that combined with the bitter orange up top provides a bit of the dancehall rush that this perfume promises. And in the drydown when the floral notes have fled and the dancer is flumped on a chair, the much sturdier amber-oriental that emerges, weighted with redolent spices and resins, is a satisfying – if somewhat chunky – affair.
20th September, 2018

Le Cri de la Lumière by Parfum d'Empire

This dance of the iris and the rose sweeps effortlessly and elegantly past a vast vista of shades, it would appear, in a hall built from fragrant timbers. The essential harmony of the rose and iris plays out in a vast vaulted space entirely of this perfume’s creation where fine spice, silken woody notes along with the root-like aspects of the iris float like gauzy strands encountered in the perpetual movement that seems to be at the heart of this creation. Le Cri has similarities to other woody oriental rose perfumes, especially those with an Arabic inflection, but where it differs is how it seems suffused with air and light, being expansive without overbearing, present as a vaporous aura about the person of the wearer.
A marvel for a good 3 to 4 hours after which Le Cri fades back quite a bit to a still satisfying woody rose, though lacking the vitality of what came before.
20th September, 2018

Charlatan by Fort and Manlé

The refectory with exotic plants and fine morsels. Charlatan is a beautifully balanced floral gourmand perfume where neither of those qualifiers are quite what they may suggest. The floral notes don’t jump up and identify themselves – rather they evoke a shaded space with blooming plants; and the gourmand elements are soft and silken smooth , like dreams of ambrosial delights rather than the things themselves. The whole is bound together by a delicate, marshmallow-soft vanillic ambery sweetness and a soothing neutral tone akin to plant sap.
Entirely lovely, even if, like other Fort and Manlé offerings, it requires generous spraying.
20th September, 2018

Aeon 001 by Aeon Perfume

With Aeon 001 we travel with perfumer Antonio Gardoni down several strata of mulch – a place of relative darkness but teeming with life. Aeon 001 is one of the few perfumes that does justice to the complex aroma profile of vetiver as a raw material and then adds something worth adding on top. So beyond the gorgeous bittersweet earthy humidity of this humble root in all its glory, there are perfectly dosed smoky tones that dissolve into the whole, some terpenic mastic chewiness and a bright white floral boundary which offers a kind of beckoning-lights-in-the-distance effect for a while until it fades. Aeon 001 feels grounded and grounding – a druid commanding a vast vista.
20th September, 2018

Intense Cherry by Montale

Breezy, laundry musky, hairspray floral, probably best suited to pre-pubescents. Oh, and the promised cherry? Not intense, and smelling like a slurpy variant. Had I sniffed it blind, I most likely wouldn’t have figured out the intended fruit.
Intense Cherry is a bit like being enfolded in a jujube – and, guess what, having grown up with a parenting strategy that involved popping a sweet as a pacifier into my bawling mouth, on some days I’m in the mood for that. But the drydown is utterly inexcusable, the most nondescript musk that for some reason kept bringing thoughts of a carpet warehouse to my mind.
20th September, 2018