Perfume Reviews

Reviews by gimmegreen

Total Reviews: 789

Montecristo by Masque

Dirty old leather paired with zingy aromatic herbals, Montecristo is a butch little number that is firmly in the territory of some of the more square-jawed mainstream ‘masculines’ but with the more extreme elements cranked up a little to establish niche credentials. The backing is firmly trad for this kind of perfume – a woody, ambery, spicy richness familiar to the more hirsute Orientals. The throw is much fresher, quite green and herbal – which is only part of what the wearer themselves will perceive. A fine, well-balanced example of its kind, but I’m not terribly interested in what it has to say.
10th April, 2017

Grand Siècle Intense 7.1 by Parfumerie Generale

Hello there, juicy lemon, has that bad boy Pierre Guillaume been eyeing you up? Shame he couldn’t make you misbehave – still, who needs vice when you’ve got freshness?
GSI has sturdy underpinnings to give a citrus cologne body – patchouli and vetiver – but it’s all about being tart and fresh, more acid than zest. In this it comes across as somewhat single-minded, when it could have benefited from opening up and embracing a bit more variety. The grassy notes don’t really count as they remain timid.
10th April, 2017

Eau de Nyonya by Auphorie

This incredible rich and smoky gourmand that smells like nothing else is further evidence that the Au brothers are perfumers to watch. A first meeting with Eau de Nyonya is almost a shock: the senses reel with the unctuous smell unfolding which is like a thick and creamy rice-based pudding being cooked over an open fire with the rich caramel, toffee and burnt notes that come from the scraping of sticky bits from the pan flooding the olfactory pleasure spots. It prompted involuntary salivation.
The overriding, slightly burnt toffee-like note burnishes many of the elements – the lovely scent of heated freshly-made coconut milk (which is quite different to most perfumery coconut notes), creamy and toasted rice, palm sugar. The floral bouquet of the perfume is hidden behind the gourmand notes – one can sense it’s there but not really define it. Which leads me to wonder what function it performs. Not that it matters much in a perfume of such satiating richness and astonishing originality.
The indulgent sweetness of some gourmands can make one weary – here it is centred by the smokiness, the bitter burnt tones and a waxy, salty ambergris construct that really makes the whole thing shine. Interestingly, during the course of the wear Eau de Nyonya also takes on the ambience of a space where such a tempting dessert may have been prepared – a hall of old timbers and dark high ceilings. A fairly linear scent, the evolution is towards a settling of the notes so that the gourmand intensity subsides somewhat – a good thing – and the smoke fades, leaving a mellow toasted feel instead.
Something with such a strong personality is definitely not for everyone and probably only suitable for occasional use, but it remains arresting.

Eau de Nyonya requires a good shake before spraying. Droplets of something dark separate from the remaining liquid when it rests – a shake disperses them again.

10th April, 2017
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Amour de Palazzo by Jul et Mad

Amour de Palazzo has a wonderful enveloping feel – it rises effortlessly from the wearer’s skin and get airborne, it seems bursting with impressions and accents, and fresh powders. That kind of classy finish deserves notice, no matter what the perfume smells like. But the smell doesn’t disappoint and is remarkably complete – one can’t imagine taking away or adding anything to it.
For a sweet ambery leather, I am surprised how much I like it – it has to be that burst of confidence about its entirety and its diffusive nature that does it. There’s nothing heavy about this perfume – not the spices, not the amber, not the oudy accents in the mid-phase – it’s all about soothing balsamic radiance. And with a well-judged cedar note in the mix soaking up all the sweetness and making it its own, there’s also a natural unforced quality about it. One of those wear-and-go perfumes that one doesn’t have to think too much about and which would suit almost any kind of day.
10th April, 2017

Fraîche Passiflore by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

The decadence of tropical fruit is not just in the mouth-whacking intensity of flavour that can make cousins from cooler climes seem dilute by comparison, but also an almost ‘off’ note in many varieties that suggests the thing is verging on over-ripeness. Fraîche Passiflore, which comes cloaked with a peachy mist that soon dissipates, majors on passion fruit but with a faithfully rendered offness that also suggests mango and guava. It has the tang and tartness of the fruit thus rescuing it from the anonymity of gumdrop renditions. A backing accord reminiscent of budget green tea spritzers detracts from the overall effect in the heart phase but then fades. The end is in a gently floral-musky murmur. Still, something refreshing for the summer and nice enough if one wears it without paying it too much attention.
02nd April, 2017

Gold I by AJ Arabia

There’s a kind of feculent oud profile that occupies the dubious border territory where runny cheese overlaps with diarrhoea. Why do people wear such stuff? Well, mainly because it does not literally smell of those things; like them, yes, but in the manner that a good horror film allows one to tingle with shock without suffering spirit possession or torture oneself. And also because such complex ouds usually resolve into even more intriguing things like tannery leather notes, boozy wooziness, sweetly rotting woods from the dawn of time…
This would have been quite a daring perfume in the AJ Arabia line what with its mucky oud. But bizarrely the whole thing is treated in a light and dispersive manner wrapped in pinky musks and skinny white florals. So when one has made peace with the initial jolt of the oud construct here, one almost immediately regrets it hadn’t been treated with more guts. When the evolution towards leather begins after about the first 15 minutes, the whole thing gets softer than a meringue in a steam room which is a woeful fate indeed for an oud of such decadent promise. Dives to a simple musky skin scent beyond the two hour mark.
02nd April, 2017

Cuir Blanc by Evody

If noir is bold, deep and rich, what is blanc? Light, fluffy and non-offensive?
Cuir Blanc wears its blancness without a care. It’s the softest of leathers expanded with chewy marshmallow and talcum powder musks, featureless and dozy but also comforting in a mindless kind of way.
Its simplicity is a bit double-edged: is it aspiring to a longed for purity or is it just plain? I rather suspect the answer will depend upon whether the wearer is craving a return to something basic and unchallenging or not.
02nd April, 2017

ManRose by Etro

Pity the uninspired grunts who came up with what has to be one of the most unfortunate names for a perfume. Luckily the thing itself is a sprightly little number even if not making any perceptible bid for originality.
This is an aerial rose tinged with citrus and greens at the start giving it almost a fougère like feel but which eventually settles on a bed of clean vetiver and soft cardamom. The rose note has the characteristic brightness that comes from a pairing with geranium which darkens ever so slightly in the later stages when a dab of patchouli becomes evident. Completely pleasant and eminently wearable, but firmly middle-of-the-road – ManRose makes not the slightest effort to do something different and thus smells pretty familiar from the get go. Perfumery is full of wheels being reinvented and this is one, but it rolls just fine.
02nd April, 2017

Pardon by Nasomatto

I’m a bit of a baby when it comes to chocolate, preferring milk to dark. But when it comes to the smell of the thing – give me bitter and back-of-the-throat any day. (If only bitter chocolate tasted as good as it smells – I know, I know, for some of you it does…) So, the most satisfying thing about Pardon is the deep and enrobing chocolate accord that arises from sprayed skin, made more sophisticated by an artfully blended-in dose of cinnamon and what my nose perceives (but the notes list doesn’t mention) as herbal energy. It makes one feel like an instant connoisseur rather than a greedy guts. Despite deploying gourmand notes, the overall mood of this perfume is not of indulgence but of dynamism and refinement. I think it would make just the right impression in a boardroom setting – but this is fantasy on my part never having set foot in such an environment.
Over time the spicier and woodier side of Pardon becomes more evident with an oud-like aspect emerging and an ambery tonka sweetness making itself felt – but always with the backdrop (or perhaps the memory?) of that palpating dark.
02nd April, 2017

Yuzu Ab Irato 09 by Parfumerie Generale

After the lingering cyborg horror of Azzaro’s Chrome, I am immediately suspicious of perfumes that come in a shade of Listerine blue. The similarity ends there as far as Yuzu Ab Irato is concerned; but this is still a by-numbers oddity. Odd in that it manages an ‘off’ accord of toothpaste mint and sink-cleaning citrus but in the usual wispy Parfumerie Generale style. The major let down is the drydown which smells like a dried herbs and resins concotion that some well-meaning quack might spread on one’s chest when ill, but which would only increase the suffering.
02nd April, 2017

Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

Unimaginative peppery dry woods offering in a vein that has become overfamiliar by now. Touched by the dry herbs and smoke of nagarmotha and dusted with some aged spice, none of which inch this towards greater likeability. A suggestion of candied orange sweetness at the start may have done the trick but it is soon lost.
Inert and badly in need of the electric shock of some other gutsy ingredient to play off against the dreary desiccated woods.
23rd March, 2017

L'Autre Oud by Lancôme

We are in such post-oud times that it is surprising and refreshing to come across an oud done in the old manner, before the craze hit and oud was still mainly the preserve of Arabic style perfumery. So, this is not an oud pulled and stretched by ‘novelty’ notes, but one that goes for richness and balance highlighting the warmth and deep resonance characteristic of this entrancing ingredient. This is about as l’autre as this oud gets – it says, I can still do that old thing with assurance and it’s still magic.
This is a lovely woody perfume of great depth, stuffed with accents – humid, nobly mouldy, earthy, gently boozy, spicy in the most refined sense, hints of smoke and leather – that perform in unison. What the nose encounters is an instantly recognizable and rounded perfume that is all about greeting rather than evasion.
As with such ouds, the classic accompanying notes are deployed completely at the service of its friendly woody character – the saffron seems to align with drier aspects of the woody theme, the red rose extends its darkness rather than jostling to be the main event, and the patchouli brings a touch of the wine cellar. Fine work by Christophe Reynaud who is behind a number of mainstream designer hits – here that crowd-pleasing tendency gives us an oud that is truly sumptuous.

23rd March, 2017

Angel's Dust by Francesca Bianchi

Angel’s Dust is unabashedly romantic. This is like being in the chamber of luurrve where there is nothing harsh, the senses are fanned with the sweetest, kindest airs and just when you thought things were getting a bit too much hearts-and-flowers in the Hallmark sense there’s a welling up of sensuality.
On the face of it this is a powdery, cosmetics-inspired creation. But that is just the barest outline within which beats a passion that many will want to embrace. The first impression is of a billowy floral bouquet, rose and mimosa done in a style that makes one feel like one is subsiding into a feather bed, with the powder of the mimosa further accentuated by iris. This boudoir effect is lit up by a plump, golden vanilla note. It’s rendered as an unabashedly gourmand accent giving body and further comfort. But if so far this bedroom of bliss seems to have been promising only fluffy dreams and restful sleep, a short while in the oriental foundations make themselves felt and the promise of something more awakens. A speck of black pepper in the opening had signalled this progression, but now we have warming balsamic notes and smooth and creamy sandalwood, and they are as welcome as the lover’s touch. Unobtrusively backing the whole thing from start to finish is a skin-like musk, keeping it in sympathy with the wearer.
For an hour or so Angel’s Dust feels like a minor masterpiece, but then two disappointing things happen. First the projection takes a dive, so it becomes just a little better than a skin scent with the consequent loss of detail that involves. Then a short while after that the florals lose much of their vibrancy, and now the distinction between Angel’s Dust and other perfumes of the powder compact type is much narrowed. A pity.

23rd March, 2017
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Oudmazing by Montale

In which Montale finally give up on their usual attempts at oud constructs and go for a straightforward subdued woody backing instead. But the woooud is not the point here despite the name.
The notes in this one are all over the place – anyone who thinks there be figs here as the notes list declares needs to go smell figs. What we are given is a plump sugar-fed gourmand in the Angel-Sì tradition, which starts off with a bit of a chocolate rush but soon waddles into a swamp of fruit gloop and candy floss with burnt edges. A by-numbers sweet vanilla seems to ooze into any available olfactory space. A welcome undertone of something like roasted hazelnuts has its negative in a jarring acetone/citric note screeching at the fringes.
Matures to a rubbery-woody sweetness but this is still one of those experiences to which saying ‘No’ seems a positive thing.
23rd March, 2017

Rahele by Neela Vermeire

Aerodynamic mixed floral, light and lilting, with all the buffed sheen and sparkle of an aldehydic classic – but sans the aldehydes. (Or at least not in any starring role.) The main quality of this perfume is a gentle dreamlike lift reminiscent of a spring breeze.
The prominent floral note in the bouquet is osmanthus, but evoked in an airy, billowy manner, that is reminiscent of some interpretations of orange blossom and with the yellow fruit nuance abstract, just a hint of something juicy. The way it is blended with the citrus and cardamom at the top is elegant and sure – the notes merge effortlessly into one another without the trace of a join, a Duchaufour signature by now. And that is characteristic of the perfume as a whole – it has a diffuse radiance, its floral character seemingly built on pure suggestion rather than prominent note differentiation. Indeed the heavy hitters mentioned as base notes, stay completely submerged in the main, providing invisible support.
This has an India-related backstory as do other offerings from this house, but it adds nothing to this cool and refreshing delight, a wing-flap of a perfume. Also common to other Vermeire offerings, it has demure projection and after about four hours what’s left of it is pretty much a skin scent with some powdery wood in the mix. Still, a beauty while it lasts.

Notes according to the Neela Vermeire website:
Top notes
Green mandarin, cardamom, cinnamon, violet leaf absolute

Heart notes
Osmanthus absolute, rose absolute, magnolia, jasmine absolute, iris, violet

Base notes
Cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, leather

23rd March, 2017

Osmanthus Interdite by Parfum d'Empire

It’s easy to dismiss Osmanthus Interdite on first encounter as yet another watery, pale tea floral (y’know weak white/green tea front and indistinct white florals burbling behind it in the manner of numerous spa offerings).
But then it rounds on the wearer in the heart phase, growing denser and dirtier, releasing the fruit pulp and old leather scent associated with osmanthus, against a custard-like background. It verges on the slightly sick-making aspect of the fruit spectrum (a bit like how a ripe papaya has an unmistakable hint of vomit to it), with the leather throwing its weight behind that impression, but is held in check by the fresher tea and aquatic tones. A curious, unusual thing that I can’t say I’ve acquired a taste for yet.
However, there is one more step in its evolution and it is towards an airier fruitiness (lemony apricot), with the dirtier elements all but gone, the osmanthus clusters diffusing their lingering scent in a gentle breeze. This is the point of arrival this perfume was aiming for all along.
23rd February, 2017

Eternal Voyage by Auphorie

Have you set sail on an amber quest? Don’t forget to take a ride in Auphorie’s Eternal Voyage, which presents the piney, smoky, vanillic labdanum that is at the heart of the amber accord to beautiful effect. While retaining the richness associated with this family, there is a brightness and lightness of touch that is often missing from many ambers. This one dances.
I keep getting wafts of a sweet green herbal scent in the mix, reminiscent of newly flowering lavender - and its good mate tonka is there too lending further pleasantness and a hint of powder. So far so lively. Spices here are cleverly tucked into a supporting role – present and butch when sniffed close to the skin, but unobtrusive in the throw of the perfume. The overall impression is of a lively amber kissed by a fougère.
Staying power is a bit disappointing for an amber – I was reaching to refresh every four hours.
23rd February, 2017

Vanille d'Iris by Ormonde Jayne

The jet set doesn’t appeal to me. All that greed, narcissism and preening competitiveness – no thanks. But I will admit to being more susceptible to its airbrushed imagery – a kind of genteel pastel glam (we’re talking ancien not nouveau darling, do keep up) that is all about being immaculately distant. Vanille d’Iris has some of that quality, being probably the best lipstick iris I have encountered, subtle, lightly suedey, with a few puffs of ultra-light smoke hanging around its entrance. It’s not a perfume to focus upon, but one that moves around you like a fine haze. The vanilla is far recessed in the mix, a touch of sweet padding at the back that does not upset the sheerness. If one wants to feel discretely fabulous, like the kind of person who maintains a matte porcelain visage in the stinking heat, this is the one.

10th February, 2017

Treffpunkt 8 Uhr by J.F. Schwarzlose

Salty vetiver with an undertone of fruitiness that immediately suggested immortelle to my nose rather than the declared notes. It has a slightly sweaty, old vellum quality but also plenty of lift, giving it an energizing feel. Dry and savoury, it seems designed for casual summer use or as a background hum to a busy day at the office. Nothing like the full-on layered marvel of this house’s Trance, but pretty good in its own stripped back way. During the course of the day it seems to take a shower, with the vetiver getting increasingly clean and fresh and a green mango note finally revealing itself. We’re in Timbuktu’s backyard now.
10th February, 2017

Rosa Nigra by Unum

Rosa Nigra was made for reclining in ‘the cloud’ surely, as it’s so peachy and fluffy and no doubt circled by ‘likes’. These words from a Lene Lovich song seem apt: ‘Too tender to touch, too fragile to lust’. Rosa Nigra’s is a roseate fantasy princess world, everything’s a pink musky haze and the gentlest of rose and vanilla tones plump out the impression of peach at the start. It seems to be a perfume about to collapse into powder at any minute; all that candyfloss muskiness is surely headed that way.
But, oh no, it stays aerial and pinky, synthetic for sure, but kitschy kooky, and I find myself quite enjoying its mindlessness despite my better judgment. Maybe I am of an age when I am allowed to have Barbie moments without the accompanying shame of letting down all of humankind.
10th February, 2017

Orange Aoud by Montale

An odd little number, which wrong foots the wearer at first into thinking this is high on hygiene what with its soap-and-talcum-powder florals of utterly ambiguous pedigree. Light in a surprisingly un-Montale way, it seems like a ‘why did they bother?’ kind of perfume.
But then what started as a pleasant but inconsequential floral starts shifting gears, when first a similarly indifferent attempt at leather (except this smells more like the inside of a rubber washing up glove) and then a pretty vague ‘oud’ (faintly woody and ever so apologetically cheesy, like a shock-chilled brie) join in. Slowly the florals recede until they’re just a fringe and the leather and oud begin to expand and unwind, with a bit of a nod to Montale’s striking Aoud Cuir d’Arabie. Except that this is much politer.
And then several hours further, the whole thing starts to turn around with those light florals taking the spotlight again, but this time with their leather and oud heart pumping within. The longer one wears it, the more it appeals but there’s no escaping that this is a pretty subdued offering for this house. And about as orange as spinach.
10th February, 2017

Nuit de Noël by Caron

A warm embrace, that gathers and holds and keeps you close. Nuit de Noël offers a reassurance that classical perfumery, with its layering and orchestration, has still so much to tell us and that its message can be of warmth and love. But the first thing it seems to be saying in its enclosing hug is: ‘Be not afraid.’ For here is a perfume of great boldness, albeit dressed in golden raiment and with a softness of touch that defies you to equate daring with any kind of militancy.
Upfront is a huge floral bouquet, with a rich and heady jasmine as its star; it has an amazing carnal warmth tempered by the classic understudy note of rose. The rose is here purely to round out and refine the opulent jasmine, rather than shine in its own right, and it performs this selfless function perfectly in the service of a luminous (yet far from transparent) floral accord.
In keeping with the classic manner the florals are wrapped in layer upon refined layer. Ambery-musky tones, a gauzy powder, a tremendously complex woody layer that feels like a perfume in its own right, accents of moss here rendered warm by the glow of the rest, all suggest great depths and familiar mysteries. I smell matured and tempered spices, balsams, candied orange and patisserie almond and chestnut preparations. It matters little if there are corresponding ingredients to these impressions – this is a perfume that suggests so many things, none in discord. This is its gift, accept it and be rewarded.
Despite a noticeable moss note, I would hesitate to call Nuit de Noël a chypre – it has none of that family’s briskness or angularity. Instead, there is oriental warmth and luxury, contained within a classic sense of structure – there is no sprawl to it. That classicism gives it an antique quality but one that is sympathetic, full of character and so much more giving than the distortions of nostalgia.
10th February, 2017

Endymion by Penhaligon's

Penhaligon’s have some of the most romantic perfume names, all so faery lands forlorn. One feels the appropriate state to be receiving such offerings is on a purple velvet chaise longue, emerald green cravat at throat fastened with appropriate gem-studded jewel, a tiny crystal glass filled with rare firewater to hand.
Alas, the perfumes themselves often tend to suffer from overtly synthetic smelling bases, and Endymion is no exception. Here a grating peppery-woody base infused with bilious-making aquatics sinks the enterprise which started pleasantly enough as a fresh musky-powdery barbershop cologne. Call me a snob but that offensive base just shrieks ‘cheap’.
10th February, 2017

Nejma 1 by Nejma

A perfume where the notes list proves somewhat unreliable. An engaging, deeply bitter creation that is an oud in leather drag. Smell Nejma 1 up close and it is the smell of wet bark: bitter, inedible, somewhat musty, with great depth. There are floral notes in there but completely embedded in the woodiness. A trace of dry saffron is the only spicing that registers. There’s also a doughy quality to the mix (especially in the first half) that is reminiscent of iris.
In its trail, however, the experience is mainly of a dark, luxurious and smoothly executed leather – it’s a refined blend, rich and full of character (that bracing bitterness stays constant), yet not at all heavy.
06th February, 2017

Papyrus de Ciane by Parfumerie Generale

A perfume curio that juxtaposes a volley of greens (bitter galbanum, astringent moss, other herbal accents) and not-quite-greens (sweetish hay tones) against feathery jasmine-like florals and lavender soap. One of those ‘shouldn’t really work but it does’ combinations that pulls off a bracing verdant freshness softened by soapy comfort. It’s one of those perfumes that doesn’t reward paying too much close attention to (the notes duck and bob a bit too much for that); just wear it and your step will be lighter and your day a little brighter.
06th February, 2017

Rozy Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo

When a perfume opens with the kind of concentrated greasiness that marks Rozy it is a statement of intent (and confidence). It says, bear with me, I have gifts to bestow, treasures to unfold.
Rozy, in its first act, is to my nose a grand perfume in the manner of Amouage’s Gold offerings: rich, opulent, giving the impression of tremendous detail, and definitely not for everyone. The layering of three notes – passionfruit, rose and honey – is dizzying, effulgent even, and yet composed with the deep soundness of classic perfumery.
The passionfruit with its joyous tartness makes the dense sweetness of the rest more palatable; the note isn’t light, instead it’s as if passionfruit curd had been translated into an olfactory instead of a gustatory delight. The rose is jammy with a touch of heady hyacinth for support. And the honey is unctuous, with a pronounced warm beeswax aspect bringing an animalic buzz. They join together into something that is full on and exuberant.
However, the second act sees the balance significantly altered, with the honey still blazing away but the passionfruit and rosy florals greatly dimmed. Much of the texture of the scent is lost, and we end up somewhere between Minya’s Hedonist and Xerjoff’s Al-Khat. Not a bad place to be but somewhat monotonous in its syrupiness after the dazzle of the first half.

06th February, 2017

Stargazer 7.71 by Yosh

Cool green lily and lily of the valley cross which has an undertone of the plastic-meets-mushrooms aspect found in the latter. Not the shrieking harpy lily that some experienced – but maybe that is because I tried the EDP not the oil. But also nothing that made me sit up and take notice despite a shaded pond-side feel about it. It’s fresh, it’s casual, parts of it smell a bit synthetic, it’s alright but run of the mill, and yes, I suppose it could get quite unrelenting if you’re not a particular fan of white florals.
06th February, 2017

Tropical Wood by Montale

Don’t judge a perfume by its notes list is an attitude I try to hang on to when testing, in order to be open and receptive to what's in the bottle (or can, in this case) rather than being nudged by expectation. But I must admit that the notes to Tropical Wood had my eyebrows arching before the first puff landed on my skin. Dear oh dear, acidic fruit like passion fruit and pineapple combining with the sweetest of floral notes with oud and leather heaped on as well? It would take a miracle worker to create something compelling from these.
I’m sad to announce no miracle awaits. The opening is intensely hard-boiled and jammy, with the concentrated tropical fruity notes almost declaring war on the rose-syrup led florals. The woody note seems to hang around the edges like an uninvited guest, unintegrated.
After a while, much of the dense fruit dissipates and we are back in pretty familiar Montale territory, a musked-up hairspray rose with a woody backing, the point of difference being that the woods rendition is pretty smooth, almost sheer, rather than dark and patchoulied. Montale has released far too many offerings in a similar vein and they are mostly fairly competent, but there’s little to them that would make me want to adopt one. One can do equally well, even better, with the glut of options from cut-price Arabic houses.

06th February, 2017

Ylang Ylang by Lorenzo Villoresi

Signal flare going up – ylang lovers, here’s one you will want to try. The opening minutes are striking: creating the impression of a blooming flower rather than the more sultry unctuousness that we are familiar with from the essential oil. The top is fresh with subtle hints of foliage, open and expansive, which is quite unusual, as ylang’s density often works against such an interpretation. There are hints of clove-tinged carnation and a distinct supporting creamy tiare note keeping things tropical.
As the perfume settles, some of the freshness dissipates to be replaced with the familiar honeyed ylang languor and a clearer ‘white floral’ identity (with jasmine also making itself known in the floral bouquet), but it never sags or becomes cloying; instead it relaxes into a chic classicism, floating like a haze around the wearer.
Its one drawback – and it’s a minor one – is that perhaps it ought to have focussed more closely on its lead player instead of bringing on the white floral chamber ensemble to quite the extent it does. For example, for all the assemblage of Perris’s Ylang Ylang Nosy Be there is a clear trickle of nectar-like golden ylang of a quality that makes you sit up and take notice running right through it. Here, one marvels at the well-rounded beauty of the entire cloud, but some of ylang’s distinctiveness gets blurred.
06th February, 2017

Néa by Jul et Mad

If this came in a glass bowl I’d eat it, no problem. I’m a bit less keen on wearing it because it does something so familiar at this point in time that an odour quite similar to this one flares from someone or the other at almost any social gathering one may go to.
Néa is fruity gumdrops in a pool of caramel. As with many of these dessert gourmands note differentiation is beside the point, and here everything is a thoroughly blended and smoothed out whole. The fruity accent is about as interesting as it gets – if I had to plump for a particular fruit I’d go for pomegranate. There is a bit of a puckering tang to it, but gumdrops is its destiny. A brief flash of something a bit mouldy-boozy at the start is soon covered by the voluminous robes of creamy caramel.
Néa is quite comforting and easy going, but has all the character of a peeled potato. It also, surprisingly for this kind of perfume, deflates considerably in projection after the first few hours. Go for the plentiful budget alternatives instead if you really must.

28th January, 2017