Perfume Reviews

Reviews by gimmegreen

Total Reviews: 907

N°15 Extrait de Parfum by Auphorie

Auphorie marks its 15th creation with an abstract perfume of finesse and aerodynamism. It’s just as well they’ve chosen a mouthwash blue-green for the colour of this liquid as the feel of this perfume is of wide open (scented) air merging constantly into springwater arising from a source ringed by soft fantasy florals and greens – and then turning back to air. The intention may have been to showcase orris butter but the wearer may be forgiven for coming away with a completely different perception. If there’s one predominant note to this composition it is a cool, almost minty violet leaf, bittersweet and fluffed out by soft florals and the abiding airiness of No 15.
Accents of clovey spice, woodshavings and musky ambrette that lurk close to the skin are the only deviations from the clean blue-green theme in the first half. But this is an aero-aquatic with a difference – it doesn’t pelt you with faux cucumbers and melons, there is no recognizable calone drone, nothing vaguely industrial, and it doesn’t get headachey. It’s floating and persistent, and whatever the synthetics used, the result is olfactory harmony.
Later on, the perfume condenses somewhat and undergoes a by-degrees character change with a more earthbound leather and resinous woody aspect coming into view without affecting the overall lightness of touch.

16th March, 2018

Une Amourette Roland Mouret by Etat Libre d'Orange

A perfume of glamourous evasion, leading one on with promises, reminding one that anticipation is pleasurable in itself. From its fizzing start, like the fine stream of champagne bubbles in a tulip, to its lovely dough-and-blonde-leather iris segue, to the breezy not-quite neroli, rather something cool and vaguely orangey but also floral, to the sprinkle of pepperiness that seems to have a pale green flush (apparently the denatured patchouli that is the Givaudan discovery Akigalawood), this is a perfume that shifts constantly, but keeps a smooth, sophisticated veneer throughout. Its ‘not quites’ seem to be ripe with possibilities, all contained.
It isn’t a loud perfume when it begins and when it finally settles around a vaporwave fantasy neroli it does get really quiet – if this is a crush as the name suggests, it is a bashful one.
16th March, 2018

Vanhera by Laboratorio Olfattivo

A curious confluence – a creamy vanilla, smooth in the manner of plug-in room fresheners, grafted on to peppery woods that recall certain synthetic ouds. This one also brings a prickle to the back of the throat courtesy of something chilli-like – possibly the Sichuan pepper mentioned in the notes. I think the intention here was to give us a deep, dark, spicy vanilla without sacrificing a buffed ‘sophisticated’ feel to the whole. Unfortunately the elements here seem not quite ready to be united in the opening phases, and Vanhera fares little better when it settles, with an indigestible level of spiciness overwhelming the composition.
16th March, 2018
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Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi

Thrillingly butch to begin – humid, inky and quinine bitter woody tones pierced by the sharp saltiness of celery and dry cumin. It’s an enlivening mix, where the assertive main players are wrapped in a halo of freshness – the latter in part deriving from aspects of the sweet and dusky vetiver itself, but there are also lifting elements like lavender, herbal notes and citruses all unobtrusively incorporated. The perfume seems to be straining between suave slickness and a kind of pants-popping vigour, a tension that is rather fun to be part of.
Once it has settled into the drydown some hours in, it becomes much more centred on vetiver – but fortunately it’s a broad spectrum incarnation with the dank, earthy side of the root getting as much play as the barbershop one. Lovely, if a bit modest in terms of its trail.
16th March, 2018

Vocalise by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

Syrupy floral that is all granny spectacles and talcum powder. There are hints of cassis and foliage but they are tucked away under the petticoat of sickly primness that is the main mode of expression here. Such a sugar-laden floral needs to be over the top and doing high-kicks in blood-red satin in order to work. Instead this is a demure and somewhat hygienic affair (in an old-school cake of soap kind of way) with modest projection.
16th March, 2018

Rose Gold by Ormonde Jayne

Gorgeous cool rose, brightened with uplifting hesperidic notes, light, gently diffusive and energizing, with the only concession to weight in its opening being its backing of skin-like ambrette. In its first few hours Rose Gold is like an after-shower rose splash elevated to the realms of serious perfumery – and that’s not a back-handed compliment. It’s a pleasure to encounter a rose perfume that demands your attention for its dewy, airy freshness, rather than going for more familiar deeper, darker pleasures weighted down with heavy olfactory jewellery. This spins out like gossamer and calls out to spring regardless of the season.
The noticeable lime accent that lingers for a good four or five hours brings to mind Amouage’s Lyric, but only fleetingly, as this perfume has much gauzier, soft-focus aims. In the later stages, Rose Gold gets a few degrees warmer as the smooth and dry sandal in its base pairs up with the musk, without any loss, however, of its airy quality. This is when a slow transition begins where the tissue of the former perfume slides off almost imperceptibly to reveal a base that is a fuller blend of a honeyed rose with rich woods but pitched in that discreet, ‘listen to me because I won’t shout’ Ormonde Jayne manner. The next day in the shower, when the water revives the last traces, the wearer may be surprised to find that they have been wearing an oud after all.
The price point is painful and is probably intended to exclude, what with the usual OJ guff about using pricy absolutes. Still there is no denying the artistry involved.

26th February, 2018

Note de Luxe by Evody

Warm resins and vanilla concoction with some waxy iris and powdery floral touches. Sounds alright as a string of perfume accents, but it’s all in the execution, and this one waddles rather than flies. It has a lethargic density, though not being particularly heavy, and none of the ingredients is particularly ennobled by their use in it. Plodding stuff that I regret wearing.
26th February, 2018

Ilanguara by Phaedon

Like wearing felt or corduroy – thick, warm and slightly furry. So many modern gourmands and resinous creations have that feel about them, and the results are rarely impressive. It’s a similar story with Ilanguara, where a benzoin-vanilla combo, laced with sweet denatured almond tones, makes for a middling perfume – the overall effect is pleasant but pasty, nothing really sings or shines. It settles with an enervating flump on one’s skin and that’s my main objection to it rather than the syrupy odour profile – all those creamy resins, balms and woods (the notes include benzoin, copaiba balm, gurjan balsam, cedar and guaiac) turned to dull brown corduroy .
26th February, 2018

Galantuomo by Bottega Profumiera

Galantuomo is all about civilized spice – it’s wrapped in balsams and soapy and refreshing notes (something citrusy, something like a lavender sachet for your linen drawer). The spices are as far removed from the kitchen as you can get and thoroughly blended – something spicy, you would say, rather than cinnamon or nutmeg. I find it all a bit of a something – somewhere in the middle of the woody-spicy men’s rack with a somewhat fougère-like breeze blowing through it. All a bit standard, lacking the richness or vibrancy that could indicate a decent budget for the formulation, and neither here nor there for my taste.
26th February, 2018

Euphoria by Calvin Klein

A bright and fulsome fruity floral that is post-Angel but not postlapsarian; it’s rich and juicy but keeps to the clean path that is CK’s definer despite inflections of wood and spice. Nonetheless Euphoria is a strong foray into this genre, with lovely tart, bitter yet sweet fruitiness to the fore in the opening (a deep purple fantasy pomegranate dripping with juice), lifted with accents of green freshness but also immediately paired with a darker, fudgier floral accord that belongs firmly in the plush velvet realms of modern perfumery ‘orchids’. Lurking behind this play of purple and noir elements, lit by the strong arc lights of the house emphasis on clean, are rounded, sweet woody notes and just a suggestion of spice. This is CK playing with oriental shade, while keeping the stage at all times brightly lit.
This isn’t a perfume of layers or depth – once the elements are slotted in and settled, that’s that, but it is impressive and energetic for about 4 hours. After which it falls down into a mush of sweet nothings in the base.
26th February, 2018

Bracken Man by Amouage

So what can Amouage give us in a fougère, that would make it stand out and justify the usual big bucks price tag? At first, it seems, the answer to that question is ‘very little’. A bracing, singing high note of lavender backed by polite lemony citrus establishes the ‘just showered’ feel of the genre, after which it is time for the starched shirt and the business day. Discreet, fragrant coniferous woods and shimmery, refined spices provide a deepening of Bracken’s abiding freshness and give it a more serious, ‘get to work’ demeanour. Down at the bottom there is a grounding scent reminiscent of damp earth with leaf and wood mulch that makes this a bit less boardroom overall and gives the parfumista a little something different to the usual refined barbershop offering that we’ve seen dozens of times before.
There’s a cool-warm theme to this creation what with the spicing balanced against the trad fougère elements, making it a good choice on a lethargic winter day when one is having trouble getting going. And its sillage is expansive and suave, all swept back hair and trimmed fingernails, broadcasting ‘gent’ in olfactory morse. All of which is all very well, but this is still over-mined territory and as I tend to find most fougères a bit of a yawn, not for me.
26th February, 2018

Bois d'Ascèse by Naomi Goodsir

An ingeniously engineered perfume that combines rooty, earthy wood, the smoke of twigs and dried leaves, the salt of dried sweat, cured tobacco and booze into a creation that is anything but stale or heavy, but curls around the wearer’s skin in an energetic invitation to the outdoors. Perhaps the trick is that the dreaded leaden ambery backing that such notes usually receive is here kept well in check or perhaps it’s the excellent volume control – one receives this challenging mélange in little puffs rather than in gales. So instead of making you feel like you’ve woken up with a hangover in a shuttered bar, reeking of everything that enclosed space and its ancient carpeting contained the night before, it keeps pulling you towards campfires and open spaces, particularly in the drydown where the smokiness becomes the overriding spirit. It’s only late in the day that a leathery amber clumps into dominant mode but by then it is time for bed.
26th February, 2018

Bouquet Massai by Parfumerie Generale

A nice pink petals on brioche opening soon deflates to a mumblecore, vague summery floral after-shower splash scenario. A bit of tropical sultriness in the form of some more honeyed floral notes remains contained within the abiding fluff of its persona. Overall this has the demeanour of the willing-to-please work experience person whose name everyone keeps forgetting.
07th February, 2018
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Aoud Jasmine by Montale

A disappointing plasticky opening where all the elements seem denatured and synthetic gives way to a fluffy abstract composition where all the elements still seem denatured and synthetic but no longer offensively so. So what was a bottom of the vat non-indolic jasmine aromachemical combined with completely chemical suggestions of greenish fruit – apples, pears as flavourings rather than as true versions of themselves – ultimately relaxes into something that’s friendlier on the nostrils. Pumped full of airy musks it wafts bright and casual in the manner of some summery fruity florals. It has a pleasing trail and a goofy grin on its face but doesn’t quite shed the budget associations of such things. As for the (a)oud – where? where? where? Did I blink and miss it?
What ultimately wore me down was the complete lack of texture of the thing once it has settled – it’s as uniform as high gloss paint and, as the hours go by (yes, it has the usual Montale persistence), just as boring.
07th February, 2018

Soie Rouge by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

A zesty, green and spicy carnation crossed with a juicy, pulpy fruit chord halfway between apricot and mango – it can seem like a floral puddle until the nose adjusts, but then I found the combo quite unusual, uplifting and refreshing. It has an old-fashioned soapy sweetness to it that may be off-putting to some, but look past that and this is a fruity floral with a gutsiness missing from much of this family, courtesy mainly of the carnation which comes intact with a bit of pepper and clove prickle.
07th February, 2018

Rrose Sèlavy by Maria Candida Gentile

Having given us the innocent decadence of Sideris, a personal favourite rose perfume that seems purifying and sumptuous at once, I sit up and take notice anytime Gentile goes near a rose. Rrose Sèlavy is as playful as its Dadaist cross-dressing inspiration, coming across as a giant rose bush stage decoration, the real presented as artifice, untidy and yet framed.
The rosy notes here are sappy and undulating – no particular type of rose seems to be highlighted, rather all kinds of rosy accents from darker velvety tones to almost watery pink ones bustle about. They are set in a nimbus of twigs, leaves, dry hay and windblown fronds of anise which seems to expand with time. But there are also backstage scents of face powder and skin musk lurking here, weaving in and out of perception.
While the perfume has undoubted presence, its character is of a light, skipping being with a mission to meld the categories of nature and artifice and not be too fastidious about it.
07th February, 2018

Monsieur by Huitième Art

Sleek and swift, this Monsieur has one simple goal it seems – to offer a polished sweet cedar scent for our times. Synthetic woody aromachemicals are of course a given in such a scenario, but this single-minded creation does deliver on a welcoming woody scent, all warm hairy chest and tender embrace, with a sympathetic supporting cast of smoke, resins, even oudy overtones playing with the essential friendly good nature of the cedar. Executed with finesse, it seems to adjust to the wearer’s skin, creating a tailored layer of honest woody goodness, which is fulfilling when one pays attention to it and unobtrusive when going about one’s business. ‘Let be’ and ‘be well’, it seems to say – important messages, especially for frantic urbanites. A light spiciness – hints of saffron and black pepper – emerges in the late stages.
The trail it leaves is annoyingly less accomplished – much more obviously synthetic than what the wearer experiences for themselves.
07th February, 2018

Eau d'Épices by Tauer

Eau d’Épices seems to have come and gone rather quickly – at least I presume it’s gone as it is no longer listed for sale on the Tauer site. It’s a bit contrary to the expectations raised by its name as the spices seem covered by a cooling, starchy layer of orris-violet waxiness. These are not warming spices, they feel distant, locked up and a bit old. What does burst into life is a juicy orange blossom, redolent of high summer and light. And, indeed, in Eau d’Épices’s trail this is what others will smell, something golden and floral, a bit clean and soapy, with an accent of amber. This is an appealing olfactory halo to carry around, though the experience on skin is not as transparent.
The spices and a touch of seaside skin courtesy of the ambergris give the feel of a Caron-like base, which should glow like a hearth from the core of this perfume, but there seems also to be a constant damping down of it that ages the scent profile somewhat. It sits a bit uneasily with the florals and is bridged somewhat by some incense smoke and shavings of dry wood bark.
At which point this reviewer was guilty of staring at the pixels and ignoring the picture, because if one stops analyzing the architecture, real or imagined, one is in the presence of a breezy, orange blossom-led perfume, with a good presence and a burble of complexity in the background to keep things interesting but lighter than most Tauer creations. That, actually, is more than enough.
07th February, 2018

Cuir Altesse by David Jourquin

Such a generous and inviting leather and patchouli combo – and I say that without arched brow either, despite my not caring for either of those notes being upfront in perfumery. But Cuir Altesse is something different – I spray it on a few times and then think, ‘Maybe one or two more.’ Any perfume that’s doing that is doing something right.
Here it seems to be the harmonious boozy sweetness that permeates the creation mellowing out both leather and patchouli, and putting one in a lazy, winter afternoon before the fire state of mind. No doubt this mood is enhanced by dark and fudgy vanilla and tonka, and refined spices, but the overall effect is expansive and embracing, not sticky and cloying. Attention-getting and yet not overbearing, this has hostess with the mostest written all over it.
07th February, 2018

Mon Seul Désir by Jul et Mad

Sheer leather, full of airy musk, with orangey citrus at the top and smooth woody-floral notes with coriander seed at their centre. Air-brushed and attractive, but a bit short on projection. This is a cool, chic take on leather, almost an anti-leather in its chiffon-like feel. I would have been wowed had its presence been a bit more marked.

13th January, 2018

Midnight Datura by Parfums Quartana

Mega-sweetened off-white floral, a kind of Turkish Delight for the nose, although the olfactory impression is closer to bubble gum. Midnight Datura seems to share the same sickly, overfed DNA as some of the more ‘blossom’ oriented recent Amouages, the opulence of the notes somehow achieving little more than a syrupy puddle. An earth and mushrooms dimension in the later stages is somehow less interesting than it sounds.
13th January, 2018

Jãbir by Al Kimiya

Floral ferment! Jabir is a kind of perfumery miso – clears the brain and feeds the jaded nose. It offers a riot of fresh florals with the open, citrusy-sweet overtures of freesia in the lead but also shades of dewy peony and the more persistent presence of lily of the valley, alongside the more traditional sweeter rosy tones, and funks them up with a sourish, curdled, runny cheese like oud. Guess what? The combination is striking, quirky, and perks one up – and reminiscent of the bouquet from a chilled glass of good late harvest Tokaji wine.
Jabir has a strong dose of vague musks – the kind much favoured by the likes of Montale – that create an almost hairspray haze extending the reach and diffusion of the perfume. This can have the unfortunate effect of blearing the whole composition, and that is somewhat the case here – but when the blend has such an effervescence it doesn’t bother me. Side effect of Jabir – makes one itch for a party to go to, it has that kind of ‘wa-hey!’ energy.
(Yup, that price tag is ridiculous – a case of the hangover preceding the party.)
The later stages are more conventional, with Jabir turning into a woody rose in the Arabian style, which is also fine, but for a good four or five hours it is much, much more.
13th January, 2018

Invasion Barbare / SB by MDCI

What a smoothie! The woody-spicy cliché mates with the lavender-heavy barbershop fougère and – wonder of wonders – no-one’s honour is lost. When playing to such broad audiences with thousands of perfumes riffing on a similar mix of ingredients, it is largely the finish of the thing rather than any claim to originality that matters. So when Invasion Barbare steps out the door with every hair in place and each fleck dusted off its clothes, it means the care that has gone into polishing it is exemplary. This thing is the baby’s (hygienic) bottie.
The cool, sweetly-cooing, sprinkled with talc, lavender fougère half (shades of Rive Gauche) is matched seamlessly with oriental warmth – ginger, that gives a spice accent but with zest, and woods. The other harmonizing notes – a subtle citric fringe, soapy cardamom and gently bracing violet greens – also contribute to the immaculate maquillage.
While I admire the skill, I find the creature Invasion Barbare summons to my mind is boardroom man, a being with whom I share no affinity. I also find the lavender a touch too sweet for my taste – I often do. And the projection is moderate. This will sound like perfection to many – however, it makes me long for a touch of recklessness.
13th January, 2018

Eau Parfumée au Thé Rouge by Bulgari

Sharp, ‘aquatic’ tea with a twist of lime and green fig that smells like those overly synthetic hand wash aromas that drive one to wash again with something else just to get the darn stuff off. Sure, it’s cool and summery, but regrettably on the cheap.
13th January, 2018

Cuir Tabac by David Jourquin

Well-turned out patchouli and cured tobacco jobbie with only a small role for a bit of aged leather. Will prompt all the usual cliché’s of gentlemen’s clubs and aristrocrats’ libraries – reader, pray use your own fantasy, mine is a bit exhausted in this particular area. Of most note is the surprisingly bright aroma profile (judiciously used lavender), that the patchouli is quite juicy with almost fruity nuances, rather than Darth Vader’s armpit (which it sometimes can be), and there’s a feel of vanilla and furry musk lying beneath it all.
Smart and outgoing, and quite reminiscent of many square-jawed designer ‘masculines’ in similar territory, so think twice before paying the extortionate price.
13th January, 2018

Cape Heartache by Imaginary Authors

Fire and ice. The chilly greens and clear mountain air feel of conifers combined with wood smoke and the resinous warmth of pine sap demonstrate that this is a trick worth pulling. Recommended for winter with its core of heat and frost-touched crust. Over time an odd player emerges – first, just a juicy sweetness, then something that resembles a candied strawberry. Perceptions of this note weave in and out of the largely coniferous feel of the rest – it should be out of place but somehow isn’t. Like a successful cocktail made of ingredients that nobody thought of mixing together before.
I shouldn’t sing its praises too highly, as it remains a pine dominant scent and if that doesn’t appeal to you, then you’re unlikely to be won over.
13th January, 2018

Alahine by Téo Cabanel

Old school creamy balsamic amber with such smoothness one expects it to moisturize one’s skin. Resins provide warmth and a heartbeat, but don’t mess with the overall silkiness. Floral aspects are veiled and gauzy. And in the base there’s a small nod to power – something that smells of worn leather and crumbled wood lurks within.
All in all this is a supremely easy wear, it slips on like a flowing robe, suggestive of effortless if not inexpensive chic in a bygone style. However, when it settles it also deflates and one realizes that all the emphasis on smoothness results in a flattening out – the vanillic notes in Alahine perhaps drape the thing a bit too much so that contours are lost, and a sweet orangey opoponax-like feel (I’m thinking of Les Néréides’ Opoponax) makes it all seem a bit mono.
13th January, 2018

Firedance by Ruth Mastenbroek

The most unusual rose of 2017 and one that really rings my bell – tingaling-lingling. This is the full joss stick experience, an amazingly smoky and cindery rose perfume that is also packed full of the creamy woods and musky freshness that form the odour profile of Indian agarbathis. The patchouli here has an expansive almost mentholated embrace and the whole experience is halfway between the flowers and smouldering joss sticks laid at a shrine and the silky languor of an old faithful’s boudoir. It pricks the senses and relaxes in equal measure.
I can imagine this may be somewhat polarizing, its scent leans so decidedly towards Indian notions of what makes a good fragrance, rather than a Western interpretation of the East. But for a deep, dusty and smoky rose backed with finely milled dark wood, Firedance is beautifully judged and just right. In the late stages the rose opens up and brushes the wearer with a damask softness.

24th December, 2017 (last edited: 28th December, 2017)

J'ai Fait Un Rêve Lui by Majda Bekkali

Strange opening that first reads like a back alley Montale – cleaning product lemon meets vague saffron spice and light woody-oudy notes. But it settles quickly into a sheer linden-like cloud backed by buffed woods and spice (the diffusive woody musky cashmeran playing a significant role). It has a proper presence while still seeming to be suspended and nebulous as a burst of aerosol. Coming to this now, I can see it is a clear precursor to Micallef’s similarly under-rated Akowa which wowed me with its originality. J’ai Fait is a bit less piercing and single-minded, and Akowa doesn’t have its subtle spice and faint suggestion of oud, but this is clearly where this short family line begins. Unusual and enchanting.
Now goes by the name J'ai Fait Un Rêve Obscur.
24th December, 2017

Santal Tislit by Maison Incens

It’s interesting what passes for sandalwood these days. In this case it is a measly deposit of slightly sweetish wood shavings with a few puffs of heliotrope-scented hairspray. The chief failing of Santal Tislit, however, is its utterly pants projection. Some perfumes one can wear and forget, but few actively solicit such forgetting as this does, as, despite liberal spraying, you are unlikely to smell very much at all.
24th December, 2017