Aerodynamic mixed floral, light and lilting, with all the buffed sheen and sparkle of an aldehydic classic – but sans the aldehydes. (Or at least not in any starring role.) The main quality of this perfume is a gentle dreamlike lift reminiscent of a spring breeze.
The prominent floral note in the bouquet is osmanthus, but evoked in an airy, billowy manner, that is reminiscent of some interpretations of orange blossom and with the yellow fruit nuance abstract, just a hint of something juicy. The way it is blended with the citrus and cardamom at the top is elegant and sure – the notes merge effortlessly into one another without the trace of a join, a Duchaufour signature by now. And that is characteristic of the perfume as a whole – it has a diffuse radiance, its floral character seemingly built on pure suggestion rather than prominent note differentiation. Indeed the heavy hitters mentioned as base notes, stay completely submerged in the main, providing invisible support.
This has an India-related backstory as do other offerings from this house, but it adds nothing to this cool and refreshing delight, a wing-flap of a perfume. Also common to other Vermeire offerings, it has demure projection and after about four hours what’s left of it is pretty much a skin scent with some powdery wood in the mix. Still, a beauty while it lasts.
Notes according to the Neela Vermeire website:
Green mandarin, cardamom, cinnamon, violet leaf absolute
Osmanthus absolute, rose absolute, magnolia, jasmine absolute, iris, violet
Cedarwood, sandalwood, oakmoss, patchouli, leather