Sparkle, followed by Warmth
Liu eau de parfum opens with bright, sparkling aldehydes and white florals -- yes, at this stage there is similarity to Chanel's No 5. Although the projection is never uncomfortably far-reaching, after about an hour the aldehydes settle and rose softly joins the white jasmine, as the edp becomes warmer and closer in its projection. Then, for the next several hours the warm Guerlinade accord continually emerges, in place of the fading aldehydes...the gears have shifted gradually but definitely, from the bright opening to vanilla and warm, woody notes. Thinking back to the opening, it's hard to believe that Liu makes such a seamless, chiaroscuro transition during its 6 - 8 hours of longevity on my skin.
The one request I have is that Guerlain release a parfum concentration as a current option. Liu is a classic from Guerlain's late-20s, its sheer opening, due to the aldehydes, is an indication of changes that occurred in fragrances during the '20s, following the release of Guerlain's richer Shalimar in the early-20s. Although the current eau de parfum is lovely enough, it would be wonderful to experience the concentration of Liu in which it was originally developed, as I do with Shalimar.
Pros: Lovely development
Cons: Please re-release the parfum!"
Like the opening...
I like the unusually sharp, slightly astringent woodiness in opening of this fragrance. But after about an hour my nose perceives it as a linear turpentine, becoming tiresome and headache inducing for the next 8 - 10 hours.
Pros: good longevity
Cons: too linear"
Jean Patou Sublime edp
This is a review of Sublime eau de parfum, as originally created by Jean Kerleo for Patou in 1992. I understand that it has since been reformulated by Proctor & Gamble in the U.K., but I have no experience with the more recent version.
I would describe Sublime as an oriental woody-floral. For several seconds the opening of this fragrance made me think of Chanel's Bois des Iles in the Les Exclusifs. In fact, even the dry down of Sublime has some similarities to Bois des Iles, most noticeably sandalwood, ylang ylang and vanilla. But where the florals in Bois des Iles are a bit softer and include a lovely rose note, in Sublime I detect no rose, but instead a sweet orange not in BdI. Also, Sublime's vanilla note is considerably more pronounced than BdI's, as is vetiver, that balances the sweetness of the vanilla. Perhaps it's those last two mentioned notes that give Sublime edp more longevity than even BDI parfum, at least on my skin. IMO, BdI is certainly more refined and "beautiful", but Sublime is a bold, lush, enjoyable sandalwood fragrance in its own right.
Another Les Exclusifs to love
How could I have (almost) been so wrong about 31RC? At first testing, I felt the bergamot and florals in the opening were too sweet and feminine, and just over an hour later the entire fragrance seemed to completely vanish. Oh, well, not for me...or so I thought. What happened over the next 30 minutes, I had never experienced before -- the fragrance re-surfaced, bigger and fuller than its opening (!), supported by a beautiful, soft patchouli/woodiness. The slightly woody base creates an extremely sensual and well-blended dry down that lasts for about 6 hours and is fast becoming a favorite -- one that, amazingly, I initially almost passed over. Definitely male-friendly, and not too feminine.
The balance of this gorgeous fragrance, top to bottom, is masterful! The rose in the opening 15 minutes is the first Spring blossom of an Austin Fair Bianca. Along with the florals, a deft hint of vanilla over the creamy sandalwood result in BdI's dry down being soft and comfortable, yet grounded enough for a man to wear.
The lime is equally matched on my skin with coriander, in the form of both its seed and leaf. To me the coriander seed gives the lime/citrus an earthy, woody dimension, while its leaf adds a touch of green, soapiness that many associate with cilantro.
I am new to Russian Leather frags, and upon inquiring with my "regular" Neiman Marcus fragrance SA about getting a sample of Chanel Cuir de Russie, he told me that his store had a 2.5 oz. unused tester of Creed CdR that he could sell me since the frag is no longer available. Owning and enjoying flacons of several other Creed frags (Windsor, Selection Verte, Aventus) I took the chance on a blind buy since this fragrance is otherwise available mostly only through second hand sellers.
This CdR opens with a strong citrus similar to vintage Eau Sauvage, but then the birch tar note in CdR adds shiney black leather that has been freshly polished with wax. During the drydown the citrus gradually fades, allowing the soft leather to increasingly dominate. Projection is decent for about 3 hours, then a fairly close skin scent for another 3 - 4 hours.
21st December, 2012 (last edited: 26th December, 2012)
Norne is a very dense and natural pine and cedarwood fragrance. Along with the woody evergreens there is also an initial smokey frankincense. Some days the incense is more prominent and lingering on my skin than on other days. This is a great autumn and winter fragrance that, as its maker states, is comprised of 100% forest absolutes. A couple of sprays to the top side of each of my forearms results in longevity of at least 10 - 12 hours for me, with sufficient projection most of that time, giving Norne amazing projection and sillage for an all-natural composition. If you love the smell of a bed of sun-warmed fallen pine needles beautifully supported by incence of highest quality, I strongly recommend you sample Norne from Slumberhouse.
13th November, 2012 (last edited: 14th November, 2012)
I like this!!! After buying a bottle of Norne I ordered a sample set of Slumberhouse fragrances that includes Vikt. Immediately upon applying Vikt, the green coniferous scents that are so present in Norne appeared, but without Norne's smoke. Then after about 30 miniutes Vikt began opening up very differently from what I was expecting, based on my experience with Norne. While Norne keeps a dense pine/coniferous heart, Vikt becomes more spacious, open and lighter, gradually revealing a slight sweetness and woodiness that balances very nicely with the green opening. I can see Vikt taking me though the autumn, when I then transition in winter to Norne with its smokey fir.
I first get a mixture of pipe tobacco and saffron. After about an hour the tobacco begins to taper down and a sweet vanilla comes forward, while the saffron turns to curry (corriandar/cumin). Overall gourmand and oriental on my first wearing.
27th October, 2012 (last edited: 28th October, 2012)
Any initial brightness quickly disappears leaving a cloyingly sweet, powdery orange and vanilla. I bought a 50ml bottle of the edt about 20 years ago and it still contains about 80% of its juice. I tried over the years to like this "classic", but each time I felt myself becoming sickened by the densely sweet powder fragrance before washing it off.
First tested this at NM two weeks ago, and was not immediately impressed with it. The base scent lingered hauntingly on my metal watchband for several days. By the end of the week I ordered a flacon. Over the past week wearing it I have begun enjoying the fruity top notes more, but it's the softer base notes that continue to haunt me. Now I'm waiting for a sample of Windsor to arrive. This could become dangerous very quickly! ;-)