Perfume Reviews

Reviews by southerngardens

Total Reviews: 9

Borsalino by Borsalino

Borsalino is in the 80’s BIG aromatic fougere men’s fragrances from the venerable Italian Borsalino gentlemen’s Millinery dynasty. Along with every other fashion house in the 80’s, Borsalino jumped on the fragrance ‘bandwagon’. It seems that that decade of decadence paved the way for every fashion house, even if your specialty was cotton underwear, you had to have a fragrance to be in the “in” crowd.
I did not do Borsalino EDT justice by pigeon holing it as I did. It did share many notes of similar aromatic fougere of the era but is much more. The imagery of a dapper, handsome Italian gentleman in a well-made fedora is very appropriate to Borsalino as it is a drier, smokier and more sophisticated fougere than its contemporaries.
I believe still a relevant fragrance for wearing today and not just collecting.
03rd October, 2014

Ode by Guerlain

I have to say Ode is the most beautiful vintage extrait I have had the pleasure to wear to date. I have tried many of the masterpieces of perfumery in extrait form but none have made me fall in love instantly as Ode.
The well balanced jasmine and rose are not overpowered or overpowering as the iris and sandalwood cut the vibration of the musk to a long sensual hum.
14th August, 2014
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Philtre d'Amour by Guerlain

Vintage Philtre D'Amour opened with a strong verbena and lemon notes and a faint bergamot note. I'm here to tell you the opening would burn the fuzz right off your cheeks it was that zingy! 20 minutes in I could smell the pettigrain, neroli and a faint green note of myrtle. I didn't get the Jasmine note at all. I think the citrus accord damaged my nostrils!
30 Minutes in, I am still getting the citrus accord, but the base note of patchouli is starting to come on strong and mixing nicely with the citrus accord! The sillage is still very good. However, my nose is starting to burn somewhat because of the repeated smelling of the strong citrus notes.
About an hour and a half, the citrus accord has died down somewhat, but the patchouli dry down is still going strong. The sillage has dropped off though, but the longevity is still there.
After three hours the sillage has dropped to next to nothing and the longevity is still there, but it is a skin scent by now.
I love Eau De Guerlain, but it doesn't pack the punch as vintage Philtre D' Amour and I would choose it as a spring/summer citrus/lemon scent over EDG. It also would make a nice unisex fragrance. I would highly recommend this Guerlain to anyone!
20th March, 2013 (last edited: 20th August, 2014)

Chant D'Arômes by Guerlain

Luca Turin calls this a tender floral instead of a chypre and I would have to agree after wearing it. This fabulous perfume was quoted by LT in "Perfumes: The Guide" as " The original (1962) Jean-Paul Guerlain's first fragrance after the retirement of his father, Jacques, and was a light, powdery-peachy confection strongly suggestive of a fresh start and making a clean break with the past". Unfortunately for me I did not catch a sniff of peach during the opening with so much going on. I did get a strong wiff of aldehydes, a moderate amount of Galbadnum , Gardenia and fruits. I know what Mirabelle is, but have never sniffed it ,so, I could not verify smelling it. I suddenly recognized a fragrance I am very familiar with and realize the opening reminds me of Mitsouko! Very surprising and it made it clear why I was loving Chant De Aromes because I love Mitsouko.
After 15 minutes or so, I began to get a powdery accord coming through. I could smell a slight bit of rose, a heavier amount of honeysuckle and Ylang-Ylang, hence the powdery accord.
The sillage is at it's highest at this point.
An hour into sniffing Chant De Aromes, I could smell a light note of galbadnum, a little vetiver and moss, a heavier amount of musk and helitrope. The sillage has dropped down to a skin scent by now. The total longevity on my skin is only about 3.5 hours which I would say is average because I'm not sure of the concentration of this perfume. It is a beautiful perfume that is not cloying or over done. It is a perfect example of what some of the earlier Guerlains can be, which is magnificent! It is not found at all Guerlain counters, usually the boutiques and higher end stores may carry it and if you get a chance to try it, do so!
18th March, 2013 (last edited: 25th March, 2013)

Une Ville, un Parfum : Shanghai by Guerlain

The notes are: aniseed,orange blossom,almond,cardamon,ylang-ylang, jasmine, iris, mimosa, cedarwood, patchouli, vanilla and sandalwood. I have added the notes to make a point later.
Opens with a heavy note of salty almonds and a very subtle whiff of aniseed. The aniseed is less like licorice and more like green, bitter anise. But, again it's very subtle. The usual strong licorice note is diluted by a third note raising it's head, vanilla. It's a faint smell of powdery vanilla, but not the "Gurlinade" that is the signature of the houses many fragrances. It's not too sweet to be a gouramand!
Twenty minutes in, I think I can smell some iris in the powdery, vanilla accord. I don't smell any cardamon, ylang-ylang, jasmine or mimosa. All I smell is the almonds and vanilla!and those notes are dropping by the minute
A full thirty minutes in, the perfumes's sillage has dropped drastically. I smell just a skin scent. If I pressure my nose, I might be getting a little sandalwood and the powdered vanilla dry down that remains. Guerlain calls this a full bodied perfumed, so, where is it? Look at all the notes in this fragrance back at the top and I get hardly any of those.
The bottom line is , I could not recommend this perfume because it lacks any interest. Especially at $215!
Edit: I believe I had become immune to Shanghi after sniffing it so long and it has been confirmed by a second party that the sillage is still strong and so must be the longevity which is going on 8 hours. After bringing this to my attention, I started noticing whiffs of Shanghi every now and then. It's actually quite nice in it's own way.
I still don't understand how Guerlain could claim the notes above and not be able to get a whiff of more than half of them?
18th March, 2013

Vetiver by Guerlain

After the disappointing experience with the Vol De Nuit EDC, I did not have high expectations for the Vintage Vetiver EDC.
Even though Guerlain was not the first to introduce a Vetiver Fragrance(1961), Guerlain should be the touch stone for all Vetiver fragrances.
Though vintage Vetiver EDC is mainly a linear fragrance, it does contain notes of lemon,tobacco, vetiver, nutmeg and pepper. Vetiver EDC opens with a strong blast of aldehydes or smelled more of hairspray and a light scent of lemon.
After about 10 minutes in, I start to get the vetiver coming forward with the lemon and a faint smell of tobacco. 30 minutes since applying the vetiver is coming on strong with the faint smell of lemon. I never get a smell of nutmeg or pepper. Now is when the sillage is at it's highest, though Vintage Vetiver EDC is not a sillage monster. One hour in, the frag has become a skin scent, but the vetiver is still hanging in there. After about 2.5 hours, the EDC's longevity has given up and is gone.
The vintage Vetiver EDC has been a lot more of a pleasure to wear. Perhaps a little because I like the scent of vetiver, but unlike the Vol De Nuit EDC, the wearing pleasure lasted a lot longer. If you have normal skin and can wear EDC's, this would be a perfect spring and summer fragrance. Actually the coolness would seem to ruin the effect of vetiver. This could pass as a unisex frag due to it's airiness and if a lady likes vetiver obviously.
18th March, 2013

Sycomore Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Sycomore has been given great reviews by many people and I think it is a light, masculine fragrance that has no weight and not as great as I was expecting. It would be a nice fragrance for spring and summer because of it's light vetiver. However, I like my fragrance to be able to stand on their own and shout a bit, but Sycomore just lays there and hovers above the skin.
The opening is the best part of this frag with the abundant smell of Vetiver and the undertones of Pink Pepper. After about 15 minutes the pink Pepper is dying down, but the vetiver is still center stage with the scent of Juniper and Cypress making there way forward. After 30 minutes in the vetiver, cypress and juniper conspire to give of a tobacco accord even though it's not noted i the pyramid.
After an hour, I finally start to get the aroma of smoking woods, but they are faint.
The sillage is at it's best on me in the first 30 minutes. After that the sillage and longevity start to die off. It lasted at best 2 hours on me. Not very well compared to the reviews I have read.
Sycomore is a light, lovely, masculine frag for someone else, but just not for me. Unisex in every way.
18th March, 2013

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain

*Review For Vol De Nuit Parfum
It opened with Bergamot, I got a faint lemon note and Orange Blossom was prominent.The Galbadnum got lost in the other opening notes. Within fifteen minutes it had quickly moved into an Aldehyde accord for a a few minutes at best and then a burst of Iris came forward along with a faint vanilla note as if it were waiting to pounce.
After thirty minutes the iris was still wafting around and the vanilla had pounced in, but not too strong. Three other notes started to make a strong presence, the orris root, musk and sandalwood were becoming strong to my nose. The moss got lost in the strength of the other top notes or my immature nose missed it.
As more time passed and the orris root, musk. spices and sandalwood with just a hint of vanilla were the stars of the show and the sillage was still pretty high. For about 3 hours and slowly dropping off from there, the parfum remained a linear orris root, musk and sandalwood. After 3 hours the longevity and sillage had given in and Vol De Nuit Parfum was a skin scent and becoming a beautiful memory for me.
Vol De Nuit in any concentration could very well be unisex because it's not a floral monster or overly sweet and reminds me somewhat of Shalimar which I think is very sensuous on a man. Vol De Nuit Parfum is one of those fragrances that, for me, are very alluring, sexual and I would highly recommend it!
15th March, 2013 (last edited: 27th March, 2013)