Perfume Reviews

Reviews by danicaradovanov

Total Reviews: 8

Cologne Intense Collection : Saffron by Jo Malone

Great saffron note coalesces into a vanilla saffron gourmand ending on an extremely light base of vanilla sugar and warm woods. Maybe some powdery rose/ iris? in there. This one is tenacious on clothes and hair, lasting 6 or more hours but the wow factor, the saffron opening and the gourmand saffron confectionary cloud, is very short--half hour to 45 minutes at most, although whiffs return from clothes and hair and in quite an appealing way. Still appealing as a skin scent with 2-3 inches of projection. I reapplied and got a much denser cloud of this confectionary base, which retains some of the suede edge of the saffron. It's like they smelled Al Mas and tried to make an EDC version (not Intense btw). One of the more interesting Jo Malone's that I keep returning to for its uniqueness.
12th July, 2015

Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur

Its so different from the original, which was a rich red spicy rose in a bed of saffron and powdery musk with a sumptuous feel and a sillage for miles. I remember fearing to wear this to work because it was so extravagantly seductive and utterly reminiscent of the smell of the Agent Provocateur shop--embarrassing to think about around one's co-workers. This smells like a much thinner version of the original with a slightly rancid (on me) accord of coriander, saffron and rose off the top. It reminds me a little of the fruit-gone-off feel of vintage Femme PDT but not as fruity. Once that accord opens up the rose is buried in the saffron, with a greenish hint, more like a specific aromachemical of rose rather than a radiant, diverse rose generated by a high quality absolute. At this stage it is distinctive but office-ready, with a green chypre-ish feel. Not bad but not AP. I wish the rancid top-note wasn't so unattractive on my skin because its still interesting. Too bad the glory of its old days is gone, though.
29th June, 2014

Akkad by Lubin

This is a radiant oriental based on the contrast of a churchy frankincense accord with a powdery vanillic amber. Its structure reminds me of Jean Patou Sublime, although it doesn't have the floral complexity of Sublime it has excellent quality materials.

Akkad starts off with a citrus/orange and cardamom spice 'winter holiday' opening that seamlessly segues into frankincense. As the citrus notes drop off, it leaves the cardamom/ frankincense floating over a sophisticated powdery but dry vanillic amber. Then it's frankincense and finally at the end is the wonderful amber, very powdery and not too sweet to my nose. The vanilla is a dark vanilla bean, slightly dirty. Akkad smells great and it smells expensive all the way through. It has the sillage of a grand french perfume as many Lubin releases do.

While not utterly original, it's so good and so wearable. It's a fragrance that makes people lean in closer when they get near you. It's a clever and festive take on incense, a wonderful feminine in my opinion. In the playing field of the Armani ambers, Alahine, Mitzah (comparable fragrances IMHO) it's crisp, elegant, sexy, and uplifiting. It consistently delivers.
29th December, 2013
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L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy

Outstanding and to a certain extent dependent on skin type. This will either radiate or stay close. It smells better when radiant. My skin is a little oily and hates orange blossom, tonka usually, loves spearmint, lemongrass, resins, most citrus (except mandarin) and iris. This is radiant and diffusive on me, with a minty opening tempered by citrus that is an abstraction of a fresh green fig. It transforms into a heart of dry fig tempered with musk and wood that smells simply delicious. It ends in a sweet woody-musky drydown with a sugary element. In the first hour it's one of the most delicious, sweet, floral and fruity smells I've ever experienced.
21st November, 2013

Hanbury by Maria Candida Gentile

This is a very fresh floral composition that is easy to wear and has a powdery white-flower feel which is possibly the calycanthus. I think it's unobtrusive, somewhat addicting and quite restrained in its presentation. Very classy and can work for lovers of eau de cologne with its citrus top notes.
25th April, 2013

Black Jade by Lubin

This is a complex French perfume. It has a fresh top-note of galbanum and bergamot that quickly morphs into a spicy pepper and cardamom rose, and then the jasmine and incense emerge in a supporting role to the rose over a well balanced base of patchouli, tonka and amber. As the perfume evolves it can, in summer, develop and almost cumin note, probably a result of the patchouli and tonka. I like it better in winter, because the progression unfolds on me better. This fragrance develops over time, it is not linear, and is a complex and sexy modern floral oriental. It took me a while to get used to it, and initially I thought I liked but didn't love it. However I reach for this time and time again to smell the progression of notes, and it has a very sexual but simultaneously serene, powdery aura. It works for day and also for night. It's a big thumbs up.
23rd November, 2012

Mohur by Neela Vermeire

This is a gorgeous rose, saffron, and incense scent. It is happy and also peaceful, welcoming and warm and also exotic and sensual. This is a spring rose, and the sexuality is in the saffron and spices. I smell cumin and black pepper, and the saffron segues into the heart of a sweet and almost lemony rose scent. This is discreet but at the same time the sillage has a way of making itself known, esp. to the wearer. I see a connection to Paestum Rose, but less wood in the drydown and less incense. This is a beautiful fragrance and if you love rose it is definitely one to try. A fantastic addition to the floral oriental category.
27th September, 2012

Fireside Intense by Sonoma Scent Studio

This scent on my skin has the most amazing aura of sensual, dark, new leather. The first spray suggests gasoline and then rubber, the rubber of tires and also the expensive leather of a brand new car interior. It's like gasoline poured over charcoal to make a fire on the beach in Malibu, and we are driving away urgently, the tires leaving burnt rubber imprints, but I can smell the new leather seats of the fancy sports car over the faint traces of smoke as we are peeling away from the scene. We are probably going for a hike in the dark woods, need to get there as soon as possible, seduction in the air, there may not be a moon but it doesn't matter for what we have in mind. Pure potential. This is a dark scent, sexual and brooding and very seductive. It represents the dark, intimate moment after first deciding to act on animal impulse but before anything has actually occurred. It is pure potential and at the same time memory of the physical moment that sources it. It is arresting, intense, and dries down beautifully.

That said it's not for people who like to smell perfumey. But I am 42 and a mother and I can carry this off quite well. I have a lot of experience to back it up. Love it.
24th September, 2012