Perfume Reviews

Reviews by juanderer


Or du Serail by Naomi Goodsir

You know that sweet heady smell you get when you go to a public space where people are using their massive e-cigarette (or vaping, as they call it)? This smells just slightly more pleasant than that.

If you love everything gourmand, you might like it. I don't.
13th January, 2015

Sådanne by Slumberhouse

Sådanne opens tart and winey with green berries - not that this smells green, but the tartness of the berries brings to mind not-quite-ripe fruit. Shortly after the initial smell, a waxiness comes through that intermittently suggests an iris-like makeup note before settling into a rose that smells much like the color of the fragrance in the bottle suggests.

There is an animalic tinge to it; one that you initially have to look for it to really notice with what's going on at the top with the more effervescent components. The transition to the heart presents a fermented fruits vibe that goes more in line with the wine feel which together with the effervescence of the composition brings Prosecco to mind. There is also a mild coniferous resins presence that suggests a woody accord of pine, cedar, and juniper.

There is a definite musky skank in the background with an ambergris sweetness to it as the composition progresses into the dry-down. The later facet of this stage (approximately 7 hours after applicaiton) is dominated by a waxy rose
over the ambergris base.

This Slumberhouse offering is one dynamic affair. Especially considering how 'light' it is compared to the latest examples from the house.

Sådanne tilts more towards feminine than Slumberhouse's offerings of late, but is still within the unisex realm. If you are a fan of quirky roses and Belgian raspberry lambics, you will thoroughly enjoy this.
28th August, 2014

Tango by Masque

The opening of Tango is a curry-like mix of cumin, cinnamon, and cardamom. Don't be scared by this as there is a presence of amber that comes forth to balance everything and give an almost chewing gum-like vibe to the fragrance. If there is amber bubble gum, this is what it would taste like.

There is a subtle presence of sandalwood shortly after the opening and things start becoming more ambivalent. There is a male-female, yin-yang quality to the composition that is not competitive or muddy, but balanced and cooperative. It's a skin on skin and cedar and rose ensemble that could well be something that one would experience while dancing the third straight tanda at a milonga in the middle of the night.
05th July, 2014
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Dark Saphir by Agonist

Dark Saphir opens with a boozy violet that quickly transitions into the all too familiar rose-patchouly-oud scent profile. The protagonist is the rose, however, but there is a myriad of notes present to support it. I particularly detect peach and raspberry, which make the rose come alive and not jammy. My favorite phase of the composition was the base when the ylang and labdanum become more apparent.

This fragrance is somewhat reminiscent of Malle's Portrait of a Lady; and although the quality is good, it feels quite distant from POAL.

Is it good? Yes. Is it original? No.
05th July, 2014

Baque by Slumberhouse

My first impression of Baque was that it's somewhere between Sova and Rume. It has that honeyed tobaccoconutty feel of Sova with the thicker molasses-like dry fruit sweetness of Rume.

There is a very distinct vanilla bean and ambergris tandem that becomes prominent as the fragrance dries down. I sense an almost roasted effect on the vanilla bean on my skin.

I would say that Baque lines up really well with the latest offerings from Slumberhouse (Vikt, Ore, and Zahd; all in their extrait versions) as it is extremely wearable yet also has the challenging non-classical-perfume-like aesthetics we find in most releases from this house.

An really good fragrance that is, sadly, no longer being produced.
20th March, 2014

Osmanthus Blossom by Jo Malone

This is a very simple composition that starts with the fresh white floweriness of petitgrain. It is by no means sweet or loud but the first impression is almost edgy before softening up nicely within the next few minutes.

As it goes into the heart notes, I appreciate the tea-like character in the fragrance- there was some of that in the beginning, but the aroma becomes more apparent a couple of hours in. As the dry-down progresses there is some a brief woodiness from the cashmere that quickly gives way to a nice citrusy apricot vibe that- again- it's not quite sweet. At this point the wood is almost imperceptible save for some greenness to balance the fruity vibe.

This would be an enjoyable fragrance for warmer weather during the daytime.
30th April, 2013

Noontide Petals by Tauer

Noontide Petals opens with a good dose of aldehydes, but these are not overwhelming- I suspect the bergamot and geranium notes for toning them down.

The middle is dominated by the ylang and tuberose with a subtle rose presence. Vanilla and Iris start to show up to foreshadow the drydown.

Besides the vanilla and iris mentioned above, the dry down also presents just enough sandalwood to ground the fragrance and there is very little patchouli and vetiver to add some greenness.

This is a very delicate, almost powdery, scent that wants to transport me a few decades past to a "classic" era- whatever that means. The earlier stages of it tend to lean to the feminine spectrum, but the finish dries down to more neutral ground.
19th April, 2013

Aventus by Creed

My first review and why I'm doing it on Aventus:

It was one of the first names I noticed when I joined Basenotes. As seemingly every other thread has at least one mention of this juice, I grew intrigued.
Some people love it, some hate it, few seem to be in the middle. I never thought it would live up to the hype, so I kept my expectations low. I thought it would at least be in the realm of a really good designer frag since the "mass appeal" nature of it gives it that tilt.

I smelled it on paper a couple of months ago and didn't think much of it. I also smelled a few other Creed fragrances and was impressed at first sniff by Bois du Portugal, and fell in love (but would still like to sample before buying) with Virgin Island Water. Last night, I was surprised (I'd forgotten that I had requested it) by a carded sample vial in the mail from basenotes member Kron, and that compelled me to wear this today and share my opinions on it.

On to this novice's review:

The opening was not at all what I expected, I would have loved the pineapple to be more in the piña colada level of Virgin Island Water's, but this one was a "watered-down" pineapple. The combination of this with the bergamot gave me the impression of a glass with pineapple juice and a tad of lemon juice, except that whoever was drinking it, added too much ice, left the glass behind as he went to check on his friends outside. Once he came back to the juice, he found that the ice had melted and watered down the drink. So now he's drinking this cocktail, and the lingering smell of the barbecue in the back yard (where his friends are... on second thought, this must also be where that faint spiciness in the opening came from ) is present as well. We see remnants of pineapple slices on the grill "aha!" The combination of smells is pleasant- even comfortable- but it is not exactly remarkable nor has it a strong presence.

I suppose the rest of the review will also be told in story form:

Our good pineapple-juice-drinking friend goes back out, glass in hand, and we notice the smoke a little more. We also notice flower beds in the distance, far in the background. We can barely make out the roses and what are those, jasmines?

As the night dies down, our friend takes advantage of the last bit of fire on the grill and suggests that we roast vanilla marshmallows in it, but we're too tired, so we decide against it after he's brought the sweets out and we get another not-so-present scent in the form of the vanilla that is overpowered by the increasingly present smoke.

Despite lowering my expectations, I still found Aventus to not be amazing. It is pleasant, yes, but I feel like its opening belongs in the room freshener realm-perhaps that is why it is original. After those few minutes, it becomes a nice scent to wear outdoors in a social setting because there is nothing offensive about it. It is 100% safe though the smokiness gives it an almost calculated edge. Projection and longevity are in the good-to-great range. I will refrain from trying to qualify this scent numerically as it is not the type of scent that I favor. It has grown on me with wears (I've edited this review since the server issues the site's been experiencing have allowed me to do so before publication), but I am not ready to go out and buy it just yet. I was on the fence on whether to rate as neutral or thumbs up. Mr. Aventus has persuaded me to be favorable.

I am glad I tried it.

23rd January, 2013 (last edited: 24th April, 2013)