Bracingly fresh opening, a combination of citrus and herbs with a mildly soapy edge. The vetiver stays constant from heart to drydown, but is never overly dry or burnt.
Effortlessly fresh and masculine and without any boring stereotypical screechy laundry or aquatic notes.
I can see why this one has stuck around.
This is a fantastic post-modern fragrance in my eyes: bold floral, a tinge of contemporary fruit, faux luxury bottle with a wink towards complete plasticity, and a price point that allows the quality to be a pleasant surprise.
Juicy Couture opens with a sparkling blend of tuberose mixed with a "wall of sound" of other floral and fruit notes, unabashedly synthetic, but at such a high resolution that one gets flashes of photorealism - these are bright, juicy (ha!) floral notes, clean without being soapy. It's almost like Fracas crossed with Tommy Girl.
As the scent dries down, a light musk marries with the floral melange, playing a sort of cheerful, but duskier viola melody off the skin.
Fabulously feminine in daytime use, but guys with a penchant for florals shouldn't shy away from it as a "going out" scent in the Spring or Summer.
My only quibble is that the drydown sputters into nothingness after several hours, rather than leaving any sort of woody or vanillic shadow behind -- it's as if someone unplugged the stereo and the music just stopped.
I really wanted to like this more, because when I sprayed it in Bergdorf Goodman it was after a lot of heavy perfumes and I was entranced by how light and sunny Amyris Homme was in comparison.
Trying it today, I have to say that I feel this citrus/chocolate/woody combination is a tune I've heard before...most notably in L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme...but much lighter and with the addition of an aquatic note that, while not unpleasant (and even an exciting idea!), is a little too generic and overshadows the potentially delicious mandarin/cocoa interplay.
The iris in the heart and drydown is nice and dressy-powdery, but also sadly generic, and also overpowered by the synthetic edge that lasts and lasts.
Not my thing, but not a bad scent in general.
Stephen Jones opens with a blast of aldehydes, icy violets, and the listed "meteorite" note, which does come across as heavily mineral, like super-dry, heated lava rocks. As the semi-fizzy, soapy aldehydes calm down, a confident carnation/clove note joins the voilets. The heart and drydown also has a far-off dry woodiness.
It's strange that a perfume of such freeze-dried austere overtures would be so comforting and enveloping, but it really is. It's perfect for me for daytime wear. Despite its noticable sillage, it doesn't overpower - instead, I find that it creates a polite future-world-space-floral aura around me. In that regard, I'd liken it to Mugler Cologne, but with MC's signature sweet steam note replaced with a light clove.
Feminine/Masculine? Who cares? Stephen Jones wears well regardless.
Note: This review is on the perfume oil. Commando is also available in EDT spray.
This scent is rather spare in terms of notes -- musk and tonka -- but definitely does what it says it's going to do, and does it with simplicity and intelligence. "Going commando" titillates with the unseen, but implied; Commando implies plenty, without being explicit.
The opening is a pretty feral musk, definitely on the synthetic side (which I don't use in the pejorative sense). A sharper, cleaner, soapy musk follows right behind, marrying the barnyard with the barbershop. The tonka in the base both grounds and sweetens the musks, ultimately providing wearability and a finished feel.
The perfume oil stays close to the skin and projects little. However, I do notice that I catch comforting whiffs here and there for about four hours or so.
A blast of burnt rubber, followed by a ghostly vetiver sweetened with just a pinch of vanilla and the tiniest amount of fecal musk. Becomes a nondescript wisp of musk and spice rather quickly. Interesting in theory, and smooth in execution. However, impractical in use when compared with its peers.
If you've ever wished that all the warmth and humor in Bulgari Black was syphoned from the notes of the fragrance to the fragrance's title, this is for you.
If you like that initial onslaught of burnt rubber at the top to be backed up by just as voracious (and interesting) of a heart and drydown, but like things dry and unsweetened, try "Tea" from CdG's "Series 1: Leaves" or Smell Bent's "Violet Tendencies".
I'm one of those guys who wears the original Lolita Lempicka when I want to make an impact - most likely a wintery clubbing night, where the herbal fruit floral cuts through the air like a very pleasant machete. Because of this, I was a little worried that the Au Masculin would be a similar bombastic experience, but with a bunch of out-of-place oakmoss shoved in for weight and seriousness.
Thank goodness this wasn't the case! This is definitely a more masculine take on the LL franchise, and would even be suitable for a day in the office, but it thankfully retains all of the whimsy that makes this line special.
Compared to the original fragrance, Au Masculin is the slightly more responsible, yet just as poetic older brother to the iconic apple-bottled scent. This fragrance is a lighter, more airy take on a similar woody and herbal theme - sweet and dry at just the right places.
Au Masculin opens with a cool blast of anise overtop a slightly sweet vegetal aura, the drier, woody base faintly in the distance, but still grounding the work with its presence. As the fragrance develops over the next hour or two, it takes on a more sweet, foody tone - like fresh baked cookies or freshly made candy, but with the sweetness tuned down just enough to make the violets legible -- almost like a sepia-toned photograph of licorice flavored items on a silvery filigreed plate.
As the scent dries down, it becomes rather dry and sexy, effortlessly masculine. The magical thing is that it always retains that initial sparkle of bright anise, even as it smoothes and fades into the background, it is still present.
Overall, this is an entirely bewitching and enchanting scent, good for day wear or on a night when you're almost sure someone will be nestling their head near your chest...be waiting for a contented sigh either way.
Violet, definitely, but mostly leather. The initial opening has a sharp, exciting synthetic leather feel, with an effusion of violets and a background of wood, but eventually becomes a more natural marriage of violet and leather. The drydown keeps the fragrance mostly linear, but brings out a more mellow, but never too sweet, woodiness.
Overall this is an aggressive, but immensely wearable rubbery leather - not as sweet as, say, Bulgari Black, but not as harsh as some of the top notes found in the more synthetic of CdG's offerings. Very much at home in winter, but the violet helps make this a year-round scent for the more daring.
An immediate pop of fresh cannabis fills the air with the opening, as if you've just stuck your nose into a bag of pot. The intense opening quickly transitions to a general vegetal aura, similar to mown grass or a shot of wheatgrass, with a medium powdery bassnote. After the drydown, all that is left is a light bit of powder (teetering just on the best side of matronly) and with just the most minor amount of musk.
This scent is definitely a very basic one, but it's nice when I want something simple and subversive. I've been told that the lingering remnants of the powdery finish were "comforting" by others. However, it lacks a certain "magic" that allows for constant wear.