Reviews by dlane1953

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    dlane1953
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    Must de Cartier by Cartier

    I've owned both the vintage and the current formulation, and I can't recommend the newer version. The vintage opens soft and velvety and continues to deepen as it evolves. The reformulation is sharp, citrusy, and then settles into something that resembles the vintage notes. Overall, the newer one lacks depth. Go vintage!

    A complex fragrance, so smoothly blended that I can't pick out individual notes. The woodiness is balanced by the florals, and the earthy base keeps it warm, subtle, and sensuous. Great sillage and longevity (over 12 hours)

    04 December, 2013

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    Vétiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

    Lush, unique take on vetiver

    One of the most realistic and powerful vetivers I've sampled. This strikes me as more masculine than unisex, but suitable for women, too, if it works with your chemistry.

    I'm surprised to see how many notes this fragrance contains, because on my skin it was much less complex. It opened up as a green, damp vetiver and over the hours grew woodier and drier with good doses of sandalwood and cedar standing out prominently. I'm sure this would be heavenly on a man. Sillage is average and longevity over 12 hours. Two thumbs up. The cost is high, the only downside of this wonderful fragrance.

    Pros: "The real deal"
    Cons: None"

    28 October, 2013

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    Rouge Hermès by Hermès

    Spicy rose oriental

    fine spicy rose oriental

    I've been sampling many rose fragrances lately, searching for the Holy Grail of rose scents. This looked like a "must-try" because it contains many of the notes I love (amber, cedar, spices) as well as the predominant rose note I wanted.

    The rose is sultry and dark; the iris and ylang ylang add dimension to the opening notes. Even at this early stage, I can detect the incense notes.

    After a while, the woody notes of sandalwood and cedar appear, with the resinous and rich note of amber adding depth. Heavenly! The dark rose accord and incense notes continue.

    The drydown is an interesting combination of the sharp greeness of labdanum and the earthy spiciness of myrrh..

    The sillage and longevity are decent although not extraordinary. On warm, humid days, the longevity is good, 7-8 hours, but in different temps this fragrance seems to fade out quickly.

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    Pros: Warm, spicy rose
    Cons: Longevity could be better"

    21st October, 2013

    rating


    Fleurs des Comores by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

    Lush, rich white floral

    I really loved the opening notes--the black current and green notes made it seem fresh and slightly sour at first--then the jam-like sweetness of the passionfruit stepped in. A bit heavy on the fruit for my taste.

    The floral notes (jasmine--big time jasmine!; ylang ylang, and orange flower) came and stayed for a long, long time. A very pretty combination of white florals but too much jasmine for my taste. I'm still learning to appreciate big white florals like this (my exposure has been limited). Loved the orange-oil note of the orange flower in the heart. Whatever vanilla is in there was overpowered by the florals so I never noticed it at all.

    The drydown (vetiver, musk,amber) is very fine, very lush. Sillage is very big, longevity excellent. 10+ hours, probably lasts all night long as well.

    This is quite a heavy fragrance so could overpower in warm weather I think. A good night time scent, too strong for most work situations.

    Pros: Massive sillage and longevity, rich florals
    Cons: None"

    19 October, 2013

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    Black Violet by Tom Ford

    Massive x2

    My first sampling of a Tom Ford fragrance, and although I'm intrigued, I'm not in love.

    The idea of taking the fresh, shy violet and turning it into a heavy-hitting, dark, moody fragrance is audacious. In theory, it sounds impossible but somehow this fragrance pulls it off. The sweetness of violet is tempered, even overwhelmed, by the woody base. As for the success of this combination--well, I'm not convinced. Novelty is not the same thing as masterpiece. Do I like it? Yes, but I would not consider this as a future purchase. A sample is enough.

    Sillage is massive, longevity is big as well. A sample could last for years. Good unisex fragrance. You need a big personality to carry this one well.

    Pros: Strong sillage and longevity
    Cons: Overwhelming for some noses"

    19 October, 2013

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    Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

    Elegant and complex amber

    This is an entirely unique take on ambergris which makes me a little giddy with pleasure. Dry, smoky, earthy, and slightly spicy, with a soft leathery drydown that is bathed in incense. I've never sampled any other like it. The boozy note that smacks you in the face within the first few minutes never totally dissipates on my skin, it clings, but lightly, for hours. Vodka and champagne isn't what comes to my mind; I'd say it's more like a rich white wine or sherry. I've never found a leather scent that works with my skin chemistry to date--until this. The leather is not overwhelmingly strong, it's a soft, buttery leather that is easy to wear and very elegant.

    Sillage is strong, longevity excellent, over 9 hours. Two thumbs up.

    Pros: Resinous, smoky, dry
    Cons: Some may dislike the boozy topnotes "

    19 October, 2013

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    Beyond Love by By Kilian

    Big white tuberose "statement" fragrance

    Those who love strong white florals should like this one, but I'm getting lost in all those flowery notes. This one opens darkly and keeps that moody tone going throughout, so it's not a casual or "easy" fragrance. The notes listed come out all at once, not in layers, so your nose is hit with amber, jasmine, coconut, tuberrose and musk. Sensory overload! The coconut note annoyed me--unless I'm eating it in cake form, I'd rather avoid it outright.

    Huge sillage and longevity; 10 hours now and no sign of stopping. I think I need a shower.

    Could be a good unisex if you have the right body chemistry but may be too much for most men. Very much a "look at me" sort of fragrance that wears the person on its lapel.

    Pros: Unapologetic, potent, great longevity
    Cons: Can overpower the nose"

    14 October, 2013

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    Loretta by Tableau de Parfums

    A sunning floral

    Here's a great example of how a skillful perfumer can take notes that I dislike and make them into something lovely and wearable. How'd you DO that? Proportion is everything. in perfumery.

    This is (more or less) an oriental based on the notes I dread, jasmine and tuberrose. This combination should drive me to the bathroom for a good scrub, especially after all the white florals I've sampled over the past week or so, but this is beautiful.

    The opening is fruity, spicy, and strong. I can't identify the type of fruit, but it's very ripe and sweet. The heart notes (jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, and rose) were not cloyingly sweet, maybe that's what made it so pleasant to me. I enjoyed the unfolding of all the florals, no one flower took centerstage but each played their part in a graceful way. The basenotes (leather, vetiver, vanilla, and patchouli) were really divine. The base is dry, which I think must help to make this such an easy wear for me. Sillage is big, I"ll report back later on longevity. It feels like one that will last for 12 hours.

    I learned later, after some research, that this pefume house is a joint venture between Andy Tauer and an Indie film maker. I've never sampled Tauer before, so this was a great opportunity for me. Now I'm interested in trying others one day.

    Pros: Rich, complex. long lasting
    Cons: None"

    11th October, 2013

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    No. 22 by Chanel

    Serious perfume

    This is a review of the vintage EDT formula.

    A gracious Parfumo friend sent me a sample, and since I haven't worn this in over 25 years, I was eager to give it a test run. The Chanel aldehyde blast was big, but what most struck me was how how quickly a smokey incense note took over the opening stages. I also detected a slight soapiness for a short time, and then it dissipated. I swear I couldn't detect the floral notes for at least an hour, and I don't know whether it's due to the age of the sample or my overworked nose. Then rich florals kicked in and I fell in love with this scent all over again. The florals are rich, deep, and not overly sweet. The incensy note stayed on throughout. The vanilla in the drydown is especially rich. Massive sillage for the very light application I applied. Lasted for about 8 hours. I'm curious to know how the modern reformulation stacks up to this. Another one to try.

    Pros: Rich, lush, very "Coco"
    Cons: Heavy on the aldehydes, but if this is what you love, go for it."

    11th October, 2013

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    L'Eau Ambrée by Prada

    Soft, feminine

    A very lovely, low sillage fragrance that whispers rather than shouts. It's a subtle fragrance, not highly resinous, rather polite and discrete. Strikes my nose as more of an oriental, to be honest. The opening was slightly zingy with lemon, but not overly strong nor longlasting. The rose and patchouli accord in the heart was very pronounced. The rose reminds me of old-fashioned English roses I grew in a former garden some years ago. For that reason alone, I'm inclined to like this scent a lot. If you're used to really strong, ambery fragrances, this probably won't satisfy you, but if you like a delicate touch, it's a pretty choice. I think I need a bottle of this.
    Longevity is 8+ hours and still going strong.

    Pros: Delicate
    Cons: Not for those who crave huge doses of amber"

    10th October, 2013

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    Blu by Bulgari

    Fresh, light and perfect for warm weather

    This frag is a wonderful find! Although I have issues with the bottle design (unless you have the hand span of a giant, you'll find this one hard to handle) I'm quite in love with this fragrance. I'd hoped for a sharper, more gingery opening, based on the notes, but it was adequate--certainly pleasing but less assertive than I'd imagined. I was so enamored that I quicky spritzed both myself and my husband (thinking this would fall into the unisex category)but over time I felt that it fell into the sweeter, more feminine category. He agrees.

    Since I don't know the fragrance of wisteria, flax, and acacia, I can't disect the notes. The overall impression, once past the fairly pungent opening, however, is that this falls into the sweet category....with wafting notes of sandelwood, a lot of musk, and a fair amount of vanilla coming into play over time. Over time, the sweetness level dropped off and the musky-vanilla-citrusy notes took over. A great choice for musk lovers who're looking for a lighter, warm weather fragrance. The more I wear it, the more enamored I become.

    Sillage very good, longevity about 7-8 hours. A great warm-weather fragrance; heat brings out its best.

    Pros: Pleasing florals, musky base
    Cons: None"

    10th October, 2013

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    Rose Barbare by Guerlain

    Elegant, sensual rose

    The finer the perfume, the more reluctant I am to write a review. All the previous reviews cover every base---and the beauty of this fragrance leaves me wondering how to come up with anything new and useful for readers that's not already spelled out so eloquently already. But I'll try anyway.

    The aldehydes are gentle, and the rose in the opening notes is a delicate pink rose, subtle and feminine. But as the heart opens, the rose becomes deeper and more full-bodied and truly sensual. The base, patchouli and woody notes, add a bit of earthiness while the honey and peach helps to soften these notes in a tender way.The strong rose note runs throughout the life of the fragrance, it's really the star of the show in every way. Sillage is good but not huge, longevity is 8+ hours. (I use sparingly because I want this sample to last!)

    Refined, elegant, sensual, and unforgettable. Perfumery at its best.

    Pros: Complex, refined rose fragrance
    Cons: None"

    10th October, 2013

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    Infusion d'Iris by Prada

    Powdered soap, anyone?

    I'm underwhelmed. I don't know what I expected from this fragrance (note: my "baseline" for iris frags is Acqua di Parma's Iris Nobile) but I felt cheated somehow. The soapy opening was inauspicious and although the heart notes added a bit of heft and pleasure, it's not enough to convince me to buy. Sillage low and longevity poor. Pretty fragrance for some, but doesn't appeal to me at all. So delicate that it's almost invisible to my nose.

    Pros: Inoffensive
    Cons: Soapy, poor sillage and poor longevity"

    10th October, 2013

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    Leather by Demeter Fragrance Library

    Vinyl-like fragrance

    A test-run on my husband is the basis for this review; since he has a diminished sense of smell, he can't write a concise review for this himself so I will step in for him.

    The opening notes smell like plastic to my nose. Harsh,synthetic, and unpleasant. After roughly an hour, I can detect a truly leathery note, but it's so linear and flat that I find no pleasure in it at all. A watery leather, not rich and full as I'd hoped.

    Sillage is low, and longevity is also poor. A dud.

    Pros: None
    Cons: Chemical odor, harsh"

    07 October, 2013

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    Rumba by Ted Lapidus

    Over the top perfumery at its best

    Oh my, this is potent juice.


    A dark, woody incense-like fragrance with so much going on that my nose is getting numb from trying to decipher it all. The opening fruity notes (plum and peach) are quickly followed by a leathery, smoky quality that envelops the white florals completely. I also pick up on a beeswax note, rather than honey. The plum and peach notes--more plum than peach, to my nose--continue throughout the life of the perfume. The base notes (woods, resins, musk, oakmoss patchouli et al) keep the fragrance deep and very sultry. A perfume of mystery, I think.

    The deeply resinous, mossy, animalic quality makes this a stand-out fragrance for special occasions. I don't feel I could wear this for informal occasions, it's just too big and demanding. Sillage is huge, longevity over 12 hours.

    Pros: Complex, great sillage and longevity, a knockout
    Cons: Powerful sillage, use lightly."

    04 October, 2013

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    Elixir by Penhaligon's

    Subtle sensuality

    What a lovely line-up of exotic Eastern notes. A beautiful fragrance; warm, spicy, woody incense, sheer and subtle. My first few wearings left me feeling slightly disappointed, I hadn't read many reviews before I sampled, and I thought the fragrance was too soft and light. But with each wearing, I grew more impressed with the quality of the ingredients and the diaphanous nature of the fragrance. I bought a full bottle. Just beautiful.

    Sillage is on the low side, longevity over 9 hours.

    Pros: Warm, spicy
    Cons: Low sillage"

    04 October, 2013

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    1881 pour Femme Blanc by Cerruti

    Lovely warm weather fragrance

    I love the opening of aldehydes and grapefruit (I didn't find any pear). Very crisp, sharp, and refreshing. The crispness quickly disappeared to make way for the white floral notes in the heart, and within a few hours the fragrance had developed into a powdery floral with just a touch of grapefruity tartness remaining . Gardenia and freesia are dominant. Musk and vanilla is ever-so-lightly used in the base, making this a great hot-weather fragrance that's not too heavy.

    Overall, an excellent choice for those who love soft white florals. The effect is one of sheer softness and light. Warm weather really makes this bloom on the skin.


    Sillage is good, longevity about 7 hours on me.

    Pros: Soft, sheer
    Cons: None"

    04 October, 2013

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    Arpège by Lanvin

    Feminine, sexy, classic


    „An elegant, beautifully balanced classic "

    Over the years, I've read many reviews that suggest a close similarity between Arpege and Chanel #5 so I've assiduously steered clear of this fragrance. The famous Chanel has never shown its beauty to me; in fact I dislike it intensely. So why would I want to try it's "twin"? A silly prejudice on my part, for these two are not alike in any way except for their categorization as floral aldehydes. I've tested; I've bought the bottle. And I've been won over by this timeless beauty.

    My review is of the current EDP formulation.

    Aldehydes were fairly mild to my nose; I had expected something along the lines of Herme's Caleche. The sweetness of honeysuckle and luscious, juicy peach stood out most vividly. The heart notes were so beautifully blended that no one floral stood out on its own, all were interwoven in a seamless way. A slight powdery note came into play during the unfurling of the notes, the orris root I guess, but it was pleasant, never over-the-top. The drydown is so lovely; heavy on vetiver, musk, and sandalwood on my skin. A resinous drydown that is balanced and long-lasting. The entire fragrance is beautifully balanced to my nose. Sillage very good, longevity 9+ hours. I'm so glad I decided to give Arpege a try. (Thanks, Coutureguru for your dazzling review!) I know this will become a staple in my wardrobe. Suitable day or night, in my book. Perfect.


    Pros: Balanced, complex
    Cons: None"

    04 October, 2013

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    Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer

    Luscious fruity-floral

    This is unlike any of the other Tauers I've sampled; much more linear and simplistic, and definately "girly-girl". The opening notes that hit my nose were out and out raspberries; pure, unadulterated raspberries. Lovely, ripe, and luscious raspberries, but I wonder, where have the roses and violets gone? I think this is a sophisticated version of the current fragrance craze, the fruity-floral. I would rather wear Andy's version than any of the others I've read about, it's true, but I had hoped for some luscious rose accords as well. They are not playing out on my skin in a tangible way. The basenotes also seem to be missing in action. Far too delicate and too sweet for my taste.

    I would recommend a trial run, ladies. Sillage is moderate, longevity is excellent, over 10 hours on me.

    Note: I've learned that Tauer frags are capricious, so I like to test some of the more challenging frags 3 times before concluding there's no hope that it would work for me. I'll give this another try in a few days and update.

    A second wearing results in a definite "like" but not "love" vote from me. The rose and the sandalwood notes were more noticable on this wearing, but were not vivid enough to make this a bottle-worthy purchase.

    Pros: Rich, opulent
    Cons: May be too sweet for some tastes"

    04 October, 2013

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    Une Rose Chyprée by Tauer

    Dark, rich, and warm

    The first time I wore this, I seemed to pick out a huge amount of cinnamon, which distracted me from the rose notes. So I set the sample aside for a few days and today I'm trying it again.

    Excellent, warm, spicy opening with touches of citrus. Compelling. The heart notes unfolded rather quickly--almost alongside the head notes--and the rose is lovely and dark, very sensual. Any rose lover would swoon over these rose notes. The basenotes, a heady, resinous mixture of labdanum, oak moss, patchouli and vetiver, are rich and warm. I would call this a 2-stage development, not 3, because the opening and heart notes intermingle so quickly. This fragrance is warm and inviting (but also possesses a touch of "darkness" that makes it more interesting, like a slightly dangerous femme fatale) and is unlike any other rose fragrances I own. Sillage very good, longevity over 10 hours.

    What a perfume; here is another one for my wish list. I think any chypre lover would adore this.

    UPDATE: After several more wearings, I have to add that the cinnamon note IS strong, and if that note is a problem for you, better sample before purchase.

    Pros: Spicy rose, great longevity
    Cons: Cinnamon note might be too strong for some body chemistries"

    04 October, 2013

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    Vetiver Dance by Tauer

    Fresh and light

    My first sampling, but it's clear to me that this is another Tauer that must be sampled several times to come to an understanding of what it's about.

    My first impression: two thumbs up. I love the crisp, fresh opening, warmed up by the peppery note. But the heart notes (rose, vetiver, and LOV) turned this fragrance in a completely different direction. Suddenly I'm in a whole different realm--what stands out is the exquisite LOV accords, not the vetiver. At this time, I feel it definately leans toward the feminine, not masculine. As the basenotes begin to play out, the fragrance moves back into unisex territory. Complicated fragrances require some time to master.....

    Hmmm. I'll report back later. Another Tauer shape-shifter.

    A second wearing has convinced me that the vetiver is lightly used; my skin seems to amplify the florals. Sampling is highly recommmended. It's a beautiful composition and a great choice for daytime; very fresh and light. If you like your vetiver straight-up and strong, you won't care for this one. But if you love the floral notes listed in the heart, lightly enrobed in a veil of vetiver, wood, and fresh labdanum, you'll adore this. Longevity is over 10 hours, sillage very good.

    Pros: Crisp and soft in different stages, very changable on my skin.
    Cons: Sample first, somewhat unpredictable"

    26 September, 2013

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    Roma by Laura Biagiotti

    Sophisticated and sexy oriental


    The opening has the sharpness of black current and bergamot, and the addition of the mint adds what seems like a pine note when all combined together. Very appealing and fresh without being too sharp.

    The floral heartnotes are quite sweet, definately throwing this into the "oriental" category, as others have noted. Rose and jasmine are most prominent. I expected more of a chypre style of fragrance from the notes lineup.

    The basenotes contain a load of resinous and animalic notes, yet they play out rather subtly on me. I suppose it's because of the EDT formulation. I enjoy the drydown for its musky resinous quality. The longevity is fair, going on 8 hours now, and sillage is good. I applied lightly, dabbing with a cotton ball, but if your spray I imagine it really stands out.

    A definate two thumbs up for this fragrance--easier to wear than Rumba, lovely blended notes,and a sexy vibe that's very appealing. I think it's a great 3-season fragrance; you might want to avoid wearing in the heat of summer.

    Pros: Complex, resinous, smooth
    Cons: None"

    24 September, 2013

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    Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon's

    Refined, elgegant

    I have to say at the outset that I own a sensational citrus-based fragrance (vintage Eau de Guerlain) so every other similar scent that I try is measured (maybe unconsciously some of the time) against that high standard. Be aware of some innate prejudice on my part now and again!

    B.B. strikes my nose as a good, classic, if somewhat simplistic fragrance. A discrete and tasteful combination but to my nose it's not a stand-out. I respect the fact that this fragrance has been in production since 1902; it's certainly a classic worth trying.

    The opening is quite tart and sharp; after about 20-30 minutes some lavender appears and this softens the fragrance into a more feminine mode. There is a decided pepper note that appears quite early in the development as well. The drydown is very musky on me, with wafting notes of pine appearing now and again, taking it back into a more masculine scent. I like this phase but have to say that many women would find it too musky.

    Sillage is low after the first 2 hours, and longevity is about 6 hours on me. If you have the opportunity, give it a try. Certainly a classic for its type.

    Pros: Balanced, classic
    Cons: Longevity could be better"

    23 September, 2013

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    Bulgari pour Femme by Bulgari

    Soft, feminine fragrance

    The EDP is a really lovely choice for day or night wear. It reminds me a bit of another fine fragrance, Arpege, but not due to similarities in notes; simply for its innate wearability suitable for so many different occasions. It's discrete, elegant, and very feminine. Both Arpege and Bulgari pour Femme have that soft mallability that make both so easy to wear, anytime and anywhere.

    Violet and rose are predominant, with a hint of jasmine coming to the forefront now and then. A soft, clean, musky base and a touch of sandalwood creates a very refined finish. B. pour femme makes me think of a classic white silk blouse, infinitely adaptable and a great staple for your wardrobe.

    Sillage is moderate, longevity less than stellar, fading gently away after about 5-6 hours. Still a very worthy addition to my fragrance wardrobe; it's low sillage is an asset in many situations. A great choice for those "oh, what should I wear" occasions when you want to shine but not overwhelm with your fragrance. A charming, romantic choice that will not disappoint.

    Pros: Well balanced, refined
    Cons: Longevity could be better"

    23 September, 2013

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    L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

    Outstanding

    I can't add anything new to the wonderful reviews already here, but I can say that this is an easy fragrance to wear, anytime and anywhere. Wonderfully complex and evocative. I once sampled SL Amber Sultan and was mightily disappointed---I think THIS is what I had been looking for without even knowing I was searching for it. Where SL seemed distant and unlovable, this Tauer fragrance is inviting and warm, even comforting. I would count this as a staple in my wardrobe. (Since Tauer scents seem to react unpredictably on different body chemistries, it's a good idea to sample first.)

    The opening is spicy, dry, and a bit sharp (the lavender). After 15 minutes or so, a bit of floral sweetness begins to appear, but lightly done (jasmine and geranium)surrounded by resinous greenness. The drydown is woody and resinous and very beautiful. That sweet accord stays with me all the way through the wearing. Now, six hours in, and it's still there.

    Very long lasting (10-12 hours) and moderate sillage when applied lightly.
    What a treat!

    Pros: Spicy, dry, but warm; sweetens slightly in dry down; good unisex fragrance
    Cons: None"

    22 September, 2013

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    Cabochard by Grès

    Mossy,woody, and very leathery

    Dark, woody, leathery, mossy: like a walk through the dark forest

    I've wanted to sample this for years. Leathery, musky, dark fragrances appeal to my sense of uniqueness--at least on an intellectual level. Anything that falls outside the sweet/fruity/girly category that's been in the vanguard of feminine perfumery for so many years was bound to grab my attention. And now I've been gifted with a vintage sample of this fragrance. I'm so impressed.

    I have no idea of the age of this sample, but it's dark, bitter, and herby. At first I was overwhelmed by the leathery notes that leapt to the forefront so quickly. I sensed no florals at all--leather, top front and center for several hours, then a slow softening of the notes to a gorgeous, woody, mossy drydown. Is it the age of the sample or the year it was produced? I wish I knew; this is so unique that I wonder if I'd be disappointed if I purchased a recent formulation. I'd always believed I'd love leathery scents, but now I wonder if it's less the leather than the woodiness that's often used in the basenotes of many leather-based scents. For me, the basenotes are the highlight of the fragrance. Rich and dark and moody--not an easy fragrance to wear but trust me, you will be remembered! Sillage is powerful, longevity is beyond the norm---a light dabbing is going on 8 hours now and still very strong. Update: the next morning I could still catch whiffs of this powerful fragrance.

    Vintage is recommended since I can't speak for newer versions. Not a fragrance for everyone--you need a strong dose of chutzpah to carry this! A great unisex fragrance, probably most suitable for evenings--but then again, if you love it and possess the requisite personality, anytime is a good time to wear Cabochard.

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    Pros: Strong character, long lasting, unique
    Cons: May be too leathery and bitter for some tastes."

    22 September, 2013

    rating


    Cristobal by Balenciaga

    Floriental

    I wish I could whip up some enthusiasm for this fragrance so I could post an inspired review; unfortunately I'm afraid Cristobal EDT doesn't inspire. A very pleasant floriental, but too sweet for my taste. I pick out an overabundance of vanilla within an hour of application, so if you like sweets and vanilla this might be a winner for you. Sillage is very good, longevity average.
    A nice day or night fragrance but again I don't find it a standout.

    Now talk to me about their vintage fragrances; Le Dix, Cialenga, Rumba, Prelude, Quadrille; these are eminently praise-worthy! So sad to see a great fragrance house become so average.

    Pros: Pleasant floral/vanilla
    Cons: Not a "standout" fragrance"

    22 September, 2013

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    Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood

    Sweet floriental

    My first testing of Boudoir and I'm waiting for the "skank" factor to set in! Well, where are you?

    This came to me as a sample so I don't know it's age, but it is the pink liquid, probably a current formulation. Three hours in and I'm still waiting to be bowled over. The opening is sweet and super-feminine. An inauspicious start for me, since I dislike most sweet perfumes and carnations in particular. Only now am I beginning to get a whiff of something more earthy; some coriander, patchouli and sandalwood coming to the fore, and a touch of tobacco. Still, the promising basenotes are not fine enough to overcome my initial impression of too much spicy carnation and other sweet florals and too little "heft"in the base. I suppose the problem is that I like spices,and a lot of them, and muskiness, and this has too little of one and none of the other,so it doesn't fit my personal interpretation of a sexy perfume. "Shocking" and "Bal A Versailles" are sexier, more earthy interpretations of this genre in my opinion.

    Sillage is strong, longevity--well, so far it's good but I'll never really know since I've srubbed it off after 3 hours.

    Pros: Good sillage
    Cons: Too sweet"

    22 September, 2013

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    Dolce Vita by Christian Dior

    Floriental with gourmand flourishes

    I received a generous sample of D.V. (current forumlation) and though I didn't adore it in all stages of develoment, I think it's a very pleasing floral oriental that would appeal to a broad spectrum of fragrance lovers.

    The opening was sweet and soft, with a touch of citrus that's not listed in the notes. Lily of valley, rose, and magnolia are the stated notes, but to my nose they blended together in a pleasant harmony. Creamy and very feminine.

    The heart notes came to the fore rather quickly. I kept catching whiffs of ripe honeydew melon, although the fruits are peach and apricot according to the notes. A very sweet heart that lasted for a very long time. The sweet florals and the fruity notes began to remind me of exotic cocktails and flower leis on a beach somewhere in Hawaii, so if these types of notes appeal to you, this fragrance will delight you. A tad on the sweet side for my tastes but lovely.

    The sandalwood/vanilla base is wonderfully rich and creamy. In fact, the fragrance reminds me of a dessert in many ways. Gourmand lovers, take note.

    Sillage is strong and longevity excellent, almost 10 hours now and still strong.

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    Pros: Floral fruity with lovely dry down
    Cons: On the sweet side"

    22 September, 2013

    rating


    Shocking by Elsa Schiaparelli

    "Da Bomb" of civit fragrances

    I've wanted to test for years; with such a notorious reputation, who could resist? I dabbed it on several hours ago, knowing that I had no plans to leave the house so would not have to worry about smelling like raw sex while walking through the grocery store or similar.

    I don't know the age of my sample, but if the amount of musk and civit in the base is any indicator, it's vintage.

    The opening was surprisingly light and soft; a bit green, a little tart. Within a few minutes, the floral notes (jasmine was most prominant to my nose) began to appear. They were lovely! Not too sweet, very smooth. I didn't notice honey but maybe the honey accord is what makes these florals so soft.

    The basenotes began to unfold very quickly on my skin. Civit and musk front and center within an hour of application. Those two notes plus sandalwood are the main players here. The floral notes are still present but are upstaged by this very deep base.

    I love it! This is old-school sexiness that still feels contemporary in its earthiness.

    Best as a special-occasion fragrance. Very strong sillage and I don't doubt that I'll still catch whiffs of this twelve hours from now, it's that potent.

    Pros: Sultry, animalic, dark
    Cons: Too intense for some noses"

    21st September, 2013

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