Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Klaaon

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Total Reviews: 50

Leather & Artemisia by Jo Malone London

Lovely green textured fragrance... leaves a beautiful cloud and always puts me in a good mood when I wear it.

Have a couple of Leather & Artemisia but how I wish Jo Malone will introduce it in 100ml and in their regular range!

06th April, 2019

1957 by Chanel

There are few scents that I consider ephemeral and 1957 is certainly one (the other I could think of is L’eau de Hiver by Frederic Malle which is texturally close but more powdery).

1957 is complex and alluring, with dichotomous notions of both warmth and coolness. There are times when I put it on and forget about it only to find myself taken aback by the bubble of it’s beautiful presence.

It a scent that others will smell it more than you would when you put it on. It bellows a tad louder for the first 5 hours then settles into skin and hangs on for a couple more hours.

Beautiful creation which I am glad I finally decided to get a full bottle of!
04th April, 2019

Hermèssence Myrrhe Églantine by Hermès

An beautiful ambery rose mostly from the grounded myrrh.

The rose in Myrrh Eglantine reminds me of that in Galop, but is more restrained.... it is midway between a full blown jammy rose and a dewy fresh rose.

This dries down to a warmer resinous myrrh base but never becomes fully oriental, but keeps in line with the house water colour style. Kudos to Christine Nagel to bringing a new expression in the Hermessence line without violating its style integrity.
06th February, 2019
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Vetiver Insolent by Miller Harris

This is a more sombre and warm expression of vetiver - I get rooty vetiver supported by dense warm resin from the elemi, amber, Tonka and cardamom.

A really good vetiver - a different take from my other favourite vetivers like Vetiver Extraordinare, Dior Vetiver and Tom Ford’s Grey vetiver, and tangentially closer to Chanel’s Sycomore or Lalique’s Encre Noir... however, Vetiver Insolent is the densest of them all.

Longevity and Sillage is good too!
20th February, 2018

Saffron by Jo Malone

Saffron is my favourite Jo Malone!

An alluring saffron solifore... supported mainly by vanilla which together creates a beautiful suede accord. It is slightly sweet but not gourmand - just classy! Moderate silage but with great longevity.

When I want a suede accord fragrance, it's either Jo Malone's Saffron or Le Labo's Santal 33.

Saffron is warmer and has a cozy effect, whereas Santal 33 is more austere and avant garde. Love them both!

Saffron is unfortunately discontinued, so I am glad I have my back-up bottles.
18th March, 2017

Hermèssence Cuir d'Ange by Hermès

I have smelled the Hermessence line many times but nothing really pulled my heart strings (or rather my purse strings) until Cuir d'ange. It took me awhile to get Cuir d'ange soft supple expression of leather with just the right depth of eccentricity and dryness. Once I did, I am hooked.

Honestly I am not a fan of usual hot favourites like Ambre Narguile and Vetiver Tonka from the Hermessenence line. To me, others right behind Cuir d'ange from this line are Poivre Samacarde and Santal Massoia!

Cuir d'ange is the first and remains the only one in the Hermessence line which I have a full bottle of (at least for now)...
09th December, 2016

Jour d'Hermès by Hermès

Review for Parfum (extrait) of Jour d'Hermes

I like Jour d'Hermes in its EDT expression which was effervescent, bright and full of spring flowers - but I found it somewhat leaning feminine because of the florals.

When I chance upon a great opportunity to purchase the Parfum (extrait) at a steal, I could not help but blind buy and it truly is divine - the citrus is fuller and more persistent in the Parfum expression and the floral notes are more grounded : the Parfum feels like a walk amidst a flowering garden with the florals and the greens, instead of the EDT which feels more like a walk around an empty room with a bouquet from this garden.

It may not have astounding silage but people around you will definitely enjoy it and it holds its own against others such as Tuscan Leather when I wore them at the same time with application to different parts of my body.
17th October, 2016 (last edited: 14th January, 2017)

Jasmin Angélique by Atelier Cologne

An interesting Jasmine like none other - to me Jasmine Angelique is as much Jasmine as it is Galbanum, which is ostere and cold: lovely when I am in the mood for it.

There is some sweetness to it but not of the bubblegum, nauseating sort... It's sweetness is persistent but quiet, as it is when when one eats licorice or bites into a clove.

Overall longevity and sillage are both great - lasting past 8 hours and pushing out at least an arm's length away.

Don't expect this to be well liked by everyone, especially those uninitiated to our world of fragrances - but don't get me wrong, this is wearable and I would say unisex. And definitely niche...
16th February, 2016

Oud Saphir by Atelier Cologne

A delightful scent from Atelier! One of their best alongside Rendezvous.

I agree with previous reviewers that it's more a leather/suede scent than an oud focused one. It is otherwise beautiful!

EDIT: when I first smelled Oud Saphir I am reminded of Tuscan Leather, but on a side-by-side scent comparison they are clearly different, although both great scents.
24th January, 2016 (last edited: 09th April, 2016)

New York Intense by Nicolaï

Bought this off the back of reviews comparing New York Intense and New York, and having only smelled New York. It is a pure delight - regal, complex and alluring. Fits perfectly in suit and tie, or smart casual... I won't wear it in T-shirt, shorts and slippers to the beach but to each our own.

New York Intense has that same Guerlain connection, which is great, but it is its own excellent scent! If you are thinking of getting a Classic Guerlain (like Derby, Lupin, Chamade, Habit Rougue), do also consider New York and New York Intense alongside. I am personally reconsidering getting Derby since I received this.
23rd January, 2016

Birch & Black Pepper by Jo Malone

Birch and Black Pepper is my reference birch scent - it is definitely smoky and woody, and often sets a more austere mood. Good on its own or layered with other scents (including beyond Jo Malone's).

Longevity and Sillage is better than most Jo Malone's but even then it's still just above average.

I wish it will be re-released again and that it will come in 100ml sizes in Cologne Concentree version.
17th December, 2015

White Musk for Men by Body Shop

White Musk for Men is a good, clean, refreshing and likeable scent. Very versatile and no reason why anyone would turn their noses to it. To me, it's simplicity also lends it a sense of comfort - like an undershirt: it is not complex or to some may not be complete, but it has its purpose.

Contrary to some opinions here, I do get very good longevity out of White Musk for Men. So I often use it as a base on top of which I layer scents like Prada Infusion D'Iris EDP - they layer beautifully and to me I find that White Musk for Men eventually outlast Prada Infusion D'Iris as a skin scent.

So thumbs up for White Musk for Men - agree that I won't pay a lot for it so it's good I got it for $25 for a 100ml bottle. It sure has its uses. Get it if you can at a good price...
19th November, 2015

Embers by Rouge Bunny Rouge

Pepper and incense upfront - in an intoxicatingly mix, which does not evolve as much into the dry down save that the pepper calms down a bit! Well blended with moderate sillage and decently long longevity. It is an utter delight!

It is in the ballpark of Encens Satin by Armani Prive as well as retaining references to other incense (olibanum) focused scents like Armani's Sahara Noir, and being more distant from liturgical incenses like CdG's Avignon, Heeley's Cardinal and Jovoy's La Liturgie des Heures.
07th November, 2015
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Santal 33 by Le Labo

Santal 33 is my favourite of the Le Labo line and the only I was willing to purchase a decant of. It is ethereal and as more of a birch suede focused fragrance supported by sandalwood, with little to no sweetness.

It is however not a complement getter for me - which underscores it's niche quality.

21st September, 2015

Florentine Iris by Ermenegildo Zegna

What an amazing scent with a novel accord brought about by Iris, Violet and Bergamot. This scent is classy and surprisingly clean and fresh without being soapy or citrusy... Guess it can be called ethereal.

Another great scent (next to Indonesian Oud, Javanese Patchouli and Haitian Vetiver) in this high quality collection by Zegna!
14th September, 2015

Armani Privé Ambre Eccentrico by Giorgio Armani

Finally got my nose on it, I have to be honest I am not wow-ed by it. One has to really like Tonka's prominence to enjoy this. I don't get as much an ambre note from this and plum seems to be more of a supporting note for the tonka.

For a good plum scent, I would stick to Atelier Cologne's Gold Leather and for a good ambre scent, Ambre Orient and Ambre Soie are much much better contenders.

For completeness, I have to declare I don't do well with Tonka (and can't stand Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme)...

Hard to justify at these prices especially if you are not fond of Tonka or are just ambivalent towards it.
19th July, 2015 (last edited: 23rd July, 2015)

Coriolan by Guerlain

When Coriolan was released, the concerns were that it was already dated given it was 15 years in the making.

I was fortunate to chance upon 2 50ml bottles of this gem at a local fragrance store and was hesitant cause I am personally not a big fougere fan (am not crazy for oakmoss but appreciate it in small doses). So having read Colin's review previously, I hesitated for almost 2 months before deciding to make the purchase (and am happy that the 2 bottles were still there - the benefits of a nondescript small local store).

Onto the scent, I would say it's timeless and regal... Definitely nuanced but very delightful. Opens with bright lemon/neroli/bergamot and develops a mossy leather vibe. Coriolan reminds me of vintage Eau Sauvage in feel even although there are only a few similar notes (Lemon, Bergamot, Oakmoss, Patchouli and Vetiver). I like Coriolan better than vintage Eau Sauvage though.

It's a shame that this is discontinued, as I think it's a good refined scent.
19th July, 2015

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It is not wrong to classify Tumbuktu as a fruity (mango?), incensy vetiver but this would not do it justice. Timbuktu at the same time allows the individual notes as well as the magical sum of its parts to shine through.

I agree with Classicfan that there is a matte quality about it which reminds of nostalgic old charming places... But it's not dated and more of a warm cosy scent memory.

Timbuktu shares some facets with Olfactive Studio's Chambre Noir and Dzongkha, but I clearly love Timbuktu more than these 2.
06th July, 2015

Armani Privé Ambre Orient by Giorgio Armani

This is one of the best thing within the sub-genre of Ambre which are dense, complex, spicy and incensy. The other contending members are Ambre Sultan, TF's Amber Absolute and Sahara Noir. Mitzah is somewhat in the ball park, but it's more ethereal.


Do not approach Ambre Orient expecting an ambre with sweetness like Ambre Precieux, Ambre Russe, Ambre 114 or even Ambre Fetiche. All these are great in each of the other sub-genres.
05th July, 2015

A*Men Pure Wood by Thierry Mugler

Out of the Amen flankers, Pure Wood is one that is more versatile especially in warmer climates.... It still has references of A*men in the form of the Patchouli and caramel accords, but blended with woody notes which lends it some restrain.

I have A*men, Pure Malt and Pure Leather in addition to Pure Wood, but all these are more demanding than Pure Wood, which I would say is the most versatile and friendliest member in the family.
28th June, 2015 (last edited: 05th July, 2015)

Smuggler's Soul by Gorilla Perfume [Lush]

I just acquired the body spray and it's a delightful earhty scent. Simple, rustic, and sombre... I like it much and agree totally with Alfarom's review below.
18th June, 2015

Perfume Calligraphy Rose by Aramis

I was encouraged by the positive reviews and took a dive and blind bought when I chanced upon it. I agree that this is a different take on Rose and it is balanced with good projection and longevity.

My main issue is that contrary to the reviews below, this sits fairly close to the skin for me and longevity is only average. This was not what i come to expect especially for an oud/rose/incense scent.

Calligraphy Rose also leans toward the gourmand in a turkish rose/ Bandung rose syrup way... and I personally do not take well to gourmands.
08th April, 2015

Bottega Veneta pour Homme Extrême by Bottega Veneta

Just got around to sniffing Botegga Pour Homme Extreme and like many others I like the original very much but an disappointed with this flanker.

I agree it's denser than the original but that does not add complexity not quality, in fact it takes away the restrained Magic of the original. It's sillage is also no better than the original and lonhevity is also comparable.

As an aside, the bottle of Bottgea Pour Homme Extreme also looks less appealing than the originals with the leather detail - At least the pricing of the Extreme is merely a couple of dollars more than the original - but I would rather save those couple of dollars and happily stick with the original.
29th March, 2015

Pomélo Paradis by Atelier Cologne

A most excellent citrus scent, as photo-realistic as Orange Sanguine is for an Orange, Pomelo Paradis is that for a Pomelo.

The uniqueness stems from Pomelo being not as common a citrus note and in Pomelo Paradis it is clearly a Pomelo note and not any other citrus (not grapefruit, not yuzu, and definitely not bergamot/orange/lime). Another great one from Atelier Cologne, who continues to show that they make great scents!
19th February, 2015

Gris Dior / Gris Montaigne by Christian Dior

I am totally enthralled by Gris Montaigne - on my skin, the warm ambery patchouli woody facets shine more with just the right amount of floral. I would say its perfectly unisex.

As with the colour of the juice and the genesis behind this scent, Gris Montaigne is perfect when the sky is gloomy with leaves rustling and when one is in a contemplative mood either taking a stroll down a quiet street or simply staring out a window.

It works as wonderfully in a social event which befits a distinguished aura. Always feel relaxed, calm and composed when I have it on.

29th January, 2015 (last edited: 30th January, 2015)

Javanese Patchouli by Ermenegildo Zegna

When I first sampled the Zegna's Esseze line, the standout was Indonesian Oud (with the perfect balance of medicinal Oud and deep rose, which was unique yet smells professional enough for work). However, it was undeniable that there was quality ingredients and perfumery mastery within the entire range.

I am glad I returned to smelling the range many times over and Javanese Patchouli finally revealed its magic. It's front and centre patchouli, yet it has been miraculously refined (unlike the more often found hippie quotient it exudes). Must try for even those who are not partial to Patchouli, as well as Patchouli lovers just to undestand how this wild note can be beautifully manipulated.
26th January, 2015

Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

Agree completely with Worth1969's review.

I can't stand Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille, but I adore Eau de Baux ("EdB") even though I don't use it often as I should. EdB is a warm, inviting and (unlike Tobacco Vanille) is "never cloying or sickly sweet -just the right"!

With the price point of EdB and in view of the foregoing, a purchase of Tobacco Vanille is just difficult to justify.

EdB is a must try for those who are partial to warm spicy woods!

31st December, 2014

Sacred Wood by By Kilian

My favourite from By Kilian's Asian Tales range - an understated and under-appreciated quality milky sandalwood. It is in the same ball park as Wonderwood / Wonderoud / Hinoki by CdG, but Sacred Wood is definitely more refined, complex and rounded.

I get very good longevity with Sacred Wood and it projects moderately. Whenever i wear it I feel calm and relaxed (as opposed to Dries Van Norten par Federic Malle which is a sandalwood on another realm which stimulates instead of calms, and which is perfect for evoking an altogether different mood/ atmosphere).
14th December, 2014

Armani Privé Encens Satin by Giorgio Armani

Encens Satin is as much an incense scent as it is an amber scent (in the zip code of Amber Soie). This scent is complex and well composed with spices and some sweetness. I however do not agree with the odyessusm that it is intensely sweet - the sweetness to me is restrained and tampered, like a bitter sweet chocolate.

The bottle is also amazing and I absolutely love the blue /black cap! It's like staring into the northern lights as the gradient of black and blue changes depending on the angle it is seen from.
09th November, 2014 (last edited: 01st March, 2015)

Rendez-Vous by Atelier Cologne

This is a truly enchanting scent - soft suede and a restrained intriguing floral scent, which must be the chrysanthemum (or Chinese osamanthus).

There are times when this reminds me of Gris Montaigne for the sude effect, but Rendez-vous is definitely more complex.

It is certainly in the same realm as Bottega Venetta EDP and Iris Prima, but I think this is the stellar in this genre.
06th November, 2014