Perfume Reviews

Reviews by james1051

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Total Reviews: 41

Peety by O'Driù

I don't have a comprehensive review of Peety. I defer to several other great reviews already posted. I just wanted to add a quick impression:

Peety is old school. Its big; offering a plethora of notes which take turns in the forefront. It layers the oriental and animalic notes onto an aromatic structure. Like some of the old powerhouses did. I could swear there is oakmoss in the mix; but perhaps that's just wishful thinking on my part.

Anyway, Peety is a delight. Thumbs up!
10th January, 2017

Rume Limited Cask by Slumberhouse

I come to the Rume LC as a fan of the bold (nuclear) and completely original fruitcake and bay combo in the original Rume "EdP;" and so my thoughts about the LC are necessarily comparative.

The LC throws a lot at you right off the bat--bay leaf, green tobacco leaf, just a touch of red fruit, smoky campfire incense a la Jeke, ash, sage, and dry, dusty wood. The green and smoky incense and tobacco notes dominate the LC for the first few hours, reminding me of a green leaf cigar (lit), like by dad used to smoke on the golf course. Labdanum is there in the background but does not dominate, adding a slightly sweet, dirty and resinous quality. The bay is toned down, and there is far less of the holiday fruitcake and spice vibe one gets with the EdP; although it remains in the background.

As the scent settles in at about 4 hours, a dry woods note comes up, keeping the incense and labdanum quite dry and balanced. The dry down of the LC is very enjoyable indeed. I never found a dry down in the original--it was just full bore for days, or until showered off.

For a review of Rume, one is obliged to discuss projection. While the original is nuclear; the LC is merely Big to start. After a couple hours, it shifts gears, projecting moderately. I have worn Rume LC at work, but recommend dabbing vs spraying. Out of the sprayer, Rume LC is probably still too boisterous for polite company for the first couple of hours. And may even be too much for you, if you are a 5 spray guy.

In sum, Rume LC is a worthy, dry, smoky and aromatic flanker of the original with just a bit more versatility. I don't mean to denigrate by calling Rume LC a flanker. There really isn't anything like it in any other fragrance line. Pure Slumberhouse, the more approachable Rume LC is probably still too big and too dry to be a crowd pleaser. Thumbs up for me.
15th December, 2016

New Sibet by Slumberhouse

Josh Lobb has been on one heck of a roll in the last couple of years, releasing Kiste, the two Limited Cask treatments of Rume and Grev, and now New Sibet. This one defies classification, but I get a wonderful mix of cold iris, leather, a clove-carnation-cinnamon accord, green oakmoss, aldehydes, animalic musk and a light touch of resin, all on a beautiful buttery sandalwood base.

Deadidol identified a pair of reference points--Une Fleur de Cassie and the under appreciated Mare--to which I'll add a third: last year's Grev Limited Cask, which served up an interesting mix of clove and sandalwood. New Sibet is going to join those 3 in my regular rotation. Now to find a bottle.

Big thumbs up.
05th November, 2016 (last edited: 11th February, 2017)
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Grev Limited Cask by Slumberhouse

This review is for the 2015 Limited cask edition

Grev presents mint, clove, sandalwood, green leaf, suede, and a soapy touch in a rather low key package. Quite minty to start, this quickly gives way to the clove and a leaf and stem combo (birch leaf), mingling with sandalwood. The sandalwood was unexpected from reviews of the prior iterations, and it works beautifully to smooth things and to provide a woody framework. While the clove here is prominent, as every review notes, it does not dominate this 2015 scent.

A couple of hours in, the mint and anise are mostly gone, and the clove and leaf are settling down. At this point, the scent has subtly morphed into a wood-suede-herbs combo, set in damp plaster. There is also a clear, but subtle resin. Is that the copaiba balsam? No experience with that material. There is not a trace of either flowers or fruit, and nothing discernibly citric—although the clear suede note could well be the bergamot listed in the ‘house notes for the Ltd Cask edition.

Projection is rather modest, in stark contrast to the reviews of the prior versions. The scent stays close, even with 3 sprays, but it ran all day.

I see Grev as the summer and early autumn sibling to the house's green spring scent, Mare; and an interesting counterpoint to the other SH fragrance occupying the summer/autumn slot in the line-up: Kiste.

Sidenote: the presentation is terrific—pale lime green juice in the new eliptical bottle with gun metal grey hardware. And the price is right--25% less than the rest of the line.

I’ve been looking for Grev for 2 years. Its worth the wait. Grev 2015 Ltd. is recommended to fans of minty and green-leafy fragrances, and should be sampled by folks open to unusual treatments of sandalwood and of woody aromatics generally. 4.5 stars
11th October, 2016

Les Jeux sont Faits by Jovoy

After an interesting start, LJSF resolved quickly to a dry, scratchy synthetic woods and cumin on a too sweet patch base. I didn't care for it; and worse, it gave me a headache. Scrubbed it.
27th September, 2015

Sova by Slumberhouse

Hay, dark beer, pipe tobacco, mashed apples, raisins, dry herbs and honey. Sova is dense and wound tight to start, but slowly unwinds to highlight each of the above facets. Longevity it terrific, but projection is limited, as is frequently the case with extrait+ scents. Just a couple of schmears at the nape of the neck is enough to keep you in the Sova cloud all day.

Sova is Autumn in a bottle, and is made to be worn outdoors in cool weather--at a football game, transplanting perennials and planting bulbs, walking your One, or your dogs. Great stuff. Niche classic.
26th September, 2015

New-York by Nicolaï

A classic in my book, New York is similar to Chanel Pour Monsieur EdT, but with lavender in place of cardamom in the heart, and with just a bit more oomph than CPM. A perfect scent for a gentleman at a business dinner or a holiday party. Perhaps just a bit too much for office wear. Love it and will not be without it. *****
19th September, 2015

Grev by Slumberhouse

This review is for the 2015 Limited cask edition

Grev presents mint, clove, sandalwood, green leaf, suede, and a soapy touch in a rather low key package. Quite minty to start, this quickly gives way to the clove and a leaf and stem combo (birch leaf), mingling with sandalwood. The sandalwood was unexpected from reviews of the prior iterations, and it works beautifully to smooth things and to provide a woody framework. While the clove here is prominent, as every review notes, it does not dominate this 2015 scent.

A couple of hours in, the mint and anise are mostly gone, and the clove and leaf are settling down. At this point, the scent has subtly morphed into a wood-suede-herbs combo, set in damp plaster. There is also a clear, but subtle resin. Is that the copaiba balsam? No experience with that material. There is not a trace of either flowers or fruit, and nothing discernibly citric—although the clear suede note could well be the bergamot listed in the ‘house notes for the Ltd Cask edition.

Projection is rather modest, in stark contrast to the reviews of the prior versions. The scent stays close, even with 3 sprays, but it ran all day.

I see Grev as the summer and early autumn sibling to the house's green spring scent, Mare; and an interesting counterpoint to the other SH fragrance occupying the summer/autumn slot in the line-up: Kiste.

Sidenote: the presentation is terrific—pale lime green juice in the new eliptical bottle with gun metal grey hardware. And the price is right--25% less than the rest of the line.

I’ve been looking for Grev for 2 years. Its worth the wait. Grev 2015 Ltd. is recommended to fans of minty and green-leafy fragrances, and should be sampled by folks open to unusual treatments of sandalwood and of woody aromatics generally. 4.5 stars
23rd August, 2015

I Miss Violet by The Different Company

I Miss Violet starts as a straight up green violet, hitting you immediately with a minty, watery violet+violet leaf accord that reminded me of Unicorn Spell. But only for a minute.

In a snap, a prominent leather joins, with a dusty, scratchy herb (ambrette) that suggests cumin but doesn’t singe the nose, as cumin does. Next to join is a memorable woody note, neither cedar nor oak (although Chene did come to mind). The Notes list says Mahogany, and although I have furniture of mahogany, I have no idea what that wood is supposed to smell like, in a perfume or wood working setting. Lets just say its not your typical wood note, and thats a good thing.

The final piece of the middle accord is fruity. Mandarin and osmanthus join, and while osmanthus can be quite sweet, here it is not. The osmanthus blends well with and complements the leather, adding an interesting dimension to the main leather-wood-violet accord. Toss in a dash of something yeasty (Notes say champagne) and you have I Miss Violet.

So the thumb nail for the first two hours is: floral leather, featuring violet, ambrette seed, osmanthus, yeast and an interesting wood accord. Not ground breaking, IMV nonetheless puts several familiar materials together in a very interesting and pleasing way.

If IMV had managed to just hold that profile for a few hours, never mind actually improve on that opening, as the great ones do, it would have earned a solid 4 stars. Regrettably, instead, at about the 2 hr mark, IMV falls off rather dramatically into a low key, boring dry down of vanilla/amber + violet. What a pity!

Like Ostara earlier this year, IMV is built for folks who like a beautiful opening with two or three interesting accords... and a quick, uneventful ending. Perfume for busy people who don't have time for dry downs.

Verdict: neutral
20th August, 2015

Acqua Santa / Holy Water by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

Fruit, rose, wood, incense is what I get immediately. The rose is clear green and fresh. There seems to be orange blossom in the mix as well. The fruit is orange, juicy and lively. There is an aromatic note (sage?), and the frankincense is light, dry and dusty. The wood is in the background and does not dominate or weigh down this zingy composition. The combination of the whole is minty, fresh and lively. Mild + projection only. Gentle, uplifting, discrete. Thumbs up.
24th March, 2015

L'Arbre by Iunx

The simplest of scents projecting discretely at best, L’Arbre nevertheless gets 5 stars from me for what is, to my nose, the most beautiful, creamy and slightly salty sandalwood perfume presently “ in distribution”*. Per Mark Behnke at cafleurbon: “The rumor I had heard was that Mme Giacobetti has either tapped in to this same new renewable source of Indian Sandalwood or she unearthed a source of aged real Mysore sandalwood.” I don’t purport to know if this is correct or incorrect, nor am I an expert in sandalwood, and I do not claim to have sniffed all sandalwoods currently in production (but I’ve hit a lot of them). What I can say is that the sandalwood note in use here sure does smell like the real deal, and it is special!

So what else is in L’Arbre, besides the alcohol and sandalwood? I’m not at all sure there is anything else. But what is here is enough, with 3 sprays, to place you in your own little sandalwood cocoon for the day.

L'Arbre is discrete, and so I wear it to work often, and happily. Big thumbs up!

* L’Arbre is a Limited Edition available only at the Hotel Costes in Paris—and at Surrender to Chance, when they make pass through the City of Light. So its not exactly easy to find, but it is available presently.

12th February, 2015

Tam Dao Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

Alfarom nails it. I'm not a great fan of the EdT, but Tam Dao EdP is to my nose a big improvement, providing the rounded, creamy notes that the EdT lacks.

Tam Dao EdP is arguably the best sandalwood dominant scent generally available in our era, when real mysore sandalwood is protected and therefore scarce.
02nd February, 2015

Eau Sauvage Parfum (original) by Christian Dior

Powerful, metallic bergamot resting on a sticky syrupy myrrh. Normally a fan of bergamot and of myrrh, I didn't care for either note, separately or as combined, in ES Parfum.

Wore it twice and scrubbed it twice. On neither occasion did I make it far enough into the wearing to experience the vetiver-myrrh dry down, about which I was curious. Oh well. Life is too short.

Verdict: Not your father's Eau Sauvage. PASS.
22nd January, 2015
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Santalum by Profumum

Santalum is a simple blend of sandalwood, myrrh and vanilla, in which myrrh is the real star--fragrance name not withstanding. That tiny bit of deception aside, I found Santalum a comforting and thoroughly enjoyable fragrance, applied lightly. It seems very concentrated--a single spray to the nape of the neck is all that is needed to create a personal myrrh-sandal cocoon for an entire day. Thumbs up.
31st December, 2014

Les Nombres d'Or : Vetyver by Mona di Orio

A vetiver for folks who don't favor vet as a dominant note?

From the nozzle, I get a somewhat floral, slightly powdery mix of notes, including vetiver. On skin, the Mona is woody, nutty vetiver, with pepper or cardamom (although none listed in notes). There is also a vague floral note, apparently violet, but it is in background. The opening phase is very nice indeed, projecting moderately, with a polished, buttoned down demeanor.

A couple hours in, the floral note remains, joined by a soapy aspect, evidently contributed by Clary Sage. Nice, but by this time, I had to put my nose to my sleeve to get a fix on the fragrance; its projection had dropped to almost nothing. Heading into the dry down, to the extent that the fragrance can still be detected, it is primarily a woody albeit rather mild vetiver.

MdO's Vetiver is certainly well made, and might be a good bet (if money is no object) for office wear if said office is not fragrance friendly.

Otherwise, one can find better vets for less $$. Neutral rating here.
10th December, 2014 (last edited: 31st December, 2014)

Russian Tea by Masque

Russian Tea is a highly aromatic, evolving perfume with the best tea note I have experienced.

Immediately, RT presents as a tea scent, very leafy and natural. A tea soliflore perhaps, without all of the the sweetness usually attached to gourmand treatments of the note (5 O'Clock; Crime Exotique). The central tea note here is framed by citrus and by a very grassy herbal accord. And there is a floral note in the background, the exact identity of which is not clear. Is it a mild heliotrope? (NOPE! Its magnolia!) Whatever, the start is terrific, and I am immediately thinking, I don’t have anything else quite like this.

After a bit, I was struck by how incredibly minty it is! And then a dry, leathery base comes up underneath. And as it opens further, an incense note wafts in, triggering associations with Memoir Man. Tea, mint, incense + leather is the heart of Russian Tea.

For its first several hours, RT is very dry and very, very aromatic. But experiencing RT the next morning in its dry down, you can't help but notice that immortelle has arrived in the base, adding a sweet tobacco note to the mix and something else-- I perceive it more as cherries, the notes listed include raspberry. In any event, the formerly dry aromatic now has a fruity aspect which works surprisingly well.

Russian Tea gives moderate projection in all phases, with 12+ hours length. I would wear this fragrance to the office without hesitation--indeed, with pride. FBW. Winner! Among the best of 2014.

PS--The Directory listing for the perfume titles it "Russian Tea Ritual;" but I have not seen the word "Ritual" on the bottle or indeed on the Masque website. Can we edit the Directory listing?
06th December, 2014

Copal Azur by Aedes de Venustas

Is Copal Azur the unusual incense fragrance you want to wear in summer, or a cold weather incense that works by putting you in mind of summer? Yes.

Straight off the nozzle I get aquatic and salt notes, together with a lotion+incense accord, a zingy/salty accord and a floral note that I cannot identify (and which is not listed among the official notes). To be sure, there is a calone note to start, but that passes rather quickly.

In the heart phase, the scent is dominated by a frankincense and myrrhe accord which is dry, zingy, slightly sweet and completely unique; with pop! added by a just right application of cardamom. And, I swear there is a floral note in there that I can't put my finger on.

Although classed as an Oriental (and it does have its oriental aspects), Copal Azure is office friendly without the overly viscous notes one associates with that group. Length is very good.

Copal Azure is a warm weather, almost beachy incense. Cool idea!! It could be great in summer. But even now, in cold, prematurely cold winter weather, it is snappy, rich, dry, interesting, nearly weightless--and fun.
21st November, 2014

Au Delà Narcisse by Bruno Fazzolari

I tried the original Au Dela, which I liked but did not love. So what about the Narcisse flanker?
LOVE!

From the nozzle, I get greenery and very rubbery indolic notes lying upon a slightly sweet, floral platform. As a long time daffodil gardener, I am delighted to report that AD,NdM is a dead ringer for daffodils blooming in spring. And that's a big deal to this novice nose, as I have been searching for a fragrance that truly captures the essence of a vase of daffodils in early Spring.

Entering the heart phase, the citrus top of the original AD glides in quietly, along with a leathery note. Those two mix with the narcissus to produce a completely unique accord which suggests leather chypre but actually goes its own way. I have no point of reference for this accord. It is not a true leather, but something both stoney and slightly plastic-y. How is that possible? Weird. I love weird. Anyway, this phase goes a good 3 hours on the skin--although I sprayed AD,NdM on myself in my car, and 24 hours later, the perfume was going strong, in that mid-phase, in my car.

About 4 hours in, gentle amber and vanilla notes slide up from beneath. 5-6 hours post spray, I still have that weird accord featured in the heart, sitting on a gentle, old timely base. The next morning, that traditional base has become somewhat powdery, but the narcissus lingers through the dénouement. As mentioned, I smelled the narcissus in my car the next day, and rather strongly. Heaven!

AD,NdM never seemed to me to project more than moderately, but it may be bigger than it seems. So my wife says. And the longevity is very good indeed, lasting into the next day.

AD,NdM is a WINNER and will be a regular part of my Spring rotation for the next few years, G*d willing.
09th November, 2014

Mohur Extrait by Neela Vermeire

Richer, stronger, deeper than the original EdP, but not different in kind, Mohur Extrait is a dynamite rose blend. It features a prominent, true, red wine rose note, accompanied by iris, violet, almond and sandalwood. The rose is rich and winey, but not fruity. The sandalwood note in the base is lovely (allegedly real mysore). Projection is moderate and length is very good indeed (all night and well into tomorrow). The dry down is terrific.
21st October, 2014

Eva Kant by O'Driù

Perhaps a bit overlooked on account of the buzz surrounding first Peety and then Pathétique, O'driu's Eva Kant is a completely unique scent that I've taken a very strong liking to.

I get lavender, citrus, a doughy note on a soft woods held together with a cement note. Sounds weird as I've described it, but it is a beauty of an opening. In the mid phase flowers and a gentle vanilla become evident, and the play-doh note morphs into something more approximating band-aids, a la the presently unavailable Skin Graft. In fact, if I were forced to pigeon hole this one, I'd call it a skin scent, but categories are only misleading when applied to a scent as unique as this one. EK dries down as a gentle band-aid/vanilla blend, as goofy as that sounds. The drydown is delightful.

EK never screams. It barely makes moderate silage, but has excellent longevity (18hrs). At the risk of horrifying its creator, EK also is great for office wear. Two thumbs up.
19th October, 2014 (last edited: 20th October, 2014)

Musc Tonkin (Extrait de Parfum) by Parfum d'Empire

Fragrantica says: "The fragrance features natural musk." How can that be? Aren't all musks these days synthetic, the old animalic sources now being off limits? Or perhaps the musks are horticulturally derived? Who knows. Anyway...

Straight from the nozzle of Musc Tonkin, I get an indolic white floral with green, watery notes as from from the blossom, and without an apparent trace of the barnyard notes I was expecting. But 3 half plunges on the sprayer change everything: Po+py, p+ssy musk detonates on my skin, along with tuberose (or jasmine, perhaps), citrus notes, and something sharply herbal & peppery (cumin?). If you like your barnyards ripe, you'll love the opening few minutes of Musc Tonkin.

After about 10-15 minutes, however, the most excremental aspects of the perfume have disappeared, leaving behind a nonetheless indolic, and somewhat animalic musky base. The indoles of the tuberose surely play some role in the base, flowing seamlessly into the earth and barnyard notes upon which the perfume rests during its heart stage. Where do the indoles end and the musk begin? I wonder whether the "musk" here isn't in substantial part plant-based.

In any event, in its heart stage, a subtle rose note enters the picture and sweetens the composition just a bit. And the cumin is now adding its trademark "sweat" notes. At this stage, Musc Tonkin smells like a white floral + rose (Tawaf )+ old timey musk and cumin. Like a beautiful flower on a sweaty human body. This phase is of the scent is pretty good.

The dry down, kicking in at about the 4 hour mark and going a good 12 hours, is more or less indolic tuberose and a trace of musk, with the rose and cumin having departed. And at the 12 hr mark, the perfume flickers out as it started--straight up white floral.

Eh, its not bad, but pretty simple. There are many better white florals; for example, the aforementioned jasmine + rose combo from La Via del Profumo, Tawaf; or the natural tuberose offering from Hiram Green, Moon Bloom. There are certainly better scents by Corticchiato himself (see Cuir Ottoman or Azemour les Oranges). And even if you are a skank lover, there are at least a few using skanky, barnyard notes to far more interesting effect (see Masque Montecristo).

To me, this perfume argues that barnyard notes, if used thoughtfully in a supporting role, can certainly enhance a fragrance, but don't offer so much in a starring role. Musk soliflore anyone? No thanks. : )

Neutral rating.
19th October, 2014

Vetiver Royal Bourbon (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

VRB starts with bright mint, herbs and a sharp citrus (not listed in the pyramid) coupled with a grassy vetiver. This is not the smoky vetiver of sycomore, nor is it the rooty vetiver of the Guerlain classic or the ash tray beast of Fumidus. The middle consists of this same grassy vet and a gentle moss note. I don’t know how they pull it off in the age of the moss police, but Oriza L Legrand is doing nice things with the minimal moss still permitted (see also, Chypre Mousse). Joining later are gentle notes of creamy sandalwood, sweet immortelle and leather, which waft in and out of the vetiver. And that is the profile the scent carries in to drydown. In drydown, which begins very late indeed (about 12 hrs in), the scent heads off gently into gourmand territory, as the vetiver + immortelle combo is joined a surprising cake or dough-y note. Where did that come from, the iris? the sandalwood? Its an unexpected finish to an enjoyable scent.

RVB projects moderately at first, but as the topnotes dissipate, it settles in as a modest (not to say weak) projector. Longevity is very good at 14+ hours.

What other scent is RVB most like? I place it with Grey Vetiver and Guerlain’s Eau Glacee, making it a dynamite fragrance for office wear and a good all around warm weather scent.

The only critcism I would make of RVB is that it would be even better if it had just a bit more oomph in all of its parts. I give it 4 stars out of 5.
08th October, 2014 (last edited: 06th November, 2016)

Skin Graft by Phoenicia Perfumes

The weather turned cool this week. Autumn is here, and I wanted to wear a tobacco fragrance. So I reached for Tobacco Rose...Bzzzt, wrong answer, there is no evident tobacco in Tobacco Rose. That was yesterday. I woke up today intending to reach for Odori Tabacco or something similar. Instead, on impulse, I decided to postpone my tobacco gratification in favor of something different -- a sample I had recently received of Phoenicia Perfumes' Skin Graft.

The choice was serendipitous. For, although Skin Graft is sui generis, I found it to be similar to a tobacco scent, albeit with a modern twist--even though it contains no tobacco and the leaf is not listed in any Notes Pyramids or reviews I have seen. (The official notes are iso e super, honey, jasmine sambac, opoponax and cedar.) Skin Graft is an unusual but easily worn scent, and is a terrific choice for a cool autumn.

As always, I applied 2 sprays to my arm. Out of the gate, SG delivered animalic honey and a smokey, charred wood aroma. After 5 minutes or so, the jasmine and oppoponax come up. They combine for a rather boozy accord that smells at first like a fruity liquor. In the heart stage, after about 30 minutes or so, that central accord morphs to a flowery tobacco. WITH, a very unusual medicinal plastic note, accurately described by DeadIdol as Band Aids! It sounds odd, but it works nicely. And that is what the scent delivers for the next 8 hours or so --a flowery, boozy faux tobacco and Band Aids, with funky honey and charred wood wafting in and out.

What is it similar to? Well, nothing I've tried. The honey and tobacco suggest Fumerie Turque; while jasmine & tobacco call to mind ELDO's Jasmin et Cigarette. But the Band Aid?? Skin Graft goes its own way.

The Scent projects moderately and has very good longevity for a (nearly) all natural concoction. I enjoyed it thoroughly.
06th October, 2014 (last edited: 05th October, 2014)

Eau de Lavande by Diptyque

Eau de lavande starts as a very herbal, non floral form of lavender, sitting upon a mild leathery and ashy base. But after an hour or so, the lavender, which was feint to start with, is gone. What remains is that base, which is generic and boring. Very Disappointing. Pass.
01st October, 2014 (last edited: 30th September, 2014)

Tawaf by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

Easily my favorite jasmine scent, Tawaf just might be my favorite floral fragrance. Super rich, complex, indolic, natural jasmine essence is dominant, with a very realistic rose note in a supporting role. The oppoponax is almost not there--just barely enough to anchor the composition, and not a drop more.

No laundry list of lab made molecules here, Tawaf features just a few carefully chosen naturals, blended with an artist's touch. Wow! Outstanding.

Pros: best jasmine out there
Cons: short lived (3-4 hours for me)

5 stars
23rd September, 2014

Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

A very interesting scent, and also a very, very sweet scent. The immortelle-anis combo has potential, but the sweet facets of the immortelle combine with the vanilla for a Maple Syrup Pancake Breakfast impression.

Points for uniqueness, but I can't wear it.
15th September, 2014

Rozy Voile d'Extrait by Vero Profumo

Alfarom nails it, but here is my take, for what little it is worth:

With only two minimal sprays, I get animalic honey, of the type experienced with Fumerie Turque; a dry, sharp herb (has to be the coriander seed); a rose+blackcurrant combo, of the type explored already in the classic L'ombre Dans L'eau; and rubbery, green tuberose. A few minutes in, an accord reminiscent of Fumidus joins the blend. By that I mean ashtray + a nutty vetiver. Many hours in, the sandalwood in the base is clear, but as a team player. All of this is blended magnificently.

I read Rozy VdE as clearly a masculine fragrance, sporting moderate projection and LONGGGG duration. 18 hours. Spring and Fall wear.

This perfume truly does meld the best of the classic and the new, imho. Vero Kern hits a homerun with Rozy VdE. Its my favorite perfume of 2014, 8 months in.
10th September, 2014

Rubj Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo

2 small sprays, out of the sprayer, give me bright fruits, florals, herbs and citrus. The bitter herbs balance the sweet florals and fruits. The fruit smells like a combo of peaches and pears. Per the Notes, it is passion fruit. The citrus is blood orange. Herb smells like cardamom and pepper, but per the Notes, is cumin. And the floral is clearly tuberose. Combined, the perfume smells like a fruity chypre. Several minutes in, a minty note comes up, that has to be the basil. Basil seems to sit somewhere between patch and spearmint; this one leans to the spearmint side.

The middle is a unique blend of the tuberose, the orange, the fruit, the cumin and a slowly emerging moss note. Rubj EDP occupies some of the same headspace as SH Pear+Olive and Le Parfum de Therese.

As Rubj progresses several hours in, the oakmoss in the base becomes more evident. The dry down is a beautiful late summer fruity chypre. Projection is moderate. Longevity is at least 8 hours +.

This is an excellent summer fragrance, for men or women, and is a WINNER.
08th September, 2014 (last edited: 07th September, 2014)

Ashoka by Neela Vermeire

Ashoka was one of my favorite releases in 2013 and was in my rotation for early spring this year.

I get sweet, fruity notes (osmanthus?), milky fig, an incense note, a mild plastic-leather note and a floral melange, all well blended and quite concentrated. After an hour or two, a salty sandalwood note slides in to anchor the whole thing, and it dries down as a milky fig / salty sandalwood combo. To me it is suggestive of Santal Massoia, Profumum Eccelso and aspects of its sib, Trayee. Projection is just moderate, but longevity is good.

The opening few minutes really are beautiful. Ashoka approaches my 'too sweet' limit, but stays just this side of the line. Winner!
07th September, 2014

Musc by Bruno Acampora

This review is for the EdP spray, released in 2012.

This is a dirty musk, and by dirty, I mean not fecal nor animalic, but literally of, or from, the dirt.

Two quick sprays to the forearm. I get Musk, rose, ash, leather, dirt, cardboard, pepper, and more dirt. There is a green, celery note. And an oily, only slightly animalic musk. After a bit, a peppery tobacco notes comes forward to join the dirt. There is a sharpness to the scent, which must be the clove. 1.5 hours in, the rich, somewhat fruity rose note comes forward, blending well with the clove. As the scent develops, there is little change. The green celery note disappears eventually, but the other notes soldier on, in approximately the same proportions. There is a vaguely woody note in the background, but nothing recognizable to me as sandalwood, and the vanilla is so low key as to be nearly absent--a good thing, imho.

The principal note, the musk, remains as described—dirty, oily, organic, but only slightly "animalic." Projection is moderate, and longevity at least 16hrs.

Verdict: This is a WINNER. Fall, Winter, Early Spring.
01st September, 2014 (last edited: 11th September, 2014)