Perfume Reviews

Reviews by jrmcquill

Total Reviews: 71

Rive Gauche pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Never wear this enough, and every time I do, I wonder why! There is a very familiar accord with this for me. The rosemary really shines at the beginning, giving it an almost garden feel, aided by a stellar array of florals! Things don’t stop here and as it evolves, it shows it’s quality base of anise, clove and coumarin (again, edible) and soft guiac, vetiver and patchouli. A classic, true “Man’s” scent, reminiscent of a quality, urban men’s boutique circa 1935. Thumbs way up!
07th January, 2016

Maxim's pour Homme by Maxims

I am fortunate to have had a bottle of the vintage fragrance and try to wear every so often over the past two years. I remember falling in love with this when I first tried it, but something has happened…it now hardly lasts 2 hours! And if you’re familiar with the stinky opening of this one, the good stuff (REALLY good stuff), takes a while to get to, and sadly I only get to experience what this gem has to offer for a short time. Classic structure with modern luxury! Thumbs up!
03rd January, 2016

Chypre Palatin by MDCI

An absolute favorite, and currently in my top 5! I haven’t been smelling my wrists long enough to know exactly what a true chypre is, and for me, Duchaufour’s creations are usually bigger and sweeter than I like, but this is sheer pleasure! I can wear this anywhere, at any time. It’s classy, with a few nuances that keep it interesting throughout it’s life. Opening with effervescent greens, then showing creamy florals, oakmoss, balsam, sandalwood, vanilla and leather. Two thumbs way up!!
03rd January, 2016
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La Collection Croisière : Jangala by Pierre Guillaume

At first application, I quite like this! There’s an accord to it that I am not familiar’s ozonic and aquatic at the same time? What I like most are the greens this scent projects! I’m certain it’s a combination of the eucalyptus and woods, and the slight waft of coconut…It gives me a sense of being somewhere lush and exotic. It’s just interesting enough to stay on the radar. Thumbs up, perhaps barely.
03rd January, 2016

Eaux Delà : Fortis : L'Eau Forte by Les Liquides Imaginaires

I’m going to try not to do another Black Afgano comparison. This is a darker scent for certain, but I’m enjoying a slightly sweet, fruity/floral aspect in the opening. There is a nice balance between dark and light woods, but I can’t help feeling that there’s something missing. Glimmers of hope are offered during the beginning, but this settles into a sweet-ish vanilla, sandalwood and spicy oud. Nice enough, but a pass.
01st January, 2016

Room 237 by Bruno Fazzolari

This blasts right out to confuse you! I have absolutely no idea what I am smelling…and I can’t stop smelling! That is, unfortunately, less than two hours later, when Room 237 fades into a distant horror movie memory. I personally don’t get vinyl, but perhaps there is a combination of floral, herbal and musk that projects that way? Something synthetically sanitary…that familiar new “something” smell? Hey, whatever it is, it works…just not long enough on me, and for that I would pass, but this deserves 2 thumbs up!
01st January, 2016

Black by Comme des Garçons

Absolutely wonderful! A sharp blast of black pepper opens things up…and it just keeps getting better! With all of the “blackness,” it carries itself deftly, never overwhelming. This is never smoky, but dusty, like ashen coal? As things warm up, frankincense, licorice and cedar smooth things out. I’ve experienced birch tar overshadow when used, but not here! This is modern in construction, but very familiar in execution, and more versatile than one might think. I need to get a bottle! Thumbs up!
31st December, 2015

Equipage Géranium by Hermès

Soapy, minty geranium opens this new twist on a classic. I am fortunate enough to own a vintage bottle of Equipage, and I like how this modernizes and freshens the original, without losing it’s class. My mother always had my old man plant geranium baskets for the house, and I liken this opening to more of the leaves of the plant. This then evolves to show light rose, rosewood, a soft sandalwood, and I even get powdered leather late in the wearing. I still like the vintage original more…for now. This is a well made addition to the name. Thumbs up!
30th December, 2015

Oliver Peoples by Byredo

I really enjoy this one! Burberry London comes to mind, but this doesn’t have the spices and is longer lasting. I grew up in a house surrounded by juniper bushes, and this smells just like that, with a wonderful patchouli note to back it up and just enough citrus to brighten. There is certainly a sweetness here, but nothing like Angel. And yes, just like BL, this has a “holiday” vibe to it, which translates to cozy, comfortable and easy. Thumbs up!
30th December, 2015

Lillipur by Tiziana Terenzi

Opens with a blast of lemon followed quickly by aromas of absinthe, frankincense and peppery spices. The frankincense is the center of attention throughout, but a citrusy floral accord leads to a dry down that features amber and soft wood. This never feels heavy, lasts and projects. Well done. I like it, but probably not a purchase. Thumbs up, though!
28th December, 2015

Esprit du Tigre / Spirit of the Tiger by Heeley

This opens with refreshing bright medicinal mint and a synthetic ash accord. Plenty of pepper and spices to keep things bracing right through the middle. This settles into a muted and toned down version of the opening…dry vetiver, black pepper and mint…and is much nicer. Moderately interesting, pass and thumbs neutral.
28th December, 2015

1740 Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

Probably my favorite HdP, and in my top 25. I love the darkness and mystery the opening blast provides! This fragrance begins by shouting, but through the dry down, does soften This is a leathery patchouli on me, supported by birch, cardamom and coriander, and just enough creamy florals. I’m not very familiar with Immortelle, or the “everlasting flower,” but 1740 showcases it, and I’ve not come across anything like it! Excellent and big thumbs up!
28th December, 2015

Lampblack by Bruno Fazzolari

My first venture into Bruno Fazzolari’s creations, and all I can say is fantastic! There is an almost Comme des Garcons futuristic, well-crafted synthetic nature to this. This is dry and light, but carries it’s fragrance with projection. The vetiver and spice interplay with a plastic and rubber accord. I don’t get a smokiness here, but a definite dark synthetic that is described as ink. I think this could be worn in a variety of situations, including the office, and be just different enough to gain compliments, or at least inquiries! Thumbs up!
26th December, 2015
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Join The Club : Ivory Route by Xerjoff

Super sexy! Completely comforting and satisfying. I know there are a lot of choices in this style, and Ivory Route should be given major consideration. Creamy vanilla sandalwood and cedar, spiced up with somewhat sweet cooking spices. I would put this into that slightly gourmandish, cashmere feel, wear on the date and get lucky…category. Luckily it’s Xerjoff, so the ingredients are of great quality, so this never feels too cheap, too clubby, too feminine or too sweet. Lasts quite a while, and can be sniffed within target range! One of my favorites in the JTC collection. Thumbs up!
26th December, 2015

African Leather by Memo

I was enamored from the first whiff! But wished the magic could have lasted longer. Don’t get me wrong, this is an excellent fragrance, it just delivers everything it has right from the get go. There is a brightness brought on by the bergamot and sat geranium. The saffron, cumin and cardamom add a cooking/edible spiciness, and underneath it all, an animalic leather mixed with creamy woods and patchouli. I would be prepared to apply small amounts throughout the day. I’m on the fence with this one, but I like it quite a bit! Thumbs up.
26th December, 2015

Thirty-three by Ex Idolo

This is another in a long line of rose and oud scents. Although much more appealing than Ryder, this is nothing to cause a stir. The rose is never hidden, and the woody undertones stay relatively dry, with moderately entertaining faint florals and peppery spice. This is never offensive, but never memorable either. It does possess great longevity and projection on me. A pass and neutral thumbs.
26th December, 2015

Eaux Arborantes : Saltus by Les Liquides Imaginaires

Saltus, much like Tellus, is an earth-driven scent. Very musty, dusty and forest floor. There isn’t as much of a smoke to it, but more of a wet smoldering. When all of that dust settles, you have a muted incense, cedar and somewhat funky dry down. I feel there is quality here in the ingredients, just no wow factor. Longevity is moderate at best, and sits close to the skin. Thumb neutral.
24th December, 2015

Ryder by Ex Idolo

Holy amber smoke! This is a little overwhelming. Seems very sweet, as well, making it very cloying. I would go into further detail, but nothing else happens, other than softening a bit through the dry down. Not my cup, but to each their own. Pass and thumbs down.
23rd December, 2015

George by Jardins D'Ecrivains

This goes on very “nag champa/head shop”, which had me worried. I took a leap trusting this would be an office scent, but it is not. I like it…kind of boozy incense, amber, spicy (tobacco?), semi-sweet (coffee?) and somewhat heavy, but it does lay large and therefore suited for active winter night out? I don’t get much florals, even in the beginning, which came across more as sweet Neroli to me. I see George as a contradiction…looks and constructed as something stately and classy, but in the end it’s youthful and proud…and that’s not a bad thing. Nice, but I will pass. Thumb neutral.
23rd December, 2015

parfums*PARFUMS Series 3 Incense: Kyoto by Comme des Garçons

Once again, I am very impressed with another CdG Series 3! This is the brightest and freshest of the series, for me. I agree with the comments that this is a meditative fragrance. Sadly, it does not last long on me…same went for Avignon. This is pure pleasure to wear, and seems to brighten and uplift my energy. If there is such thing as “fresh” incense, this is it. Thumb up.
23rd December, 2015

Aviation Club by Monsillage

I too was fooled by the aquatic blast at the opening! And sure enough, that quickly subsided to reveal an invigorating herbaceous quality! There is a slight sweetness that helps to balance out the sharp, slightly medicinal quality of the greens. There’s a soft wood that carries this through the middle to a dry down that is both woody and slightly sweet, like a coffee and sweet black tobacco, sweet. I suppose the “softness” of the wood could be the leather’s affect? In any regard, I’m interested! This has both qualities of being unique and common at the same time. Big thumbs up!
22nd December, 2015

Marescialla by Santa Maria Novella

My first wearing from a small decant I recently acquired. Interesting indeed! At first I was thrown, as everything kind of comes at you all at have to wait a minute for your brain to figure it all out. Very herbaceous, yet there is a brighter smokiness to it as well. Very spicy and bright woody. This stuff needs to be worn on a day when you can really think about it, but not the office. Ends up a dense, earthy and herbaceous patchouli. Thumbs up!
21st December, 2015

Eaux Arborantes : Tellus by Les Liquides Imaginaires

I like the vibe of this fragrance, my first from Liquides Imaginaires. Has a dark sense about it, but never overshadowing. The patchouli is is more vegetal, but there is an earthy, dirty quality that keeps it from becoming edgy. In the end, I get an earthy amber and patchouli. It is never sharp, but maintains a mustiness to it throughout. Not great, but well done. Thumb neutral.
19th December, 2015

Cuir de Russie Parfum by Chanel

Quite elegant, reserved and classy. This is tailored for formal wear and other times that demand respect! I feel it perhaps too proper for every day use? Opens with bright florals and a touch of citrus, and the animalics appear almost immediately. Eventually, I get a woodsy scent, perhaps the birch tar and tobacco, with it all settling into powdery leather, still smelling a touch wild. Makes quite a statement, and deserving of being included on many short lists. Thumbs up!
19th December, 2015

Usar by Euphorium Brooklyn

This is not flamboyant like 100 Tweeds. This is a subtle fragrance, giving me pine bed, wet earth and a whiff of smoke. This made me think of Norne by Slumberhouse, toned down. There is faint citrus at the opening, but I believe the ginger balances out the earthy and semi-sweet qualities through the end. Good, certainly not great. Thumb neutral and a pass.
18th December, 2015 (last edited: 17th December, 2015)

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême / Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

This is simply one of the most finely executed fragrances in the world. True class in a bottle. Top ten of all time, and most certainly two big thumbs up!
17th December, 2015

100 Tweeds by Euphorium Brooklyn

This evokes memories of summer camp in southwest Michigan! Not something I’d wear in the summer, but one of the most “comfortable” scents I have encountered. This to me is a conifer, incense and woodsy fragrance. Not as much tweed jacket and study, but more mountain retreat great room. Maybe even dune grass? There are far too many ingredients on this pyramid, but they blend together very well! My first opportunity to sample Euphorium Brooklyn, and I am quite impressed! Not for everyone, and certainly a sample first. Excellent juice, and a double thumbs up! Received two compliments the day I wore this…from females. This is masculine in nature.
15th December, 2015

Nanban by Arquiste

This opens as Murdock’s Black Tea, which I am very fond of, but soon the mellow smokey coffee notes bring you through to a dry down that is mostly leather, with coffee and myrrh smoke accents. I had sampled Arquiste some time ago, perhaps it is time to revisit? This is a slightly darker, cold weather friend. Very nice. Thumbs up.
14th December, 2015

T. Habanero by Rania J

I had read of the opening notes on T. Habanero, and I would describe it as a musty, mildewy church basement. This awkward phase lasts around 30 minutes and is followed by the segue scents of myrrh and tobacco. This fleshes out to a nice leathery, oud and a tobacco that’s almost burnt in nature. Very nice, but a bit sharp to this nose. Thumb neutral here.
14th December, 2015

Embers by Rouge Bunny Rouge

This stuff is flat out amazing! My first Rouge Bunny Rouge, and if this is representative of quality and impact, I will seek out others! Goes on bright smokey, like some kind of hot, very dry day in the pines. A punchy opening of an almost holiday spice? A whiff of a floral, a very green floral introduces an ambery quality, and after some time entertaining, it settles into what reminded me of CdG Sugi. This is a well executed, well balance and interesting scent. Two thumbs way way up!
13th December, 2015