Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Ebenas

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Total Reviews: 14

Nuit de Tubéreuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur


This is one I would never have considered in the past. It's very peppery on opening and has a fruity tang that's usually a no-no for me. But, maybe it's the time of day, I'm trying this mid afternoon, and I'm loving it today! It's much spicier than I thought and not too 'sultry tropical'. Actually I think this is only the second or third time I've ever sprayed this -- it was part of a set of four or five travel sized vials I got a couple of years ago from the Artisan website. I think I sometimes get a sort of fatty rancid butter hint from heavier perfumes on initial spray and this definitely had that on last spraying (maybe I imagine it and it's time of day dependent - evening scents in the evening, morning scents in the morning...). It mixes up the floral and the spicy very nicely. I'm even imagining something sweet and sharp like ginger - probably the pepper and cardamom. Anyway it works beautifully today
25th May, 2017

Granville by Christian Dior

This initially seem s like like a supercharged cologne - lemony, green, dry, herby, and has some woody depth. But it's more than that. I love the feeling of pine woods it evokes. I think it may be close to my imprinted dream of French citrussy freshness and herbiness (with zero 'marine' stuff). I find it puts me in mind of soda water fizzing on rock at the beach - something almost limestony if such a thing could be smelled.

I wore it today on a hot sunny day locked up at work with stress and nonsense and it made the day brighter. It has very good staying power for something so citrussy, plenty of herbs (thyme) and spice (pepper) and it never goes into that oversweet verbena territory that many initially promising fresh scents often do.

I really like this - it's just complex enough and magically cooling. It is utterly, utterly French and is supposed to evoke the wind and pine of the Manche coast around Granville. As a child I used to stay very near Granville in the summers, but this doesn't really remind me of that coast in wind and seaside terms - maybe my standards for windswept coastlines are too high (as I was brought up near the dramatic and truly windswept Atlantic coast of the west of Ireland). However the pine and Frenchness of it are spot on.
24th May, 2017

Corsica Furiosa by Parfum d'Empire

I bought Corsica Furiosa a couple of years ago in LA, when I was staying down the road from Scent Bar. After an extended session of looking for the perfect bottle, I got this. I was looking for something cold, or flinty, or green. Well, I got cool and green. I've since decided that my fantasy of a 'flinty' scent will probably remain in the realms of dreams.

CF has a green which is sharp and somehow wild or weedy. I've read a lot of reviews talking of tomato leaf but that's not exactly what I get - we had tomato plants in a sunny room when I was a child and I love and would recognise the smell anywhere. What I smell here is more like a waft of weeds or gorse (green not flowers) on a hot dry day carried by the wind. There's also a citrus note that I love - sharp but not sweet. It's listed as lime, and it's absolutely lovely to see it done justice and not appearing with coconut!

It's definitely and uncompromisingly green, and all day I've been getting hits of sharp dusty shrub.
22nd May, 2017
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Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

This has the most refreshing opening I've had in ages. Pepper and mint, with some anise and clove. So it's spicy, but the mint makes it cool as well and a lovely wake up call. I cannot stand the smell of aniseed, probably due to Pernod and cider cocktails in my youth (sometimes I wonder how I made it this far...), and even the smell of anis or the taste of aniseed chewing gum sets me on edge. But when it's well blended in a perfume I've come to love it! And this is great - all of the components work together in a contrasting almost clashing burst. And it stays good, with some amber sweetening the clove. I'm still getting little bursts of peppery spice hours later. I find this one gives me the mind clearing space I often look for in more incensey scents.

It works so well on a sunny day that I'm very curious on how it will be in the middle of winter - I could be looking at this year's Christmas present to self!
19th May, 2017

Fleurs de Sel by Miller Harris

I start to smile when I get that back of the nose spiky salty herby rush, and feel like I'm in my element every time I get a waft of bracing seaside. Nothing pina colada about this one - it's the sea I know and love - based on Brittany which is similar to my home ground in the West of Ireland. This scent has a lovely grounding effect on me. Wearing it, I feel at home on the planet and I swear it makes me feel physically fitter! It reminds me in a way of peat smoke, along with the briny sea. I also love the dried gorse herby edge which reminds me of winds blowing on clifftops or dunes. FdS is one of a small group of 'virtual reality' perfumes that evoke a landscape or environment for me rather than recalling specific memories related to people or events in my life.
16th May, 2017

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It's chock full of spice and incense and smells like a Hollywood movie about the mysterious desert, but it's also light and airy. I get a sweet 'curry' type smell which makes me wonder if it's more something I'd like to eat than to wear. It's a little too sweet for me - once I smell incense I want something dry and ethereal. But it's not bad at all. After the initial few minutes, it does start to get more airy and mind clearing. I would dearly like to smell the older version as, from my reading, it seems to be closer to what I would love this to be.
14th May, 2017

Tiare by Ormonde Jayne

This is one of my favourites and always makes me feel confident and carefree (but adult at the same time).

I fell for it from a review - I'd been googling Cristalle smell alikes as it was getting more difficult to find the EdT, and this came up. I emailed asking for a sample and was hooked! I've gone through a bottle and a half since..

I reckon the green and citrus freshness is very close to my mental prototype of perfume and I never tire of it, winter or summer. I wear this when I want to feel grown up and capable, and really for the sheer pleasure of the smell! I think my love for these sharp/dry scents comes from my youth - my parents had French friends whose kids were teenagers when I was around 8 or 9 and I was very impressed by the crisp white shirts, suntans, cigarette smoke, and citrus smell they brought to our late 70s Irish household. Odd that the encapsulation of that mood comes from a British firm (OK it was Cristalle EdT that got me first!)
Oddly enough, I've never felt that Tiaré was so close to Cristalle that it wasn't necessary and happily wear both, but Tiaré definitely has the edge on longevity.
11th May, 2017

La Chasse Aux Papillons by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Today is another perfect day and I'm wearing LCaP. It's light, lindeny, floral, and a bit soapy, but it matches the day perfectly. However, I often find that these 'summer walking through the dappled woods and across the fields' perfumes are more attractive to me on dull days, as I long for sharp citrus on summer days. But I'm enjoying LCaP at the moment.

7 hours after application, I'm still getting wafts of floral and a lovely honeysuckle/woody skin scent..
11th May, 2017

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

This was a great love of mine in the mid-2000s and the bottle I have is from 2004, so I'm never quite sure if it's turned on the odd occasions I do spray it. It's a bit of a monster although it's one of the Aqua Allegoria range - I remember giving a talk once where some of the students commented about the strong smell of floor cleaner or polish in the hall! Nowadays, I spray the bulbs in the bathroom with it, and it works perfectly. On me, it's very close to a real grapefruit smell very nicely damped with something darker (patchouli), not at all sweet (which is good!), I think I remember it being described as 'dirty grapefruit'.

So screw the floor cleaner comments, this is a fun ride!
11th May, 2017

Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger

So, it's a light, fresh, floral - I'm getting a lot less of the tea note than I expected. I had been put off tea fragrances many years ago when I had a constant supply of Bulgari Thé Vert shower gel and body lotion - I worked in a charity where a local hotel donated left over guest bottles of these and l'Occcitane products - our clients and ourselves smelled fantastic! Anyway, one day I just couldn't take the tea edge in TV any more and since then have steered clear of it in perfumes.
But here the tea blends beautifully with the flowers - and it has just the right amount of jasmine.

I also admit to prejudice against the whole preppy image of Hilfiger, and imagined that TG would be a sugar bomb. But it isn't. It's very pleasant but has enough depth to keep me sniffing. However, I'll need to reapply later as I've just been chopping celery - which adds a nice edge to TG but may be swaying my judgement.

And the best thing is - no 'aquatic' or 'melon' calone whiff (so far!).

Update: after swim and shower, I reapplied and get more tea this time, but it's still very pleasant!
08th May, 2017

Vetiver Dance by Tauer

Definitely starts out more mosh pit than waltz, but settles into a nice jive.

Some years ago, I sent off for a set of samples from Tauer, and took a fancy to this. I then invested in a full bottle, and have had an odd co-existence with Vetiver Dance ever since. I think my original attraction was to a definite link to Je Reviens, which is burned into my brain after an incident with a 'borrowed from Mum' full bottle of parfum and a jacket pocket in my teenage years (I dream of getting back the smell I remember clinging to that jacket pocket..).

Vetiver Dance (I will not call it VD for obvious reasons) is strong, with a sour citrus and herb giving the vetiver a raw edge. A little after spraying it feels like I've got on a rollercoaster and I'm regretting the decision. I'm wearing it today as I'll be alone all day so won't pressgang anyone else into the ride.

Several hours later and I really like the sour but soft drydown.
07th May, 2017

Mon Numéro 10 by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Everything and anything seems to pop up in this one - but it works!

It makes me think of mixing different coloured plasticine as a child -- that fantastic kaleidoscope of colours just before it merges into a sludge brown. I think this perfume manages to stay at the rainbow stage. It's sweet, spicy, leathery, incensy, gourmand, sometimes almost dry and austere, with some totally bubblegum cherry on top. I wore it a lot in winter when it always felt very cheerful -- but not at all warm. It's monstrously strong but I feel it's light and fun at the same time. My only gripe when I first got this was that it didn't seem to 'settle' on me, it always felt like a scent on top of the skin, and somehow apart. Nowadays, I see that as one of its strengths - it is definitely and uncompromisingly what it is - and one sniff can lift me from whatever nonsense or boredom the day has brought to remind me that there's so much out there in the world... much of which has made it into this bottle.
06th May, 2017

L'Or Bio by Melvita

This was reduced to a tenner in a l'Occitane outlet shop at the weekend, and I'm glad I invested.

Anyway, it's not exactly classic material, but it's stirring memories of the '70s and '80s. It smells like any number of shampoos, cosmetics, etc - somewhat balsamy - notes listed as bergamot, jasmine, fig leaves, tiaré flowers, and cedar, and describing itself as a perfume of light and of life! I keep sniffing it as it reminds me of Flex shampoo, Neutrogena Rainbath shower gel, herbal toothpaste, and especially of these little circular moist pads that came in a plastic box like a compact, which my mother and friends used to carry - probably a precursor to the cosmetic wipes of today - actually I wish today's wipes smelled like those. It's a little like a scent made to cover the acetone of nail polish remover with a bit of the acetone still there - somewhat chemical (although it's actually all natural according to box) but addictive - not quite a complete throwback to Tippex sniffing but definitely down memory lane.

It's like a little scent holiday in the vein of what Agua Motu does for me with seaside smells - bringing me right back to the past via a smell, and quite addictive, so fun to wear, but I don't really know if I'd call it a perfume.
05th May, 2017
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Eau de Protection / Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d'Orange

Opens odd! I suppose that's the blood note but it's not as metallic as blood - more a somewhat fecal/candied attraction and repulsion that has me debating whether to wash it off. Softens to a slightly green rose, keeping a tinge of a strange sweet\tart almost fruity overlay - almost makes me think of gooseberries. An interesting ride.
25th September, 2014