Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by schumi

Showing all 101 reviews

Pasha by Cartier

What a fabulous scent! It's a mere perfect fragrance... full bodied, perfectly balanced, deep, complex, sophisticated yet very sensual. Give me a fragrance with lavender and sandalwood and I'll instantly become addicted. My favourite Cartier, this is one of the very few designer fragrances that totally worth the money.
10 July 2009

Cuba by Czech & Speake

I'm not a fan of tobacco scents but I'm a big fan of Czech & Speake, so I gave it a shot. The opening was very harsh and "dirty" and, unfortunately, it lasted more than I would have wanted. I was hoping that once the mid notes would emerge, the scent would soften and become warmer and more wearable. It did, but just a bit. It still remained a heavy and strong scent. After a few hours, things finally became smoother… The drydown is a woody-herbal-leathery-tobacco mix which, although sounds like a heavy combination, is much easier to take and much more wearable. I actually like this final phase quite a lot, but, unfortunately, the good things in this fragrance emerged too late.

Overall, Cuba is a strong, robust fragrance but which is not my cup of tea. Maybe if I were a smoker, I would like it better. I have to admit, though, that this is probably one of the best opinions I could ever have on a tobacco-based fragrance.
10 May 2009

Ambre Précieux by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

MPG is one of the finest houses in the world and a true niche brand. MPG's fragrances are opulent, rich and almost ridiculously complex. I haven't tried their entire line, but I'm sure that all their creations are anything but dull.

Ambre Precieux is one the finest, most complex, richest and best blended amber fragrances I've ever tried. It possesses a very interesting duality: it's opulent, but not unwearable, it's serious, but not boring, it's complex, but not complicated. It's warm, creamy and sweet but all of that is very well balanced with a touch of spices and incense, thus the scent doesn’t become cloying.

I have to admit that I don't fully comprehend all the faces of this fragrance, it's not my favourite, as I find amber a much too heavy ingredient (Ambre Sultan being probably the best proof of this heaviness - this heaviness being consistently reduced in Ambre Precieux), but I have to admire its complexity and originality, especially in a time when even some of the niche companies have begun creating some quite dull, mainstream fragrances.

I'm definitely going to try more of the MPG's fragrances, as this is one of the most interesting alternatives to all of the "Pour Homme"s, "Eau"s or "Water"s out there.
08 May 2009

Pot Pourri by Santa Maria Novella

I really want to think that this fragrance is better than what I perceive. Based on what I read about it, I expected to love it, but it wasn't quite like that. I find it harsh, much too medicinal and not very accessible. Normally, I would probably rate it as negative, but I feel that the small sample I had was not enough to fully comprehend this fragrance. I really think it takes time to appreciate it. Unfortunately, I did not have that time.
07 May 2009

Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I'll always choose a niche fragrance over a designer creation. And Serge Lutens is regarded as a hallmark for the niche sector, a really distinctive brand, but I just cannot wear any of his fragrances. Ambre Sultan makes no exception... it definitely shares the same base with other Lutens creations, such as Chergui or Arabie: it's stuffy, cloying, medicinal, excessively sweet, way too heavy on amber and vanilla, therefore very, very difficult to wear. I actually find all the Lutens scents much more suitable for room or car odorizers. The worst thing about it is that after smelling it for a few hours, I literally threw up! The good thing is that the Serge Lutens line is really different, but not necessarily good different.
21 March 2009

Nemo by Cacharel

Although I have a very strong reticence about designer fragrances, I thought that the almost unanimous praise that this fragrance gets here at Basenotes would be a good reason to buy this blindly. What a mistake! This is a cheap-smelling, common fragrance! There isn't a single note that I may describe as outstanding, or even above average.
Usually, the openings are very citrus-y and refreshing, and if there's anything bad to follow, you won't get a sense of it until the mid-notes kick in. But Nemo is pretty disappointing right from the beginning. The opening has a very synthetic sweetness which persists through the middle and base notes, but develops into a tart sweetness which I find quite unpleasant. The smoky undertones are not my cup of tea and I don't think they add anything special to this fragrance, on the contrary, the result is an undefined, kitschy mix of synthetic sweet/woody/smoky notes which can be described as anything but a refined creation.
I find Nemo as one of the most characteristic mainstream fragrances, and, although similarities with Allure, another modern kitsch, made me think twice about purchasing it, I thought that in the worst case, this would be a safe, comfortable wear. But I'm so disappointed in it, that I'm probably going to give it away. I just don't get what everyone sees in this plain and dull fragrance. I can't find any explanation for all the rave reviews.
I rate this as neutral simply because I try to be as objective as possible and not let the huge disappointment because of my (probably unjustified) sky-high expectations influence my review.
18 March 2009

Le Roy Soleil Homme by Salvador Dali

This is a summer fragrance, so don't expect anything deep and complex. But for what it is, it's a real pleasure! Bright, smooth, refreshing and invigorating.
03 March 2009

Burberry for Men by Burberry

Much too synthetic. Regretfully, this is a typical modern fragrance.
03 March 2009

Eau de Campagne by Sisley

The initial herbal burst may be too pungent for many. I agree that in the first hour or so, there is nothing pleasant in this fragrance, it's just a raw smell of nettles and a lot of other herbs, but if you give it some time, it will develop into a very nice, smooth and refined scent. The absolutely wonderful drydown deserves the tolerance of the much too green, ultra-sharp opening.
03 March 2009

Infusion d'Homme by Prada

Not bad, but way too synthetic for my taste. Although I do appreciate the clean, distinct quality of this fragrance, it is, just like many of the modern scents, too artificial for me to enjoy it.
18 January 2009

Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

Starts off quite promising but then it develops into a rather mainstream scent. Since this is a summer fragrance, one should not expect a whole lot of depth or complexity, but still, it's quite a disappointment.
18 January 2009

Eau de Santal by Floris

It instantly became one of my all time favourites. You can't get much better than Floris Santal... This is a glaringly beautiful, utterly refined and highly elegant fragrance. Its warmth and softness, combined with the depth and complexity of its development, place this magnificent cologne in the very restrained world of monumental fragrances.

The bright, invigorating opening burst of bergamot, although absolutely fabulous, doesn't really prefigures the magical follow-up. After a few minutes, the soft, almost delicate mid notes break through. The experience is one in a million... a pure, yet complex sensation of joy, uplift and sophistication enshrouds you in an almost magical mix of emotions. A delicate touch of spices prevent it from becoming cloying. Nothing is too much, nothing is too little, everything is perfectly balanced.

After about two hours, Santal turns into a woody, mossy, ambery, but still creamy and mellow scent. Even at this stage of the development, the fragrance conserves its soft, warm, calming nature. From start to finish, this is mere perfection.

The iconic house of Floris has fulfilled its grandiose reputation... again!
01 January 2009

Rose 31 by Le Labo

I find rose fragrances much too heavy and harsh (the only exception being the magnificent No.88). However, I think this one is slightly better than other "rose colossi", like Black Aoud and Voleur de Roses, but still not very wearable.
28 December 2008

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa by Acqua di Parma

In my opinion, this is the least attractive fragrance from the "Colonia" trilogy. While both Colonia and Colonia Assoluta are two outstanding clean, refreshing summer fragrances, Colonia Intensa digresses from the path followed by them. This is sharper, heavier, stuffier, more rugged, less citric, less floral, woodier and more herbal (not really surprising, since this is the only masculine fragrance from Acqua di Parma). It's not terrible, but it does seem unpolished compared with the other two. Another big minus is that it doesn't seem to have a clearly shaped personality, I can't really put a label on it and I can't categorize it in any way. Therefore this turns out to be a generic, common, uninteresting fragrance.
28 December 2008

Aramis by Aramis

Rough, very rough, rugged, heavy and very masculine. I guess this is hairy chested men only territory.
27 December 2008

U by Ungaro for Him by Ungaro

Another fragrance from a million other. Simple, common, cheap, very cheap smelling. I'm pretty sure that Ungaro will never release anything nearly as good as their fabulous trilogy of the early 90's. That's a pity.
25 December 2008

Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

I have no interest in the new, "modern" fragrances. They are all very common and cheap smelling. In my opinion, the 80's and early 90's were the most glorious years of fragrance industry. That was the era of many all-time classics, as well as some of the finest niche creations. I have yet to find a fragrance released in the new millennium that makes my world shake. Gucci is another big, iconic name that has fallen from its pedestal with the release of this... insult. It doesn't even deserve to be reviewed.
25 December 2008

Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

Acqua di Parma Colonia and Colonia Assoluta are THE perfect summer fragrances. I think they are some of the finest fragrances ever created. These two clognes are made for the rich people, those who wear white bathrobes and sip extravagant cocktails on their luxurious yachts, wallowing in the Mediterranean summer sun. These are the scents of Monte Carlo, Cannes and Nice. These are the scents of the beautiful people.

Although separated by almost 90 years, they are very much alike... and they both are some of the very few fragrances that do reach perfection.

I don't know which of the two I like the most... I don't want to like one more than the other, so I'll write this review for both.
07 December 2008

Acqua di Parma Colonia by Acqua di Parma

Acqua di Parma Colonia and Colonia Assoluta are THE perfect summer fragrances. I think they are some of the finest fragrances ever created. These two clognes are made for the rich people, those who wear white bathrobes and sip extravagant cocktails on their luxurious yachts, wallowing in the Mediterranean summer sun. These are the scents of Monte Carlo, Cannes and Nice. These are the scents of the beautiful people.

Although separated by almost 90 years, they are very much alike... and they both are some of the very few fragrances that do reach perfection.

I don't know which of the two I like the most... I don't want to like one more than the other, so I'll write this review for both.
07 December 2008

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A total disappointment. The first few minutes are very sharp, with a sour note in the background, and then it dries down to an unpolished, unrefined scent. An untypical L'Artisan fragrance.
29 October 2008

Santal Noble by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier

There's a lot going on in Santal Noble. It is a very rich oriental/woody fragrance which could be quite difficult to wear. I actually find this scent more suitable for aromatic candles, burning sticks and other types of room fragrances. It is strong, even harsh and may not be enjoyed by everyone. I appreciate its complexity and the multi-faced, multi-layered structure: it is at once woody, a bit smoky and with a hint of spices now and then.
Santal Noble is an opulent, formal, serious, cerebral fragrance. No play, no games, no jokes, everything is as sober as possible. I appreciate these characteristics in a fragrance, but I think Santal Noble is just too much for me. I couldn't wear it, at least not now or in the near future.
29 October 2008

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

My first impression was one of a very opulent, but medicinal fragrance. I detect a significant amount of amber, which, together with the sweet/leathery notes, contribute to the medicinal/harsh impression. It reminds me of some very strong amber-based fragrances, like Ambre Sultan or Ambre Precieux. I would never wear this fragrance, I find it much too harsh for everyday usage. But, I appreciate the fact that it is different and unusual, so I rate it as neutral.
29 October 2008

Dune pour Homme by Christian Dior

A fresh, sweet, gentle and comfortable scent. Suitable for casual wear, this is a timeless sensual fragrance.
27 October 2008

Dior Homme Sport by Christian Dior

A fresher, more comfortable and more wearable version of the original Dior Homme. The opening shares a bit of the artificial notes of the original, but these are just some of the very few and dim signals that this is another version of Dior Homme. These artificial notes are far weaker and less inconvenient and they quickly disappear, making room for an ultra-fresh and invigorating scent. While the original is suitable for a cold, snowy, winter day, the sporty version is perfect for the hot summer days. Dior Homme Sport is a citrus fragrance which remains fresh and uplifting from start to finish. The lemony note remains strong and noticeable long into the drydown, an unusual characteristic even for a citrus fragrance... you won't find many fresher and more invigorating scents.
27 October 2008

Guerlain Homme by Guerlain

A very modern and invigorating fragrance. It starts with a very pleasant and fresh citrus note and then it dries down to a soft and comfortable scent. It remains fresh and uplifting from start to finish, making it suitable for the young, energetic generation. I don't think it shares the classic Guerlain characteristics, but than may not be such a bad thing.
27 October 2008

Sculpture Homme by Nikos

A wonderful fragrance, I love it! It doesn't smell artificial at all, on the contrary, this is a sexy, soft, gentle, refined and cheerful scent. It is also a very modern fragrance, a morale booster, suitable for a young, energetic, optimistic and well-mannered person. It instantly became one of my favourites. I will always buy it without hesitation.
27 October 2008

Pi Neo by Givenchy

I enjoyed the opening very much... It was very clean, fresh, invigorating... nothing like the original Pi. It lacks the cloying vanilla sweetness of the original, and that made me think this is going to be a better, more wearable and more enjoyable follow-up. But as the middle notes kicked in, it became a bit common... even mainstream. After a few sniffs I found certain resemblance with Armani Code, a fragrance I wore until saturation, so can't find it interesting anymore.
27 October 2008

No. 88 by Czech & Speake

Art & emotion … this is what No.88 is all about!

A GOTHIC and DIABOLIC cologne - undoubtedly a perfect signature fragrance for DRACULA.

The almost unanimous opinion is that No.88 is a monumental fragrance. I was awe-struck by its grandiose status, so I timidly opened the door to its world… It was a transcendental experience that changed me forever… The emotional abyss sucked me in instantly and I woke up in a Gothic universe. I was overwhelmed by the gloomy atmosphere of a haunted castle, bathed in the blue light of a full midnight moon. Dark roses, funereally strewn all over the place, are accompanied with excerpts from Clint Mansell's Requiem for a Dream Soundtrack gravely resounding in the background. Here, a Gothic girl is lonely mourning the spiritual desert of the outer world in what seems to be the last ritual of an aggrieved soul... A warm and hallucinatory dizziness enshrouds her, as she hopelessly commits herself to the bloody count… It all seemed like a dream… Only the smell of roses remained as a memory of her sacrifice…

At the same time, it is THE ABSOLUTE ELEGANCE, THE SCENT OF THE KINGS! (which is only natural for a fragrance created following an original Elizabethan recipe)… A magical duality!

No.88... a nonpareil... a unique monument in the world of perfumery...

16 October 2008

Isfarkand pour Homme by Ormonde Jayne

Isfarkand starts off with a pleasant and refreshing citrus note, but then all I can get is pure incense. After sampling all the non-feminine fragrances from Ormonde Jayne (Orris Noir, Ormonde Man and now Isfarkand), I have to say that this is far, far away from what a niche company should be. All their fragrances smell very generic and cheap. I find the auto-characterization from the Ormonde Jayne web-site an insult:
"The story of this unique luxury perfume house is one of uncompromising perfection. Known for the rarity and purity of ingredients, sourced personally from growers in far flung climes such as Indochina, Arabia, the Amazon and Madagascar, and alchemised in our own London laboratory, Ormonde Jayne has attracted the admiration of the perfume cognoscenti and fine fragrance lovers worldwide."
I could (should) have rated all the Ormonde Jayne fragrances as negative, simply for the huge disappointment they produced on me.
08 October 2008

Ungaro I by Ungaro

Top Notes: Lavender, Bergamot
Mid notes: Pine, Wormwood, Patchouli, Jasmine, Precious Wood, Geranium
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Tonka, Honey, Amber

Now here's a strange fragrance. I've gone through almost half of a 2.5 oz bottle before I could finally appreciate and understand the beauty of Ungaro I. This is a wonderful woody-fougere which may not be enjoyed by everyone, but its uniqueness and elegance cannot be ignored by any fragrance lover. It is deep, boozy, alcoholic, mossy, damp, in a word, intoxicating. As a matter in fact, I think it's the booziest and most intoxicating fragrance I know. It's also a serious, intellectual, introspective fragrance and those who can appreciate these qualities and also its lack of sexiness and sensuality will certainly adore Ungaro I.

Although it's not quite the masterpiece that Ungaro III is, it completes one of the greatest (if not actually THE greatest) trilogy in the men's fragrance history.
05 October 2008

Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne

I find its construction a bit similar to Ormonde Jayne's Man, but this is less herbal, a bit sweeter and overall, better. Anyway, Ormonde Jayne is a niche brand and it is supposed to be very unusual, bold, innovative and different, but actually it's anything but. Their fragrances are awfully generic.
02 October 2008

Yatagan by Caron

Now that's an awful scent! In fact, it's probably one of the worst I've ever tried. Too heavy, too woody, too sour. It could well be a signature fragrance for a sweaty and hairy truck driver or a boor, rough-voiced forester. Since I'm neither of those, needless to say I can't stand it.
02 October 2008

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

A sour/spicy mix of woods and herbs. Bad from start to finish. And it also smells very, very generic...
02 October 2008

L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

A classical citrus fragrance. Not better, nor worse than tens of other citrus colognes.
30 September 2008

Paco Rabanne pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

Now that's a great classic! It's in the same category as Antaeus, Chanel Pour Monsieur or Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme... it follows the same path as those, but I like this one better. It's cleaner, sweeter, softer and even classier! Not only that I think this is one of the best classics, but it's also one of the finest fragrances I've ever tried. Oh, and it's not dated at all, this is the timeless elegance that will never die. And also, it's very wearable... this is not an old gentlemen only cologne, but it's suitable for anyone who can respect and appreciate a such refined fragrance.

Simply wonderful!
30 September 2008

Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

Serge Lutens is one of the most highly acclaimed fashion houses, so obviously I had very high expectations from their fragrances. Chergui was my first experience with Lutens, but it wasn't as earthshaking as I was hoping. Certain notes remind me of Givenchy's Pi... very sweet and vanillic, but Chergui is richer and deeper. It's not a bad fragrance, for sure, but to me it seems more like a designer creation than one I would normally expect from Lutens, namely a complex, unusual niche fragrance.
29 September 2008

Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur

A lovely scent! I'm actually surprised that I like it so much, because I don't like tea nor do I like smoke. But, somehow, this manages to be one of the classiest, most suave, gentle and refined fragrances I've ever come across. I find it hard to describe this wonderful scent, it's almost an emotional experience that must be savoured by any fragrance lover.
29 September 2008

Voleur de Roses by L'Artisan Parfumeur

It would be a tough challenge for anyone to make a fragrance worse than this. It smells dirty, repugnant, unfastidious, ungracious and it makes me sick. There's a total lack of sweetness, warmth and refinement that I find unbearable. I would have never expected such an unpolished and rude fragrance from L'Artisan. A total disappointment.
28 September 2008

Black Aoud by Montale

I'm all about originality, unconventional and... strangeness. I admire unusual fragrances even if can't carry them off. But Black Aoud is just too much to take. It's way to medicinal, bitter and artificial. At the beginning, I tried it on my skin for a few times. I knew that the opening would be very hard to take, so I didn't care much about it... I was eagerly awaiting for the scent to develop into something rich, deep and warm... Hours after, nothing happened, it was just as medicinal and synthetic as it was at the beginning.
Then I read some absolutely hilarious opinions saying that one should wait up to 12 hours for the scent to start developing!!! What??? Are you kidding me? Why in the world would I want a fragrance to become pleasant only after 12 hours? I'll probably be back home, sleeping like a baby when it would presumably start evolving. So what's the point? When the fragrance should smell good it stinks, and when the day is over it (allegedly) smells nice. I guess I should spray it on the day before going out, just to be sure that it will smell good when it should. As far as I'm concerned, it may turn into gold after those 12 hours, I just don't care, it would matter anymore.
Anyway, as I never spend more than 24 hours without showering, I tried it on paper as I wanted to see if it really does develop after many, many hours. It didn't... So I'm really surprised why so many people like this linear, simple, superficial and artificial fragrance.
As for comparisons with Czech & Speake No.88, none of them is apt. No.88 is light years ahead of Black Aoud. While No.88 is a masterpiece and one of the most complex, multi-faced and sophisticated fragrances, Black Aoud is just linear, medicinal and harsh.
26 September 2008

Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermès

A refined citrusy-fruity fragrance which smells "expensive". I have troubles finding big differences between this and Terre d'Hermes, as they share the same notes and structure.
A nice, happy, feel-good scent, but not quite an earthshaker.
16 September 2008

Eau d'Orange Verte by Hermès

It's pleasant alright... refreshing, uplifting, comfortable. But, just like most other citrus fragrances, it lacks complexity and most importantly, development and staying power. It's an easy, simple, plain fragrance that I would see myself wearing during tennis matches. I think it suits white, sporty outfits and should be worn with a relaxed, easy-going attitude.
Regarding the composition, it's simple and pretty well crafted. All I could smell was oranges and mint.
16 September 2008

Patou pour Homme by Jean Patou

I think Patou pour Homme is slightly overrated here at Basenotes, but that doesn't mean it's not a great fragrance. I don't find the opening as loud and herbaceous as others, on the contrary, I think PPH is one of the few fragrances that seem to be very smooth from start to finish. I love its slightly "oily" character, noticeable especially in the opening, which is probably responsible for its smoothness and which also gives it an expensive, sophisticated feeling. What I like a bit less is the smoky, incense-like note which may add masculinity to the fragrance, but it diminishes its luxurious aura. The drydown is truly a high-class smell: woody, smooth, rich, refined, intellectual, stylish, elegant and again, expensive.
Overall, PPH is a wonderful experience, one you may not discover in many other fragrances. One of the very few scents that come close to perfection, yet they don't really achieve it.
13 September 2008

Ungaro II by Ungaro

I have mixed feelings about Ungaro II... On one hand it has a wonderful citrus opening, which gives it a clean and soapy character. With such a beautiful start, one can expect nothing but a magical follow-up. But I was left a bit disappointed. I was expecting a much more radical development, I would have definitely wanted it to become smoother and warmer. A slight incense note becomes noticeable after about an hour, which is not necessarily bad, but it represents the end of the clean, soapy smell that I loved at the beginning. Hence, Ungaro II becomes heavier and even dirtier. What follows seems to be a rugged blend of raw ingredients, lacking the polish that I would expect from such a fragrance.
All in all, a good fragrance, very formal, classy and elegant, but which leaves the impression of a great potential not being entirely put to value.
06 September 2008

Sira des Indes by Jean Patou

It's a very fruity and flowery fragrance. The woman who wears it is young, optimistic, enthusiastic, joyful, energetic and dynamic. Yet she's sensitive and delicate. It's also a bit reminiscent of a candy shop, but that re-enforces the idea that this is appropriate for a young person. It's not bad, but a fragrance with such a wonderful name should have been more oriental, sensual and mysterious.
13 August 2008

Joy by Jean Patou

I had much higher expectations from "the most expensive fragrance in the world". To me it doesn't seem to be dated at all, it's really a timeless perfume. It's fruity, flowery and cheerful. The woman who wears it is optimistic, happy and enthusiastic. It's not bad, but I expected it to be a much more sophisticated and elegant fragrance. Maybe if I hadn't known it was classified as one of the greatest fragrances of all time, I would have rated it as positive. Maybe my expectations were too high...
13 August 2008

D&G Masculine by Dolce & Gabbana

Top notes: lemon
Mid notes: lemon
Base notes: lemon
I've said it all.
13 August 2008

Individuel by Mont Blanc

Very nice. It's fruity, cheerful and bright, great for a young and enthusiastic person. It might tend to be a little bit sweet and reminiscent of a candy shop, but still, a pleasant scent.
13 August 2008

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

Some fragrances smell cheap, other smell generic, but other... other smell really bad. Givenchy Gentleman is on of those. When I first tried it, I thought the bottle had gone bad, so I gave it another shot, from a different store. The effect was the same. For absolutely no logical reason, I gave it a third shot... Again, a disappointment.
The opening is by far the most awful thing I've ever smelled: it's smoky, it's smother, it's choking. I simply couldn't be around that smell for more than a second or two. As it dries down, it becomes a little bit more bearable, but still, to call this a fragrance is an insult.
I certainly didn't expect this from a classic, especially a Givenchy classic. It's absolutely dreadful, it really, really stinks!
13 August 2008

Vetiver by Guerlain

Way to green !!! It really has nothing special IMO, just herbs invading your senses. It reminds me of Chanel pour Monsieur, another uber-green fragrance that follows a recipe that has been proved to be safe. Apparently, people love this kind of fragrances, so why change anything? Don't take any chances, don't try anything new, don't come up with something original... I don't like this approach. I rate this as neutral simply out of respect for Guerlain and because of the history behind this fragrance.
11 August 2008

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

I have a problem with classic scents, in general. To me, they all seem to follow a recipe that has been proved to be safe. No major innovation, nothing really new, nothing original or earthshaking. I have to admit though, that they smell pretty good. But again, it's a recipe, and when it comes to fragrances, I don't find this approach very salutary.
Eau Sauvage... another classic scent, but a very good one. It starts off very loud, very sharp (too sharp IMO)... it's like blades going through your nose. But once you get pass the first minute or two, it becomes bearable. The citrus notes are on the center stage, so the fragrance remains fresh and invigorating even after about an hour. Then it gets a bit warmer and smoother... now it really becomes great. The drydown is somewhat similar to Armani pour Homme: elegant, comfortable, with warm citrus giving it a classy allure.
11 August 2008

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

Designed for a rebels & mavericks. Very red, especially during the mid-notes. Also goes well with a red convertible on the streets of L.A. The drydown gets a bit greener, but remains smooth and pleasant. A macho scent, for sure.
11 August 2008

Cool Water by Davidoff

Indeed very similar to Green Irish Tweed. Although I think it's not as complex and smooth as the later, I do find Cool Water a surprisingly high quality scent. I'm a big fan of sandalwood and CW really has one of the best usages of this. Very well balanced, very fresh (it lacks a bit of warmth, though), this is worth every single penny. It's very elegant and classy, a true gentleman's cologne.
10 August 2008

Black Sun by Salvador Dali

I was expecting much more form Black Sun... The name seemed to describe a very different fragrance: dark, funeral, introspective. Instead, I get a rather generic scent, a bit similar to Armani Code. Not as complex as I would have wanted it to be, not as dark as it should have been.
10 August 2008

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

Not much to add here... A classical fougere that possesses a timeless beauty which ought not be ignored. The mid notes are very green and invigorating, but maybe a bit too green for my taste. The base notes however, are much better. The drydown reminds me of Van Cleef & Arpels' Tsar: herbal, lively and rather cool. It's also a very elegant fragrance... I can't imagine wearing it with anything but a suit and a tie. Although not in the same category with legends as Armani pour Homme, Green Irish Tweed and other great fragrances of the 80's, Azzaro is a perfume that definitely should be discovered by many.
31 July 2008

Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera

Nice... Very slightly resembling Boucheron's Jaipur (although it's far from the refinement of the latter), this is a comfortable fragrance that proves to be very easy to wear. It's a sweet and light scent that seems to be a safe choice almost anytime. Not necessarily an impressive perfume, but a pretty enjoyable scent. Worth a try.
31 July 2008

Présence by Mont Blanc

A surprisingly nice fragrance! A very light, sweet and spicy scent that proves to be wearable and comfortable. It reminds me of Boucheron's Jaipur, but this has some slightly green notes during the drydown, which make it fresher and easier to wear, but ultimately less complex and less interesting than Jaipur. Appropriate for daytime use, it is definitely worth at least giving it a try.
31 July 2008

ZegnaIntenso by Ermenegildo Zegna

This is 100% Armani Code with a different name and a different bottle. I can't imagine how Zegna would have no remorse knowing they copied Code from start to finish. And this is not their only plagiarism... Zegna Extreme is a direct copy of Terre d'Hermes.
25 July 2008

Allure Homme by Chanel

To me it seems like a mainstream fragrance rather than a refined Chanel. It's not repugnant, but not great either... I would expect more from Chanel. I also think it's a pretty sporty scent, so I don't see why Chanel felt like they should have another sporty version of this one. It's nice to wear on daytime, but I don't think that many would turn their heads when you'll pass them.
25 July 2008

Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

This is probably the most feminine smell of a masculine fragrance. When I first tried this, I was actually sure that there was also a feminine version of Egoiste and that I must have taken that bottle by mistake. It had to be, this couldn't have been a masculine scent. When I realized this was actually a men fragrance, I tried to figure out what the people from Chanel were thinking when they came up with this scent, but I couldn't...
24 July 2008

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Chanel

Way too sharp, too loud, too "green"! It's elegant, alright, but only after the top notes fade away. I can't really smell this in the first few minutes, I feel like it's cutting my nose off. I agree it's a popular fragrance with quality ingredients, but there's just too much to take during the top and mid notes. Not pleasant at all.
24 July 2008

Antaeus by Chanel

It's hard to describe this fragrance... It's a very deep and complex scent, that's for sure, but it seems to me that it has no personality, you can't really put a label on this one. The smell is ok... green, but with no particular earthshaking or original notes. I agree it's elegant and classy, but definitely not a top fragrance.
24 July 2008

Calvin Klein Man by Calvin Klein

Just another green fragrance... Nothing original, nothing refined, very mainstream... Horrible! I can't imagine how a fashion label would create such a dull and common fragrance. It has absolutely nothing special, nothing you could enjoy. It's surely one of the worst perfumes I've ever encountered.
24 July 2008

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

It's not all bad... but there is something about it that makes me vomit. If you stick your nose in an urinal, you'll smell Kouros. Dreadful! I can't imagine how this is YSL's best selling fragrance...
24 July 2008

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

Much too green and sharp for my taste. I agree it's an elegant fragrance, but it has nothing special in my opinion.
24 July 2008

Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

An elegant and very refined fragrance. Definitely green, but not sharp and loud as most of the green scents... this is clean and comfortable. I like it a lot, it's formal, classy and very complex.
24 July 2008

Original Santal by Creed

Although it's a very sweet fragrance, it's not cloying at all. I just love this kind of sweetness... very refined and comfortable. Nothing artificial, nothing synthetic, everything natural. A great scent, suitable for cooler months.
24 July 2008

Himalaya by Creed

A wonderful scent! Along side Green Irish Tweed and maybe Millesime Imperial, the best Creed I've tried so far. Many Creed fragrances have a rather powdery drydown, which is not bad at all, but sometimes it can become a bit too sweet. Himalaya is somewhat different, the drydown is sweet and green at the same time, giving it a very light and elegant allure. The mid notes resemble those of Original Santal: warm and very, very comfortable. Overall, a perfectly balanced fragrance, suitable for almost any occasion. One of perfumery's finest!
24 July 2008

Fleur du Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

A very light and refined fragrance. One of the most interesting male florals, it is a good choice almost anytime, anywhere. It lacks the depth and complexity of other florals, such as Ungaro III, yet I don't think it was designed to compete with them. This is easy, straight forward, with no shades at all. It was meant to be as simple as possible, yet refined enough to make a difference. It's a morale booster, a joyful scent, just like the one who wears it.
29 April 2008

Ungaro III by Ungaro

This is pure art & pure emotion ! An absolutely outstanding fragrance, a true masterpiece !!! The hight of elegance and sophistication is achieved in such a natural way, that this becomes one of the most comfortable and wearable fragrances. An epic scent, a poetry of roses and woods, a perfect blend of the finest ingredients. It goes beyond your senses and takes your soul to a journey where the future and the past merge into the uppermost sensual and romantic experiences. You'll discover new emotions and relive the past ones through the purest and most naturally sophisticated scent.

I've tried hundreds of perfumes and I can safely say that only some Creed creations (Bois du Portugal, Green Irish Tweed, Millesime Imperial) are at this level. These are all in a class of their own. The only difference is that the Creed fragrances are 3 or 4 times more expensive.

Indeed "a poem of heart and soul" !

03 April 2008

Hypnôse Homme by Lancôme

I had rather high expectations from this one, but I was utterly disappointed. This is one of the most common and cheap-smelling fragrances I've ever encountered. There's just nothing special about it, nothing enjoyable, not to mention anything refined or sophisticated. The only positive thing about this fragrance is the bottle, which I have to say is splendid. If you want something really complex and highly sophisticated, go for THE masterpiece of perfumery, Ungaro III (or Ungaro I if you can find it).
14 January 2008

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

A typical Cartier fragrance, although I was rather disappointed by what it should have been the icon of the Cartier male fragrances. The sweet and fruity notes are not bad, but the overall scent is just too cold, diminishing the great potential of its high quality ingredients.
12 January 2008

Emporio Armani Night He by Giorgio Armani

A great fragrance, I think it has the best usage of spices ever. The opening has a lovely fresh-spicy scent (I can smell the pepper immediately, it's not necessarily a mid-note ingredient), while the warm drydown is a pure joy. A must have.
12 January 2008

Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

I don't know whether to like this fragrance or not... On one hand it really seems elegant and even refined, on the other hand it's the coldest smell I've ever encountered in a perfume. It's like spraying your refrigerator... That I don't like, I rather enjoy the sweet, warm and balsamic scents that don't give the unpleasant freezing sensation.
11 January 2008

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

The opening has a very nice citrus scent (the grapefruit is dominant and has a very pleasant sweet note), but hen it settles down to a rather artificial smell. There's just too much candy aroma in there, especially for a summer fragrance.
11 January 2008

Boss Soul by Hugo Boss

Not a bad fragrance, but not great either. The sweet and smoky notes don't complement each other very good, so that oftentimes it seems too smoky and smother.
11 January 2008

Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari

Very disappointing, a boring and common marine scent. It's not unwearable, but there's just nothing special about this fragrance at all.
11 January 2008

Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron

Boucheron is one of my favourite perfume designers. With Jaipur being the masterpiece of the oriental scents, I had great expectations for this one. I wasn't disappointed, but because it was such different from Jaipur, I realized that I'm not going to wear it at this age. It's very mature and masculine, and also very, very elegant and sophisticated. It is in the same category as other rich and complex classics, such as Armani pour Homme or Chanel pour Monsieur.
11 January 2008

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

By far the best Guerlain, this is a highly elegant and sophisticated fragrance. One of the richest and most complex scents, this multi-faced fragrance never ceases to amaze me. Sweet and woody at the same time, it's perfect for a gentleman's signature. A great modern symbol of the legendary House of Guerlain.
11 January 2008

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

This daring oriental fragrance has one of the best mixes of sweet and spicy scents, making it very suitable for autumn and winter. It's not for everyone, as it's very different from all the classic scents, but if you are the person who doesn't want to stick with the bunch and to be "the guy who smells really interesting", this is a great choice.
11 January 2008

Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin by Lolita Lempicka

One of the best gourmand scents, sweet and edible, but very comfortable and smooth. Not a very pretentious fragrance, I find it suitable for casual wear. Overall, it's very nice, but not as good as Rochas Man.
11 January 2008

Emporio Armani He by Giorgio Armani

A very nice fragrance for the younger generation, this is perfect for summer wear. The smell of oranges is the best I've encountered so far. It's very citrusy, but not too sharp, very clean and luminous and very... Armani.
11 January 2008

Armani Eau Pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

A wonderful fragrance! A true classic, this is the hight of timeless elegance. The lemon-citrus opening might be a bit too sharp, but then it settles down to a very warm and smooth scent. Resembling Chanel Pour Monsieur, this complex and sophisticated scent is perfect for formal occasions. Undoubtedly created for gentlemen, this fragrance is suitable for people over 40 years old only.
11 January 2008

Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

Pretty good, the sweetness is nice and quite well blended with the other aromas. However, there is something that makes it smell rather dirty and cloying.
11 January 2008

Gaultier² by Jean Paul Gaultier

Awful! Like Joop!, this one is a candy store in a bottle. I like sweet fragrances, but I don't want to smell like bonbons. The magnetic scent, not a very good idea either, it makes it very artificial.
11 January 2008

Joop! Homme by Joop!

Absolutely dreadful!!! It's like smelling a entire candy store condensed in a bottle. Also very, very artificial. I really can't see a man wearing this fragrance.
11 January 2008

Bulgari Black by Bulgari

A great fragrance, though not necessarily unisex, it's rather masculine. Alongside Boucheron Jaipur and Rochas Man, the best sweet fragrance. The smoke and rubber scents aren't what you would normally expect, they are very subtle and veiled perfectly in a sweet and warm aroma. The touch of tea is also very noticeable, giving this fragrance a rather poetic allure. The bottle however, is horrible, it looks like it was made by someone who was in a hurry to catch a train and didn't have time to pay any attention to details. I've tried four bottles from different places and all of them were broken. This makes me think that maybe this fragrance turned out to be great by accident. But overall, this is one of the best scents you can find.
11 January 2008

Pi by Givenchy

The biggest problem isn't that there is too much vanilla in this fragrance, but rather that sometimes it seems that's the only thing there is. However, I still think it's a good fragrance with a great potential that hasn't been used at it's maximum level. This scent is right on the edge of becoming cloyingly sweet, but it manages to stay on the safe side. It's the sweetest bearable and enjoyable perfume. It's warmth not only makes it proper for winter, but actually it's the only season in which you can wear it. Any attempt to wear this perfume in the summer will result in the intoxication of those near you... it's that sweet! However, for colder days this is a good choice.
11 January 2008

Armani Code / Black Code by Giorgio Armani

A very nice oriental scent. The citrus opening is not at all acrid like in many other fragrances, but very soft and pleasant. The warmth of the fragrance kicks in immediately, giving it a sensual allure. The mid notes become spicier (a characteristic of many Armani perfumes), but not over the top, so that the olive flower remains very noticeable. The blend of the ingredients is just right, making it one of the best Armani fragrances.
11 January 2008

Rochas Man by Rochas

Without a doubt, the best gourmand fragrance. The composition is perfectly balanced so that this is probably the only 100% sweet scent that doesn't become either cloying overbearing. This should become the landmark for all the designers that want to create very pleasant and wearable sweet or gourmand fragrances.
10 January 2008

Bois du Portugal by Creed

Like all the Creed creations, this one is also a masterpiece. It's one of the richest and most complex scents, and the veiling of the sweet notes by the spicy notes is very subtle. Unfortunately, sometimes too subtle... An earthy and woody scent, this one is for gentlemen only!
10 January 2008

Millésime Impérial by Creed

Am absolutely outstanding perfume! I don't see it as an unisex fragrance, but more as a masculine scent. Very clean, bright and warm, this highly elegant and sophisticated fragrance is a true masterpiece!
10 January 2008

Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

Probably the best oriental fragrance. Very classy, very elegant, this perfume is truly poetic. The blend of sweet and floral notes is just perfect, resulting in the most balsamic scent I've ever smelled. It's not necessarily the most masculine scent, but that's a good thing because instead of the heaviness and the roughness of the classical fragrances, you get a luminous and luxurious scent. The only problem is that the mid notes tend to be a little soapy, which can become a bit cloying.
10 January 2008

Terre d'Hermès by Hermès

The top notes contain a nice citrus aroma, especially orange. In the mid notes, the smell becomes sweeter but the orange remains noticeable. Although a blend of orange and sweetness is one of my favourite aromas, the mix in this fragrance results in a rather lolly pop smell which I don't find very masculine.
10 January 2008

Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

Good for athletic activities and summer days, but nothing special at all.
10 January 2008

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

Dior says this one will become a new classic. It's not classic at all, it's very different (but not necessarily "good" different) from anything else. The initial burst is one of the few smells that can make me sick instantaneously. But the drydown is way better. The mix of flowers and sweetness is well balanced, with the iris being on center stage. The biggest problem though is that it smells very, very artificial, while the beauty of a perfume are it's natural ingredients. I agree with those saying it's mid notes smell like a make-up bag, but the base notes are much more flowery and gentle.
10 January 2008

Envy for Men by Gucci

This one abounds in sensuality, I think it's one of the sexiest fragrances on the market. Resembling YSL's M7, it has a woody-sweet oriental aroma that is ideal for romantic wear.
10 January 2008

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

Along side Ungaro III, the best perfume ever! Incredibly elegant and sophisticated, this woody fragrance is for the man who understands the importance of a perfect look and attitude. The Creed man is a gentleman... his shirt is always clean and his shoes are always polished.

P.S. I don't smell anything green in this one...
10 January 2008

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

It's elegant, but not luxurious. It's masculine, but not the most refined. It's actually rough. I can't feel any smoothness in it and that's a big minus, even for a very masculine fragrance. Overall not a bad choice, but if you want the state of the art go for Ungaro III or almost any Creed.
10 January 2008

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

The top notes are awful, it's more like a stanch than a perfume. But as it settles down, the mid and base notes are pretty nice and warm. It's sweet (like all the gourmands) but not necessarily cloying. If you can hide for 10 or 15 minutes after you've sprayed it, then it's ok to wear this in public.
10 January 2008

Escada Homme by Escada

I was very surprised to discover that Escada can make such great perfumes. This one is truly exceptional, a highly elegant woody-floral fragrance that goes perfectly with a suit and a tie. Somewhat similar to Ungaro III and Green Irish Tweed, but not as deep and complex as those. If you're looking for high class, faultless style and elegance, this is a great choice.
10 January 2008

M7 by Yves Saint Laurent

A very sensual and modern fragrance, resembling Gucci's Envy. The sweet and spicy notes are blended just right, so it becomes neither cloying nor "in your face". Suitable for romantic occasions.
10 January 2008
 
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