Fragrance Reviews by jathanas

Pay no attention to critics of Azzaro pour Homme, especially the voices that proclaim it dated.

A famous designer once stated that "fashion passes, style remains". This holds true for this timeless honeyed blend of lavender and anise over a base of leather and amber.

If this designer classic was a niche release people would gladly pay 4 times its current retail price. Hell I might start wearing this gem more frequently just to piss the Tommy crowd off :)

As others have stated it has a green character. There are spices and angelica over a base of woods, incense, and vetiver. Well made and well behaved, but ultimately I already own a number of scents in this category that I prefer over this.

Yesterday I went to a local store that sells niche perfume lines with the aim of buying my wife an anniversary present. We married in our early twenties, and 16 years on we can afford to splurge on each other as life has been good to us.

I tried out quite a few from Lutens, CdG, and Malle. I was all a bit ho-hum until I took a whiff of Carnal Flower. It rocked my world! This is just an amazing floral; one can only admire the quality and artistry of Carnal Flower. I get tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom on a base of white musk. Identifying the notes is an intellectual exercise but with Carnal Flower it's just as important to simply state: "This smells amazing!".

I was moved because through Carnal Flower I learned that beauty goes beyond gender.

I can't give it a thumbs down as I've smelled much worse. Freash clean opening over a generic woodsy base.

No where near as beautiful as Armand Bassi in Red.

This is an impressive fragrance suitable for all occassions.

The citrus opening notes are zesty and fresh without seeming synthetic or sharp. The heart is floral but never too sweet or indolic, resting on a base of clean woods and muscs. I purchased this for my wife prior to becoming a basenoter but I can still see the charm in this underrated beauty.

Longevity is great, thums up.

The reviews I've read tend to focus on the first phase of its development where the gourmand aspect dominates. The honeyed cinnamon and vanilla, teaming-up with the roasted sesame seed notes in the opening have resulted in all sorts of olfactory associations with buns, cakes, and pastries.

The magic in this fragrance is how it improves over the course of hours. Much of the sweetness of the opening fades. The heart is about the warm spices playing against a sweet tobacco accord that I can only describe as totally enveloping. When compared with other ambers I've tried, or own, it occurs that there is nothing sharp, resinous, or amber dominant about it.

As Ambre Narguile dries down that velvety spice lingers over a base of sweet-smoky-amber. I would assume that this is the labdanum, which is used in perfumery as a substitute to ambergris. It is said to have a smell that is described as sweet, woody, ambergris, dry musk, or leathery; according to wikipedia.

Normally when a fragrance is this well blended I can't detect individual notes, but I happily identify the transitions. With Ambre Narguile I can enjoy each phase of its journey and also pick a few of the individual accords. I get very good longevity, a liberal application lasts all day on me.

Ambre Narguile is not an edgy composition that I appreciate as an artistic endeavour. If this was priced and distributed as a regular designer fragrance my view is that it would enjoy record sales. I feel lucky and privileged that I can own this gem; I'll never be without it.

The first minute or so the impression is OK. A cool spicy accord gave me hope that this was going somewhere.

The fun stopped abruptly when I got a whiff of a cheap accord that just smelled off.

I try to give every fragrance a fair go, this however is a scrubber.

I've worn Terre d'Hermes for the last 2 years, mostly during 2007-08.

It was love at first sniff. The top notes of citrus are uniquely implemented, and the progression to an earthy accord accentuated by vetiver is brilliant. Ultimately its popularity might be its downfall. I will always own and respect it even if I don't wear it as often these days.

Reviewers criticising L'Eau d'Hiver are missing the achievement here.

This fragrance manages to be fresh but warm, formal but relaxed. It is a soft unisex fragrance, which I would describe as powdery (iris), floral (hawthorn, jasmine), and sweet (honey).

I don't wear it often but it is interesting, unique, and classy!

I feel compelled to offer this as a warning: DO NOT BLIND BUY!

I'm not able to elaborate on the development of the fragrance because I can't get past the opening. Very stuffy like a dark room that hasn't had any fresh air or light for years, saturated with rose pot pourri. Not for me.

2007 Reissue

It opens with a crisp citrus accord, it really is zesty! Not too sharp for me but others might be challenged. The lemon, orange, and bergamot are very well blended, in a way that lets the wearer detect each accord but without any dominating.

As it transcends to the heart I get lavender and chamomile. This is the first time I've ever detected a chamomile accord in a fragrance and it works! Again, I must mention that the blending is masterful.

The dry-down is a combination of oakmoss, wood, and musk, It isn't very long lived but I get 4 - 6 hours with liberal application. The journey however is fantastic.

Together with GFT and Colonia Assoluta, L'Eau Neuve now stands head and shoulders above the rest of my citrus frags. It is classic but modern and never becomes animalic (which was my major gripe with Eau Sauvage). This is a complex composition that I believe would be a nice addition to any citrus lover's wardrobe.

I can't get over the boozy opening. It is certainly a unique way to introduce amber. Ambre Sultan uses spice, Ambre Precieux uses woods, and Blue Amber sweetens it further with vanilla, and I can enjoy all of them. This ambre however I can only appreciate not love. Neutral for originality.

This is reminiscent of PdN's Cologne Sologne and both are beautiful if you are a lover of neroli. True to the name it follows the traditional cologne formula to a "T". As always with Trumper you get a well made product but it wont knock GFT of its pedestal as my "numero uno" from the line.

This is not a "toned down" version of Gucci Envy but rather a more refined one.

The sweetness of the heart is beautifully balanced by the peppery spice. Masterfully balanced this one is for the self assured gentleman who feels no need to scream.

My love affair with colognes continues and GFT offers one of the most bracing citrus openings you'll encounter. The transition to the cypress and lavender heart takes place while the citrus still exists, very smoothly blended, the cypress doesn't dominate. The cedar base follows and the overall experience is fresh and clean without any calone; a winner then!

Longevity is above average for this excellent fragrance. Truly versatile GFT will not scare anyone in an office environment, but is also suitable for any occasion where one requires understated elegance.

Smooth. Classy. Masculine. Sweet. Spicy. Oriental. Classic.

It is true that there are similarities with Green Irish Tweed.

Green Valley shares the citrus of the opening as well as a green violet leave accord of the heart. The differences exist in the mint and ginger that exist in Green Valley, which lighten the overall character and make it less earthy.

A quality fragrance which is ideal for day wear or warm weather.

I can now see the uniqueness of this juice.

The strong sweet opening, the gourmand accords, and the dry-down that lasts all day.

Heaven in a bottle. After a year of delving into niche releases I've come full circle and I can really appreciate the magic here, frikkin' awesome!

One of the first frags I ever enthused over.

The zesty opening is beautiful, and I love the spicy heart (nutmeg and clove). To my mind this is an absolute classic!

AdP Colonia Assoluta opens with a zesty citrus burst. Not as zesty as the original but what won me over is the warmth of the spicy, floral heart.

I'm not sure if it is listed in the ingredients but I get a subtle lavender. This product has impressive longevity for a colone. It evokes a sense of comfort and a certain Mediterranean minimalist eloquence.

Such classy freshness, it is an absolute joy to have such an all-weather, any occasion fragrance in my rotation!

Berries and clean musc. Who would have thought?

L'Artisan have created in Mure et Musc Extreme a fragrance that offers the most natural fruity accords. Truly unique in that the berries here aren't sweet or gourmand; instead they are zesty and crisp.

Ideal for daytime occasions,or the office. Longevity is about 4 hours which is OK as I like to wear something else in the afternoon.

I'm wearing Chergui today for the first time in a while. The question I ask myself is: "How beautiful is this juice?", followed quickly by: "Why aren't I wearing this more frequently?".

Chergui opens with a warm spiced milk, honeyed-tea accord. I get amber and sweet tobacco in spades after a couple of hours. It projects beautifully and more than one would imagine. I got complimented from every lady I met this morning (OK it was only 3), still, this is the only time this has happened to me...

This review is long overdue for what is an amazing oriental!

Green Irish Tweed is an ideal fragrance to be worn during business hours or for general daytime activities. The opening is very well blended, I can't isolate a lemon note even though it's listed. The violet leaves are what the heart of this fragrance is about and they do provide for a green floral counterpoint against the musky ambergris. The sandalwood is a soothing base. Sillage is magical and the longevity is 4-6 hours on me.

Really, it's a flawless fragrance and Green Irish Tweed is an excellent all-rounder that never fails to invite compliments.

Habit Rouge EDC

As recently as a few weeks back I had a view of Habit Rouge as a dated classic that I couldn't love. My appreciation for it was purely clinical and based on its well crafted citrus-vanilla-leather implementation.

Today I experienced a Habit Rouge epiphany. I was able to wholly appreciate the sweet citrucy opening and lose myself in its magic. Once it settled, the powdery vanilla accord asserted but it never became cloying; and for the first time I thought that I should wear this sophisticated fragrance more frequently.

I now count myself among the many admirers of this scent!

Quite simply the most appropriate lavender note I've had the pleasure of sampling. It is a true implementation and once it settles it radiates a soothing lavender accord of real beauty. Linear but in this case that's just fine.

Exquisite and calming.

Neroli. Clean. Fresh. Pure. Invigorating.

I prefer my citrus frags to be clean and fresh, this carried a bit more funk than I'm comfy with in the opening. It gets better as it evolves but I can't get over the dirt...

Chanel Allure Homme is a good candidate for an all-occasion fragrance.

It opens up with smooth citrus accords and moves to a very slightly peppery heart before the vanilla / tonka take over. It is a soft, sweet oriental. There are propably another 63,000 fragrances that do this but Allure Homme does it damn well!

This stuff is hugely overrated!
I bought a bottle based on the glowing reviews of LAdDM and boy was I in for a surprise! Tauer seems to have a common base for all his products and it just doesn't work for me, too harsh. That's not to say that I liked the topnotes either all I get is incense and... a turpentine like accord which others might call citrus. Not for me.

Bland washed-out opening leading to an underwhelming base. Not worthy of much comment, what were they thinking?

Chanel Pour Monsieur is an eloguent, uplifting classic in the citrus chypre mould.

Each phase of its development offers something special. The zest of the citrus in the opening, the spicy heart, and the cedar-oakmoss base are blended immaculately. This fragrance is a perfect example of its kind and its appeal is timeless.

Two thumbs up for this legendary juice!

Paestum Rose is a stunning application of rose. In my collection it complements Aqua di Parma perfectly. Where Aqua di Parma is bright, summery, and almost ethereal Paestum Rose is dark, mysterious, and dangerous.
It starts off with woodsy incense, where the rose is present but not dominant. The floral heart is beautifully balanced with fruity accords. That's what I get for hours on application and it is just so eloguent.
An absolute gem of a scent, thumbs up for a 5 star fragrance.

The respected reviewers before me describe Eau Lente perfectly. As always Vibert and Foetidus articulate the development in far greater detail than I can manage. In a nutshell - you get clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon, on a oppoponax base; masterfully blended.
What I can add is that there is nothing in my collection like Eau Lente, not even close. This is an important fragrance.

Is this the tackiest bottle in the world? Strong contender for sure...

Idole de Lubin is a marvel created by no less than the stunning Olivia Giacobetti. Her work prior to this was about whispers, pale colours, and instants. I for one am delighted she decided to embrace a different approach for Idole.

The opening gives me booze, spice, and saffron; the brightest saffron accord. A subtle citrus manages to round out the experience and provide an overall balance so it never becomes too vibrant in any way. The heart is full of warmth, sweet and spicy; one might detect cumin. If one could match textures to a fragrance I'd nominate syrup to this phase of its development.

This gem continues to shine in the dry-down where it becomes a comfort scent. Here I'd match it to velvet. I get a beautiful blend of warm woods and amber; this is 6 hours after application and what an amazing ride it's been!

My journey of amber exploration is over!

I have found my holy-grail amber in Blue Amber. I've sourced the parfum concentration which might differ from the "eau du parfum" as it is more concentrated. The development is linear but in the nicest possible way; from start to end the wearer is enveloped in a beautiful rich amber. The warmth that this fragrance radiates is appreciated by all. I've received compliments from both sexes, and what's even more notable is that Blue Amber is worn by my wife making it the first fragrance we've shared. Longevity is just outstanding, I can still detect it on my skin 24 hours after application.

This fragrance is just divine and Montale deserves all kudos.

I get oud and leather to begin with and woods on the drydown.
Is this the strongest & loudest modern fragrance in my wardrobe? Perhaps, but it's also one that's agreeable to my tastes, I find it be well blended. This is to my mind a modernized version of the 70s and 80s powerfrags, so it would be very easy to overdo it. Applied in a conservative manner (2 sprays max) I can see this getting a lot of play during the cooler months.
Longevity is outstanding and it projects like you wouldn't believe!

I'm not sure masculine is how I would describe the porterhouse steak and turpentine accords. As it evolves the meat-factory smell hasn't disappeared before the tyre burn-out note comes to the fore.
When I do smell like this it is usually because I've slaved away cooking charcoal steaks for the family. I don't have any desire to capture that smell in a bottle, even though my son and I are rather fond of char-grilled porterhouse cooked medium-rare to perfection.
In closing I would humbly suggest a rename for this product: "Porterhouse pour Homme"

Cypress scents are usually found wanting due to their linear development; the pine dominates, leading to associations with disinfectants, toilet cleaners etc.
Tuscan Cypress is an exception. While the cypress accord is there it is masterfully balanced by the herbal/citrus opening and the aromatic lavender heart. This is the best of the blu mediterraneo line to my eyes. Versatile and beautiful it is a keeper to be enjoyed on a any casual occasion, the office, a warm day... the possibilities are endless.
Mediterranean minimalism at its best!

Scent Intense binds with its rich tea opening and holds one captive for the whole ride. As it evolves a sweet floral accord presents but never dominates, this is not a cloying fragrance. The dry woody amber surfaces and stays to the end. It is rich and resinous but it isn't a screamer; it speaks strongly but does not need to shout. Other reviewers mention the word "dark", I get that association.
So well blended it encapsulates the wearer with an aura of sexy sophistication. That, is what makes this scent unique in my mind and an immediate placing in my top five.
The longevity and sillage are good, what a find!

Just offensive this stuff, unworthy of much comment. Why would you pay to smell like that?

I developed an instant emotional connection with Tam Dao and therefore it's hard for me to offer an impartial review; wait, that's never stopped me before.
Tam Dao opens with a resinous accord that brings a vivid image of moist cedar being sawed. Any sharpness settles very soon as a smooth sandalwood comes to the fore. That's where this fragrance evolves to a soothing balm for my mind, almost meditative.
It's unisex and good for all occasions without being generic. Amazing and a top 5 in my collection! Longevity is average.

Vétiver Tonka is a very interesting creation. bbBD's review mirrors my opinion on this fragrance perfectly (and writes it much better than I would). I need to highlight though just how well the vetiver and the tonka balance each other out; together they become greater than the sum of their parts. My favorite vetiver implementation and one of the best Hermessence products.
Hint: Vetiver Tonka and Ambre Narguile layer beautifully.

Ambre Sultan is a definitive fragrance. I'm currently on an amber journey of exploration and it is my reference point for amber.
The spicy and resinous opening is powerful but not sharp. I get oregano and balsamic accords in the top notes. The first 10 minutes might be the most challenging for some, as it really does start with a certain intensity! To judge AS only on the opening is to miss the most impressive development.
As it evolves on my skin the woody accord (cedar?) arrives and it smooths out the sweet amber. The heart of Ambre Sultan is so well blended, it has a deep and complex structure that I find calming. The longevity is befitting of such a high caliber fragrance, excellent!
To finish it would be remiss of me not to mention that it is big compliment getter.

I don't share the view that this is a "lesser" offering from Prada when compared to Amber or Infusion d'Iris. Infusion d'Homme opens with a very prominent almost too sharp neroli note. Very quickly the soapy iris accord comes to the fore and settles there for the whole ride. Being a fan of expensive-soap type fragrances I find this to be beautifully blended and will surely get lots of wear during the coming summer months.
I stays close to the skin but lasts well for 4-6 hours. It is very appropriate for the warmer weather, the office, or just when one wants a prolonged feeling of clean-comfort.
The packaging is very impressive to my eyes. Another nice product from Prada!

Fleur du Male has a very synthetic opening. I'd go as far as using the term cloying to describe the sweet chemical smell. This is quickly over and then much more is revealed.
Once it settles the floral heart comes to the fore and I find it to be a well balanced fragrance. As foetidus writes in his review it isn't overly sweet but manages to be quite unique. It does carry a "toned-down" version of the vanilla accord found in the original "Le Male" which agrees with my skin chemistry.
This is a "try before you buy" but thumbs up from me as I very much enjoy wearing it.

I can't help but feel a little disappointed by Tom Ford for men.
The "cologney" opening offers a promise unfulfilled. It aspires to a Colonia Intensa character with zesty citrus notes and a woody-leather-floral heart but unlike the AdP product it just fades from my skin in less than an hour. It is well blended but I just can't accept the total lack of longevity.
This is my first thumbs down.

Musc ravageur is a very powerful fragrance. I can detect the civet as well as sweet spices in the opening. As it evolves the cinnamon, vanilla, and tonka come to the fore; stunning development. It lasts for ages and projects all day. Honestly this is no aphrodisiac, but it is a very impressive fragrance indeed. Amazing!

Opens with a boozy bang but that's fleeting. It quickly settles to something more subtle; a spicy, woody heart. This one will not please the fans of the 80s powerhouse frags as it is too refined (didn't want to say weak). I too would wish for more "noise" and longevity from Burberry London but It still deserves the thumbs up due to its overall quality.

L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme is a very nice woody citrus. It has very impressive sillage for the type of fragrance that it is, as well as a unique drydown. I'd describe it as daringly floral! Great for the warmer weather or the office so thumbs up from me!
A point needs to be made about the negative remarks made about this fragrance. Perfume is such a subjective matter so it is normal to have people say: "This doesn't do it for me". However, when I read a reviewer make a comment that "this is too popular... for beginners only... my olfactory is too sophisticated and evolved to rate this highly" I have to ask where the problem lies; the fragrance or the reviewer?
Back to Issey Miyake: If you want to smell pleasant on a warm day, buy it. If you want to target the opposite sex - buy it. If you want to rate highly among the pseudo-intellectual "olfactory - black belts", save your money and buy a Creed (doesn't matter which one).

Fahrenheit is a masterpiece. It begins with a unique benzoin (read burnt rubber) note. As it evolves the green notes come to the fore. I detect sweet woody notes during the dry-down. The longevity is stunning. I would never have guessed that women love this fragrance, yet they do. Apply sparingly during the cooler months; best worn out of the office.
Impressive, a real man's frag!

Immaculate is the way I describe Jazz.
It opens with bergamot, and transcends into a spicy floral heart. The striking feature is the overall smoothness of the composition. It's never too heavy, nor too light! The soft woody dry-down is surprisingly pleasant.
Sillage is appropriate for a fragrance of this type.
Damn this is good!

Bvlgari pour Homme is an exceptional fragrance. I get the tea more than the bergamot, in the opening. It evolves in a subtle, close to the skin manner to a clean musky-tea accord. The strength of this fragrance is more about the sum of the parts and less about how many individual accords one detects. It projects so appropriately. An eloquent scent that doesn't need to scream. Exquisite!

Warm, smoky, and woody. The incense shadows the top notes. This juice evokes an image of an elegant setting during a winter evening. It manages to be formal but modern, dark yet surprisingly this fragrance gets compliments from women. This stands unique in my collection, furthermore it is a keeper to be sure.
Colossal!

I get passion fruit. The dry-down is pleasant, not as fruity but still sweet. A scent for the 20-30 year olds. Pleasant enough but it won't be remembered as a classic.

A groundbreaking classic. No other perfume of it's time better defined the era. I understand the criticisms i.e. cloying and synthetic. That however is to neglect the sillage, longevity, warmth, and uniqueness of this juice. In my mind this one sits very comfortably among the other legendary frags like Paco Rabanne, Aramis, Azzaro, Eau Sauvage etc. 2 thumbs way up!

D & G has a magic sillage. It isn't a heavy fragrance but the sweet tobacco dry-down puts it apart from today's fresh clones. The opening is unique, yes just a sweet citrus, but unlike anything else before and since. GIGANTIC - 2 thumbs fully erect :-)

This is my first purchase of a L'Artisan product. How natural! The ingredients must be top-notch. The citrus opening and the "clean-green-and oh so mean" dry-down impress me no end. I've purchased this for my wife, who enjoys fresh smelling fragrances but I can see myself wearing this one as well. Classy, a cut above.

Perfect post workout fragrance, especially layered with the body wash and deodorant. I ride my bike to work and use Mugler Cologne after I shower. Classy freshness in a bottle and the "clean" smell lasts all day at work. Excellent!

This is a quality scent. Exotic and woody it was one for the times; I wore it in the eighties. Apply sparingly - 2 sprays max and you can wear it on any occasion during the colder months.
Good value if you can find it discounted.

Sweet opening and a vanilla dry-down. I get compliments about this one. The top notes remind me of the smell of my grandmother's kitchen when she'd bake biscuits. Very romantic and warm, apply lightly and you could get away with wearing it at work.

A very classy winter fragrance. I don't get the citrus at all! I'd describe it as sweet and powdery (must be the rose). Visualize a Xmas fireplace surrounded by loved ones; more warm than sexy...

I have a small bottle of this at my beach house. It just seemed to be the right location for an ideal warm weather fragrance. Best way to describe it? Clean citrus.

This is a smooth scent. Spicy (tea-cinnamon) opening and sweet woody dry-down, its a winner. I suspect that the "experts" who declare this to be bland or ho-hum refuse to acknowledge any fragrance that isn't strong in the traditional 80s power frag kind of way. GPH II is subtle and needs to be appreciated differently.

I've had this for 3 days and now I better understand the fragrance. The initial impression is of a masculine fragrance, not harsh but not like the generic aqua-ozone-syntheto-fruitjelly stuff the marketers think we should be buying either. The topnote I get most is the lavender / shave cream blend. It dries down to a sweet-creamy-spicy smell, you could almost forget it's there. This fragrance projects to others more than yourself, so be moderate in the application. A winner with it's cerebral nature guaranteed to create a lasting impression.

I wore Cool Water during my honeymoon in the Maldives in 1993 (yes I'm old)... I recently become reacquainted with it. I appreciate it more now. It's a fresh frag but it has sweet woody dry-down that is just fantastic for day wear. A classic!

Use this on a summer day during a vacation? maybe. If I had to give one of my frags up this would be the first to go, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it at all...

Warm and inviting. A frag that will soothe on a cold night. Different but not for the sake of it - the basics are right. This doesn't last as much on me as A*men but it is not as challenging either. This juice could be the (illegitimate) grandson of Paco Rabanne or Azzaro. I know there are no obvious connections but it is more how men's fragrances have evolved.

Initially I thought "insect repellent". Then it occurred to me that I'm not being fair so on subsequent application I tried to understand the fragrance. The opening is fresh but not sweet or aquatic (good). The dry-down ... "insect repellent".

Starts off in a sweet red-lolly kind of way. Darkens in the dry down and it takes a more masculine character. Reminds me of the original Joop but not as cloying.

A modernised version of the 1973 classic.
This is the way to do subtle & fresh but still support some warmth and character during the drydown.
A fave for sure, especially during the warmer months...

"Horses for Courses": This is an ideal scent for the warmer months or for the office. Clean and crisp, remains nice and fresh - but close to the skin during the dry-down.

Paco was my first exposure to the subtle world of fragrances back in the early eighties. It was defining, opened up a whole new world.
Sure, it's not how they do men's product today but I find it to be a very sophisticated fragrance, timeless!