Reviews

Reviews by jathanas

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parfums*PARFUMS Series 4 Cologne: Vettiveru by Comme des Garçons

Here downunder we're in the warmer months of the year. It's beautiful to wake up to a fresh morning and cycle along Melbourne's Yarra river in order to get to work. The sun is up but not burning yet, and everything just seems alive.

Once I get to the office I shower before getting ready for my day. That's the time where I enjoy wearing & testing the few bottles and decants that I have in the office. I've owned a splash bottle of Vettiveru for over a year now and it is ideal for the warmer months. Firstly, I must admit that I love a splash bottle of cologne. It's bracing and rejuvenating, a completely different experience to the spray.

What surprises me about Vettiveru is its depth and complexity. I'm not a fan of rooty vetivers but this is blended masterfully. The citrus sharpens the opening, whilst a hint of neroli softens the heart. It's the vetiver though that owns center stage from start to finish, without ever getting swampy. Truth in advertising then.

Vettiveru is proof that niche perfumery can be accessible, reasonably priced, and very easy to enjoy. Love it!
27th January, 2011

Bravado 2 by Baxter of California

This one is a pleasant surprise to me.

It has a similar character to Kurkdjan's Aqua Universalis. Smooth citrus opening leading to a sweet heart of soft vanilla and musk.

It lasts well and evolves nicely. Thumbs up

08th December, 2010

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro

Pay no attention to critics of Azzaro pour Homme, especially the voices that proclaim it dated.

A famous designer once stated that "fashion passes, style remains". This holds true for this timeless honeyed blend of lavender and anise over a base of leather and amber.

If this designer classic was a niche release people would gladly pay 4 times its current retail price. Hell I might start wearing this gem more frequently just to piss the Tommy crowd off :)

16th November, 2009

French Lover / Bois d'Orage by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

As others have stated it has a green character. There are spices and angelica over a base of woods, incense, and vetiver. Well made and well behaved, but ultimately I already own a number of scents in this category that I prefer over this.
15th September, 2009

Carnal Flower by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Yesterday I went to a local store that sells niche perfume lines with the aim of buying my wife an anniversary present. We married in our early twenties, and 16 years on we can afford to splurge on each other as life has been good to us.

I tried out quite a few from Lutens, CdG, and Malle. I was all a bit ho-hum until I took a whiff of Carnal Flower. It rocked my world! This is just an amazing floral; one can only admire the quality and artistry of Carnal Flower. I get tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom on a base of white musk. Identifying the notes is an intellectual exercise but with Carnal Flower it's just as important to simply state: "This smells amazing!".

I was moved because through Carnal Flower I learned that beauty goes beyond gender.
14th September, 2009

Armand Basi in Blue by Armand Basi

I can't give it a thumbs down as I've smelled much worse. Freash clean opening over a generic woodsy base.

No where near as beautiful as Armand Bassi in Red.
11th September, 2009

Armand Basi in Red by Armand Basi

This is an impressive fragrance suitable for all occassions.

The citrus opening notes are zesty and fresh without seeming synthetic or sharp. The heart is floral but never too sweet or indolic, resting on a base of clean woods and muscs. I purchased this for my wife prior to becoming a basenoter but I can still see the charm in this underrated beauty.

Longevity is great, thums up.
11th September, 2009

Calvin Klein Man by Calvin Klein

The first minute or so the impression is OK. A cool spicy accord gave me hope that this was going somewhere.

The fun stopped abruptly when I got a whiff of a cheap accord that just smelled off.

I try to give every fragrance a fair go, this however is a scrubber.
24th August, 2009

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Reviewers criticising L'Eau d'Hiver are missing the achievement here.

This fragrance manages to be fresh but warm, formal but relaxed. It is a soft unisex fragrance, which I would describe as powdery (iris), floral (hawthorn, jasmine), and sweet (honey).

I don't wear it often but it is interesting, unique, and classy!



06th August, 2009

Ambre Russe by Parfum d'Empire

I can't get over the boozy opening. It is certainly a unique way to introduce amber. Ambre Sultan uses spice, Ambre Precieux uses woods, and Blue Amber sweetens it further with vanilla, and I can enjoy all of them. This ambre however I can only appreciate not love. Neutral for originality.
30th July, 2009

Eau Neuve (original) by Lubin

2007 Reissue

It opens with a crisp citrus accord, it really is zesty! Not too sharp for me but others might be challenged. The lemon, orange, and bergamot are very well blended, in a way that lets the wearer detect each accord but without any dominating.

As it transcends to the heart I get lavender and chamomile. This is the first time I've ever detected a chamomile accord in a fragrance and it works! Again, I must mention that the blending is masterful.

The dry-down is a combination of oakmoss, wood, and musk, It isn't very long lived but I get 4 - 6 hours with liberal application. The journey however is fantastic.

Together with GFT and Colonia Assoluta, L'Eau Neuve now stands head and shoulders above the rest of my citrus frags. It is classic but modern and never becomes animalic (which was my major gripe with Eau Sauvage). This is a complex composition that I believe would be a nice addition to any citrus lover's wardrobe.
30th July, 2009

Eau de Cologne by Geo F Trumper

This is reminiscent of PdN's Cologne Sologne and both are beautiful if you are a lover of neroli. True to the name it follows the traditional cologne formula to a "T". As always with Trumper you get a well made product but it wont knock GFT of its pedestal as my "numero uno" from the line.

28th July, 2009

Eau de Santal by Floris

This is not a "toned down" version of Gucci Envy but rather a more refined one.

The sweetness of the heart is beautifully balanced by the peppery spice. Masterfully balanced this one is for the self assured gentleman who feels no need to scream.

23rd July, 2009

New York by Nicolaï

Smooth. Classy. Masculine. Sweet. Spicy. Oriental. Classic.
21st July, 2009

Green Valley by Creed

It is true that there are similarities with Green Irish Tweed.

Green Valley shares the citrus of the opening as well as a green violet leave accord of the heart. The differences exist in the mint and ginger that exist in Green Valley, which lighten the overall character and make it less earthy.

A quality fragrance which is ideal for day wear or warm weather.
21st July, 2009

GFT by Geo F Trumper

My love affair with colognes continues and GFT offers one of the most bracing citrus openings you'll encounter. The transition to the cypress and lavender heart takes place while the citrus still exists, very smoothly blended, the cypress doesn't dominate. The cedar base follows and the overall experience is fresh and clean without any calone; a winner then!

Longevity is above average for this excellent fragrance. Truly versatile GFT will not scare anyone in an office environment, but is also suitable for any occasion where one requires understated elegance.
21st July, 2009

Mûre et Musc Extrême by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Berries and clean musc. Who would have thought?

L'Artisan have created in Mure et Musc Extreme a fragrance that offers the most natural fruity accords. Truly unique in that the berries here aren't sweet or gourmand; instead they are zesty and crisp.

Ideal for daytime occasions,or the office. Longevity is about 4 hours which is OK as I like to wear something else in the afternoon.
16th May, 2009

Chergui by Serge Lutens Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido

I'm wearing Chergui today for the first time in a while. The question I ask myself is: "How beautiful is this juice?", followed quickly by: "Why aren't I wearing this more frequently?".

Chergui opens with a warm spiced milk, honeyed-tea accord. I get amber and sweet tobacco in spades after a couple of hours. It projects beautifully and more than one would imagine. I got complimented from every lady I met this morning (OK it was only 3), still, this is the only time this has happened to me...

This review is long overdue for what is an amazing oriental!
14th May, 2009

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

Green Irish Tweed is an ideal fragrance to be worn during business hours or for general daytime activities. The opening is very well blended, I can't isolate a lemon note even though it's listed. The violet leaves are what the heart of this fragrance is about and they do provide for a green floral counterpoint against the musky ambergris. The sandalwood is a soothing base. Sillage is magical and the longevity is 4-6 hours on me.

Really, it's a flawless fragrance and Green Irish Tweed is an excellent all-rounder that never fails to invite compliments.

05th May, 2009

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

Habit Rouge EDC

As recently as a few weeks back I had a view of Habit Rouge as a dated classic that I couldn't love. My appreciation for it was purely clinical and based on its well crafted citrus-vanilla-leather implementation.

Today I experienced a Habit Rouge epiphany. I was able to wholly appreciate the sweet citrucy opening and lose myself in its magic. Once it settled, the powdery vanilla accord asserted but it never became cloying; and for the first time I thought that I should wear this sophisticated fragrance more frequently.

I now count myself among the many admirers of this scent!
23rd April, 2009

Oxford & Cambridge by Czech & Speake

Quite simply the most appropriate lavender note I've had the pleasure of sampling. It is a true implementation and once it settles it radiates a soothing lavender accord of real beauty. Linear but in this case that's just fine.

Exquisite and calming.
07th April, 2009

Neroli by Czech & Speake

Neroli. Clean. Fresh. Pure. Invigorating.
03rd April, 2009

Citrus Paradisi by Czech & Speake

I prefer my citrus frags to be clean and fresh, this carried a bit more funk than I'm comfy with in the opening. It gets better as it evolves but I can't get over the dirt...
03rd April, 2009

Allure Homme by Chanel

Chanel Allure Homme is a good candidate for an all-occasion fragrance.

It opens up with smooth citrus accords and moves to a very slightly peppery heart before the vanilla / tonka take over. It is a soft, sweet oriental. There are propably another 63,000 fragrances that do this but Allure Homme does it damn well!

31st March, 2009

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer

This stuff is hugely overrated!
I bought a bottle based on the glowing reviews of LAdDM and boy was I in for a surprise! Tauer seems to have a common base for all his products and it just doesn't work for me, too harsh. That's not to say that I liked the topnotes either all I get is incense and... a turpentine like accord which others might call citrus. Not for me.
27th March, 2009

Hilfiger Est. 1985 by Tommy Hilfiger

Bland washed-out opening leading to an underwhelming base. Not worthy of much comment, what were they thinking?
26th March, 2009

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Chanel

Chanel Pour Monsieur is an eloguent, uplifting classic in the citrus chypre mould.

Each phase of its development offers something special. The zest of the citrus in the opening, the spicy heart, and the cedar-oakmoss base are blended immaculately. This fragrance is a perfect example of its kind and its appeal is timeless.

Two thumbs up for this legendary juice!
17th March, 2009

Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie

Paestum Rose is a stunning application of rose. In my collection it complements Aqua di Parma perfectly. Where Aqua di Parma is bright, summery, and almost ethereal Paestum Rose is dark, mysterious, and dangerous.
It starts off with woodsy incense, where the rose is present but not dominant. The floral heart is beautifully balanced with fruity accords. That's what I get for hours on application and it is just so eloguent.
An absolute gem of a scent, thumbs up for a 5 star fragrance.
15th March, 2009

Eau Lente by Diptyque

The respected reviewers before me describe Eau Lente perfectly. As always Vibert and Foetidus articulate the development in far greater detail than I can manage. In a nutshell - you get clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon, on a oppoponax base; masterfully blended.
What I can add is that there is nothing in my collection like Eau Lente, not even close. This is an important fragrance.
07th March, 2009

Idole de Lubin by Lubin

Is this the tackiest bottle in the world? Strong contender for sure...

Idole de Lubin is a marvel created by no less than the stunning Olivia Giacobetti. Her work prior to this was about whispers, pale colours, and instants. I for one am delighted she decided to embrace a different approach for Idole.

The opening gives me booze, spice, and saffron; the brightest saffron accord. A subtle citrus manages to round out the experience and provide an overall balance so it never becomes too vibrant in any way. The heart is full of warmth, sweet and spicy; one might detect cumin. If one could match textures to a fragrance I'd nominate syrup to this phase of its development.

This gem continues to shine in the dry-down where it becomes a comfort scent. Here I'd match it to velvet. I get a beautiful blend of warm woods and amber; this is 6 hours after application and what an amazing ride it's been!
04th March, 2009