Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Elf

Total Reviews: 158

Explosions d’Emotions : Rappelle-Toi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is my favorite of the entire Explosions d'Emotion series. I do love gardenia, and this is a wonderful take on a flower that has to be imagined entirely by the perfumer. The sichuan pepper makes an unusual partner, and it works. There is a honey note but it's very sheer, never cloying. Incense and musk reveal themselves in the drydown. I didn't pick up on the gin note, which is good, because I don't want to smell like someone splashed their drink on me. Longevity is at least 8 hours, sillage is moderate. This is a cheerful, yet quiet gardenia with a few fun quirks. Really lovely.
31st July, 2017

Explosions d’Emotions : Haute Voltige by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The pomegranate and fir combination is lovely and unexpected. Sadly, it only lasts 5 minutes. Then there is a wan little drydown that smells just like old-fashioned school paste, and within 30 minutes, it's gone forever.... It seems like within the series, this was merely a sketch, or preliminary idea. Others in the series are much, much better.
31st July, 2017

Touaregh by Il Profumo

This one is a freak, but I have not been able to forget it over the years. I keep buying decants of it! It's a soapy, herbal, rosey, waxy, strange creature that morphs every few minutes. At this point, years later, I just have to say I'm smitten....
26th June, 2017
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Angel Musk by I Coloniali

A lovely, so cuddly, cupcakey musk and vanilla scent. Very, very pretty. A guilty pleasure!
26th June, 2017

Epices by Piver

I like bold spices. And I love fresh ginger and freshly grated nutmeg. This has both, and delightful, bold, woody undergirding. Awesome!
26th June, 2017

Carven Le Parfum by Carven

This is a bride's bouquet at a beautiful wedding where everyone is genuinely happy. Clear, solar florals, a soft drydown. Reminds me of the best examples of Korean celadon ceramics.
09th May, 2016

Si Lolita Eau de Minuit by Lolita Lempicka

Less pepper than the original, and a lot more fruit. Kind of a grape/dewberry fruit, but not cloying. A little saffron and spice, a bit more vanillic and warm than the original. I prefer the original, but this amethyst bottle is so much fun, I had to buy it.
01st May, 2016

Les Caprices de Lolita : Caprice Réglisse by Lolita Lempicka

I love licorice fragrances, so of course, I had to find this. It is Lolita Lempicka with the licorice amped up and the other notes tamped down a little. Licorice lovers' dream, licorice loathers' nightmare. You know which team you're on.
01st May, 2016

Alien Essence Absolue by Thierry Mugler

I am a true Alien Fangirl and own just about every version except the leather one. This is my favorite to wear in an everyday manner. It's not as brash as the original, the edges are softened; this alien has learned some Earth manners. It's a beautiful, glowing, ambered version of Alien. Love love love, even though it's not as peculiar as the mothership.
01st May, 2016

Classique Intense by Jean Paul Gaultier

This is wonderful stuff with a sly sense of humor. On first quick sniff, it seems to be another fruity floral like so many other mass markets mehs. But it has quite a few twists and turns that make it fun and quirky. Kurkdjian has a couple such perfumes- Ma Dame is another one with a good sense of fun. Classique Intense has a true solar radiance that is very cheering and energizing. Fruity florals are NOT my thing, but Francis has beguiled me with this one! Great bottle, too!
01st May, 2016

Si Lolita by Lolita Lempicka

I love the peppery goodness of this perfume. It's got pink peppercorn, elemi,and I'm pretty sure there is a chili pepper note as well. Probably lots of other peppers,too, maybe green? At any rate, it's a pepper lover's daily scent: for all the pepper, Si Lolita is quite light and sheer. The florals are soft and subdued, there's some mild spice like a very quiet cinnamon, and the base is fairly generic woods and musk. The opening is the best part, as it can really wake me up in the morning! Lasts several hours, decent sillage.
08th April, 2016

Angel Muse by Thierry Mugler

I own the Taste of Fragrance Angel, which is Angel spiked with dark chocolate. I don't wear it often, but when I have a craving for it, it's a freakin' awesome sillage monster of epic proportions. I think of it as a friendly Kaiju. Angel Muse substitutes a gentle hazelnut milk chocolate for the dark chocolate, and as a result, Angel Muse is more of a wombat than a kaiju. It is absolutely Angel, but relatively soft and cuddly compared to the other flankers. Mugler has used the hazelnut cream note before, and it's lovely. I liked Muse so much more than Angel Sucree', which I thought was actually kind of dull and trashy. Muse has a sense of fun and twisted elegance.
08th April, 2016

Journey Woman by Amouage

This is one lovely perfume! I've been sniffing for a perfect, rich osmanthus and this one definitely works. There is a rich, apricot-laden osmanthus heart with lots of spicy goodness. All the sweetness and honey and fruit does not become cloying, however. The tea and that hint of tobacco keeps it quirky and interesting, and dries out the composition to some extent. It changes while wearing, shifting from the warmer, richer facets to the drier, more pungent aspects, then back again. Longevity is very good, sillage is surprisingly minimal. It's entertaining and intelligent.
21st August, 2014
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Mon Numéro 10 by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Incense, amber, metal, bug spray and blood. It quite overwhelmed my nose! Sadly, this one was a scrubber for me. Weird and distinctly unpleasant, like watching a Clive Barker movie. (apologies to any CB fans out there!)
10th August, 2014

Queen of Hearts by Queen Latifah

Bargain of the Year, 3.4 oz for $9.99! This reminds me very much of Madness by Chopard, but Queen of Hearts is a little rounder and smoother. It's mostly rich fruit notes with incense and patch. It's much more resinous than sweet, and sillage is minimal so I think it's quite office-friendly, which is unusual with incense/patch perfumes. It lasts about 4 hours, longer on clothing. It's the only celebuscent in my collection, and it's much more unusual and well-made than most on the drugstore shelves.
10th August, 2014

Love, don't be shy by By Kilian

This is my Marshmallow Holy Grail. Not cheap and nasty marshmallows. Real ones, made in Italy for Pasqua in all kinds of lovely pastel colors, and rolled in sugar. Those marshmallows. It just is what it is, and if you love it, you'll crave it. If you're not into homemade marshmallows and pillow-topped mattresses and fluffy kittens, don't even bother. For such a softie, it's quite a polarizing perfume. Babies and toddlers go nutty over this one, in my experience, kind of like what happens with Hanae Mori's Butterfly.
28th April, 2012

Mohur by Neela Vermeire

I can't make up my mind on Mohur. I personally do not like it, I can't wear it. It's too powdery a rose and I loathe powdery roses. They remind me of baby wipes. Also, there are so many notes in here, it's like watching a kaleidoscope on super-fast spin! That being said, for those who like complex and powdery rose confections, this is a very unique and interesting perfume. Definitely a try-before-you-buy, but I know some people are going to go crazy for this one.
28th April, 2012

Aedes de Venustas (new) by Aedes de Venustas

Despite its reputation on several blogs, there's nothing violent about this. I give it a thumbs up because the world needs more rhubarb perfumes, and this is a very nice one. The only aspect I don't like is a celery note that wafts in and out, here and there. I can't stand celery, so that is annoying. Other than that, it's a charming, well-constructed green.
28th April, 2012

Mon Numéro 1 by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Mimosa meets Pear. They tap dance, Fred and Ginger-like, into a glorious sunset of white musk and vanilla. What's not to like?
28th April, 2012

Batucada by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is summer fun in a bottle. I really enjoy it as a beachy citrus cologne. But it has some nice twists, including a little bit of a sweaty note, and saltwater, that make it interesting as well as fun. Lasts a few hours.
28th April, 2012

Vetiver Dance by Tauer

I felt pretty neutral about Vetiver Dance when I first tried a sample prior to its release. I adore all things vetiver, but Vetiver Dance was a little complicated for me wrap my head (and nose) around. Then, about a year later, I won a bottle on Andy's holiday giveaway. After wearing it daily for a week in serious southern heat, I can say it's now my favorite vetiver. The intense floral natural of Vetiver Dance makes it unique. It's sweeter than any other vetiver fragrance I can think of. Yet the pepper cuts through the sweetness and adds a quirky counterpoint. The vetiver itself is top-quality, warm, earthy, but without the "raw dirt" facets that can make a vetiver a little too masculine for me. This one is perfect, and I reach for my bottle often!
02nd August, 2010

Replique by Long Lost Perfume

This review is for the Long Lost Perfumes version of Replique. It's a very unique, leathery-mossy-green. It could easily be a contemporary niche scent from one of the quirkier houses. I absolutely love it, though I have a strong penchant for all perfumes green. I highly recommend this for fellow green-freaks!
02nd August, 2010

Casaque by Long Lost Perfume

I'm reviewing the Long Lost Perfume version. This is a lush, big and bold white floral. It's very retro, and a lot of fun in the summertime.
02nd August, 2010

Bakir by Long Lost Perfume

I wasn't too thrilled about this the first time I tried it, because I was still in my aldehydophobic phase. That phase has thankfully ended and I'm now enjoying many vintage perfumes. Bakir from Irma Shorell (Long Lost Perfumes) is one of my favorites. It's a spicy oriental with a lovely, warm drydown. Reminds me a lot of Noir Epices, actually. Simply gorgeous, especially for autumn evenings.
02nd August, 2010

Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve

I bought the Long Lost Perfume version (Irma Shorell), called Cannes. I really enjoy it. It's a green chypre, but rather light and delicate, actually, with a soft leather drydown. Very subtle and elegant.
02nd August, 2010

Amaranthine by Penhaligon's

I'm a Florida girl, and have great love for jasmine, ylang ylang, and tooth-achingly sweet milk desserts (tres leches, anyone??). And of course, if you live in South Florida, you gotta love the sweat. And amaranthine is full of all these things, so it's just love, pure and simple.
22nd May, 2010

Ambre 114 by Histoires de Parfums

This is everything I wanted Prada's Eau d'Ambree to be. It's a light, not overly sweet, charming, quirky amber. Definitely unisex, the herbal notes and geranium add a piquancy to the traditional amber. Really a lovely find!
26th November, 2009

Rose Perfume by Irma Shorell

A strongly aldehydic, old-fashioned rose, made with quality ingredients. Not my style, but fun.
20th November, 2009

Escale à Portofino by Christian Dior

This smells exactly like the lemon cologne used on buses in Asia Minor that helps the passengers smell nice and feel refreshed in the morning. It's lovely on those buses, but to pay $100 for it just because Dior slapped its label on it is a travesty. For shame, Dior!
13th August, 2009

Maderas de Oriente by Madini

This gorgeous fragrance reminds me very much of Caron's impossible to find Coup de Fouet and Poivre, though it is not at all a copy. Rich, clovey, woody bliss. I love it!
04th May, 2009