I was a bit confused by the whole Atelier Cologne line. Traditional cologne-style fragrances that come in EDP concentrations? It sounded a little reminiscent of Hermes' Concentre du Orange Verte, which upped the concentration (and subtly altered) the Eau.
I have to say that while the Atelier is nice, it fades quickly. The initial burst of orange is as close as you will come to that sublime moment when you plunge your thumbs into an orange in order to peel it - and the orange zest sprays its essential oils into the air. Very nice. But then the cologne starts to fall apart. There is a hint of jasmine and geranium in the heart, along with some tonka and woods in the base - but they are muted and grey and don't serve to accentuate the orange.
At the price, I'm going to stick with the Hermes.
There have been a lot of very good reviews of Jicky here. I just want to add two things. First, the different strengths of Jicky vary widely in their feel and are very nice layered together. The extrait is dense, citrusy, and has more prominent civet. It also develops beautifully on the skin. The PDT is a bit harsh for my taste, but dries down very nicely. The EDT has an abundance of lavender that makes it vaguely sweeter, but I'm not impressed by the staying power. I haven't sampled the EDC in a while, but my recollection was that it resembled the EDT. If you are considering purchasing Jicky, I would urge you to smell the different formulations and pick the one that suits you. (Personally, I love the extrait)
Second, this scent smells wonderful on both men and women - it has a slightly "naughty" feel too it (probably the civet) but is perfectly suited to almost any occasion. You can't go wrong with Jicky, it is one of the few scents I would wear day or night, formal or casual, intimate or buttoned down - basically any time at all.
When I first wore Heritage, my wife (who is not a perfumista) asked me if I was wearing Shalimar. And there are many family similarities between the two - primarily the deep ambery vanilla anchoring the fragrances. Heritage fills out its structure with warm spices and resinous woods. I also notice a resemblance to Caron's Third Man in the deep woody ambery feel - but Heritage is a bit more subtle and a little deeper.
A very interesting fresh chypre - lots of jasmine and iris in the heart notes, with just a touch of oakmoss for astringency. It dries down to a floral musk. For some reason, this smells both old and surprisingly new to me. It smells a little old fashioned because of the beautiful florals - but the freshness of the oakmoss keeps it from becoming too cloying. Very sophisticated, very complex, and a wonderful fragrance.
I purchased HM EDP unsniffed because of a recommendation from a colleague. I ordered it with high hopes - and my initial reaction upon my first spritz was "Wow." This is a powerhouse gourmand, swirling with chocolate, lemon, vanilla, lavender... I enjoyed it immensely the first few times I wore it. This fragrance has truly legendary lasting power. I have one sweater which picked up the scent from one wearing, and it was still detectable when I put the sweater on - two weeks later. Unfortunately, I discovered that after eight hours, this scent turned rather sour on me. I'm not sure whether it was a combination of the basenotes or my personal chemistry. Just make sure to be conservative when you spray.
Sublime is one of my favorite fragrances. It is classified as an oriental, but it has sparkle and brightness that is missing in many products in this category. Sublime is very long lasting, staying with me the entire work day, and still detectable on the skin the next morning. It is marketed as a feminine, but it can be easily worn by a man with a taste for fine fragrances. This one is truly marvelous!