Incense Oud starts with pepper, followed by the smell of fresh rose petals sprinkled with dew. Incense appears almost simultaneously followed by woody notes that give the illusion of oud, albeit a very soft one. In spite of its name, oud is not a note in Incense Oud. The stars of this perfume are Incense and Rose. Other than pepper at the beginning, the rose and incense, I cannot discern the rest of the notes, the woody notes stay in the background only to enhance and adorn the incense/rose combination. The simplest way to describe it is as a very natural rose water with incense. I would like to say that it is transparent, but that may be misinterpreted as being unsubstantial. It has great projection and sillage, but it is not thick or oerwhelimng. It lasts on me about 10 hours.
Incense Oud gives me a peaceful feeling. Although there are many incense perfumes in the market and I love many of them, I cannot think of any other perfume as an alternative. It seems so simple and yet so elegant and wearable. This is not a churchy incense, it is cool but not cold or dry. It makes me think of holy water, but more in the sense that it gives me a feeling of purity and clarity of mind.
This perfume is very versatile. I wear it to the office and I have worn it to more formal occassions, also it seems to work well in all kinds of weather, although I prefer it in cooler days.
This is a creation of Sidonie Lancesseur, who in my opinion does not get the credit or publicity she deserves for her beautiful perfumes that include Cruel Intentions and Straight to Heaven.
The formula is not listed in the by Kilian website, but the notes courtesy of Luckyscent are: Guatemala cardamon, pink pepper, Turkish rose, Egyptian geranium, methyl pamplemousse, Virginia cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli, Indian papyrus, Somalia incense (oil and absolute), sandalwood, Macedonian oakmoss, Spanish cistus labdanum, musks.
I find the opening of Labdanum and Frankincense soft and inviting. This does not smell like a church fragrance (although I like those very much too). The benzoin soon joins and then spices. Although not listed, I smell something like cinnamon. This fragrance is warm and cozy. I am finding it very comforting. I cannot smell the tuberose or tobacco, just a little bit of rose.
This is definitely full bottle worthy. It seems well balanced, it is not too spicy, too incensy or too sweet. It has good longevity considering this is an all natural perfume. I asked Profumo once about longevity in natural fragrances and he told me that the secret was in the oils used, how they were blended, and the proportions (I am paraphrasing here).
Asha in the forums mentioned a creamy woody aspect. I smelled that too and I made a comparison to Egoiste with a side by side comparison to confirm this. I tried it also next to Hindu Kush. Hindu Kush is much drier. I like Hindu Kush when I need something dry. I prefer to have a little bit of sweetness and I find enough sweetness here to make it very comforting.
I love the opening. It smells like spicy wine, or some sort of cyder, although I don't believe it has any apple. I think all Frapin fragrances are very carefully made, well blended, with quality ingredients.
The notes are (courtesy of Luckyscent): exotic woods, spice, raisin, vine flowers, pepper, candied orange, nut, hazelnut, prune, cocoa, coffee, leather, woods, white honey, vanilla.
What troubles me a bit is the drydown, it seems a bit unremarkable to me as I was expecting to smell more leather, cocoa or coffee, but I relly cannot detect any of them except for woods, honey, and vanilla. I wished I could extend the top notes. However, I have to say that my sample does not have a sprayer, perhaps that makes a difference in the drydown.
This perfume is well worth a try, since the top and heart notes are so beautiful and different from anything else I have smelled. This is a little bit gourmand, a little bit flowery, a little bit fruity, a little bit spicy, all in perfect balance. I am glad that I have tried this several nights this week, so I have time to think about the notes and my perception of them.
While going through my dad's colognes I came across an old Egoiste stick deodorant. It was almost dry when I opened it. It smell so good that I tried it on my skin. I was surprised how lovely it smelled on me. Then I went to various sites to read reviews. I found one that compared Egoiste to Bois des Iles. I got a sample of Bois des Iles and found it too sweet, then I bought a mini of Egoiste to try it. I have worn it every day for the last week and have received many compliments, especially from men. I looked through my dad's things some more hoping that he had a bottle of EDT. Since he had a deodorant I knew he had to have the EDT. He must have finished it, because to my disappointment, he only had an almost new bottle of Platinum, which I don't think a woman could ever wear. I don't remember my dad smelling like Egoiste, I remember him wearing Allure and several Cartier colognes. I broke down and I am giving myself a 3.4oz of the EDT for Christmas.