Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by pasha

Showing all 85 reviews

Vetiver by Guerlain

Even if you hate it in the beginning, Vetiver tends to win you over in time.

There is no self-respecting man enjoying fragrances who has not tested this bold statement from Guerlain. It is inevitable. It is such a powerhouse fragrance, such a name, such an establishment, even if one hates the scent, he must respect what it stands for: Vetiver is a scent created for the perfect gentleman, and a perfect gentleman is the man who wear it with confidence.

It is a mystery to me, because some days, it smells really wet, but other times, it smells really dry. Very very green, Vetiver is what is is named after: vetiver note on every aspect of the scent from top to bottom, but enriched with different notes at the different stages of its lifespan on your skin. It is decidedly green, and slightly dirty even, but also really really fresh. I feel like this scent alone has inspired many other summer-y fresh scents like the Issey Miyake line, because it is a very bold testament to every green note possible. The other thing I must say though: within all its rawness, it is still a very delicate, transparent, and elegant scent.

Opening is nutmeg, bergamot, neroli and lemon, orange, coriander and tobacco. It is decadent, and slightly sharp. Call me crazy, but there is a very soap-y feeling to this opening to my nose, I don't know why. It can be slightly nauseating in the beginning: all that green with all that Vitamin C, but that phase passes rather fast. Orris root, vetiver, sage grass, pepper and sandalwood at the core of the scent makes it very green and very bold. Now, this is the part that causes the debate- if you'll like it, you'll love it, if you cannot stand it, then you will never touch this scent again. The carnation note evens the greenness of the scent a bit, but still, it smells very natural; pastoral even.

The most legendary part of Vetiver is its drydown though: the smooth transition from all that foliage to civet, tonka bean, moss, leather, amber, and myrrh is done exceptionally well. Vetiver actually smells amber-y to me within all its greenness, that is why there is a clash of warm and cool I feel. It is a unique experience, because still to this day, I am still rediscovering more about this scent, and cannot seem to complete my journey with it. For instance, everybody keeps saying that this is a perfect scent for daywear during summer, but I feel like it works best on me during winters at night. Under the summer sun, it becomes too much; suffocating even. But with cooler temperatures, it is simply a force radiating charisma.

I really like Vetiver, but it can never be a blind-buy. Try it once, and see how it will work for you. I feel like Vetiver knows no age or race. It is particularly masculine, and very very elegant all the way.
14 August 2009

Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari

A great, warm, well-behaved, classic mens scent that I did, and will continue to, cherish for many years.

I think this is a very warm scent for some reason, though it is not heavy at all. Quite fresh in its opening, it has that mysterious chemical Aldehydes note dominating it. Heavily. Also apparent are some citrus accord, nutmeg, lavender and tea as usual. Tea is what holds all Bulgari scents together, and this one is no exception. It is warm and green, but in a very refreshing way. Its base is also quite masculine, including everything from musk, amber, vetiver, cedar, moss and tonka bean. Now that is pretty ordinary, redundant even, but what makes the scent amazing is all the sets of flower combo in the mid-notes which is nothing short of spectacular. Moving on from the fresh opening, the scent combines tea with many flowers including black currant and orange blossoms, cyclamen, iris and carnations, and spicing the mix with pepper and coriander, and rosewood, perhaps to cut the femininity of the flowers.

The result is quite magnetic. Will work surprisingly well on any weather or climate. The scent is sexy, musky, and dry, but the flowers are all handled so well, that on every skin, they bring out some other rich quality. This is a type of cologne that will remain close to the skin, and will change itself and adapt to your skin chemistry. Though I cannot imagine any type of horrible disaster with anyone skin chemistry since the scent does not include anything offensive.

That's why this fragrance is quite well-behaved. Longevity, unfortunately, leaves much to be desired, though the bottle is incredibly elegant. It is such a gentleman-ly scent. I wish it did not require reapplication quite so often.
14 August 2009

Opium pour Homme Eau d'Orient by Yves Saint Laurent

When a friend had asked me what I taught about Opium pour Homme, I was a little hesitant to answer, because I did not want anyone else to discover and steal this magnificent and elegant elixir from me.

But I was honest, and said I would buy any Opium scent that there is, without giving it a second thought. But then I questioned that statement, was I right? If YSL would release a hideously watered down lemony 'summer' or 'sport' edition of this great scent (which btw YSL is notorious of doing, as we all know), would I still buy it and betray this great cologne's originality, and myself of that matter? The answer would be no, of course.

When I learned that there was a second edition to this fragrance, I decided to come on the basenotes boards and read the reviews of the experienced noses. And I was very pleased to read the reviews I must say: they were all favorable. So I did a blind buy and boy am I happy with my decision! This fragrance is heaven: a great version of the great Opium pour Homme. I cannot say which one I prefer more, because both of them are equally magnificent. Opium pour Homme himself is known to be a dark Oriental, but I must admit this fits into that category a little better almost. This has a different, yet modern spiciness to it, and that creates another layer. The opening is slightly different as well, because of the injection of the bright grapefruit note.

I will say this, this is not necessarily a summer rendition as we know, or are accustomed to, by the other and more generic summer, or secondary, releases of heavy fragrances. This is slightly less 'dark' because of the citrus-y opening chord and a somewhat more woodsy base. That being said, this is a perfect edition, so good in fact, I am sure it will be a staple in my wardrobe just as Opium pour Homme has been for all this time.

To me, this is a perfect, and very masculine scent, because not only is it multi-layered, but also very rich in detail. It is not flat: it gets very warm and delicious on your skin. I cannot imagine any skin chemistry that could manage to bring out something nasty from this scent. It lasts for a very long time, which is always a plus for men. The bottle is identical to the original, only the juice is lighter, and there is a chic print of an Opium branch in purple, on the glass surface. (I also saw some other ones with a bamboo print instead, but I imagine both bottles contain the same scent) It looks very elegant.

Feels very Parisian. Modern yet decadent at the same time. I imagine this is the fragrance of an adventurer, or a dweller, who could also easily go the opera, or some chic Downtown club wearing this. Like its older brother, this is a type of frag that has at least two personalities, and all these personalities are very soignee and seductive at the same time.

From the first second that it comes out of its gorgeous bottle to the point that it departs from your skin, this fragrance will captivate you like no other.
14 August 2009

Kelly Calèche by Hermès

Screams distance and social-class. Very blond, and in control. You know the type: pulled-back Aryan blond hair, high arch eyebrows, insanely expensive black dress and yellow pearls by day, big diamonds by night... a severe elegance, innate arrogance and snobbery in her blood by the birth-right.

Then again; kinky in the bedroom when the servants can't hear. How can you not love her?

Even though I painted a very 'vivid' picture of the woman who will wear this, I kind of think this might work on the right man quite effectively as well. One who likes to experiment through his boredom in wealth. This one is truly an Hermes scent.
14 August 2009

Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

Bought it to own the stunning bottle, and it so happens I love the scent just as much as its sculpture of a container.

Oh shoot me... I am a guy, and I love Jasmin Noir. I love closing my eyes, and falling asleep at night in this, and waking up next day with its divine stench lingering on my black satin sheets. It makes my day brighter. Or I simply wear it with a heavily starched white shirt, and walk the streets of NY with the soft wind in my hair.

Jasmin Noir is immaculate.
14 August 2009

Versace Man by Versace

This scent asks for one thing only, and that is SEX.

And I am not talking about some sensual and meaningful sex either: it is a no BS and fast paced one-night stand actually. I have never experienced anything quite as shameless as Versace Man for its direct and unapologetic attitude towards the subject. It simply dares to be noticed. Since it does possess this edge, this may be by far the one scent that gathered the most amount of compliments throughout the time I did use it. It is simply a masterpiece in terms of awakening others' response, and a true gem that resembles no other commercial release that I have seen.

Yet within all the 'SEX' I mention, it also has a very dramatic feeling to it. It is not cheap. I read somewhere that it was created for a 'temperamental man', and that is true. The guy wearing this likes to live life big: big emotions, big loves, big thoughts; big highs, crucial lows. The top notes include neroli, bergamot and angelica. Now that is very ordinary actually, especially for am Italian brand to open notes with citruses, but angelica note sets it apart from any other generic citrus openings. From the get-go, it is sizzling. And then you move to heart notes rather quickly which are composed of saffron and cardamom. It is indeed spicy, and warm, though still quite clean I must admit.

Versace scents are mostly synthetic, but they are also always very well-thought out. Almost like complex equations of loud notes. These fragrances last very long on the skin, but tend to leave a very masculine note at the end that lingers on you until the day is out. And mostly that final note is a rich and suave tobacco, and in the case of Versace Man, the composition is no different. The base is quite amber-y with tobacco, and casmir (an Eastern wood). I also read that labdanum, the flower is also included here, but my nose is not that well-trained.

I know people have reservations about being too 'synthetic', but there is 'cheap synthetic', and there is 'clean and suave synthetic'. This falls into the second category. It is not as obnoxious as Dolce&Gabbana Man, or as gender-mixed as Prada Amber Pour Homme. In fact, this has much more amber than the latter one. But these three are successful synthetic scents no matter what anyone says, and Versace Man is the most successful of all three.

Many compliments, many good memories.
14 August 2009

Versace l'Homme by Versace

Quite remarkable, but it doesn't work on me as well as it could have I feel. Still, I enjoy the scent. Cannot really stomach the first minute of the opening - too lush and supple in its greenness for my taste- but after about 3 minutes, it does smell like heaven. Masculine, yet fragile. Metallic, yet familiar. Sour, but also really fresh.

I like Versace L'Homme as a scent, but I feel like I am the wrong canvas for the cologne to unravel all its mysteries and magic through. More suitable for winter, even though it is quite green which is usually associated with summer. Great silliage, and exemplary longevity. And it still doesn't come off as dated, after all these years since its creation, and long-term popularity.

Try it: you will not regret the experience.
14 August 2009

Rush for Men by Gucci

I cannot believe to read all these negative reviews here: this fragrance is just perfection. So dry, yet so pleasant, incredibly sexy. I cannot count how many compliments I have received from wearing this. It is like the perfect aphrodisiac.

The most obvious note here is the cedarwood, which is nothing short of sublime. It is very very well-handled, and instead of balancing it with some flower or vanilla, they add even more wood layers on it, which makes the scent very ballsy. That is what I love about it, it goes all the way to the end with its woodsy/dry identity. The lavender, which I detect, is just there for fun, because it does not do anything for the fragrance other than the first spray of application.

I love this fragrance, so many good memories. Though, it is getting harder and harder to find it, I think it is being discontinued. gucci.com doesn't even list it anymore.. Such a loss if you ask me. It is hard to find a modern one note-type fragrance that smells sexy and young, yet light but complicated all at once, and to me that is what Rush has always been.

The bottle, which everybody hates, I absolutely love. It is a white block, very minimalistic, something that would come out from Japan if I didn't know it to be Gucci. It does look like a Apple computer gadget though: I'll give you that. I loved the advertising, and the feminine versions (Rush, Rush 2 for Woman) as well. They are seductive as this one, yet as well as any other Gucci release, became a little too popular for their own good.

One final note, the Rush series from Gucci were marketed towards a younger crowd when they first came out unlike Gucci pour Homme, or Gucci Eau de Parfum. Hence the plastic toy-like bottles, cheaper price tags, and bright colors. They were Gucci's answer to all the mindless and endless creations and releases from Emporio Armani. (Remember he/she, White he/she etc.) Marketed for a younger crowd, these scents attracted many young people to these brands who later became loyal customers after 5 or 6 years while getting a little older. That is why Rush doesn't feel as timeless as let's say Envy or pour Homme, because I suppose it was never meant to be.
14 August 2009

Rush by Gucci

It is red, it is loud, it is affective, and ultimately it makes sense.

Rush is wonderful. Unique, long-lasting... both the scent and the impression it leaves.

It was not love at first sight -or sniff, in this case- yet I have built up my love, little by little over time for this somewhat unusual scent. It is medicinal in the first spray: sensual yet metallic through its progression. Then all of sudden, it betrays the loud opening with a very sensual and almost creamy base that is really overloaded with heavy vanilla, tempered vetiver, and wet patchouli.

Thumbs up from me, even though I clearly can see that this is a very specific scent, and not everyone will fall in love with it instantly... if ever.



PS: I love the bottle, but I wish it were a little heavier in my hand. It would make the experience a bit more luxurious and special.
14 August 2009

Céline Collection Pastel by Céline

Dry and sour pink flowers tempered with rain water and a bit of lemon. Light, pink, and fluid.

Nothing extraordinary, but comfortable and quite summer-y. Neither too this, nor that.
14 August 2009

Crystal Noir by Versace

Crystal Noir is dark and rich with textures and it is alive and poised. Elegant, yet somewhat naughty at the same time. It is not only dark, but original and dangerous.

It's power comes from the subtlety of the notes, and how they transform over the time. It is most certainly an evening fragrance, to dinner, and definitely to the bed later that night. It is kind of irresistible actually. The gardenia note is very apparent from the get-go. Although one would expect the scent to be very white-floral because of it, the heavy amber and musk notes at the base of the scent takes it to a very rich and darker caliber, and that's what makes it truly intoxicating to me. A well-balanced floral accord, enriched with a much lighter fruity blend (it feels like something tropical, or maybe figs??) arriving to the rich base - the base, that is heavy enough to carry all the white flowers at the top.

Lovely.

It feels slightly synthetic, but in a good way, like Gucci Eau de Parfum or Prada. In fact, I think this is Versace's answer to Gucci Eau de Parfum, since both were definitely created for the same woman. I feel if Versace had promoted its fragrances as well as Gucci, D&G or Chanel always do, this could easily be among the great and most popular dark florals out there. Yet I guess all is well, since not that many people know about it and that makes it more special. I am a guy, and along with Black Orchid, I wear this as well. Not too much though, sparingly... It feels nice on my skin: I especially enjoy the amber notes on me. Sometimes, I layer it with some Guerlain Vetiver, or a little bit of Gucci Pour Homme, and it instantly becomes a dark and dry masculine scent. So many compliments from both sexes, because it just feels sexy.

Finally, I still remember the great advertising for this fragrance with the model Isabeli Fontana lying on the floor with two male models looking quite dazed because of the smell I assume. I get the concept, because this scent makes me feel like that as well. It is multifaceted and sparkling like its name. And it is, by far, the greatest, chicest, and most dangerous looking fragrance bottle I have ever seen in my life.

I wish it were truly cut-crystal from the cap to the bottle itself. (the cap is plastic) Then it would be a true piece of sculptural art.

14 August 2009

Black Cashmere by Donna Karan

It is an experience.

Save it for winter, and apply it to a white cashmere scarf, and then inhale the intoxicating spicy blend when it is cold and raining. Men can also wear it... quite easily. Will not buy it again, but I am glad that I could manage to own a bottle.
14 August 2009

Blu Notte pour Homme by Bulgari

I usually love with what Bulgari does with their fragrances. I don't even remember one scent I tested from Bulgari that I completely detested. But I must say, I think Blv Notte Pour Homme is one of the company's most daring creations for men to date.

It has a powdery feeling to it, first of all. But it is rich and creamy, not headache-including. It is a happy scent in its opening, very sexy in a healthy, sparkling way. It lingers on the skin quite a while before it gets warm and powdery, and then you experience the chocolate note. I don't get the baby-wipes, even though it is rather clean, I tend to get a less-synthetic, more natural sweetness from it. I call it 'daring', because even though it is masculine, I think on the right woman, it can also be a magic. And that's what is great about the scent: it is most certainly created for the creatures of the night, rather than the people on the go. And that's why I find the notes to be also seducing and almost tiring after a while, but on the good side. Plus, chocolate mixed with a healthy dose of tobacco always brings out something slightly lazy, but also tender and sublime.

I wish it could last a little longer on my skin, but that is my problem with all Bulgari creations. The first day I wore it, 5 compliments from women, 4 of them on the street in Manhattan, people I do not know by the way. A friend of mine, a guy, told me that it was too sweet (because of the ginger/chocolate blend which stays on the skin as base notes) in a rather envious way I assume, but he was wearing Cartier Declaration, so his taste is obviously questionable. A must try before buying, and I must say this can never be a scent that I would wear exclusively for a couple of days (I am quite promiscuous about my frags), but it makes me always happy whenever I reach for it.



EDIT:

The problem is perhaps me, who happens to be to be way too spoiled with choice and promiscuity in terms of beautiful fragrances and colognes, but now I am kind of bored with Blv Notte. Now it smells plastic-y and banal, and I do not get that clean euphoric feeling anymore - the one that I initially experienced while applying this scent. I will use it until I finish it, and then perhaps will never pick it up again.

I feel sorry for the change of heart, but it is not a very timeless creation after all, at least not to me. It just turned cheap.
14 August 2009

White Patchouli by Tom Ford

I have changed my mind about this scent after smelling it on my skin. I thought it smelled awfully dated at first, but now, I get what this scent is about and it is quite interesting actually... Very lush and loud. Slightly sour and sweet at the same time. Tame, but also supple and generous in its travel on your skin. The base may smell too masculine if you are a very feminine-fragrance lover. It is really sexy and boozy at the same time.

I like this, and I daresay I am embarrassed to pass such a harsh judgment before. But this is a strict skin scent that requires experimentation, and the right chemistry. If you have it, it is really elegant and well-behaved and if not, you DO smell like an 80 year old.

The bottle is sublime beyond belief.
08 August 2009

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

I adore this scent. I love everything about it: the opening, how thick and syrupy the scent presents itself, how it sticks on your skin and totally transforms into something unique.

It is an unmistakably heavy scent, and I can detect it anywhere I go when someone wears it. On the elevator, at a club, outside, no matter how crowded the place is, you can always feel if Black Orchid is present. Like I said, it is very thick. That being said, the scent on my skin doesn't remain too sweet, as many people complain about the fragrance. It transforms something quite spicy, and erotic. It is very dark. The black currant note is quite heavy in the opening, and I can also detect some bergamot, which gives it a very very slight citrusy note to my nose. I never had the chance to smell a pure ' black truffle note' as a scent, so I don't know what that smells like in particular, yet that anonymous note that hits my nose along with deep woods and heavy flowers can be the truffle in question, I suppose.

The most gorgeous state of the fragrance is the drydown though, it is almost cruel to the nose. It is so seductive and erotic. I claim there have been few scents that could handle vanilla this well. It settles into something warm, familiar, close to skin, and very hazy. Yes, it is sweet, make no mistake, yet it is a very sophisticated, well-thought-out 'sweet'. It is not 'delicious' like Lolita Lemplicka, Chopard Wish, or that monstrosity called Angel and the masculine versions of all those which I have listed. Black Orchid doesn't smell like food, nor desert.

I love this scent, it is a gorgeous creation from top to finish. I reckon it will always be a part of my fragrance collection. It is not just the fragrance that is unique, it is the whole experience. I feel like the great sultans or princesses of Arabia, or geishas of Japan must have smelt like this. It is an ultimate elixir. In general I love Tom Ford's creations, yet this is the first scent since his unmatched YSL m7 that I have been this excited about. He really shines in creating dark scents with flower-y accords and wood-y accents. Not only the scents, but also the bottles and packaging are also always gorgeous. The Black Orchid bottle, captivating like every fragrance bottle he designed, is maybe on the masculine side, yet also very user friendly. You can carry it anywhere, and it doesn't 'age' with time, look tarnished and all. Being skinny and curved, the bottle looks decadent and very soignee. It is onyx black with a gold plate on top, proclaiming the mysterious name. First I thought 'Black Orchid' was a tacky name, but now I am kind of used to it.

If you want a unique experience, you must test this scent. Whether you like it or not, you WILL have some sort of an opinion about the scent, which makes this a very special creation. It has an identity, and it sparks up discussion, because it is very different. Must test before buying though, unless you are buying it only for the gorgeous bottle, which would still be a justifiable purchase.

08 August 2009

Obsession Night for Men by Calvin Klein

Everybody speaks about the coconut note in this, but there is no coconut note listed in this. They mistake the mellow pear with certain spices in the opening that gives a foreign uniqueness to the first impression. But it is not coconut, trust me.

Everyone also says that this is a very 'commercial' release. However, I suppose when a commercial release is this captivating and satisfying, then there is no problem with being commercially safe. At the end of the day, if a scent smells good, it smells good. No matter how accessible it may be. Obsession Night for Men is just perfection between dark silk sheets under a moonless misty fog.

I am happy that I purchased a big bottle of it, which looks very chic next to his older brother, on my personal fragrance display.



PS: I am very happy that it is called Obsession Night and came in the same iconic Obsession bottle design, because that sublime bottle looks just as good in midnight blue, as it does in clear with amber juice. So suave.
02 July 2009

Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

The opening is a little too wet and dirty, but the drydown is stunning.
20 June 2009

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

A friend of mine (a guy) is obsessed with it, and I must say, it suits him. Not to mention that the scent announces his arrival like 3 minutes before he enters the room, but it is a very heavy, woodsy, dark, and even maybe sexy (he is a guy, and a friend, I don't think I'll ever find him sexy even if he wears Gucci Eau de Parfum). It doesn't transform at all though, it is quite one note. But a good note at that.

TF promotes this scent as an unisex scent though it is quite masculine. And I enjoy women experimenting with mens scents since I do experiment with the women's juices quite frequently. It is not like a girl is going grow a penis by using a men's cologne, right?

Well, in terms of Oud Wood, you actually might.

Tom Ford tries hard to be the new olfactory god of this generation of perfumers and he has released this 'scent library' for everyone who is rich enough to buy. No gender specific. But from the first spray of this 'perfume', there is absolutely no doubt that THIS IS A MENS FRAGRANCE. There is nothing soft, feminine, or even slightly so, sparkling about it. It is quite masculine in every sense. I don't wanna offend any woman who is using this, but let's be realistic: If Samsara, or Shalimar are not men's fragrances, then this cannot be a woman's scent. I know girls who use m7, or even Chanel Pour Monsieur, even those are less gender specific than this.

It is a good cologne, but ladies, beware... It might be a bit too much for you even if you adore it from the first sniff - better test this for the boyfriend if you love the smell so much.
20 June 2009

The One by Dolce & Gabbana

The One reminds me of Casran by Chopard and the latter is a mens scent actually. This is a more subdued, feminine version of that fragrance to my nose. Their powdery base is almost the same only Casran is a bit more bitter and maybe sharp, and slightly heavier on woods and powder.

I am not a fan of Casran: I used a big bottle, but I think it is a strange blend that comes off as either too powdery or too cloudy. But it doesn't smell like anything else. That is its uniqueness and maybe it's only saving grace. On the other hand, The One -being very similar to Casran- is so average and mass-market that it is almost sad. I think the creators tried too hard for this to smell 'youthful' that it ended up smelling a bit on the cheaper side. Musky vanilla blends never smell young. 'The One' is light, and the light aroma in question must be a marketing ploy to attract the young customers. To my nose, the scent comes off as almost too silent to be taken seriously.

Supposedly the scent opens with mandarin, bergamot, litchi and peach, but I do not get any of that fruit basket. Maybe a little citrus, but that is about it. The sweetness of peach and the sharp exotic nature of litchi do not hit my nose at all. Then there is supposed to be some generous floral blend of jasmine, lily of the valley and luscious white lily, but all I get is a tired blend of some random floral sweetness. Maybe if one of those flowers mentioned were a bit more dominant, the scent had a better personality to talk about.

The One is not fruity, nor amber-y. It is a musky skin scent that is heavy on vanilla. I do not enjoy it to be frank. The ad campaign features lovely Gisele Bundchen all geared up in latest skimpy Dolce clothing acting like a spoiled fashion diva - or a brat in this case. It is lame. It is so 90s. The name is another source of utter agony. 'The One'... The one of what exactly? How vile is that?

Dolce&Gabbana is releasing one mediocre creation after the other with much publicized and expensive ad campaigns to paint a picture of faux glam-greatness, but all the brand is offering nowadays is just smoke-and-mirrors and nothing else. This creation and Light Blue for men are both over-hyped scents that are simply boring and redundant in today's already overcrowded market. Instead of trying to imitate the success of Light Blue(for women) by trying to re-work its formula again and again with only slight shifts, I think the label should aim to create one scent that is truly new and unique. Desirable with an unique edge.

And that scent is not this one. It is not 'The One.'
20 June 2009

Noir by Christian Lacroix

I can understand why people would see this as a 'let down.' But it must be appreciated for what it is.

It is a pleasant, spicy, honest scent that is elegant in its simplicity. I am very surprised to see that pepper is not listed as one of its notes, because I kind of get that particular note from this combination, but it's probably just my imagination. Yes, it is not 'noir' at all, I do agree. But there is a likability in this - a sense of freedom almost.

It is light, but not citrus-y. Spicy instead with a light-hand. The cedar, musk and vetiver base is not at all original, I agree, but if you are going to have one or two light mainstream fragrances with respectable longevity that are not edgy rather conventional, Noir can be an excellent choice. The opening is saffron flower, ginger and grapefruit leaves. It is an interesting opening, though familiar. The linear movement of the fragrance is smooth, and not surprising. It is not too bold, but spicy enough to make sense. The heart notes are grassy and dry, but it is not particularly green. There is orris root, cardamom, and they claim there is something else in there called 'cactus pear' note. I do not know what that is, so I cannot really detect it.

It is not uncommon for mainstream fragrance companies to list exotic imaginary notes in fragrances that are not actually in the composition just to seem more exclusive, and even though I don't blame Avon for doing this, this fragrance does not include anything too exotic or unattainable. That is that.

I like this scent, and prefer to wear it in between days when I grow tired of wearing the usual heavy and bold choices, which tend to be more my flare. It creates a nice balance. Plus, it is nice to find a cheaper mainstream light frag that does not heavily rely on citruses, and still smell elegant and expensive. The bottle, though gorgeous in concept, does not look as chic and precious in real life. Still nice; it has that 'Lacroix aesthetic'.

This is a Avon scent though: it is not daring and envelope-pushing as Lacroix fashions. I feel like this is almost like a celeb scent, in which they only used the designer's name, and not particularly his innate personality.
20 June 2009

Ultraviolet Man by Paco Rabanne

By far the cheapest smelling fragrance I ever had the displeasure of testing. It is truly insufferable.

Pick up something better please. Anything else will do.
25 December 2008

Nu Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Is this really a feminine scent?

Wow, on me it smells extremely masculine. Much more masculine than many other scents I own that are marketed for men. I heard that there were a lot of men wearing this, but honestly I thought it was going to be a small compromise on my part and kind of a stretch like Gucci Eau de Parfum, but it really isn't. I generally don't believe in gender in scents, but this one is truly gender-less.

Nu is a nude scent: it is a skin scent, and it is absolutely lovely. I am writing about the EdP version. It is extremely musky and woodsy on its base, and a lot of incense and jasmine at the top. A bit bestial actually. So very musky and combine it vetiver, there you have it. It is not dark, but for some reason it reminds me of Ungaro III and Kingdom. They smell nothing alike, but I image similar people enjoying these scents for some reason.

I really like Nu. It will be a chameleon on different skins though. Quite heady, quite heavy, but I daresay also very sexy for a man.

The bottle of the eau de parfum is perhaps the most beautiful bottle - or container to be more accurate- I have ever seen.

16 November 2008

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana

Way too popular for its own good: at this stage of her life, Light Blue is quite slutty and random.

No spark or lucidity left in its soul. It 'was' pleasant once, but after three of my girlfriends, who are absolutely catty and hate each other tremendously, have used the exact same scent in gross quantities -and guess what the scent was- since they first grew breasts, to me Light Blue has very little left in its reserve to impress me.

God, get a grip: there are so many other designer scents out there ready to be explored. Does Dolce&Gabbana put some secret addictive substance in this bottle? Even the 'Angel' monsters are less adamant than the 'Light Blue' fanatics.

It was a good scent, that is why it is 'neutral.' It is a good feminine woods smell, and those are -or were- hard to come by... once. But not anymore. Make no mistake: this is perhaps the most abused scent of the decade - right up there with Davidoff Cool Water and L`Eau D`Issey. Light Blue is not a scent that will make you stand out in the crowd: it will make you a part of the herd. It will make you 'fit in.' If that is the objective, then you cannot find any other scent that is this flawless.

Enough already.
08 November 2008

Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf

According to the Dana Thomas book 'Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster', "perfume companies buy juices they think are marketable and keep them in reserve until they find the right brand for them." One of such companies was Loreal, and apparently they bought this juice from IFF, sat on it for three whole years until Victor&Rolf knocked on their door for a new scent - and now that juice is called 'Flowerbomb'.

So that is the mystery behind this very 'elusive' designer scent. It is not a story that grand. Truth be told, 'Flowerbomb' is not really a Victor&Rolf creation. It is just a juice that some businessmen thought was marketable.

After that 'fact check', I must say I think almost everyone posted an accurate review that summarized what Flowerbomb is. Personally, when I think of the name 'Flowerbomb', I think of some fragrance like YSL Paris. Not necessarily the candied flowers of this one.

'Flowerbomb' is not awful, but to me, also not quite exceptional.

I feel like they tried hard to create a somewhat lighter dose flower induced version of Angel and they truly succeeded. The scent's charm heavily relies on the wearer's personal skin chemistry. Honestly, it is perhaps one of the most un-apologetically sweet juices out there.

03 November 2008

Magnifique by Lancôme

It is not as horrid as people believe.

That said, it is beyond average, and I can understand why people would find this annoying.

To me, it is simply insignificant, not any better or worse than many celeb scents crowding the fragrance departments. It has an 'old lady' quality to it which is never a good thing. The rose, jasmine and caraway mix do create a quite unsettling and equally boring middle base which is so heavy and heady, that one wonders if the creator tried to impose all this intensity in dosage to mask the lack of creativity in this one.

God knows it is not 'Tresor', 'Hypnose' or 'Miracle'. Lancome nowadays creates one bland juice after the other, and I guess instead of trying to give the company a face-lift, they are making it even more tired and average at best - at least in its perfume selection.

Magnifique is not magnificent, but I would not call it terrible either. It is the perfect 'so-so' fragrance.

03 November 2008

Miss Dior Chérie by Christian Dior

Wow, this is very very sweet to my taste. It is a wearable sweet, but very sweet nonetheless.

It is not a 'skin' scent - it doesn't melt on your skin necessarily. It has a potpourri touch to it -especially the heart notes. It smells edible too, and the reason why is the very fruity opening that includes only fruits - pineapple, sweet cherry, strawberry and mandarin. Quite the fruit salad. The middle notes are rose, caramel, jasmine, violet and popcorn. Yes, popcorn... I'll leave it at that.

Then the base comes, which is quite insignificant actually. It is the usual patchouli, musk and amber combo. However, I would not call this base musky, amber-y, nor patchouli-heavy. It is fruity and sweet from top to the very bottom. That is the scent's distinctive 'edge'.

It is girlie, young, simple, yet somewhat loud. My complaint is it feels a little too 'edible.'

It creates a weird distance from the skin and never moves to anything that is remotely sophisticated nor sensible. It is the quintessential Parisian fruity floral though - the type that many celebrity scents try to imitate and emulate. I personally think it doesn't take that much of a sophisticated palette to enjoy and appreciate a random fruity floral scent. They almost always smell cute and girlie. And unfortunately, there is almost always a lack of depth in these scents' olfactory journey and their genuine soul.

It is an enthusiastic scent and has some certainly attractive aspects too its pre-mature progression, but it is not what I would call a fantastic creation.

That said, I am sure it sells like crazy over in Japan. And to Dior, that matters a lot.
03 November 2008

No. 5 by Chanel

"Just a few drops of Chanel No.5..."

It is all you need.
03 November 2008

No. 5 Eau Première by Chanel

Not as stunning as the legend.

It is still very pretty, but this smells a little synthetic to me. And weirdly enough, maybe also a bit more mature than No. 5.

To put it simply, if I were a girl and had to pick one, I would go for No. 5.

The older generation of the same formula smells more bewitching and elegant.
03 November 2008

Viva La Juicy by Juicy Couture

Smells exactly like Cacharel's 'Amor Amor.'

Copycat. Both fragrances share almost every single note listed in their individual pyramids. Even the combination and drydown are the same.

I give it a thumbs down. It is not a bad scent at all, but 'Amor Amor' was released five years earlier, and copying a successful scent is simply vile.

03 November 2008

Fancy by Jessica Simpson

Did I dare to say I hated 'Angel' and it was the worst thing I have ever had the agony of putting next to my nose?

I truly apologize.

'Angel' does not even hold a candle to this monstrosity. To me, it is virtually Godzilla dipped in sugar and spray-painted to pink.

It is absolutely terrible and absolutely Jessica Simpson. Cheap, tacky and horrid even from a -what you would assume- 'safe' distance.
03 November 2008

Accenti by Gucci

It is a huge loss that this frag is in the 'RIP' category these days.

Lovely from the first spray. Warm, luscious, feminine, and unique beyond measure. Why would anyone discontinue this amazing scent is beyond me.

The ingredients are (or 'were', I should say) jasmine, rose, lily-of-the-valley, tangerine, vanilla, tonka bean, peach, raspberry and sandalwood. Spicy and wood-sy, Accenti was unmistakably feminine, and a perfume I would call 'simply impressive.'

Not only a great scent, but it is worthy of being a classic. The type of classic that companies like Gucci enjoys to make a million variations of -to release for summer, winter, 'Eau de Fraiche', light, extreme... you know the whole ordeal.

If you have the chance to test this luscious creation, please do so. The only thing that will disappoint you is the cruel cold reality that this is no longer being made.
23 October 2008

Gucci by Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

Let me tell you; nobody will absolutely hate this scent yet many will find it to be extremely disappointing.

It doesn't feel like it should belong into the Gucci fragrance universe. It is utterly pleasant, yet it is also quite common. Incredibly marketable and should be considered as an 'easy-sell', Gucci by Gucci pour Homme doesn't remind me of any scent in particular: it reminds me of a lot of similar scents that I had the chance to experience throughout my years - one after the other.

Comfortable and safe, it feels like a scent that a 12 year old would buy, and a 55 year old would receive as a gift.

The opening -that I really enjoyed- is an elegant mix of violets, cypress, and bergamot. Everyone talks about the tobacco, yet along with it there is supposed to be a strong note of jasmine, as well as Olibanum in this. Those two are not easily detected. The base is the usual patchouli/amber mix that is carrying the tobacco abundance throughout.

When I first saw it notes before testing, I was incredibly intrigued by the violet, tobacco and jasmine combo. I thought it could be very edgy, for a mens scent, and kind of dangerous. People say that Gucci by Gucci (the womens version) feels a little too masculine for some. I had assumed some gender-bending qualities could -or should- be expected from this creation as well. That would be a bold 'first' for the Gucci scent offerings after all those extremely masculine male scents. Unfortunately, Gucci by Gucci pour Homme is not that creation.

This scent will receive a lot of mixed or low ratings from the basenotes community -I know it in my heart- yet it is not awful by any means. I am giving it a thumbs up, because it is better than the other new creations released this fall: Infusion d'Homme by Prada, Versace Pour Homme by Versace, and Diamonds for Men by Emporio Armani. If I had to buy one, this would be it among the four listed. Yet, the only way, that I would consider buying this scent, would be as a safe gift to someone. Ultimately, truthfully speaking it is not worthy of that much attention.

The bottle is whatever it is.
23 October 2008

B by Boucheron

This is certainly a jewel of a scent.

Soft, delicate and sublime, B by Boucheron is million times better than 95% of what is out there today. It is not the most unique scent in the world, but it is the best floral that I have come across for a long time (among the new creations.)

It has a tender voice that surrounds its wearer with a soft blend of woods and flowers as rose (Turkish, I assume), orange blossom and osmanthus. Boucheron says that one of the magical ingredients is pink peppercorn, which I assume is what creates the rich spiciness of the blend. Staying luminous and floral throughout, as time passes, the wood-sy base of sandalwood, cedar and a hint of patchouli comes to play and adds an earthy feel to the progression. The is also a delicate dash of apricot in it, to increase the seducing femininity.

I like the fact the B is soft yet spicy, floral yet wood-sy, luminous yet Earthy all at the same time. It is just so precious. I wonder how it would work on my skin, yet there is nothing unpleasant about this frag (other than its rather high price) and even though it is not groundbreaking, it is most certainly a spellbinding creation: one that is worthy of Boucheron's great name and stance in the international luxury industry.

B is lovely.
23 October 2008

Infusion d'Homme by Prada

This is barely a masculine scent. Barely. Maybe not even.

Another gender-bending creation by Prada which will be used more by women than men. I do not really believe in gender in scents, yet calling this frag 'Infusion d'Homme' is a tad lame.

It has that signature Prada synthetic-ness to it and this time -for the first time- it really really bothers me. Incredibly plastic-y and sticky, Infusion d'Homme is so close to its older sister, one wonders why Prada did even bother to release a scent, which anyone can create themselves by mixing Infusion d'Iris and Prada Amber Pour Homme.

It is incredibly flower-y and almost acrid. Unbearable at times, it hurts the nose after a while. The plastic flowers are that sharp in it. Infusion d'Iris had reminded me of this baby shampoo my mom used to wash my hair when I was like 3-4 years old. It has a sense of creamy innocence. Yet I do not know if it possesses a sense of grown-up sophistication. In Infusion d'Homme's case, I think the perfumers have fallen in love with the feminine version so much, that they tried to twist it so little and try to make it look 'masculine.' That is quite troublesome, because this is what I would call more of a let-down of a scent.

The notes are neroli flower, iris, vetiver, cedar, olibanum resin, and benzoin. The only difference of the scent from the feminine version is the lack of mandarin and incense (which doesn't even matter really since nobody does smell the so-called 'incense' in Infusion d'Iris.)

This is a scent I would never consider using even though I really enjoy Amber pour Homme. Its deep lack of unique character is being attempted to be filled by a very synthetic approach of scent making that I absolutely detest. The only reason why I am giving it a neutral grading is because this scent will make a lot of people feel unique. Moreover, as any other Prada scent, it is very well-blended which is rather hard thing to accomplish.

Also, this is the exact type of scent that will not alter itself on different types of skin chemistry: it is so synthetic that on anyone, it will smell exactly like how it does on paper. The bottle is insignificant, and it is the same with Infusion d'Iris with a more earthy subdued color palette. The bottles lack the minimalistic elegance of the original Prada womens scents and Amber pour Homme.

I do not understand what type of a man Prada aims to create, yet 'the man of the 21st Century' should not be this robotic and cold. This is a scent that just does not feel like a human's scent.
23 October 2008

Gucci by Gucci by Gucci

Unfortunately, I began to hate pretty much everything 'Gucci' after 'genius with the Midas touch' Tom Ford left the scene.

If you follow fashion, you'll know how much Gucci simply lost its former glory in pretty much every aspect and branch of its branding. Its products, while still maintaining their high quality production and finish, leave way too much to be desired in terms of execution, value and beauty. 'Gucci' does not look expensive nor sexy anymore: it is rather bland, safe, at times tacky, and overall mundane, to be frank.

That said, fragrance and beauty is still a very important aspect of this brand, as it is with almost ever other fashion label out there. Along with many great fashion and luxury products, fragrances have been the vehicle to transport the Gucci dream to many people all around the world through clever advertising, strategic releases, great development, but above all, high qulaity and cutting edge releases. And there is only Tom Ford to thank for that.

Gucci Eau de Parfum duo, Gucci Pour Homme, the Rush and Envy releases have all been incredibly successful. I am sure that everybody, who uses designers scents regularly, has used one or more Gucci scent in their lifetime with great pleasure. So I was curious to see what this fashion and fragrance giant would do with its beauty products to revitalize and modernize its image after the creative head of the company left the job.

Under the new creative director, Frida Giannini, Gucci has released their first scent: Gucci Pour Homme II.

I have used it, not with great pleasure, because while it was a nicely crafted scent, after a while it got extremely boring. That was a more silent release though, in comparison to 'Gucci by Gucci'. With the somewhat interesting bottle design with an unexpected color, a David Lynch directed ad campaign and after much speculation, the frag finally arrived. And I daresay I really like it.

Yes, it is very different from any other Gucci release. The frag, the bottle, the overall feeling, even the name is somewhat silly and misguiding. I do not understand the idea of giving a frag a name like 'Gucci by Gucci.' If this is the 'Gucci' scent, what were the other releases then? And Gucci already has two other frags with almost the same name out, which creates confusion. That said, what is inside the packaging is nothing short of marvelous.

This is not the sexiest scent out there. It is more of a 'day-time' frag, whatever that means. To say the least, I bought a bottle for my mom. That doesn't mean that it is boring, because the other frags I had bought to my mother were the original Prada, McQueen the Kingdom and Hermes Elixir des Merveilles. She loves them all and pulls them off perfectly. That said, more and more I see, she enjoys heavy and androgynous scents rather than the usual 'pretty-in-pink' creations that women her age seem to prefer nowadays.

The opening is sparkling yet dark -just like the bottle- being guava and pear.
Fruity? Yes. Sickening? Not at all.

From the get-go, there is something masculine about the scent. It is warm, rich, creamy, yet quite gender neutral to my nose. The mid note is the tiare flower. After guava and tiare flower, one would imagine this smelling very exotic, yet that is not the case at all. I would not call this scent floral. The drydown is quite fantastic as it is with most scents that centers a strong flower and juxtaposing it with a patchouli and musk base. There is also a heathy does of honey in the mix that ads some femininity and sparkle overall.

Maybe it is the fact that there is nothing awfully feminine about its notes that makes it gender-neutral. Pear is hardly a fruity smell, and you may find honey and some flower in many mens colognes today.

It is worth a try. I do not say it is as fantastic as Gucci Eau de Parfum, Gucci EdP II, Ruch, nor Envy, but it is a statement in its own right. The bottle... I do not know what to feel about. The charms are messy, tacky, not streamlined, nor modern. It is not minimalistic like all the other gorgeous Gucci bottles, men and women alike. It is 'celebrity fragrance'-like. Slightly on the ostentatious side - you know: 'looks better in picture.'

'Gucci by Gucci' is a scent that directly links its beauty to your skin chemistry: if it works, marvelous. If not, you end up smelling like a hippie truck with a lot of patchouli and honey. It is suave, decadent and less aggressively sexy with, again, a gender neutral manner. More importantly, it smells expensive. This scent is almost a promise to the future proclaiming that Gucci can still be a great fashion house that can manufacture gorgeous products that will enrich the lives of many Hedonists out there.
19 October 2008

Kate by Kate Moss

Cheap celeb scent. Enough said.

Kate should stick to modeling for great scents like Bulgari, cK Obsession, Chanel scents and YSL Opium. What else do you expect from Coty though?
27 September 2008

Versace by Versace

So chic, so pretty, young but sophisticated, modern yet I believe it will be considered 'timeless' in the near future.

This is how a beautiful floral should smell. It is definitely a beautiful and well-polished scent, and it is the type of frag which will be what you make of it to be. Some will say this is the perfect daytime scent, some will say perfect for long and steamy nights. It has a healthy sex appeal to it and a simplistic modernity, but Versace, above all, is a well made perfume that stays far from being another formulaic floral progression, but still looks to decadent times of perfumery when the fragrances created tried to be different, bold, yet pleasurable and intimately beautiful.

'Versace' by Versace is the masterpiece of a splendid olfactory intellect.
26 September 2008

Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari

It is clean, delicate and elegant, but I don't know what is so 'Soir' about this one. I used it with great pleasure, but also every time I reached for it, I got annoyed by how 'light' it was. My skin soaks up fragrance and almost digests/discards it. I had to apply embarrassing amounts of this scent, because every time after ten minutes, it just vanished completely.

To me, this is perfect for those 'fragrance-less' days after using very heavy scents for a couple of days non-stop, but the longevity is really really lacking. It is almost a little sadistic when you think of it: you want to experience the delicate and rich layers, and those sparkling and clean notes separately, but there is almost no time. The frag's lightness does not give you a chance to make it a personal and intimate one.

Let me tell you, I will honestly pick this up again sometime, because this has the potential to be that 'light' scent every guy must have in his wardrobe all the time, even if you don't enjoy that particular cologne category all that much. This is much better than any other light and airy scents out there, however, I wish its sheer elegance were something I could get to experience and walk around in a little longer.

Its notes are Darjeeling tea note in its heart, fresh and airy papyrus, a cooler-than-most amber, and a bergamot citrus as to be expected. I cannot see what makes this a sexy, or an evening scent. To me, it is a light day-wear.

Ten times better than D&G Light Blue PH and YSL L'Homme, but still... I can appreciate simplicity, but give me the expected Bulgari quality that comes with reasonable longevity.
07 September 2008

A*Men / Angel Men by Thierry Mugler

Over-baked chocolate cake with a cheap cup of coffee.

Way too effeminate for me to consider: I cannot believe that this is a men's fragrance. It is quite a stretch. In fact I think it smells exactly like Chopard Wish, plus coffee. Even 90% of the notes, and how they are combined, are identical in both frags.

The only slightly masculine notes in this are tonka mean and benzoin. I hate the smell of caramel and coffee notes in frags, especially together. This is sickening really.

06 September 2008

Délices de Cartier by Cartier

I must be honest I tested this scent only once, so maybe my assessment can be a little premature, but isn't this way too sweet for its own good?

I mean, I like -or I should say, love- sweet scents when they are done right. They have a sense of exotic charisma, and maybe not for everyday, but once in a while wearing a feminine, or masculine sweet fragrance feels almost like a gift for both genders. They offer a hedonistic extravagance and excess. But the 'sweet' in question must have a reason in its existence, and balancing sensibility. Delices de Cartier is just sweet to be sweet I think. Too much sweetness with nothing Earthy balancing it. There are floral sweets and there are fruity sweets, and then there are very overly done, syrupy sweets which are simply sickening. Delices is in that latter category.

I think the sweet notes must be a little tongue-in-cheek, humorous and interesting. Unfortunately, Delices feels much like Angel by Mugler, Wish by Chopard or Flowerbomb by V&F. I have a certain tolerance to Flowerbomb, but I detest the rest. Delices does not feel well-made, nor original, but rather I daresay 'cheap' and insipid. Which is terrible, since Cartier creates unbelievably gorgeous scents: being every time on point - one hit after the other.

Much like Angel and Wish, Delices comes in a gorgeous bottle -a true work of art by all means- and a big hype, but the juice inside just does not deliver. That being said, the bottle looks much better in pictures actually. I will still keep my rating neutral, because as sickening as it is, Delices still comes off better than half of the sweet scents out there, and is a new venture for Cartier. However, it just doesn't feel precious, glamorous and decadent as a piece of Cartier jewelry when Must de Cartier, Panthere and Le Baiser fulfill position and stimulate that metaphor perfectly.

I would recommend trying some other scent from Cartier, if you are a new to the Cartier scent portfolio and wish to explore what the famous house has to offer.
05 September 2008

L'Eau D'Issey pour Homme by Issey Miyake

Truly pleasant and dignified fresh male scent that has so much layer to show, story to tell and people to seduce. It is almost a crime to wear it in winter though: this must be reserved for lazy summer days. I had used this when I was like 15 I think.

My complaint: the same thing with Cool Water, Envy for Men, Dolce&Gabbana pour Homme, Le Male by JPG etc.: so many men are using it, it has no depth, character, or charisma left to it. Even I had used it as a 15 year old pimply boy. No names, who knows nothing about masculine elegance, or really annoying guys you might know, who should never touch anything this nice and pure, are polluting the perception you might have about these fragrances, and that is exactly what has happened to Issey.

How can I use this scent out in the public today (and believe me, I am ballsy about my fragrance choices) when so many classless/faceless men I know are wearing the exact same scent? I don't want to share my personal choice with so many other men per se, and it cannot be helped.

Nowadays, I am using Obsession for Men sometimes with great confidence and happiness, since it is not the 80s, not many men wear that gorgeous creation anymore. Maybe 10 years from now, Issey will speak volumes again. But for now, it is just used, abused and bruised to me.

Fantastic creation though: almost like a gorgeous suit or shoe in a store that has been tried by so many other men before you.
05 September 2008

Hypnotic Poison by Christian Dior

Lush and thick-creamy scent that can end up being quite vapid or worse, insipid and cheap on the wrong woman. But on the right one... it's magic.

Perhaps the sexiest and most ostentatious sibling of the infamous, scandalous, yet truly gorgeous Dior Poison sisters...
05 September 2008

Opium pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

Exotic.
Heart-clenching.
Dark.
Selfish.
Menacing.

Words cannot describe how much I love this scent. It moves people. Literally. Wore this to the dentist one day, just a little on the neck, and the female hygienist said that she could not concentrate on what she was doing. It is so sultry, dignified though, dark and definitive, unapologetic, and truly unique. I cannot even use it as much as I like: I am scared that I am going to run out!

Even above Ungaro III, Narciso Rodriguez, Black Orchid, this is by far the darkest scent that I own. It made me fall in love with vanilla again. And that name... Opium... Like some other reviewer has said, the moment I take a sniff even from the bottle, my eyes get heavy and unfocused with pure and unlimited ecstasy.

In many ways, I find this scent close to Must de Cartier Pour Homme: both are somewhat sweet yet masculine, yet where Opium is dark and warm, Must is cold and hazy. Another positive thing is, YSL created gorgeous summer versions of this pantheon of scents- two of which are equally sublime.

Opium pour Homme is a statement. It creates a man - it creates 'the man'.
05 September 2008

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

Tom Ford's true Gucci masterpiece - along with many other gorgeous scents of course under the brand, but this one is just very special to me.

It is a testament and gift to modern masculinity. Elegant, poised, dashing and unapologetic; this is a true legend. Simply fantastic. I am not going to repeat everything people have said, but yes, it is smoky and dry, woodsy and well blended, sexy and heavy.

It is a stupendous creation - and the bottle... now that is a true work of art. Tom Ford always knows what he is doing when he puts the bottles together. The gorgeous whiskey glass feel, but this one is a rectangular prism, with a heavy polished, but aged metal cap containing the whiskey colored gem of a juice inside. And a subtle fabric surface-like pattern etched at the bottom of the thick and transparent glass... Simply fantastic. I cannot stop playing with the bottle: its weight and simplicity is seductive, and so incredibly sexy. Gucci pour Homme II is the same bottle but with a tacky brushed gold cap and baby blue juice inside. The feeling/look is just not the same.

Decadent and modern at the same time. Love Gucci pour Homme.



PS: I first used this scent when it first came out and back then, its longevity was fantastic. Bought a second one recently (after many years of its debut), and its longevity is really not the same. Seems a little watered down maybe, which is a sad thought. Curious.
05 September 2008

Armani Code for Women by Giorgio Armani

Smooth and suave, this is a very dignified feminine scent that owns a true beauty and definitive character in its subtlety, tenderness, and polished finish.

To me, this is a perfect example of a well-put together scent. It is alluring, proud, seductive, and expensive smelling. There is a sense of class, and true honesty to its delivery. Simplistic in its notes and progression, this is a type of feminine scent that would not stick to your skin, but rather surround it with a soft caress. There is an undeniable softness to its character, yet also a youthfulness. It doesn't try to be sexy, but rather remain calm and elegant.

It is not unisex at all: in fact there is absolutely nothing masculine about it. At teh same time, it is not very sweet. Slightly powdery and maybe creamy, the scent's superstar ingredient is honey -to me. It is the most extravagant thing included in this fragrance. That adds some sense of sweetness, but also a youthful nature as I mentioned before. Before this note though, the scent creates a smooth progression by starting with a healthy dose of tender and milky jasmine smell, and with that orange and bitter orange notes, which surprisingly are not that citrus-y at all. They seem to be on the background when jasmine plays the field. Then the middle notes develop with more jasmine but tamed with orange blossoms this time. Then a simple drydown, which is heartbreaking-ly elegant with honey and a bit of vanilla.

Jasmine lingers on you for a long time. Even though honey and vanilla are big parts of the scent, jasmine is what stays on you for the rest of the day. Honey and vanilla are plenty, but noone can claim that this scent smells 'edible' in any way. Honey is surprisingly warm here, and complement the sultry jasmine/orange blossom combo really well. That being said, this is a very tame scent. It is not provocative at all. I would put this together with other fragrances like Prada Tendre, Coco Mademoiselle, Stella, Versace Bright Crystal etc. They don't all smell alike, but they are all tamer florals with fruity or light gourmand accords in them. The result is special, yet subtle and light. The only problem is, it may get really boring after a while, as these types of scents tend to become after weeks of constant use.

Armani Code doesn't offer adventure, but it smells lovely and pure. If this is Armani's code, then I am all about him. Also, it is a much better creation then 90% of what the company has put out all these years. At least, it does not imitate anything out there in the market -not all that much at the very least.
05 September 2008

Notorious by Ralph Lauren

Yuck, this is terrible. It smells like potpourri gone bad. It is so synthetic, so raw, so not-a-human scent, it is just plain offensive.

Loud, and very cheap smelling to me. I hated this scent, plus, I find it to be quite uninspired. 'Chocolate cosmos' are a type of flower, and along with peonies and carnation, it creates a very weird middle base that I find to be dry and very dusty. Almost headache-inducing. Mix that with a synthetic vanilla and patchouli accord and there you have it. And what is the craziness with peonies these days? They are everywhere! Is there an over-stock or something over at some lab's storage?

It smells just awful to me. When there are so many great feminine scents out there (including these very notes, but created much much more masterfully), I don't know why anyone would even try this.

Oh, and the name is simply the tackiest one ever. Quite appropriate though.
05 September 2008

Kingdom by Alexander McQueen

That line of poetry that pops out when you open the box: "Pierce my heart again..."

While working on the movie 'The Dreamers', the director of the movie Bernardo Bertolucci had described his actress Eva Green as being "so beautiful it's indecent."

This is exactly what this fragrance is: 'so beautiful, it is indecent.'

03 September 2008

Magic by Céline

I suppose I am the only person who knows about this gorgeous scent, or remembers it even.

I was 11 years old when my mom first bought this fragrance on a trip to Paris, and ever since than I am in love with it. Too sad that it has been discontinued, I still find bottles from amazon.com etc. to buy for my mom. Even her tastes have altered over time, but mine did not.

Magic was a scent she had used sparingly, with the fear that she would run out off someday, because it was impossible to find. Reserved only for nights, this was truly a magical creation. It had everything: sparkling like a diamond, a spicy/sweet brew with ultimate femininity bottled in a gorgeous glass sphere adorned with stars. Celine Magic was a floral chypre with a lot to promise.

One of the more interesting opening citrus notes, Magic had clementine, coriander, orchid, pear, and generous roses as its opening. Right away smelled like how a yellow diamond would if it had a scent. Spicy, fruity and floral all at the same time. The heart notes were ylang-ylang, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley. It was so creamy, so smooth, and so potent, there was almost something evil and indecent about it.

The base was musk, amber, and patchouli all at the same time, tamed with sandalwood. This was one of tthe first scents I had ever experienced that experimented with very rich ingredients and a masculine wood note, injected to everything that there is to be found in terms of femininity. It was a true tour-de-force scent: a 'piece de resistance' of French perfumery of the late 90s.

Yes it was heavy, yes it was particular and peculiar, but damn it, it was gorgeous. It was how a woman should smell. Too bad it is being experienced by so few.

Magic was magical.
03 September 2008

Prada (new) by Prada

Simply lovely.

Expensive, tasteful, distinct, and stupendous. Screams quality, taste, and sophistication.

I wish I could be 'man enough' to wear it, but its femininity is quite unforgiving.
03 September 2008

Bright Crystal by Versace

Not as close it its older sister Crystal Noir as I would want it to be, but still incredibly pleasant and sparkling.

This is the 'cuter' one of the duo. Much like the relationship between Gucci Eau de Parfum and Gucci Eau de Parfum II. Smells a bit younger, this is a perfect day-time scent, when Noir is best kept for sultry/steamy nights. The exotic coconut/fig vein of Noir is replaced with pomegranate and yuzu. It is slightly more feminine, well-behaved and familiar. The mid-notes are the most precious and luscious flowers like peony, magnolia, and lotus. I love its heart notes: they are simply sublime.

Peony tends too make scents smell innocent and young anyways, and being one of my favorite flowers of all time along with magnolia, these flower notes smell exceptionally beautiful and very authentic at the same time. The flowery heart moves into a musky and amber-y drydown, while keeping its flowery/fruity identity.

This is not a gender-bender scent though: it is a testament too anything 'woman.' I hold this scent in very high esteem for its jewel like character. Most importantly, it smells expensive and sophisticated even though being young in character. That is hard to create/find. Not as sensual as Noir, but equally respectable nonetheless. The bottle is identical to Noir with a clear crystal top and pink juice inside instead.

It is truly bright: another olfactory masterpiece from luxurious Versace heritage.
03 September 2008

Gucci Eau de Parfum II by Gucci

I suppose heliotrope, musk and cedar are what connect this edition to the original Eau de Parfum. The interesting thing though: the smell nothing alike. Eau de Parfum is mystical, androgynous, and sexy. This is strictly feminine, light, and pretty.

It is like an Angelina Jolie/Drew Barrymore distinction.

Cute, simple, inoffensive, feminine, fruity/flowery; there is nothing unpleasant in it. It just smells happy. Is it a true elixir of a femme fatale that makes men crawl on their knees, cry their eyes out, and bleed in their hearts?

No.

But it is what it is. Cute. My best friend wore this scent since forever, that is why I cannot be objective: I always had fond memories attached to this smell. But it is honestly pleasant: I am being objective. To me, there is not even a slight connection to the legendary amber colored Gucci Eau de Parfum (for the people who read my reviews, you know how much I love the original Gucci Eau de Parfum.) This is Gucci's 'pink' answer to fragrances like Coco Mademoiselle, Miss Dior Cherie, Prada Tendre etc.: the type of young smelling scents women from horizon to horizon love nowadays globally.

It smells very young, and distinguishable in its own way. You can't mistake this scent for something else: it has a character in its own niche. For a true fragrance lover, yes, this is a much weaker offering than the original Gucci Eau de Parfum. But it is because II is a different type of scent. Opens with fruits like black currant, mandarin, red berries, bitter orange and currant leaves to break fruit salad sweetness. Quite linear, but luminous from top to finish, it goes on with peony, black berries, freesia, violet, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley. Flowers all the way. And it dries down to heliotrope, light musk, and cedar.

The bottle is identical to the original, and it is a true work of minimalistic art. The fragrance is pink, and was overseen by Tom Ford. It is quite popular because of the Sephora push, and much much easier to find then the original Eau de Parfum.

I have nothing against the fragrance, and it would make a perfect gift to anyone, because there is, like I say, nothing debatable about the ingredients: nobody would hate this scent. But what happened the other day is; I bought a face cream for 20 dollars or something, and let me tell you, it smells exactly the same with II. Exactly. That is why I think II just smells a little common, and not edgy or debate-worthy.

But still, very 'cute'.
03 September 2008

Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

Spicy, spicy, spicy.

This is one of the loudest, boldest, and attention-seeking fragrances I have ever tested/owned. It is very sensual, very sexy, and warm beyond belief. I feel like if it were not so masterfully crafted with precious ingredients, it could have turned into an extremely cheap smelling monstrosity, but Obsession for Men is just wicked. It is like a witch's brew.

I love spicy scents, and this one is at the top of the pantheon of anything olfactory-spicy. Granted, this is a true legend of a scent, but its success is in no way overrated. The most attractive side of this amber-y masterpiece is the fact that this scents metamorphoses into something completely different on different people. It remains to feel very personal: like a chameleon of a scent.

The spiciness of the juice hits you in the face with the extravagant opening. In a way, so rich, that it numbs your nose for a while. Coriander, lavender, mandarin, grapefruit and bergamot promise a very citrus-y progression, but it is not quite like that. That is because the heart notes are very exotic and luminous, that it creates a heady and heavy aura rather than a fresh one. Carnation, nutmeg, jasmine, sage grass, myrrh balsam, rosewood and pine do create a very stormy almost, and contradicting equation. It is very exotic, very Eastern, very woodsy and spicy, that it feels how the rooms of Harems of the East would smell back in the days of Alexander the Great, or the Indian maharajahs.

It is ostentatious, because it combines ingredients that most fragrances don't, or did not use to back when this was released. The pine and myrrh combination is divine, and even though you don't smell jasmine and carnation as clearly, you feel their luminous presence. That is why it feels very very warm. Obsession for Men is in no way an 'energetic' nor fresh scent. It is incredibly sensual, very sexy: I feel there is a strong connection to another legend: Opium.

Obsession ends its journey with a very amber-y, musky base with patchouli, vetiver, a touch of vanilla, and a dry note of wood. (sandalwood perhaps...) This base is quite dry and still warm, and quite famous. In fact, I think it is the very base that creates the legendary Obsession 'obsession' among the scent's admirers.

Obsession is very amber-y, and yes, it feels a little decadent today. I feel like this is a scent for the night, which offers an intriguing adventure. I really admire this scent, and what it accomplishes mainly because of its bravado, soul and genuine beauty. The only sad thing is that everyone's father or something has used this scent so much back in the 80s, some people have not-so-fond memories of it thinking it smells old. Carnation and amber combo tends to do that, but I think it is truly timeless, and does wonders on the skin of a young and confident man.
03 September 2008

Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men by Giorgio Armani

Very bland and safe, synthetic and a little dull. Obviously a very commercial release after the female version. Even the name is a little tacky. 'Diamonds for men'... since when that is masculine or suave?

It just isn't impressive and remind me more of the less successful cK releases. There is cedar, Guaiac wood, some type of citrus in the opening (bergamot or lemon maybe), a character-less vetiver note, some amber at the base with cacao. It doesn't smell expensive nor chic: it is just inoffensive and weak.

Armani never fails to disappoint me, and this creation is just another way too mundane scent just overcrowds the perfume counters. Both new fragrances Versace pour Homme and Gucci by Gucci for men are far better scents (comparison is inevitable, because they are all being released at the same time), and even though I did not have the chance to test it yet, I am sure Prada Infusion d'Iris will also be much more worthy of your attention.
30 August 2008

Fuel For Life pour Homme by Diesel

Not bad, but offensively synthetic and a little cheap smelling. It is loud and bold, and sweet. I enjoy sweet scents when they are humorous or simply delicious. This is not like that though. Not for a very sophisticated and suave gentleman, I would like to believe.

It also feels a little college fraternity boy-esque. It just doesn't scream taste or refinement, and it is also not particularly energetic. ('fuel for life'... not so much)

I don't say I hate it, but it is really hard to make this look elegant.
30 August 2008

Fierce for Men by Abercrombie & Fitch

This is the scent they spray all over the A&F stores, everyday & all the day. It is the scent that hits you in the face, even when you just pass by one of the stores.

There is only one way to describe this scent: it smells cheap.

30 August 2008

Versace pour Homme by Versace

Versace has lost its olfactory edge I think. Especially with this scent. I am not going to repeat what everyone else said about the scent, but after Versace l'Homme, the Dreamer, Versace Man and even Versace Man Eau Fraiche, this scent is a big let down.

Because of the the listed hyacinth note, I thought this would or could have been a very polarizing scent that walks into a dangerous territory of masculine florals like Dior Homme (iris), Narciso Rodriguez for Men (violets), or Ungaro III (rose). But it is not any of that.

The only way, that this scent would have been somewhat bold, would be possible with a gorgeous, provocative, and sexy ad campaign like Light Blue for Men. But that ad campaign isn't around. Without that artificial 'image' and the usual Versace dream, this is just another aquatic neroli based citrus-y Acqua di Gio creation that noone really needs. On a lighter note, it is much better than both Gio and Light Blue, but that doesn't say much. Versace always creates high quality scents.

It is quite average, plain, and very un-Versace.
30 August 2008

Cool Water by Davidoff

You smell it everywhere: it is like your girlfriend is sleeping with every other guy in the room.

There is no personality left in this scent: no exclusivity. I must say, I loved the synthetic Cool Water back in the day, and still it is a fragrance that I admire and remember with fond memories, but I totally lost my respect to a scent which became the toy of 12 year old boys (this was the age when I used it), or 60 year old guys who are still chasing 20 year olds.

It is very synthetic, yet a good one at that. They claim that a crazy number of bottles are being sold every minute, not unlike No. 5. I suppose this is the men's No. 5. I guess I am the only person who does not think that this scent is cool or refreshing. I just don't get the 'splash on the face with a wave from Pacific' type of sensation. One of its opening ingredients is the mysterious 'sea water' note, but another one is lavender, and this is the note that hits my nose right away. This, and another line of greenness like mint and rosemary. Then you smell Coriander, Geranium, Neroli, and Jasmine with Sandalwood. It is not all that blue/Oceanic afterall.

Later comes the basenotes, which are a very well used pine, also oakmoss, musky and amber-y accords, and a little bit of tobacco. Yes, pine does give it a fair amount of freshness, but I must say, if this fragrance's name wasn't 'Cool Water' and the packaging was not the famous dark azure blue, I wonder if anybody would think that this very heavy fragrance is in fact 'fresh'.

It is nice, it is a signature and a statement, but when so many men all over the place are using this fragrance and chose to smell exactly like you, the elixir loses its once magical spark. And yes, it does have a rawness and slightly cheap character to it as well that some people complain about, but maybe it is not because this scent was not well-made at the time, but maybe it is because the perception about the frag has changed for the worse over the years by its self-destructive popularity. It is just too common to be precious, nor intimate.
23 August 2008

Déclaration by Cartier

I would say this is the safest scent Cartier has ever put out in the market. It is obvious that this is a scent marketed for the American customers, and other men who love linear, safe, lean, slightly bland fragrances, which had become increasingly popular in the late 90s and early 2000s, and still keep their popularity full intact.

Declaration does not 'declare' anything reasonably interesting per se. It is just a nice and comfortable scent, smelling slightly young, and to me, a little cheap. The scent works usually well with anyone's skin chemistry: it doesn't have that much climax, or originality to offer. A very dear friend of mine used to wear this scent all the time back then when, and I had always associated it with him. Maybe that is why I had only recognized the positive sides of this scent. Like I said, it is a well-behaved scent that doesn't say all that much. Unfortunately all these years, I could never see the subtle elegance of this scent that some people mention, even on him.

Years later, I met another guy who was wearing this scent constantly. He was, to say the least, was a complete imbecile. And I guess on him, I got to discover the not-so-pleasant side of this scent. It is woody, yet the woods are not well-balanced, and they feel raw, out of place. It has a very under-seasoned nature to it, quite wet at times, like an undercooked meal. The cheapness that I talk about comes from the very synthetic accord of citruses and flowers on the top notes. They are so tacky to be taken seriously. It is quite soulless in many ways, and far to safe to be anything remotely original. It is not loud, but also it is barely masculine. I feel like Declaration tries very hard to be a Bulgari scent with the beans like Cardamom as an ingredient, or like the tea note at the base, which are signatures of a true and tried Bulgari scent. Declaration really falls short of meeting expectations.

The have created many different summer versions of this scent, which obviously means that it is a crowd-pleaser. In fact, I even claim this may be the biggest selling mens scent of Cartier. It is not elegant like Pasha, it is not sexy like Must de Cartier, nor is it Earth-shattering like Santos. It is just not refined, and it is way too "I have too much money to spend on scents, but my taste does not necessarily match my wallet." I will test this scent again, on me, one more time.

However, I do not think that I will change my mind. It is painfully mundane, and even though I cannot say that it is a bad fragrance, it is far removed from being a true elegant jeweler's scent.

And one last thing, the bottle is absolutely atrocious, surprisingly so, since Cartier is known for their gorgeous and deeply-inspired Art Deco decants.
23 August 2008

Bulgari pour Femme by Bulgari

This is the scent which you may smell on the street, and get totally mesmerized by its beauty and elegance, and ask yourself: 'only I knew what this fragrance's name is'. It is very well-crafted, undoubtedly feminine, luscious and sparkling, and very very delicate.

Much much recommended to any woman who wants to elevate the level of quality and elegance of her fragrance wardrobe.
22 August 2008

Very Irrésistible for Men by Givenchy

Let me be succinct: It is good, but it is hardly 'very irresistible'.

My sister loves this scent on men, and that's why I gave it a try. It is nice, rather light, but it is very bland to my taste. I would not say this is bad: it is more like 'sure, why not...' type of scent.

It is like that light cream next to a big beautiful chocolate cake; the cream does not necessarily need to be there, but its presence does not annoy you per se. I would recommend this for summer maybe, but it is in no way an Earth-shattering type of cologne. The bottle is chic, yet the spray mechanism has that 'about-to-break any second' type of sensitivity as it is mostly the case with any cap-less one-piece unconventional spray designs.

The notes are not worthy of much discussion.
22 August 2008

Ungaro III by Ungaro

Of course it is fantastic.

Ungaro III is a very special scent, because it is modern yet at the same time decadent, lush and sensual yet masculine, tame at times yet underneath its cover, it is very provocative. I am one of those people who think that this is a very dark scent, and very smooth. I am sure it is one of the types of fragrances that women love a lot on men.

The opening is woodsy, spicy and citrus-y at the same time with mahogany, orange, lemon, coriander, sage, lavender, and even vodka. This is a very refreshing idea for an opening: being very bold and multi-layered with varying ingredients. Vodka is an interesting note here. I know that most people usually detest this note if it is too raw, and why shouldn't they? But here, it seems to be broken down so well with lavender, that it reads as a note that adds an original dryness to the opening.

I think this scent is dark, not necessarily because of the combination of notes, but because of the idea behind it. There is something almost primeval and raw about it, at the same time it is obvious that the notes are meticulously mixed to create a very ethereal experience. It smells real and natural: there is nothing synthetic about the scent. I think what is the boldest move on the fragrances part is its heart notes which are all flowers! These flowers are jasmine, geranuim, lily-of-the-valley and rose. The much-discussed roses of this scent are very powerful, but they are not the pink/white innocent roses of YSL Paris. They are -what they must be- black and very dark maroon roses with a vengeance. They smell very cruel, and unforgiving, and move on your body like a ghost.

The scent has a very dark spirit to it: something creeping near behind almost, kind of sinister. I do not understand how people can say that this is a cheerful scent: on my skin, it is a total seducer who wants to get his next victim. It wants to attract people: it WANTS to be recognized and appreciated. The base of the scent is musky indeed with moss, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar and patchouli. It is an elegant part of the equation and compliments the roses very very well.

It is a skillful scent witha bold statment to make, and I would say I see this scent in the same category as Narcisso Rodriguez for Men (with heavy violets in that one rather than roses), Opium pour Homme (the infamous anise/vanilla combination) and Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier. These all do not necessarily smell alike, make no mistake, but they are all mystical scents that feel raw and animalic enough to be deemed otherworld-ly, but elegant enough to be appreciated for their genuine beauty and darkness. Actually, I feel like this scent smells kind of close to even legendary Aramis with the musky, patchouli and woods combination along with the common green notes like vetiver and moss, and the un-feminized flowers. Don't know, maybe it is just my nose.

The bottle is fantastic and very very chic by being jet-black with gold accents, and it matches the juice inside. And the way you almost uncork the cap is also stunning and a nice detail. Overall, one of the best scents around, and one that I am sure I will enjoy for many years to some.
17 August 2008

Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

Its beauty brought a tear to my eye.

Enough said.
16 August 2008

Samsara by Guerlain

First and foremost, this is a very well made fragrance. The notes are superbly adjusted and blended that one must admire the craftsmanship behind the intricate composition. Many people think that this is one of the most sensual feminine fragrances created, and I must agree 100%. It has all the components in it to be, or become eventually, a very warm, luscious, creamy, and sparkling scent.

It is unmistakably feminine, and very very heavy. Definitely an attention-seeker, if Samsara was a color, if could be the exact color of its bottle: a deep maroon/Venetian red. The scent is slightly decadent in its nature: because of its heaviness and boldness, and unapologetic femininity. Today, scents like Samsara or original Coco by Chanel are not being favored by the younger generations. What young girls and women do prefer now are fruity florals with woodsy bases. Samsara could be that fragrance if it was watered down by 50 % and would not rely so heavily on the slightly decadent, but very exotic ylang-ylang all that much. That being said, watering this scent down would be a crime to its soul and ultimate magnificence.

The scent opens with a heavy dose of fruits as peach and bergamot and equally overpowering and intriguing ylang-ylang. It is bold, confident, heady. Then it effectively lines up all the florals that it can in its heart, including iris, orris root, violets, narcissus, but more prominently than all the other, a combination of wet roses with rich jasmine. Now, I will say that Samsara smells kind of synthetic, and I believe that is the result of that infamous rose and jasmin marriage on top of that ylang-ylang note. It can be a little much, but like I said, this scent does in no way apologize for its confidence. The scent ends its run after many many hours with an impressive drydown that makes this combo of flowers meet with amber, vanilla, musk, sandalwood and tonka bean. That being said, the smell does not metamorphose into something completely different from the beginning: it just evolves ever so slightly. I guarantee not many noses will pick up the sandalwood near the end.

Samsara is great, and I can understand why people would be surprised with the fact that there is, for some reason, not a masculine version created of this scent since many notes in it are the usual suspects of masculine scents. This has Guerlain's stamp all over it, and like its name, Smasara has a slightly Eastern/exotic feeling to it like YSL's Opium. It is definitely remarkable, and will leave some impression and mark to the person who experiences it.

I do own a bottle: someone left it in my house and been using it in my apartment for quite a while, especially to bed while sleeping, because it has such an exotic and sensual feeling to it that I love falling asleep in this scent. But it is in no way unisex. The bottle could be one of the most beautiful bottle I have seen: so smooth and sexy, it looks like a gorgeous historic artifact almost, carved from a precious ruby with gold accents. It suits the juice and the name very well. It is sexy, bold, and worth a try if you like exotic smells loaded with luminous flowers.
14 August 2008

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

This was definitely love at first sight... or sniff I should say!

If you look at my reviews, I tend to really lay it on thick about the scents that I adore. Heavy with compliments... but I must say, when you smell a gem like L'Instant Pour Homme, how can you not be generous with the praises? It is perhaps one of the most elegant scents I have ever had the chance to use in my life. I absolutely adore it. I had said in another review for Youth Dew Amber Nude, "this is how a woman should smell" and now I am saying the same about L'Instant PH: this is how a man should smell. It is very sparkling, subdued, yet bold at the same time, very luscious and colossal, but not particularly wet, nor dry. It is very smooth and slick; very layered at the same time.

It is a gourmand scent, and yes, it feels slightly edible, but nowhere near offensive nor dubious. You don't feel like an apple tart in this is what I am trying to say. It opens with lemon, grapefruit, star anise, bergamot and jasmine. Instantly, it is slightly on the sweeter side, and I'll admit, kind of androgynous in the beginning. But slowly, the bold opening melts on your skin and becomes one with it, and turn into a very sensual and awake experience. The heart notes of the scent are patchouli (kind of heavy to my nose), lavender, tea, sandalwood, cedar and cacao. Now, I detect a heavy layer of woods mixing with delicious other notes, but to my nose, cacao is not particularly chocolate in this case. It is not as sweet as you would expect, that is why it is not particularly feminine. It is sensual, rich and slightly warm, and the lavender note compliments cacao and jasmine pretty well.

And finally the base notes hibiscus flower and musk. At the end of the day, you end up having a warm woods and musk cocktail with a bit of sweet notes lingering near by. Very acceptable longevity on my skin. It is absolutely heavenly and quite sexy at the same time. I cannot imagine anybody HATING this scent: it is just too precious. And in no way it smells synthetic (I have no problem with synthetic scents, but in this compostion of notes, a synthetic resolution would not have worked well).

Sweet scents like this one, Bulgari Blu Notte PH, or even Opium PH are being favored by women on their men so much, yet men usually tend to feel uncomfortable wearing them. The cacao note in this scent is particularly scandalous, not unlike the cumin note in Kingdom, or iris in Dior Homme, to me. But in no way is it offensive. I can see a woman wearing this scent as much as I can see a woman wearing Guerlain Vetiver or Versace Dreamer. It is for the rather adventurous ones in my opinion.

The bottle is fantastic with a good weight to it. It looks chic, tall, and distinguishable among all the other scents in your collection. The cap is jet black, the bottle looks streamlined with bold cuts on the surface, and the juice is champagne.

It is a statement.
13 August 2008

Youth Dew Amber Nude by Estée Lauder

This is how a woman should smell.

Simply alluring. It is so seductive, rich, layered, and naughty, I cannot believe that some women chose to buy fragrances like Angel or some other hateful scent instead of this masterpiece. It has everything Youth Dew had in it, but so much more modern, in a way timeless, luminous and transparent. It is warm and unmistakably feminine. Yet with Tom Ford's Midas touch, both the perception and mix, that this perfume had been based on, have been altered for the better. I think this edition is the proof that a great scent, in its purity and basic combination, is indeed timeless, and Youth Dew is that timeless classic. Like a decadent Dior or Chanel look: it can always be modified into the new times without losing its original soul or merit.

Youth Dew Amber Nude opens with ginger, cinnamon, magnolia, tea, and grapefruit. The ginger and cinnamon are not too heavy, so don't worry, you don;t end up smelling like a candy bar. Yet this is unmistakably feminine and the opening, in no way, apologizing for its character. Then the scent moves to heavy floral accords as carnations, roses, ylang-ylang and heavy jasmine. Jasmine is overpowering I suppose, but this is not a 'white' scent, nor sticky as many jasmine scents end up being. I suppose the mid-notes do have something in common with Guerlain Samsara due to the jasmine-rose duo, but this is so much more modern and even much lighter than Samsara.

To break things to a more sensible ground, the scents seals the deal with sandalwood, patchouli, amber, and a little bit vetiver. What you end up with after many hours of wearing (longevity is impressive) a rich amber-y aura with pretty flowers. It is sensual, soft, and uplifting, to say the least.

Estee Lauder is a very estrogen-driven company. There is nothing male about it. I don't even remember testing a mens scent from Estee, ever, let alone buying one. Even though this partnership with Tom Ford has been clever on their part, it was such a marketing ploy, it wasn't even amusing how transparent the actions of the company were. I am sure they have sold many bottles of Youth Dew Amber Nude since, and why shouldn't they, it is a masterpiece like I said. But more importantly, I wish the company could be perceptive enough to release a masculine version of this scent, because it is quite easy to create a cutting edge, yet comfortable scent based on these accords for men as well.

I would wear this perfume, but I would not feel comfortable in it, since it is unforgivably feminine. That being said, a great masculine version of this scent is long-overdue, and it could be a great venture for Estee to galvanize sales on their mens department, which I assume must be quite dismal.
10 August 2008

Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

This is not a bad scent at all. It is cologne, so the most you are gonna get out of it is a good 15 minutes before it completely leaves your skin no matter how much you apply. The top notes are every single type of citrus possible: lemon, neroli, lemon verbena, orange and bergamot. And it is quite potent, unbroken splash of Vitamin C hitting your skin, to be sure. And then it very quickly moves to the basenotes, which are tonka bean, a very strong rosemary and a slight note of cedar. Lemon is ever-present though.

I must say, maybe it is the obnoxious modern fragrance consumer in me speaking, though it is in no way disappointing, it is so not ground-breaking. It will not shake you to the core, and 15 minutes is anyways to short to experience any type of strong sensation, especially with notes like these. But normally 15 minutes is long enough for a complete olfactory orgasm if the notes combined are genius, that is for sure. I suppose what makes me feel a little blase to the whole thing is the fact that this scent has the most regal and colossal name in the entire fragrance universe; 'Eau de Cologne Imperial'. That is pretty bold, and one does expect great drama, and challenge in a frag named like that. Stuff like Bulgarian roses, violets, amber notes of some sort: rare and natural ingredients that will make you feel 'regal'. None of those are here in this water-clear scent, in the most gorgeous bottle possible.

In no way I hate this fragrance, but I am a little underwhelmed. Not by its longevity, but its lack of bold character. That being said, if I were a woman, and could carry this gorgeous bottle in my purse anywhere I go to apply every 15 minutes, I most certainly would. By the way, no picture does the bottle any justice. It is perfection: so decadent and delicate looking, it is an ode to beauty. True work of art, but Guerlain always designs a chic bottle, even during the 19th Century!
10 August 2008

Virgin Island Water by Creed

Terrible.

It smells just like chap coconut/sugar room sprays. It has a very inhumane, unnatural, and demode feeling to it. I tested it, I detested it, and later I had to spend a whole night with a guy who was wearing it. It is simply terrible to my nose, because it doesn't even smell like sunscreen or deserts in which coconut note are most apparent. No, this smells very generic.

I really don't like it, because it is just not a sophisticated scent. It is not deep, or well-thought out. It is just so lazy. I believe Creed is a company that puts out mostly mundane scents, but because of their price points and so-called exclusivity, they believe they can get away with a devastating lack of originality and finesse.

Yes, 'the expensive juices in the flask' still look cool, but they no longer carry sophistication they once did.
09 August 2008

Unforgivable by Sean John

The tag line of this frag is 'Life without passion is unforgivable.' It is a quote from that super-genius Sean John aka. P. Diddy.

So let's see. 'Life without passion' is unforgivable. This scent is called unforgivable. So basically, this scent is life without passion.

Hence, P. Diddy created a bland and boring juice, put it in an ugly and chunky bottle made of plastic on the outside, and call this the sexiest scent ever. This must be the most stupid name for a scent, and I cannot believe that there is not one smart guy among his assistants to tell him that this is the worst name possible for a scent.

But make no mistake: Wearing this scent is actually indeed unforgivable. It is so generic, bland, cheap, and mundane, it makes my skin crawl. I cannot see any sophisticated man putting this on, and feeling good about himself. And to think that Diddy stole this scent from a Creed creation... It is just sad. Not the fact that he makes scents: let's face it, Jessica Simpson and Patrick Dempsey also have fragrances out, but what is heartbreaking is the very fact that it is some sort of a bestseller. I wish people's noses would evolve a bit more, and they would stop imagining they can be like this neanderthal just because they wear his cheap smelling, cheap retailing fragrance.
09 August 2008

Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

Yes, this scent is most certainly not amber-y at all, but it is a very well-blended and mixed juice that does not transform all that much, but still smells expensive and unique.

Let me tell you: this will not change with your skin chemistry. It is soapy, and very thick, like a blanket of some sort with great longevity, but you are not going to get the 'on my skin it smells like turpentine and lilies' type of thing. It is authentic yet a bit synthetic, chic yet a bit loud, rich yet a bit cloying, masculine yet a bit unusual.

I do not believe that there is anybody who can condemn this scent as being a 'bad' fragrance. You will either like it, or you won't. It is minimalist, on point and direct. But it is true: it is not going to be as crowd-pleasing as Prada's feminine signature scent. But this is just like Prada's male clothing, or their whole masculine philosophy: I think they really want to remain exclusive and slightly elusive with their image as what a Prada man should be. And this scent suits him.

This scent can even be described as selfish, because you're either going to love it, or hate it. It has no tolerance, and believe me, there may be, quite likely, people around you that will not enjoy this smell. Nonetheless, I think this is indeed a great creation, and addition to my wardrobe as I always enjoy wearing it whenever my hand searches for the bottle with the violet juice in.
04 August 2008

The Dreamer by Versace

There is only one way to describe this scent:

SEX! SEX! SEX! SEX!

Sex in a bottle... Believe me, I speak from experience. Synthetic? Yes, but who does really want to smell exactly like tree bark, violets, or lemon here? Sometimes man-made can be a masterpiece, and this is exactly that.

This is Versace. At its best.

04 August 2008

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Uhhh, how I hate hate hate this fragrance. It is perhaps the only fragrance that I absolutely detest. The worse thing is, this is one of those scents that say something very particular and peculiar about the person wearing it, which would be something like "I love bunnies, unicorns, rainbows, pink clouds, and I never ever wanna get old!!!" It smells like how a 10,000 calorie a day diet would smell like, if such thing exists.

I don't wanna offend anyone, but all the women I met wearing this one try to act like 12 year old schoolgirls, and be flirtatious with the men pretending that they are still the innocent little 'Lolita' that they once were. You know the type, the glittering pink lip gloss, slightly skimpy outfits, pink hair accessories with the cute little dog. It is a sickening scent, no depth, no mystery, no transformation, and so sticky that it would melt your skin just to exist. And there is no way escaping from it. The closest one I have met to this scent is Chopard's Wish, and even that is better. (and coincidentally, they are both blue bottles made of sharp prisms - one is a star, the other is a diamond)

All I am gonna say is, this scent does not suit anyone personality per se, but it sticks one on you, and not a mysterious or sexy one that one would expect, but rather a Paris Hilton-esque make-belief identity that is horrendous. Such a needy fragrance, and what's worse is that somehow it became such a hit, there are now millions of other even cheaper scents out there trying to imitate this monstrosity.
29 June 2008

Envy for Men by Gucci

I like this fragrance and always did. I don't get any smokiness though that people all talk about. It does not fell that dry, as one would expect from 'a modern Oriental' that people always refer this fragrance as. It is a sexy scent, and dares you to dream, but for how long, that is another question.

The thing is it has been so popular in the past decade, and still is, now it does not feel as special as it did before. Maybe they should come up with a heavier eau de parfum version or something. The ginger note, surprisingly well-handled here, is quite present, and maybe that balances the 'woodiness' of the scent so well, that it does not feel too dry to my nose. The scent tends to stay close to the skin, and feels like a very 'designer fragrance' with its whole wearing experience. Even though it is quite pleasant, one cannot help but thinking if it weren't for the 'Gucci' name, would this ever be this popular.

The drydown of the fragrance is the best part to me, because it is a truly unique transformation. I smell a lot of woods, but also a bit of amber here, in a sexy manner. It gets very warm after the drydown, and quite seductive. I would never describe this scent as dark. I suppose people around you could feel 'envy' if the fragrance actually made you feel over-confident and poised.

It just transforms well with the skin, and I daresay, I mostly find the scent to be quite fresh even though all the musk, amber and warmness to it.

I remember the advertising, and it was just too gorgeous and sexy. The bottle is so Tom Ford circa the Gucci days, it is sublime. Very modern and architectural, the black rectangular cap, and the prism that holds the juice display the emerald green color of the fragrance so beautifully. I mean, the name, the color, the bottle only enrich the whole experience and expectations.

Envy Man and Woman are the perfect husband and wife, or when you think of what Tom Ford would want them to be, 'sex buddies'. Feels perfect for Martini drenched nights and the morning afters. The only problem is that the couple have been on the headlines for so long know, I don't know if they are as exciting as they have been 5 or 6 years ago.
29 June 2008

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

This is painfully mundane.

That is just what it is. Lacking character, distinction, any sort of identity. I expect something -just a little edge- to a scent that comes from an established fashion brand that takes pride in its sexual image, supreme quality of goods, and overall charisma among many other brands. You like Dolce, or you hate it, but you know it makes a statement, and a bold one at that.

After the much hyped ad campaign (maybe the most talked about ad campaign for a frag since Sophie Dahl's YSL Opium) with the model's crotch shot, to get a fragrance, which is on a strict diet that restricts anything slightly interesting, is yet another sad, and widespread, addition to the interminably boring creations within this frag genre, that people call 'Aquatic, citrusy, and summer-y'.

More like "I prefer to smell like a Greek salad-gone-bad" to me. That being said, I am sure it sold millions, especially after the ad campaign, and the whole Sephora push (yes, Dolce promotes their fragrances like crazy, and it is good investment.)

Thanks, but no thanks. At least Dolce&Gabbana's signature mens frag has some appeal. If you want a good summer-y scent that fits in this category released lately, try Versace Man Eau Fraiche, or even Gucci Pour Homme II. Both ten times better, and at least have some redeeming qualities over this.
29 June 2008

Narciso Rodriguez for Her by Narciso Rodriguez

A nicely crafted fragrance, yet it smells very old. Like very old. It is the choice of many young women (a lot of friends of mine use it), yet I haven't met anyone that this frag suits. It is just too safe and smells very tired to my nose. Like insignificant.

Gorgeous bottle though, true work of minimalist art. I wish the juice had matched the container.
17 May 2008

Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci

There has never been, nor will there ever be, a sexier scent.

Gucci Eau de Parfum is just sublime. There is no other word to describe it. It is extremely well-crafted, skillfully blended, very deep and layered, and seriously seductive. It is a luminous scent that reminds me of heavy-lidded bedroom eyes, dirty thoughts and regretful morning-afters. (in a good way) The most important thing is, this scent is extremely luscious and it has a addictive drug like feeling. It is dark, or makes me feel dark.

It has a synthetic sort of smell to be honest, yet a very good one at that. The list of notes are:

Top notes: orris, heliotrope, orange blossom, and vanilla absolute.
Middle notes: cistus, cumin, and thym.
Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, and deep musk.

Musk is particularly dirty here, as many have mentioned, but vanilla is not that over-powering. It is a floral scent (particularly white flowers I detect), yet it is warm and rich, and not a innocent, sweet floral, but a dangerous and intriguing one at that. And you don't get any annoying fruit notes like many other women's (and men's by the way) scents seem to push forward nowadays. (As if I want to smell like Fruit Loops) I am addicted, and I am a guy. Not since Versace Crystal Noir, a woman's scent impressed and seduced me this much.

I wish they had released a masculine version of this particular scent. Yet it seems less and less likely, since the much more demure pink Eau de Parfum II seems to get more push from Gucci nowadays. They don't care that much about this perfect Tom Ford creation anymore as much as they used to. So no luck there I guess.

And finally the heaviness of the gorgeous bottle, the weight, the shape, how the juice sprays itself out of it, the packaging, the amber color of the perfume, and the ad campaign with the model Natalia Vodianova with the bedroom hair and that haunting expression on her face (if you guys remember it) are all perfection. It is not for everyone I'll admit, but to me, it is riveting, controversial, sexy as hell.

Truly Tom Ford, truly exquisite. Eau de Parfum is flawless in every way.
15 May 2008

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

I don't have a signature scent, but if I had, this would be the one, since I cannot seem to be able to stop wearing or buying it.

This is one of my absolute favorite scents ever. It is so thick, and luxurious, utterly classy. Yet, I find it also very dark, and sexy. It is a definite oriental, slightly on the sweeter side. Every time I put it on, I feel like I should be walking around naked with heavy lidded bedroom eyes. It is, to me, that sexy. I do agree that it is a little cold, yet the skillful blend of spices with rich mandarin and bergamot is magical. It is a true elixir.

The opening is surprisingly loud and rich. It settles on the skin nicely. Anise is what makes the scent sweet I suppose, which you get to discover during the drydown. A little bit of woodiness is what anchors the scent to a mature ground. It is truly intersting, yet like I have said before, I find it to be very dark for some reason, with all the spiciness. I am quite happy with the longevity and sillage as well. Staying power, to me, is admirable.

If you enjoy heavy scents with strong personality like Opium, m7, Poison for women, Black Orchid etc., Must de Cartier pour Homme must be a great choice for you as well. It is skillfully blended, very classy, a true jeweler's fragrance. The bottle is fantastic and how the juice comes out of it is even better. (the heaviness of the spray cap just feels regal for some reason)

So soignee. Yet still wants to get laid.
28 April 2008

Michael for Men by Michael Kors

I used this one with pleasure for a very long time. I liked everything about it: the fact that it was potent, had a character, the color of the juice, the surprising drydown... I just loved it. Especially surprising since Michael Kors, to me, is a sad personality in design. Just so tacky usual, yet his fragrance offering is nothing short of exceptional.

It has a maturity to it, I'll admit, but it is not boring or bland. The opening is heavy, I can detect bergamot almost instantly. Which is quite pleasant. As well as coriander, though I must say, the scent moves to its middle notes rather quickly, or that's how I felt. Suede, incence and tobacco can easily be detected right away. Which is nice, feels quite masculine, warm, familiar, and indisputably winter-y.

The most interesting part is the drydown though. this, to me, is a dry scent, yet the base notes do have a lot of sweet accords that make it unique. Usually in scents like this, the leather dryness dominates the base notes and that is the scent you get to stick with for the rest of the day. Not necessarily with Michael. Patchouli and plum make the scent slightly sweet and they stay with you for a long time. Yet the scent is still dry and masculine. It is quite odd actually, yet very pleasant.

I don't own a bottle now, yet I will pick one up for sure in the near future. The juice is a light orange-y amber/whiskey tone, and the cap looks like a blue/black marble block. Looks pretty chic in the bathroom. Timeless, and very New York. The scent, the bottle, and the whole experience.
28 April 2008

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

If you like and use this scent, guess what, you are making a statement about yourself, and perhaps a good one. It takes big balls to pull of something this sweet and dizzying. Everybody talks about the layers of this frag with the citrusy opening etc. I cannot even smell a hint of citrus in this one. The only thing I detect is vanilla, and more vanilla, and more vanilla, and more vanilla... It is truly sickening.

The woman 'who wants to rip the clothes off' the guy who wears it must be in desperate need of a vanilla overdose, or a 2,000 calorie dessert. The amber and musk notes are suffocating under the heavy drench of vanilla, that the frag never transforms, or moves on your skin, yet remains the same throughout the whole 12 hours (I swear, the longevity is very impressive, as it's with any synthetic vanilla scent).

I just don't like it. This was the frag that made me hate any type of vanilla scent for so long. It was definitely traumatizing. Since I have discovered Opium pour Homme, I like vanilla a lot more, yet I just think that this is not a well crafted scent. Not at all.
28 April 2008

Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

Ah, the age old question. How would you like your salad, with lemon or Acqua di Gio on top?

This smells like a mush, made of melon, lemon and desperation. So generic and overused, it is sickening. Fratboy meets 'wanna-get-laid' tonight personality. Very very mass market. I think it is the male counterpart of Angel: two incredibly overrated, overused and one note, food-like smelling scents that make me wanna cringe.

And it is always the 'Angel girls' who find the 'Gio guys' attractive. It is not even fresh anymore, during summer days under the heat, it only brings out a sickeningly sweet aura of the base notes. Perfect for the American market though. And unfortunately, changed the face of men's fragrances forever, or at least all the summer releases/ Eau Fraiche editions of fragrances. Kinda sad.
28 April 2008

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

I used both Dior Homme and Dior Homme Intense(I don't think this one is being sold in the US at the moment), and let me tell you I love them both. So sophisticated and gentleman-like. It is for the guy who doesn't care what others would think of him necessarily, yet still wants to make a bold and significant statement about himself. It is not one of those Acqua di Gio/D&G Light Blue clones out there: it is quite unique.

Heavy iris, and lavender notes at the top, slightly feminine for an opening, I'll admit. Yet the gorgeous green vetiver balances it so perfectly, that it turns into a dry, airy, at the same time, intriguing scent. Iris is very strong, so it is not for the faint of heart. It was unlike anything I smelt before, so I had to have it. One must be confident with his sexuality with this one. But there is absolutely no way this could be a woman's fragrance anyways: vetiver is too strong to my nose for it to ever be one. Dior Homme Intense feels slightly more powdery, and with heavier lavender notes all around this time. But they are pretty much the same scent, as they should be.

Not only is it unique, but also very elegant and refined. Women go crazy for it, yet it is not just that. I know many guys who feel very comfortable wearing it. It completely surrounds your body, gives it a warm dryness, and dangerously extravagant flower notes. I will say though, it is more suitable for a younger crowd. Must test before buying, yet with a scent this unique, I wonder why one would have any doubts.
28 April 2008

Marc Jacobs for Men by Marc Jacobs

I like the scent a lot, a nice blend of figs, a slight note of coconut, yet not creamy at all, a little bit of dry woods, and all blended together with a heavy, yet pleasant musky accord. Nice, original, yet doesn't tend to make the strongest statement. Good for days with a lighter mood.

One the other hand the lasting power is pitiful. I mean it is almost embarrassing. What am I supposed to do carry a handbag to put it in, so that I can reapply it again and again? I am sorry, I don't buy fragrances to smell and test them, I buy them to wear them. I demand staying power, even if it is an EdT. A good scent must stay on you at least 4 hours, and there are many great ones that do.

I am sick of these 'designers' who sometime in the past 5 years, decided that a mens fragrance is allowed to disappear from the skin after 15 minutes. It is the same with Tom Ford's last effort (note the sarcastic tone here.) Stays on you for just 15 minutes, then it you might as well spray Evian water: it is the same thing. Just because men don't tend to 'shop', but they only 'buy', does not mean that we don't demand quality, and utmost satisfaction. Look at houses like Chanel, Dior, Versace, Calvin Klein or YSL. All their fragrances have the longevity that I look for and enjoy.

Lovely scent, very poor staying power. What a pity. Especially from the great brand called Marc Jacobs.

28 April 2008

Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

I like this fragrance-a lot. It is one of the new releases that I am excited to discover, because it is quite different. I also get a strong melon opening with this, yet something in it also reminds of of the great Bulgari pour Homme. They don't smell that similar, yet they both have something smooth and suave to their progression. And am I crazy to smell a little Oud wood in this? I guess I am just imagining that note since it is not listed, yet it feels that there is a strong underlying note of woodsy base in this. I think it is slightly dangerous because of the musk, but still very smooth as well.

So the part that sparks up many heated discussions: too much violet? I think not! It is sexy, and yes, if the scent had color it would be a deep purple, but it is not an annoying bouquet of heavy violets here. It is handled beautifully. Drydown displays a lot of character: the rich, deep beauty of all the ingredients. I also like the fact that the scent stole all the best parts of his older sister, the ever-so-popular NR for her.(which I think smells a little like an old women's fragrance on the wrong person, but that's just me)
28 April 2008

Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

After creating such phenomenal scents like Gucci Eau de Parfum, Eau de Parfum II, YSL m7, Gucci Pour Homme, the Rush and Envy series, YSL Nu, and finally Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur, I don't know why the genius called Tom Ford had to be this cruel to the single fragrance that bears his own name. There is absolutely no ambition, story or mystery to this fragrance what-so-ever.

Yes, it is a great scent, I agree. Yes, it is very well-made, I know. Yes, it is nice and safe, yet unique and stands out in an army of oceanic/citrusy mediocre releases that overcrowd the fragrance display areas all around the world. But all the nice things kind of end there. It is not a home-run, groundbreaking, brave, sparking up discussion, the urge to go and have sex etc. sort of fragrance. And those are the emotions that I am so used to feeling after applying Tom Ford creations. The opening is light, like his website also mentions with a heavy layer of lemon. It is safe, comforting and clean. I get the bergamot, mandarin and maybe a little basil, yet there is absolutely no traces of violet, or ginger in this. Then I get more citrus, slight amber and a warm base of woods.

That is it, the end all/be all of this scent. It is not layered, yet comfortable enough to wear everyday right?

WRONG!

The scent disappears after 15 minutes. I swear that is how long it takes, even if you empty the whole bottle. Where is the Black Orchid or Gucci Pour Homme longevity? How am I supposed to wear a fragrance everyday when it disappears after only two minutes? It is very inconsiderate, to my taste. It is almost like saying, "this is my cheapest fragrance, so this is what you get in return: reapply like every two minutes". The bottle is chic as usual, and we all know the controversial ad images, but this is his first release I am not entirely happy about.
28 April 2008

Voile de Fleur by Tom Ford

Like many other people, I love Black Orchid. I am a guy, and I am using it with great pleasure. It is a unique scent I consider, so when I learned that there was gonna be a second edition of the gorgeous scent, I got very excited. Black Orchid is so heavy, which is something I am in love with, yet I had always expected a lighter version to be created, to reach to even bigger masses, and turn in profit. Yet I was scared that it was gonna be some crappy watered down summer edition, which would strip it from its soul and make it another sweet fruity/citrusy summer edition.

I am very pleased to say, Black Orchid Voile de Fleur is not that edition. It is super creamy, enriched with a heavy dose of milk and white flowers like gardenia, jasmine, or Casablanca lilies I think they are. This is strictly feminine. Patchouli seems to be much less in this edition, yet it keeps the dark sweetness of the original scent to the core. Kind of reminds me a much thicker Gucci Envy, with a foundation of very dark notes which still includes a healthy dose of Vanilla. In many ways, it is very different from Black Orchid, even though they are definite sisters. I think Tom Ford could have released this scent as something totally separate from Black Orchid with maybe in a white bottle or something. It is not a silly sidebar 'limited' edition to me. It is just as potent, unique and magical as Black Orchid.

It should have perhaps been called 'White Orchid' because of its heavy white floral notes. As a guy, it is impossible to find a good scent with these notes, which are being rightfully seen as very very feminine: at the top of the pyramid of feminine scents I think. Yet, I love these smells: they remind me of my childhood in a way. Make no mistake, this fragrance is not as innocent as a 'childhood smell' though -it is indescribably sexy once again- yet it is a little more familiar than Black Orchid.

Another Thumbs Up to Mr. Ford, and keep them coming.
28 April 2008

Casran by Chopard

I agree with PaulSC, it is also the first blind buy that i regret. The thing is, I am (as many other people on this board), use many fragrances at the same time, sometimes even layer them carefully to experiment. I tend to prefer dark and heavy orientals mostly, and I thought in my collection now I just needed something slightly lighter, a bit androgynous, and powdery that not that many people know of. So after reading the comments, Casran seemed like the perfect choice.

It is powdery alright, and something like-of-which I had never owned before. But I am disappointed with the lack of personality this scent unfortunately displays. Believe it or not, on my skin it smells a bit like Hypnotic Poison after a while (which I love as a woman's scent) yet it is synthetic in such a weird way. The opening is very weird, and the drydown is completely clueless. After the first 10 minutes, it settles into a lukewarm powdery feel, yet that one synthetic not is ever stagnant. The rum and chocolate I can smell pretty easily and benzoin is also present with the mix of the other two. At the end though, it is a dry vanilla scent that has absolutely no significant identity.

The thing is, it is very difficult to describe this scent, especially in a man's fragrance vocabulary of terms. It is just very interesting, and unique, yet I don't know if it is in a good way. I like it as something that I revisit once in a while in my over 20 fragrance collection, but a signature scent this will never be.



PS: The bottle, and the color of the juice is perfection. It takes a while to understand what the hell is going on with the bottle, and it's liquid lines. In that, the juice and the bottle match perfectly. It looks and feels like a jeweler's fragrance.
27 April 2008
 
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