Fragrance Reviews

Fragrance Reviews by pasha

Showing all 38 reviews

Cool Water by Davidoff

You smell it everywhere: it is like your girlfriend is sleeping with every other guy in the room.

There is no personality left in this scent: no exclusivity. I must say, I loved the synthetic Cool Water back in the day, and still it is a fragrance that I admire and remember with fond memories, but I totally lost my respect to a scent which became the toy of 12 year old boys (this was the age when I used it), or 60 year old guys who are still chasing 20 year olds.

It is very synthetic, yet a good one at that. They claim that a crazy number of bottles are being sold every minute, not unlike No. 5. I suppose this is the men's No. 5. I guess I am the only person who does not think that this scent is cool or refreshing. I just don't get the 'splash on the face with a wave from Pacific' type of sensation. One of its opening ingredients is the mysterious 'sea water' note, but another one is lavender, and this is the note that hits my nose right away. This, and another line of greenness like mint and rosemary. Then you smell Coriander, Geranium, Neroli, and Jasmine with Sandalwood. It is not all that blue/Oceanic afterall.

Later comes the basenotes, which are a very well used pine, also oakmoss, musky and amber-y accords, and a little bit of tobacco. Yes, pine does give it a fair amount of freshness, but I must say, if this fragrance's name wasn't 'Cool Water' and the packaging was not the famous dark azure blue, I wonder if anybody would think that this very heavy fragrance is in fact 'fresh'.

It is nice, it is a signature and a statement, but when so many men all over the place are using this fragrance and chose to smell exactly like you, the elixir loses its once magical spark. And yes, it does have a rawness and slightly cheap character to it as well that some people complain about, but maybe it is not because this scent was not well-made at the time, but maybe it is because the perception about the frag has changed for the worse over the years by its self-destructive popularity. It is just too common to be precious, nor intimate.
23 August 2008

Déclaration by Cartier

I would say this is the safest scent Cartier has ever put out in the market. It is obvious that this is a scent marketed for the American customers, and other men who love linear, safe, lean, slightly bland fragrances, which had become increasingly popular in the late 90s and early 2000s, and still keep their popularity full intact.

Declaration does not 'declare' anything reasonably interesting per se. It is just a nice and comfortable scent, smelling slightly young, and to me, a little cheap. The scent works usually well with anyone's skin chemistry: it doesn't have that much climax, or originality to offer. A very dear friend of mine used to wear this scent all the time back then when, and I had always associated it with him. Maybe that is why I had only recognized the positive sides of this scent. Like I said, it is a well-behaved scent that doesn't say all that much. Unfortunately all these years, I could never see the subtle elegance of this scent that some people mention, even on him.

Years later, I met another guy who was wearing this scent constantly. He was, to say the least, was a complete imbecile. And I guess on him, I got to discover the not-so-pleasant side of this scent. It is woody, yet the woods are not well-balanced, and they feel raw, out of place. It has a very under-seasoned nature to it, quite wet at times, like an undercooked meal. The cheapness that I talk about comes from the very synthetic accord of citruses and flowers on the top notes. They are so tacky to be taken seriously. It is quite soulless in many ways, and far to safe to be anything remotely original. It is not loud, but also it is barely masculine. I feel like Declaration tries very hard to be a Bulgari scent with the beans like Cardamom as an ingredient, or like the tea note at the base, which are signatures of a true and tried Bulgari scent. Declaration really falls short of meeting expectations.

The have created many different summer versions of this scent, which obviously means that it is a crowd-pleaser. In fact, I even claim this may be the biggest selling mens scent of Cartier. It is not elegant like Pasha, it is not sexy like Must de Cartier, nor is it Earth-shattering like Santos. It is just not refined, and it is way too "I have too much money to spend on scents, but my taste does not necessarily match my wallet." I will test this scent again, on me, one more time.

However, I do not think that I will change my mind. It is painfully mundane, and even though I cannot say that it is a bad fragrance, it is far removed from being a true elegant jeweler's scent.

And one last thing, the bottle is absolutely atrocious, surprisingly so, since Cartier is known for their gorgeous and deeply-inspired Art Deco decants.
23 August 2008

Bulgari pour Femme by Bulgari

This is the scent which you may smell on the street, and get totally mesmerized by its beauty and elegance, and ask yourself: 'only I knew what this fragrance's name is'. It is very well-crafted, undoubtedly feminine, luscious and sparkling, and very very delicate.

Much much recommended to any woman who wants to elevate the level of quality and elegance of her fragrance wardrobe.
22 August 2008

Very Irrésistible for Men by Givenchy

Let me be succinct: It is good, but it is hardly 'very irresistible'.

My sister loves this scent on men, and that's why I gave it a try. It is nice, rather light, but it is very bland to my taste. I would not say this is bad: it is more like 'sure, why not...' type of scent.

It is like that light cream next to a big beautiful chocolate cake; the cream does not necessarily need to be there, but its presence does not annoy you per se. I would recommend this for summer maybe, but it is in no way an Earth-shattering type of cologne. The bottle is chic, yet the spray mechanism has that 'about-to-break any second' type of sensitivity as it is mostly the case with any cap-less one-piece unconventional spray designs.

The notes are not worthy of much discussion.
22 August 2008

Ungaro III by Ungaro

Of course it is fantastic.

Ungaro III is a very special scent, because it is modern yet at the same time decadent, lush and sensual yet masculine, tame at times yet underneath its cover, it is very provocative. I am one of those people who think that this is a very dark scent, and very smooth. I am sure it is one of the types of fragrances that women love a lot on men.

The opening is woodsy, spicy and citrus-y at the same time with mahogany, orange, lemon, coriander, sage, lavender, and even vodka. This is a very refreshing idea for an opening: being very bold and multi-layered with varying ingredients. Vodka is an interesting note here. I know that most people usually detest this note if it is too raw, and why shouldn't they? But here, it seems to be broken down so well with lavender, that it reads as a note that adds an original dryness to the opening.

I think this scent is dark, not necessarily because of the combination of notes, but because of the idea behind it. There is something almost primeval and raw about it, at the same time it is obvious that the notes are meticulously mixed to create a very ethereal experience. It smells real and natural: there is nothing synthetic about the scent. I think what is the boldest move on the fragrances part is its heart notes which are all flowers! These flowers are jasmine, geranuim, lily-of-the-valley and rose. The much-discussed roses of this scent are very powerful, but they are not the pink/white innocent roses of YSL Paris. They are -what they must be- black and very dark maroon roses with a vengeance. They smell very cruel, and unforgiving, and move on your body like a ghost.

The scent has a very dark spirit to it: something creeping near behind almost, kind of sinister. I do not understand how people can say that this is a cheerful scent: on my skin, it is a total seducer who wants to get his next victim. It wants to attract people: it WANTS to be recognized and appreciated. The base of the scent is musky indeed with moss, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar and patchouli. It is an elegant part of the equation and compliments the roses very very well.

It is a skillful scent witha bold statment to make, and I would say I see this scent in the same category as Narcisso Rodriguez for Men (with heavy violets in that one rather than roses), Opium pour Homme (the infamous anise/vanilla combination) and Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier. These all do not necessarily smell alike, make no mistake, but they are all mystical scents that feel raw and animalic enough to be deemed otherworld-ly, but elegant enough to be appreciated for their genuine beauty and darkness. Actually, I feel like this scent smells kind of close to even legendary Aramis with the musky, patchouli and woods combination along with the common green notes like vetiver and moss, and the un-feminized flowers. Don't know, maybe it is just my nose.

The bottle is fantastic and very very chic by being jet-black with gold accents, and it matches the juice inside. And the way you almost uncork the cap is also stunning and a nice detail. Overall, one of the best scents around, and one that I am sure I will enjoy for many years to some.
17 August 2008

Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier

Its beauty brought a tear to my eye.

Enough said.
16 August 2008

Samsara by Guerlain

First and foremost, this is a very well made fragrance. The notes are superbly adjusted and blended that one must admire the craftsmanship behind the intricate composition. Many people think that this is one of the most sensual feminine fragrances created, and I must agree 100%. It has all the components in it to be, or become eventually, a very warm, luscious, creamy, and sparkling scent.

It is unmistakably feminine, and very very heavy. Definitely an attention-seeker, if Samsara was a color, if could be the exact color of its bottle: a deep maroon/Venetian red. The scent is slightly decadent in its nature: because of its heaviness and boldness, and unapologetic femininity. Today, scents like Samsara or original Coco by Chanel are not being favored by the younger generations. What young girls and women do prefer now are fruity florals with woodsy bases. Samsara could be that fragrance if it was watered down by 50 % and would not rely so heavily on the slightly decadent, but very exotic ylang-ylang all that much. That being said, watering this scent down would be a crime to its soul and ultimate magnificence.

The scent opens with a heavy dose of fruits as peach and bergamot and equally overpowering and intriguing ylang-ylang. It is bold, confident, heady. Then it effectively lines up all the florals that it can in its heart, including iris, orris root, violets, narcissus, but more prominently than all the other, a combination of wet roses with rich jasmine. Now, I will say that Samsara smells kind of synthetic, and I believe that is the result of that infamous rose and jasmin marriage on top of that ylang-ylang note. It can be a little much, but like I said, this scent does in no way apologize for its confidence. The scent ends its run after many many hours with an impressive drydown that makes this combo of flowers meet with amber, vanilla, musk, sandalwood and tonka bean. That being said, the smell does not metamorphose into something completely different from the beginning: it just evolves ever so slightly. I guarantee not many noses will pick up the sandalwood near the end.

Samsara is great, and I can understand why people would be surprised with the fact that there is, for some reason, not a masculine version created of this scent since many notes in it are the usual suspects of masculine scents. This has Guerlain's stamp all over it, and like its name, Smasara has a slightly Eastern/exotic feeling to it like YSL's Opium. It is definitely remarkable, and will leave some impression and mark to the person who experiences it.

I do own a bottle: someone left it in my house and been using it in my apartment for quite a while, especially to bed while sleeping, because it has such an exotic and sensual feeling to it that I love falling asleep in this scent. But it is in no way unisex. The bottle could be one of the most beautiful bottle I have seen: so smooth and sexy, it looks like a gorgeous historic artifact almost, carved from a precious ruby with gold accents. It suits the juice and the name very well. It is sexy, bold, and worth a try if you like exotic smells loaded with luminous flowers.
14 August 2008

Vetiver by Guerlain

Even if you hate it in the beginning, Vetiver tends to win you over in time.

There is no self-respecting man enjoying fragrances who has not tested this bold statement from Guerlain. It is inevitable. It is such a powerhouse fragrance, such a name, such an establishment, even if one hates the scent, he must respect what it stands for: Vetiver is a scent created for the perfect gentleman, and a perfect gentleman is the man who wear it with confidence.

It is a mystery to me, because some days, it smells really wet, but other times, it smells really dry. Very very Green, Vetiver is what is is named after: vetiver note on every aspect of the scent from top to bottom, but enriched with different notes at the different stages of it life on your skin. It is decidedly green, and slightly dirty even, but really really fresh. I feel like this scent alone inspired many other summer-y fresh scents like the Issey Miyake line, because it is a very bold ode to every green note possible. The other thing I must say though: within all its rawness, it is a very delicate, transparent, and elegant scent.

Opening is nutmeg, bergamot, neroli and lemon, orange, coriander and tobacco. It is decadent, and slightly sharp. Call me crazy, but there is a very soap-y feeling to this opening to my nose, I don't know why. It can be slightly nauseating in the beginning: all that green with all that Vitamin C, but that phase passes rather fast. Orris root, vetiver, sage grass, pepper and sandalwood at the core of the scent makes it very green and very bold. Now, this is the part that causes debate- if you'll like it, you'll love it, if you cannot stand it, then you will never touch this scent again. The carnation note evens the greenness of the scent a bit, but still, it smells very natural, pastoral even.

The most legendary part of Vetiver is its drydown though: the smooth transition from all that foliage to civet, tonka bean, moss, leather, amber, and myrrh is done exceptionally well. Vetiver actually smells ambery to me within all its greenness, that is why there is a clash of warm and cool I feel. It is a unique experience, because still to this day, I am still rediscovering more about this scent I love, and cannot complete my journey with it. For instance, everybody keeps saying that this is a perfect scent for daywear during summer, but i feel like it works best on me during winters at night. Under the summer sun, it becomes too much; suffocating even. But with cooler temperatures, it is simply a force radiating charisma.

I really like Vetiver, but it can never be a blind-buy. Try it once, and see how it will work for you. I feel like Vetiver knows no age or race. It is particularly masculine and very very elegant.
13 August 2008

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

This was definitely love at first sight... or sniff I should say!

If you look at my reviews, I tend to really lay it on thick about the scents that I adore. Heavy with compliments... but I must say, when you smell a gem like L'Instant Pour Homme, how can you not be generous with the praises? It is perhaps one of the most elegant scents I have ever had the chance to use in my life. I absolutely adore it. I had said in another review for Youth Dew Amber Nude, "this is how a woman should smell" and now I am saying the same about L'Instant PH: this is how a man should smell. It is very sparkling, subdued, yet bold at the same time, very luscious and colossal, but not particularly wet, nor dry. It is very smooth and slick; very layered at the same time.

It is a gourmand scent, and yes, it feels slightly edible, but nowhere near offensive nor dubious. You don't feel like an apple tart in this is what I am trying to say. It opens with lemon, grapefruit, star anise, bergamot and jasmine. Instantly, it is slightly on the sweeter side, and I'll admit, kind of androgynous in the beginning. But slowly, the bold opening melts on your skin and becomes one with it, and turn into a very sensual and awake experience. The heart notes of the scent are patchouli (kind of heavy to my nose), lavender, tea, sandalwood, cedar and cacao. Now, I detect a heavy layer of woods mixing with delicious other notes, but to my nose, cacao is not particularly chocolate in this case. It is not as sweet as you would expect, that is why it is not particularly feminine. It is sensual, rich and slightly warm, and the lavender note compliments cacao and jasmine pretty well.

And finally the base notes hibiscus flower and musk. At the end of the day, you end up having a warm woods and musk cocktail with a bit of sweet notes lingering near by. Very acceptable longevity on my skin. It is absolutely heavenly and quite sexy at the same time. I cannot imagine anybody HATING this scent: it is just too precious. And in no way it smells synthetic (I have no problem with synthetic scents, but in this compostion of notes, a synthetic resolution would not have worked well).

Sweet scents like this one, Bulgari Blu Notte PH, or even Opium PH are being favored by women on their men so much, yet men usually tend to feel uncomfortable wearing them. The cacao note in this scent is particularly scandalous, not unlike the cumin note in Kingdom, or iris in Dior Homme, to me. But in no way is it offensive. I can see a woman wearing this scent as much as I can see a woman wearing Guerlain Vetiver or Versace Dreamer. It is for the rather adventurous ones in my opinion.

The bottle is fantastic with a good weight to it. It looks chic, tall, and distinguishable among all the other scents in your collection. The cap is jet black, the bottle looks streamlined with bold cuts on the surface, and the juice is champagne.

It is a statement.
13 August 2008

Youth Dew Amber Nude by Estée Lauder

This is how a woman should smell.

Simply alluring. It is so seductive, rich, layered, and naughty, I cannot believe that some women chose to buy fragrances like Angel or some other hateful scent instead of this masterpiece. It has everything Youth Dew had in it, but so much more modern, in a way timeless, luminous and transparent. It is warm and unmistakably feminine. Yet with Tom Ford's Midas touch, both the perception and mix, that this perfume had been based on, have been altered for the better. I think this edition is the proof that a great scent, in its purity and basic combination, is indeed timeless, and Youth Dew is that timeless classic. Like a decadent Dior or Chanel look: it can always be modified into the new times without losing its original soul or merit.

Youth Dew Amber Nude opens with ginger, cinnamon, magnolia, tea, and grapefruit. The ginger and cinnamon are not too heavy, so don't worry, you don;t end up smelling like a candy bar. Yet this is unmistakably feminine and the opening, in no way, apologizing for its character. Then the scent moves to heavy floral accords as carnations, roses, ylang-ylang and heavy jasmine. Jasmine is overpowering I suppose, but this is not a 'white' scent, nor sticky as many jasmine scents end up being. I suppose the mid-notes do have something in common with Guerlain Samsara due to the jasmine-rose duo, but this is so much more modern and even much lighter than Samsara.

To break things to a more sensible ground, the scents seals the deal with sandalwood, patchouli, amber, and a little bit vetiver. What you end up with after many hours of wearing (longevity is impressive) a rich amber-y aura with pretty flowers. It is sensual, soft, and uplifting, to say the least.

Estee Lauder is a very estrogen-driven company. There is nothing male about it. I don't even remember testing a mens scent from Estee, ever, let alone buying one. Even though this partnership with Tom Ford has been clever on their part, it was such a marketing ploy, it wasn't even amusing how transparent the actions of the company were. I am sure they have sold many bottles of Youth Dew Amber Nude since, and why shouldn't they, it is a masterpiece like I said. But more importantly, I wish the company could be perceptive enough to release a masculine version of this scent, because it is quite easy to create a cutting edge, yet comfortable scent based on these accords for men as well.

I would wear this perfume, but I would not feel comfortable in it, since it is unforgivably feminine. That being said, a great masculine version of this scent is long-overdue, and it could be a great venture for Estee to galvanize sales on their mens department, which I assume must be quite dismal.
10 August 2008

Bulgari pour Homme by Bulgari

A great, warm, well-behaved, classic mens scent that I did, and will cherish, for many years.

I think this is a very warm scent for some reason, though it is not heavy at all. Quite fresh in its opening, it has that mysterious chemical Aldehydes note dominating it. Heavily. Also apparent are some citrus accord, nutmeg, lavender and tea as usual. Tea is what holds all Bulgari scents together, and this one is no exception. It is warm and green, but in a very refreshing way. Its base is also quite masculine, including everything from musk, amber, vetiver, cedar, moss and tonka bean. Now that is pretty ordinary, redundant even, but what makes the scent amazing is all the sets of flower combo in the mid-notes which is nothing short of spectacular. Moving on from the fresh opening, the scent combines tea with many flowers including black currant and orange blossoms, cyclamen, iris and carnations, and spicing the mix with pepper and coriander, and rosewood, perhaps to cut the femininity of the flowers.

The result is quite magnetic, and magical. Would work surprisingly well on any whether or climate. The scent is sexy, musky, and dry, but the flowers are all handled so well, that on every skin, they bring out some other rich quality. This is a scent that will remain close to the skin, and will change itself and adapt to your skin chemistry. Though I cannot imagine any type of horrible disaster with anyone skin chemistry since the scent does not include anything offensive.

That's why I think this fragrance is quite well-behaved. Longevity, unfortunately, leaves much to be desired, though the bottle is incredibly elegant. It is such a gentleman-ly scent. I wish it did not require reapplication quite so often.
10 August 2008

Versace Man by Versace

I cannot even begin to describe how much I love, love, love, love this fragrance. It is by far the only scent that gathered the most amount of compliments from so many people throughout the time I used it. It is simply a masterpiece, and a true gem that resembles no other scent that I experienced.

First things first: yes, it smells synthetic from head to toe like all other Versace scents. But a very, very divine synthetic. I read somewhere that it was created for a 'temperamental man', and that is true. The guy wearing this likes to live life big: big emotions, big loves, big thoughts, big highs, crucial lows. It has a very dramatic feeling to it, very much like an opera character. Yet, there is a very tender and soulful quality to it as well. The top notes include neroli, bergamot and angelica.
Now that is very ordinary actually, especially for am Italian brand to open notes with citruses, but angelica note sets it apart from any other generic citrus openings. From the get-go, it is sizzling.
And then you move to heart notes rather quickly which are composed of saffron and cardamom. It is indeed spicy, and maybe that's what makes it really irresistible. And it is very warm, though still quite clean.

What I love about Versace scents are even though they are synthetic and sometimes sweet, they are always very well-thought out. They are like complex equations. They last very long on the skin, but leave a very masculine note at the end that lingers on you until the day is out. And mostly that final note is a rich and suave tobacco, and in the case of Versace Man, the composition is no different. The base is quite amber-y with tobacco, and casmir (an Eastern wood). I also read that labdanum, the flower is also included here, but my nose is not that well-trained.

I must say, as anything Versace, this is a very sexy mix. And a very modern blend. I know people have reservations about being too 'synthetic', but there is 'cheap synthetic', and there is 'clean and suave synthetic'. This falls into the second category. It is not as obnoxious as Dolce&Gabbana Man, or as gender-mixed as Prada Amber Pour Homme. In fact, this has much more amber than the latter one. But these three are successful synthetic scents no matter what anyone says, and Versace Man is the greatest and sexiest, at the same time most sophisticated of all three.

So many compliments, so many good memories.
10 August 2008

Eau de Cologne Impériale by Guerlain

This is not a bad scent at all. It is cologne, so the most you are gonna get out of it is a good 15 minutes before it completely leaves your skin no matter how much you apply. The top notes are every single type of citrus possible: lemon, neroli, lemon verbena, orange and bergamot. And it is quite potent, unbroken splash of Vitamin C hitting your skin, to be sure. And then it very quickly moves to the basenotes, which are tonka bean, a very strong rosemary and a slight note of cedar. Lemon is ever-present though.

I must say, maybe it is the obnoxious modern fragrance consumer in me speaking, though it is in no way disappointing, it is so not ground-breaking. It will not shake you to the core, and 15 minutes is anyways to short to experience any type of strong sensation, especially with notes like these. But normally 15 minutes is long enough for a complete olfactory orgasm if the notes combined are genius, that is for sure. I suppose what makes me feel a little blase to the whole thing is the fact that this scent has the most regal and colossal name in the entire fragrance universe; 'Eau de Cologne Imperial'. That is pretty bold, and one does expect great drama, and challenge in a frag named like that. Stuff like Bulgarian roses, violets, amber notes of some sort: rare and natural ingredients that will make you feel 'regal'. None of those are here in this water-clear scent, in the most gorgeous bottle possible.

In no way I hate this fragrance, but I am a little underwhelmed. Not by its longevity, but its lack of bold character. That being said, if I were a woman, and could carry this gorgeous bottle in my purse anywhere I go to apply every 15 minutes, I most certainly would. By the way, no picture does the bottle any justice. It is perfection: so decadent and delicate looking, it is an ode to beauty. True work of art, but Guerlain always designs a chic bottle, even during the 19th Century!
10 August 2008

Blu Notte pour Homme by Bulgari

I usually love with what Bulgari does with their fragrances. I don't even remember one scent I tested from Bulgari that I completely detested. But I must say, I think Blv Notte Pour Homme is the company's most daring creation for men to date.

It has a powdery feeling to it, first of all. But it is rich and creamy, not headache-including. It is a happy scent in its opening, very sexy in a healthy, sparkling way. It lingers on the skin quite a while before it gets warm and powdery, and then you experience the chocolate note. I don't get the baby-wipes, even though it is rather clean, I tend to get a less-synthetic, more natural sweetness from it. I call it 'daring', because even though it is masculine, I think on the right woman, it can also be a magic. And that's what is great about the scent: it is most certainly created for the creatures of the night, rather than the people on the go. And that's why I find the notes to be also seducing and almost tiring after a while, but on the good side. Plus, chocolate mixed with a healthy dose of tobacco always brings out something slightly lazy, but also tender and sublime.

I wish it could last a little longer on my skin, but that is my problem with all Bulgari creations. The first day I wore it, 5 compliments from women, 4 of them on the street in Manhattan, people I do not know by the way. A friend of mine, a guy, told me that it was too sweet (because of the ginger/chocolate blend which stays on the skin as base notes) in a rather envious way I assume, but he was wearing Cartier Declaration, so his taste is obviously questionable. A must try before buying, and I must say this can never be a scent that i would wear exclusively for a couple of days (I am quite promiscuous about my frags), but it makes me always happy whenever I reach for it.
09 August 2008

Virgin Island Water by Creed

Terrible.

It smells just like chap coconut/sugar room sprays. It has a very inhumane, unnatural, and demode feeling to it. I tested it, I detested it, and later I had to spend a whole night with a guy who was wearing it. It is simply terrible to my nose, because it doesn't even smell like sunscreen or deserts in which coconut note are most apparent. No, this smells very generic.

I really don't like it, because it is just not a sophisticated scent. It is not deep, or well-thought out. It is just so lazy. I believe Creed is a company that puts out mostly mundane scents, but because of their price points and so-called exclusivity, they believe they can get away with a devastating lack of originality and finesse.

Yes, 'the expensive juices in the flask' still look cool, but they no longer carry sophistication they once did.
09 August 2008

Unforgivable by Sean John

The tag line of this frag is 'Life without passion is unforgivable.' It is a quote from that super-genius Sean John aka. P. Diddy.

So let's see. 'Life without passion' is unforgivable. This scent is called unforgivable. So basically, this scent is life without passion.

Hence, P. Diddy created a bland and boring juice, put it in an ugly and chunky bottle made of plastic on the outside, and call this the sexiest scent ever. This must be the most stupid name for a scent, and I cannot believe that there is not one smart guy among his assistants to tell him that this is the worst name possible for a scent.

But make no mistake: Wearing this scent is actually indeed unforgivable. It is so generic, bland, cheap, and mundane, it makes my skin crawl. I cannot see any sophisticated man putting this on, and feeling good about himself. And to think that Diddy stole this scent from a Creed creation... It is just sad. Not the fact that he makes scents: let's face it, Jessica Simpson and Patrick Dempsey also have fragrances out, but what is heartbreaking is the very fact that it is some sort of a bestseller. I wish people's noses would evolve a bit more, and they would stop imagining they can be like this neanderthal just because they wear his cheap smelling, cheap retailing fragrance.
09 August 2008

Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

Yes, this scent is most certainly not amber-y at all, but it is a very well-blended and mixed juice that does not transform all that much, but still smells expensive and unique.

Let me tell you: this will not change with your skin chemistry. It is soapy, and very thick, like a blanket of some sort with great longevity, but you are not going to get the 'on my skin it smells like turpentine and lilies' type of thing. It is authentic yet a bit synthetic, chic yet a bit loud, rich yet a bit cloying, masculine yet a bit unusual.

I do not believe that there is anybody who can condemn this scent as being a 'bad' fragrance. You will either like it, or you won't. It is minimalist, on point and direct. But it is true: it is not going to be as crowd-pleasing as Prada's feminine signature scent. But this is just like Prada's male clothing, or their whole masculine philosophy: I think they really want to remain exclusive and slightly elusive with their image as what a Prada man should be. And this scent suits him.

This scent can even be described as selfish, because you're either going to love it, or hate it. It has no tolerance, and believe me, there may be, quite likely, people around you that will not enjoy this smell. Nonetheless, I think this is indeed a great creation, and addition to my wardrobe as I always enjoy wearing it whenever my hand searches for the bottle with the violet juice in.
04 August 2008

The Dreamer by Versace

There is only one way to describe this scent:

SEX! SEX! SEX! SEX!

Sex in a bottle... Believe me, I speak from experience. Synthetic? Yes, but who does really want to smell exactly like tree bark, violets, or lemon here? Sometimes man-made can be a masterpiece, and this is exactly that.

This is Versace. At its best.

04 August 2008

Opium pour Homme Eau d'Orient by Yves Saint Laurent

FLAWLESS.

From the first second that it comes out of its gorgeous bottle to the point that it departs from your skin (which, by the way, is many hours later), this fragrance will captivate you like no other. I am a huge fan of the original Opium pour Homme, actually all the Opium fragrances to be honest, and when a friend of mine asked me what I taught about Opium pour Homme for himself, I was a little hesitant to answer, because I did not want anyone else to discover and steal this magnificent and elegant elixir from me.

But I was honest, and said I would buy any Opium scent that there is, without giving it a second thought. But then I questioned that statement, was I right? If YSL would release a hideously watered down lemony 'summer' or 'sport' edition of this great scent (which btw YSL is notorious of doing, as we all know), would I still buy it, and betray this great frag's originality and myself of that matter? The answer would be no, of course, but when I learned that there was a second edition to this fragrance, I decided to come on the basenotes boards and read the reviews of the experienced noses. And I was very pleased to read the reviews I must say: they were all favorable.

So I did a blind buy (it may be a little difficult to find this fragrance, limited edition and all you know), and boy am I happy with my decision! This fragrance is heaven: a great version of the great Opium pour Homme. I cannot say which one I prefer more, because both of them are equally magnificent. Opium pour Homme himself is known to be a dark Oriental, but I must admit this fits into that category a little better almost. This has a different, yet modern spiciness to it, and that creates another layer. The opening is slightly different as well, because of the injection of the bright grapefruit note.

I will say this, this is not necessarily a summer rendition as we know, or are accustomed to, by the other and more generic summer, or secondary, releases of heavy fragrances. Even though this is slightly less dark because of the citrus-y opening chord and a somewhat more woodsy base. That being said, this is a perfect edition, so good in fact, I am sure it will be a staple in my wardrone just as Opium pour Homme has been for all this time.

To me, this is a perfect, and very masculine scent, because not only it is multi-layered, but also very rich in detail. It is not flat: it gets very warm and delicious on your skin. I cannot imagine any skin chemistry that could manage to bring out something nasty from this scent. It lasts very long, which is always a plus since men can't carry their fragrance bottles in purses. The bottle is identical to the original, only the juice is lighter, and there is a chic print of an Opium branch in purple, on the glass surface of the iconic bottle. (I also saw some other ones with a bamboo print instead, but I imagine both bottles contain the same scent) It looks very elegant.

Feels very Parisian, modern yet decadent at the same time. I imagine this is the fragrance of an adventurer, or a dweller, who could also go the opera, or some chic Downtown club wearing this. Like its older brother, this is a type of frag that has at least two personalities, and all these personalities are very soignee and seductive at the same time.
21 July 2008

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Uhhh, how I hate hate hate this fragrance. It is perhaps the only fragrance that I absolutely detest. The worse thing is, this is one of those scents that say something very particular and peculiar about the person wearing it, which would be something like "I love bunnies, unicorns, rainbows, pink clouds, and I never ever wanna get old!!!" It smells like how a 10,000 calorie a day diet would smell like, if such thing exists.

I don't wanna offend anyone, but all the women I met wearing this one try to act like 12 year old schoolgirls, and be flirtatious with the men pretending that they are still the innocent little 'Lolita' that they once were. You know the type, the glittering pink lip gloss, slightly skimpy outfits, pink hair accessories with the cute little dog. It is a sickening scent, no depth, no mystery, no transformation, and so sticky that it would melt your skin just to exist. And there is no way escaping from it. The closest one I have met to this scent is Chopard's Wish, and even that is better. (and coincidentally, they are both blue bottles made of sharp prisms - one is a star, the other is a diamond)

All I am gonna say is, this scent does not suit anyone personality per se, but it sticks one on you, and not a mysterious or sexy one that one would expect, but rather a Paris Hilton-esque make-belief identity that is horrendous. Such a needy fragrance, and what's worse is that somehow it became such a hit, there are now millions of other even cheaper scents out there trying to imitate this monstrosity.
29 June 2008

Envy for Men by Gucci

I like this fragrance and always did. I don't get any smokiness though that people all talk about. It does not fell that dry, as one would expect from 'a modern Oriental' that people always refer this fragrance as. It is a sexy scent, and dares you to dream, but for how long, that is another question.

The thing is it has been so popular in the past decade, and still is, now it does not feel as special as it did before. Maybe they should come up with a heavier eau de parfum version or something. The ginger note, surprisingly well-handled here, is quite present, and maybe that balances the 'woodiness' of the scent so well, that it does not feel too dry to my nose. The scent tends to stay close to the skin, and feels like a very 'designer fragrance' with its whole wearing experience. Even though it is quite pleasant, one cannot help but thinking if it weren't for the 'Gucci' name, would this ever be this popular.

The drydown of the fragrance is the best part to me, because it is a truly unique transformation. I smell a lot of woods, but also a bit of amber here, in a sexy manner. It gets very warm after the drydown, and quite seductive. I would never describe this scent as dark. I suppose people around you could feel 'envy' if the fragrance actually made you feel over-confident and poised.

It just transforms well with the skin, and I daresay, I mostly find the scent to be quite fresh even though all the musk, amber and warmness to it.

I remember the advertising, and it was just too gorgeous and sexy. The bottle is so Tom Ford circa the Gucci days, it is sublime. Very modern and architectural, the black rectangular cap, and the prism that holds the juice display the emerald green color of the fragrance so beautifully. I mean, the name, the color, the bottle only enrich the whole experience and expectations.

Envy Man and Woman are the perfect husband and wife, or when you think of what Tom Ford would want them to be, 'sex buddies'. Feels perfect for Martini drenched nights and the morning afters. The only problem is that the couple have been on the headlines for so long know, I don't know if they are as exciting as they have been 5 or 6 years ago.
29 June 2008

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

This is painfully mundane.

That is just what it is. Lacking character, distinction, any sort of identity. I expect something -just a little edge- to a scent that comes from an established fashion brand that takes pride in its sexual image, supreme quality of goods, and overall charisma among many other brands. You like Dolce, or you hate it, but you know it makes a statement, and a bold one at that.

After the much hyped ad campaign (maybe the most talked about ad campaign for a frag since Sophie Dahl's YSL Opium) with the model's crotch shot, to get a fragrance, which is on a strict diet that restricts anything slightly interesting, is yet another sad, and widespread, addition to the interminably boring creations within this frag genre, that people call 'Aquatic, citrusy, and summer-y'.

More like "I prefer to smell like a Greek salad-gone-bad" to me. That being said, I am sure it sold millions, especially after the ad campaign, and the whole Sephora push (yes, Dolce promotes their fragrances like crazy, and it is good investment.)

Thanks, but no thanks. At least Dolce&Gabbana's signature mens frag has some appeal. If you want a good summer-y scent that fits in this category released lately, try Versace Man Eau Fraiche, or even Gucci Pour Homme II. Both ten times better, and at least have some redeeming qualities over this.
29 June 2008

Rush for Men by Gucci

I cannot believe to see all these negative reviews here: this fragrance is just perfection. So dry, yet so pleasant, incredibly sexy. I cannot count how many compliments I have received from wearing this. It is like the perfect aphrodisiac.

The most obvious note here is the cedarwood, which is nothing short of sublime. It is very very well-handled, and instead of balancing it with some flower or vanilla, they add even more wood layers on it, which makes the scent very ballsy. That is what I love about it, it goes all the way to the end with its woodsy/dry identity. The lavender, which I detect, is just there for fun, because it does not do anything for the fragrance other than the first spray of application.

I love this fragrance, so many good memories. Though, it is getting harder and harder to find it, I think it is being discontinued. gucci.com doesn't even list it anymore.. Such a loss if you ask me. It is hard to find a modern one note-type fragrance that smells sexy and young, yet light but complicated all at once and to me that is what Rush always has been. Some people describe it as it smells like a sauna though, which I kinda get what they mean actually.

The bottle, which everybody hates, I absolutely love. It is a white block, very minimalist, something that would come out from Japan or something. It does look like a Apple computer gadget though: I'll give you that. I loved the advertising, and the feminine versions (Rush, Rush 2 for Woman) as well. They are seductive as this one, yet as well as any other Gucci release, became a little too popular for their own good.

One final note, the Rush series from Gucci were marketed towards a younger crowd when they first came out unlike Gucci pour Homme, or Gucci Eau de Parfum. Hence the plastic toy-like bottles, cheaper price tags, and bright colors. They were Gucci's answer to all the mindless and endless creations and releases from Emporio Armani. (Remember he/she, White he/she etc.) Marketed for a younger crowd, these scents attracted many young people to these brands who later became loyal customers after 5 or 6 years and getting a little older. That is why Rush doesn't feel as timeless as let's say Envy or pour Homme, because I suppose it was never meant to be.
29 June 2008

Narciso Rodriguez for Her by Narciso Rodriguez

A nicely crafted fragrance, yet it smells very old. Like very old. It is the choice of many young women (a lot of friends of mine use it), yet I haven't met anyone that this frag suits. It is just too safe and smells very tired to my nose. Like insignificant.

Gorgeous bottle though, true work of minimalist art. I wish the juice had matched the container.
17 May 2008

Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci

There has never been, nor will there ever be, a sexier scent.

Gucci Eau de Parfum is just sublime. There is no other word to describe it. It is extremely well-crafted, skillfully blended, very deep and layered, and seriously seductive. It is a luminous scent that reminds me of heavy-lidded bedroom eyes, dirty thoughts and regretful morning-afters. (in a good way) The most important thing is, this scent is extremely luscious and it has a addictive drug like feeling. It is dark, or makes me feel dark.

It has a synthetic sort of smell to be honest, yet a very good one at that. The list of notes are:

Top notes: orris, heliotrope, orange blossom, and vanilla absolute.
Middle notes: cistus, cumin, and thym.
Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, and deep musk.

Musk is particularly dirty here, as many have mentioned, but vanilla is not that over-powering. It is a floral scent (particularly white flowers I detect), yet it is warm and rich, and not a innocent, sweet floral, but a dangerous and intriguing one at that. And you don't get any annoying fruit notes like many other women's (and men's by the way) scents seem to push forward nowadays. (As if I want to smell like Fruit Loops) I am addicted, and I am a guy. Not since Versace Crystal Noir, a woman's scent impressed and seduced me this much.

I wish they had released a masculine version of this particular scent. Yet it seems less and less likely, since the much more demure pink Eau de Parfum II seems to get more push from Gucci nowadays. They don't care that much about this perfect Tom Ford creation anymore as much as they used to. So no luck there I guess.

And finally the heaviness of the gorgeous bottle, the weight, the shape, how the juice sprays itself out of it, the packaging, the amber color of the perfume, and the ad campaign with the model Natalia Vodianova with the bedroom hair and that haunting expression on her face (if you guys remember it) are all perfection. It is not for everyone I'll admit, but to me, it is riveting, controversial, sexy as hell.

Truly Tom Ford, truly exquisite. Eau de Parfum is flawless in every way.
15 May 2008

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

I don't have a signature scent, but if I had, this would be the one, since I cannot seem to be able to stop wearing or buying it.

This is one of my absolute favorite scents ever. It is so thick, and luxurious, utterly classy. Yet, I find it also very dark, and sexy. It is a definite oriental, slightly on the sweeter side. Every time I put it on, I feel like I should be walking around naked with heavy lidded bedroom eyes. It is, to me, that sexy. I do agree that it is a little cold, yet the skillful blend of spices with rich mandarin and bergamot is magical. It is a true elixir.

The opening is surprisingly loud and rich. It settles on the skin nicely. Anise is what makes the scent sweet I suppose, which you get to discover during the drydown. A little bit of woodiness is what anchors the scent to a mature ground. It is truly intersting, yet like I have said before, I find it to be very dark for some reason, with all the spiciness. I am quite happy with the longevity and sillage as well. Staying power, to me, is admirable.

If you enjoy heavy scents with strong personality like Opium, m7, Poison for women, Black Orchid etc., Must de Cartier pour Homme must be a great choice for you as well. It is skillfully blended, very classy, a true jeweler's fragrance. The bottle is fantastic and how the juice comes out of it is even better. (the heaviness of the spray cap just feels regal for some reason)

So soignee. Yet still wants to get laid.
28 April 2008

Michael for Men by Michael Kors

I used this one with pleasure for a very long time. I liked everything about it: the fact that it was potent, had a character, the color of the juice, the surprising drydown... I just loved it. Especially surprising since Michael Kors, to me, is a sad personality in design. Just so tacky usual, yet his fragrance offering is nothing short of exceptional.

It has a maturity to it, I'll admit, but it is not boring or bland. The opening is heavy, I can detect bergamot almost instantly. Which is quite pleasant. As well as coriander, though I must say, the scent moves to its middle notes rather quickly, or that's how I felt. Suede, incence and tobacco can easily be detected right away. Which is nice, feels quite masculine, warm, familiar, and indisputably winter-y.

The most interesting part is the drydown though. this, to me, is a dry scent, yet the base notes do have a lot of sweet accords that make it unique. Usually in scents like this, the leather dryness dominates the base notes and that is the scent you get to stick with for the rest of the day. Not necessarily with Michael. Patchouli and plum make the scent slightly sweet and they stay with you for a long time. Yet the scent is still dry and masculine. It is quite odd actually, yet very pleasant.

I don't own a bottle now, yet I will pick one up for sure in the near future. The juice is a light orange-y amber/whiskey tone, and the cap looks like a blue/black marble block. Looks pretty chic in the bathroom. Timeless, and very New York. The scent, the bottle, and the whole experience.
28 April 2008

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

If you like and use this scent, guess what, you are making a statement about yourself, and perhaps a good one. It takes big balls to pull of something this sweet and dizzying. Everybody talks about the layers of this frag with the citrusy opening etc. I cannot even smell a hint of citrus in this one. The only thing I detect is vanilla, and more vanilla, and more vanilla, and more vanilla... It is truly sickening.

The woman 'who wants to rip the clothes off' the guy who wears it must be in desperate need of a vanilla overdose, or a 2,000 calorie dessert. The amber and musk notes are suffocating under the heavy drench of vanilla, that the frag never transforms, or moves on your skin, yet remains the same throughout the whole 12 hours (I swear, the longevity is very impressive, as it's with any synthetic vanilla scent).

I just don't like it. This was the frag that made me hate any type of vanilla scent for so long. It was definitely traumatizing. Since I have discovered Opium pour Homme, I like vanilla a lot more, yet I just think that this is not a well crafted scent. Not at all.
28 April 2008

Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

Ah, the age old question. How would you like your salad, with lemon or Acqua di Gio on top?

This smells like a mush, made of melon, lemon and desperation. So generic and overused, it is sickening. Fratboy meets 'wanna-get-laid' tonight personality. Very very mass market. I think it is the male counterpart of Angel: two incredibly overrated, overused and one note, food-like smelling scents that make me wanna cringe.

And it is always the 'Angel girls' who find the 'Gio guys' attractive. It is not even fresh anymore, during summer days under the heat, it only brings out a sickeningly sweet aura of the base notes. Perfect for the American market though. And unfortunately, changed the face of men's fragrances forever, or at least all the summer releases/ Eau Fraiche editions of fragrances. Kinda sad.
28 April 2008

Dior Homme by Christian Dior

I used both Dior Homme and Dior Homme Intense(I don't think this one is being sold in the US at the moment), and let me tell you I love them both. So sophisticated and gentleman-like. It is for the guy who doesn't care what others would think of him necessarily, yet still wants to make a bold and significant statement about himself. It is not one of those Acqua di Gio/D&G Light Blue clones out there: it is quite unique.

Heavy iris, and lavender notes at the top, slightly feminine for an opening, I'll admit. Yet the gorgeous green vetiver balances it so perfectly, that it turns into a dry, airy, at the same time, intriguing scent. Iris is very strong, so it is not for the faint of heart. It was unlike anything I smelt before, so I had to have it. One must be confident with his sexuality with this one. But there is absolutely no way this could be a woman's fragrance anyways: vetiver is too strong to my nose for it to ever be one. Dior Homme Intense feels slightly more powdery, and with heavier lavender notes all around this time. But they are pretty much the same scent, as they should be.

Not only is it unique, but also very elegant and refined. Women go crazy for it, yet it is not just that. I know many guys who feel very comfortable wearing it. It completely surrounds your body, gives it a warm dryness, and dangerously extravagant flower notes. I will say though, it is more suitable for a younger crowd. Must test before buying, yet with a scent this unique, I wonder why one would have any doubts.
28 April 2008

Marc Jacobs for Men by Marc Jacobs

I like the scent a lot, a nice blend of figs, a slight note of coconut, yet not creamy at all, a little bit of dry woods, and all blended together with a heavy, yet pleasant musky accord. Nice, original, yet doesn't tend to make the strongest statement. Good for days with a lighter mood.

One the other hand the lasting power is pitiful. I mean it is almost embarrassing. What am I supposed to do carry a handbag to put it in, so that I can reapply it again and again? I am sorry, I don't buy fragrances to smell and test them, I buy them to wear them. I demand staying power, even if it is an EdT. A good scent must stay on you at least 4 hours, and there are many great ones that do.

I am sick of these 'designers' who sometime in the past 5 years, decided that a mens fragrance is allowed to disappear from the skin after 15 minutes. It is the same with Tom Ford's last effort (note the sarcastic tone here.) Stays on you for just 15 minutes, then it you might as well spray Evian water: it is the same thing. Just because men don't tend to 'shop', but they only 'buy', does not mean that we don't demand quality, and utmost satisfaction. Look at houses like Chanel, Dior, Versace, Calvin Klein or YSL. All their fragrances have the longevity that I look for and enjoy.

Lovely scent, very poor staying power. What a pity. Especially from the great brand called Marc Jacobs.

28 April 2008

Crystal Noir by Versace

Ah, what a groundbreaking fragrance Crystal Noir is!

What a sublime experience this fragrance offers! It is soo sexy, dark and rich with textures, it is unbelievably alive and poised. So elegant, yet very very naughty. I am in love with this scent and have always been. It is not only dark, but very very original and dangerous at the same time.

It's power comes from the subtlety of the notes, and how they transform over the time. It is most certainly an evening fragrance, to dinner, and definitely to the bed later that night. It is simply irresistible. The gardenia note, as everyone else mentions it, is very apparent from the get-go. Although one would expect the scent to be very white-floral because of it, the heavy amber and musk notes at the base of the scent takes it to a very rich and dark level, and that's what makes it intoxicating. A well-balanced floral accord, enriched with a much lighter fruity blend (it feels like something tropical, or maybe figs??) arriving to the rich base that is heavy enough to carry all the white flowers at the top.

Simply lovely. It feels slightly synthetic, but in a good way, like Gucci Eau de Parfum or Prada. In fact, I think this is Versace's answer to Gucci Eau de Parfum, since both were definitely created for the same woman. I feel if Versace had promoted its fragrances as well as Gucci, Dolce or Chanel always do, this could easily be among the great and most popular dark florals out there. Yet I guess all is well, since not that many people know about it and that makes it even more special.

I am a guy, and along with Black Orchid, I wear this as well. Not too much though, sparingly, and in times few and far in between. It feels nice on my skin: I especially enjoy the amber notes on me. Sometimes, I layer it with some Guerlain Vetiver, or a little bit of Gucci Pour Homme, and it instantly becomes a very dark and dry masculine scent. So many compliments from both sexes, because it just feels sexy.

Finally, I still remember the great advertising for this fragrance with the model Isabeli Fontana lying on the floor with two male models looking quite dazed and confused, and pretty 'high' because of it. I get the concept, because this scent makes me feel like that as well. It is multifaceted and sparkling like its name. And it is, by far, the greatest, chicest, and most dangerous looking fragrance bottle I have ever seen in my life. Simply sublime.
28 April 2008

Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

I like this fragrance-a lot. It is one of the new releases that I am excited to discover, because it is quite different. I also get a strong melon opening with this, yet something in it also reminds of of the great Bulgari pour Homme. They don't smell that similar, yet they both have something smooth and suave to their progression. And am I crazy to smell a little Oud wood in this? I guess I am just imagining that note since it is not listed, yet it feels that there is a strong underlying note of woodsy base in this. I think it is slightly dangerous because of the musk, but still very smooth as well.

So the part that sparks up many heated discussions: too much violet? I think not! It is sexy, and yes, if the scent had color it would be a deep purple, but it is not an annoying bouquet of heavy violets here. It is handled beautifully. Drydown displays a lot of character: the rich, deep beauty of all the ingredients. I also like the fact that the scent stole all the best parts of his older sister, the ever-so-popular NR for her.(which I think smells a little like an old women's fragrance on the wrong person, but that's just me)
28 April 2008

Tom Ford for Men by Tom Ford

After creating such phenomenal scents like Gucci Eau de Parfum, Eau de Parfum II, YSL m7, Gucci Pour Homme, the Rush and Envy series, YSL Nu, and finally Black Orchid and Black Orchid Voile de Fleur, I don't know why the genius called Tom Ford had to be this cruel to the single fragrance that bears his own name. There is absolutely no ambition, story or mystery to this fragrance what-so-ever.

Yes, it is a great scent, I agree. Yes, it is very well-made, I know. Yes, it is nice and safe, yet unique and stands out in an army of oceanic/citrusy mediocre releases that overcrowd the fragrance display areas all around the world. But all the nice things kind of end there. It is not a home-run, groundbreaking, brave, sparking up discussion, the urge to go and have sex etc. sort of fragrance. And those are the emotions that I am so used to feeling after applying Tom Ford creations. The opening is light, like his website also mentions with a heavy layer of lemon. It is safe, comforting and clean. I get the bergamot, mandarin and maybe a little basil, yet there is absolutely no traces of violet, or ginger in this. Then I get more citrus, slight amber and a warm base of woods.

That is it, the end all/be all of this scent. It is not layered, yet comfortable enough to wear everyday right?

WRONG!

The scent disappears after 15 minutes. I swear that is how long it takes, even if you empty the whole bottle. Where is the Black Orchid or Gucci Pour Homme longevity? How am I supposed to wear a fragrance everyday when it disappears after only two minutes? It is very inconsiderate, to my taste. It is almost like saying, "this is my cheapest fragrance, so this is what you get in return: reapply like every two minutes". The bottle is chic as usual, and we all know the controversial ad images, but this is his first release I am not entirely happy about.
28 April 2008

Voile de Fleur by Tom Ford

Like many other people, I love Black Orchid. I am a guy, and I am using it with great pleasure. It is a unique scent I consider, so when I learned that there was gonna be a second edition of the gorgeous scent, I got very excited. Black Orchid is so heavy, which is something I am in love with, yet I had always expected a lighter version to be created, to reach to even bigger masses, and turn in profit. Yet I was scared that it was gonna be some crappy watered down summer edition, which would strip it from its soul and make it another sweet fruity/citrusy summer edition.

I am very pleased to say, Black Orchid Voile de Fleur is not that edition. It is super creamy, enriched with a heavy dose of milk and white flowers like gardenia, jasmine, or Casablanca lilies I think they are. This is strictly feminine. Patchouli seems to be much less in this edition, yet it keeps the dark sweetness of the original scent to the core. Kind of reminds me a much thicker Gucci Envy, with a foundation of very dark notes which still includes a healthy dose of Vanilla. In many ways, it is very different from Black Orchid, even though they are definite sisters. I think Tom Ford could have released this scent as something totally separate from Black Orchid with maybe in a white bottle or something. It is not a silly sidebar 'limited' edition to me. It is just as potent, unique and magical as Black Orchid.

It should have perhaps been called 'White Orchid' because of its heavy white floral notes. As a guy, it is impossible to find a good scent with these notes, which are being rightfully seen as very very feminine: at the top of the pyramid of feminine scents I think. Yet, I love these smells: they remind me of my childhood in a way. Make no mistake, this fragrance is not as innocent as a 'childhood smell' though -it is indescribably sexy once again- yet it is a little more familiar than Black Orchid.

Another Thumbs Up to Mr. Ford, and keep them coming.
28 April 2008

Black Orchid by Tom Ford

This is the first women's fragrance I bought. Saks says that this is unisex, but it requires quite a stretch to accept this as unisex to my taste. Nonetheless, I adore this scent. I love everything about it: the opening, how thick and syrupy the scent presents itself, how it sticks on your skin and totally transforms itself to something unique.

It is an unmistakably heavy scent, and I can detect it anywhere I go when someone wears it. On the elevator, at a club, outside, no matter how crowded the place is, you can always feel if Black Orchid is present. Like I said, it is very thick. That being said, the scent on my skin doesn't remain too sweet, as many people complain about the fragrance. It transforms something quite spicy, and erotic. It is very dark. The black currant note is quite heavy in the opening, and I can also detect some bergamot, which gives it a very very slight citrusy note to my nose. I never had the chance to smell a pure ' black truffle note' as a scent, so I don't know what that smells like in particular, yet that anonymous scent that hits my nose along with deep woods and heavy florals can be the truffle in question, I suppose.

The most gorgeous state of the fragrance is the drydown though, it is almost cruel to the nose. It is so seductive and erotic, it is nothing short of orgasmic. I claim there have been few scents that could handle vanilla this well. (Another one is Opium pour Homme, I think) It settles into something warm, familiar, close to skin, and very hazy. Yes, it is sweet, make no mistake, yet it is a very sophisticated, well thought out and sublime sweet. It is not 'delicious' like Lolita Lemplicka, Chpard Wish, or that monstrosity called Angel and the masculine versions of all that I have listed. Blacl Orchid doesn't smell like food, or desert.

I love this scent, it is a gorgeous creation from top to finish. It will always be a part of my fragrance collection. It is not just the fragrance that is unique, it is the whole experience. I feel like the great sultans or princesses of Arabia, or geishas of Japan must have smelt like this. It is an ultimate elixir. In general I love Tom Ford's creations, yet this is the first scent since his unmatched YSL m7 that I have been this excited about. He really shines in creating dark scents with flower accords and wood accents. Not only the scents, but also the bottles and packaging are also always gorgeous. The Black Orchid bottle, gorgeous like every fragrance bottle he designed, is on the masculine side, yet also very user friendly. You can carry it anywhere, and it doesn't 'age' with time, look tarnished and all. Being skinny and curved, the bottle looks decadent and very soignee. It is onyx black with a gold plate on top, proclaiming the mysterious name. First I thought 'Black Orchid' was a tacky name, but now I am kinda used to it.

If you want a unique experience, you must test this scent. Whether you like it or not, you WILL have some sort of an opinion about the scent, which makes this a very special creation. It has an identity, and it sparks up discussion, because it is very different. Must test before buying though, unless you are buying it only for the gorgeous bottle.

28 April 2008

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

I am a guy who has recently started to spice up my fragrance wardrobe with feminine/androgynous scents. In fact, my first purchase was Black Orchid (even though Saks says that it's unisex, I mean, come on!!! It is so not). I also enjoy using fragrances like Must de Cartier Pour Homme, Narciso Rodgriuez for him, and Prada Amber Pour Homme, which are mens fragrances described by many as quite girlie. Yet I like them and I think some men can pull it off. I also enjoy women experimenting with mens scents as well. It is not like you are gonna grow a penis, right?

Well, in terms of Oud Wood, you actually might.

A friend of mine(a guy) is obsessed with it, and I must say, it suits him. Not to mention that the scent announces his arrival like 3 minutes before he enters the room, but it is a very heavy, woodsy, dark, and even maybe sexy (he is a guy, and a friend, I don't think I'll ever find him sexy even if he wears Gucci Eau de Parfum:)). It doesn't transform at all though, it is quite one note. But a good note at that.

So what is my complaint?

Tom Ford tries hard to be the new olfactory god of this generation of perfumers and he has released this 'scent library' for everyone who is rich enough to buy. No gender specific. But from the first spray of this 'perfume', there is absolutely no doubt that THIS IS A MENS FRAGRANCE. There is nothing soft, feminine, or even slightly so, sparkling about it. It is quite mascuiline in every sense. I don't wanna offend any woman who is using this, but let's be realistic: If Samsara, or Shalimar are not men's fragrances, then this cannot be a woman's scent. PERIOD. I know girls who use m7, or even Chanel Pour Monsieur, even those are less gender specific than this.

I am just very annoyed by the marketing technique that Tom Ford follows. This is a men's scent. At the same time, I cannot imagine any guy wearing Purple Patchouli thinking that it is unisex. If you are ballsy enough, be my quest, like I said I love my Black Orchid, yet don't be fooled to think that Oud Wood or Purple Patchouli can be classified as unisex scents. That being said, Oud Wood is one of the more successful scents that the TOM FORD PRIVATE BLEND collection has to offer. By a mile.

27 April 2008

Casran by Chopard

I agree with PaulSC, it is also the first blind buy that i regret. The thing is, I am (as many other people on this board), use many fragrances at the same time, sometimes even layer them carefully to experiment. I tend to prefer dark and heavy orientals mostly, and I thought in my collection now I just needed something slightly lighter, a bit androgynous, and powdery that not that many people know of. So after reading the comments, Casran seemed like the perfect choice.

It is powdery alright, and something like-of-which I had never owned before. But I am disappointed with the lack of personality this scent unfortunately displays. Believe it or not, on my skin it smells a bit like Hypnotic Poison after a while (which I love as a woman's scent) yet it is synthetic in such a weird way. The opening is very weird, and the drydown is completely clueless. After the first 10 minutes, it settles into a lukewarm powdery feel, yet that one synthetic not is ever stagnant. The rum and chocolate I can smell pretty easily and benzoin is also present with the mix of the other two. At the end though, it is a dry vanilla scent that has absolutely no significant identity.

The thing is, it is very difficult to describe this scent, especially in a man's fragrance vocabulary of terms. It is just very interesting, and unique, yet I don't know if it is in a good way. I like it as something that I revisit once in a while in my over 20 fragrance collection, but a signature scent this will never be.



PS: The bottle, and the color of the juice is perfection. It takes a while to understand what the hell is going on with the bottle, and it's liquid lines. In that, the juice and the bottle match perfectly. It looks and feels like a jeweler's fragrance.
27 April 2008
 
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