Perfume Reviews

Reviews by flathorn

Total Reviews: 295

Fleur de Thť Rose Bulgare by Creed

I tried this before 2007 so my thoughts of it are from then, and whatever formulation was current. I know that it was reformulated around 2009, and lost some fans because of it.

It sounded like perfection to me, everything a Pisces would like. And I did. Yet even though it was a wonderful watercolor version of rose - light, lilting, wet, clear, unpowdered - there was something about the rose-green tea combo that I began to tire of. It was surprisingly long-lasting, so that winsome, delicate aura was backed by the unsettling feeling of being grabbed and held by vines. But it was an authentic smelling rose, without the hairspray of mainstream roses and I still liked it well enough to buy a decant or two.

FDTRB was well-modulated. The old-style citrus top was mild in tone, in keeping with the entire fragrance and the green tea provided a vague mossiness that appealed to me. I liked that the drydown was a light, non-musky watery ambergris gray echo of the entire fragrance.

But as I started considering whether to buy a bottle, two things convinced me otherwise - one was that I didnít quite care for a green tea-nuanced rose enough for the cost (the taif rose, which is fairly green, isnít my favorite rose presentation either), and secondly the Creed bullshit. It was only available in 250ml bottles, and it was my first encounter with purposeful exclusivity in fragrances. So it made me realize it wasnít a must-have. I passed on it, and didnít really regret it. I found rose fragrances later that make me happier. Another pretty nice green-tea rose at a fraction of the cost is Paul Smith Rose, which has a violet-tea top instead of old-fashioned citrus.

Itís still a nice classic green-tea rose (or was in 2007) if this style appeals to you, but itís by no means smashing.
20th April, 2019

Malik al Taif by Areej le Dorť

Taif rose is one of my least favorite rose essential oils. Itís a damascena rose grown in a specific area of the world and in a specific environment that brings out the green aspect of rose, along with a kind of tart or lemony note, a sort of geranium character. Itís kind of angular, which I donít mind at all, but it has a built-in bugaboo Iíve always had with the damascena rose, especially the distilled oil. It often has, to my nose, a sort of vegetal note, an old dying rose water in a vase swampy note. It effectively ruins an essential oil for me when thatís present. Taif rose can highlight that note because of its character and bring a sort of metallic edge in also. Many donít have this swamp note problem. Itís specific to the person. But it makes taif rose a bit of a landmine for me.

Malik al Taif has this presence and note. I struggled to smell the rest of the fragrance while this was going on, but had difficulty. I applied it to a card which made it a little better, but only a little, so I could try and discover this fragrance more. It has a classic combo of taif rose, saffron and oud I would have liked to explore; and see where the rounder, softer note of the Indian rose fit in, along with the musk. On the card, the rose did soften in the drydown, become less sharp, and make a marriage with the musk in a long-lasting drydown, so on some this may be beautiful. But I smelled the dying rose note until the end. If youíre one who has difficulty with natural taif rose, this fragrance may be, like for me, ultimately unwearable.

Buying a sample of a taif rose fragrance was a risk, but it was still worth it. Though itís thumbs-down for me, Iím giving it a neutral for the pleasure of the ride through the landscape of an old-style, non-French fragrance.
18th April, 2019 (last edited: 19th April, 2019)

Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

I thought this might be another incense, resin, wood and leather fragrance, which I love in general principle but which can be derivative now. Or loud. Or clumsy. Or lacking vision. I wasnít prepared for the big, perfectly blended jasmine/immortelle component which made this one smashing. The magic the perfumer created with the dance of the floral and earthy accords gave Anubis mystery, depth and richness. Itís as if this was the alchemy I was always longing to happen with this type of fragrance, but didnít know it. When the topnotes started unfolding, I instinctively said ďYesĒ. It has a roundedness to it thatís satisfying and balanced.

It has a somewhat close but strong sillage for two hours, turning into more of a skin scent after three hours, though still quite smellable from 6-8 inches away. When I moved I could smell the light sillage. Anubis stayed at this level the rest of the day, becoming quite enjoyable in its soft resin, wood, incense, leather and floral drydown, because it didnít become too simplified.
17th April, 2019 (last edited: 18th April, 2019)
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Fume by Hendley Perfumes

Fume is dealing in the same territory as Norne, as has been mentioned in many reviews. But their construction is different enough it feels like they started from the same center and headed off in opposite directions. Norne is more abstracted, Fume is evocative, a fragrance memory. The conifer wood ash came through to perfection and took me back to times and places I smelled the original. It is wonderfully spot-on, naturalistic. But Iím not looking for a snapshot of an ashy campfire, a Demeter fragrance. Fume has a lot more to say than campfire ash.

As mrmorel wrote so perfectly, it is a forest fire chypre. Being a chypre-holic, this fulfilled a perpetual fragrance need in me. How perfect an idea, how obvious - extending the chypre into campfire territory. There may be others like this I somehow missed. If so, Iíd love to try them - Fume is the only one Iíve come across that is so evocative, yet uses the chypre pattern to such advantage. One of the beauties of oakmoss was its wonderful ashy grrr. This fragrance plays on that aspect beautifully. It seems a little inspired really, with itís smoky Lapsang Souchong note smoothing out the raw ash.

Itís a long-lasting, close-to-the-skin fragrance that wafts as an ashy smoke because it has air, which Norne does not. I thought this might be a fragrance I would like smelling in the sampler vial from time to time as an environmental snapshot, but instead I want to wear it as a perfume, because it creates a realistic, evocative smoldering campfire note, and takes it further into chypre territory. Really nice.
10th April, 2019 (last edited: 11th April, 2019)

Mandala by Masque

I had real difficulty with Mandala, a reaction with some aroma-chemical or other, that produced a gassy, urinous smell. I gave it some time to settle on my skin, but that only re-inforced it. I havenít had a reaction of this sort with a fragrance since CB I Hate Perfume Musk, which produced the same piercing gassiness. Beyond salvation.
10th April, 2019

Les Heures de Parfum - XI L'Heure Perdue by Cartier

Iím getting a distinct fragrance echo with LíHeure Perdue. The perfumer said the fragrance refers to childhood, Proust and memory; a riff on home, via vanilla. She said it may carry the ghost of a LíHeure Bleue for the 21st century, that ability it has to play with memory.

So, saying that, the upfront association I get is with Jicky, minus the civet. Sitting with LíHeure Perdue a bit conjures up a wafting thread back to LHB, because of a vague heliotrope. And perhaps that is the deeper path with this. The vanilla here isnít the trite foody one, or a sweet comfort note, but the vanilla of Jicky. It seems a little like a meander through Guerlain vanilla; a deconstruction, then reconstruction into a 21st century perfume, a little playful. I donít usually follow such a tenuous theoretical thread like this, yet it makes sense of this fragrance to me, given the Jicky vibe and the LíHeure Bleue echo.

The strong Jicky vibe permeates this fragrance. It opens with a kind of vanilla-rubber chord, easy-going and easy to wear. Along the way it starts picking up heliotrope and mimosa. The drydown is a soft slide to a slightly vanillic nut at the end,with a smidge of sweetness. The Jicky association stays until the end. I like this fragrance more, the more I wear it - on my first wearing I was neutral. Comfortable to wear, suitable probably everywhere. Very unisex. Subtle and clever.
It last around eight hours - after seven hours the drydown gradually starts fading into an echo.
09th April, 2019 (last edited: 11th April, 2019)

Ella by Arquiste

High, bright, frisky and pretty. A cross between a girl and a woman. A kind of classic/70ís floral chypre-ish type.

Its ethos reminds me of Diorella (though not itís construction or genre), that playful irreverence. Ella is a more floral fragrance, more sensual, a bit of a tease. I appreciate its lack of powder - when I wear this outside in cool air (32įF), which always highlights powder in a fragrance, Ella stays clear and bright (its floral accord is heightened by the thinning in cool air). So thereís a certain lightness to it that beguiles and creates a more youthful quality. This isnít created by citruses, but by its clearness. A swirl of cigarette smoke adds to this fun.

Not heavy, or serious, something the more hot vanillic fragrances of the 70ís were. I think Ella just has too much air in it to qualify, though really this fragrance can go anywhere it wants. Ella escapes a big woody-amber-musky drydown, so for me it stays true to its ethos. Itís sensual more than sexy, though sexy is in there too. I really enjoy wearing this fragrance - itís very pretty, not a diva or self-serious, and I like itís sense of fun.
08th April, 2019 (last edited: 09th April, 2019)

Breath of God by B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful

What a rush. A lot of people described the cornucopia of smells that come spilling out the first 20 minutes. I could describe my experience also, but donít think itís necessary, except to say itís like the Void opening up and spilling out a cacophony of smells with no association, on a dark curtain of a backdrop that allows it all to happen. The background is important, like the shadow and negative space in a painting.
BOG reminds me of the scenes in ĎHitch-Hikerís Guide to the Galaxyí when they engage the shipís Improbability Drive, and morph into all manner of unlikely things - couches, flowers, etc. This fragrance is like that.
SteveofCaleyís review made me laugh - I think he totally got it. Another two reviews really gave this fragrance context. Leontion said it smelled like the potions class at Hogwarts. Then RichNTacoma added it smelled like the perfumed sheets after a middle earth love-fest between a dark wizard and a fairy. These cracked me up; then when I sniffed, they were right! Fantastic associations really. It says something about this fragrance that these are the images that spring to mind. Much better than trying to parse this fragrance.
Perhaps you can take this fragrance seriously, but I think itís genius is in the free-association that happens, on the scale it happens. I have it for the enjoyment it gives. Thereís nothing else like it.
29th March, 2019 (last edited: 21st April, 2019)

Eau Parfumťe au Thť Noir by Bulgari

Au The Noir operates at the level of a sophisticated smoulder. From the sensual opening, a silken purr of oud-rose-tea powder, through the heart of soft oud-rose-leather smoke, to a drydown that deepens its beautiful dark but soft sophistication, it is a refined fragrance. Its submerged floral tea darkness is urbane, smooth and uplifting. The powdered smoke, tea and leather drydown are a hymn to the beauty and balance of a well-done dark drydown. It possesses a certain captivating calm, and as it ages, lays down and becomes part of my aura, incense-like. I would like to find an incense that smells like this. Itís very unisex - I love it on me, and if anyone, man or woman, were wearing this, I would be leaning in to inhale that intoxicating smoke.
28th March, 2019 (last edited: 05th April, 2019)

S-ex by S-Perfume

In a way, S-ex reminds me of Womanity. The names gives them a spinning point. Itís pretty conceptualized, but apparently started with the desire to incorporate, if not wrap the fragrance around, a sperm note. A salty chord is there from beginning to end, and the fragrance evolves with it in tow, from a vinyl calone-like opening, which to me often smelled like the hilarious pheromone fragrances you can find on pheromone websites, to a vinyl leather chord. It may be a space-age leather, but thereís definitely robot sex along the way.
Really, like Alfarom noted, it has a definite camp, pop-art, playful absurdity to it. But it actually has a pretty good structure and evolution. So if youíre taken by the vinyl-ness of it, itís a credible fragrance. Letís just not confuse this with carnal or sensual sex, our favorite types. Everything else though, is fair game. Fortunately I was saved from deciding whether I liked it or not by a sour note that developed after three hours, so the decision was made for me.
26th March, 2019 (last edited: 05th April, 2019)

Au Coeur du Desťrt by Tauer

This is a smashing fragrance! I wanted to speak only about Au Coeur du Desťrt, but itís impossible to separate it from the association to its sibling LíAir du Dťsert Marocain, so Iíll say this. Everything that lovers of LADDM say about it is what I experience with Au Coeur du Desťrt, but not with LíAir. It was a surprise to me that all the descriptions of LíAir fit Au Coeur instead. I always wanted to experience what others described, of the beauty of the soaring sense of dry, wide open space. But the vanilla and amber in it never affect me that way. From what I notice, the vanilla was mostly taken out and the amber reduced or associated with balsams instead in Au Coeur du Desťrt. I like the more natural, cleaner balsamic notes as opposed to the absolutely ubiquitous vanilla.

Only one other fragrance gives me the sense of adventure Au Coeur does and that is my long-time favorite, Bandit. I cherish the friskiness of Bandit, even though itís not as effective in its new formulation. It always made me want to put on leather, jump on a motorcycle and head off toward the horizon. You know how youíve always been looking for a fragrance to express something, but didnít know what that was until you smelled it? Au Coeur gave me a journey I didnít quite know I craved until I smelled it - a dust-tinged adventure, rough and casual, bright and golden; radiating dry wood and resins that I want to always breathe in my life, opening up the sky above me and the air around me until I find myself in a spacious place above the things I hate most about travel - the hubbub, the buzz, the details and schedules, the bustle and disconnect; the crush, almost, of the air around you - and instead gives me the journey I imagined, the existential journey. Au Coeur then, is huge because of its space-creating ability - I can entirely inhabit it. I canít do that with many, so that is the peculiarity of this fragrance for me. Perhaps LíAir does this same thing for others? Itís likely from the descriptions of reviewers.

Of course, the quality of the space makes all the difference. I find in its shimmering bone-dry woods, lean and clear resins and balsams, a calm centerdness that lifts me out of my head, out of the buzz, out of the city, out of traffic and electronics, to where things become clean and clear, and makes my journey more what I want it to be instead of staring at only what is before me. It gives me the vast desert space.

I canít help but be struck by the understanding this was one purpose of many ancient Ďperfumesí - the consciousness shift, the spiritual space opening, the transport to another level, the absolute beauty. It is one of the abilities of essential oil formulations to this day and itís a wonderful thing. Natural fragrances have struggled to become more than marginalized in the face of synthetic commercial fragrances, pooh-poohed partly through its own lack of care, but dismissed a little, not perhaps understanding its psychoactive abilities, its deep touching of what fragrance is truly about, or perhaps deeming that a subject aside; yet when a synthesized fragrance comes along that can reproduce something close to that, weíre awestruck. Iím aware of the irony, even in myself.

I have an unreserved love for Au Coeur because it gives me that experience, probably much like others get in LíAir. This is the reason I wear and seek out fragrances, though Iíve felt it few times. It makes this timeless for me, neither male nor female, young nor old.
24th March, 2019 (last edited: 09th April, 2019)

Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

A fantastic, if nostalgic, perfume. The opening was ornate, over the top, abundant floral sweet-notes (unashamedly pretty and feminine, not playing it cool or coy), setting such a gorgeous stage I hoped what came after would do it justice. And it did. It developed a delicious grrr underneath that gave it the depth I was really longing for with such great florals, becoming quite sensual, fulfilling its promise. How perfect is that?

The underlying simmer was a big cuminy spice note, fragrant, warm and opopanax-like in its lightly burnished warmth, a great foil to the wonderfully feminine florals.

The other basenotes gradually coming in really connected with the cumin, developing a worthy counterpoint to the strong emotive florals, not exactly blending but creating a sort of high-low layering, like two parts of a choir that you can distinguish easily yet hear their combined song. The sillage was deliciously darkened floral, but if I smelled my skin, it was predominantly cuminy, spicy basenotes.

It had a drydown that delivered and developed beautifully for hours. There have been so many fragrances with disappointing or disappearing drydowns anymore, I always take note if the fragrance has a good bottom. It means enough to me that I will buy a perfume that has an excellent drydown over a fragrance I may enjoy the top half more. I think I enjoy a good extended drydown most in a fragrance, and theyíre fairly rare in newer compositions.

Salome, though a big oriental-styled fragrance, didnít have a lot of cloying vanilla, the thing I never cared for in orientals (think 80ís) and was clearer, leaner, and earthier, so it actually seemed somewhat floriental. The fragrance I think of most in relation to this is Bal A Versailles, but I believe I like Salome more. It is a little cleaner and more upfront, and the florals in this sing. Itís a very long lasting fragrance, continuing a full day and into the next morning. Really smashing, but use discernment on where you wear.
23rd March, 2019 (last edited: 05th April, 2019)

Harem Rose by Fort and Manlť

A winsome vetiver and cashmere-dusted rose from beginning to end, appealing and really pretty. It begins more rose and ends more cashmere.
Fragrances can open very 3D - rounded, full, alive. Harem Rose is one of those, as are many. And as is the case with this phenomenon, it flattens or thins out as it settles. But the cashmere note is always a radiant fuzz on my skin, so it gives the fragrance soft aliveness on its own, when the fresher notes dry off.
Harem Rose wafts around the body in a lovely way. You donít want strong projection with this one (an over- and mis-used idea), considering the cashmere note (actually one can go further and say most perfume inappropriateness comes from the wrong idea of the value of projection in fragrances).
Harem Rose is a sylvan rose, sensual but not carnal.
20th March, 2019 (last edited: 26th March, 2019)
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Pleasures by Estťe Lauder

What a surprise this was. Apparently I missed the buzz about it. I wasnít expecting soap - cool, clean, green-floral soap. But beyond that, a detergent powder feel, that sparky, up-your-nose reaction. I then read some reviews, as the functional fragrance cross-over was confusing me, and found that yes, this was the first fragrance in the 90ís to use soap as its theme. A new musk with a high, sparky quality crossed with florals to create a soapy note, allowing the making of a Ďcleaní fragrance.
After living through the 80ís, I understand the craving for palate-cleansing fragrances then, to chase all that oriental perfume goo away. It must have been very refreshing. I missed all that, so am wondering how it works for me in the 2000teens. It doesnít smell half bad, really, and I get it if someone wants to extend that clean soapy vibe all day long. But most who love it, talk about its fantastic floral component, and I donít really get that. Both lily and peony have always smelled artificial on me, so thereís no help to be had from them. Ultimately, though inoffensive, it ends up smelling too much like powdered clothes detergent to me. Iím tempted to put it in my laundry rinse and see how it works as a rinsing agent scent.
15th March, 2019 (last edited: 21st March, 2019)

HermŤssence Osmanthe Yunnan by HermŤs

It is a flush of a quiet, smooth earthy floral on my skin; in character, smelling like the remnant of a scented bath product when stepping out of a shower. It is as easy to dismiss Osmanthe Yunnan, as the post-bath fragrance. I like having a skin ambiance at times, as opposed to a perfume. It exists with my aura and thoughts better than fragrances that demand attention; more a fragrance for living in.
What becomes important, then, is whether itís a match for my skin and living space. Osmanthe Yunnan is nice, itís easy-going. But at this level itís competing with natural blends designed specifically for the energy body at better prices. Some of those, healthy and supportive of the skin/aura, also have fantastic subtle fragrances, like a spa treatment. And they feel great.
I like OY, but because of the niche it inhabits, itís almost subliminal presence, I might often prefer a more aura-oriented fragrance. But I still like it, though not FBW.
11th March, 2019 (last edited: 11th April, 2019)

Le Cri de la LumiŤre by Parfum d'Empire

Really quite lovely Iris Rose. But itís primary character on me is of a powdered aldehyde. Itís not an aldehyde bomb by any means, and the quality of the fragrance makes me want to wear it in spite of that, which is a compliment in itself. I love the way the notes dance and play with each other producing a scintillating effect. I just find myself wishing I didnít have to deal with scintillating powder.
I find a curious effect on my skin, sometimes, when I wear a fragrance with powder and aldehydes such as this. Instead of radiating, some seem to swirl in my space, as if each was an engine for the other. It has somewhat of an energizing feel, but after a while that interaction between the two will start to feel like the primary dance and the aroma-chemical notes the support. I desire the reverse. And feel that way about Le Cri.
In spite of this, I think itís a light joyful, beautiful floral with good materials which produces an air of class.
10th March, 2019

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

This is a nuclear, big overflowing floral, that will announce itself before and after youíre there if you unleash it. So itís capable and willing to be abused. In spite of that I like its fragrance - kind of sultry and pretty. Itís a really solid perfume, well-built - if it wasnít as well constructed it would be histrionic. But my question is whether I need another fragrance capable of perfume inappropriateness.
Nowhere in any fragrance pyramid is tuberose listed, yet I keep getting a really strong tuberose vibe, actually like itís the main floral component. I take tuberose a fragrance at a time. Depending on the way itís dealt with, I either like itís dense butteriness, or find it unbreathable after a while. But I always find it sensual. The combination of tuberose (if thatís what it is), violets and berries is attractive, but it may end up being too tuberose for me. I was looking for a little more insolence than it has, some actual sassiness, though it definitely has some breezy attitude. Though it matters little for what it is, Iím not certain I want to make this a part of my life. After a day of wearing it I get a little tired of it, as itís just not me and the pretence is too great.
08th March, 2019 (last edited: 11th March, 2019)

Chyprť Extraordinaire by Roja Dove

Chyprť Extraordinaire really is over the top - opulent, effusive, expensive, its personality is a fog of the gilded and grand. I guess the intent is to pull out all the stops. But that doesnít guarantee wearability, which it isnít on me. For all the feeling of no expenses spared, I hate to say it doesnít have a sense of style or sophistication. Ouch, thatís being mean I guess, but the price on this makes me feel kind of mean. I have to wade through a lot of effusive new-chypreness with it. Which isnít what Iím looking for. To bypass my prejudice, I asked myself if I would buy it if it were reasonably priced. Even then, Iím not sure I would.
Iím a chypre person and by that I mean old-style chypre, and by that I mean oakmoss. I miss it so much. It does away with the fluff you see here and in so many Ďnew chypresí. Itís loss is incalculable and the reason I almost gave up fragrances. The void it left hasnít really been filled yet, but I have hopes its loss will spur some new intelligent, sensual basenotes to fill its place, perhaps the new Ďcleaned-upí oakmoss. For me oakmoss was just so intelligent and edgy and satisfied so many dark needs. It has a sensuality musk, wood and the new synthetic animalics donít possess. There were few more intelligent notes.
So thatís one thing lacking in this grand, opulent chypre - intelligence. I feel that lack wearing it, as I do light inconsequential fragrances. This isnít a young-versus-old determination. Chypre Extraordinaire has some delicious notes, some sweet memory-filled resonances, but little discretion and little edge.
On the plus side, its showy character would suit a large effusive personality. It has good quality materials - they feel authentic. It has only moderate aldehydes, so it isnít a rude fragrance, just large, bordering on bombastic. Its drydown is long-lasting, a plus during a time of disappearing drydowns. So I canít give it a thumbs-down - it has several nice qualities, and is delicious. But its worst quality is its price and that it reminds me of what I miss.
04th March, 2019 (last edited: 15th March, 2019)

Erawan by Parfums Dusita

This is the first fragrance I smelled that revolves around an exploration of Liatris. When I think of it that way, Erawon becomes understandable because all the descriptors used to define Liatris are here. Its notes come out gradually as the fragrance matures, in a progression. The other notes which support or modulate this exploration are well-chosen. It is more than a botanical exploration a la Demeter - it has character, but the exposition gives Erawon coherence.
The first notes I smelled right out of the bottle were a wafting of tobacco against an herbaceous green curtain, quite nice. Itís my favorite note of the entire fragrance, but is ephemeral, a temporary haze rather than anything solid. That was my first clue of what I was dealing with, as Liatris has subtle tobacco off-notes.
It morphed into a curious almost candied-violet note (the lily of the valley? If so an odd one) but fairly quickly a warm hay note started diffusing the fragrance. The main odor constituent of Liatris (Deertongue) is coumarin, which crystallizes on the dried leaves. That hay note is the big player in Erawon and stays until the end.
It gradually becomes more vanillic, another note present in Liatris, and it produces a kind of honeyed herbal Liatris. At one point I also start smelling a glimmer of the root beer note Liatris exhibits, which sort of translates into a cocoa. The cedar is subtle in the drydown, a nice backbone to the warm, sweetened herbaceous hay drydown instead of a separate note - I donít think ĎCedarí.
The drydown is long-lasting, naturalistic and easy to wear. Its naturalness is a small pleasure on its own, kind of comfortable and lazy, with an appealing casualness, even aplomb. If I liked coumarin more I might revel in this warm late sun on an unmanicured lawn ambiance. But itís never been my cup of tea.
I donít know whether to give a thumbs up or neutral. Itís a 6 out of 10 for me, though itís worth trying for the interesting exposition of Liatris. And hay lovers could be totally smitten with it.
04th March, 2019 (last edited: 15th March, 2019)

Miss Charming by Juliette Has a Gun

I like the fruity, youthful rose in this fragrance. Itís light, somewhat inconsequential, a summer moment, free of seriousness, though somewhat generic. But thereís a familiar metallic, burnt note that comes out after a few minutes, a reaction I have to an aroma-chemical in either the rose or berry. Iím familiar with this reaction, as it happens often enough. It makes this fragrance unwearable for me.
04th March, 2019

Mito Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo

I relearned a fact with Mito, that fragrances are influenced by their environment - the temperature, humidity and skin. And some fragrances more than others. Mito brought this back to me.
I tried it in a winter house, which has low humidity (dry air). My skin is dryer and cooler. The florals in Mito opened full-blast along with the green notes, totally front and center, making the green their backdrop on stage. The florals were lovely but strong. I wanted more of the green others talked about. I wondered if it wasnít blooming as fully as it could, so I tried it on later after a shower, in warm moist air, on warm moist skin. It really blossomed and the greens came out in wonderful play with the florals, scintillating and engaging. In the opening thereís blended citrus in the flowers, sort of summer bright, lighthearted with the leaf and galbanum.
I tend to like abstract florals, which arenít one note or another and Mito is that, an excellent blended casual loveliness. The floral intensifies in the heart note, and is sweet and bewitching. It gathers some 70ís ethos, those perfumes with their pretty sweet florals overlying pretty sweet ambers. And that indefineable casualness that made 70ís fragrances so approachable and wearable. Yet it isnít dated. It feels slightly ambered to me, but isnít.
The drydown keeps that casual floral air really well. You know how many modern, lesser fragrances disappoint so much in the drydown. Mito has a very satisfying, long lasting, sweet casual floral drydown, which makes it such a solid fragrance. This is a nice, approachable, easy to like fragrance.
03rd March, 2019

Aventus for Her by Creed

Immediately on start-up, I got a whiff of the same sport-base fragrance I did in Aventus for Men, the one that rendered it kind of cheap smelling. It was even worse in this one, unpleasant and harsh. I must be having a reaction to an aroma chemical thatís common to both formulations.
It made it hard to distinguish notes, let alone nuances. So this is pretty much an unwearable fragrance for me.
28th January, 2019 (last edited: 29th January, 2019)

Nude Moderne by Aether Arts

This is a nice white musk. I had problems finding ones that work on my skin, then found two within one month. I feel like I just checked Ďwhite muskí off my imaginary perfume laundry list, which has been long overdue. The other I tried, Amouage Musk Abyadh Attar, is beautiful but more than four times the cost.
This sample was an oil, and it has that sink-into-the-skin-and-become-part-of-you vibe, which I think makes a white musk itís most attractive. Otherwise it will follow you around like a cloud. Most white musks turn harsh on me, but this one stayed soft and true to the end. Very nice. And it has great longevity, close to a full day.
The price on this one is good, so I donít mind applying generously if I want to amp up its gentle muskiness.
24th January, 2019 (last edited: 25th January, 2019)

X for Women by Clive Christian

This is a great fragrance, a classic, rather than the more-hyped CC Woman No.1. I would say No.1 is for showing, X is for wearing.
It has beautiful quality florals that donít turn synthetic, sugary or thin in any part of the wearing, and are balanced and somewhat abstracted, in a classical manner. The peach didnít predominate on me - instead it gave the florals some voluptuousness. My skin doesnít always register peach notes, which is what kept Mitsouko from totally winning me. I think the peach must have made the difference between nice and sublime in that one.
Iím partial to an authentic, high quality jasmine-rose accord - It may be my favorite floral blend, and that is what came out on my skin in X, to my pleasure. As the opening dried down and I began smelling the floral accord at the heart of this fragrance, I fell in love. The tuberose and narcissus give a slight masculine moderation I like (masculine florals, yum), quite supportive with their slight green backbone, barest smidge of buttery earthiness; they got along very well. But my eye was on the jasmine and rose. X stayed with this accord until the end, to my luck. Iíve become so used to disillusionment, of finding a fragragrance note I love in the beginning veer another direction, intent on evolvement at the expense of a central core, or collapse and disappear in a disappointing fashion.

X for Women was long-lasting on my skin, most of a day. It has moderate sillage, but I donít care for fragrances that project into otherís space so it was good for me, not loud in any way, unlike Woman No.1, yet its fragrance is very apparent, not timid or pale. The moderate sillage allows it to have an easy lingering quality, so every time I moved my arm, I caught a whiff of it. To me that is the most desirable way to smell perfume - glimpses, teases, small looks. A steady on barrage, which I think is most recognized as the elevator experience, has little mystery, and X for Women is best introduced to others as a mystery. It was a pleasure to catch that floral soupÁon. With that, it will do well spraying on your clothing, as it is made to waft in that manner.
This is a classic feminine perfume. Now that many old classics are gone or reformulated with tragic consequences, ones like X are worth seeking out.
Full bottle worthy, though the price seems high, even for what it is.
23rd January, 2019 (last edited: 02nd April, 2019)

Eau Duelle Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

This is fairly different from Eau Duelle edt. It is less lean and clear, with a prominent ambroxan-vanilla-powder ambiance, a people pleasing combination, yet my chypre nose ends up wanting more complexity after wearing it a while because itís a long-lasting fragrance (most of a day). I will probably experiment with layering other fragrances. But on itís own, I can honestly say itís lovely, soft and pleasing, and has a kind quality, which takes it out of a sexual context, except for those men driven wild by ambroxan. I have a male friend who is mad for, of all things, ĎLight Blueí. He adores it, and that note.

I think it would be nice if youíre going to a get-together with mixed people and are looking to be inoffensive. I like it better than the hard-to-object-to clean soapy fragrances which tend to go up my nose.
22nd January, 2019 (last edited: 20th March, 2019)

Musk Abyadh Attar by Amouage

This is a lovely soft version of white musk. Most white musks get unsoft and a bit harsh on me as they devolve, Iím not sure why, but Musk Abyadh Attar doesnít. The combination of musk, vanilla and sandalwood is magic, and retro.
Iím not a fan of vanilla as a stand-alone note, so I was concerned about the part it would play in this. For the first half hour the notes are perfectly blended into a voluptuous white musk cloud. At 45 minutes it becomes a skin scent and if I sniff my skin I can smell the different notes, and the vanilla, but it doesnít dominate, and is an asset . The sillage stays pretty firmly white musk. The skin scent-stage is long lasting, for most of a day.
So this isnít an edgy, feral or rough musk. But itís one that people around you love.
While white musk can never be a signature scent for me, this is probably the best one on my skin, for times when I want to be enveloped in beautiful softness. For those seeking a well-made white musk with a difference.
21st January, 2019 (last edited: 25th January, 2019)

Wild Musk by Coty

This was my sisterís signature scent so I couldnít really wear it, but I liked it nonetheless. It was sort of a quietly sexy musk, with a few more florals than other musks of the day. She smells great in it and doesnít experiment with fragrances, so she still wears it. But she told me her latest bottle is disappointing. Itís a weaker formulation and shifted from the reliable warm, soft prettiness she loved to an echo of that - watered down, and lacking itís sweet soul. Kind of a harsh indictment from someone who loved it.

What do I rate, the vintage or the new formulation? Iím giving a neutral to the present formulation.
21st January, 2019

No. 1 for Women by Clive Christian

Iím capable of spending $800 on a perfume that would leave me breathless, but No.1 for Women is not it.
It has a huge aldehydic opening, floral, powdery and effusive. The pineapple was, like another reviewer said, Ďpineapple puffí, love the phrase. Powdered aldehydes have a certain associative cachet as salon-type fragrances, but that is also their baggage.
After an hour and a half the aldehydes dissipate enough to be able to smell the midnotes, a bright-hearted jasmine/rose, still swirling in soft aldehyde powder. Itís mannered, correct and pretty; a fragrance thatís refined but because of the aldehydes, still in-your-face. There is breadth but not depth in it at this point
I donít care for aldehydes, they give me sneeziness, so I found this perfume uncomfortable to wear. While the fragrance is nice enough, youíre inhaling just as much aldehyde as fragrance, so you have to be an aldehyde fan. I used to consider aldehyde dishonest, a carrier, a dupe, but Iíve come to realize its considerable presence in a fragrance. No.1 brings that home to me. Because when the aldehydes and powder dissipated the fragrance was considerably less, For some fragrances, aldehydes are its backbone.
The drydown after 4 hours was the nicest part, but slight. What remained was a soft sandalwood, tonka base, with little to no florals, but also with no depth
Really, an old-styled aldehydic powder bomb. At this price, you donít need to worry about being cornered by it in an elevator, most likely.
12th January, 2019 (last edited: 07th February, 2019)

Aalacho No. 1 by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

I was wowed by Aalacho. On the second wearing a subtle chord that was tickling my memory kicked in, and I realized - the mineral base of Djedi without the Guerlainade. It has that mournful crypt or castle in the moonlight note that wows those who fall in love with Djedi. If you love Djedi, you owe yourself a sample of Aalacho.
03rd January, 2019

Aventus by Creed

A meh fragrance with a generic backbone.
A sport-fragrance base came out on my my skin, making it fresh in a teenage boy kind of way. It was pleasant, though generic smelling. I wasnít excited about that sample a few years ago.
My husband tried it later, and it was different skin, but the same story. It was generic, bordering on nice-generic. The pineapple topnote, which I looked forward to smelling, melded with the other fruit and lost its distinction, so became a fruit note. The drydown was a little synthetic, and not especially strong or distinctive, so the drydown was lacking, a little disappointing.
Perhaps thereís one note grabbing people who like it? Lacking that, the fragrance doesnít seem special. I suppose chemistry is at work here - heís not really a Creed person apparently, as he hasnít found one he likes yet, or I think is more than nice. None smelled wonderful on him. Most were foggy and indefinite.
It reminds me of an incident a few years back, of smelling a fragrance on a friend that was absolutely smashing, mesmerizing. I asked him what it was, and he said Diesel. After he left I tried all the Diesel fragrances, and none were what I smelled. I can only surmise it was a chemistry match created in heaven - he made that fragrance his own.
The odd thing about Aventus is it registered so little. I thought it would be distinctive, but I have a hard time remembering what it smells like - my husband didnít remember it at all. If Iíve smelled it in a crowd, which I must have, I didnít know it.

Iím personally happy it wasnít something that became a must-have for him, as Iím relieved to step out of the Aventus arena, away from the elbow-to-elbow sweaty mob scene around this.
27th December, 2018 (last edited: 15th March, 2019)