Perfume Reviews

Reviews by foetidus

Total Reviews: 2307

Noir Exquis by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Noir Exquis is pretty much a classic gourmand – it is nicely constructed… smells good. It is discrete and well balanced in sweetness and masculine woodiness. In a way it might be called interesting; for example, that nice coffee / maple syrup combination that peeks through is genuinely unique and quite sniffable. It performs well if one accepts the light discretion of its sillage… It is light, but its longevity is excellent. There are many nice things going on with it, yet it basically ends up missing out on something. Possibly what it’s missing is that quirky little something that is characteristic of most L’Artisans. I can’t fault Noir Exquis too much even though I feel it’s missing something, so I will vote it a thumbs up...

Elegant and undeniably pleasant... excellently constructed and beautifully wearable. For those who like gourmands, Noir Exquis is one that deserves a testing.
22nd August, 2016 (last edited: 27th November, 2016)

Gentlemen Only Casual Chic by Givenchy

The opening’s cardamom is stronger than the ginger and the juniper / cedar screws up the spices in the accord – it would have been a better opening if the spices had stayed longer and the coniferousness had been delayed and reduced, because with the loss of the spices, the juniper and cedar present too much of a plastic, artificial character that I find quite boring. Things don’t improve with the base… I smell no sandalwood and the ambroxan doesn’t seem to be very amberish. Not a very impressive fragrance, and like its progenitor, its chief crime is that Gentlemen Only Casual Chic is uninspired and dull.
22nd August, 2016

Royal Mayfair by Creed

(Hmm! Just read all the reviews of Royal Mayfair here – rogalal is correct: There must be major variations in the changing batches of this fragrance. My 2015 Creed-carded-sample gives me a a Royal Mayfair that is in no way like the white florals discussed in the most recent reviews. Neither is my sample like those mentioned in the five reviews citing rose / pine dominant accords. My sample clearly resembles nine of the first fifteen reviews that mention a prominent eucalyptus dominance.)

It took a couple of attempts for my brain to organize what I was smelling. The opening accord was somewhat woody, somewhat exotic, and somewhat familiar. The pyramid says gin, lime, and pine, but they formed an accord that had a definite element of some restrained aromatics that wouldn’t be explained by the list of opening notes. I finally decided that what was confusing me was the eucalyptus note rising up from the base… This eucalyptus was not the usual Vicks Vapor Rub version, this one’s aromatic delivery comes through at a lower register… It seems more like a slightly aromatic wood note as it does foliage. I’m sure that the woody-eucalyptus note is also made more complex by the opening’s pine and gin notes, which I can detect as subtle enrichers.

I disliked the eucalyptus dominated opening at first but after a few weeks gone by, I have grown to enjoy it very much. The opening is unique; it is warm, rich, woody, even a bit boozy… so intriguingly complex and it lasts from beginning through the middle, and through the base. Throughout the run of the fragrance, I never get a hint of citrus. I can identify the gin, pine, rose, cedar, and, of course, the enjoyable woody eucalyptus note. Discrete sillage and limited longevity.
22nd August, 2016
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Homme (Aoud) by Martine Micallef

The first accord that I get in Aoud Homme is a strong honey / aoud with a rose background. I get very little spice. I’m a bit surprised because when I first saw the list of ingredients, I thought all I would smell would be aoud and rose; but the honey is quite prominent… a strong honey note enlivened with the aromatics of aoud. This first accord lasts impressively. Eventually the honey aoud is augmented by a light sandalwood and stronger patchouli. The honey still is present as it gathers up a bit of cinnamon. As for the other spices in the pyramid, I can’t separate them out. This heart accord is soft, reticent, and moderately aromatic. It is elegant and enjoyable. In five testings I have not experienced much of a gourmet ambiance… only a mildly plush and sweet aromatic texture.

Aoud Homme does, though, remind me of many of the aoud scents I’ve tried – aoud has a way of doing that to scents. I guess this is why I’m having a difficult time saying anything more about Aoud Homme: It’s a well-made scent – quality ingredients, adequate structure, acceptable performance, and pleasing aroma. The problem with Aoud Homme is that there is little that differentiates it from the myriad aoud fragrances that are being produced now – most for less – some for half the cost. This is a very good scent but I think it needs more distinctive characteristics.
22nd August, 2016

Fath Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath

Citrusy and floral… Of the florals, I get a powerful violet note that seriously stands out from the rest of them... too much violet for me. This might very well be a good fragrance for those who like violet notes, but I find Fath Pour L’Homme quite screechy and annoying – too much violet.
22nd August, 2016

31 rue Cambon by Chanel

First sniff told me it’s a Chanel… second sniff said “chypre.” After that it comes across to me as animalic and it doesn’t seem to be the leather that’s responsible for that… The leather is smooth, rich, and satisfying. Perhaps 31 Rue Cambon has a very indolic iris. The iris note is quite strong and it’s the type of iris note that I enjoy very much but often find it unwearable. I having some questions about the references to 31Rue Cambon’s lightness and softness… seems borderline aggressive to me, but in a very good way. Actually, I see 31 Rue Cambon as a top-quality leather scent. It’s a winner and I don’t say that about a leather fragrance very often.
22nd August, 2016

Vitriol d'Oeillet by Serge Lutens

Begins with a strong floral accord suggestive of a modified carnation aroma. When the spices move in, they move to a clove ambiance with the sharpness of cayenne in the background. In spite of the robust spices, the accord retains much of its floral nature. I’m not sure how the two kinds of peppers fit into the composition – I do not smell them directly but they are integrated into the spice composition. Along with the spicy / floral heart notes, there camphor has risen in the background, and the floral / spice / camphor accord remains to the end of the fragrance – I don’t experience the wood base.

Abstract? Yes, but… I would prefer it less nutmeg-metallic and more floral. But in all, this is a enjoyable fragrance – admirably constructed as Lutens’ fragrances usually are and lightly fresh which is a rare performance for a Lutens’ fragrance. A modest thumb's up.
22nd August, 2016

24 Platinum by ScentStory FZE

24 Platinum Elixir opens with a rather scratchy accord that is an almost-disgusting combination of a boozy cheap vermouth/incense and a semi-sweet, fruity cedar: There’s also a warmth to it, probably from the middle’s amber, that doesn’t seem to belong. The fruit note disappears after a minute or two, and what remains for the rest of the fragrance is a textured version of that original petty annoyance.

Actually, I do have something positive to say about this accord: It is is quite original and masculine. I guess it does have a redeeming value. An underlayment of a sweetish, musky leather eventually roils up from the base. I think if they had left out either the sweet or the leather, the projection of this base might have been more desirable. Probably the smell of 24Elixir Platinum is my particular aberration. There’s a decent chance that someone who is not me might enjoy it.
19th August, 2016 (last edited: 18th August, 2016)

24 Go Dark by ScentStory FZE

I don’t smell the fruit listed in the fruity opening … The first notes to show up were the ones listed as heart notes – I get a plasticized sage /pepper / vetiver / patchouli accord that is distinguished by a sour tinge. I don’t directly smell the lavender that is listed as a heart note, but I I’m thinking that the sour edge of the spicy wood accord comes from some sort of lavender note. I don’t find this heart accord especially appealing, but mostly I wonder why I get plastic spicy-wood instead of a fruit-dominated opening. That heart accord lasts for quite a while – about one and a half to two hours. When the base notes show up it is presented as a relatively generic, relatively acceptable vanilla / leather. I don’t smell any musk.

This fragrance isn't very impressive and I don’t understand why anyone would put this particular combination of notes together – the whole development of Go Dark seems completely random... Then again, it certainly isn't a bad fragrance and its price is quite reasonable.
18th August, 2016 (last edited: 20th October, 2016)

24 by ScentStory FZE

Discrete scent… Lavender/ citrus opening that is balanced, subdued, a little spicy, and lasts about fifteen minutes. It’s not the kind of opening I was expecting for such an inexpensive fragrance – it’s a bit more sophisticated than its price might predict. The middle level of 24 lists six spices and the spices come through clearly but with a lot more subtlety than one would think could be accomplished with six spices. I can identify only nutmeg and pepper out of the six listed, but I’m also picking up an element of sweetness and wood from the base. The base comes on fully as a dark wood accord – there’s just enough sweet via amber to tone down the wood resin. As the base loses its sillage, the spice notes of the heart, particularly the nutmeg and to a lesser extent the cinnamon, project an attractive skin scent that lasts for hours… quite sniffable.

I admire what ScentStory has done with this scent. The opening’s lavender and the heart’s mint, caraway, and anise all contribute a natural and enjoyable aromatic aura to the fragrance. ScentStory seems to have found a way to eliminate most of the egregious characteristics that plague so many of the inexpensive fragrances: blatant synthetics. To my nose this fragrance is two or three steps above many in its price range.
18th August, 2016

Oud Palao by Diptyque

I’m no expert at oud notes, but to me this one doesn’t come across to me as synthetic as so many other “ouds” seemed to me. Oud Palau comes on strong with a sharp aromatic, shellac-like smell but the blast settles very quickly to a clear, dominant aromatic underscored by a natural wood note that reminds me of the smell of freshly-sawn oak wood: I can believe that this accord might be a more natural oud note. The oud is dominant in the accord not because it is powerful or aggressive but because the other notes do not have a very strong presence to my nose; in fact the only notes I can (barely) smell are rose, patchouli, and labdanum. Oud Palau is pretty much a solo oud to my nose and yet it doesn't annoy me like so many of the Montale-like performances… I see Oud Palao as very wearable, and I find its performance – sillage and longevity – quite acceptable. It’s very nice but I expected it to be a bit more dramatic or unique… Still, it should be investigated by those interested in oud... I will certainly be revisiting this with the thought of purchasing...
28th July, 2016

Dior Homme Eau for Men by Christian Dior

The opening is similar to those of the previous Dior Hommes... a little lighter and perhaps a bit more citrus. I like it, just as I have enjoyed the others. Within the opening there is already a firm iris note that grows stronger as the citrus wanes. The iris continues until it is joined by the base’s cedar. Of the three levels, the base isn't quite as interesting as the opening and heart, but it is competent enough and I enjoy it anyway.

I really enjoy this flanker of the original Dior Homme. As I have spent more and more time with fragrances, I’ve become increasingly interested in scents that are more subtle-rich than flamboyantly dramatic; I also appreciate ones with a more discreet sillage. This is my favorite of the Dior Hommes.
28th July, 2016

Rock 'n Rose by Valentino

A pleasant feminine rose fragrance: The rose note is not one of those big roses… it is soft and sweet and pretty. In the opening it is sweetened with the sharp-sweet fruitiness of blackcurrent. In the heart accord, what further softens the rose note is a light floral bouquet of lily of the valley, orange blossom, and heliotrope.

Nice base, but quite standard: sandalwood, musk, orris, vanilla. I’m not sure I smell the sandalwood. The musk and vanilla are not overly sweet and the orris is just a bit powdery.

Rock ‘n Rose is not original; it has a light, appropriate sillage, lasts well, and is youthfully charming. A somewhat weak thumb's up.
28th July, 2016
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Fight for Me by Ducati

I didn’t expect much from the sample, and Fight for Me met my expectations. For the opening, the listed bergamot and apple notes were completely overwhelmed by a violet leaf, lavender, and geranium conglomeration that was non-aggressive, a bit warm, and highly synthetic: It was a bit off-putting but tolerable. The aromatic vibrations from the violet and geranium came through with a metallic sharpness that increased the iffyness of the whole opening accord; and that metallic aura is the kind that lasts until the end of the drydown. Speaking of drydown, I never did identify any wood or amber hiding under the metallic sharpness of the fragrance’s domineering metallic sharpness. This is a Platinum Égoïste wannabe that was manufactured with the cheapest possible ingredients.
28th July, 2016

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

As the other reviewers said, AdG Profumo is similar to Acqua de Gio – I wouldn’t go so far to say that it is simply stronger and longer lasting than AdG – it might be, but that’s not the primary difference between the two AdGs. AdG Profumo is more sophisticated… its aroma, I find, is more agreeable because the Profumo is less aquatically-synthetic and carries its aquatics with a deeper, broader, and – ultimately - better ambiance. The opening aquatics are joined with a more noticeable bergamot note than used before in AdG, making the opening clearer, cleaner, and a bit more natural. The heart notes are composed of a softly green geranium-herbal combined with the still-dominant aquatic note of the opening… a much more satisfying heart accord than that of the original. The base of the Profumo brings in a hit of incense and patchouli to its long lasting aquatic accord. The movement from beginning to end is smooth and refined, and the longevity is quite good. This is an very nice fragrance.
28th July, 2016

Potion Blue Cadet by Dsquared2

I only need echo Darvant's review: Useless, common, and synthetic – no more needs to be said.
28th July, 2016

Solo Loewe Platinum by Loewe

Leather and lavender with an abundant shot of pepper – I wouldn’t call it a thrilling combination… a bit too much of a screechy vibe and not enough heartier or basso vibes. I would find this accord more interesting if I would smell more of the frankincense and cedar. Solo Loewe Platinum is not a very sweet fragrance, which is something I enjoy. I can detect little variance in this accord from beginning to end. Solo Loewe Platinum is not a very unique or interesting, but it performs well: it has good projection and decent longevity.
28th July, 2016

Polo Supreme Oud by Ralph Lauren

I immediately get the spicy combination cinnamon pepper: it is deep, rich, but it is also resinous because of the smoky resins rising up from the mid-level of the fragrance. These smoky oud resins very soon take precedence over the spices, and the spices remain in the background. The well-mannered “oud” and guaiac are done surprisingly well in spite of their synthetic nature. Although the individual notes and accords are deep and rich, they remain mellow and controlled. The opening and the movement into the heart accord are genuinely enjoyable… and the oudy smokiness of the middle surrounds and augments a basic wood heart accord. It holds up well after the interesting opening even though it has lost a little depth with the demise of the spice notes. This oudy-wood heart accord is carried into the lighter oudy-vetiveric base, and with the base, the wood / oud slowly morphs into a final skin scent of soft synthetic resin. Oud hasn’t been a strong component of this fragrance and only an impression of oud remains in the nicely-lasting base. Enjoyable to the end, and nicely masculine.

This fragrance is not very complex – it doesn’t exhibit much variation in movement from opening through heart through base, but I do not at all find its lack of complexity a problem or even a fault. Its sillage is tastefully in tune with its depth and character; its whole persona is one of relaxed-but-earnest masculinity… and it lasts for hours. I do not think of this as an oud fragrance: I very much enjoy it as an excellent modern masculine offering. I’m quite impressed because I’m not used to thinking of most of the flankers of the original Polo Green as being very desirable – but Polo Supreme Oud is definitely a worthy flanker of its green ancestor.
28th July, 2016

Guess by Marciano for Men by Guess

Only herbal-spicy in the opening – definitely black pepper, lavender, and sage in a dry accord… The opening and the heart accords cooperate in their delivery with a heavily spicy accord that is quite rustic than non-synthetic. I think the accusations of synthetics is because of the aromatic potency of the rosemary and star fruit. The sharpness of violet roughs-up and screechifies the whole delivery of the two top accords. I like tham.

The base turns wood with amber and musk to sweeten it just a little. Guess by Marciano 2009 is a rich scent that is lacking in sillage and longevity. Decent price… this is one of those lovable cheapies.
28th July, 2016

Kokorico by Night by Jean Paul Gaultier

The opening bergamot is a little screechy at first but quickly settles down to a generic, but decent citrus note. The ordinariness of the cirtus is improved when it combines with the rhubarb because the rhubarb lends a pleasant green sour tang to the opening... much more depth now. Then the cocoa enriches the fruit-vegetal accord even more with its powdery cocoa contribution. It has become quite likable. The base finishes off with the vanilla-like sweetness of tonka bean. All the notes are straight-forward, reduced-synthetic or non- synthetic regular notes… competent but not special. Kokorico by Night is an uncomplicated fragrance that works. I would say that, sillage-wise, it is more discrete than many similar fragrances even though it delivers a broader range of olfactory breadth than its published pyramid notes would suggest. Longevity I’ve found is below average. Although it’s a neutral to me, I can easily understand why others would desire it.
28th July, 2016

Honey Oud by Floris

An uncomplicated oud scent – refreshingly clear and direct. The honey note takes prominence in the opening. It’s not a raw honey note – it’s been civilized by the assistance of vanilla. The accord is sweet but it is neither as sweet nor as tinkley as honey often smells. It is definitely classy – after all, they do call it “English honey”. The oud begins and remains in the background and it, too, is neither feral nor raspy. As for the rose, I don’t smell it and that doesn’t bother me at all, because I’ve smelled more than enough rose-oud fragrances in the past several years. The amber, musk and laudanum that are listed in the base are definitely present, but not very stand-outish from the oud / vanilla… the composition of the base makes the scent rather linear.

I find this a quite pleasant and distinguished fragrance. The problem I have with Honey Oud is that, on my skin, it has quite limited duration as a sillage maker – it lasts for only two or three hours; after that, its skin-scent stage lasts a couple hours more.

I find this oud fragrance very clean, enjoyable, and, surprisingly original (there have been so very many oud fragrances of late, so points for its uniqueness). What it lacks in breadth and depth, it makes up for in clarity, freshness, sweetness, directness, and even an interesting creativity. I was even planning on buying it until I saw the price… Nahh-aah!
28th July, 2016

Scuderia Ferrari Extreme by Ferrari

The opening smells more synthetic than it should – I would say because of the under use of citrus, the inclusion of a cheap cardamom, and the use of a “sea accord.” However, the opening is not totally disgusting. The middle accord doesn’t improve things. The cedar is screechy, the geranium is screechy, too, and the nutmeg is too weak to offset the screechiness of the other two notes. The base is ok… most of the sharpness is gone.

Ferrari Extreme is pretty much a typical automobile fragrance: generic and uninspired. And it doesn’t last very long… not that anyone suffers for that.
28th July, 2016

Divin'enfant by Etat Libre d'Orange

Sweetened sweet orange blossom… great for someone who loves sweet. After a while Divin’Enfant varies by gathering a tinge of tobacco. I get a less than average sillage and it stays basically sweet-tobacco-orange blossom linear for about an hour. This lack of variety is being overdone for me – I’m just not very entertained until the leather starts entering into the accord, which makes the accord more interesting, but not enchanting. It ends in a pleasant, quiet, sweet powdery suede that has very good longevity.

Etat Libre d’Orange fragrances are known for their eccentricity, but I don’t find the quirky notes and structure in this one – Divin’ Enfant just seems rather too sweet, too ordinary, and too quirkless.
28th July, 2016

Déclaration d'Un Soir by Cartier

Declaration d’Un Soir opens with a lot of potential… Cool, dignified, abstract, original... I quite like it… green and sparkly… attributed, I think, to the cardamom and pepper. Spicy, yes, aggressive or over the top, no way… not that kind of fragrance. There’s a bit of nutmeg in there, I suspect, but the underlying quality of the accord is furnished by a very nice sandalwood, which provides a solid, textured, elegant even… foundation. I don’t get a lot of rose in the fragrance: the rose note seems to be more of an aspect sandalwood texture.

Declaration d’Un Soir is a pleasant, uplifting fragrance. I like its cool attitude, its soft projection, its abstraction, its clean sandalwood, its good longevity, and especially the fact that it is not like the original Declaration.
28th July, 2016

7 de Loewe by Loewe

Fruity opening – smells like bergamot with apple highlights; there is even a semi-solid pineapple note coming through. Despite these shades of Aventus, the aromatic nature of the opening makes it seem more fresh that fruity. After a half hour or so, the bergamot wilts out and then collapses as the opening moves into the floral / patchouli heart. This patchouli shows why patchouli is classified in the wood category – this patch smells resinous-woody as it provides the dominant aspect of the heart note… the rose and jasmine are barely available to my nose. This patchouli accord is very well done.

The base is adequate but disappointing. It is mainly patchouli and what I assume is a raw type of ambergris. The pyramid cites musk and vanilla in the base but I think they come through quite minimally. Lack of “sweet” if I remember correctly, may be a characteristic of Mazzolari.

If Nero is an interesting fragrance, (and I don’t think it is), it’s the patchouli that makes it so… which, come to think of it, also reminds me that Mazzolari is noted for a few excellent patchouli offerings. All things considered concerning Nero, it has a competent progression of accord and quality materials, but the entire fragrance comes across as a bit boring.
28th July, 2016

Joop! Homme Extreme by Joop!

I couldn’t wait to try this – an extreme version of JOOP! That’s like a ultra-barbershop version of Rive Gauche pour Homme or a super leather version of Knize 10.
Well!... disappointment…

For a couple of seconds a blast of fruity musk and I thought “Wow! They did it!” But after that first four seconds things morph into a sweetish, dull texture, which reminds me of a stale fruity bubblegum… wimpy and apologetic. And there is stays. It doesn’t project anything like the original JOOP!; it doesn’t have any kind of personality whatsoever except that it’s a little bit annoying. I’m certainly not interested enough to pay attention to its longevity – who cares?

JOOP! Homme Extreme is extremely unJOOPy.
28th July, 2016

Nero by Mazzolari

Fruity opening – smells like bergamot with apple highlights; there is even a semi-solid pineapple note coming through. Despite these shades of Aventus, the aromatic nature of the opening makes it seem more fresh that fruity. After a half hour or so, the bergamot wilts out and then collapses as the opening moves into the floral / patchouli heart. This patchouli shows why patchouli is classified in the wood category – this patch smells resinous-woody as it provides the dominant aspect of the heart note… the rose and jasmine are barely available to my nose. This patchouli accord is very well done.

The base is adequate but disappointing. It is mainly patchouli and what I assume is a raw type of ambergris. The pyramid cites musk and vanilla in the base but I think they come through quite minimally. Lack of “sweet” if I remember correctly, may be a characteristic of Mazzolari.

If Nero is an interesting fragrance, (and I don’t think it is), it’s the patchouli that makes it so… which, come to think of it, also reminds me that Mazzolari is noted for a few excellent patchouli offerings. All things considered concerning Nero, it has a competent progression of accord and quality materials, but the entire fragrance comes across as a bit boring.
28th July, 2016

Montana Black Edition by Montana

Pyramid-note wise this has the typical component notes of several of the similarly priced men’s “black” eau de toilettes – possibly there’s a little bit stronger sillage here than in the others, but the identified notes are practically the same as a dozen others that I have tested. But there is something in Montana Black Edition that makes it better than its competition. For one thing, this appears to be centered on a better quality lavender note – one more aromatic than creamy, one that does not possess that synthetic tang that the cheaper lavenders tend to have. So this one is thumbs up for the opening while many of its competitors received a thumbs down from me.

To my nose, the heart is primarily green (pine) and floral (jasmine) with a soapy sage note bringing the whole accord to come off as not-very-original but well-made and enjoyable. It still shows traces of the aromatic lavender that began the fragrance.

At first I don’t get much resinousness out of the base – the incense doesn’t come through for me. The leather note is not a strong or aggressive one, and it joins with the sandalwood to create a soapy sandalwood that is an okay accord to me even though I usually dislike leather. Later, at skin-scent stage, the incense emerges and provides a rich but soft resinous character.

In its price range, there are several designer fragrances of this general character. This is probably the best of similar fragrances that I’ve reviewed.
28th July, 2016

Geranium Odorata by Diptyque

Bergamot and geranium – at first I thought I’d love it. The aromatic opening is quite bergamot-y and geranium-ish and it suggests good things to come. But then it all-to-quickly morphs into a total-geranium ambiance that is unsatisfyingly soapy and synthetic …

In fairness I have to say that the geranium note is pleasant in a certain way… that is…if you smell it far enough away from the skin, but close to the skin it smells sharp and annoying.

It doesn’t take long for the fragrance to draw down to a light and unsubstantial wood base with an iffy aromatic aura. It’s possible I was expecting too much, but I just cannot warm up to this one. I think this product is (untypically) unworthy of Diptyque.
28th July, 2016

Chrome Sport by Azzaro

I wore Chrome a fairly often when I lived in a tropic climate. I don’t find Chrome Sport to be much different from Chrome… possibly a little less metallic and a bit more refined, basically softer and smoother than the original. Whatever …I like Sport better than the original. Sport is a citrus metallic scent that concentrates on the sharper citruses of grapefruit, bitter orange, and lemon. It’s a linear citrus that adds a tiny bit of grassy green, “oxygen,” and maybe ginger (the metallic note) to a very light base of cedar. I don’t actually smell the cedar but there is an anonymously-textured wood base. It works quite nicely. It’s enjoyable and it works well as a sports fragrance. It has decent, non-offending sillage for an almost-reasonable length of time... It could stand a little more longevity, but I guess that good longevity is not extremely important in a sports fragrance. It serves well as a unisex sports fragrance, and I would certainly wear it often if I still lived in a tropic climate.
28th July, 2016