Perfume Reviews

Reviews by foetidus

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Total Reviews: 2353

24 Platinum Oud Edition by ScentStory FZE


Whoa… the oud really slaps me in the nose at first sniff. The oud I smell is very synthetic and somewhat sour. It pretty much overwhelms the fruity floral opening: there’s rose in there and citrus but the citrus seems a bit muddy /less sharp than it should, but oud dominates. The opening manages to settle down to a clearer presentation after twenty minutes.

At the heart level of its pyramid 24 Platinum Oud lists guaiac wood, jasmine, saffron, patchouli, and cashmere. I can agree that I am smelling those approximations, except for the cashmere (?) – I could have sworn there was no wool in the accord. The heart accord is okay.

The base lists amber, musk, driftwood, and oud. It is somewhat sweet and very little oud shows up in it. The driftwood appears as a soft, slightly salty wood.

Rather interesting fragrance – the use of synthetic oud does bring something a little new to a fragrance as economical as this. The oud is obnoxious at first but then it calms down to an acceptably synthetic delivery. Not a bad fragrance for an extremely low cost introduction to the oud concept.
17th February, 2016

Watermelons by Shay & Blue


Somewhat like a Demeter fragrance… This is a light summer fragrance that starts out smelling a bit like watermelon with sillage, but then it morfs into a fresh, sweet, green, fruity, honeysuckle cologne… The green tea and soft vetiver makes it feel a little aquatic. Enjoyably quirky and refreshing.
17th February, 2016

Sous le toit de Paris by Atelier Cologne


Clean citrus opening of quality notes – Neroli, bergamot and bigarade. It’s an enjoyable opening but distinguished only by the high quality of the materials and its precise but unimaginative performance. The middle level – with its violet leaf, geranium, and vetiver – exhibits a more creative character than the opening, especially when the geranium reaches its full development… it has become quite catching. Again, very good quality notes and it performs very nicely, but I personally dislike the violet leaf note. The base is tonka, musk and leather and I find it enjoyable even though I usually don’t care for leather. I agree that it has an animalic tone to it, but, even so, it does not cross the line of being a neutral, non-dramatic fragrance.

Sous le toit de Paris (Under the Roof of Paris) is a pleasant sent of very good quality. Not dramatic… having quiet sillage, decent longevity… wearable, dependably performing, not exciting.
17th February, 2016
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Deep Blue Essence by Weil


This Deep Blue Essence is half Hugo Boss Dark Blue and half oceanic. It’s cool and crisp, a bit ozonic and marine, and some woods. The first accord is citrus and coniferous and this lasts about five minutes until the ozonic and marine notes start setting in. These aquatics fit in fairly well with the citrus and cedar, but there is an off-note in the background that I ascribe to a rampant violet note, which I always dislike. Of course with so many ozonic and marine accords, the main accord gives off a lot of synthetic vibes, The dry down is entirely wood except for the remnants of marine notes that still remain. If they had left out that violet note I would have voted a neutral.

I’m wondering if Weil thinks that adding both ozonics and marine notes to a Dark Blue derivative sixteen years after Dark Blue was introduced will make Deep Blue Essence appropriate for the twenty-first century?
17th February, 2016

Nuit d'Issey by Issey Miyake


Citrus opening… not a clear one but could easily be thought of as a Miyake accord. Immediately it is alloyed with the leather, woods, and spices from the heart to create a thoroughly modern accord that is typical of many of the well-made designer fragrances of the past few years. This opening is quite nice in a usual-nice sort of way, but it doesn’t go beyond that. The heart notes hold on competently for a acceptable length of time, and then glide in nicely to the basenotes – a dry vetiver / patchouli with a just a bit of incense as well as a bit of tonka to warm it up. The dry down lasts well and grows a little more synthetic as it ages.

Nuit D'Issey is certainly not a bad fragrance. In fact it is sort of a typical d’Issey considering the opening and, to a lesser extent, the base. It has good sillage and longevity. It has that attractive synthetic aura that the original L’Eau d’Issey PH had, but it doesn’t have anything that makes it especially or uniquely loveable.
17th February, 2016

Citrus & Wood by Yardley


Citrus and Wood is well named: It lists six citrus notes (bergamot, lime, grapefruit, orange, lemon, mandarin), and six wood notes (elemi, birchwood, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, patchouli). These notes combine to form a fragrance that is somewhat akin to Terre d’Hermes, but I think the resemblance is primarily coincidence. If it were a copy it would have included a mineral note. Rather, this is simply a new presentation of the kind of fragrance that has been traditional for years and years: citrus and wood. It’s a Yardley fragrance, so I am not surprised that its longevity is less than stellar – Much like Roger & Gallet, Yardley has a long history of making all kinds of eau de colognes and scented waters; for example: English Lavender 1873.

This scent fits very nicely into Yardley’s traditional offerings. It begins with a solid, enjoyable citrus accord, and it should be nice because they’ve been making citrus colognes for close to 150 years. The woods are presented more like the woods in a cologne than in an EDT: the woods are light and they aim for balance and substance rather than for resin and extended longevity.

Citrus & Woods is an excellent scent if it is taken for what it is: a long lasting EDC that presents a deft use of citrus and a gentle presentation of woods. It is judiciously spiced with pepper, cumin, ginger, and carrot seed; it is augmented with moss and green tea; and it is mildly sweetened with amber, tonka, and vanilla. An added value to C & W is that it happens to resemble a popular and desirable designer fragrance: Terre d’Hermes.
17th February, 2016

Shooting Stars : Kobe by Xerjoff


Citrus and petitgrain opening. I understand that the petitgrain gives a needed longevity to the citrus, but it also weakens the purity of the citrus notes as far as I’m concerned… the opening citrus doesn’t have the citric purity that I expect from a fragrance of this price

It’s a long time before the heart notes start finding their way through the petitgrain, and I was very much looking forward to the promising wood heart notes – rosewood, resins, and oud. But I never get to enjoy the heart notes: the petitgrain is so lasting that it never loses its over reaching presence even as the light wood / oud accord struggle to pierce through. By the time the base shows up, I’m too bored to care (it’s rather sweet).

I agree that the petitgrain weakens the quality of the fragrance. I have to admit, though, that the citrus opening does have excellent longevity, so, for someone who does manage to enjoy the opening, it may have been a good decision to overdo the petitgrain. Even though Kobe strikes me as a quality, competent fragrance, there are many, many oud offerings that deliver better and more.
17th February, 2016

Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue by Prada


I love and own Prada Infusion d’Iris so I was expecting the Absolue version to be even better. No such luck. The iris note in Infusion d’Iris Absolue does what a strong iris note often does to me, it smells more like violet leaf than iris or orris. I strongly dislike violet notes so this one is a loser for me. But that’s alright… I still have Infusion d’Iris.

17th February, 2016

Oud Wood by Tom Ford


Lots of wood right from the start: rosewood and the oud has already moved into the opening… A tamed oud – all the animalism has been eliminated. I don’t get the pepper but the cool underlayment of cardamom provides an appropriate depth to the woods. The rosewood provides an excellent alto level wood tone while the sandalwood provides a solid bass to the cool oud and cardamom. The whole accord quite pleasing. I don’t think I would ever get tired this but I already know that I’ll never get a chance to test that theory: There is not much sillage off it, and it seems to be fading too quickly…

After a half hour of pure enjoyment, I have to wonder what happened to this pleasant, civilized accord. It could be nose fatigue, but I doubt it – it doesn’t come back even if I back off for fifteen minutes. But this doesn’t surprise me, though. Several of these pure deep, dark wood accords I’ve tested have had disappointing longevity.

This is a very nice fragrance for as long as it lasts. As a soft skin scent it lasts two or three hours after the sillage has weakened – its performance leaves much to be desired. And then there’s the thing about the futility of paying for a premium oud fragrance and getting only a short taste of a denatured version of it...
17th February, 2016

Luna Rossa Extreme by Prada


Seems light and clean… I get mostly lavender with bergamot and vanilla. It’s pleasant enough though I’m not a great fan of the lavender and vanilla combination. I very much preferred the lavender done without vanilla in the original Luna Rossa. The juniper also contributes a lot to the main accord in this Extreme version, and it does a very nice job of augmenting the primary lavender, bergamot, and vanilla accord without distracting from it by making this just another conifer fragrance, I don’t smell the laudanum.

Okay, Luna Rossa Extreme is definitely related enough to be called a Luna Rossa flanker but I wouldn’t go so far as to say it is an extreme version of the original. I myself like the first version better, and this Extreme version does nothing to address my main complaint about the first – lack of projection from my dry skin and, related to that, its short life as a sillage maker. It lasts well as a skin scent. I enjoy the spicier nature of this but I would prefer a return to the original ambroxin instead of vanilla, and, again, a stronger sillage.
17th February, 2016

New York Intense by Nicolaï


I had reviewed New York ten years ago and hadn’t had much contact with it since. At first sniff of NY Intense, I did not seem familiar nor smell like what I remembered of the original version. So I got out my decant of the original and compared them side by side, and, low and behold, I did find similarities. New York Intense exhibits about the same citrus / spice / ambry structure but the citrus, spices, and amber accords are sharper, clearer and somewhat more aromatic than in the original. I personally find the change an improvement. A second change that I find to my liking is the underplaying of oak moss and the inclusion of patchouli in the intense version. Sometimes I am annoyed by oak moss and smelling the original New York was one of those times. A third small difference from the basic New York is that I get more of a smoky or peppery ambiance in the background of the intense scent. Finally, even though Intense has about the same sillage characteristics as the first version, it exhibits much improved longevity.

I see New York intense as a definite improvement over the original, but, in truth, I still won’t be buying – it still doesn’t sing a siren’s call to me…
17th February, 2016

Premium for Men by Phat Farm


The cilantro, vodka, and peppercorn form a disagreeable opening – kind of gritty and sour with a stale synthetic character. I would say that it’s not so much the notes themselves that are disagreeable, it’s the synthetics of the whole accord that is quite annoying. I would guess that I could identify the peppercorn of the middle accord, but the other “notes” are simply overshadowed by the blatant synthetics. The rest of the fragrance continues on the same paths.

Not much to enjoy in this fragrance.
17th February, 2016

Sergio Soldano for Men (Black) by Sergio Soldano


The opening is a message from the past. It’s got that tingly aldehydic / artemisia thing down pat, and it’s an memorable experience. Of course, the bergamot / mandarin from the opening as well as the lavender / geranium from the middle provide a fresh platform for the aldehyde / artemisia in creating the mood. There’s nothing that speaks that fresh old time masculinity better… think vintage Old Spice with artemisia instead of sage.

I don’t get so much citrus in the heart notes but the florals take over while the tinglies subside a bit. The florals don’t last long before the cedar and moss begin filling in from the base. For me the moss comes through strongly in the base and I enjoy the result even though moss is usually not my thing – it must be the patchouli smoothing out the moss. Although the pyramid lists tonka, musk, and amber, I don’t get much sweet from them. To me the base is a mossy green (vetiver?) that is smoothed out by and given a lower-noted foundation by the patchouli.

I’m so glad that a generous basenote lover of classics gave this to me. What it is as far as I’m concerned is a fresher, more subtle, more up-to-date version of vintage Old Spice. Judging from Darvant’s review, I believe that I am testing a earlier version of Sergio Soldano Black – a version that falls somewhere between the animatic original and the present orangy /floral / ambry version.

17th February, 2016
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Eau Duelle Eau de Toilette by Diptyque


Not much new to add here: I’m in agreement with the positive reviews here. Eau Duelle is an interplay of opposites… and it succeeds in presenting a poised and discrete contrast between… (in this greatly simplified explanation) …between the vanilla and the frankincense. I’ve encountered vanilla / incense fragrances before, but the light touch of Eau Duelle makes most of the others like this seem quite common. There are no hard edges here, and it is rippleless in the entire run of its duality (I could clearly smell it as a balanced skin scent twelve hours after application). This is the kind of scent you wouldn’t be interested in if you are looking for drama (and if you are looking for drama you shouldn’t be looking at an “Eau” in the first place). It is definitely what you should be testing if you might want a complex, interesting, subtle, elegant, unisex essence.
17th February, 2016

Airborne by Comme des Garçons


Catching opening for me: something I haven’t smelled before – must be the lentiscus. I must say, I hope to smell it again because to my nose the unfamiliar note is exotic and… well it’s like some kind of Oz-ian or Neverland-ish odor that exists with equal parts of “natural” and “make-believe.” It’s a bit green, a bit raspy-aromatic, a little bit wood, a tiny bit incense, with an aura of, say …CK Eternity or something like that. There are somewhat strong elements of conifer (juniper, cedar) and citrus (neroli, bergamot, lemon) in the opening which wane as the fragrance moves on, but the proportions of lentiscus, citrus, conifer, incense, and synthetic remain constant through the heart level, making the top levels of the scent linear: …in this case, linearity is a good thing and I only wish it remained past the heart level.

There’s a great hour and a half of bliss with Airborne, but it does wimp out in the drydown. The dry down is an almost-skin-scent that has picked up some sweetness somewhere (musk?) and is not related as I can see, to the opening and heart. It’s always disappointing when a fragrance like this begins… spectacularly in my opinion… and then fails to carry the passion through the drydown. Well, dry downs are seldom spectacular, but they should be, at least, a logical or emotional extension of what went before. Here the dry down is too much of a weak afterthought.

Airborne is, in concept and design, similar to Serpentine and Artek Standard to name only two offerings from CDG. I love and own both and I would purchase Airborne if it had held on to more of its originality and drama longer rather than losing its momentum.
17th February, 2016

Wonderoud by Comme des Garçons


Wood intensity with lasting aromatics! To my nose, the Texas cedarwood is the dominant wood note in the opening – it’s an excellent cedar; its aromatic output is enhanced by natural oud, gualac, and pasminol (a synthetic sort-of-sandalwood). All these woods perform their roles on a solid foundation of patchouli and vetiver. It’s a real woodfest, and I find the quality of the components quite good.

There seem to be many of these deeply brooding, resinous wood scents now days. Wonderoud is worthy enough to be a contender with most of the competition; in fact, it is quite similar to its almost-twin, Wonderwood. In one way I think Wonderoud is a bit better than its sibling – it’s a little more refined because its cedar note is of better quality and coordinates much more smoothly with the other woods. Wonderoud’s oud note is better in both quality and in projection IMO. On the other hand, I think that Wonderoud lacks a bit in performance: Its sillage is a little more discrete (not necessarily a weakness) and it doesn’t last as long on my skin. All things considered, if I were to buy one of these twins, it would be Wonderoud.

17th February, 2016

Roadster Sport by Cartier


The original Cartier Roadster was a chancy fragrance – it went against the trends. Personally, I enjoyed it at first, but after several wearings, the potency of the mint note began annoying me and I regretted purchasing the bottle. Now we have another version… called a “sport” version, and the more I try it, the more I think that the name fits. Roadster Sport opens with a citrus / herbal accord – definitely on the dry side because of the particular herbs: sage and rosemary, with a lightly spicy pepper. A diminutive, smooth, characterless patchouli serves as a platform for the citruses and herbs, so there’s an subconscious depth to the heart and base notes without it being heavy. The pyramid says that there is gaiac wood in the the composition, but I can’t find it.

After my experience with it, this certainly is an improvement on the original Roadster. Instead of a domination of mint, the sage - rosemary accord is much lighter and more freshly sophisticated. Roadster Sport is dry but it doesn’t come across as arid. I particularly appreciate the lack of sweetness: I guess that’s what makes it a sport version. Roadster Sport could use a better longevity.
17th February, 2016

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li by Hermès


Nuanced… sheer. Such a light, yet appealing fragrance. Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is an exercise in minimalism, and it succeeds masterfully. It’s difficult for me to discuss the makeup of the fragrance because I lack the Zen vocabulary to describe it. The pyramid lists three notes: Jasmine, Kumquat, and Sichuan Pepper. My nose can tell that the list is… accurate. But my experience tells me that, although I clearly recognize it as such, this jasmine is like no other jasmine I’ve smelled before… it is insubstantial – and yet it is present and recognizable. The same for the kumquat… this delicate citrus in the accord is near nonexistent – but it is there nevertheless. The pepper is the note with the most substance and the most recognizability – for a time anyway; still, even the pepper is unbelievably subtle.

Since this is a “Le Jardin” and not a “Un Jardin,” I’m not sure that it is meant to be a an official member of the Jardin series – a series that I have had various thoughts of contempt about, (except for Un Jardin Sur le Toit). Unlike the rest of them, I think that Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is phenomenal. I can understand the negative reviews about it, because its subtly and discretion are pushed beyond realistic limits. But I love it… I appreciate its delicacy and nuance. I see this as a fragrance that could be very successful in the newer Asian market. Remarkable.
07th February, 2016

Sycomore Eau de Toilette by Chanel


As if you needed it, this is another review saying that Sycomore is pretty near perfect… and that it’s similar to Lalique’s Encre Noire but much more refined. I can see the refinement as a good thing, but that doesn’t mean that I don’t value the rawness of Encre Noire. Encre Noire is excellent and fulfilling just as it is… its roughness is part of its character. I own Encre Noire and I wear it often, and plan to continue with that program.

Sycomore is pretty near the perfect smoked vetiver fragrance. As perfect as it is, I don’t see my wearing it very often, and there are other Exclusifs that are calling out to me to fill some empty spaces in my fragrance wardrobe... I already have more than enough vetivers.

But there’s no way I can get away from it: Sycomore is truly, truly beautiful and certainly worth every penny.
07th February, 2016

Les Nombres d'Or : Eau Absolue by Mona di Orio


It’s been over seven years since I’ve reviewed a Mona di Orio fragrance, and today, the first sniff I took of Eau Absolue completely erased those seven years: “Oh yeah, now I remember her signature style: Clean, elegant notes, strong rich accords, traditional construction, perfect transitions between accords, nothing out of place …nothing challenging …what you smell is what you get.”

Eau Absolue opens with a near perfect citrus accord – rich, clean, precise, balanced, and so sniffable. Quite soon a perfect geranium note hovers over the citrus to round out the opening to ...perfection, I guess. After the appropriate time, the citrus / geranium gives way to a precisely smooth soft-spicy heart accord dominated by that heart-breakingly lovely geranium note.

I love an excellent geranium note so I am really enjoying the geranium’s being carried into the base, which, of course is smooth, rich, and balanced with its geranium, wood, musk, and labdanum composition. It is elegant and lush. Possibly it should cast a better sillage, and it seems to evaporate too soon off my dry skin, but it provides a fitting swansong to this fragrance.

Except for its lack of perfection in sillage and longevity, this is a technically satisfying and fulfilling fragrance – a quality that I tend to undervalue. I prefer more creativity, surprise, and even a bit of rawness in my fragrances; however, I can’t deny that Eau Absolue is a fragrance of quality and beauty.
07th February, 2016

Pétale Noir by Agent Provocateur


Petale Noir isn’t floral. It is FLORAL!!! Eight flowers and violet leaves are the only notes listed in the top two levels of the pyramid – not a herb, spice, wood, or sweetener in sight. It’s difficult for me to separate the individual floral notes out of the massive bouquet accord, and, considering the power of the florals, I don’t want to try to separate them. I’m not sure how I feel about such a militant attack from the garden world: The floral tidal wave gets easier to take as it settles down, which is about a half hour. But it also gets more characterless: Hmmmm... Maybe I enjoyed the flower power more than I realized.

The remainder Petale Noir is nice enough but…unremarkable.
07th February, 2016

Curve Chill for Men by Liz Claiborne


Curve Chill: I’m a little surprised by this. Because of the pyramid-listed aldehydes: I was expecting a blast of off-putting synthetics magnified by an abundance of aldehydes. But that didn’t happen. The synthetics were there but they were tame and rather pleasant... the aldehydes didn’t reach my nose (YEAH!). The opening gave me a kind of clean, synthetic aroma that was, although generic, basically acceptable.

In spite of all the components listed in the note pyramid, this is a very simple modern conglomerate fragrance. It is very similar to what the mall designers have been producing for twenty-five years. It provides an aroma that is pleasant if not natural or sophisticated. Its longevity as a sillage-maker is definitely substandard, but if applied with care, it can act more like a clean “just-showered” scent that can last four hours.
07th February, 2016

Bel Ami Vetiver by Hermès


Like the original Bel Ami, Bel Ami Vetiver is leather heavy. To my nose that means that I don’t smell the citrus in the opening and I don’t smell the vetiver – all I smell is leather. It’s a decent leather and I’m sure that true leather lovers will enjoy this scent. I can tell that it is a scent that is constructed beautifully and has excellent quality components. But to me it is rather boring.
07th February, 2016

Mon Numéro 10 by L'Artisan Parfumeur


Attractive opening – bergamot and booze with a pink pepper bite (well… more like a nibble)… It’s quite fresh and unique. Maybe it’s the incense (olibanum) from middle level that gives that smooth resinousness to the boozy (cognac) opening accord… whatever… it’s remarkably enjoyable, and I’m in love. Ah… This is L’Artisan at its best… delivering a fulfilling yet eccentric opening that does an excellent job of setting the groundwork for the remainder of the fragrance.

The middle level provides a much fuller and almost as enjoyable heart accord: The cognac sparkle is reduced a little, but it’s there. A sophisticated floral accord with rose, geranium, and jasmine is added... I wouldn’t call the florals prominent; they are more like a textured layer within a well-structured accord. I also get a slight background of spice and they are the spices I love: cinnamon and cardamom. Again, this is L’Artisan very near its best… offering a full, warm, attractive accord that doesn’t call attention to itself, rather it is aimed at providing a sophisticated and rich aura for the wearer.

I don’t get the amber and sweet until the base begins to form. The base lists a lot of notes but what it forms to my nose is an amber / cedar / sweet accord. I don’t get leather or musk and I labeled the third element “sweet” because the base lists musk, benzoin, vanilla, and tonka bean – and there’s no way I can separate individual notes from the accord. With all those sweetening agents listed, the result is certainly not an overload of sweet … The “sweet” level is perfect as far as I’m concerned.

Mon Numero 10 has unbelievable longevity and it retains the pleasant booze (or is it incense?) note to its distant end as a mannered skin scent: Complex, sophisticated, comfortable, lively… another sure purchase for me.
07th February, 2016

Acqua Fiorentina by Creed


It’s a pleasant fragrance. What I get out of the top accord is a very clean, clear, rich-ish version of D&G’s Light blue. It’s almost as if this is not a Creed but a Bond No. 9 version of Light Blue. Acqua Fiorentina has the same effect on me that most Bond No. 9s do: I appreciate the mechanical precision of making a smoothened version of a another perfumer’s creation, but it lacks poignancy because of its lack of originality.

This is a pleasant fragrance… the aquatic tenor in it is probably the best “aquatic” accord I’ve smelled. But since I’m not enchanted by aquatic notes, “the best aquatic” doesn’t mean very much to me. The purpose of the rest of the fragrance seems to be that of avoiding anything that interferes with the aquatic note or the cleaned-up Light Blue accord.

In business, imitation isn't flattery - it's cheating, and Creed should know better because they have been stolen from too often. To me, imitation isn’t very exciting… I prefer the vintage Light Blue, so Acqua Fiorentina becomes for me somewhat of a bore… But I do understand anyone’s enjoyment of this fragrance because it’s a very well made and enjoyable; and it is a top-of-its-class aquatic.
07th February, 2016

L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Sport by Issey Miyake


I don’t know why L’Eau d’Issey PH would need a sports version – it has been pretty much of a sports-like fragrance since its inception. But, then. Issey Miyake has produced only seventeen or eighteen flankers of L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme, so maybe they aren’t overdoing the flanker thing…

The first time I tested L’Eau d’Issey PH Sport, the opening presented to me a full, piercing citrus note. That was the note that stayed with me through almost the complete run of the fragrance. I think the piercing quality of the citrus was helped by the vetiver and cedar from the base. It was not an impressive demonstration because the citrus was somewhat of the the Lemon Pledge variety. The next several times I tested it, I would have preferred the first version… Instead of a direct citrus, all I could smell was a very synthetic grapefruity version - something reminiscent of several Calvin Kline scents of the past two decades.

This sport version does remind me a bit of the original L’Eau d’Issey PH, except that Sport seems to be missing the aquatic (or possibly aldehydic) notes that fill out the citruses of the original. More’s the loss: This one doesn’t have any of the quirky character that of my old tried and true L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme. It’s not a bad fragrance, but it’s totally redundant.
07th February, 2016

Roberto Cavalli Black by Roberto Cavalli


The tarragon and vetiver combine to make Roberto Cavalli Black too soapy for me: I often like soapy fragrances but this soap gets a little close to artificiality – it’s not clean-soapy. It would be cleaner if the bamboo note came through more strongly. The geranium, too, could have been a savior, but it also does not clean up the light miasma of the musky lavender-tarragon. What R C Black needs is more green, or perhaps even some aquatic layering. It needs some sharper points to increase its bass depth... it needs more layers of interest.

Roberto Cavalli Black is not unpleasant; it smells fine, just as so many of the moderately priced men’s fragrances do. But its lack of depth (and its lack of longevity) makes it inadequate… you can find many better even at this price point.
07th February, 2016

Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens


Bas de Soie is a pleasant iris scent – much fresher, less complex than Lutens’ Iris Silver Mist. Bas de Soie’s light iris note is coupled with the sharper hyacinth and a clean galbanum with provides a pleasant green floral accord.

It could perform better in the longevity department. It’s an adequate light scent even though it doesn’t seem to fit with the typical Lutens’ line-up of dramatic syrupiness. I guess my mind-fix has made it kind of disappointing for me, but Bas de Soie is well-made and highly wearable.
07th February, 2016

L'Arbre de la Connaissance by Jovoy


Eye-opening top notes… Such an outrageously bright, fruity, aromatic accord… My first thought was that this is some sort of parody of the opening of Chanel’s Beige – only instead of Beige’s aldehydes and bright florals this one presents gaudy, plasticy tropical fruit with a tingly camphor-and-prickly-mint sparkle. I suppose that this is a love-it or hate-it opening and, while I don’t exactly hate it, I cannot imagine that my universe would be any the less had I not experienced it.

The opening doesn’t last long because after fifteen – twenty minutes, the fragrance morphs into a neutral coconut–figgy texture which retains the primary characteristic of plasticity. This heart of the fragrance is a slickly smooth plastic coco-fig and soft sandalwood composite… and it is …not unpleasant. But it seems to be too obviously lacking in relevance – I mean, it doesn’t project more than a basic skin scent, and it is fairly short-lived.

Just what is the relationship between the aggressive, Tropicana opening and the artless tropical fruity texture of the remainder of the fragrance’s life-span? Damned if I know… Apparently, there is enough substance to L’Arbre de la Connaissance to keep me from dismissing it off hand, but I haven’t figured out what that substance is…
07th February, 2016

Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum by Chanel


Not much to say here because this is exactly what Chanel claims it is: Chanel Bleu Eau de Parfum is a stronger, richer, longer-lasting version of Bleu de Chanel. There are some differences between the two, but those distances fall well within the parameters of a genuine Chanel-Bleu-Intense-concept. If you, like me, enjoyed and purchased Bleu de Chanel, you will likely enjoy this one. It is an excellent fragrance.

Me? I’m perfectly satisfied with Bleu de Chanel. If I run out of it, or if I suddenly decide that it’s about the only fragrance I want to wear (not a chance!), I will purchase Chanel Bleu Eau de Parfum. I likely won’t be buying because I am content with what I have and do not foresee using up my bottle. Plus I would rather spend my money on a couple of Chanel Les Exclusifs.
07th February, 2016